Making an 1890s Ball Gown Copied from a Real Victorian Antique
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
- Last year I fell in love with an antique Victorian bodice which just begged to be recreated with all of it missing parts restored. I gathered supplies and spent the last three months researching and sewing, pulling a pattern and construction notes from the original and gradually uncovering its story. As it turns out, the bodice was full of discoveries and secrets! It's a wonderful example of the Victorian fashions of the very end of the 19th century as they prepared to rapidly change in the coming years.
The bodice itself is lined with a cotton brocade, has a mid layer of mint green silk taffeta, and is covered in a finely pleated or gathered silk gauze. All of the edges were carefully turned back and faced with silk ribbon; some of the same ribbon was used for the boning channels. In order to hide the closure system the bodice fastens at center front invisibly and has an extra front that overlaps and hooks along the shoulders, down around the armscye, and on the side seam. Though wear is visible on the interior of the bodice with sweat stains, the exterior has only minor damage to the silk gauze. A few tiny pulls and splits along the folds are all that show. Clearly this bodice was worn (and altered) but was done so with care. It likely was worn around 1898-1899 in its various forms.
All of this was made for an event in New York. After planning a small trip with Abby to see the Met exhibit and friends, the group grew to include others from all over (originally planning to meet with an international friend who could not make it). A dinner was suggested and handed over to Dandy Wellington, who took the challenge and created an absolutely divine event in partnership with Hendricks Gin at Gage & Tollner. Thankfully we were able to shape a safe and conscious dinner and the result was an amazing meeting of people. I am so glad I was able to spend the week (or just the evening) with such wonderful friends!
A few days later (and a few mended spots on the gowns) Abby and I were also able to do a photoshoot with Rose Callahan at "Westminster Shabbey". I cannot wait to show everyone the result of her absolute magic with the camera (and a smoke machine).
Supplies:
Taffeta and Satin Ribbons: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/
Gauze and Ribbon: www.dharmatrading.com/
Satin Ribbons: www.etsy.com/shop/SewVintagely
Pleating: internationalpleating.com/
Antique Bodice: blackcatclothiers.com/
Event Attendees:
@AbbyCox @bernadettebanner @Costuming_Drama @NotYourMommasHistory @DandyWellington @Sewstine @AngelaClaytonCostumery @NamiSparrow @MorganDonner
/ dandywellington
/ youngmrflanagan
/ sewstine
/ angelacostumery
/ highheelpaws
/ yang_cheon_shik
/ notyourmommashistory
/ raissabretana
/ abbyelyn
/ mikewillcutyou
/ namisparrow
/ kenna.sews
/ erikaalamode
/ costuming_drama
/ labelladonnahistory
/ morgandonner
/ gage.and.tollner
/ hendricksginus
/ rcallahanphoto
/ westminstershabbey
Research images from 1898/1899 Delineators
babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?i...
babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?i...
babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?i...
Socials
Instagram: / silk_and_buckram
Tiktok: / cloche_call
Patreon: / nicolerudolph
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com)
00:00 Introduction
01:48 Research
10:47 Pattern & Prep
12:24 Bodice Shell
21:17 Gauze
23:31 Sleeves
28:58 Skirt
30:09 Final Reveal - Jak na to + styl
"The stitching to include it is really bad"
1800's woman who never thought anyone would see her bad stitching: 👁👄👁
Nicole: the stitching on the collar is terrible and the brooch doesn't match
Ghost of previous owner: T H E A U D A C I T Y😤😤😤
32:33 Seeing Sewstine and Bernadette next to each other just seconds after seeing Abby Cox in that gauzy creation of hers put the cherry on top of an already amazing video.
“I have nowhere to wear it.” SEMANTICS. It is gorgeous. So glad you had the dinner to really wear it! And that whole group is basically my subscription list.
Same!
Agree!
Mine too!
I thought Abby’s was the prettiest thing I had ever seen…now there are two! I’m completely in love with both dresses and am very much looking forward to the pictures. If there was ever a style (or two!) that perfectly embodied my ideal “aesthetic” it would this. Thank you very much for sharing.
😀👍🏻 and the 😀 are ❤️
Repeating what I have said elsewhere: the opening minutes of this are full of green flags for research- you continue to be the only historical fashion CZcamsr I would ever cite on an academic paper.
I actually did cite her in my last academic paper. I did corsetry from 1899-1910… and used the one on different corsets on the same body. Also used Abby and Bernadette.
I second this!
Agree. The sources are consistently solid and the hypotheses are not presented as fact. One of the few channels I still engage with.
I love it when antique pieces have traces of such relatable human behaviour like the idea of buying it with the collar so you can have ~options~ later. Makes history feel that much closer and human, you know?
Yes indeed the labour and fabric is so much, that a shift in the neckline detailing is really worth iit given the investment in the rest.
Those sleeves were absolutely BAFFLING to look at and I can’t believe they were just three rows of gathers ^_^ THEYRE AMAZING I can’t believe I have to use this sleeve design for a future project XD
That batwing skirt was absolutely the perfect choice!
The outcome (both Nicole and Abby) was classically beautiful. While I do enjoy modern designers who go a little outside of the box, well-made gowns that fit perfectly will always be in demand and wonderful to see. BTW, seeing a group of people enjoy a party seems to be far more of an earlier, distantly remembered time than any of the styles worn to the gathering.
I am resisting the urge to LEAN ON THE SHIFT KEY because oh my god PLEATS. So finicky, and you did such an incredible job with them, the finished product is otherworldly. The SKIRT. Those SLEEVES. PLEEEEATS 👌✨
Ok... now I want a batwing skirt that's short enough to pass in real life.
And the bodice... such great detail in construction and such a glorious result!
Dear god that finesse of pulling the pin out while feeding the fabric under the presser foot in one fluid motion. Absolutely flawless. That is years of perfect practice.
It came out gorgeous!
And then at the end I was trying to see how many people I could recognize without looking them up! lol
Same!
Your commitment to in deepth research and precision is really extraordinary. The bodice and the whole dress came out gorgeous. Amazing
Nicole: creates a pattern does lining, and chiffon overlay, pin tucks, darts, ruffles
Me: still misting up the courage to start my Regency chemise that I’ve had the fabric for 2 months 🪡🧵👀
Still trying to find the courage for my Regence corset…year three and counting. You’ll get there. And so will I. Cheers
😅🤣 me too!
Still getting to replacing the table in my room so I can get started on a wool coat, and I had the wool for almost a year.
It will get done at some point. I bought fabric five years ago and finally made a dress out of it this year. 😂
literally joined viking reenactment over 6 months ago and haven't started making kit yet.
The whole gang got together for a fancy Victorian evening. How nice!
I'm not even a minute in, but
THIS MAKEUP, daaaaamn
This is stunning and I love all the little details you find in the original and replicate. The sleeves just blew my mind. They look so complex and its just gathered in 3 rows!
The two coordinating gowns are so lovely together and I can definitely see why they were such a fashion statement back in the day. Watching the videos of both you and Abby sewing all that delicate lacy frilly goodness together almost makes me want to make one. Way out of my sewing league, lol, but maybe one day I'll work up to it!
You could not look more elegant! I can see artists of the period following you around begging you to sit for them.
OMG...is that Brenedette?/and Angela's signature green hair. Epic. Also lovely dress😍😍
Nicole's enthusiasm in examining and researching the bodice is delightful and infectious!
Beautiful work
The rustling of that fabric as you turn in the skirt...lovely! The color is gorgeous.
Wow is it possible to love the inside of clothing as much as the out
The building that the Kirby and Nicholson's store was in is still standing. Moreover, the shop in the space is still a clothing store (Barbour - Yes, the waxed jacket retailer.). I just looked at it because I live in Manchester and saw they were in St Anne's square (I love that square, go shopping there ever time I go downtown..)
That’s so neat! Thank you for sharing that :)
If you Google the store name, there is a period image of the store front too!
In that one shot on the couch you look like you should have a glass of Absinthe.... gorgeous!
okay, whomst was the gentleman who came fully decked out in what I believe is a Korean outfit at 32:39 and 32:50? If I didn't bungle that, please inform him that he is now an Icon.
also, as a person criminally bad at recognizing people, I am putting "being able to recognize Morgan Donner from just her back" in my resume, you cannot stop me!
That's the marvelous Cheon Shik! His IG link is in my description. We try to tell him he's an icon every day!
He has a CZcams here czcams.com/channels/nXCC9ZImc_Z2tWYwVlSDYw.html
Thanks so much for the name and link! Always really awesome to see additional male-presenting people popping up in the costuber space (where they seem to be rather outnumbered so far?) Not to mention anybody who's recreating garments from a range of cultural traditions!
As everyone else has gushed--the assemblage at the Gage & Tollner dinner!!! It took me several views to recognize Morgan in blonde wig and Portrait of Madame X decolletage! I have adored the look of black gauze over satin since wearing a doublet (from the theater department) for madrigals at University of Illinois that had sleeves of black sheer fabric over green satin with black velvet ribbon striping. Not period at all (for Elizabethan), but sumptuous to look at.
Mmm black silk gauze overdresses giving full on witchy coven vibes love it
I'm not a sewer but have become absolutely entranced by your videos. This one is especially wonderful! Thank you.
I suddenly have the urge to make my own 1890’s versatile evening gown…
The gown is gorgeous. The fastenings may be tedious but the black silk stitching covering them is just so wonderful to look at.
Your precision machine-work, the pleating and the detail of your hand-stitched work is just exquisite, and a joy to watch. You have the patience of a saint! You were without doubt the 'belle of the ball'!
for some reason I find that your sewing machine has such an soothing and ASMRy sound to it
I am LITERALLY sitting in my 1897 Victorian house watching this and am all a-tither! Thank you for this most excellent video!
It is beautiful! I do enjoy your videos, both from an aesthetic point of view (good filming, great sewing) and from how you do your research so in depth, and still are open with the fact that no one can know everything. It’s a pleasure every time you upload!
I love watching you hand stitch. So couture and professional. Brava! When I was young I worked in a high-end boutique doing alterations and I buttonhole stitched around hooks and eyes just like that. I got compliments from the head seamstress for doing that, and comments from the customers. They would ask for me.
Oh Pamela I loved the buttonhole stitching round the hooks and eyes, and that it was in black.
As always I deeply appreciate the amount of research you not only do, but also share with your audience in these videos. I also really like that you talk us through the steps of your sewing process, and your reasoning behind the decisions you make in that--I always feel like I learn so much from your videos. The dress itself is really gorgeous too
Nicole you are a magician! The gown looks breathtaking. I love how you always share those little historical sewing techniques with us - like the folded under puff or button hole stitched hooks. Looks like you all had a wonderfull evening.
I'm so in awe of the craftsmanship they used to put into their clothing. No room for fast fashion back then!
I think it would be cool to do a video on how to attach different closures like hooks and eyes, buttons and buttonholes, etc.
I love the excitement and joy of discovering the story behind an item. I also love the smile on her face when she explained what she found out
Thank you for such a detailed description. I am not a costumer or even much of a seamstress but I am in awe of anyone who is. I adore the Victorian era.
I love seeing how much more comfortable and confident you are in front of the camera now! Thank you for sharing your passion with us!
Oh, this gown is so incredibly pretty!!! I always love seeing your detailed process, and when the end result is this stunning... wow!!!! This style of late 1890s bodice is pretty much my favorite, and it's awesome to see that it really is wonderfully flattering in real life too!
Watching y’all lady’s sew…. So relaxing… y’all are so talented!!
'mostly shoes'
I SEE YOU NICOLE!
The 4:01 mousquetaire sleeve image set me off on quite the adventure--I recognized it immediately as the exact image I found when I was reading the book series about Laura Ingalls Wilder's daughter and, much like Anne, she *insisted* on mousquetaire sleeves that needed so much more fabric than the sleeves Laura wanted to sew for her. I had never heard of the style and only found the one image you posted (waaaaaay back in the early 2000's on the library computer). As a kid who grew up on the hand-me-downs of my older cousins it clearly stuck with me.
I felt the need to go find the passage and discovered even more delightful historical dress and small-community social politics details. I also like how long/quickly it takes for the latest fashions to trickle down to a 15 year-old girl in semi-rural Missouri at the turn of the century.
Please forgive the very long post . . There's a question after the ***
Having just turned 15 in the year 1900 in small-town Mansfield, Missouri:
"I wonder at you, Rose. It's a real pretty dimity, and if your mother says mutton-leg sleeves, it's mutton-leg sleeves. I don't know why she stands any of your lip."
Rose felt a hot flush of anger on the back of her neck. "I don't want mutton-leg sleeves," she all but yelled. She argued to herself, "It's my dress, isn't it? I have to wear it, don't I? I guess if I want mousquetaire sleeves I have a right."
*** Mousquetaire sleeves would take two more yards of dimity for each sleeve {2 yards MORE than leg-o-mutton sleeves?!?!?! What?? Do you have insight???) and that would cost twenty cents. But the real problem was that the only woman in town who had a mousquetaire sleeve pattern was Mrs. Beaumont. Mama {Laura} said she could not pay for a pattern, esp. after the last apple harvest had been so poor. Mama would have died of hunger rather than accept a scrap of charity from her--Mama just plain didn't like Mrs. Beaumont or her daughters.
All the other girls would be wearing the latest style in sleeves that summer. Elsa Beaumont's dress was to be China silk. The Hibbard twins were having organdy made up over pink silkaleen, and Blanche had a pale green mousseline.
[After Laura relents and sends her to ask for the pattern] Rose was so happy she could hardly bear it. But in her happiness she promised herself that she would never forget her sufferings. When she was married, all her children would be beautifully dressed. They would want for nothing.
-- New Dawn on Rocky Ridge by Roger Lea MacBride (Chapter: The Awkward Age, as related to him by Rose herself)
Saw some event pics on IG. Sooooo thrilled to see this video!
LOL …I don't why…*body language"
Fully understand.
Been there done that.
More than once. 😒
Come to think of it, not that long ago. 😏
Fantastic project, love what you've done there❣️
Beautiful dress. Stunning skirt. Stunning overlay with the dark lower section, over your shoes, just the mint green skirt alone and bodice were stunning.
The Manchester Guardian was actually a national daily newspaper and between 1863 and 1910 grew its circulation from 3173 to 40000 which would reach a fair few people and probably fairly expensive to advertise in. The archives of the Guardian(as it is now known) quote ‘Its most famous editor, Charles Prestwich Scott, made the Manchester Guardian into a world-famous newspaper in the 1890s’ I don’t know if this changes the perspective on the pedigree of your green victorian bodice. Loving your work.
The ensemble is stunning, and the party looked like such fun.
Love!!! Thank you for the shout out!
You looked amazing! The hair and background scenery was also awesome.
Love that you can actually see how ordinary people sewed bits on their clothing....the brave have gone before us!
I have brown silk two piece wedding suit (About 1880) and also came with a separate bodice, made from much of the same fabric but dated about five- ten years later. The collars also looked like they were made separately and added to adapt the style a bit. My thought is that clothes were adapted instead of discarded.
Such detailed and careful work! Thank you, Nicole, for sharing both your work, but the original bodice that you copied as well. So interesting and inspiring!
As usual, I'm struck speechless. Thank you for allowing me to watch your art and skill.
Oh beautiful! So so beautiful. When you were showing the inner of the blouse with the perfect finishes and gorgeous enough to be a work of art in itself, I wondered if the dresses currently being recreated will be used in whatever media our great granddaughters will be using - as a showcase piece - and here is Nicole Rudolph's gown recreated from a 1898 gown, please note the method she used to pleat the black taffeta...and how she has mirrored the original method - we are lucky enough to have access to Ms Rudolph's own historic garment collection gifted to the museum so have been able to research the original blouse which Ms Rudolph dated to 1898 - mirrored the original method of draping the salvaged edge of the taffeta.
Which is sorta weird and morbid, I'll give you, but tis the season 😁 And the scenes of the inside of the blouse did put me in mind of the videos of you and Abbey Cox pouring over an addition to the collection.
I love how much research goes into these videos and the reproductions!!! its so surreal to see a place i walk by so often appear in the research behind the bodice too, i know a couple of historical stories about the buildings there but i didn't know about this company yet, really is so much history is just sitting there waiting to be noticed! just miffed i go down that street on the daily and i cant for the life of me remember what shop is now at that address. depending which way the building numbers go, its a phone shop maybe(?) or a lush cosmetics(?) 😂
Stunning! My favorite color, the lovely black gauze overlay, those ruffley and puffy sleeves, the skirt bat wing shapes...sigh.
I love how we could see the diifrent era betwern yours and abby's skirt hers was a little limp and drapy while yours is structured and i love it
Nicole, you rock and your knowlege is awesome
I am obsessed with this level of precision 👏👏👏👏👏
Best friend is also best accessory! Aw, look at them be friends. It's like watching TGIF crossover events back in the day.
That light green is just lovely! I love how both Abby's dress & your dress turned out! 💕
The shop building in Coney St still exists but it is now a takeaway cafe. It's a really pretty building, brick built but with fancy carved stonework around to doors and windows - a perfect frame to a shop display of gowns.
Beautiful! Can't wait to see the photos!
I love everything about this!! And that party looks like a blast 🥰
Stunning. Can't wait to see the photo from the shoot. There's something about gauze overlays that just seem to make everything look more luscious.
This dress is beautiful! I am so glad you had a fun event to wear it to. You looked amazing.
What a delight! This video was so amazing, having you show the original and all the work on the reproduction... You, as always, made an amazing work! I cant wait to see those pics!
Just beautiful and so satisfying to watch, I’m so jealous, here in Australia we don’t have cut in the way of reenactment groups, well not for the eras I love anyway! I might just have to start one!
What an amazing journey! Thanks for going into such thoughtful research and lovingly filmed segments. It showcases the elements so clearly and adds so much to the appreciation of the garment. Plus seeing you wear it to the gathering was an extra treat!
The level of precision that you work at, is awe inspiring. The dress is a stunner.. Also I loved spotting Angela at the party!
Absolutely gorgeous and stunning - love the garments you make.
You are. A vision. What wonderful work! And what a magical gathering you got to share it at. Richly deserved. Your content is just so lovely.
Wow, wow, wow! Stunning...simply stunning! Your details, your explanations, your gown and YOU!
WOW! I don't know which was more amazing, the making of or the history of!
The work, the result, my eyes are full of stars! ❤
this dress is gorgeous. How wonderful you were able to find the original bodice to base this off. Congrats on the artistry of the whole ensemble - shoes and all.
An absolute work of art (and clearly a labour of love!). Well done!
With every new picture/video clip I see of the Antiquarian Dinner, the more firmly I believe that I would absolutely have just swooned at the sight of so many beautiful and elegant people in the same room
Stunning, stunning, stunning!!!
I love finding bodies and heads and then putting them together. You have made me want to go antiquing. I haven't had a chance for a long time.
That bodice is stunning but that batwing skirt was perfection imo ❤️
It's absolutely stunning 🖤💚🖤💚🖤💚🖤💚🖤💚
Can't wait for the pics now
Gorgeous! And I loved seeing all the people in their fancy dresses at the end of the video.
Another triumph, I so wish I could sew like you.
You always do such beautiful work! I love the gorgeous dress, but the investigation into the historical details make it so much better! Thank you, so much, for sharing this masterpiece!
You both look so awesome. I am so jealous.
Thank you for sharing this with us. It came out beautifully.
Those sleeves are amazing! It's so extra and I kind of love it? Also the green with the black overlay is beeeaaaautiful my goodness
Wow, Nicole! This is stunning!
So so stunning! Amazing sleuthing with your extant piece and the the end result is breathtaking!
Such a pleasure to watch your neat and careful stitching. Inspirational, too. The dress is gorgeous!! Thank you for sharing!
And it was sooo fun to see your footage of the party in New York! I follow many of the folks in the room. You’re all so different, with your own areas of focus and interests, but all fun, entertaining, and I’ve learned so much! It adds another beautiful dimension to know that you folks are friends, too. Sending hugs and joy and appreciation.
This made my heart so happy!!! ❤️❤️
I really love your videos, they really calm me down while I'm in the Melbourne lockdowns
That is beautiful! And just a lovely video to watch.