How to Prevent a Pointy Bust Dart (Calling all my D+ Cup Sized Sewing Friends!)
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- čas přidán 20. 07. 2024
- This one is for my D plus cup size girls. If your bust dart ends up creating a pointy shape at the tip of the dart, I have a simple solution for you. See how creating a dart with curved legs gives you a much more natural shape. The curved shape of the legs allow for a large dart intake at the side seam while gracefully shaping the bust cup for a natural fit. If you’re wondering what “dart intake” is… I got you covered! Check out this episode of Fit Tip Tuesday and I’ll explain it all!
00:00 Intro
01:25 What is Dart Intake?
03:15 Why does a bust dart with curved legs create a more natural shape + How to Draft one
05:10 How to create the accurate shape of the side seam between the dart legs
06:41 How to sew a curved bust dart
10:09 How to press a bust dart
12:15 Compare the straight leg bust dart vs a curved leg bust dart
13:00 @SewSewLive is coming to @JSternDesigns for a special episode of Fab Fit Friday
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Thanks for not only showing the method of making a curved dart, but also showing the difference it makes.
My pleasure! I think that was the fun part :) Thanks for watching
Thanks, this is great tip!! Another tip is to move the tip of the dart, 1, 2 or more inches away from the apex point... larger the bust, larger the distance between the tip and apex point..
Yes that is so true... the larger the bust cup the farther you can move the tip of the dart away from the apex. Thanks for fitting along with me
Amazing video!!! I don't have a large bust but I am just mindblown by the whole 'sew off the end of the dart and secure it back to the dart intake' tip... I've been tying little knots in my dart tips for years! I also can't help but wonder if I can use this concept to try to curve a French dart on both ends into a slight 'S' curve using your method here. I've tried to do it before and had zero luck. You are SUCH a treasure thank you so much for all you do!
Thank you so much! I finally understand curved darts! Total gamechanger! You and your videos are awesome❤❤❤❤
Happy to help! I'm excited for you to give them a try, thanks for fitting along with me
A great description and demonstration. Another subtle change with significant impact!
Thanks so much... (honestly, I should have included this with Fit Tip Tuesday) Thank you for watching
Great demo, Jen! I’m not a double d cup, but I like the shaping this provides, and the ability to avoid that dreaded point…..
Thanks so much! ...It does create a nice shape on any size bust dart. Thanks for fitting along with me
Great video, much needed by many of us.
Glad it was helpful!
Great to know, as usual, Jen. Another tip for my memory bank!❤
Yay! Thanks so much for watching
Love this explanation! Thank you!
So happy to hear! Thanks for fitting along with me
Great video! Thanks!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching
This is so helpful. Thank you so much !!!
My pleasure...Thanks for watching
Thank You!!! Great Information!!!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
Ahhh.. another sewing tip for my arsenal ! Thanks for showing the details, Jen.
You are so welcome Caryl...Thank you for fitting along with me
Thank you, I’m going to try this!
My pleasure... Thanks for watching
Excellent video! You demonstrated just what you are explaining. Those of us who have this problem really needed this video. Thank you!!
Thanks so much! and I'm so happy this helps you. Thank you for fitting along with me
This also works for pants and skirt darts as well. A rounded curve is also flattering for flat chested busts. When I do it, it creates a small illusion of having a bust. Same thing for pant or skirt darts for someone like me is flat. The curve gives the vision of not being so flat.
Yes they do!! ...I love that you're using curved darts to help give your garments shape! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you for saying this! I have a very significant difference between my waist and hip measurement and really struggle to get it well fitting without having an odd peak. I will be trying this on my next pair of trousers!
I saw a very quick YT vid about this years ago - it didnt have much detail, and ever since I've tried in vain to find more info - thanks so much for this Jen!! Pressing tips also very useful. Cara :)
Glad I could help! Thanks for fitting and pressing along with me
Thank you for sharing this. I’m a G cup and this will help.
You’re welcome 😊 Thanks for fitting along with me
This dart design content is totally new to me. Thank you!
Glad to hear it! and thanks for following along with me
Recently made a mock up with darts in the bodice. I was really careful about tapering and ironing with my ham, but once I tried it on, they were k kind of pointy.(Dd here). So I'm going to make an adjustment to my pattern and try a new mockup out.
Big bust darts can be tricky!! ... Hope this works for you... if you find that you have too much fabric outside the dart (because of the curved dart legs)... Try curving the dart darts closer to the tip vs. marking the middle of the dart legs to create the curve. Thanks for fitting along with me!
Wonderful demonstration.
Thanks so much! Thanks for watching
Thank you for this method. I am DD and need this technique
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
Wonderful thank you.
My pleasure! Thanks for watching
Thankyou ❤ Having a narrow high bust bust a very large cup size, I’d all but given up on side darts in favour of princess seams.Gonna practice this forthwith.
I think this can help!! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks so much for the fantastic tutorial. I just sewed in my bust darts in a corduroy shacket, and the pointy darts were discouraging. I sat down to ease my sorrows with a sewing video, and this tutorial popped up. Problem solved!
Glad it helped! ...Especially on a more stable fabric like corduroy that would make the pointy shape more obvious... Thanks for fitting along with me
Hallelujah! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
You are so welcome Thanks for fitting along with me
I am glad you made this video. It prevents me from having to make it to answer a question for one of my viewers. I will direct them to this one instead.
Thank you @kevinsews !... and thank you for stopping by. Hope you have a Happy Thanksgiving
@@JSternDesigns Same to you and your family!
I am a DD so this is going to be very beneficial.
Yay! Thanks for fitting along with me
Hi. I think you have a God given gift. Thank you...
:) My pleasure (and I thank the lord every day for all the things!!) Thanks for watching
Great pressing tips.
Thanks Pat!
Thank you so much! That is exactly what I was getting.....a cone shape, not my bust shape.People were telling me many things to try but they didn't have a G cup and thought I was sewing it wrong.They didn't comprehend the issues with a 45°bust dart. I have excellent sewing skills if I do say so myself. I learned 'The Bishop Method" way back in high school so a good base of tried and true skills. I never had issues sewing darts before when I had a smaller cup size. I have tried this before but just guessing at the curve. This time I will measure specifically like your demo. I am so excited that finally something will work! How far from the apex do you recommend ending the dart? I have heard 2.5 inches for larger cups but that shortens the dart leg amplifying the need for a curve. It makes sense to lengthen the dart leg and do a shallower curve.
I think if you were curving the dart too close to the tip of the dart, the shape would be a little too drastic... that's why I find the middle of the legs to position the middle of the curve. I have tried pushing the tips of my bust darts back more than 1 1/2" from my apex. I did not get great results doing that. I find that my sweet spot is 1" - 1 1/4" away. And, I agree, the longer dart legs will need less curve to close the dart smoothly at the tip! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you, I will try 1"-1.25" from apex.I will report back after Thanksgiving when I get some time to sew.@@JSternDesigns
Hi Jennifer: I think the other end of the ham would give you a better curve. I guess it all depends on the shape of the dart though. Thanks for the demo.
:) I can probably find a few spots on the ham that I can get the dart to lay smoothly on the surface. I'm going to try the other end next time I'm pressing! Thanks for watching
Very helpful. Several of my clients are the D cup size, but I thought ending the dart about 1 inch from apex would solve the pointy dart problem.
That definitely helps too... The idea of the curved dart legs allow you to taper a very large dart more gradually to the tip of the dart creating a softer shape. Thanks for watching
I thought it would too, until I saw the dart "nipples" to the sides of my apex!
Grazie!!!❤
My Pleasure! Thanks for watching
Thanks!! Can you comment on how this compares with a princess seam?
This is a method to make a bust dart fit better on larger cup/dart sizes... A princess seam top is also a great option for larger cup sizes because there are more ways to fit this styleline to your shape! Thanks for watching
I love this, would this work on a large waist dart?
Thanks! Technically, you could use this technique on waist darts... but it may create a curved shape that's not flattering. What you can do is soften the pointed shape of the middle of the waist dart where the legs meet at the center (widest part of the waist dart). This will create a shape that does not "stress" the fabric. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me, thanks for watching
I recently redid some pointy darts, only curving in at the point, and they still aren't great. I wish I'd seen this firstm
:) sorry for the timing! ...Thanks for watching
Thank you for this. I was aware of curved darts but had never achieved a satisfactory result. Does the technique wherever the dart is ?. Side bust darts are not my most flattering dart. My preferences are french of waist darts
It is also true that bust darts might not be the best choice for your figure or for the design of the pattern. I think playing with them on the pattern you're working with is the best idea... If you want to give the bust dart idea another go, maybe try deepening or reducing the amount of curve the dart legs have... You may need to customize the shape to agree with your shape... Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Thank you for your reply.
@@JSternDesigns
I have seen this dart menthol in the book by Palmer/Pletscch but seeing demonstrated was great. I have a 7 inch differences from my upper bust and full bust. Thanks again,
@@clarepurtill1790 I have a 7 inch difference too. Seems no one has addressed this so succinctly before.
Hi Jennifer, I got a nice rounded shape after sewing a curved side bust dart, but now it seems there's too much room since the dart width got decreased towards the dart point because of the curve. Do you know a fix for that? Thanks!
It's funny that you ask me this right now.. I was working on my sloper and I noticed the same thing when I curved my dart... So I started the curve at the mid point of the dart legs down to the tip that was more subtle and created a nice shape without taking out too much dart intake. I think the fabric you're working with affects how much you can curve the dart legs.... I did them on a soft rayon challis and I didn't notice the issue... on more stable muslin fabric it was more obvious! Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns Thanks for responding, yes I did notice it worked differently depending on the fabric!