Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting - The Blue Zone - Shoulders, Neck & Upper Back
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- Today on Fit Tip Tuesday I’m kicking off a new series, called Efficient Work Flow for Fitting a Bodice or Top. Because a bodice hangs from your shoulder it makes sense to start fitting at the top of the pattern pieces. In this first part of this series, I explain how to start there and make some simple adjustments to the shoulder, neck & upper back to create a custom anchor for you for muslin to hang from. There is a companion PDF for this tutorial that includes instructions and links to the tutorials you will need to fit your bodice.
03:31 Adjustment 1: Length of Shoulder
12:57 Slope of Shoulder
13:10 Adjust Sleeve Cap a Like Amount
16:05 Forward/Backward Ball of the Shoulder
18:13 Neck Position
19:26 High Round Back
20:36 Next Steps and Outro
PDF Companions:
The Complete PDF: jsterndesigns....
Individual Parts of the PDF:
Efficient Work Flow in Bodice Fitting - Shoulders, Neck & Upper Back
jsterndesigns....
Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting - The Pink Zone PDF Companion
jsterndesigns....
Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting: Complete Video Series
Prep Pattern and Sew Half Muslin: • Efficient Work Flow fo...
Tips for Solo Bodice Fitting: • Efficient Work Flow Fo...
Pink Zone - Armhole Depth & Position and Ease of Bust Dart: • Efficient Work Flow fo...
Pink Zone - Waistline, Hem and Ease: • Efficient Work Flow fo...
Efficient Work Flow for Sleeve Fitting: • Efficient Work Flow fo...
This is a huge help. I appreciate the zone focus as it helps to identify what adjustments may be needed before you get too far along.
Thanks Pat!
Since you are running this series on bodice fitting, would there be room to run sleeve fitting as well? Long ago you showed a woman who drafted her sleeve to get rid of those dreaded horizontal drag lines twisting down the sleeve. I have tried to figure out just exactly how she did that and cannnot visualize this. I have struggled with this forever (dart at elbow and changing one piece sleeve to two) without any success. Seeing you take a piece of fabric and drafting it into a sleeve at the right angle to avoid those drag lines would be so very helpful. Thank you.
Yes! I'm going to include the sleeve as we work along... Bodice first then sleeves! That twisted sleeve to remove drag lines was amazing! Thinking about it now, I'm wondering if we could have rotated the sleeve in the armhole vs. twisting the sleeve... Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you so much for all the fitting video's, and the coral you now build around it! You are so generous as a teacher.
My Pleasure! Thank you for the kind words and for fitting along with me
Thanks for organizing this process. I have a dowager’s hump. Your directions for that have my tops fitting splendidly now.
Incredible 🩵🩵
Thanks so much, and thank you for fitting along with me!
I'm enjoying the fitting videos, I now think I have linebacker shoulders and a low neck compared to the commercial patterns. Probably need UK size 20 for the shoulders and 16 for the bust 😂
Yay, we are shape sisters at our neck and shoulders! ...Start with the high bust size then you can adjust the shoulder length to fit!! (Much easier than taking out excess ease down at your bust! Thanks for fitting along with me!
All I can say is thank you, thank you, thank you.
You're very welcome! Thank you for fitting along with me
A really great fit guide. Amazing how once you alter one thing you have so many other parts to alter.
That always amazes me too.... Hoping to whittle the adjustments down to as few as possible! Thank you for fitting along with me
That shoulder extension idea is priceless! Thanks so much. ❤
You are so welcome! Thank you for fitting along with me
Glad to hear you got your computer issues fixed. We just went through Close to 6 hours of no electricity. Due to storms on the east coast. These tips are so awesome. I found I do have to add to my back shoulder length. I’m going to have to listen to shoulder slant a time or two to totally get it. This is going to be an awesome series.
Sorry to hear about the electricity! Here in Connecticut where I live it wasn't so bad... I was worried that we would get water in the basement... I think we made it out dry! Thank you for fitting along with me!
Thank you so much! This was so helpful 😊
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for fitting along with me
This is BRILLIANT Jennifer! I do this stuff all the time, but you find the funnest way to do it. I never knew to add ease to the shoulder length. I put it right on the measurement. I bought your guide and will be watching for the pink part video.
Glad it was helpful! :) Pink parts are coming soon! Thanks for fitting along with me
Having an order to follow will help deal with the problem that when you adjust one thing it affects something else.
:) That's what I'm hoping!! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks!
Thank you so much! and thank you for fitting along with me
So glad you did this video. I was wondering if there was such a thing as “order of fitting adjustments” I found out by accident that you have to do the round back adjustment before you can do a swayback adjustment. These instructions are fantastic.
Thanks so much!! and that's true, the round back is above the sway back adjustment :) Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you so much for explaining this so simply . I have done the shoulder adjustment and can hardly wait to sew the mussline
Thanks so much! I'm excited to hear how it fits... Here's the tutorial showing how to make your muslin: czcams.com/video/T0YQxGMeof8/video.html ...and some tips for solo bodice fitting czcams.com/video/KmSrlng1H7U/video.html Thanks for the fitting along with me
This is excellent! Thank you! P.S. The workbook isn't listed on your website. I had to come back to this video to find the link for it.
Thank you! Part 2 of this workbook is coming next week, It includes everything I've covered on Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting over the past few weeks... Plus adjusting the Pink Zone! Also, I appreciate you letting me know you couldn't find the workbook on my website. I must not have put the right "tags" on it so it shows up... I'll go fix it Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you for the excellent fitting resources and videos!
My Pleasure! Thank you for fitting along with me
So glad you got your computer going again!
Me Too... Thanks for fitting along with me
You are welcome! I think I got hold of oliso. It says they will reply tomorrow. Thanks for the help!
You did a great job of explaining this. I've just spent far too long making a moulage and 90% of my problem has been two different shoulder lines neither of which match my pattern. I kept hiking up the shoulder lines and then it made my bust and underams move up too much.
Thanks so much! ... We will be moving down to the armholes and bust next... Thanks you for following along with me
I just revisited this tutorial and downloaded the guide. I'm working on a muslin for a Lutterloh pattern and I'm anxious to get started. Thank you so much for this!
You are so welcome!
This is brilliant! Thank you to the person who asked this question! And thank you Jennifer for this terrific series! 💕
Glad you enjoyed it! :) I love my sewing friend followers!!! They come up with the best questions!! and they help me come up with content that people actually need! Thank you for fitting along with me
Excellent tutorial! Love your easy to understand instructions; you have a great way to help demystify the process! Mavis
Thank you so much! and thank you for fitting along with me
Thank you so much Jennifer, your video and instructions are so easy to follow. I have all the issues you are referring to 🙄 and you have explained so clearly how to go about making the adjustments. I have downloaded your fitting guide and look forward to the next one in the series. Keep the good work up.😁
You are so welcome! I'm so happy this series is helping you, thank you for fitting along with me
thank you very much. I love your explanations. I bought your guide and with the video support I am confident I will get out of troubled zones.
Yes you can!! Thank you for fitting along with me :)
Thank you so much for this. After a career that included 20 years of heavy lifting and working over my head, my shoulders have changed dramatically and I have been struggling. This should help.
You're so welcome! I hope it helps you too. Thanks for fitting along with me
What a great tutorial! Well presented and easy to follow!
Thank you... and thanks for fitting along with me!
Absolutely brilliant, thank you!
You're very welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me
Yay, you got it up! 🎉 Thank you for this!
Thanks so much! It was touch and go for a little bit (I love my husband… & not just because he can help me out of disasters 💓)
Very helpful. Thanks, Jennifer!
My Pleasure! Thanks for fitting along with me
Very informative video. Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful!n Thanks for fitting along with me
I have thought there ought to be a version of top down center out for tops, Thank you.
My pleasure.... All types of garments should be fitted from the top down because everything below what you are adjusting is affected ... so starting at the top make sense! Top Down Center Out for pants fitting is more than just an order of fitting... It's a theory that any pattern fits any body and that the crotch is not a curve, but a line.... along with some other things. After working with it for a while I realized that "the any pattern on any body" was not attainable for some who were working with pants patterns that did not agree with their body shape. But it is still an amazing method to balance the leg front to back.. and it works 100% of the time if you are fitting loose wide leg pants where the fabric does not touch your body below the full hip!
I like the way you alter patterns to fit and also the like the way you explain the adjustment. I see this PDF is a cost of $5. Do you have a price (or a book) for all of the bodice adjustments?
:) Thanks so much! ...I will be releasing more issues of this pdf series... The total cost at the end will be less than a book. I plan on including all of the info from Part 2 that came out last week, plus a ll the info from Part 3 next week. Hope this helps
Wonderful! Thank you very much.
My pleasure, thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks so much for this tutorial! Thanks for all you do😍
You are so welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank You SO Much!
My Pleasure, Thanks for fitting along with me
Sooooo helpful!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
Amazing work and explanations , thank you!
Glad you liked it... Thanks so much for fitting along with me
Oh yes!
:) Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you so much
You're most welcome Thank you for fitting along with me!
Do you ever use the narrow/wide shoulder method of drawing two diagonal lines and cutting hinges instead of the box method? I just wonder if the two are more or less equivalent depending on the amount of adjustment needed. For length adjustments I’ve recently started using the slide method vs slash and spread. That seems to work better for me than trying to redraw the jagged seam lines. I’m short so I tend to have to take 2 to 4 inches out of patterns depending on where. I’m still using slash/spread for width adjustments as I have yet to quite wrap my head around pivoting.
Thank you for this. It should be very helpful. I’m always trying to figure out if I need a larger size and make a narrow shoulder adjustment or make the smaller size and do a broad shoulder adjustment. The smaller size tends to be more comfortable through the neck and upper bust area, but the shoulders and armscye seem just a little small after I put sleeves in. Yet if I make the larger size the neck and shoulders can seem to be just a little too big. I would say my shoulders are more like yours. They look “square” at first glance, but they do have a gradual slope. And other than a round back adjustment I make, I don’t seem to need much more in the way of slope adjustment.
Sorry, didn’t mean to write a book.
Yes! and you can also use the "adjust in the seam allowance method" to do it as well. I love (and hate) how there are multiple ways to do things.. I will share some options for transferring adjustments to your pattern pieces once we get into the fit muslin... and I'll try to share a couple of options to make those adjustments! I generally recommend picking the size that fits your high bust/shoulders... Then we can let out the key areas below that that need more room! Stay tuned for more on that, thanks for fitting along with me... ps, no worries about the book!
This is very helpful. I do have a question. I have sloped and forward rounded shoulders, so should I wait to adjust the sleeve cap until after I’ve made those adjustments?
Yes, if you have both adjustments to do, you can walk the sleeve into the armhole to see how the cap needs to be adjusted. I will also have options for transferring adjustments from your fit muslin to your paper pattern in the next episode of this series. Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you for creating the video series and pamphlet. I purchased the information but I am already wondering, when you measure across the tank you said from armhole to armhole but you measured only to the edge of your tank. Is that would I should be doing? I’m just trying to start off correctly. I would love to get to the bottom of my body alterations.
My Pleasure! I measured to the edge of my tank because that's where my armhole seam would be if it had sleeves. It's helpful to find a snug tank or tee that has the armhole or strap edge in the right spot! Hope that helps... Thanks for fitting along with me
Hi, I love your videos. Thank you.
Regarding fitting shoulders.. What is the adjustment for an armsyce that is too low/big (sleeves or sleeveless)? Do you add to the bodice portion under the arms to raise it? Or do you pick it up at the shoulder until it is snug enough. Then how do you adjust the sleeve? Thank you in advance. Marilu
Thanks so much! Once you get the muslin on your body and fine-tune the fit of the shoulders, neck and upper back, I will have options for transferring these adjustments to your muslin. There is an adjustment that allows you to make the slope of the shoulder change without changing the length of the armhole. This first...Stay Tuned for that + We will be moving down to the armhole and bust dart, waist and hip next! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks! I’m assuming the same order would apply for knit and woven tops but is it correct that you wouldn’t be able to do pre-muslin changes on a knit top because it would be hard to compare body measurements to pattern measurements given the negative ease.
Yes, same order for knits. If you’re working on a new pattern, I would use an inexpensive knit to test fit. The difference would be that you would need to figure out how much stretch your fabric has and compared to the pattern measurements. I will cover this later in the series! Thanks for fitting along with me!
I applaud this approach, but unfortunately I have a short, blue zone, in particular a low neck back base/erect back which you don't cover.
Thank you for letting me know! I'll do a tutorial dealing with a lower back neck and erect back. Stay tuned and thanks for watching
Here is a question I have. How can we redraft a one piece sleeve, into a two piece sleeve?
That's a great topic! I have it on my list of things to share after I finish this fitting series! Thanks for following along with me
Hi Jan. Do you offer the bodice pattern already printed full size? Many thanks.
I should have that, shouldn't I! Let me think on that... Full size to practice with... or a graded sloper so people can work with their size...
@@JSternDesigns I am an inexperienced sewer, so whichever you think is best :)
🪡🪡🪡🙂🙂🥰🥰
Thanks for watching!