AMF Shovelhead Lowrider Restoration -6- S&S Super E Carb Rebuild
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- čas přidán 4. 01. 2021
- In this chapter we will be doing the standard rebuild for cleaning of an S&S Super E (shorty) carburetor. This carb has seen some considerable time in standing gas due to the bike sitting up due to the engine problems, so its a good candidate for this demonstration. Adding to this ethanol gas, is a nice recipe for a mess. The demonstration shows that even a bad carb can be brought back to new in most cases with little work.
**Note 20:01 into the video, the O-ring is not placed on the idle mixture screw before installation**
This carb is simple and only requires a few tools though a basic rebuild kit should be purchased before attempting. Starting with the bowl nut removed from the bottom to remove any gas, the carb is disassembled in the order as demonstrated, taking care no to loose any small parts, each inspected for wear damage or dirt collection.
The idle needle needs to be brought to full seat so that the turns can be counted to an 1/8 of a turn and recorded so that it can be restored to the same position in the reassembly portion. Care must be taken to bull the bowl off straight and not at an angle.
In this case we see that the float was completely stuck, though, the system has been dry and may have not been so if it were in gas. Still terrible. The float needle seat is removed from the bowl and polished first. Wear is seen on the inner race, though mild, its probably approaching the end of its service life. On the next removal, it will be replaced.
Every other serviceable piece is cleaned and polished in the same manner. The enrichener valve also demonstrated minor wear at the needle as well but still passed inspection. Some of the brass pieces cleaned are press fitted into the main carb components and are done before going into the tank. This includes the accelerator pump nozzle in the bowl, and the emulsion tube for the enrichener.
A mixture of simple green, distilled water and dish detergent is brought to about 70degC in the bath before putting the parts in the bring them up to temperature. The parts go through one 20min cycle before an inspection. It was determined that a second 20min cycle was ok to conduct. They were then allowed to come back down to room temp before rinsing them in a bath and blowing them out with air.
Assembly starts along with the rebuild kit parts starting with the float bowl pieces. Quickly an inspection is made of the float bowl height between 1/8 to 3/16 from the gasket height, measured with calipers. Mine turned out to be ok so O did not need to bend the metal tab. After this, the rest of all of the pieces were bolted on, the idle jet to full seat and turned out to the original position. This will require subsequent re-adjustment on the bike.
The main gasket is lowered across all of the parts on the car, with special attention to the o-ring on the accelerator pump nozzle. Then, carefully bringing both sides together. The final portion comes in a separate bad because the pieces are very small, the spring and the two bearings. The diaphragm for the accelerator pump only fits in one direction into the small cover.
A special technique is employed to but that bottom cover on as described in the video using the pump rod to counteract the spring tension to push the diaphragm into position as the cover is closed. The bearing side should be lowered first though so they don't fall out.
Should the bowl need to be opened only the long screw need be removed from the pump cover, the pump can be left closed and not reopened to remove the bowl. The rest of the seals would be added during installation onto the bike.
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Really well done! I am glad to see that I am not the only guy who cleans carbs that way.
This is the best s&s carb rebuild video I have seen thanks
Glad you liked it.
Great instructional video. Thanks for doing this series.
Thanks. Glad you found it helpful.
Excellent video. No wasted time or fluff. I followed along and rebuilt my Series E.
Glad it helped
This was AWESOME thank you, from a novice!
Glad you enjoyed it!
That was so well filmed, edited, and thoroughly explained from beginning to end. Excellent mechanic work, explanation and video work. The trick using the pump rod to seat the gasket was brilliant! I'm a subscriber
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent. My everyday ride is a stock 1982 FXB Sturgis complete with the brass fender emblem to commemorate the buyback from AMF. Love the AMF era.
Very cool!
Excellent instruction.
Thank you!
Once again a great show .
Thank you.
Good video, thanks for the knowledge and entertainment
You’re welcome!
Nice clear explanation. Good job. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great job thanks for teaching me they correct way Topps
Glad to help
Is it possible to make a video? On Taken The Butterfly Out. And replacing It And then Showing exactly How 2. Reset the Springs? What Is the easy way to get the Springs recent?Thanks for making this videos 👍👍✌️
Thanks for your video! it helped me a lot!
Glad it helped!
I've learned a lot from you
Im still learning....always learning
that was a detailed cleaning
I try
super!!! bien expliqué dommage qu'il n'y a pas de sous-titre en Français
Je pensais qu'il y en aurait eu. Je vérifierai mes autres vidéos pour voir si c'est aussi un problème.
Hi, very helpful video and well explained. I have just done this job and have a question. I have a small blue o-ring over and I can see you do as well. See vid at 24:44. I have the other 3 small blue o-rings in position as you do. (two in diaphragm housing and one on long brass tube in float bowl. The small blue o-ring that I have over was in the packet in with the accelerator pump bellows. Any idea if it is needed and where it goes? I thought maybe under the accelerator pump bellows but that is only a guess. Cheers from UK.
Looks like the O-ring that goes on the idle mixture screw at czcams.com/video/gjQmAnsos98/video.html. Ill put a note in the comment section and address it in Chapter 30, thanks.
Very informative just curious, can dielectric grease be used as a lubricant?
There are generally specific applications for certain greases. Sometimes it’s not important. But generally the correct grease should be used as specified by the manufacturer
What metal polisher/cleaner you use? Very informative video.
Maas
@@delorean1 thanks
Great video I wish you had talked more about the jet sizes because as I look in mine I see the main, the intermediate/pilot and what is the third one? Are there different sizes for it too? I have looked at a lot of videos, visited S&S website and they do have a chart for engine size and corresponding jet size but it seemed limited. Are there not many jet sizes? Thanks
That’s because jet sized differ from one bike to another. The recommended sizes from A&M’s are only a starting point to begin tuning and not the final jet sizes. Yes mine has one less than most as it has a fixed transitional port
That’s because jet sized differ from one bike to another. The recommended sizes from A&M’s are only a starting point to begin tuning and not the final jet sizes. Yes mine has one less than most as it has a fixed transitional port
Great video, I just came across your video, my question is if you don't mind answering it. On my panhead I have the S&S E also. I noticed I'm not squirting gas down the throat. With bike not running giving it throttle, or when I get it to run. It seems like it's just dribbling if that. Pulled it all apart soaked it, blown everything out with air. But nothing same shit. I'm thinking either something with the accelerator pump, or I need to clean out all the tiny little holes with a thin piece of wire. What do you think or suggest. Thank you
Never use wire.
the pump needs to be adjusted to the bike, there is a screw for this purpose. Overturned is fine just to check spray pattern but S&S has a special procedure as to how far the screw is turned to be properly set.
@@delorean1 thank you, got it running like a fine tuned clock. Had a great ride today with my kids for Father's day. Thank you for getting back to me
@@nickpanhead7209 Glad to hear it.
I am trying to fined out the jet sizes main and slow running iv a 1981 FLT shovel head can you help
I believe 72 is the Starting point for a new turnup as the 81 was 80in. That is not the correct size, just the correct starting point.
Have you ever heard the expression, "a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing"? I think that this applies to you, most people don't tear into a running engine, then start nit picking every moving part. Just for the record, no one polishes internal parts on a carburetor. I think you have just a mild case of obsessive compulsive disorder, have fun. Did you check the stove?
No reason to be a Dick. He is just thorough. I’d rather have him work on my stuff than someone who is in a rush. Keep the videos coming Classic Wrench