Hey man, been watching you for a year or so now and thanks to you I just managed to take a fully dull knife to razor sharp for the first time. Thanks for your work!
I owe a big thank you to you Ryky! I have a Chicago Cutlery chef knife that my wife and I got for our wedding. We were young and lazy and tossed all of our knives in the dishwasher. The chef knife has rusted and chipped, so watching this video inspired me to invest in some whetstones. I also have been using a Dalstrong Phantom Filet knife that I don’t have sharpening tools for. Hoping I can get those knives better than they were before! Again thank you for these videos! They’ve been a big help in prepping!
Really nice job on that knife... reminds me of when I spent an hour removing deep chips out of my sister's knife. Was complete trash at first but then ended up being near perfect. Thanks for the video...
Great video to watch on a Sunday morning! As everyone else is asking; where did you get that knife from? You did a great job and it looks amazing. You should be proud to keep that in your collection.
Thank you for doing these full knife restoration, full length videos. I've watched three of them so far, and watching how you continually change the bevel angles throughout the first part of the process has given me more confidence to reprofile the bevel on my practice knife. Unfortunately, the lowest grit I have ATM is a #1000 Suehiro Cerax, when a #320 Suehiro Cerax would likely be ideal for the VG10. Never the less I'll be attempting to go from about 20 degrees, down to around 15 degrees on the #1000.
If you don't require larger grit sizes (lower number stones), which few of us do as they serve mostly for reprofile and restoration work, then consider sandpaper for those grits. .
great video! THANKS I also like the idea of posting both a short video to give people the general idea and a long video so people can learn more in depth. If only long videos, we can't watch during parts of our busy lives unless we schedule in the time. this way we can plan. OR if only short videos we miss some of the in depth analysis and explanations and seeing minor adjustments you make along the way as you react to what's happening in real time.
I confess; this knife I would clean up the edge and tip with my T-7 Tormek with diamond wheel, and then reset the bevel by hand. I can control the T-7 to advance into the wheel by less than a mm each step, and I would freehand the tip on the wheel. It would leave me with a flat edge, but stoning the bevel would be fairly easy.
I recommend using Evaporust to remove rust. It's a non toxic solution that doesn't require any abrasion to work, therefore no scratches on the part. Those erasers look like they work very well though.
saw your video two days ago, at home i went down to my bike shed, where al my sport stuf is, My iceskate sharpening gear also. Got the Wetstone my father used 40 years ago, and took a knife that used to be real sharp, like long ago. Lots of dents in there. I even fell once on my bare foot. blood shot out, but the cut was real clean. I was thinking on letting it sharpend till i saw your video. It's real schap again, paper no problem, but i will put some more time in the movement. thx!!
Ricky, thanks for showing us the steps of the restoration. Question: what was in the white Nalgene bottle, water or mineral oil? I only saw you add a few drops to the Atoma 140.
Because I only used a couple of drops I believe he was using mineral oil however since it was a kitchen knife I suggest olive oil. I believe he was using oil because it doesn't take that much oil and you don't have to constantly be wedding the stone also he was not using stone he was using diamond plate. A whetstone is only a whetstone until it gets oil on it thin it is an oil stone regardless what it was. I have a collection of furnish bricks that were waterstone's until somebody got too much bacon fat on them. I'll have to cook the grease out of them completely and then we face them completely.
Hi Ryky, I like the new look of the old knife. The rustic Nashiji finish is cool. Good video to encourage people to repair their knifes, if something went wrong.
Splendid knife, and excellent commitment for his rescue. I am extremely picky and would have taken off the handle: sometimes the rust continues to expand until it is cracked. I hope that those who use this craft in the future will have more attention and care than the previous owner. Thanks again for the religious care of this work of art.
This is so great, was waiting for the complete video. Waiting for my flight home from Chicago and watching. ^_^ Lol, I was rambling on a bit to mum about knife stuff I've learned from here.
Cant wait to see you do the handle work. My fave knife is a Tojiro even though I got some nice Dalstrong and Enso ones. But I always find myself going back to my Tojiro Santoku knife :)
Beautiful Job Ryky restoring the knife to better than original condition! Really love the new Sabatier style you put on it. Question do you still have it!
Thanks Ryky, great instructional video So how how long did it take all told Was it just 40 minutes or so. And thanks my knife arrived yesterday So in love with it
I'd take this knife to my lubricated grinding wheel to remove the chips and restore the tip. Then, I'd take it to my atoma 140 to start putting an edge profile on it. Grinding wheels are a lot cheaper than diamond stones, and they work very well for removing metal quickly. The key is to go steadily and not to heat up the steel, which damages the temper and hardness of the knife.
Hey Ryky! Thanks for the video, it's amazing to see this. I'd love to try it out myself but I don't know where to get cheap knives to restore. Do you have any good source that's accessible in europe?
Just restored a very very old natural sharpening stone my grandfather had on his workbench. Some research shows it’s from the 1930’s or before it was in bad shape. Probably weighs 4lbs. Atoma 140 did the job eventually to make it usable on all sides but man it was a lot of work. Stone is super hard but not terribly slow and it’s really quite fine. Don’t know grit wise but 800 at least.
Hi Ryky You do some outstanding work. Where do you get the broken, damaged and returned knives from? I am wanting to try my hand a restoration and/or repair. Thanks
I think you should have ground the spine to fix the tip, going to a santoku like shape. Would have made more sense and would have kept the knife slimmer behind the edge.
Is that just the white #2 series? Not surprising. You could get it to look like that in a rainy weekend. It's also super easy to work with. I totally reprofiled one into a pretty darn nice knife.
Beautifully done Ricky, now i see how to use those erasers. Even thought this video of yours is 2 years old, i bought those erasers the moment you advertised them in your channel and have had them for a long time. Now i know how to properly use them after watching this video of yours. Thanks a lot also Ricky for showing how you restore a broken knife with those diamond plates. What grit do you recommend i use in order to remove a deep chip in a knife i was trying to fix. I managed to bring it down but it still needs work and i think s diamond plate is more suitable for the job. I have a 400/1000 grit diamond plate I've been using to remove chips. By the way Ricky what fluid are you using on the plate?
i use the Atoma 140 store.burrfection.com/collections/accessories/products/atoma-diamond-sharpener?variant=31877635407968, 400 grit is too fine for chip removal, or it would take too long
Nice - Adding - I'm surprised you didn't use a buffing wheel (mounted) and some polishing compound to put a polish on the blade. For those who dislike scratches on their beautiful knives just a minute each side and the blade looks new. But you must know about this from visiting knife makers?
Looks great, Ryky! Question(s): a) Did you consider shaving down from the spine rather than up from the edge, and b) would you ever use a file rather than a stone in the early going?
Burrfection: Sure, you'd want to blend the curve of the spine gradually, probably starting back about as far as you did on the edge. I just think this would change the edge profile less.
Remove from the spine is the less time consuming. 1. There's almost only soft steel 2. Don't have to thin the edge and reprofile the hard steel 3. The kuro uchi finish i more or less removed and won't be noticed.
i'm not an expert, and i when i was looking at the work needed, and considering the missing tip, and the multiple chips running along the entire edge, it made more sense to grind down the cutting edge.
Wouldn't it be better to remove the spine near the tip down to the blade instead of the blade up to the spine? That way you keep a more original blade shape.
@@pjo1964 Of course.. The video is just rust removal in my opinion, that "broken" tip is unnecessary to "fix" for my kitchen work. My Gyuto was dropped from table height and snaped/chipped on the tip about 5mm, I haven't fix it till now haha. No single effect on it cutting performance
I have a really cool old Japanese knife I found at a thrift store. I’m not sure what the story is with it but I can tell that the steel is very high quality. Would you be interested in restoring it?
I saw a video long time ago on handles someone gave you, did you ever use them? Also I am curious on your sharpening technique. While back you use to wipe off the slurry off the stones. This video showing you keep the slurry on the stones while sharpening, Is there a reason for this ?
Hi RIcky question what is the steel on that knife is it white or blue carbon steel and is the atoma better than DMT Diamond course plate .Regards Dean from Oz
I’m a bit puzzled as to why you removed metal from the edge side of the blade when reprofiling the broken tip. Why didn’t you reshape the back instead? That would’ve left the cutting edge of the knife with the same profile and the thickness behind the edge consistent.
you can do it any way that works. i do that to help the cutting edge stay relatively "thin" narrow so it's less work to do it later. since i'm removing chips, it brings the cutting edge closer to the spine, and the blade generally thickens as you move that way, so i remove a bit of material to make thinning easier in the long-run
without a fine finish, there are millions of microscopic crevices that will allow for more rust to form incredibly easily. It's not just aesthetic, a fine finish means there is less surface area where oxidation can occur.
Hi there. Just wondering if you ever came across a knife brand called Sabun. Haven’t seen any reviews about the knife either. Would be nice if you can do a review.
Hi Ryky. Love your channel bud. I’ve learned a lot from you and have really honed my technique at sharpening with my 2 Choseras. My friends and family love me😄. I like the black basin you are using here to contain the mess. Can ya tell me where I can get one. Thanks. Tony
@@Burrfection Skipping ahead and/or playing the video in fast forward where appropriate. Showing a little of each step, while sharing the relevant information, before moving on to the next step. Maybe some people genuinely enjoy watching someone sharpen a knife for 35 minutes, but most of us only need a 5-10 minute condensed version. Skipping ahead on my own doesn't work because I never know when you are going to say something relevant. Perhaps you could upload two versions of video where this is needed. You would probably even pull in some extra views if people like me initially find the longer version then notice the condensed version in the side column and switch to it.
Where do you find ruined knives? I know where to buy new ones. I could buy a new knife but the attraction to repairing and using a knife that was discarded like trash appeals to me.
Sigh....I have been trying to sharpen knifes now for a while and I cant say its a total success. I do manage to get them fairly sharp but its nowhere near razor sharp.....what am I doing wrong? I try to follow all your guides as good as I can but I guess I am having problems maintaining the exact same angle when switching stones or something.....
I have a Zwilling chefs knife that is has slight rusting and pitting on the edge, that I think I will attempt to rescue. This video has inspired me to attempt a restoration. =)
Hey man, been watching you for a year or so now and thanks to you I just managed to take a fully dull knife to razor sharp for the first time. Thanks for your work!
I owe a big thank you to you Ryky! I have a Chicago Cutlery chef knife that my wife and I got for our wedding. We were young and lazy and tossed all of our knives in the dishwasher. The chef knife has rusted and chipped, so watching this video inspired me to invest in some whetstones. I also have been using a Dalstrong Phantom Filet knife that I don’t have sharpening tools for. Hoping I can get those knives better than they were before! Again thank you for these videos! They’ve been a big help in prepping!
Really nice job on that knife... reminds me of when I spent an hour removing deep chips out of my sister's knife. Was complete trash at first but then ended up being near perfect. Thanks for the video...
These restorations are by far my fav videos of yours! Would love more if you have the time/interest!
*Long videos--are the best way to go!* *Those who prefer short--can fast forward.*
Great video to watch on a Sunday morning! As everyone else is asking; where did you get that knife from? You did a great job and it looks amazing. You should be proud to keep that in your collection.
I agree if that's the 1st time hes reshaped to blade. Then again I'm a knife maker so you can only keep so many then you have to sell them.
Thank you for doing these full knife restoration, full length videos. I've watched three of them so far, and watching how you continually change the bevel angles throughout the first part of the process has given me more confidence to reprofile the bevel on my practice knife. Unfortunately, the lowest grit I have ATM is a #1000 Suehiro Cerax, when a #320 Suehiro Cerax would likely be ideal for the VG10. Never the less I'll be attempting to go from about 20 degrees, down to around 15 degrees on the #1000.
If you don't require larger grit sizes (lower number stones), which few of us do as they serve mostly for reprofile and restoration work, then consider sandpaper for those grits. .
Oh Man, so sad to see such a beautiful knife mistreated like this.
I would love to get a knife like this to repair then cherish.
Indeed we do cherish beautiful neglected works of art that we restore with care.
great video!
THANKS
I also like the idea of posting both a short video to give people the general idea and a long video so people can learn more in depth.
If only long videos, we can't watch during parts of our busy lives unless we schedule in the time. this way we can plan.
OR if only short videos we miss some of the in depth analysis and explanations and seeing minor adjustments you make along the way as you react to what's happening in real time.
I confess; this knife I would clean up the edge and tip with my T-7 Tormek with diamond wheel, and then reset the bevel by hand. I can control the T-7 to advance into the wheel by less than a mm each step, and I would freehand the tip on the wheel. It would leave me with a flat edge, but stoning the bevel would be fairly easy.
I love that you make Short and long videos separated. Keep up the good work
Awesome restoration. I’m glad you posted both videos. Enjoyed them both! :)
I recommend using Evaporust to remove rust. It's a non toxic solution that doesn't require any abrasion to work, therefore no scratches on the part. Those erasers look like they work very well though.
Thank you for the quick response to upload requests!
saw your video two days ago, at home i went down to my bike shed, where al my sport stuf is, My iceskate sharpening gear also. Got the Wetstone my father used 40 years ago, and took a knife that used to be real sharp, like long ago. Lots of dents in there. I even fell once on my bare foot. blood shot out, but the cut was real clean. I was thinking on letting it sharpend till i saw your video.
It's real schap again, paper no problem, but i will put some more time in the movement. thx!!
Ricky, thanks for showing us the steps of the restoration. Question: what was in the white Nalgene bottle, water or mineral oil? I only saw you add a few drops to the Atoma 140.
Because I only used a couple of drops I believe he was using mineral oil however since it was a kitchen knife I suggest olive oil. I believe he was using oil because it doesn't take that much oil and you don't have to constantly be wedding the stone also he was not using stone he was using diamond plate. A whetstone is only a whetstone until it gets oil on it thin it is an oil stone regardless what it was. I have a collection of furnish bricks that were waterstone's until somebody got too much bacon fat on them. I'll have to cook the grease out of them completely and then we face them completely.
Hi Ryky, I like the new look of the old knife. The rustic Nashiji finish is cool. Good video to encourage people to repair their knifes, if something went wrong.
yup. you don't have to do a lot
I was on the fence of getting a tojiro santoku. This vid make me jump the fence and get it
Splendid knife, and excellent commitment for his rescue.
I am extremely picky and would have taken off the handle: sometimes the rust continues to expand until it is cracked.
I hope that those who use this craft in the future will have more attention and care than the previous owner.
Thanks again for the religious care of this work of art.
Bummer that you had to destroy the Kuro Ichi finish but it's a perfect restoration other than that. Great job, Ryky.
Great great work! I also hate making old knives completely new. It just kills them.
Fantastic work as always Ryky!
Just a heads up, audio cuts out from 20:50-21:05.
No big deal, just thought you should know
Nice job Ricky !
Fantastic job. Really enjoyed this & your great workmanship & knowledge. Might have to get a set of those erasers.
This is so great, was waiting for the complete video. Waiting for my flight home from Chicago and watching. ^_^ Lol, I was rambling on a bit to mum about knife stuff I've learned from here.
Ryky vs. Onion.. Nice finish to this video, that noise you make says it all.
Amazing difference - looks great!!
Cant wait to see you do the handle work. My fave knife is a Tojiro even though I got some nice Dalstrong and Enso ones. But I always find myself going back to my Tojiro Santoku knife :)
Very nice job Ryky
Beautiful Job Ryky restoring the knife to better than original condition! Really love the new Sabatier style you put on it. Question do you still have it!
Thanks Ryky, great instructional video
So how how long did it take all told
Was it just 40 minutes or so.
And thanks my knife arrived yesterday
So in love with it
i realy love your video channel i hope in the future you will give me some of your old knife like you video restoration one of your fan 😍😍😍😍😍
I'd take this knife to my lubricated grinding wheel to remove the chips and restore the tip. Then, I'd take it to my atoma 140 to start putting an edge profile on it. Grinding wheels are a lot cheaper than diamond stones, and they work very well for removing metal quickly. The key is to go steadily and not to heat up the steel, which damages the temper and hardness of the knife.
I see a emerging market for these rusty knives )
Yes! Thanks for uploading 👍🏽
Awsome video thanks to this j was able to restore the tip on my knife to almost perfect thank you
Great work brother
Hey Ryky! Thanks for the video, it's amazing to see this. I'd love to try it out myself but I don't know where to get cheap knives to restore. Do you have any good source that's accessible in europe?
AWESOME JOB.
V.good job
Thank you! Cheers!
Sweet video. Your audio is really good as well. Maybe you should do a few videos on what you're using for Youtubing.
You must be planning something special for April Fools Day also, Sharpening.com folks are good at humor, but you’re the best.
He can do a video about how a dollar store knife beat a $300 knife 😂
Just restored a very very old natural sharpening stone my grandfather had on his workbench. Some research shows it’s from the 1930’s or before it was in bad shape. Probably weighs 4lbs. Atoma 140 did the job eventually to make it usable on all sides but man it was a lot of work. Stone is super hard but not terribly slow and it’s really quite fine. Don’t know grit wise but 800 at least.
Hi Ryky
You do some outstanding work. Where do you get the broken, damaged and returned knives from? I am wanting to try my hand a restoration and/or repair.
Thanks
He works for a company named "Cutlery and More", and gets the rejects from them.
Riki, you should get a 2x72" belt grinder to do repairs with.
M P work sharp is better and smaller
I think you should have ground the spine to fix the tip, going to a santoku like shape. Would have made more sense and would have kept the knife slimmer behind the edge.
love the work how do you come across these rusty and damaged kitchen knives do people send them to you
Looks good mate 😊
I would have used totally different tooling for this whole process but the knife looks great.
always use what you have, and there is never one way of doing things.
What kind stone you like to use for mirror finishing? I got some knife with rust that need to be clean
Is that just the white #2 series? Not surprising. You could get it to look like that in a rainy weekend. It's also super easy to work with. I totally reprofiled one into a pretty darn nice knife.
I normally do any reprofiling with a belt or disk sander. After that I rebevel the knife with the belt, and finish the sahrpening with stones.
Beautifully done Ricky, now i see how to use those erasers. Even thought this video of yours is 2 years old, i bought those erasers the moment you advertised them in your channel and have had them for a long time. Now i know how to properly use them after watching this video of yours. Thanks a lot also Ricky for showing how you restore a broken knife with those diamond plates. What grit do you recommend i use in order to remove a deep chip in a knife i was trying to fix. I managed to bring it down but it still needs work and i think s diamond plate is more suitable for the job. I have a 400/1000 grit diamond plate I've been using to remove chips. By the way Ricky what fluid are you using on the plate?
i use the Atoma 140 store.burrfection.com/collections/accessories/products/atoma-diamond-sharpener?variant=31877635407968,
400 grit is too fine for chip removal, or it would take too long
@@Burrfection How would your approach change if this was a single edge grind?
Have you ever thought about using a file to remove material faster?
Nice work! But you'll want to do the tang inside the handle as well. Looks like the rust has spread into it.
Where do you buy vintage knives/ knifes for restoring??
Interesting video. Would ove to get that knife
love it, but what do you do with the restored knives?
I think I read that tojiro handles are replaceable in japan but are glued for overseas sales. I guess they replace handles more frequently.
I have one to restore as well. Just ordered some erasers from you.
Nice - Adding - I'm surprised you didn't use a buffing wheel (mounted) and some polishing compound to put a polish on the blade. For those who dislike scratches on their beautiful knives just a minute each side and the blade looks new. But you must know about this from visiting knife makers?
nice job
Looks great, Ryky! Question(s): a) Did you consider shaving down from the spine rather than up from the edge, and b) would you ever use a file rather than a stone in the early going?
you could, but the drop of the spine at the tip could have looked too..... exaggerated.
Burrfection: Sure, you'd want to blend the curve of the spine gradually, probably starting back about as far as you did on the edge. I just think this would change the edge profile less.
Burrfection: How about using a file?
Remove from the spine is the less time consuming.
1. There's almost only soft steel
2. Don't have to thin the edge and reprofile the hard steel
3. The kuro uchi finish i more or less removed and won't be noticed.
i'm not an expert, and i when i was looking at the work needed, and considering the missing tip, and the multiple chips running along the entire edge, it made more sense to grind down the cutting edge.
Cool maybe do something with the waterjet channel they want to get into knife making
Wouldn't it be better to remove the spine near the tip down to the blade instead of the blade up to the spine? That way you keep a more original blade shape.
I think the video it's pretty much done at 4:18
Not even close. Must watch with patience and a desire to know.
Only your opinion. Everyone has a different interest and a different patience level and desire to watch.
@@pjo1964 Of course.. The video is just rust removal in my opinion, that "broken" tip is unnecessary to "fix" for my kitchen work.
My Gyuto was dropped from table height and snaped/chipped on the tip about 5mm, I haven't fix it till now haha. No single effect on it cutting performance
Awesome!
Where do you get the knives from? Are they your own, or do you buy them on a market?
i would also like to know
Doubt it was his and got that bad, unless intentional. Ebay might be a place to check if you're looking.
@@baseballhunter42 thanks I'll look
He would never allow a knife to get rusted like that so you know he got it from somebody.
Wonderful video. I was wondering if you got a change to try Wusthof new Epicure line and whether or not you will do a review on them.
Is there a link for the knife handle replacements? Or where I might be able to find damaged knives to learn to repair with?
What is the box that you are sharpening in? That looks like a good way to keep things clean if you do not have a sink or a stone pond.
He makes those trays and sells them in his website.
My only suggestion is that you should lay down a 200 grit to start with.
Next time
I would have removed steel from the spine.
Where do you get the rust erasers??!
I have a really cool old Japanese knife I found at a thrift store. I’m not sure what the story is with it but I can tell that the steel is very high quality. Would you be interested in restoring it?
Therapeutic and relaxing to watch. Now to find me a rusty blade.
It looks and sounds like a diamond plate. What is it? And whatever it is, what "grit" rating?
Is going to be a long time before I watched you sharpen another knife I'll bet you do pretty good on sushi blades
I am ok
I saw a video long time ago on handles someone gave you, did you ever use them? Also I am curious on your sharpening technique. While back you use to wipe off the slurry off the stones. This video showing you keep the slurry on the stones while sharpening, Is there a reason for this ?
That knife brand is called TOJIRO knives, from Japan. note: I don't know anything about it, not a pro just offering a comment.
Hi RIcky question what is the steel on that knife is it white or blue carbon steel and is the atoma better than DMT Diamond course plate .Regards Dean from Oz
Please announce your stone sequence when you begin each one.
How would you say that Tojiro knives compare to Shun? And do you know what sort of Rockwell they’re rated at?
It seems you havent done the following already so ... i'll just leave the suggestion here:
Sharpen one of your Knives on a Piece of Medium / Hardwood.
I’m a bit puzzled as to why you removed metal from the edge side of the blade when reprofiling the broken tip. Why didn’t you reshape the back instead? That would’ve left the cutting edge of the knife with the same profile and the thickness behind the edge consistent.
you can do it any way that works. i do that to help the cutting edge stay relatively "thin" narrow so it's less work to do it later. since i'm removing chips, it brings the cutting edge closer to the spine, and the blade generally thickens as you move that way, so i remove a bit of material to make thinning easier in the long-run
oven cleaner and then if necessary steel wool does remove rust also wd40 with cloth does the job to.
without a fine finish, there are millions of microscopic crevices that will allow for more rust to form incredibly easily.
It's not just aesthetic, a fine finish means there is less surface area where oxidation can occur.
Anyone knows where to get knifes like these? Wanna try it by myself 😊
Secondhand stores, pawn shops and ebay
Hi there. Just wondering if you ever came across a knife brand called Sabun. Haven’t seen any reviews about the knife either. Would be nice if you can do a review.
Lovely just really wnat to know where I could get those small rocks to clean the knife with I'm Satu in south africa
Try kitchensamurai dot coza, I got Naniwa rust erasers from there. Look under "water stones" category.
Do you have an email where I can send you some info and questions?
Hi Ryky. Love your channel bud. I’ve learned a lot from you and have really honed my technique at sharpening with my 2 Choseras. My friends and family love me😄. I like the black basin you are using here to contain the mess. Can ya tell me where I can get one. Thanks.
Tony
i made my myself with a custom made carbon fiber plate and custom silicon moulding..... maybe i'll make some more
Wow! Impressive bud, you’re a handy guy😄 BTW, I grew up in Sac. Thanks for the vids.
What the proper name to buy the rust eraser please?
here you go burrfectionstore.com/collections/accessories/products/sabitoru-rust-eraser, the coarse one is what i use
Great video . . . but have you ever heard of time lapse?
What is that?
@@Burrfection Skipping ahead and/or playing the video in fast forward where appropriate. Showing a little of each step, while sharing the relevant information, before moving on to the next step.
Maybe some people genuinely enjoy watching someone sharpen a knife for 35 minutes, but most of us only need a 5-10 minute condensed version. Skipping ahead on my own doesn't work because I never know when you are going to say something relevant.
Perhaps you could upload two versions of video where this is needed. You would probably even pull in some extra views if people like me initially find the longer version then notice the condensed version in the side column and switch to it.
How is the handle in such good condition? Usually the handle is the first to go in japanese knives since its made from soft wood
Where do you find ruined knives? I know where to buy new ones. I could buy a new knife but the attraction to repairing and using a knife that was discarded like trash appeals to me.
me too
Right? That would be so fun
Ask friends and family to repair their junk knives. Most people don't have great knives and are all too happy to have you try to fix it.
at 3:30 you can actually hear him start to cry from removing the kurouchi finish :'( i would be sad too
what about the tang? it could be just as rusted in the handle... 😕
🙈🙊
Rust requires oxygen. depending on how the handle is adhered to the tang, it may not have been exposed to oxygen.
will know when he sends it for replacement to Akazawa 😅
Sigh....I have been trying to sharpen knifes now for a while and I cant say its a total success. I do manage to get them fairly sharp but its nowhere near razor sharp.....what am I doing wrong? I try to follow all your guides as good as I can but I guess I am having problems maintaining the exact same angle when switching stones or something.....
I have a Zwilling chefs knife that is has slight rusting and pitting on the edge, that I think I will attempt to rescue. This video has inspired me to attempt a restoration. =)