For your primary clutch yes. Before removal put marks from the back of the clutch to the front. ABC for example. When putting it back together make sure they are where they where before removal to make sure your clutch is balanced correctly
The break side is really easy to change if needed but they don't go to often. The bearing for the top gear is the same thing they don't go often. The bottom one is the tuff one we're u need to pull the jack shaft.
@@kristiansingleton5743I’m sure it’s because that one takes most of the abuse out of all 4. When the track spins and gets traction that one is getting the pull from the track and the chain. Just my guess.
@@kristiansingleton5743exactly, why they hell did this guy put a sealed bearing in there? Why did he even take the top gear off. The world may never know
Seems you did a bunch of unnecessary things here if you weren't replacing every bearing. I am confused why you would put a sealed bearing in there instead of an oem bearing and hitting with a hammer is not ideal.
There is only 2 bearings the upper and lower the lower is hard to change because you have to remove everything I did in this video to change it. That bearing is the one the takes all the beating from turning the sprocket. The upper bearing I never changed one before they last for ever it's only to run over to your break disk. ( no pressure no getting hanmered etc ) If it did get bad it's and easy change. Tapping the outside of a bearing isn't going to do anything to the bearing if I was hammering on the center of it yes. That is an o.e.m yamaha bearing. Cat and yamaha use the sane chasis so alot of the same parts fit
@@Nitrorednecks you replaced a non sealed bearing with a sealed bearing. The case oil isn't going to lubricate it. You should never hit a bearing regardless of where you hit it. Pull that half off and use a press. Just my 2 cents. From what I have heard these bearings last forever and don't need to be replaced anyway
Well when they are only 60 bucks and your doing all this work why not change it ? And like I said this is what yamaha sold me for an o.e.m bearing why would I fight maybe the other style was discontinued who know who cares it's o.e.m it fits and it's going on 2 years and over 2000 km on it. If you think you can make a better video bro go ahead. This is how I did other ppl probably have diglffwrent ways alot ppl don't have a press so yah this way works. So if something works it ain't stupid
Hands down the best breakdown how to change a Cat track on you tube... Thanks great job.
This is a extremely helpful video thank you
The chaincase is magnesium, not aluminum. Found that out trying to TIG weld it.
Good shit. Make sure you loc tite your secondary clutch bolt they still like to back out even torqued. Seen it a few times.
Thank You for the video
Happy it helped u out
is there a special timing procedure when installing secondary sheaves?
For your primary clutch yes. Before removal put marks from the back of the clutch to the front. ABC for example. When putting it back together make sure they are where they where before removal to make sure your clutch is balanced correctly
Awesome video, but why only change 1 bearing ? wouldn't it be wise to do all 4 bearings ??
The break side is really easy to change if needed but they don't go to often. The bearing for the top gear is the same thing they don't go often. The bottom one is the tuff one we're u need to pull the jack shaft.
Why the sealed bearing?
@@kristiansingleton5743I’m sure it’s because that one takes most of the abuse out of all 4. When the track spins and gets traction that one is getting the pull from the track and the chain. Just my guess.
That's it 👍
@@kristiansingleton5743exactly, why they hell did this guy put a sealed bearing in there? Why did he even take the top gear off. The world may never know
Seems you did a bunch of unnecessary things here if you weren't replacing every bearing. I am confused why you would put a sealed bearing in there instead of an oem bearing and hitting with a hammer is not ideal.
There is only 2 bearings the upper and lower the lower is hard to change because you have to remove everything I did in this video to change it. That bearing is the one the takes all the beating from turning the sprocket. The upper bearing I never changed one before they last for ever it's only to run over to your break disk. ( no pressure no getting hanmered etc ) If it did get bad it's and easy change. Tapping the outside of a bearing isn't going to do anything to the bearing if I was hammering on the center of it yes. That is an o.e.m yamaha bearing. Cat and yamaha use the sane chasis so alot of the same parts fit
@@Nitrorednecks you replaced a non sealed bearing with a sealed bearing. The case oil isn't going to lubricate it. You should never hit a bearing regardless of where you hit it. Pull that half off and use a press. Just my 2 cents. From what I have heard these bearings last forever and don't need to be replaced anyway
Well when they are only 60 bucks and your doing all this work why not change it ? And like I said this is what yamaha sold me for an o.e.m bearing why would I fight maybe the other style was discontinued who know who cares it's o.e.m it fits and it's going on 2 years and over 2000 km on it. If you think you can make a better video bro go ahead. This is how I did other ppl probably have diglffwrent ways alot ppl don't have a press so yah this way works. So if something works it ain't stupid