Pelonis Oil Filled Heater--Fixing It Properly!
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- čas přidán 2. 08. 2024
- Originally recorded April 17, 2018.
CZcamsr Michael Gegzno knew the part number for the thermal overload device that I had bypassed in the Pelonis Oil-Filled Heater. I looked it up, and China to the rescue on ebay--77 cents for 2 of them. Installation was simple, yet challenging at the same time, the bracket on the new one wasn't quite right. After inverting it, I found I was able to just squeeze it in there and the screws for the device were just barely long enough.
Now it's fixed properly, with all of its protection. I honestly don't know if I trust a China protection device that cost around 38 cents more than I trusted the heater without it. For what it's worth, the part number for this particular heater is KSD301-V. - Jak na to + styl
love watching this with my boyfriend who was fixing our space heater!! props and thank you!!
You're welcome!
Jay it's going to work awesome the oil filled heater
It always did work pretty well.
Even with shady replacement China Pride parts, job well done!
Thank you sir!
The thermal goop is actually heat sink compound. It's important that there is good conduction between the frame and the components since this device is a "temp over range cut-off switch". It's a safety device.
At the time, I had none. I know full well that the heat sink compound is, being a computer technician. Really what it does is allows for the best conduction between the overtemp device and the frame. Chances are good it will hit that temperature and cut off even without it. I could always go back and add some, but the truth is, this heater is used maybe once a year, for maybe an hour at a time, only when in full supervision, which is what I do with all of my heaters. Since electric heaters heat up almost instantly (this one excepted), it doesn't make sense NOT to shut it off if I have to leave the room for any reason--even if only for a second.
@@jaykay18 just clarifying for those who don't know! Enjoyed your vid!
@@c1usc Thanks very much.
@@jaykay18 got a love computer work👍
@@StayPositive-sd8op I have so many stories I could tell...
Can you tell me what the temperature rating of that thermostat is? Looking online and there's a choice of different max temperatures to choose from for that exact thermostat, while other sellers only offer one temperature rating... Thanks. Great video!
Thanks. The old one should say the temperature on it, under the white goop. You really want to check your existing thermostat for the temperature as design specifications change. If you can't find it, let me know and I'll look into it.
definitely subscribing!!
Thank you!
LOL... this is kind of off topic... but... I just had to ask... Why the double washer and dryer sets? Don't get me wrong, I LOVED BOTH of the videos (I watched the other one first when you used the wire nut)... But being a housewife/lawn keeper/cook/honey-do list completer/etc I noticed it in the last video and couldn't resist asking after this one... LOL! Thanks for the great videos!!
Well the story goes like this:
When I bought my house, the previous owners left behind a GE washer and a Whirlpool gas dryer. They both worked. After about a year, the washer started having problems. I tried fixing it, but the tub nut was so rusted on that it was not coming off, I even hacksawed through it and it still wouldn't budge, it was permanently rusted on. The washer had started to leak water so I was trying to fix it. Now knowing that I couldn't, and because the leak was small, I lined the bottom of the machine with sponges, and that solved the problem.
The dryer always worked fine but I never really trusted it. 3 or 4 years went by and the washer needed a repair about every year, until finally the transmission in it grenaded, completely locked up, and it was dead. Shortly before it died, I had a sneaking suspicion it didn't have long for this world, so the wife and I went out and bought a brand new Whirlpool Set, one of the last direct drive washers they ever produced, and a brand new gas dryer. The delivery came, and the guys asked if we wanted them to haul away both the old machines. I said no thanks. I got the GE working for a short time longer, and the old dryer still worked. I finally had the time to open that up and vacuum all the lint out of it and inspect all of the parts, and everything was fine.
When the GE finally died, I bought a used Whirlpool direct drive washer that was quite a bit older than the one I had just bought. So now I had 2 fully working washers and 2 fully working dryers. What you don't see in the video, to the left, is the older Whirlpool, to the right of that is a double sink. Then you see the newer Whirlpool that the heater is on, then the newer dryer, older dryer, and then a big chest freezer.
In 2009, when I bought the new set, that was the last year Whirlpool made those direct drive washers, with a few stragglers into 2010 mainly in the stackable units. Those were the last good washers they ever made. They are easily serviceable, yet rarely break down. Dryers are the same. There are no computers or circuit boards, crazy sensors, actuators, or anything else, just a good old school washer with an agitator in the middle. Simple machines that have one job to do and do it well.
So why 2 of each? Simple. It sort of happened by accident, when I still had a working set, but didn't trust them, but they still worked so I didn't want to get rid of them. But once all the machines were hooked up, now I can get 2 loads of laundry done at the same time. That means I spend half the time I used to on laundry. Plus, each machine gets half its normal usage it would get in a typical household. So they're "low mileage" machines.
Hooking up was not without issues, I had to vent 2 dryers outside, run water to both machines, provide drain provisions as well. The electrical requirements of the machines were greater than I had so I ran new electrical service. I also had to do some gas pipe work to get both gas dryers hooked up. I had to rearrange a lot in there to get everything to work the way I wanted, and at the end of the whole thing, I was left with a small set of shelves that had some junk on them that didn't really belong in there, so I cleaned them off. I took a step back, and I saw 2 washers, 2 dryers, and an empty set of shelves.
There was something missing in there. When you have your selection of machines to use, shouldn't you also have your selection of detergent to use? Hmm, those empty shelves, how cool would it be, if I had my very own "detergent aisle". I went to the store and bought one of every bottle. That was the start of my collecting detergent. This is all stuff you didn't see in the video. As with most everything else in my life, a spark of an idea spirals completely out of control, and I now have detergents you never knew existed, in many different forms, and even have detergents from other countries.
I had a talk with my machines, and informed them that they simply MUST last the rest of my life, because they don't make good washers anymore. No brand, anywhere, except for Speed Queen, and only one model. That's it, no other good machine from any brand. Fortunately, like I said before, these machines are very reliable and almost never break. When they do, I can fix it all, from the simplest of adjustments down to overhauling the transmission, because they simply MUST be fixed, replacement with a new one is simply not an option. But, with 2 machines, they are low mileage. Turns out, a friend of mine was very interested in these type washers, and we hit it off making videos about them.
So, by now, perhaps you're sorry you asked. If not, you can search my channel for "Detergent Day" to see many of the detergents I have collected, and you can search my channel for "WashDay Wash-In" for the videos a friend of mine and I have made. I also have several repair videos on these machines.
These washers are a small part of my life. A computer technician by trade, I am into a lot of different things, and that's why you see a heater repair video, washer videos, and a whole lot of other stuff. An entire smorgasbord, a little bit of everything. And a new video posted every day. Feel free to ask other questions.
I just fixed one where the 4 position switch melted. It used poke-in type wire connections - bogus! I replaced with a pair of SPST toggle switches.
They use the cheapest parts that can barely get the job done in an effort to maximize profit. No care about the safety of the user, just those 3 extra cents. Corporate America at work.
Hi, Masters. Can I use the thermostat without a thermo pasta? It will touch the radiator turning the metal plate like you did.
Thanks!
The thermal paste was put there for a reason, it should be replaced. That said, it will work without it, but not as well. Not the best idea for a safety device. All of the heaters I use, I ONLY use under supervision, and never, ever, EVER leave the room with it on. Old or new, repaired or never needing to be fixed, I simply don't trust any of them.
the cord on mine melted, and it shorted out to the chassis. I dont think the heat melted it. I think it was the current. The cord always ran hot. I didnt think it was that hot though. It was warm to the touch. Any ideas on what happened?
The cord will definitely feel warm. Most of it is based on usage, if it's been in service, cranked to high for many many hours at a time, day after day, the cord will start to break down. But the most important part is where the cord connects to the terminals at the end, or where those terminals connect to. That is the part that will get the hottest, since the connection is never as good as the solid piece of wire. Therefore, it's a point of resistance, and resistance creates heat. Eventually, the wire will fall off, and short to the chassis.
Electric heaters are extraordinarily dangerous devices. I use them like everyone else who does. The difference is, if I leave the room for ANY reason, to go to the bathroom, or just grab something from another room, the heater is turned OFF, no exceptions. It's turned off before I leave the room, and turned back on when I come back in. That way, I never leave it unattended.
there is several choice, one is temperature and what is suitable? Another one is NO or NC, do I need NC? My model PELONI, HO-157C
You need NC; check the part in yours for the part number, the particular part number should specify the temperature as well. The part number for the heater in this video is KSD301-V.
Than You
You're welcome.
Did your heater not turn on at all. My oil filled heater won't even turn on so I am wondering if the temperature sensor on mine is defective preventing the unit from turning on?
When mine failed, the "power" and "caution" lamps would both illuminate, but the heater would not heat at all. See the first part of this series for a demonstration: czcams.com/video/HGkWcCBUxYU/video.html
Hi, what thermostat did you used is it normally open or normally closed
Normally closed, the repair would tend to indicate that since I had the wires wire-nutted together.
Hi Jay,i also have a radiator heater which does not turn on,when i opened it,it has broken thermostat the same part as yours,i look up on ebay and wanted to buy one,could you pls tell me if i need KSD 301 Normally Open or normally close for this one?thanks
All you've told me is you have a radiator heater. I don't know what brand or model. The easiest way to find out is to meter the one you have. If you know that part is bad, meter it. If it reads open, you need a normally closed one. If it's closed, you need a normally open one.
@@jaykay18 I cannot meter it coz the part is totally burned,i am not an electrician but from my understanding,this part shutsdown when it reach it's peak temperature.
I need you to understand that you haven't told me anything more than "it's broken". I don't know what it is, brand or model. If you're not an electrician, perhaps you shouldn't be messing with this.
I would agree that the part shuts down when it hits its maximum temperature.
@@jaykay18 It's a Carrera brand,bought here in France but must be chinese made,i bought 4 of them and each one of them has stop functioning after a year,when i open them up,they have the same problem,broken thermostat with a model of KSD 130,250V 16ah
Chances are good they are normally closed. If you have a piece of wire of a low enough gauge, you can short across the two terminal, STAND BACK while plugging it in, if it turns on you have confirmed.
How do you connect the thermostat direct? My thermostat broke on my heater
Besides the fact that it's unsafe to do so, you would simply remove the wires from the thermostat and connect them together.
What is the part number and where did you buy this at?
Is there any particular reason you couldn't read the video description? Or just look at the damn part I held up in the VERY FIRST SECOND of this video?
I see a wireless and wired T-shirt where did you find that ?
That was a promotional t-shirt from a Linksys representative. I have 2 of them in fact.
jaykay18 you are lucky to get one and you seem to like to repair things ?
Yes, I have a number of shirts that others couldn't have gotten.
I've always repaired things, even from when I was a kid.I like to always see about repairing something that's broken rather than just throwing it out which is what most people would do. You can get a heater like this for like 35 or 40 dollars. Cheap China goods, but that would solve the problem instantly. My goal is to spend as little money as possible. It's not about how much you make, it's how you manage it. While I could have spent 35 or 40 dollars, I chose instead to get the part I needed which was less than a dollar, and invest my time in it to fix it. That's managing wisely.
Oil-filled? Gotta use the blue can!
Red cans matter.
How would I know which state this switch is? Normally close or Normally open? I dint see it on the part itself. I'm repairing the same penolis space heater.
Think about it. That's how. Let's see--if it's normally open, that means the circuit is interrupted. Then it's waiting and waiting and waiting for the heater to heat up, which it never will.
This is an over -temperature sensor. So it's closed normally, allowing the heater to operate. Once it overheats, this device cuts power to the heater so it won't burn the house down.
@@jaykay18 so which one?
@@chrissmith-oq5nq I not only explained it to you in layman's terms, I also gave you the answer directly. I'd love to say that if you chose the wrong one, you'd burn your house down, but unfortunately that won't happen because it's impossible.
If you can't even take the correct answer, directly given to you, I don't think you are qualified to make this repair. I have a t-shirt that reads "I can explain it to you, but I can't understant it for you", but I didn't wear it in this video. Another opportunioty lost.
@@jaykay18 I get the explanation of circumstances that you have typed but I wasn't really asking for that. Not trying to be condescending nor demeaning, I was just asking if it was a NC or a NO circut. Im not much for a breakdown of instances although helpfull for some but I'm not in the electrical filled.
@@chrissmith-oq5nq You originally asked HOW you would know which one you need. So I told you.
by chance do you still have the part number im needing to replace one on my oil heater
The part number for this particular heater is KSD301-V.
thank you going to get it ordered @@jaykay18
No problem, best of luck with your repair.
@@jaykay18 where can I order this part?
@@xinli8046 I got mine on ebay.
Hi. what issue were you trying to repair? was the heater not turning on? not enough heat? caution light was always coming on?
This was really a "part 2" to the series. Originally, the caution light came on and there was no heat whatsoever. I had diagnosed the heater and found that the thermal overload protector had tripped, and took it out of circuit and bypassed it completely. In this video, I got a replacement thermal overload device and installed it and wired it back in. Incidentally, the caution light never did come on due to an overheating issue, the thermal overload device failed on its own accord.
@@jaykay18 Are you saying that the brand new component you installed failed so you ended up with the same issue you had to begin with? I'm having the issue of the caution light coming on with no heat being produced.
I'm trying to decide if replacing the same component you replaced is what I should do...Sounds like the way to go?.
@@Johntheheadache No, the new component I installed fixed the problem entirely. Replace it and it should be fine.
@@jaykay18 It's interesting, I removed the screws that hold the component in place, smacked it against the frame, and now the whole thing is working like new. I fixed a drier this way the other day, sometimes by smacking these relays on the ground (you have to disconnect it first so you don't damage other components) you reset them by almost moving the internal slats that connect the entire component and make it conduct again. I'm not sure if it makes sense but its worked for me in the past.
Thank you for your help!
@@Johntheheadache Yes, I have done that. It's a bi-metallic strip inside, and sometimes they can get stuck. It's wise to just replace the component for safety, and it's dirt cheap.
does that heater have a "tip over switch?"
larry
I don't think so.
Mine does it sounds like a little ball inside. Mine died in the same way. I followed his previous video to fix.
I can't find this part at 125V for the life of me. Any advice?
If you're running it at a lower voltage, you have nothing to worry about. So if it's rated at 240 or 250 volts and you're running it at 120 or 125, it's fine.
@@jaykay18 I'm running into the same issue with the elusive 125V part. I saw your reply here and am curious how this works. I ran a quick google search "using lower voltage than rated voltage" and people are saying it can cause overheating and melting of components. Can you help me understand this?
@@dallindiehl3587 Remember that this device is a THERMAL overload sensor. It senses temperature ONLY. It doesn't matter if the thing runs on 120 volts, 240 volts, or 480 volts, the temperature is the same. If the temperature is exceeded, it opens the circuit.
As for the contacts inside, they have a rating. Usually the rating is in amps, which is the current flow. In this case, it's in volts, and it's basically saying not to *EXCEED* 250 volts, not that is has to run on 150 volts. Same with the data plate on just about any appliance. It usually has a wattage rating. In actual usage, most times the wattage it uses is far lower than what it lists. That's because the data plate is basically saying, once again, that the wattage should not EXCEED the number given.
@@jaykay18 wow thank you for explaining. That makes so much more sense!
@@dallindiehl3587 Thanks. I had this "rating" thing explained to me with some relays for a different project I was doing some 25 years ago, so I was able to explain it well.
Safety Foist!
I was perfectly OK with the heater when I removed this device, but others warned. I figured for 77 cents for 2 would be a good price to pay to shut everybody up!
Hi, JayKay, I'm wondering what your experience with oil heaters have been like. I've bought 2 and returned them both because they were tripping the overheat protection device. One was rated at 1.5KW (about £25) and the other was rated at 2KW (£50). The average heat output over the course of an hour was about 500W or less for the 1.5 model and about 700 for the 2.0 model. Is this normal for oil heaters? Do most use the overheat protection as a limiter and simply brag about having a high output for marketing and getting the heater up to temp quickly? I'm guessing the problem with them both is just not enough surface area and/or oil to hold the heat and convect/radiate before they overheat.
Can't say I've had that kind of experience. This one worked perfectly until the thermal overload sensor went bad. They are supposed to auto-reset but this one just failed. What I can tell you (at least about this one) is it will take a good 10 minutes on high to get nice and hot. The heating elements heat the oil inside, and the hot oil rises, cool oil falls down where it is reheated, so there's circulation going on inside. After a good 10 minutes, the oil is fully circulating and it's hot through and through from the top to the bottom.
The thermostat on it then regulates the temperature. You get out everything you put into it; electric heat is the most expensive, but also is 100% efficient. If you put in 1500 watts, you get 1500 watts of heat output. What that relates to in BTU depends really on the design of the heater itself. I have a fan-forced heater than doesn't seem to output as high of a temperature, even at the same wattage. That's because the blower they used runs too fast, and cools the heating element off too much, but it's still drawing the same wattage. It's not that you're NOT getting the heat out, it's just that the colder room air is cooling the heating element more. You're still getting out what you put in. The result is it won't feel as hot, and will also heat the room differently. The fan forced heat blows over a large area, so that area will warm very slowly, but will get up to temperature. This results in a more even room temperature, rather than spot heating.
Oil filled heaters are good for a room where you want more-or-less even temperature. If you want to blast one area, you'd get a radiant heater. The rest of the room will feel colder, but will be nice and toasty by the heater. The thermostats in heaters are notoriously inaccurate. Even if it's a digital model and you set it to 72°F, when it shuts off because it thinks it's 72, it's because the inside of the case has heated to enough of a point to satisfy the thermostat.
No heater should "bounce off" its thermal overload protection device, unless it's being used improperly, is faulty, or just plain wasn't designed right.
jaykay18 Judging by the size of the radiator, yours looks appropriately sized for the wattage. The ones I had were 7 fin (1.5) and 9 fin (2.0) but they were shorter and shallower than yours. My flat in the UK uses storage heating in the main room and convectors in the bedroom, both of which I'm not too keen on. I would much prefer the oil radiator style. I'll keep looking for a radiator that's actually designed well
The thermostats on fan heaters are absolutely awful. I've got 2 and if I turn the thermostat just past the click (about 1/6th of the turn) and run them, they'll both switch off within 30 seconds, they seem to reach a (just about) reasonable accuracy about halfway across the dial. I'm wondering if the current passing through the stats connectors causes the bi metal to heat up and give a false reading. I'm tempted to modify one with a digital stat and have the thermal sensor probe in the fan grill so it's always taking room temp air in. I'll make a video if I do.
I can absolutely guarantee you that the current going through the onboard stats is making them heat up and give a false reading! Take a look at some of my other heater videos, a couple others I've had apart and you'd be surprised to learn how poorly they are constructed.
77 cents from China? :-P
Yes, unless I should say 77 "chents".
Is that Chinese cents? I might need to look up Chinese currency!!! :-P
Yeah, an amalgamation of the 2 words, just "coined" by me!