Early this summer my buddy's ride a 92 Evo Ultra was losing headlight power. When we pulled over , the bike barely started but his volt gauge was showing 10V. I always carry way too many tools !! so we did a volt check with my meter same result & no fluctuation from revving motor. We checked all connections from battery positive circuit to ground back to volt reg. & found the issue at plug going into stator pins insert at the motor. I simply used needle nose pliers & crimped the female ends to assure a good contact put a little dielectric grease & pushed back onto stator pins.At this point, the bike needed a push to start but within a couple miles, the gauge had climbed to 12V & eventually climbed & maintained at 13.5V .The trip & all issues have never re-occured since, but after this particular trip, did install a new boot holder a metal clip used to keep boot in place from vibration & losing contact. He never had one & was overlooked since owning the bike a few years . Years earlier on my friend's 72 Shovel a similar problem had occurred, but we traced by shear luck !! The ignition switch brass rotatory plate in the switch housing was creating a break in the charging circuit ! As we were about to give up, I was rocking the switch between on & headlamp on position & the light brightened up. Found a dealer further west on our planned route who coincidentally had ordered one for a customer & was never picked up Go figure ! I changed out the switch right there in the parking lot !Issue solved... The trip must go on !
Excellent video. MY battery was having trouble turning the engine past the compression stroke, yet always pulled through and started. I did these tests and found while cranking the battery dropped to just over 5volts, when the engine was running I was getting 14.30 V. So with your help I was able to determine that my charging system was working and my battery was on its way out. Thanks for the help!
Appreciate the kind words! On the FXSTC, the stator resistance is very low (less than 1 ohm) and should have no continuity to ground. It is a two-wire stator. Three-wire stators need to be checked between all combinations of leads (A-B, B-C, A-C) and will also show very little resistance if all is well. High readings (mine was 120+ ohms) or a reading of "0" when testing between leads is a sign of a problem. We plan on doing more basic electrical stuff, so stay tuned Ride hard, ride safe!
Nice vid but I do have a suggestion... once you've determined you're not getting the 13.5 - 14.5 charging voltage to the battery, the next test I do is simple... with the bike off, unplug the regulator from the stator and simply check both sides of the stator for ground fault. The AC output test is nice but I do the ground fault test first as it's the most common issue with a failed stator. Ride safe everybody.
I use the Pico PC-based scope, an older 4-channel model. Like it alot! Found it very helpful in my day job as an auto tech and figured it would be interesting to use it on the bike. As you can see, it quickly pointed out a bad stator!
thank you. you helped me out. that is real cool of you to take your time and do this. if your ever in california look me up dinner on me.. thanks again
Thank! As for your upgrade, if it would be necessary then the install instructions should point that out. But I don't think so. Fuses are to protect circuits from excess current flow, and that current flow is determined by the loads (lights, horns, etc.). Now, if you increase THAT side of the circuit it's a different story. A higher output charging system will just give you more POTENTIAL supply that is only used if needed.
Thanks for the help had charging problems with my 2010 Sportster used your tips found have no charge between Stator and battery may be the regulator or Corrosion in the system due to the wonderful british weather - Thanks again
Two questions: 1. What were the basic system test results? (OCV, loaded voltage and charging voltage) 2. What is the AC output from the alternator with the regulator unplugged, measured at the open connection and with the bike running at 2000 rpm?
So this morning, Sunday of all days, I get on the bike for a nice long ride. The battery is dead. Only has enough juice for the little red blinking light. I just rode the bike two days ago. I am bummed out..... How long is the expected life of a stator, regulator and battery?
***** Batteries are dependent on a lot of factors - weather, down time, proper maintenance. As a wrench, I used to replace neglected batteries every year but as a year round rider now I can get 3 years or longer out of a good one. Stators fail from overheating - either from excessive load or from excessive heat in the primary. The insulation can melt and causes the wires to short internally, effectively reducing what they are able to put out.
I have a question and I hope somebody to help me. I have a 2007 FLHTC IU that has set and battery is going dead I replace the battery and the bike will not start. when I turn on the ignition the only lights to come on are the speedometer and the tachometer and they constantly Flash. I call the Harley dealer and they have no idea what the problem is. could somebody please help me I miss my mule.
ok i have the same problem i was riding and the bike went dead checked the bat it was dead recharged it it happened again , checked the stator per your video stator tests ok. im lost what do i do?
Hello, I just got a Sportster 1200 Custom from 2014 about 3 weeks ago. I have got it out about 3 times those week but yesterday I tried to start it and it did not. It is making a noise like "tic tic tic". I checked the battery and it is showing 12,25 when I turn ON the starter the lights and everything seems alright but ir does not start. Is that voltage so low that wont start my engine? Thanks so much
12.25 is a low battery and could be the cause of your no start. As shown in the video, you really want to know what the loaded voltage is when you hit the starter button but I"m betting it's below minimum (and the cause of the "tic tic tic".) Charge the battery with a trickle charger and test the system as described.
Thank you so much. Yesterday I got a jump start battery, I bought the motorcicle from the Harley distributor it is second handed, it is very taken care but my guess is the batter got bad while it was in the shop. I will try what you say thank you again the video has been very helpfull!
I am working on a 98 softail with a EV2 engine on it. It won't start. I removed the starter. What a pain. I tested the starter out of the bike. I used a Yamaha XJ 650 battery to test the starter. I hooked jumper cables to the starter and it spun right up. Negative to the negative on battery to the metal on the starter. Postive on the battery to the postive on solenoid. I took a small jumper cable to the relay on the starter to the solenoid and the starter spun up fast and with great torque. Put the starter back on the bike and installed the battery that was in the bike not the XJ650 battery but all I hear is a clicking noise. Like the starter is enguaging but the starter motor isn't spinning up. Why? Battery warehouse said the battery is good.
I know, I was a fighter Comm/Nav troop in a previous life. I miss the test equipment, especially the backshop gear. Which DSO are you using and how do you like it?
Good informational, video. Great bike, too, with the reliable, EVO single cam, 1,340cc, engine. Last year of the EVO. Hold on that bike, cause in my opinions, the TWINKIES, produced from 99 to the present are a FATALLY FLAWED DESIGN with PLASTIC tensioners in critical components. No plastic in the engine on this bike, solid metal, GEAR DRIVE ON THE CAM SHAFT AND THE OIL PUMP, unlike, the TWINKIES with two silent chain drives and PLASTIC tensioners, rubbing against a METAL chain. They were designed to have to be periodically inspected and to be replaced when wear on the PLASTIC tensioners, reaches 3/32' of wear and it's an expensive procedure to replace them, especially the inner tensioner inside the cam support plate, which silent chain drive operates the two cam shafts. Also, the EVO had the flywheel assembly, bolted together, with a crank pin bolt and nut, torqued down to hold the flywheel assembly in true. Not with the TWINKIES, as they use a pressed together, flywheel, with nothing holding the two sides of the flywheel assembly in true and they WILL come out of true, rather quickly and eventually crater the engine, and cause CATASTROPHIC ENGINE Failure.It's not unusual though to have to replace components on the HARLEY charging system, over and over again, especially the stator, due to it's bad location, inside the primary drive, and right up against the hottest part of the bike, the lowest part of the crankcase, where it gets all the maximum engine heat and enclosed within the rotor and enclosed within the primary drive cover itself. It cannot dissipate any heat at all. It's a major job to have to disassemble the entire primary chain drive, to even get to the rotor and stator, to change them out. Same thing with the starter, due to it's location directly behind the rear cylinder, and underneath the oil tank. It gets all the engine heat from the hottest, cylinder, the rear cylinder and so it gets heated up a lot, too.So, hold onto to your EVO, as you have the true HARLEY sound of yesterday. Enjoy it.
Man, you should have held onto the single cam, EVO, which can be re-built, over and over again, and was a great bike, although, just a little under-powered, but, if you love cruisers, who is in a big rush anyway? Some guy, who now owns it is smiling, about buying it, no doubt. he, he, LOL, Love that EVO engine sound, pure H-D of yesterday.
@@SouthernBikerTV I still my 98 fxstc and I just replaced the battery this week. Wished I had seen this vid earlier. Going to run your tests today. I'm thinking it's the stator cuz I'm not getting above 13v with the 2k rpms. I'm considering an 08 or newer heritage tiwncam since I heard they addressed the tensioner issues.
The 3-wire stator is similar to the one in your car. Test the voltage output between each pair. For example; voltage between A-B, B-C, C-A. You can also test the resistance between pairs and resistance between each lead and ground. Hope this helps!
Hi Southern Biker... Really great video.. I have 78 Shovel and when i cahrge up the battery everything looks fine and when i rev up the bike it shows an increase in voltage and thats normal but my problem is that when i ride for more than 30 miles the bike drains the whole battery.. should i change stator and look at it? or is it something else?
TheHyperJaw X Are you running the headlight on all the time? Any additional electrical accessories? Shovelheads didn't have that strong a charging system to begin with. Check the current load while riding and make sure it's positive, not negative.
my NEW battery dies too fast. i fully charge it and it starts right up. i turn it off and try to start it up again and it sounds like a drained out battery.
Check all the connections, especially the ground cable both at the battery and where it attaches to the frame. Corroded and/or loose connections cause a voltage drop that prevents full power from getting to the starter. Hope this helps!
Southern Biker TV thank you so much, ill check it out. this is right after i take a short ride and park it. i try to start it right after and my new battery drains.
You can if it uses a two-wire stator. Three wire stators can also be tested this way, but you need to check the AC output between each pair of wires (1-2, 2-3 and 1-3).
yes its a two wire stator. I checked it using this method and it worked out well! I just needed a regulator, thank you for the post and the wealth of information in it!
This bike uses a two-wire stator. The part you couldn't see was my placing the two meter leads (meter set to read AC voltage) on the two connector pins on the stator side of the connector. Had I had good voltage there, I would verify that the AC supply was reaching the regulator by plugging the connector back in and backprobing at the regulator itself. I would then check the output wire from the regulator directly at the regulator. If charging level voltage was present, I'd suspect a problem with the lead running from the regulator to the battery.
Let's start by verifying the battery/charging system. Measure the battery voltage with nothing on, then set the meter to record the "Min/Max" as shown in the video and start the bike (or engage the starter anyway). If it does start, let it run for a minute or two. You should begin with a battery voltage of at least 12.4 - 12.5 volts. Anything lower is an undercharged battery. The low reading on start up is loaded voltage and should remain above 9.6v - if not, the battery is bad. Finally, running voltage should be around 13.5 - 14.5v. If your numbers are all good, then its likely not the charging system causing the issue. OH - and be sure that the battery connections are tight. I've had issues with them loosening up more than once.
@@SouthernBikerTV All good at the battery, 12.8 to 14 while running. I narrowed it down to grounding issue, either at the stator or the regulator. Battery ground looks good with the Star washer and tight on the post. I can't get the OL on my ohms screen so I'm going to try AC or DC reading?at the stater plug while bike is running. How do I check the regulator to battery cable for continuity or ground? There's a ground wire across from regulator, Not sure what it's for.Thank You
Early this summer my buddy's ride a 92 Evo Ultra was losing headlight power. When we pulled over , the bike barely started but his volt gauge was showing 10V. I always carry way too many tools !! so we did a volt check with my meter same result & no fluctuation from revving motor. We checked all connections from battery positive circuit to ground back to volt reg. & found the issue at plug going into stator pins insert at the motor. I simply used needle nose pliers & crimped the female ends to assure a good contact put a little dielectric grease & pushed back onto stator pins.At this point, the bike needed a push to start but within a couple miles, the gauge had climbed to 12V & eventually climbed & maintained at 13.5V .The trip & all issues have never re-occured since, but after this particular trip, did install a new boot holder a metal clip used to keep boot in place from vibration & losing contact. He never had one & was overlooked since owning the bike a few years . Years earlier on my friend's 72 Shovel a similar problem had occurred, but we traced by shear luck !! The ignition switch brass rotatory plate in the switch housing was creating a break in the charging circuit ! As we were about to give up, I was rocking the switch between on & headlamp on position & the light brightened up. Found a dealer further west on our planned route who coincidentally had ordered one for a customer & was never picked up Go figure ! I changed out the switch right there in the parking lot !Issue solved... The trip must go on !
Excellent video. MY battery was having trouble turning the engine past the compression stroke, yet always pulled through and started. I did these tests and found while cranking the battery dropped to just over 5volts, when the engine was running I was getting 14.30 V. So with your help I was able to determine that my charging system was working and my battery was on its way out. Thanks for the help!
Appreciate the kind words! On the FXSTC, the stator resistance is very low (less than 1 ohm) and should have no continuity to ground. It is a two-wire stator. Three-wire stators need to be checked between all combinations of leads (A-B, B-C, A-C) and will also show very little resistance if all is well. High readings (mine was 120+ ohms) or a reading of "0" when testing between leads is a sign of a problem. We plan on doing more basic electrical stuff, so stay tuned Ride hard, ride safe!
Nice vid but I do have a suggestion... once you've determined you're not getting the 13.5 - 14.5 charging voltage to the battery, the next test I do is simple... with the bike off, unplug the regulator from the stator and simply check both sides of the stator for ground fault. The AC output test is nice but I do the ground fault test first as it's the most common issue with a failed stator.
Ride safe everybody.
Thanks for the video. Never let someone wrench on your bike if you can do it yourself...
Very cool video. Straight forward and easy to understand, even for a RUB like me.
I use the Pico PC-based scope, an older 4-channel model. Like it alot! Found it very helpful in my day job as an auto tech and figured it would be interesting to use it on the bike. As you can see, it quickly pointed out a bad stator!
thank you. you helped me out. that is real cool of you to take your time and do this. if your ever in california look me up dinner on me.. thanks again
Glad it was helpful!
Thank! As for your upgrade, if it would be necessary then the install instructions should point that out. But I don't think so. Fuses are to protect circuits from excess current flow, and that current flow is determined by the loads (lights, horns, etc.). Now, if you increase THAT side of the circuit it's a different story. A higher output charging system will just give you more POTENTIAL supply that is only used if needed.
Thanks for the help had charging problems with my 2010 Sportster used your tips found have no charge between Stator and battery may be the regulator or Corrosion in the system due to the wonderful british weather - Thanks again
Glad it was helpful to you.
Thanks SB, for your video. Now I know where to start.
Hey, go for it! You'll find that you'll see more, and find more faster with the scope.
Great video and I really like the way you respond to the questions. Subbed.
Thanks! I try to keep up...
Glad it worked out for you and you found your problem!
Thanks for the tip / help
Thanks for the thanks!
Great video sir, gave me the exact info i was after. Thank you
Two questions:
1. What were the basic system test results? (OCV, loaded voltage and charging voltage)
2. What is the AC output from the alternator with the regulator unplugged, measured at the open connection and with the bike running at 2000 rpm?
So this morning, Sunday of all days, I get on the bike for a nice long ride. The battery is dead. Only has enough juice for the little red blinking light. I just rode the bike two days ago. I am bummed out.....
How long is the expected life of a stator, regulator and battery?
***** Batteries are dependent on a lot of factors - weather, down time, proper maintenance. As a wrench, I used to replace neglected batteries every year but as a year round rider now I can get 3 years or longer out of a good one.
Stators fail from overheating - either from excessive load or from excessive heat in the primary. The insulation can melt and causes the wires to short internally, effectively reducing what they are able to put out.
I have a question and I hope somebody to help me. I have a 2007 FLHTC IU that has set and battery is going dead I replace the battery and the bike will not start. when I turn on the ignition the only lights to come on are the speedometer and the tachometer and they constantly Flash. I call the Harley dealer and they have no idea what the problem is. could somebody please help me I miss my mule.
Hi I have just moves to Richmond and need to find a locally owned shop for my Harley Davidson sportster a 10 point check and the oil changed. Thanks
Thank you for your help. Sounds like you need to come out west I got a few whiskeys for you in Utah
Thanks for the invite...maybe some day!
ok i have the same problem i was riding and the bike went dead checked the bat it was dead recharged it it happened again , checked the stator per your video stator tests ok. im lost what do i do?
Hello, I just got a Sportster 1200 Custom from 2014 about 3 weeks ago. I have got it out about 3 times those week but yesterday I tried to start it and it did not. It is making a noise like "tic tic tic". I checked the battery and it is showing 12,25 when I turn ON the starter the lights and everything seems alright but ir does not start. Is that voltage so low that wont start my engine? Thanks so much
12.25 is a low battery and could be the cause of your no start. As shown in the video, you really want to know what the loaded voltage is when you hit the starter button but I"m betting it's below minimum (and the cause of the "tic tic tic".) Charge the battery with a trickle charger and test the system as described.
Thank you so much. Yesterday I got a jump start battery, I bought the motorcicle from the Harley distributor it is second handed, it is very taken care but my guess is the batter got bad while it was in the shop.
I will try what you say thank you again the video has been very helpfull!
good video. I am currently changing my system over from 32 amps to 40 amps. Do I need to change any breakers or fuses on this upgrade? Thanks again!
I am working on a 98 softail with a EV2 engine on it. It won't start. I removed the starter. What a pain. I tested the starter out of the bike. I used a Yamaha XJ 650 battery to test the starter. I hooked jumper cables to the starter and it spun right up. Negative to the negative on battery to the metal on the starter. Postive on the battery to the postive on solenoid. I took a small jumper cable to the relay on the starter to the solenoid and the starter spun up fast and with great torque. Put the starter back on the bike and installed the battery that was in the bike not the XJ650 battery but all I hear is a clicking noise. Like the starter is enguaging but the starter motor isn't spinning up. Why? Battery warehouse said the battery is good.
I know, I was a fighter Comm/Nav troop in a previous life. I miss the test equipment, especially the backshop gear.
Which DSO are you using and how do you like it?
Good informational, video. Great bike, too, with the reliable, EVO single cam, 1,340cc, engine. Last year of the EVO. Hold on that bike, cause in my opinions, the TWINKIES, produced from 99 to the present are a FATALLY FLAWED DESIGN with PLASTIC tensioners in critical components. No plastic in the engine on this bike, solid metal, GEAR DRIVE ON THE CAM SHAFT AND THE OIL PUMP, unlike, the TWINKIES with two silent chain drives and PLASTIC tensioners, rubbing against a METAL chain. They were designed to have to be periodically inspected and to be replaced when wear on the PLASTIC tensioners, reaches 3/32' of wear and it's an expensive procedure to replace them, especially the inner tensioner inside the cam support plate, which silent chain drive operates the two cam shafts. Also, the EVO had the flywheel assembly, bolted together, with a crank pin bolt and nut, torqued down to hold the flywheel assembly in true. Not with the TWINKIES, as they use a pressed together, flywheel, with nothing holding the two sides of the flywheel assembly in true and they WILL come out of true, rather quickly and eventually crater the engine, and cause CATASTROPHIC ENGINE Failure.It's not unusual though to have to replace components on the HARLEY charging system, over and over again, especially the stator, due to it's bad location, inside the primary drive, and right up against the hottest part of the bike, the lowest part of the crankcase, where it gets all the maximum engine heat and enclosed within the rotor and enclosed within the primary drive cover itself. It cannot dissipate any heat at all. It's a major job to have to disassemble the entire primary chain drive, to even get to the rotor and stator, to change them out. Same thing with the starter, due to it's location directly behind the rear cylinder, and underneath the oil tank. It gets all the engine heat from the hottest, cylinder, the rear cylinder and so it gets heated up a lot, too.So, hold onto to your EVO, as you have the true HARLEY sound of yesterday. Enjoy it.
+tomcata1467 Unfortunately, the EVO has passed hands and an '09 FLH sits in its place! I do miss the FXSTC though...
Man, you should have held onto the single cam, EVO, which can be re-built, over and over again, and was a great bike, although, just a little under-powered, but, if you love cruisers, who is in a big rush anyway? Some guy, who now owns it is smiling, about buying it, no doubt. he, he, LOL, Love that EVO engine sound, pure H-D of yesterday.
Then why aren't there blown-apart Harleys all over the place? Lots of 88s out there running strong, including mine.
@@SouthernBikerTV I still my 98 fxstc and I just replaced the battery this week. Wished I had seen this vid earlier. Going to run your tests today. I'm thinking it's the stator cuz I'm not getting above 13v with the 2k rpms. I'm considering an 08 or newer heritage tiwncam since I heard they addressed the tensioner issues.
You might want to see thisczcams.com/video/Bw-uUIfMsrU/video.html
I have a haritage 2002 softail it has 3 wires on plug to stater ow do I check that one
The 3-wire stator is similar to the one in your car. Test the voltage output between each pair. For example; voltage between A-B, B-C, C-A. You can also test the resistance between pairs and resistance between each lead and ground. Hope this helps!
Good stuff!
Thank you
Hi Southern Biker... Really great video.. I have 78 Shovel and when i cahrge up the battery everything looks fine and when i rev up the bike it shows an increase in voltage and thats normal but my problem is that when i ride for more than 30 miles the bike drains the whole battery.. should i change stator and look at it? or is it something else?
TheHyperJaw X Are you running the headlight on all the time? Any additional electrical accessories? Shovelheads didn't have that strong a charging system to begin with. Check the current load while riding and make sure it's positive, not negative.
Thanks for the reply.. No headlights are not always on
I liked the DSO readout! Now I have a reas..er, excuse to get one.
my NEW battery dies too fast. i fully charge it and it starts right up. i turn it off and try to start it up again and it sounds like a drained out battery.
Check all the connections, especially the ground cable both at the battery and where it attaches to the frame. Corroded and/or loose connections cause a voltage drop that prevents full power from getting to the starter.
Hope this helps!
Southern Biker TV thank you so much, ill check it out. this is right after i take a short ride and park it. i try to start it right after and my new battery drains.
sinaloakid1 Follow the steps in the video and check your charging system voltage. Sounds like you're running on the battery only, killing it quickly.
can I use this same method to check the system on my 81 shovelhead?
You can if it uses a two-wire stator. Three wire stators can also be tested this way, but you need to check the AC output between each pair of wires (1-2, 2-3 and 1-3).
yes its a two wire stator. I checked it using this method and it worked out well! I just needed a regulator, thank you for the post and the wealth of information in it!
SnailHouseProjects Glad it worked out for you. Spread the word...we're the shiznit!
Could not see how you checked the regulator because your arm was in the way
This bike uses a two-wire stator. The part you couldn't see was my placing the two meter leads (meter set to read AC voltage) on the two connector pins on the stator side of the connector. Had I had good voltage there, I would verify that the AC supply was reaching the regulator by plugging the connector back in and backprobing at the regulator itself. I would then check the output wire from the regulator directly at the regulator. If charging level voltage was present, I'd suspect a problem with the lead running from the regulator to the battery.
I replaced the stator and the regulator and the bike still dies
Let's start by verifying the battery/charging system. Measure the battery voltage with nothing on, then set the meter to record the "Min/Max" as shown in the video and start the bike (or engage the starter anyway). If it does start, let it run for a minute or two. You should begin with a battery voltage of at least 12.4 - 12.5 volts. Anything lower is an undercharged battery. The low reading on start up is loaded voltage and should remain above 9.6v - if not, the battery is bad. Finally, running voltage should be around 13.5 - 14.5v. If your numbers are all good, then its likely not the charging system causing the issue.
OH - and be sure that the battery connections are tight. I've had issues with them loosening up more than once.
@@SouthernBikerTV All good at the battery, 12.8 to 14 while running. I narrowed it down to grounding issue, either at the stator or the regulator. Battery ground looks good with the Star washer and tight on the post. I can't get the OL on my ohms screen so I'm going to try AC or DC reading?at the stater plug while bike is running. How do I check the regulator to battery cable for continuity or ground? There's a ground wire across from regulator, Not sure what it's for.Thank You
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