18th century Menswear: Hand Sewing Breeches
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- čas přidán 5. 12. 2020
- In the 1700s, breeches were a regular part of a mens suit of clothes. But, constructing them today can seem like one of the most daunting parts in a historical sewing project! They are complex in patterning, fitting, and construction. And the variations of styles can seem endless! But rather than getting tangled up in pocket options, let's take a look at some of the universal elements to all pairs of breeches.
Important Tips:
1. Make a mock-up. But don't worry about fitting it "perfectly". Odds are your fabric will have different stretch. So leave some extra seam allowance on the inseams for safety!
2. Don't add seam allowance to your pattern. Draw the shape on the fabric and add it on there. You need your stitching lines.
3. BASTE EVERYTHING. Don't expect pins to hold things smoothly or safely. They are temporary. Basting will keep things secure and flat for as long as you need. You'll thank yourself when you don't accidentally stab your hand or have an important pin fall out half way through the project.
4. Reinforce. Don't expect your one layer of fabric to do all the work. Nor should you just line the entire thing to strengthen. Interfacings, linings, and extra pieces should be applied with thought so as to be successful and reduce bulk. We aren't machine bag-lining this thing for a reason.
5. Stitching should show! We want to see your work! And it serves to help reinforce your garments weak points.
6. Leave enough space in your clothing that you can move. This is especially apparent in breeches and trousers. You need to be able to sit and squat down.
7. First project at this level? Use wool. It is forgiving and has enough natural stretch and give that you won't have to obsess. It's also fairly strong (so long as you leave enough allowance for fraying). Can't do wool due to allergies? Try a cotton twill or denim (yes, denim. Des Nîmes- From Nîmes). I chose a woven silk, rather than a taffeta, to give myself some ease.
8. Really scared? Make a pair of underbreeches first! They're out of a plain linen and have fewer complicated elements, but you can essentially make a useable mock up this way! They're great for warmth, wool allergies, or keeping your outer breeches clean.
Burnley & Trowbridge workshops: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/page...
(they're also where all of the fabric, thread, button moulds, and buckles came from for this project)
Socials
Instagram: / silk_and_buckram
Tiktok: / cloche_call
🖼 Fashion Plate: www.rijksmuseum.nl/nl/collect...
🖼 Sailor: www.britishmuseum.org/collect...
🖼 Suit: collections.lacma.org/node/21...
🖼 Kneeband: www.meg-andrews.com/item-deta...
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com) - Jak na to + styl
It is a universally accepted truth that secret pockets are for snacks
What else could they be for, I couldn't fathom
Snacks and possibly small good luck charms 💜
This is why all my clothing must have many pockets!
Definitely
@Molly Smith - Mmmm, candy watches!
Ooh. I must admit, seeing a woman in such beautiful breeches is setting my little gay heart aflutter! I need more androgynous history bounding in my life.
Well damn. Seeing that is making my solidly straight little heart flutter. who knew that silk breeches are universally hot ; D
Sometimes the comments are just as good , if not better than the content. Lol
Nicole can manspread like the best of them. I LOLed at the end of her video because it was so perfect!
straight gramma but, loving the whole tilda swinton feel. fantastic
It looks ugly and bad on her.
I feel like I've learned so much about dresses and 'womens' wear but almost nothing about 'mens'.
So thank you for teaching about 'mens' wear. We need more people like you.
This indeed! Definitely need to catch up the ratio of men's to women's historical dress tutorials and informationals.
Bernadette banner also has a video on her channel about a men’s/ gender neutral “pirate” shirt which is very good if you want the whole ensemble
I have a couple of videos on 18th century menswear! I'm new to making videos but have plans for so many more.
Marius Lee, The Welsh Viking, and Paulo Samu also have videos on menswear.
@@taylregene I’m not familiar with a whole lot either but just in case you haven’t found them yet, here are the ones I follow: Pinsent Tailoring, Gilbert Dolthalion, and Old Guy Vibes. Hopefully I can add more to this list in the near future!
Indeed.
gay awakening 2 just happened thanks queen
Same
I mean... yeah 😳🙈
Yep. I just made a comment about this, saying that my little gay heart is aflutter. Because... wow.
Mood
*fans self* Same.
"I can only assume snacks"
Nicole, I love you! 😂💝
the video and people in comments: "menswear"
me: vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians
Sees Nicole looking ultra-cool in britches - "I should make britches"
Sees Nicole painstakingly craft them in so much detail - "Maybe in a year or two when I upgrade my skills"
Sees Nicole continue to painstakingly craft them - "Wait, I don't wear knee-length pants anyway. No britches for me!"
You look so cool, Nicole!
Yeah, that wasn't intimidating AT ALL. (goes to lay down until the feeling goes away.)
It's only fabric. TRY IT. You could wear them with birkenstocks if nothing else ;)
@@niamhybeagable You brave soul! No fear of cutting for you!
Just when I start to think I might have learned enough to try a new project, I watch one of Nicole's videos and I'm totally lost.
😕
@@michellecornum5856 I can recommend to just go for it. Will it be fun at first? Hell no. You will fail hard. And fail a lot. But If you manage to get through that? It will get easier. And after you tried again and again and overcome it? Nothing can beat that feeling of really having accomplished something.
Can we take a moment to appreciate the absolute Gentleman Jack -esque glamour of the thumbnail!!
I swoon!
I deeply appreciate the focus on menswear because I find it often neglected on historical CZcams, and I just adore this in-depth video. I beg that you make more because one everyone looks great in any sort of “gendered” wear but also it’s helpful to have a better understanding of tailoring since a lot of pattern neglect smaller men like me.
Tailoring is one of my favorite things, so you'll definitely see a lot more menswear in the future!
@@michellecornum5856 Having watched Abby, I'm not quite sure that's a method she goes for (chaos, sure, but still refined). But the "get the thing done" is always a valid option depending on the circumstances! I did plenty of that in theatre.
@@michellecornum5856 I hope you’re talking about my original antiques, but I am happy to show you my handwork.
@@AbbyCox Hahahaha. Yes, Abby, the original antiques.
That shot at the end of you lounging in your breeches! I am getting very strong Georgette Heyer Regency vibes. You know the novels: "Young heiress rebels against dreadful relatives, cuts off her hair and dresses as a boy to evade pursuit, shenanigans with a handsome young Baronet ensue"
It's a strong look, is what I'm saying.
hotdamn, NIcole, not even a second in and you already there serving looks *fans herself*
she got me at the thumbnail!
this might be the sexiest outfit I've ever seen in my life....
So many literary references to tailoring, wearing, and extracting oneself from breeches now make sense.
The comments on this video:
- STOP IM ALREADY GAY
- Magical scissors
- Stunning stitch-work
I learned SOOO much! Also you look so sexy and powerful in this outfit - it really suits you! I really hope you go into making courtsuits as well - I want to learn EVERYTHING from you!
@ACZcams User court suits are gay, folks, we heard it here first
Troll in the dungeon.
@ACZcams User that’s an unusually ignorant response for this channel. Generally the commenters here have more class than you evidently do. I’d advise going back under the rock you crawled out from under.
@ACZcams User lol sweetie, I’d rather have “appalling syntax” than your appalling mindset and lack of manners. What “team” a person plays for is NONE of your business. Please just go away
Bless, your insults are from the 90s 😂
These breeches with your Tailored Jacket would make an interesting combo.
Plus I had a small heartstop when I saw you take a scissors to make the buttonholes. Those things are scary when you don't notice the space that prevents them from cutting all the way through. :}
Me toooooo
I was literally screaming in my head and when I figure it out I was "That's a cool pair of scissors!!"
i'm a fencer and we have to wear breeches, so it's super interesting to see their lineage. My university club used to make lots of jokes about wearing ours out for socials but we never did get round to it... 😂
Be the change you want to see in the world!
do it
Eeeeeek, I want to see fencing in breeches! I want to just see people fencing in general! Where can I find fencing content please
Lupa Kajsa Lisa search fencing competition into CZcams.
The shots of you modeling those breeches could absolutely be a thirst trap tiktok.... Also, very stoked to see some "mens" garments!
I was actually shocked to see how much extra room you needed to leave in the garment for movement. We definitely got way too spoiled by stretchy fabrics. Also, I love the tips in your description bar.
I hope more people find you soon, because the content is top notch quality!
The sound that those scissors make is just perfection
I just love this video! Once upon a time back in the early 80’s, I loved the breeches look so much, I talked a couple of friends into whacking off the bottoms of our wide-leg jeans and made little knee bands. We called them “knickers” and not breeches, but I do believe that was my first-ever attempt to achieve a somewhat historical silhouette. Now watching this video I remember the joy it brought my little revolutionary soul to rebel against early 80’s in favor of 18th century!
I have found the only video on CZcams with exactly zero dislikes and honestly it makes perfect sense that it’s this one
I'm so glad you're showing men's historical garments. I'm trans and trying to figure out how to make men's historical clothes fit my body is daunting. You make me feel like it's possible!
"Hidden in your waistband for who knows what...I can only assume snacks" :) such a great line!!
How about hiding money in the waistband?
Watching you sew is so zen-like, I fall into a little trance.
I must have all the breeches and all the snacks.
I love how well you explain the mechanics that go into constructing a pair of breeches (or anything for that matter). I really like learning more about making menswear
I now know why you used the term “daunting”. I’ve sewn innumerable pairs and types of pants-WHOA. A+ for all those mitered corners!
Anyone else low-key crushing on Nicole in breeches? Just me? 😶
Low-key? Yeah, that's just you. The rest of us have passed out on the floor at her feet.
I'm with Michelle, there's nothing low key about it.
Yeah IM just over here crying in gay so 😅🤷🏻♀️
The gays going wild in the comments makes my heart take off. This project turned out absolutely incredible.
Your hand sewing skills are so elegant and precise omg. I just kept watching thinking "omg that seam is SO BEAUTIFUL" but like with every seam lol.
Hard same here
Your hand stitching is just incredible!
16:32 OMG 😳 Those stitches!
YES to women in historical menswear 😍😱
What is these magical button hole scissors? I must know!
Witch! How did you know I was researching this yesterday wishing for a video exactly like this. Thank you sew much.
The sound of sharp scissors snipping through fabric is just devine
Loving the look you're going for! As for the video, I'd have a humble request: Would it be possible to show the cut-out pieces (or the pattern pieces) in their future arrangement before you start sewing? I'm a beginner at sewing and had some trouble keeping up with what you were doing and would appreciate the visual aid of how it all goes together.
Yes! A pair of men's breeches has been on my list of things to make for awhile now, and this was so helpful. These are fantastic, and thank you for the video!
As a half-time-linguist, it was really nice to see where the term "breeches" comes from. And it's always a delight to see the similarities between English and German terminology. In medieval times you would call your pants "bruche" or "brouche" which comes down to the same ethymological source of breaking something. Today we call them "Hosen" in German. And it's funny because we can use both the singular of the word ("die Hose") and the plural ("die Hosen" / "ein Paar Hosen" = "a pair of trousers") to refer to one garment. The singular form is more common for colloquial language, though.
And, since we are already in the realm of singular and plural forms for stuff that is actually one whole thing, I would like to state that glasses are a word that I've only come across in a singular form in German. We call them "die Brille" (and in this case "die" does not mark a plural but a feminin noun). All other languages I've studied so far (English, French and Russian) refer to glasses as two seperate - yes - glasses that are held together with some wire. The French "lunettes" is actually quite cute. It means "little moons" (which always makes me think of Dumbledore).
But enough. You're here for sewing content. I just wanted to pour out some of my nerdiness into the world.
*Sweats in bisexual*
Great video! I didn't realize how much work goes into a garment that seems so simple! These came out fabulous!
ok for real why is the production quality SOOOO high!! you look like you're in a documentary and i cannot get enough
Alright, I am a newcomer to your channel, but may I ask - could you please make a video on men's fashion in 19th century and men's corsets? I am a huge fan of that stuff and I am very sad that historical men's fashion is so much less popular than it is for women, especially regarding corsets.
(Also, that was probably the hottest opening to a CZcams video I have seen in all my ages on the internet.)
Got me confused and im not even mad. This is nice ❤️🌈
You are one piece of garment closer to Joseph Ducreux, that's pleasing.
the evenness of the stitches at 16:34..... looks like a machine it's so even and perfect, i can't ...
I'm a tailoring apprentice with my grandfather who has been a tailor since 1968, And I have become curious about the development of this type of garment. Possibly in a month or two I made myself a Regency outfit. I already have a notion of how to make the pants. As a man who loves clothing from 1800 to 1930, I appreciate it :)
HECK YES!! 18th century menswear is my very favourite thing in the world and there are so so few videos on it. They're beautiful, and I'm so excited to see the rest of the suit!
I was thinking of you when this video started ! :)
Oh, but that is a gorgeous pair of breeches (and outfit) in general!
I've always been fascinated by historical menswear, but unfortunately the vast majority of content creators focuses on women's wear exclusively.
So glad, I discovered you!
Swooning over these breeches and how awesome they look on you! Beautiful
I wish that someone would modernize many older fashions like this. I'd love to see more men and women wearing older styles of breeches and waistcoats. They're just such a solid tailored look. It's gorgeous, these look fantastic, and with the loose tunic on top it would look incredible on most body types as well.
Ah! I was so excited to see this video, my hands actually started shaking! I've found so little on historical menswear in general; from patterns, to blog posts/guides, to videos, despite diligent and frequent searches (though perhaps I'm not looking in the right places), so seeing this on my homepage was a delight.
Watching you sit so masculinely made my monocle pop
Oh thank you, Nicole! Making my own trousers has been a (now) two-year exercise in banging my head against a wall and this clarified a lot of things :-). Liked and subscribed :-D.
Your hand stitching is beautiful.
Yes. sir. Beautiful is an understatement, but I don't know of a more precise word.
My mezzo-soprano heart loves this! Wonderfully done Nicole! 🙌🏽
Mezzo trouser represent!
@@SewBiased Yaaaas!! 🙌🏽🙌🏽
Bring back the breeches, everyone wear them. They look so damn fly.
You cut a very dashing figure in those breeches. It was a wonderfully informative video that I'm sure I will look to as a reference and I enjoyed your insight into hand stitching in particular, even if it was only a short mention it has made me think about hand stitching more often myself.
Your hand stitching is beautiful. I am now watching all your videos!
the other day i put on my 18th century men's shirt (thank you, bernadette!) and a pair of white pants, and from that minute on i decided i needed a pair of breeches. there's so much content about women's historical fashion out there, which is amazing! i love it all! but i wish there was just as much content for men's historical fashion. my pipe dream of a historical fashion project is a late 18th-early 19th century british naval captain's dress uniform, which is far in the distant future of my sewing skill, but seeing projects and videos like this only make me more excited to learn!
Your breeches turned out great and the shirt & breeches look is great on you.
Le Sigh. I love your videos sooo much. And that button hole cutter blew my mind, time to shop.
I have been looking for how to make men's 18th-century clothing for ages, and I might just be looking in the wrong places, but other than Reconstructing History's patterns, this is the first I've seen of someone properly talking about the breaches! Thank you so much 😄
This! I am wanting to make a bunch of these including some leather ones for working on cars, construction, and gardening. I pretty much live in under the knee knickers because I hate above the knee shorts.
By “knickers” I guess you mean knickerbockers and not underpants?
@@ragnkja Yes, knickers as opposed to dirty knickers. I'm guessing the term is regional. My mother used to make me below the knee garments when I was really little and she always called them knickers, so that is the term I know them by.
Just looked up the Music Man lyrics for "Trouble" and you're right he referres to them as knickerbockers. 😁
@@lieselemay
They’re called “knickers” in Norwegian as well, but in English I’ve only ever seen it in a British English context, and only in the “underpants” meaning.
@@ragnkja We have always been rebels in our family. 😂
Liese Lemay I grew up calling them knickers too.
In high school and college I was always looking for a pattern but the few I found were not what I was looking for. I took to wearing capris and rolling them up, still not what I wanted but..
As a riding instructor i feel the need to hand sew my own tailored riding attire. You know. For a e s t h e t i c s
I’ve also had the urge.
That’s the most perfect hand stitching I’ve ever seen 💙
For period men's clothing i really enjoy the cutter's practical guide. I recently made some knickerbockers to my exact side by following the directions, and it's totally time accurate because it's from the period.
You are a brave woman, Nicole. Such a project had killed me.
I was unable to understand most of what Nicole was talking about when she was putting in those pockets but boy it was amazing to watch. Those back stitches were basically like sewing machine evenness....freakishly perfect
I looked through the comments and am shocked to see nobody mentioned horse-riding. Trousers for horse-riding are called breeches up till today. What makes them different from trousers are the reinforced panels on the insides of the thighs. I used to ride horses in the past and I soon realised I would wear them everywhere and all the time if I could. My legs are shaped in the way that the whole of my thighs touch each other when I stand or walk, so I cannot wear skirts or shorts at all, not even in summer. Typical trousers, including the sturdiest pairs of jeans rip at the seam between the thighs in up to a week or two. That's mostly the reason I got interested in sewing in the first place, since nothing store-bought seems remotely suitable for my build. I'm so sad the art of sewing riding breeches out of non-elastic fabrics seems all but lost now. I really liked the reinforced seams you shown on your video, what I miss is the way to implement the inner thigh panels in the pattern. No amount of seam reinforcement would suffice with my legs rubbing each other with every step, especially since I love walking everyday for hours and hours. I think I'll just have to head your advice and learn while making them :D
My enby heart is full. These are great; thanks for the awesome video!
All the literature of women dressing up as boys to serve in the Navy or whatever from this time. Makes so much more sense now. A woman would have had the tailoring skills to buy a pair of men's breeches and then adjust them to fit her body so that no one would know the difference.
Also because it happened IRL and several women were awarded pensions for their Navy service even when women weren't supposed to be in the Navy during the Great age of sail.
this is a fascinating intersection of historical fashion with Gundam Wing costume design for me
Thank you for the shout out Nicole! Love this video!!
LOL Ahhh Yes! The Good 'Ol 18th. Century "Hidden Snack Pockets"! THAT Cracked me up! :D I'm going to use that! :D
I’d love to dress like this all the time. Regency men’s fashion is so beautiful. The embroidery in the jackets is beautiful a lot of times.
This silk is such a beautiful & ethereal color. Would breeches usually have been in the ivory/beige family or were they sometimes more brightly colored?
Historical anime says yes.
Greys, palest pink, salmon, robin's egg,
Historical clothing is an obsession! I spent my senior year trying to make a pair of breeches and a great coat instead of working on my senior thesis 😅😓
Wow... I am just in awe of your hand sewing. The patience you must have😱 Very well done. What an inspiration
The nuggets of wisdom you drop so casually are life-changing. Thank you for sharing what you know. I’ve struggled through many garments, and breezed through others. A good teacher , guiding principles, and proper technique can make the difference between a struggle and a pleasure in making garments. You are awesome, thank you!!!
i just love all of your perfect little tiny stitches, all in straight rows. i wish i had taken in more knowledge on sewing and techniques back in my younger years, when things stuck better. i enjoyed this very much.
Goodness..! Men sure looked breathtakingly handsome in those historical clothes..😢👌
Nicole handsewing: look at my flawless work!
Me handsewing: how the heck did my string knot like that?!
These breeches look fabulous! Both on their own as on you! :o
Thank you for another really interesting and informative video. I have often wondered how breeches were constructed to allow enough movement for sitting, dancing etc. Ride apparel has fascinated for me for a long time and I wonder how different gentleman's riding breeches would be compared to every day breeches.
Beautifully made. They look like the perfect fit and very comfortable to wear while relaxing in your drawing room! It's clear from the delicate nature of these garments that no-one wearing them would be doing any manual labour. The gentleman's shirt is a perfect match too!
Got multiple colonial Williamsburg commercials during this video, ad game is on point in the CZcams today.
Very much enjoyed watching all the tips and tricks for sewing such a complicated garment. The diaper bum is necessary in non stretchy pants... it just is.
Menswear and tailoring and breeches, oh my!
Others have already neatly put many points, so I shall stick to two:
- I need a pair of buttonhole snips in my life and would love a source
- hot damn you look amazing in that beautifully made outfit
Mundial buttonhole scissor, wawak dot com
AGAIN. I learn something new: I never knew what those little scissors with the notch were for! 🤯
Seriously! I LOVE this channel!!
I really enjoy watching you work. It's so quiet and confident. I learned a lot, too. Thanks!
The button hole scissors were so neat
Oh, Nicole, I’m doffing my (invisible) hat to you. Long have I been lusting for a pair of breeches such as you have just created. What were as cis females are going to use the falls for is a question for the ages but it’s fun-and a big reason why I want said britches. Love a fall-front! I’m not nearly as advanced at drafting my own patterns as you so I may have to settle for a purchased pattern-unless you would send me a copy of yours. Right now I’m making another shirt because a girl can’t have too many “pirate” shirts. Have you considered welting your pockets with leather? So happy for your new wardrobe addition.
I love the word education. It's cool to see the history of our words & how they've changed in time to what we say today. Great job on the breeches too. 👍
I love this video! I've been wanting to make a pair of these since Pirates of the Caribbean came out forever ago. 😍 I was just never 100% certain how to put them together. (Though I did have a basic understanding. That waistband pocket hanging out below the waistband was something I never thought of. It makes so much more sense than the itty bitty pockets I've seen others do) I've collected hundreds of images (costuming and museum photos) as well as a few patterns, but this video definitely gives an understanding of how it should all fit. Thank you.
Side note: is it just me or did anyone else question how well that odd shaped, straightish crotch curve seam on the pattern would conform to the human body? I can understand the U shape of modern patterns, but seeing that design in older ones always threw me. 😅
That thumbnail tho. 😍
Those are some serious shears. By damn, you did it. I am in awe. Bravo.
I hope to someday see the full outfit come together!
I'd love to see a timeline of breeches/trousers and how they changed over time - like the necessary bubble butt? When does that go away? How does it go away, changes in pattern piece shapes? Different materials?
Oh my gosh! This video is an exercise in some of the most beautiful hand stitching I’ve ever seen 😱! The finished breeches are absolutely stunning and suit you perfectly. You are working that butch energy at the end haha! I would love to watch a hand sewing tips and tricks video from you- especially about hand sewing buttonholes! Loving your videos!
Ahh yess, I'm so absolutely excited to watch this.
Absolutely love these. And they look so awesome on you!! This was a delicious treat.