Each to his own, but you seemed to use up quite a lot of strength trying to find decent cam placements rather than using good nut slots. Of course, I do remember that the potential nut placements weren't all as good as they may look on a YT video.
THIS was exactly what I was thinking! I good nut is better than a good cam! Generally it's a LOT easier to find a good nut placement especially in an old peg crack too!
Choose the placement and then the gear to fit the placement. You're looking at a placement, choosing a piece of gear and, when it doesn't fit as well as you'd like, trying to put that piece of gear in somewhere else. Once you have spotted a good placement, select the gear to fit. If the first piece isn't right, select another to fit. As others have said in this and other videos, you are relying a bit too much on cams. Routes such as Regent Street have lots of really obvious bomber wire placements.
Totally agree with this. Also, Kuba, you seem to have no idea what gear is in your harness and where. You keen looking at it trying to discover what wonder it holds. And you keep going for sizes too big. Every time you picked a purple WC or yellow Totem, you could have used the Blue Totem, which you constantly ignored, even though you looked at a few times. I understand not wanting to use it early on, as it is a great peace of gear, but then again nuts would have been a great option each time if you knew your rack. Also, when you finally placed the bomber purple totem below the top crack, you could have removed the blue totem and yellow, to bring them with you higher up (especially the blue). At least your rope work was spot on. Every cloud...
Nooooooooo! Well done getting it finished. That top crack is a lonely place until you get to the ledge/peg. Effort! Good to be there with you, feeling the mounting pump and stress as you keep trying to get gear in. 'This one...nope.....this one.......nope........FFS.....this one.....nope......This one.....yes, thank goodness.'. Hahaha! We've all been there. Lot of wasted energy though. Despite the faffing, Totems look good for the peg scars. I might get a set if I ever get back into trad. I can highly recommend a set of DMM offset for this sort of thing (and grit generally) if you don't have them. They often work a treat in those Millstone/Lawrencefield cracks and can be quicker to place and more reassuring than cams in scars.
Man, the thing was I wasn't even pumped at the top crack, should have gone for thumbs down jams the whole time! When I got back on after the fall the jams felt really secure - the more annoyed I was with myself for falling off!😀 The bottom section was trickier than I expected tho, maybe those offsets would help, I spent ages below the traverse trying to place gear 😀 I'd love to see you getting on some hard trad for sure, bring it on!
@@KubaClimbsRocks That sucks. Oh well, many classic onsights remain on the grit. Go get it! My trad career topped out at grit E4 back in the day, and I get scared on Severes these days, so don't hold your breath for anything hard 😂
If I kept saving everything I wouldn't ever get on anything.. you are right! No man, with your strength and technique from bouldering you can still squeeze out some good stuff 💪
The hardest boulder I've done outdoors was V5 like 6 years ago :D I've been bouldering indoors consistently for the past two years, on a steep spray wall but since I mostly set the boulders I have no idea about the grades. Why do you ask? :)
I have a feeling the grades of routes will be much easier, at least on trad..I rarely have more than 2 goes, unlike on sport routes. But I also don't have so many opportunities to climb on trad..@@georgeefilms2625
Each to his own, but you seemed to use up quite a lot of strength trying to find decent cam placements rather than using good nut slots. Of course, I do remember that the potential nut placements weren't all as good as they may look on a YT video.
I've been getting quite a few comments about my reliance on cams, perhaps there's something to it! Thanks for the advice🙂
THIS was exactly what I was thinking! I good nut is better than a good cam! Generally it's a LOT easier to find a good nut placement especially in an old peg crack too!
It's a long time since I led this, but I remember a great hex 4 placement on the crux crack. Solid, and quick to place.
Glad you picked that one to fall off rather than Time for Tea! Coming back strong!
Haha you and me both 🤣Thanks man!
Was cheering when you finally placed that yellow totem! Great stuff.
Thanks man!
Awsome well done Kuba! Brilliant content loved watching . I will be doing this in next few months. Thanks Kuba!!
Cheers dude, bring it! Get back to me when you do, stoked to hear about your experience on it 🙂
Choose the placement and then the gear to fit the placement. You're looking at a placement, choosing a piece of gear and, when it doesn't fit as well as you'd like, trying to put that piece of gear in somewhere else. Once you have spotted a good placement, select the gear to fit. If the first piece isn't right, select another to fit. As others have said in this and other videos, you are relying a bit too much on cams. Routes such as Regent Street have lots of really obvious bomber wire placements.
Thanks for the advice man :)
Totally agree with this. Also, Kuba, you seem to have no idea what gear is in your harness and where. You keen looking at it trying to discover what wonder it holds. And you keep going for sizes too big. Every time you picked a purple WC or yellow Totem, you could have used the Blue Totem, which you constantly ignored, even though you looked at a few times. I understand not wanting to use it early on, as it is a great peace of gear, but then again nuts would have been a great option each time if you knew your rack.
Also, when you finally placed the bomber purple totem below the top crack, you could have removed the blue totem and yellow, to bring them with you higher up (especially the blue). At least your rope work was spot on. Every cloud...
@@Mitzbergatc Thanks man, I climb trad so rarely that it's tough to stay organized when I do :) At least there is room for improvement! :D
Smashing them out! Go on Kuba!
Thanks Luca! Falling off some of them too!😀
Nooooooooo! Well done getting it finished. That top crack is a lonely place until you get to the ledge/peg.
Effort! Good to be there with you, feeling the mounting pump and stress as you keep trying to get gear in. 'This one...nope.....this one.......nope........FFS.....this one.....nope......This one.....yes, thank goodness.'. Hahaha! We've all been there. Lot of wasted energy though.
Despite the faffing, Totems look good for the peg scars. I might get a set if I ever get back into trad. I can highly recommend a set of DMM offset for this sort of thing (and grit generally) if you don't have them. They often work a treat in those Millstone/Lawrencefield cracks and can be quicker to place and more reassuring than cams in scars.
Man, the thing was I wasn't even pumped at the top crack, should have gone for thumbs down jams the whole time! When I got back on after the fall the jams felt really secure - the more annoyed I was with myself for falling off!😀
The bottom section was trickier than I expected tho, maybe those offsets would help, I spent ages below the traverse trying to place gear 😀
I'd love to see you getting on some hard trad for sure, bring it on!
@@KubaClimbsRocks That sucks. Oh well, many classic onsights remain on the grit. Go get it!
My trad career topped out at grit E4 back in the day, and I get scared on Severes these days, so don't hold your breath for anything hard 😂
If I kept saving everything I wouldn't ever get on anything.. you are right!
No man, with your strength and technique from bouldering you can still squeeze out some good stuff 💪
this is awesome
Such a cool route!
whats your bouldering grade, Kuba?
The hardest boulder I've done outdoors was V5 like 6 years ago :D I've been bouldering indoors consistently for the past two years, on a steep spray wall but since I mostly set the boulders I have no idea about the grades. Why do you ask? :)
@@KubaClimbsRocks just for some idea in the translation in your maximum technical skill to outdoor graded routes that you do.
I have a feeling the grades of routes will be much easier, at least on trad..I rarely have more than 2 goes, unlike on sport routes. But I also don't have so many opportunities to climb on trad..@@georgeefilms2625
You could benefit from some Tricams! Would make some of those placements easier perhaps.
Perhaps I just need to get better at placing gear 😀 but I never had a tricam so maybe 🤔