I have the CR5. Same stupid problem about after a year of ownership. I didn't even think to bypass the switch altogether, I almost tossed them in the trash. Mackie knew how bad this switch was, evidenced by the massive amount of glue they dumped around it to hold it in. The internals of the switch are the trash, it's not cold soldering joints.
my speakers with same switch issue just tottaly crapped out...... oh well......time to dust the old soldering gun..... thank you very much for the video....and the link to the schematics!!!!!
i just rewired with the switch still attached.. will try them out later today.. actually just tried them.. work fine.. i just put some glue on the switch to prevent it from being used to switch to the left.. (you can chose what side you want the powered speaker on.. but once you jump the wire thats it.. so make your choice first..) powered side left or right.. then your good! so no need to remove the switch!
@@youssefoursana835 just make a bridge over the existing connection.. had no issues.. you dont have to remove the switch or desolder it.. just do the bridging part and your golden
@@kyfeam What kind of cables do I need to bridge the connection? Please answer, and if you are willing I'd love to maybe video chat to help me out if possible. I don't know much about soldering wires. I tried the Wd-40 trick but it doesn't work all the time. I'm going to unsolder the pins but I'm not sure which cables to get to bridge the connection.
Hey guys I gotta say, i just solder the "blue" connections in the schematic hoping that it worked and it did! Thanks a lot for the video! I was about to kick these monitors, they wey driving me nuts
If you are not technical and you don't want open the speakers, you could try spraying some Q20 into the switch and move it up and down. It will help the connection in the switch, did it myself and it worked. Spray wiggle, spray wiggle and spray wiggle again and test. PS whats up with that switch Makie doodle?
Am happy watching this video. Thanks very much for sharing it with us. Currently mine is working not good. Left work right goes off. Right works left goes off. What should i remove from speaker?
I tried this and unfortunately the print on the board literally came off. What an awful product. Time to call mackie and see if I can get them to replace these out of warranty.
So is there a reason to remove the switch? Can't you just solder it without removing it and leaving it on the L position if you solder the L connection?
Do not buy these. They have multiple issues that should have been spotted pre-production. To sell a knowingly defective product is very deceptive and just plain wrong. Never buying a Mackie product again.
Hey everybody I had a problem with my mackie cr3-v speakers when only one side was sending sound and not the other one. Also, powered position select, I would change it from L and it would sound good there but not in the R. When I changed it to R it would sound there but none in L. You have to change your setting on the device specifically in the device you have it plugged in to. For example: you have this hooked up to your computer, you go to sounds, select playback, find your speaker device, right click it and select properties. Go to levels, make sure the output is at 100 then select the balance button, make sure both L and R are both at 100. Select ok on this window, select apply in the previous window now, then select ok on the next previous window, and there you go! I made a video on my CZcams page! Go look at it!!!
Hey there, I have kinda like the same problem as yours. One sounds a little louder than the other. And when i switch left to right the same thing happens on another speaker. And i use an audio interface. If you have any ideas it would be amazing.
hello, i was wondering you could help me on this last step. I can't tell if those are wires or just solder drizzle from one hole to the next. I have be trying to bridge the solder but it is not work for me. so at 3:50 when you say I have wires bridging, do you mean you have small pieces of wire between the solder. Sorry I'm new to all of this, trying to save a few bucks. Thanks!
You don't need to remove the switch, none of that removing transformer stuff is needed. Just bypass using the cables the way that you prefer (blue/right, left/red). Any 18 gauge cable will do.
They all do it eventually. Mine went for over 4 years. Ain't nobody touching that switch but the one time they initially set them up though. That's what I cant understand.
Also for people looking: it's also labelled sometimes as DPDT (double pull, double throw) or 2P2T (two pull, two throw). I think I'll buy a different brand from digikey, but thanks for helping me find the model and schematic.
Does anyone have the values of Z3 and Z4 ? they are shown in the middle of the charred area right to the 2W resistors minute 1:11, they look like zener but the marking are no longer readable.
Both are 1N4148 12V zener diods. They limit the voltage to +12V and -12V each. The rest of the voltage difference is reduced through those two big resistors (one per diod). This is why that area of the circuit becomes insanely hot and burns the PCB.
After buying this monitors I hate Mackie so much and I won´t ever buy any other Mackie product. I´ll try to fix my crappy CR3 this weekend before I throw them through my window :P
@@reetoh I tried but it was impossible to open it. I unscrewed everything but is not moving , so I bought a new pair of Yamaha speakers and I will try again in the future.
I took all the screws off around the edge of the backplate but can't pull the backplate off to access the inside. I figured it would come right off. It's not even budging. What am I doing wrong?
@@kyfeam what should I be pulling? The power cable? Cuz I can't get into the small gap between the backplate and the speaker box with anything either...
@@johnk7267 there is a port in the back use a screwdriver and pry either left or right.. i mean dont go crazy and apply to much force.. you just need to break the seal.. once you do it should pop right off..
@@kyfeam Ok I've since tried the "lazy fix" someone else suggested of spraying WD-40 onto the switch on the back and so far it's working beautifully. If at some point that stops working, I'll ram a screwdriver and/or crowbar in there in the future. Cheers man!
@@johnk7267 np.. if it works for you then awesome.. i am good with electronics.. so i wanted a permanent fix.. soldering the connectors is fairly easy for me.. glad you got em workin again.. cheers!
I don't think you should have to take the switch out. I am going to try it. And you shouldn't need 4 jumper wires. Jump across 3 in a row with one wire for each 3. Correct?
@@gloom_view I noticed that the switch was wobbly and loose. When I held the sliding tab to my left ( looking at the back), it made contact (when in the middle position). I clipped a small amount off of the tip of a round wooden toothpick and wedged the tooth pick in at the side to hold in contact. Problem solved without any soldering; without even taking anything apart. I have been using it like this for a month now without any problem. As long as nothing bumps into the switch, I expect it to work fine for years to come. As long as you want BOTH speakers working all the time (switch in middle) it might be that simple for you. I had to experiment with the right amount to take off of the toothpick: too much and it won't go in far enough, too little and it won't be tight. Easy cheap fix! Good luck man!
I have the CR5. Same stupid problem about after a year of ownership. I didn't even think to bypass the switch altogether, I almost tossed them in the trash. Mackie knew how bad this switch was, evidenced by the massive amount of glue they dumped around it to hold it in. The internals of the switch are the trash, it's not cold soldering joints.
thank you this helped me, just connected the channels on mine also and they work fine ! been using the passive side now over a year
For someone who doesn’t know much about wiring. What cables do you need to eliminate the switch ?
@Kirby how do you bridge the sides. I mean I just bought a solder gun but what kinda cables do you need to solder for it
my speakers with same switch issue just tottaly crapped out...... oh well......time to dust the old soldering gun..... thank you very much for the video....and the link to the schematics!!!!!
i just rewired with the switch still attached.. will try them out later today.. actually just tried them.. work fine.. i just put some glue on the switch to prevent it from being used to switch to the left.. (you can chose what side you want the powered speaker on.. but once you jump the wire thats it.. so make your choice first..) powered side left or right.. then your good! so no need to remove the switch!
Hi! Did you first unsoldered the 6 pins on pcb or you made the bridge over the alredy soldered pins?
Thanx!
@@youssefoursana835 just make a bridge over the existing connection.. had no issues.. you dont have to remove the switch or desolder it.. just do the bridging part and your golden
@@kyfeam What kind of cables do I need to bridge the connection? Please answer, and if you are willing I'd love to maybe video chat to help me out if possible. I don't know much about soldering wires. I tried the Wd-40 trick but it doesn't work all the time. I'm going to unsolder the pins but I'm not sure which cables to get to bridge the connection.
Hey guys I gotta say, i just solder the "blue" connections in the schematic hoping that it worked and it did!
Thanks a lot for the video! I was about to kick these monitors, they wey driving me nuts
you did not take the switch off and kept it there?
@@otoburkaplan that's right. The switch stayed, they still work fine.
You mean only the blue connections not the red ones?
@@theother526 yes, only the blue ones
@@theother526 Blue if you want the powered to be on the right, red if you want the opposite.
Thanks for the vid. Very helpful information!
If you are not technical and you don't want open the speakers, you could try spraying some Q20 into the switch and move it up and down. It will help the connection in the switch, did it myself and it worked. Spray wiggle, spray wiggle and spray wiggle again and test. PS whats up with that switch Makie doodle?
does WD 40 also works ?
Yes, WD-40 worked for me.
I'm pretty technical, but I got lazy and just tried this first without taking it apart; works great! : )
Lol worked perfectly for me, so thanks for that! But is there no risk of a short circuit from the liquid?
@@johnk7267 Maybe if you spray the whole can in there.
thanks so much for making this video.
Am happy watching this video. Thanks very much for sharing it with us. Currently mine is working not good. Left work right goes off. Right works left goes off. What should i remove from speaker?
I tried this and unfortunately the print on the board literally came off. What an awful product. Time to call mackie and see if I can get them to replace these out of warranty.
So is there a reason to remove the switch? Can't you just solder it without removing it and leaving it on the L position if you solder the L connection?
yea i did like this and its working well .
I have the same problem and was not to do what you propose, but you prooved it is fine so I will do. Thx
Do not buy these. They have multiple issues that should have been spotted pre-production. To sell a knowingly defective product is very deceptive and just plain wrong. Never buying a Mackie product again.
thanks for this tutorial same happed to my mackies
How did you get the black goo off of the bolts holding the transformer in?
10/10 for that Sam Cooke choon
Hey everybody I had a problem with my mackie cr3-v speakers when only one side was sending sound and not the other one. Also, powered position select, I would change it from L and it would sound good there but not in the R. When I changed it to R it would sound there but none in L. You have to change your setting on the device specifically in the device you have it plugged in to. For example: you have this hooked up to your computer, you go to sounds, select playback, find your speaker device, right click it and select properties. Go to levels, make sure the output is at 100 then select the balance button, make sure both L and R are both at 100. Select ok on this window, select apply in the previous window now, then select ok on the next previous window, and there you go!
I made a video on my CZcams page! Go look at it!!!
Hey there, I have kinda like the same problem as yours. One sounds a little louder than the other. And when i switch left to right the same thing happens on another speaker. And i use an audio interface. If you have any ideas it would be amazing.
Looks like it's the same issue.. that crappy switch is causing similar issues and pops from the speakers... too bad they used this switch
hello, i was wondering you could help me on this last step. I can't tell if those are wires or just solder drizzle from one hole to the next. I have be trying to bridge the solder but it is not work for me. so at 3:50 when you say I have wires bridging, do you mean you have small pieces of wire between the solder. Sorry I'm new to all of this, trying to save a few bucks. Thanks!
You don't need to remove the switch, none of that removing transformer stuff is needed. Just bypass using the cables the way that you prefer (blue/right, left/red). Any 18 gauge cable will do.
They all do it eventually. Mine went for over 4 years. Ain't nobody touching that switch but the one time they initially set them up though. That's what I cant understand.
Same issue here, if somebody wants to replace the slide switch, this is the exact model SK-22H05 2P2T, Thanks & Regards
Also for people looking: it's also labelled sometimes as DPDT (double pull, double throw) or 2P2T (two pull, two throw).
I think I'll buy a different brand from digikey, but thanks for helping me find the model and schematic.
how you remove the black glue on that..?
Does anyone have the values of Z3 and Z4 ? they are shown in the middle of the charred area right to the 2W resistors minute 1:11, they look like zener but the marking are no longer readable.
Both are 1N4148 12V zener diods. They limit the voltage to +12V and -12V each. The rest of the voltage difference is reduced through those two big resistors (one per diod). This is why that area of the circuit becomes insanely hot and burns the PCB.
My power won't even come on? What causes that?
Im so frustrated with mackie same switch issue happen to mines .
Spray WD40 on the switch. Works much easier.
Maybe not... stopped working almost when I got done typing that. :(
Contact cleaner spray is usually a much better idea.
@@DiggerDog1962 Thank you for this recommendation. I will try this.
Hello Sir, When I switch to the right only the right speaker works if I turn it to the left only the left works what I should do?
After buying this monitors I hate Mackie so much and I won´t ever buy any other Mackie product. I´ll try to fix my crappy CR3 this weekend before I throw them through my window :P
Did u fixed it bro?
@@reetoh I tried but it was impossible to open it. I unscrewed everything but is not moving , so I bought a new pair of Yamaha speakers and I will try again in the future.
I took all the screws off around the edge of the backplate but can't pull the backplate off to access the inside. I figured it would come right off. It's not even budging. What am I doing wrong?
just put some love into it.. it's tight.. but it will come off..
@@kyfeam what should I be pulling? The power cable? Cuz I can't get into the small gap between the backplate and the speaker box with anything either...
@@johnk7267 there is a port in the back use a screwdriver and pry either left or right.. i mean dont go crazy and apply to much force.. you just need to break the seal.. once you do it should pop right off..
@@kyfeam Ok I've since tried the "lazy fix" someone else suggested of spraying WD-40 onto the switch on the back and so far it's working beautifully. If at some point that stops working, I'll ram a screwdriver and/or crowbar in there in the future. Cheers man!
@@johnk7267 np.. if it works for you then awesome.. i am good with electronics.. so i wanted a permanent fix.. soldering the connectors is fairly easy for me.. glad you got em workin again.. cheers!
Can I bypass without removing the switch
I don't think you should have to take the switch out. I am going to try it. And you shouldn't need 4 jumper wires. Jump across 3 in a row with one wire for each 3. Correct?
Unless maybe the switch is shorted to ground.
Going to try it anyway.
@@randallcrow1992 how did it turn out? I'm gonna attempt today, but I want both speakers to work together - is this not possible ?
@@gloom_view I noticed that the switch was wobbly and loose. When I held the sliding tab to my left ( looking at the back), it made contact (when in the middle position). I clipped a small amount off of the tip of a round wooden toothpick and wedged the tooth pick in at the side to hold in contact. Problem solved without any soldering; without even taking anything apart. I have been using it like this for a month now without any problem. As long as nothing bumps into the switch, I expect it to work fine for years to come. As long as you want BOTH speakers working all the time (switch in middle) it might be that simple for you. I had to experiment with the right amount to take off of the toothpick: too much and it won't go in far enough, too little and it won't be tight. Easy cheap fix! Good luck man!
@@randallcrow1992 Thanks for the response! Before your reply I actually did the same thing, but with a paperclip lol mucho gracias
thank you
how long does it last? I just purchased mine last May.
i got mine for my birthday yesterday and it‘s already dead now. So mine held 1 day
and idk what i should do now because i just opened my box but i couldnt get all of the tech stuff out and didnt find the wire which i have to cut.
@@deletedchannel8694 how unlucky. Mine is six months old.
@@HRLDmusic do you also produce music?
@@deletedchannel8694 yes, you can check out some of my free beats in my YTC :)
oh no, I cant imagine what the volume pot looks like :-(
Fck Mackie, it must be a design flaw. I had the exactly the sam issue. I don't even touch the switch since it came out from the box. smh