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How to Test Motorcycle Battery & Charging System-Multimeter or Voltmeter | DIY
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- čas přidán 12. 05. 2017
- Video-Is your Harley-Davidson or other brand motorcycle seem to be cranking over slowly when starting? Does your battery seem to be going bad? Not sure whether you should replace your motorcycle battery?
We show you how to easily test your motorcycle battery & charging system using a simple inexpensive digital multimeter right in your very own shop or garage. No need to go running to a dealership to spend money. Be in the know on whether you actually need a new motorcycle battery or not. Or you may find it's not the battery at all and a charging system problem instead.
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Your battery may even be holding a charge, but it's the cold cranking amps that may determine if your battery needs replacement.
In this video, we show you how to choose the correct settings on your multimeter & complete all the necessary tests.
Set the multimeter/voltmeter to DC volts (20v range). The particular multimeter listed on this page (left) has an actual 12v setting, making it very easy. Many volt meters might only have a 20v setting, which is the one you should choose and will work the same.
Note: These multimeter settings will be used for all the below motorcycle battery and charging system tests.
MUST LISTEN TO PODCAST EPISODE #134:
LAB-134-Harley-Davidson Alternators, Stators, Regulators, Rectifiers-Charging System | Complete Guide
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Static Battery Voltage Test:
Make certain you have not recently charged your motorcycle battery. Let it sit for at least an hour after disconnecting it from a charger. Turn on your ignition so your headlights are on and other accessories for about two minutes and then turn the ignition off. This is to get rid of any surface charge.
Place the voltmeter leads to the battery terminals. (positive to positive and negative to negative). A good battery should read between 12.4 to 12.6 volts, 12.6v being optimal. If it reads below those values then your battery is not keeping a full charge.
Starting Battery Load Test: (cold cranking test)
Next, you'll need to determine the cold cranking power that your battery is capable of.
Place the voltmeter leads to the battery terminals. (positive to positive and negative to negative).
Now, start your motor. Good readings will be above 10v, 9.6v being the absolute lowest you'd want to see. If it drops below the 9.6v, the battery has a very low capacity and should be replaced.
Charging System Test:
Next, you'll want to determine if your charging system is working and properly feeding your battery when the motorcycle is running.
Place the voltmeter leads to the battery terminals. (positive to positive and negative to negative).
Start your motor and bring the RPM's up to approximately 3,000. You'll want to see a reading of 13.8 to 14.5 volts to know that your stator and regulator/rectifier are operating properly and charging your battery. If not, then you likely have a motorcycle charging system problem.
Best Practice & Battery Maintenance:
Consider keeping your motorcycle battery on a simple inexpensive battery tender that just plugs into a wall outlet. The tenders come with a pig tail that you can hook permanently to your battery. It just has a positive and negative lead to hook to the battery. Most new Harley's all come with the pigtail already installed. Just plug it in and it maintains your battery.
It's an inexpensive way to assure you get the most life out of your motorcycle battery. Even during the summer warm months you can use it, such as a time you may not be riding for a week or so. The worst thing you can do is just let your motorcycle battery sit without being on a tender for longer periods of time. Who wants to prematurely buy a new expensive motorcycle battery?
Music:
Artist: Shinzo
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Simple and to the point, great job. Maybe for those not familiar with a meter you'll want the "V" with a straight line for DC volts opposed to the "V" with the wavy line indicating AC volts.
Thanks for the tip. Just bought a multimeter for my bike and all this is all foreign to me lol.
@@IndyMotoRider being an electrician, it’s one of my daily tools but you are going to use dcv when looking for voltage. Black lead goes on negative or black, red lead does positive, if you swap them it’ll just show reverse polarity when checking voltage and say -12vdc. Also when looking for ground faults or shorts, you want the diode scale, it’s an arrow pointing towards a line and when you touch the leads together it should beep and or go from OL ( open line ) to 000 which indicates 0 ohms or a dead short. So if a wire is touching ground, you’d put your negative lead on ground or a negative terminal and the other on the wire you think is grounded. You should get a beep or a read out of a short. When reading through bulbs 💡 you will get a short, but that’s normal. Do a little research, you’ll figure it out. Best of luck
Thanks
Very nice video & well explained. I test my battery directly from the pigtail of the battery tender. No need to remove a seat and move wiring harnesses around for a simple test.
Mind blown 🤯 haha… all this time I’ve been removing the seat to put the meter on the battery while pig tails are staring right at me. 😳 thanks!!
Dude, you do the best explanations. You stay focused on what is important and the bike riders care about. So many other videos are just filling time with mindless chatter. I suspect my Regulator is toast
Thank you for posting this informative and easy to follow video. I just bought my 2010 heritage last week. I noticed a hesitation/pause when trying to start the bike. I followed your directions and ran the test twice. First time, the voltage dropped to 8.xx volts when cranking. I waited 5 minutes to perform the 2nd test, and the voltage read 7.xx volts. Based on those numbers, the battery has definitely seen better days. The charging system appears to be good, the voltage while ruining was 14.05v to 14.09 volts. Buying a new battery tomorrow. Thank you again for the help.
last fall, i made a trip to the mountains. About a week before the trip my bike was sounding like your StreetGlide. I figured it would be ok so off we went. The trip was about 2.5 hours and when I stopped to get gas, the bike did not crank. I pushed it off, got it running and onto the motel we went. Later we went for dinner, it cranked fine but after dinner, I had to get a boost to get back to the motel. The next morning I got another boost and straight to the store we went for that NEW battery. Live and learn. When your bike starts to crank slow, do yourself a favor and head straight to the store.
Fantastic demonstration
Without this video I would of ended up buying a new stator for my bike.
Popped a new battery in my bike after endless charging it. And what are the chances that a new battery would show it had a dead cell
Well after watching this video it cleared some answers
Thank you and keep up the good work 👍
Glad to hear we could help!
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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I have 2013 dyna wide glide factory battery, lately it been slow starting, so battery is 4 years old, after watching your video how test battery, I went out check my battery on load I got 9.6, I went to HD got new battery & put it in & check load, OMG what different check out 10.9 to 11, big different start so much better......Thanks Ryan for the information how to check battery on video.
That's awesome Mark. Glad we could help!
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Electrical has always been my biggest weakness. Your video is priceless. Saved me the price of a battery. Faulty trickle charger. Thank you. Be safe
Glad it helped
Thanks Ryan putting out this video. - Been having some issues with my bike (UK Triumph Tiger 955i) starting. With the help of your video I was able to check out my battery and charging system. You certainly have a good way of explaining things. Much respect to you from the UK, David.
Thanks 👍 👍 that's exactly what was wrong with my bike, never used a multimeter before but after watching the video how could I go wrong.
Ryan, that was excellent. Funny thing is I just had the same problems with my bike. Battery checked good, charged all the way and started very well but there was just something wrong with that battery and I replaced it so I don't get stranded somewhere.
Great video explains all aspects of the battery charge, crank amps & charge while started. most people get ripped off when they are told battery is charged must be the charging system, this shows you to check the start amps as well.
Thank you! We do our best to cover everything when making our vids.
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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Thank you Mr. Ryan for your demonstration. I'm a new HD owner with limited knowledge of what my slow starter issue was until I watched your video. Now I'm going to buy a Multimeter and get to work. Your video really gave me a better understanding of what I'm dealing with. Thanks
What a fantastic video. Its winter and my battery is having trouble starting in the mornings. I recently changed the stator and rectifier so im not sure if thats the problem but now i know what to look for and understand how to perform the tests. Thank you so much!
Awesome!! Love hearing the videos are helping bikers!
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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Great video! It is definitely useful for those who only have an affordable multimeter.
I own a 2017 Indian Chieftain Limited. I live in NE Utah where the temperatures are very cold in the late fall, winter, and early spring. My bike starts with very little issue at 32 deg. F.
I have both a decent grade multimeter and an OTC Tools digital battery tester. Oftentimes, I'm only using the multimeter because it's more compact and quicker to use than my battery tester.
On a side note;
Before deciding to replace the battery, check and verify that all battery connections are tight. I've witnessed many times that the culprit has been simply a loose connection. I've also seen on occasion a bad crimp on the battery cable termibal.
As always, I enjoy your videos.
Thanks for the video. I just checked my battery and while cranking over it was as low as 7. something and it wouldn’t even start earlier so definitely time for a new battery.
I got 7 yrs on a battery for a 91 Sporty 1200 using a bat tender, even for 1/2 a day you'd get 9
more amps, which means a hotter spark and much quicker cranking.
Most useful video on checking battery voltage for my slow cranking Road King.
Glad it helped
Great video. Well explained. Love your info from a fellow LEO 25 years. Thanks
Rock on. Fellow LEO!
Thank you so much for this video. It's been hard for me to find something like this. I bought my first motorcycle in April. Harley 2016 roadster used and I had to replace both tires as the dealer looks to have had a 2012 tire on the front and I'm not sure of the year on the back. I replaced them already so I can't go look again. I had a colder weekend recently and my bike didn't start up that morning. 48F degrees was the temp and it would click and not turn over. I hadn't really noticed it but I did hear the slow turn over on my bike the past couple months but didn't really understand that it was something to make note of. When I heard you start yours I immediately identified that on my bike. I'm not sure of the battery year in my bike but I'm betting it's time to replace that as well. I've not had other trouble with the bike, but I had noticed that it seemed to have some trouble starting a few times but it would turn over. Turning my bike on I'm around 11.4v and when I try to crank it, this battery didn't turn it over to run and I think I saw a 5.6v or so on the meter. I'm pretty sure this battery is well on it's way out. I never bought a tender for the battery as I didn't realize it was very common to need for harley bikes. I'm buying the 5amp dual-mode battery charger from harley to help with this for the new battery which is on back order. I'm hoping the battery charger will limp me along to ride it every few days in the neighborhood to keep it going till my new battery, HD OEM AGM gets here. Again, thank you so much for this video as a new rider. I very much appreciate it. I have subscribed.
I also noticed recently my right front turn signal sometimes comes on and other times it doesn't. I thought it was just a loose connecting harness but I'm starting to wonder if it actually just a symptom of a battery on the way out.
Excellent information. I never thought of measuring the voltage while starting...It's 04.00 a.m. and I have learned something usefull. I feel confident that I can do this!
Right on! Glad to help.
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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Great presentation! Got straight to my problem and solution!
Another thing. Check the Ground lead for Corrosion. Even where it connects to the frame. I fixed a few cars that had trouble starting because of a Bad Ground. When I upgraded my 15 Street 750 to a Hard Drive Lithium, I also upgraded the cables. To Sumax 4 gauge. The copper ground stud on my frame had some oxidation on it.
Great info Chris. Thanks for sharing!
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I had the negative lead get loose a while back. Bike started to surge and the instruments went nuts. Took off the seat and turns out that the negative lead was almost completely disconnected.
Another reason to remember that when they say to check all fastenters regularly, they mean ALL fasteners, not just the ones that hold the bike together, things like the battery terminals and speedo cable as well.
Good video with useful numbers. I think you should have mentioned that the meter needs to be switched to DC mode when checking out bikes and AC for house wiring. Some guys may not be conversant with test meters.
thanks you for the help man i found out it was the battery and thank god it wasn't the stater or rec/reg
Good video, however, I have a suggestion for another video that may relate, if you haven't already done a video on it, if so, disregard, lol. Anyways, it may be helpful to show how to check for amp draw with a meter, which would be helpful when looking for something that may be draining a battery, as an open circuit, or an accessory that may have been added incorrectly. I've used this technique on cars over the years, and once on my Triumph. Just a thought!
Thank you! I appreciate the input. I'll see what i can put together.
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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Has said video been made ?
Another great video, excellent information! I keep my bike on the tender at all times that I'm not riding and it's only on the second battery in 13 years. Good luck at the NAMOA this week!
Thanks Al. Hope all is well with you bro.
2 batteries in 13 years?... wow what type batteries do you use?
Great video! First time coming across this and well put together, clear and appreciate the comparison of a working vs non working battery cranking. Thanks!
Thank you Alex. Glad you appreciated our video.
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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Awesome video man! I was looking for a basic test for a 12 volt system, although for a polaris 4whlr, this was the best one I found. Needed some numbers to work with as well.Regulator/rectifier was the culprit. I also use a battery tender, always have and swear by it. Minimum of 5 yrs from every battery!!!
That's awesome George! Glad we could help.
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Thanks for the information. I’m having starting issues and hope this helps me identify the cause. Cheers
This is the best battery test video Ive seen .Helped me a lot. Thank you.
Yo I got that same chain wrist except mines not a tattoo it's a shortened bike chain with a latch.
Yours looks more comfortable.
Thanks for the vid, ride safe
Great video! Very similar to car batteries and charging systems, it just always seems like bikes are magical in how they do things. Thanks again for the information!!
U betch and thanks for the shout out.
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LOL. I clicked on your link above for battery tender and it landed e at amazon on the very one I placed on my wish list last week. I went ahead and purchased it because I had some rewards points to buy it with and also found a free shipper in the list. All of you bikers should at least buy you a volt meter. Always make sure at your battery connections or even check it from your tender pigtail and make sure when your engine is running that you are putting out at least as 14.3 volt charge
Thanks Earl for supporting up and our videos by using that Amazon affiliate link we provided.
My Deltran 12V battery tender junior charger maintainer cane in the 14th of this month. My advice to biker owners is get one! I plugged mine in where my softail sits in the garage and the red charge stayed on about 10 minutes then the blinking green then the solid green. I just left it unto an hour ago and decided to go do my 2 to 3 day startup and before starting my battery had 12.95 volts. One throttle and chole and starter turned much faster than it usually does. While I was at it being my seat was off I used my volt meter I bought off amazon a year ago and my system is charging 14.5 which is where its been for the past 1.5 years. Back to the battery tender guys get one of these. The link Ryan has goes directly to it
Very useful. I have a battery on the way out. Will check tomorrow!
Hey thanks for the simple directions, having issues with my girl. Just dropped in a new battery and seems to be giving me problems still. Will test it to see if its the stator or regulator with your help...
Deuces.....
Makes me smile knowing the videos on this channel are helping bikers!
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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A most comprehensive guidance I even have seen ever, brilliant explications makes all damn thing clear as a bright sky. Special thanks for commenting the overall testing process, finding out a stator testing, whatnot. Definitely will subscribe in. God Bless and Ride Safe!
That's what we try to do here. Help, connect, and entertain as many bikers as we can worldwide!! Thanks so much
Any connection or wire that is faulty can cause high resistance capable of a battery failing this test. Grounds are most often overlooked. After all, they aren’t important? Good video. Corrosion is not always visible by observation, until you observe the actual surface areas
You are a rock star! Thank you for all the great videos!
Thank you Jesse. I appreciate that very much!
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Great video as are all of your others. Really liked the opening shots of Bickleton. Obviously you stopped at the Bluebird!
Yes, it was the Bluebird!!
thanks for the great video. I know how to use a mtr now 👍
Very helpful, I was curious as to how you would diagnose whether you had a battery issue or whether it was the alternator/stator, this clears it up a lot
Excellent excellent video!! I was having an issue with my bike becoming more reluctant to start, this videos helped me pin point the issue. New battery - problem solved. Thanks!!
Awesome!! Love hearing that the videos on this channel are helping!
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Straight to the point and direct info. Very helpful video thanks!
Thanks, finally, a video I could understand and follow along with.
Glad it helped!
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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Great video! Everything I needed to know in one vid! Thanks soo much! You guys make it sooo easy for us women riders to become more self sufficient!
That is music to our ears. Much time and effort for us to help as many bikes as we can worldwide!! We appreciate the feedback.
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That test under load is important....
although my lights can be lit.
It cannot spin the starter fast so the bike will not start.
Although my starter relay clicks, a good battery will give me options..thx.
Thank You Sir! Very Informational. Just completely replaced main wiring loom. But has crank no start now. Narrowed it down to 3 things due to this video battery, stator and fuses. Hell replace enough parts things become new again haha
Hey there great vid! i diagnosed everything just like in the video...
I have a brand new battery, it is fully charged, AND i got it tested, the battery tests great with 350 CCAs
Yet still i have the slow crank/voltage drop to about 8 volts when starting my Bike.
Its a Harley FLSTC (Heritage Softtail Classic 75HP)
Any Ideas what that could be?
Could the Starter itself be the Problem?
You have a great wristwatch in this video. Hot damn that is nice!
Good point about the battery tender, I just wish I didn't have to take the battery out to do so. Kind of sucks being nowhere near a power outlet when parked.
Great informative video.
Doing this tomorrow. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing.
I just learned how to make video tutorials, and your videos are inspiring for me.
Thank you..this solved my 04 f650 gs battery problem,It was failing to turn over the motor,the horn was making unusual quacking noisies....sounded like duck....I think I left the fog lights on...now,after an overnight smart meter charge, it reads 13.5v no load,hits down to 10v on start up and jumps back up to 14.2v when engine is running...The duck has left the bulding..The confusion surrounding batteries and power charging system can be very worrisome and off putting,but this video clears up a few things for me.>Subbed liked etc..
Great video. I was wondering about my reg/rect as they can be twitchy, after starting it jumped to over 14v so all good, phew, panic over. Many thanks. 👍
Thank you for this video, I followed everything you said and it helped me. Excellent video
The 12.4-12.6v is that what the battery needs to be with no power to it (before turning the key and lights coming on) or with the lights on
Amazing video. Clear content and too the point.
Good simple, straight forward, no frills (read: confusing B.S.) realistic useful instruction. It was a great help to me. Thank you!!
Straight forward?! The intro ruined it
whenever mentioning the alternator system, i wish people would mention the alternator rotor more often. those magnets are just as important for the system
Thank you Ryan. Great lesson.
U betcha!!
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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Hi. Dyna 2001 FXDP I have problem with burning regulators.wiring ground and plus checked. I measuring at minimum stator give 20- 23V but when accelerating it rises above 75- 80 V. In 10 minutes regulator burning. Stator already checked and looking good. Please help. Cheers
Thanks, I'll do this tomorrow and hope it's only the battery. The only worry is the batt is only 1 1/2 year old.
Thanks! Very helpful. Going to use your video to test mine today. Having issues w starting and also battery light comes on after 10 min of riding and bike dies.
Same here. How did you go with your testing and how you resolved the problem? Cheers brother
My battery has 13v but nothing light when turning the key. All fuses are good. Happened after I left the battery die with lights on. Is the bat dead?
Video was very helpful, thanks for taking time to make it
U betcha!!
Great video but better to remove wristwatches and rings when testing batteries or charging systems hope that helps.
Makes perfect sense. Thank you!
Come and visit if you get to the western rocky mountains, Calgary. I'll take you on a bit of an adventure.
very well explained . straight to the point & zero bullshit👍
This is why I am a patreon Ryan you keep it real this stuff is what we need thanks once again
Awesome Greg!!! Appreciate the shout out. Always working my tail off long hours, so I appreciate the feedback and that it's worth it and helping bikers.
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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Mom
No m o
Hi if my battery isn't holding charge but going up slowly when ticked over will it be my batterry?
This really helped me today. Mine was reading good but sluggish start. Tried the cranking and it dropped considerably. My Grizzly doesnt have pull start so im stranded if it fails when hunting and the walk back is rough.
Great info, thanks for the great videos you and your team produce
As always, your videos have helped me again.
Right on Chris, glad to help.
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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So i get a reasing of 12.5 -12.6 while running at idle and when i rev it does go up to 13s but it doesnt get to 14 at all does that mean my stator is junk its a r6
Cool very imformative appreciate this , will join soon as get some legal tender!
Great Video and cool shot of Bickleton too!
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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Really nice informative video but the talk about cold whether got me wondering if things are different for us equator folks.
I bought a battery it was working fine then now I had to charge it can it be because of the cold are I don’t use a tender
What does a battery tender put out when attached to battery
loved it... cheers from india 👍
Mine was the same showed 9.7 but when it hit compress. stroke it dropped like a rock. ,new battery and we ready to ride Thanks for the demo.
U betcha Kelly!!
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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The initial reading was with the innova meter and i would have liked to see the reading on the load test setting, compared to a direct reading on the d.c volt setting. Direct reading minus load test reading, may give an indication of the reduced capacity of a battery, which can be logged and monitored over time, giving the user a good idea of the life expectancy of the unit. What do you think ?
Love the channel and excellent video. We’re both batteries fully charged when you ran the tests? Thanks, keep the vids coming.
What does it mean if your battery doesn’t jump up to 13-14V? My stator is brand new and I’m using a good regulator from a buddy who has the same bike as I do…
A good, useful video .... thanks a bunch.
Thanks Ryan...
You are most welcome!
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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Hello I am a new subscriber and i have a 2005 Harley Dyna Low Rider the red key security light stays on when ridding is that normal
I had been using a cheap 5 dollar multi-meter I bought at a flea market. I recently bought a new multimeter and the two seem have a .20 difference between them when I check the same battery. I wish I knew which one was correct. Is that common to have that much of a difference between meters? I noticed that yours were like that too.
I have a 2010 Triumph Thunderbird that won't start. 1 year old battery. Apparently the ECU is set to not allow the bike to start if battery does not have enough power. I've cleaned the terminals, charged the battery and only hear a click after. Only 7,000 miles on the bike. I've tested the volts of the battery b4 and after trying to start and the volts drop significantly. I took the battery into Oreillys and they tested and said it was fine. Any thoughts? Could a bad solenoid cause this?
Very detailed and helpful video, thanks.
Great info! I have a Suzuki Burgman 650. Just replaced the battery. At idle I am seeing around 14.5 V. At 3000 rpm it drops to about 14.2V. Should I be concerned
I believe what I caught from this is that a little above the 12 when running is good meaning the charging system is giving back to the battery. I've also hear that when a low or drained battery running at higher rpms for awhile helps to recharge . Everyone correct me if this is wrong. 2008 Triumph tiger 1050
I recently installed a brand new HD battery. The battery died and won't take a charge on my battery tender. the red light flashes saying battery is not connected right. I think the battery has gone less the 3%. how can i get it to take a charge?
Another great reference video. Many thanks from UK 👍
Thanks much!! Super glad the videos are useful!!
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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Excellent explanation!
Thanks!
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my bike was dying I shut it off and wouldn't turn back on , I was able to ride it at least 10 miles like that...
so to diagnose
- I bought a new Harley battery and Harley regulator
- The volt meter is reading steady 12.54V at idle and even with a little throttle
- Ran a continuity test on the plug, the meter would jump to -100 ohms then go to 0 and stay at 0 (is that bad?)
- Did the test across each plug terminal, it stayed at 0 for each
sound like a bad stator? why would my street bob have a bad stator at 12k miles? its only a 2016
when I swapped my compensator I saw some brown discoloring on the stator cover, maybe it overheated?
Very informative. I’m just getting into to the mc lifestyle and I learned a lot with this vid. Thank you guys for all you do for riders
The battery on my tc185 reads: 11.2V while off. 10.8 when turned on. And when I try to crank it falls to 6v. I think I found my problem with the electric starter.
Looking for a little help, ok here’s the deal. Recently purchased a motorcycle that was sitting for years. And it don’t seem to spark on all cylinders like it should, unless I have jumper cables hooked to it from a running car.... battery is fine! Tried 3 battery’s two was new..... I can start the bike by jumping it off a vehicle. And I’m able to remove the jumper cables after it starts and it will still run. However I’ve not let it run for more than a minute.... next thing I noticed is someone has put a voltage meter on the bike and it always stays one mark below the green light unless jumper cables are hooked to it..... if the green light on the meter lights up green I get perfect spark! But however if not only front cylinder gets spark... I’ve also noticed when I hit the brake handle with ignition turned over the voltage meter practically drops to nothing! Now if I have jumper cables on like I mentioned the light on the voltage meter is green until I hit the brake handle then it drops a mark below green and won’t start.... sorry for all the confusion needed to pick at someone’s brain other mine... what could the problem be? P.s. the old owner said he was driving it down the road one day and it just started to cut out. Pulled it home and that’s where it sat for years