Loads of useful info here, thanks guys. Really surprised to see 15volts output from a usb charging socket- I'll watch out for that. Also, great to see you using Anker charging leads. They really are the best.
Thanks - The various quick charging protocols are interesting - The power delivery PD version will support 45W of charging - Anker leads are rock solid
@@tristramclifford1114 The initial PD spec for USB C (there was a previous PD spec using a variant of the USB A/B connectors but afaict few if any manufacturers used it) supported up to 20V 5A for 100W. However basic USB C cables only support 3A. For 5A you need a cable that is "electronically marked" to show it supports the higher current. There is a new version of the PD spec that ups the max voltage to 48V and hence the max power to 240W. Again specific cables are required.
So 0.25W per unit is 2kwh per year, about 30p If we say 10 million units fitted in the UK that's 20 million kWh per year or 20 thousand megawatt hours or 20 gigawatt hours. Ouch, that's £3 million pounds wasted on standby a year.
Well designed electronic circuits with quality components can last a very time. I believe most LED lights fail because of low quality faulty components. A power consumption of 0.3W over a whole year uses about 2.6KwHr of electricity, about 40p worth, just to keep one charger running for a year. Plus the additional cost of changing the devices attached. The average 2019 uk domestic electricity bill was about £680. 20 million UK households. £8 million pounds worth of electricity is there is just on of these chargers in a each household. I wonder how many wind turbines would be needed to supply this much electricity?
Point well made. Of similar concern to me would be the increasing popularity of wireless charging which has a poor efficiency compared to wired. Another example of convenience for the consumer but when you multipy it up a significant environmental cost.
This is just the tip of the iceberg, the amount of devices, apppliances in the average home which are on standby, or just sat there drawing a small power consumption is considerable. Its a fine line between consumer convenience and environmental considerations.
Two culprits that can draw over 1w on "stand-by" are extractor fan's "timer" module, Manrose use a rather dated pcb with a large resistor that runs quite warm drawing 1w or just over with light off/fan/timer not running... There are more efficient alternative extractor fans drawing less power both on fan & the timer/pcb Another culprit is ye olde shaver light/socket with 110/220v outlet, there is a transformer in some drawing up to 2w just standing by - in these modern times most devices can detect the AC voltage so really little need for a dual voltage shaver outlet, except maybe for hotels ??? Eco reality check... In general, we are often using less energy than say 10 years ago, each year we try to use less & less, but even so we are paying more & more despite us trying to use less & less KW's
I have recently had a smart meter installed. The lowest power consumption I have so far seen is 32 w. Assuming this is devices on standby, gas boiler etc. this is my base load. This is 280 KwHr per year, 10% of my annual consumption. Standby is costing £78 a year.
Hi - I am not an electrician but what happens if you wish to conduct an insulation test between line and neutral ? I assume you would need to disconnect the socket wiring as there is not a seperate charger switch fitted? Despite a relatively low power consumption I would prefer manufacturers fitted a charger isolation switch. All those 24/7 sockets multiplied by many households and the watts add up. I suggest eventually the electronics will fail (dry capacitors of failure of other devices through voltage spikes) so fitting replacement sockets will prove good business for electricians and manufacturers. Cheaper to buy a new plugtop style charger than USB socket outlet.
Very good video guys. I’ve always been concerned that the USB outlets are permanently connected and not isolated by the switch. Encouraging to see the latest specs have caught up and the isolation is munch improved. Thanks.
Great video - I haven't fitted any of these yet - and did wonder about the standby power drain on these. Good to know that there are regulations in place to control this. It isn't just the bundled USB chargers that need to go, the AC to DC transformers should have gone a long time ago and many can in some cases be replaced with a USB driven equivalent. I have a handful of USB to DC cables (also available from a typical online retailer with free delivery). - The USB A to 5v ones are only a few quid, and there are many devices that would be shipped with a 5v 'wall wart' AC adaptor. - Many sellers sell USB 5v to DC 9v or 12v cables as well. - these are a few quid more, but work great on lower powered devices. - Haven't seen any USB PD to higher wattage DC converters yet Many battery powered devices to accept a 5v DC input to allow a USB Powerbank or wall socket as a power source. Hopefully new devices will move towards USB C PD for the higher powered devices.
When I install a usb socket I use a dual box and a a non-switched fused outlet , Fitted with a 13 amp fuse and those euro module on ones via unswitched fused outlet fitted with a one amp fuse. the reason why I wire them that way because there are far to many " grey imports ", plus you don't quite know what inside Those sockets. Plus it allows you to do testing by pulling the fuse and taking the socket " off line " and not interfering with the test . Those internal 3 amp fuse is to large for something that draw less than 50 watts.
I've just returned from a holiday in Cornwall. The property we stayed in had twin 13A switched sockets with three USB A-type outlets. Here's the thing - the USB outlets were SWITCHED. There was a push-on/push off switch with an LED indicator. There was no manufacturer's name visible though, and an internet search draws a blank. It would be nice to think that the switch was a double-pole one on the primary, and that the whole thing was BS1363-compliant, but I don't know. I'll try and contact the property owner and report back with any updates.
@@efixx Homeowner says he installed them about 6 years ago, and probably bought them from Amazon. Disappointing not to find the source, but reinforces my suspicion that they are likely to be of dubious quality.
Nice - is that a Minder poster in the background, looks like Denis Waterman as Terry McCann & Glynn Edwards as Dave! Can just make out George Cole on the left near the end of the video...
Can you guys explain why my MK sockets USB ports output 4.3v instead of the advertised 5v? Furthermore max current draw I can manage is around 0.7A. Most of the time, less than 0.5A. Sockets are only a year old.
Hi, I'm no electrician, just a consumer with product engineering as a background and interested in all things gadgets. I have been one who detested the idea of sockets with built in USB power delivery but also understood the mound of charger units waste. My concerns are, as many , 1- for constant on energy waste and 2- for the possibility of failure, mostly due to heat from what I surmise. I see how many LED lights fail so fast with many thet die to heat dissipation failure. Even though you have demonstrated that when the USB sockets are not being used, the watts is very minimal indeed. Though if these sockets became the norm, and with more and more gadgets being used, the totaly energy waste is still a waste . Over a nation or world, it will still add up. Would it not make sense to have some sort of switching mechanism? Either an independant switch or internal. At least with a tradtional plug-in type you have the option to be fully off. Also, that means when you go on holiday/out the house, though we leave the fridge freezer on, many turn off all other unnecessary devices, these USB sockets will essentially be live. In my eyes its a hazard even if they are off a quality brand. Secondly, I thing it's inevevitable that some sockets will fail, as I mentioned about LED lights. Essentially, part of the socket is useless, whereas again, a normal tradional usb charger can easily be swapped. If the consumer decides to replace, does this not add to electrical waste too? In fact, it would add more waste as the whole device is thrown away. Unless we start using euro style modules for easy replacement or the manufacturer replaces the usb switching power supply module (unlikely). Overall, personally speaking, I don't think it's a well thought out plan for the long run, yet. Perhaps in the future, there will be a USB power delivery mechanism straight from the consumer unit. Thus, only requiring one or two USB delivery power modules, and also can be switched off independently or swapped out/replaced. Well something like that. What are your thoughts? Thanks
There is nothing to stop an sparky installing a euro module charger in every room on a radial circuit via a 6 amp breaker using 1.5mm T&E. Your be surprised how many electrical accessories, circuit breakers and light fitting that have electronic modules fitted , We all fit mains powered smoke alarms for example, Consumer units are becoming more and more computerised. The only you could be completely safe in the way you describe , is when you go away on holiday is to pull the DNO main fuse
Great video I always wondered what the current draw it would be, my only concern now is cheap knock off from China well anywhere really. I know I have looked at some of the US versions of these and went $30-$50 I don't think so, eBay under $10 for better or worse. I understand that the fuse is not 'user, replaceable but that whole outlet is now e-waste.
If the fuse blows it’s not any easy repair job -it’s a sign something else has failed. You have to trust the manufacturer - it’s the isolation between primary and secondary which is the killer.
Problem is that technology is continually upgrading the rate at which devices are charged so, they’re normally out of date before they even hit the market.
Do they manufacture 2-gang sockets that provide USB type C at 20W? I ask because this years and last years iPhones support 20W charging through their USB C charging lead. Looking at most sockets they provide USB type C ports at 3A with 5V so giving 15W. Also good to have them with a USB type A port.
11:20 - USB Type-A doesn't do any voltage negotiations. It is always at 5v though I believe current draw can be negotiated but not in a smart way. USB-C can go up to 20v.
It depends on what protocol is being used - you can find USB A chargers which have implement Qualcomm quick charge - en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quick_Charge
Can I ask, do usb sockets make very low humming or buzzing when not in use? Mines seem to do so but can only hear when my ear is literally against it 😂
I still think filling a house with USB charging sockets is dumb. First of all there is the issue of charging speeds. The USBs built into regular sockets seem to be at the very slow end of USB chargers. The hamilton PD Euro module looks interesting, but I can't seem to find anywhere actually selling it or even a part number for it ( www.hamilton-litestat.com/marketing-hub/latest-news/usb-type-ac-sockets/ mentions it, but gives no part number and links to a page that only mentions USB A modules ). In any case I can't see it being cost-effective to fit Euro module chargers in more than a handful of locations. Secondly there is the issue of standby power, it's not a huge cost but it's not zero either. Finally there is the issue of what happens if it fails. With no way to isolate it your whole socket circuit could be down until you can get it removed.
Loads of useful info here, thanks guys.
Really surprised to see 15volts output from a usb charging socket- I'll watch out for that.
Also, great to see you using Anker charging leads. They really are the best.
Thanks - The various quick charging protocols are interesting - The power delivery PD version will support 45W of charging - Anker leads are rock solid
@@efixx I believe PD spec can step up to 100W (20V). Thanks for the vid (and giving me scary flashbacks to my college days with the set ;-))
@@tristramclifford1114 The initial PD spec for USB C (there was a previous PD spec using a variant of the USB A/B connectors but afaict few if any manufacturers used it) supported up to 20V 5A for 100W. However basic USB C cables only support 3A. For 5A you need a cable that is "electronically marked" to show it supports the higher current.
There is a new version of the PD spec that ups the max voltage to 48V and hence the max power to 240W. Again specific cables are required.
So 0.25W per unit is 2kwh per year, about 30p
If we say 10 million units fitted in the UK that's 20 million kWh per year or 20 thousand megawatt hours or 20 gigawatt hours.
Ouch, that's £3 million pounds wasted on standby a year.
I'm glad someone did the maths. So to say it's a myth that USB's use power on standby is completely true!!!
Well designed electronic circuits with quality components can last a very time. I believe most LED lights fail because of low quality faulty components. A power consumption of 0.3W over a whole year uses about 2.6KwHr of electricity, about 40p worth, just to keep one charger running for a year. Plus the additional cost of changing the devices attached. The average 2019 uk domestic electricity bill was about £680. 20 million UK households. £8 million pounds worth of electricity is there is just on of these chargers in a each household. I wonder how many wind turbines would be needed to supply this much electricity?
Point well made. Of similar concern to me would be the increasing popularity of wireless charging which has a poor efficiency compared to wired. Another example of convenience for the consumer but when you multipy it up a significant environmental cost.
This is just the tip of the iceberg, the amount of devices, apppliances in the average home which are on standby, or just sat there drawing a small power consumption is considerable.
Its a fine line between consumer convenience and environmental considerations.
My thinking is just that if every house gets just two then all the four and six way extension leads with them build in as you say it all adds up.
Two culprits that can draw over 1w on "stand-by" are extractor fan's "timer" module, Manrose use a rather dated pcb with a large resistor that runs quite warm drawing 1w or just over with light off/fan/timer not running...
There are more efficient alternative extractor fans drawing less power both on fan & the timer/pcb
Another culprit is ye olde shaver light/socket with 110/220v outlet, there is a transformer in some drawing up to 2w just standing by - in these modern times most devices can detect the AC voltage so really little need for a dual voltage shaver outlet, except maybe for hotels ???
Eco reality check...
In general, we are often using less energy than say 10 years ago, each year we try to use less & less, but even so we are paying more & more despite us trying to use less & less KW's
I have recently had a smart meter installed. The lowest power consumption I have so far seen is 32 w. Assuming this is devices on standby, gas boiler etc. this is my base load. This is 280 KwHr per year, 10% of my annual consumption. Standby is costing £78 a year.
Hi - I am not an electrician but what happens if you wish to conduct an insulation test between line and neutral ? I assume you would need to disconnect the socket wiring as there is not a seperate charger switch fitted? Despite a relatively low power consumption I would prefer manufacturers fitted a charger isolation switch. All those 24/7 sockets multiplied by many households and the watts add up. I suggest eventually the electronics will fail (dry capacitors of failure of other devices through voltage spikes) so fitting replacement sockets will prove good business for electricians and manufacturers. Cheaper to buy a new plugtop style charger than USB socket outlet.
Very good video guys. I’ve always been concerned that the USB outlets are permanently connected and not isolated by the switch. Encouraging to see the latest specs have caught up and the isolation is munch improved. Thanks.
My "go to" USB socket is the type with a switch to isolate the DC PSU... So none then!! 🤦♂️
Just need the manufacturers to add a mains microswitch to power on only when something is plugged in. Makes an eicr easier as well.
Can we have link for of USB c only sockets..I've been looking for something like this for ages! TIA
We’ve been using these ones from Hamilton - www.hamilton-litestat.com/product-search/usb
Great video - I haven't fitted any of these yet - and did wonder about the standby power drain on these. Good to know that there are regulations in place to control this.
It isn't just the bundled USB chargers that need to go, the AC to DC transformers should have gone a long time ago and many can in some cases be replaced with a USB driven equivalent.
I have a handful of USB to DC cables (also available from a typical online retailer with free delivery).
- The USB A to 5v ones are only a few quid, and there are many devices that would be shipped with a 5v 'wall wart' AC adaptor.
- Many sellers sell USB 5v to DC 9v or 12v cables as well. - these are a few quid more, but work great on lower powered devices.
- Haven't seen any USB PD to higher wattage DC converters yet
Many battery powered devices to accept a 5v DC input to allow a USB Powerbank or wall socket as a power source.
Hopefully new devices will move towards USB C PD for the higher powered devices.
Very interesting and well explained, now I know why I didn’t get a plug-top charger with my new iPhone . Thank you guy’s for another great video. 👍👍
Good followup :) I knew there would be a spec and it can add up if you have a lot of them :)
When I install a usb socket I use a dual box and a a non-switched fused outlet , Fitted with a 13 amp fuse and those euro module on ones via unswitched fused outlet fitted with a one amp fuse. the reason why I wire them that way because there are far to many " grey imports ", plus you don't quite know what inside Those sockets. Plus it allows you to do testing by pulling the fuse and taking the socket " off line " and not interfering with the test . Those internal 3 amp fuse is to large for something that draw less than 50 watts.
Just make it so it can switch off. Double pole please.
I've just returned from a holiday in Cornwall. The property we stayed in had twin 13A switched sockets with three USB A-type outlets. Here's the thing - the USB outlets were SWITCHED. There was a push-on/push off switch with an LED indicator. There was no manufacturer's name visible though, and an internet search draws a blank.
It would be nice to think that the switch was a double-pole one on the primary, and that the whole thing was BS1363-compliant, but I don't know. I'll try and contact the property owner and report back with any updates.
Let us know 👍
@@efixx Homeowner says he installed them about 6 years ago, and probably bought them from Amazon. Disappointing not to find the source, but reinforces my suspicion that they are likely to be of dubious quality.
Gaz is marvellous as always 🥰
Thanks for the support
well there is a easy fix to the small trickle of power being consumed by the wall charger, just put a switch on it.
a time delay 3.15A fuse for a 20W PSU? so we're looking at a sustained 800W+ draw to blow the fuse. Would a smaller fuse not make sense ?
it's only there to disconnect it if it fails catastrophically, inrush on switch mode supplies is what defines the fuse rating.
Nice - is that a Minder poster in the background, looks like Denis Waterman as Terry McCann & Glynn Edwards as Dave! Can just make out George Cole on the left near the end of the video...
Well spotted - a cheeky little scene from The Winchester.
Can you guys explain why my MK sockets USB ports output 4.3v instead of the advertised 5v? Furthermore max current draw I can manage is around 0.7A. Most of the time, less than 0.5A. Sockets are only a year old.
times are moving on.....more stuff we need to deal with
Hi, I'm no electrician, just a consumer with product engineering as a background and interested in all things gadgets.
I have been one who detested the idea of sockets with built in USB power delivery but also understood the mound of charger units waste. My concerns are, as many , 1- for constant on energy waste and 2- for the possibility of failure, mostly due to heat from what I surmise. I see how many LED lights fail so fast with many thet die to heat dissipation failure.
Even though you have demonstrated that when the USB sockets are not being used, the watts is very minimal indeed. Though if these sockets became the norm, and with more and more gadgets being used, the totaly energy waste is still a waste . Over a nation or world, it will still add up. Would it not make sense to have some sort of switching mechanism? Either an independant switch or internal. At least with a tradtional plug-in type you have the option to be fully off.
Also, that means when you go on holiday/out the house, though we leave the fridge freezer on, many turn off all other unnecessary devices, these USB sockets will essentially be live. In my eyes its a hazard even if they are off a quality brand.
Secondly, I thing it's inevevitable that some sockets will fail, as I mentioned about LED lights. Essentially, part of the socket is useless, whereas again, a normal tradional usb charger can easily be swapped.
If the consumer decides to replace, does this not add to electrical waste too? In fact, it would add more waste as the whole device is thrown away. Unless we start using euro style modules for easy replacement or the manufacturer replaces the usb switching power supply module (unlikely).
Overall, personally speaking, I don't think it's a well thought out plan for the long run, yet.
Perhaps in the future, there will be a USB power delivery mechanism straight from the consumer unit.
Thus, only requiring one or two USB delivery power modules, and also can be switched off independently or swapped out/replaced. Well something like that.
What are your thoughts? Thanks
There is nothing to stop an sparky installing a euro module charger in every room on a radial circuit via a 6 amp breaker using 1.5mm T&E. Your be surprised how many electrical accessories, circuit breakers and light fitting that have electronic modules fitted , We all fit mains powered smoke alarms for example, Consumer units are becoming more and more computerised. The only you could be completely safe in the way you describe , is when you go away on holiday is to pull the DNO main fuse
I think regs will be updated at some point to demand isolation switching of the usb ports
So am I right in saying if you want Fast Charge don't but the normal socket outlet. Buy the Power Outlet type for the right solution Yes.
Yes - go for one labelled as quick charge or power delivery - but again it does vary by the type of device and manufacturer.
@@efixx Thanks Guy's 😊
Get your hands on the klein usb tester lovely bit of kit 😍😍😍🎅🎄
just ordered one
Thanks guys 🙏
Great video I always wondered what the current draw it would be, my only concern now is cheap knock off from China well anywhere really. I know I have looked at some of the US versions of these and went $30-$50 I don't think so, eBay under $10 for better or worse.
I understand that the fuse is not 'user, replaceable but that whole outlet is now e-waste.
If the fuse blows it’s not any easy repair job -it’s a sign something else has failed. You have to trust the manufacturer - it’s the isolation between primary and secondary which is the killer.
@@efixx or most likely somebody with a very dodgy USB cable.
Problem is that technology is continually upgrading the rate at which devices are charged so, they’re normally out of date before they even hit the market.
Thanks - a very interesting video. USB tester ordered.
Do they manufacture 2-gang sockets that provide USB type C at 20W? I ask because this years and last years iPhones support 20W charging through their USB C charging lead. Looking at most sockets they provide USB type C ports at 3A with 5V so giving 15W. Also good to have them with a USB type A port.
Where is the link for the amazon tester please ??????
In the description below video - usb a and usb c types
I fitted a legrand one last week. It’s a 2 year old design so I guess it doesn’t do negotiation.
Why Not make them so the socket has to be switched on. Easy to do move the power feed wires to socket side after the switch.
Where can you buy these Hamilton sockets online? Can't seem to find anyone that sells them.
11:20 - USB Type-A doesn't do any voltage negotiations. It is always at 5v though I believe current draw can be negotiated but not in a smart way. USB-C can go up to 20v.
It depends on what protocol is being used - you can find USB A chargers which have implement Qualcomm quick charge - en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quick_Charge
@@efixx True, but that isn't a USB standard. USB-C does this natively for example which is why it is much more expensive and complicated to implement.
Can I ask, do usb sockets make very low humming or buzzing when not in use? Mines seem to do so but can only hear when my ear is literally against it 😂
Usb charging standards have been and will continue to be updated these sockets be obsolete in 10 years stupid idea
“Watt” did u say?
If every house has 3 or more in 5 million houses all adds up
These products need to be banned. Standby mode needs to be taxed so that manufacturers supply an on/off switch to their TVs, microwave ovens et al.
I still think filling a house with USB charging sockets is dumb.
First of all there is the issue of charging speeds. The USBs built into regular sockets seem to be at the very slow end of USB chargers. The hamilton PD Euro module looks interesting, but I can't seem to find anywhere actually selling it or even a part number for it ( www.hamilton-litestat.com/marketing-hub/latest-news/usb-type-ac-sockets/ mentions it, but gives no part number and links to a page that only mentions USB A modules ). In any case I can't see it being cost-effective to fit Euro module chargers in more than a handful of locations.
Secondly there is the issue of standby power, it's not a huge cost but it's not zero either.
Finally there is the issue of what happens if it fails. With no way to isolate it your whole socket circuit could be down until you can get it removed.