HOW TO: O-Ring 4G63 Block with Isky 100-GRM O-ring tool
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- This video documents the process of cutting and installing o-rings into a 4G63 block that's already assembled with the Isky GR100 o-ring tool.
Isky tool: www.summitraci...
Stainless steel 0.041 safety wire: www.ebay.com/i...
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The best way to get no gap is to file the beginning and end of the wire at complimentary 45 degree angles so they fit together
Thanks for sharing. This tool is great. Shared this with a bunch of guys that need to oring their blocks but dont want to take everything out and send to a machine shop.
Appreciate the detailed video! Prior to it I always thought O-ringing was exclusive to the machine shop. I'll be getting the tool and doing this to all my blocks going forward. Thanks!
It's a very viable option if your block is already together.
That's an awesome tool! I will be purchasing one myself for my race/drag dsm!👍
Ive never worried about the gap in the wire. The gasket still does the sealing, the wire just stops it moving. The gasket sealing ring moulds over either side. Never had any issues. Nice tool. Ive never used it before. Mine have always been done on a mill.
Mmmm, so that's how blocks are o-ringed. Very interesting video, thanks for the experience! 3 and 4 are definitely your best o-rings lol but the others are fine too =P
I’ve been wondering my self
The comments though lol. I’ve been doing this using copper wire and cheap apex gaskets for years now. IMHO it’s the best thing I could have done with these builds. I’m able to run back to back single digit passes in my street truck without any signs of HG issues at all. Same with my 8 second Datsun. Prior, the composites would deteriorate and the Cometic’s would allow pressure to escape on the deck side. I leave the copper .020 proud and change the rings if I ever pull the head. Fortunately, that’s rare now
This is awesome. Maybe I will talk my boi into this since he just ripped his block down. This will create a better seal for boost the current head gasket pulled out popped a 1" section in between the center two cylinders.
That is a great idea,and agreat tool;
get a small pencil magnet to pull the shavings as you cut.
use painter's tape to mask off the pistons and then pack with grease(or thick putty). Probably a auto body mixer tool to remove the remaining debris. To be on the safe side.
This is me if I was attacking this mod:
I would take the measurement of the diameter(circumference) of the new ring seat, use a compass to draw out on paper, then cut and measure the s.s wire, use MDF wood to cut out the piston size, and then make the ring cut with the tool, pre-install one ring, and then transfer the mod to be on the block.
For first timers(practice before actually doing the work) if they want to do this. Rather be safe than sorry.
Mdf is the wood used for speaker boxes and easy to work with. Measure twice, cut once
No one wants metal shavings in the their motor.
Good info and mod.
I wana do this now lol but motor is all together, and im using the MLS cometic gasket. Makes me wonder now if it'll have any negative results since internals have been upgraded 😫
wow.. this is a great tool.. surprised you didn't tape something inside the cylinder bores to prevent those chips from getting near the piston sides.. thanks for the detailed info..
Ty.. you sound like jackstand Jimmy from the cleetus channel.
Thanks for taking time to upload real help
Awesome video I plan to do this also, but I really want to use a torque plate when I do mine.
Also i have read and saw where the wire meets its best to have it as close to a head stud or bolt as possible so it dosnt separate. Your videos are great keep them coming I feel like us dsm guys are a dieing breed..
Nice Job Awesome video, thanks for sharing for sure. I believe I'm gonna use some playdo n just cover the piston n build it up around the block wall tight like you did the grease round the piston ring. But if all you have it grease then that works good, just maybe would take a lil longer cleaning, but hey it work's n thats all that matter's. Let us know how it help up..
В цилиндр нужно вкладывать большой пыж с ушком по типу крышки от кастрюли и обильно смазывать. После нарезки пазов просто вытащить пыж и тем самым удалить стружку.
Super awesome dude! Thanks for the info!
OLÁ. Este vídeo deve ter sido feito no mês de maio. Sem dúvida, é uma Maitação. ABRAÇOS Roberto Udo Krapf
I have my head O ringed but same concept. Motor has seen 45psi without pushing gasket out.
Awesome video ! Thanks for the info
Just ordered mine today!!!!
Bigger the gob the betta the job!
beau project fait maison. think i will do the same to my 6g next time i lift the head
What do you mean by more forgiven than a MLS gasket? If your head and block are perfectly flat with a good cosmetic torqued with ARP studs you'll have no problem holding 50psi or more. Anyways thanks for the tool review , seems like a good idea that actually works
Exactly as you said if your block isn't perfectly flat and freshly machined then a composite gasket will allow you to still seal well and hold plenty of power
Jason got a question, what are you torquing your ARP L19 head studs down to using that Rock Auto or Felpro head gasket before the engine block was o-ringed? and also after when you o-ringed the block?
Generally you don't want to surpass 100ft-lbs unless you install the insert washers into the head which I covered in another video. After that I went to 105ft-lbs.
Couple of things. When you ring the block you also need to machine a receiver into the head. Also, you went to all the trouble of putting grease into the bores round the pistons to prevent swarf getting down there but then used an airline to clean up which is bad practice. I noticed that you didn’t take any precautions with the stainless steel swarf when doing the final fit of the rings. It was however interesting to see the tool that you used as it looks like something the average guy could make with a lathe.
No I wasn't supposed to do a receiver groove, that's only for copper head gaskets. This is exactly as per the instructions that come with the tool.
If you look carefully, I used a razor blade to remove 99% of the grease and cuttings before I used the air.
Maybe a super magnet after the cutter to collect the shavings?
It's an option for sure but not a necessity, I ran a full season after with no issues.
When it heats up its should close that small of a gap.
Does the O rings need to be at the centre of the sealing rings on the head gasket ?
Yes
Thanks for the video! Any updates on how it's working out ?
The car went 9.85 @ 140, 42 pounds of boost without a single issue on the same felpro composite gasket, head hasn't been off since this video.
@@jdxnc04 hell yeah man ! Well done 👍
You should have done all four 0.025" cuts, then all 4 0.05" cuts to avoid any irregularities between cylinders
Meh, I followed the directions from the manufacturer and it's working perfectly
How can you mimic that with precision in the cylinder head in order to make the groove ?
If you really need a receiver groove in the head it's got to go to a machine shop.
"O" ringing the block is for copper gaskets and is useless if you don't put receiver groves in the head.
No, origing the block or head is exactly what you do with a composite or MLS gasket. A copper gasket uses both an o-ring and receiver groove.
Why didn't you get something like a "Vulcan Ring Gasket" before machining you block??
This was before they were available for our cars
awesome video Jason. Now how do you cut a receiver groove in the head or mark it for a machine shop to do?
You don't need a receiver groove unless you're running a copper gasket.
Thanks for the video ! I've got the same tool. Yet to use it. Definitely gives me a good view of how long the proccess takes.
I've also read that it is good to have the oring cut start and end at a head stud. This allows max pressure where the gap is. Does it help? No idea. Just something I recall reading somewhere. Looking forward to the results !
Btw , Eric with his 4gswapped 3000GT put me onto this. He got really good results out of it on his car before he went to an LS motor.
The Isky tool's instruction sheet doesn't mention to start near a stud but I guess it makes sense. Either way I can't see the wire getting blown out with 3/4 if it sucked into the groove.
Eric's buddy Zach is actually the one who put me onto this lol.
Ed DC
Shouldn't the cylinder head also be o ringed to match the block?
only when using a copper head gasket.
Just don't land where the steel bore lines with the cast block, it will feather out towards the casting leaving a nasty edge that will.never seal, ask me how.I know?
What is the name of this machine and apparatus, where can I find it?
In the title and description
Awesome video Jason, I run the same setup except my head is O ringed. My question is do I need to replace the stainless wire when I freshin up my motor an replace the head gasket ?
No, SS o-rings should be good to reuse as they don't crush like copper ones do.
Jason Drew's DSM alright great that’s what I thought.
Thanks for the fantastic video and for your time as well
Have a quick question for you, did you have to file the blade? Because my is not cutting at all
Thanks once again
Yes I did, I think I mentioned it in the video.
Jason Drew's DSM how did you do to improve cutting? I feel like mine is taking way too much time to cut through. Like watching your video I can tell that your blade is much sharper than mine.
Thanks man for your time.
@@onemanoperation5459 I just gave it a quick touch up on my bench grinder, that's all
@@jdxnc04 yeah man
I really appreciate your time. Once I filed the blade, it was night and day difference. To anyone doing this, please file the blade first, believe me! All you gotta do is, use a bench grinder and make a “V” shape on the blade. You’ll see the difference.
Thanks man once again.
Why can’t you file the rings at opposite 45s where they meet like you said with copper?
You could, but you don't need to. SS is a lot harder to file than copper.
Does it help tool life or cutting speed at all if you add a little grease to the surface your cutting
It doesn't seem to, my tool did several blocks now without any noticable wear to the cutter
@@jdxnc04 awesome I was worried that doing it to v8s would wear out quickly
cast iron requires no lubrication when machining, whether by hand or machine. its self lubricating. it can have the opposite effect with cast or grey iron than it would with steel or aluminum. i've broke many taps and galled up parts before i learned this.
@@DontCallMeGarage that’s good to know
What size rotas and slicks are you running? I’ve got the same car with Bremebos just curious what will fit before I order
They aren't rotas, they're Mazda rx7 FD wheels, which are 16x8. Tires are Hoosier QTP 26 x 9.5 x 16
@@jdxnc04 ah, sorry! Are you running brembos?
@@kwdoss56 no, Baer
What kind of tape are you using to protect the oil holes?
It's powder coating masking tape, it sticks really well to bare metal and doesn't leave any residue. You can find it easily online.
Thanks for showing us how this tool works. Did you measure the wire protrusion and did it work out to 10 thou like intended?
Yes, it's pretty close to 10 thou, at least by my digital calipers.
What is it suposed to do? Does it make the headgasket stronger?
Yes, it locks the head gasket in place so it can't get blown out under high boost
Jason Drew's DSM oh ok i understand now, thats a pretty awesome upgrade and thanks for the answer 👍🏼
Are you going to use a copper head gasket or the Composite ?
Composite
Jason Drew's DSM I thought you can’t use anything but copper head gasket on a ss ring
@@evoforce15 That's incorrect. SS is to be used with a gasket that is malleable, such as copper or composite. Copper wire is used with a non-malleable gasket such as MLS.
Bring your piston up to TDC when cleaning.
Would it not be better to use the unbroken round hoops?
I have seen the hoops used before but with a solid copper head gasket.
Not sure how your composite gasket is gping to gel with the stainless wire.
Also this process (using wire) is typically done on the head.
Using the hoop would require cutting both the head and the block
How is it running today?
It's done correctly and has held 42 psi of boost with no issues.
@@jdxnc04
I have had many performance cars...many were turbocharged.
Unless we are talking about Subarus won't most do 40-45lbs boost with ARP studs and properly built engines that have even stock gaskets?
The point I was making is this tool and the copper wire method looks more like a fix to a problem than an improvement in build methodology.
Honestly...sounds to me like the block has a low spot .
The research I have done on fire rings suggests that, for a seriois build ,the rings should be cut in both the head and block. Solid stainless hoops installed that and a solid copper head gasket.
At this point 90psi of boost is no problem.
I am not knockong your car or your build.
I am just suggesting that this method you are using appears to be a remedy to a potential machining issue.
That or possibly an added layer of protection beyond the use of a stock head gasket.
I am about to do a most serious build and am thoroughly researching the use of O-rings,fire rings,hoops and wire etc.
I am lookong to build a reliable 1700hp small block LS for the street and some steip use.
I will possibly uae a 4.8 crank but not for certain on that yet....have uet to f8nd a forged piece although I underetamd the cast crank jas not found its threshoold if destruction thus far. I have heard tell of 1300hp in an essentially stock short block 4.8.
4.00 bore with a 3.267 crank sounds like a lot of fun...when a pair of ceramic ball bearing turbos are thrown into the mix.
By the way I have owned a gs-t,gsx and an evo 8...all modified.
AWD is definitely the way to go if you want to run on unprepped streets (not advocating for street racing...just being real).
Good luck with your car and future builds.
@@keithcannon3682 DSM's tend to start pushing the oem head gasket, even with ARP studs around 35 psi give or take. I followed the instructions from Isky who makes the tool by the book. They state to use SS wire with a composite gasket and copper with MLS. This is also the method used by many 4G63 builders, albeit with a different tool while the engine is disassembled, but the same result, o-rings in the block. I don't think it matters if it's in the block or head, it achieves the same thing, locking the gasket in place. Now with a copper head gasket, that's a whole different game that requires a receiver groove. I did this method because when I pulled the head, I noticed one fire ring had started to move, it was not blown out but it had moved. The car is making north of 600whp on pump gas, much less forgiving than other fuels I know but it's been my goal to run a single digit pass on pump gas. I'm sure a solid hoop is better but this method works too and has been used by many 1000+ HP 4cyl builds.
@@jdxnc04 A properly built dsm should get you onto the 9's with relative ease.
Being a street car makes it much harder.
@@keithcannon3682 that's exactly what my car is. Sure I could have gutted it, thrown Q16 at it but why? I want it to run the same numbers on the track as it could 500 miles from home on the street.
man i tried this and it did not work at all.... i had my entire body weight on this thing and it just skated across the deck surface. never cut anything...
You need to resharpen the blade
@@jdxnc04 it was brand new, out of box
@@beardedgaming1337 so was mine, the tip wasn't sharp
@@jdxnc04 what did you use to sharpen yours? also - block vs head - which is better for oring?
@@beardedgaming1337 bench grinder. With this tool the only option is the block.
Hi jason,
nice video, since watching it i came across another video of the wire install, and they showed a nice idea to get the wire end butted up against each other every time. so i thought i would share with you.
they did the same as you on the wire install. square off the start end of the wire tap it into the groove and continue to tap it in until you get right round to the other end. then they cut the wire so it was only very fractionally long, then they put the finish end of the wire into the groove butted up against the start of the wire. thentap the finished end into the groove and the rest of the un seated wire. this will put pressure on the wire si the start ans finish ends are pressured hard up against each other. if you get what i mean.
this is a link to video, it is a bit long winded and you can skip to the wire install section 19mins in.
czcams.com/video/ZavR-rSrRys/video.html
using kids play dough around the edges is great to stop swarfe dropping doen
good idea!
@@jdxnc04 Id love one of they groove o matic. can i buy it off you when your done haha
I was going to say the same thing
I don't know. This whole method looks sketchy, and this isn't aimed at you but in general the whole way of doing it. Could you say for certain whether the gasket was causing your issue? It's possible to measure a block's deck perfectly flat but have it distort once you bolt a warped head on it. I'm not saying your block or head are warped, but you can never be too sure. The head surface might also measure flat but the top of it wont be. So no matter how much both block and head surfaces are machined, once you torque 'em down they will warp up and cause headgasket issues. Either way, this was interesting to watch!
I'm definitely not saying it's the only or best way to do it but it is a way, especially if your block is already assembled.
I've done all the checks to make sure my block is as good as it can be without resurfacing, it just doesn't have the surface finish to seal an MLS and 40+ psi is a lot for a $26 felpro gasket even with L19 head studs. My head was resurfaced 2 years ago, it's just the block that's lacking. I have a virgin 6 bolt block I intend to build for more power, this is a good solution to make this one hold over for now. So far it's working and holding boost well.
You sound like a little baby...wah wah wah
Trapping almost 150 at just under 3200lbs w/ driver on a $26 gasket tuned by myself with o-rings done like this. I can't complain.
There's no way I would have the balls to try this on my 4g63. Been running the 1.8mm tomei head gasket for the last 40000km or so. touch wood no issues to date. Not cheap though
@@2007Evo9 sometimes you just gotta send it
SOMEHOW DOING ALL THAT FILING RIGHT OVER THE CYLINDER SEAMS, ICKY?
There's very little that actually gets filed off and no pieces big enough to damage anything.