Nice job with the channel Matt. Of note when using in monoblock mode and rolling op-amps, it only needs U6 op-amp changing out for the left channel...no need to spend money on 4 when 2 will do.
After singing relentless praises of the FOSI V3 (which I still love, don't get me wrong here), this A07 MAX had me dumbfounded (in a very good way), because of how good it sounds. I'm still shaking my head in amazement (after upgrading the op amps with the discrete Sparkos Labs SS3603 dual channel versions), at its musicality, being uncannily immersive, sound-staging with depth, deep dynamic bass (and so much more) that this little amp produces (I only have one A07 MAX in a standard configuration). Powering a set of KEF Q350's with a Presonus 10" powered subwoofer, this amplifier bests my Cambridge integrated amp, and just about every other amp that I have on hand (however, the V3 gives it a run for its money). I have it connected to a custom 40V linear power supply, and it can do wonders. Don't stop - just run and buy this amp - then upgrade the power supply and change out the op amps, and you will be rewarded with a level of audio reproduction that defies description (considering the price), and matches many of the big boys (and surpasses some of them). Sorry, I didn't mean to get carried away here.
Sounds like your utilizing it well, I should drop in my sparkos op amps and play around with it. I was impressed with the sound as well, it’s a good buy honestly.
The likes of the V3 and now the A07 Max sound very nice with the KEF's, only because in a way, they are warmer sounding amps - gradually approaching what the class AB sound like. The A07 Max has no issues pushing the Q150's and Q350's. Now I must say that I've always left my audio components on (never turning them off) because I've long since discovered that for the most part, electronics sound better after having been on for a while. The key again is to indulge in the upgrades Matt alluded to - meaning the op amp and power supply. Then leave the amp(s) on for at least 24 hours before seriously beginning to listen (and keep them on).
Quick aside for the original A07 ... 1) The "Industrial look" with the silly silver bolts on the front is very easy to fix with just a couple of small dabs of black nail polish. Remove the bolts and paint the heads black. It looks much nicer without those bolt heads glaring at you. 2) The slightly thin bass problem comes from the lower input impedance of the NE5532 op-amps they used. The Bass roll-off was noticeable starting at about 40hz. If you swap them out for chips with higher input impedances (eg. RC4558 or TL072, both less than $1.00 each) that problem pretty much clears up moving the roll off down to about 8hz (the ideal is 3). 3) Using 50 volt caps with a 48 volt supply should not be a problem if the caps are genuine parts. (Yes there are fake caps out there, too). Where you get into trouble is when you go beyond the voltage rating, like putting 25 volt caps on a 48volt rail ... they explode rather violently. The new MAX is interesting... but that silly power switch on the volume knob thing is still a deal breaker, just like it was with the V3.
I own several of these digital chip amps - Aiyima, Douk Audio, Nobsound, etc. These are fun to work with and have come a long way. My problem with all of them is their bloated power ratings. Why is so hard not to use the old standard RMS ratings we had in the 1970/80s? These digital chip amps put out just less than 1/2 their advertised power cleanly. And that is using a 48v adapter. However, most provide enough clean power to overcome the bloated ratings. And ultra low THD compared to Class D amps (which most people get wrong). Digital chip amps are NOT Class D. Google it.
Just now, I ordered a pair of these A07 Max units, they are on sale for $73 on Amazon. I own the Fosi V3 and am completely blown away by the sound it is producing. It was a bit anemic and thin until I purchased the Douk Audio Line Level Booster, which really opened up the V3... I am expecting the same with the A07 Max. I also have a pair of the Sparkos, they really muddied up the sound of the V3, so I am hoping that they give me some magic in a pair of these A07 units. Going to be interesting to see, or hear how these compare to the V3. I have an A/B switch and will do a mini shootout with the V3 and one A07, going to be fun! The gear: WiiM Pro with LPS > PS Audio Gaincell DAC/Preamp > Douk Audio Line Level Booster via XLR to RCA adapters > Fosi V3 > Zu DW6 Supreme speakers with the SVS SB3000 subs x 2
Tnanks for this video! In less than 4 minutes you showed how to set it up for bridged mono and described the aux out as fixed instead of variable. I watched other videos and these questions were not covered. I have used line level out to connect a sub, but my current subs do not have that option, I may need to buy a sub.
Another great review/overview. Really appreciate your coverage of the advancements on these cool little amps. They’re awfully enticing. Makes me want to justify a second system (which I simply cannot)! Although the low price fun factor still remains with these offerings, it’s scary to think how good they might get. Could miniaturization of components and new chip implementations soon exceed current more expensive Hifi?
You could always take the Perspex shelving out and use as a template for your local metal sheet worker and get some nice 2mm aluminium shelves cut for that micro rack…I have one from Kguss and was going to do this but it doesn’t sag with the A07 MAX on the top and middle shelf in mono mode and the WiiM Pro Plus on the bottom shelf. I thought the A07 Max sounded fine straight of the box. I hooked mine up to a pair of Q Acoustic 3030i and it sounds fine. I have a couple of other op amps lying around which I might use later like the opa1656, opa2604, Muses 8920, 8820 and the opa2134 but to be honest the stock sound is very good with the WiiM Pro plus I don’t have that curiosity that can often, as it has, lead to the toolkit coming out and a few hours of rigorous op amp swapping. I have to say that’s a pretty good deal and in respect to the sound then the A07 Max gives a more analogue sound than something like the A300 from SMSL which uses the Infineon chips which in my experience have never really matched the TI3255 and Aiyima’s amps. While the SMSL did deliver plenty of detail and mid range clarity the low end dragged considerably and still does in comparison to the TI3255 and the A07 series which delivers a more balanced, warmer and beefier sound signature. Great little amps!
@@MattCoykendall1 A small thing you should try with both the MAX and ZA3 ... With the amp on and playing music, flip the mono switch back and forth and see what happens... Then let us know. If my hunch is right, it could be quite nasty.
Upgrade the opamps to Lm 5462. $6 investment and brings the amp completely to the next level. The treble stock is mediocre and a bit undefined. This chip facilitates an enormous airy soundstage with smooth detailed treble. I'm getting a second amp this week to run them as monoblocks with these opamps from a tube preamp.
@@AnhNguyen-iw7cfFor as far as I know you need two opamps per amp. The opa 2134 has a little reduced treble like the 5462. I'll be trying the opa 2604 soon. I run dual mono. Total power 380 watt in 8 ohms and 630 in 4. They drive anything. A brighter quality dac or preamp helps a lot for the centre image and clarity.
The problem i have with these tpa3255 based amps is they don't use pffb and no separate on off switch! Its a shame as it is simple enough to implement and you would've thought an updated version would include this.
Thank you for this! I would like to ask the community of A07 Max owners If they know what the input impedance of this amplifier is? (aks input resistence = ratio of input voltage / Input current) thanks
Would be interested to know more about qualities like soundstage and imaging, compared to the original and the Fosi V3, and whether those qualities improve in monoblock configuration vs a single A07 Max. Thanks for posting.
Soundstage and imaging are not controlled by the electronics in a stereo system. The presentation of the instruments is determined in the recorded source material. No stereo amplifier that I know of has any circuitry whatsoever to alter or create this effect. If anything is going to affect the 'soundstage' it is going to be speaker placement and room acoustics. While you can't create it with a perfect setup, you can certainly sabotage it with a bad one.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 I wonder why than if I keep my speakers in the same position and try different DACs/AMPS/OPAMPS and other than hearing more/less detail, dynamics and musicality I also get a various effect in soundstage - depth and width? I wanted to think it's all due to speaker placement, but if you hook up an R2R or Geshelli Labs DAC to the same system you'll forget that thought. I'm still baffled by this...
@@IvanITpro It's all about focus. When you hook up something new in your system, you will be laser focused on listening for differences. You end up hearing minute details in the reproduction that have likely been there all along, but you simply did not notice before. I hear differences too ... but I don't stop at "I heard that" and poke a little deeper to ask "Why did I hear that?". My test gear most often shows me there is literally no difference in the signal content, so 99 of 100 times it turns out that I was simply noticing stuff I'd not heard before ... that little triangle in the crescendo or the fingers on the fretboard... things you wouldn't notice in casual listening. Also, given that the wavelengths at 10khz are abut 1.3 inch (34mm) the placement of speakers is not a simple matter of "that looks right" ... even distance and angular mismatches of a half inch start to matter. A difference in distance, for example, of just 0.6 inches (17mm) can actually have your tweeters out of phase at your listening position. Move your head half an inch and the whole thing changes... so unless you are head in a vice, in exactly the correct spot, you can't really do critical comparisons by ear. Here's an easy test you can do at home... play a 2khz test tone at low volume through your system. Now sit in your sweet spot... move your head side to side by about 3 inches ... the entire level and direction of that test tone will change pronouncedly... and that's just because of the different arrival times at your ears. Shall I keep going?
So if i wanted to do an op amp upgrade on a pair of max's in mono and decided to buy the dual ss3602 sparkos op amp would i need to buy one set of dual ops and put one op amp on the left channel of each amp or would i need to buy two sets...or is the dual ss3602 only one chip? Lol also if i am running mono maxs i really would only need to replace the left channel op amp since in mono it is only using the left channel correct?
I want to use these as monobocks but with a vintage receiver as a pre amp. Can I go from the pre out with RCA cables into the left of one monoblock and right of the other?
Does anyone know the answer to this question...If swapping the op-amps when running as mono-blocks which op-amp controls the right speaker and which chip controls the left? I read that each op-amp is dedicated to either the right or left speaker output; therefore, if running in mono you only need to upgrade 1 op-amp per device (for a total of 2 op-amps) vs both op-amps per device for a total of 4. This would save $160+ in unnecessary expenses if upgrading to the Sparkos op-amps. Thanks!
I emailed Aiyima and they confirmed you only need to swap one op-amp per unit when running mono. "In mono mode, only replace the U6 op-amp chip,but under the dual channel stereo modes,you can replace two of them.Thanks" The U6 op-amp chip is the one closest to the front (closest to the volume knob). As a not I run these in mono with the volume on both at full power and control the volume through my Wiim streamer. They both get hot AF...like really hot...I'm kinda concerned...anyone else experience this?
Does it make a huge difference to go monoblock? How to plug a Subwoofer? Can one use a jds dac/amp stack as the dac/preamp needed to go monoblock? Would the FOSI Za3 be better than the aiyama? (and is there an actual difference in sound quality between the Bt20a pro and the Za3?). Lots of questions ;) thanks!
I nearly got a couple of these but went for the Fosi ZA3 because it's got XLR and a dedicated sub out. Other than that I expect they will sound similar having the same chip, and these AO7 Max are about half the price of the ZA3 for me here in Australia...
Yes you can I do it all the time with various amps. One thing to note is that most of these amps need a higher signal input voltage than most AVRs put out. I have a Yamaha RXV665 and it only puts out 1v max with it set to its maximum in the AVR settings. I use an Aiyima low pass filter pre-amp to boost the voltage of the LFE signal from the Yamaha.
@@jothishj8250 That's good to know thanks! I tried a tpa3255 from Wuzhi audio because it can be used as 2ch or mono and had bad results so I've been skeptical to try another. I also tried a Fosi bt30d and returned it. As soon as you turned the volume up it would cut out and it wasn't even as loud as my tpa3116 2.1 amp.
it accepts raw speaker cable, right? or only bananas? how can i match these with other amp (nobsound) in a 2 way active solution (i have dayton DSP for crossover), i mean how to set volume right on two different amps powering woofers (aiyima) and tweeters (nobsound)?
What to get, these or the ZA3 (with a low pass sub out), or wait for the true mono blocks Fosi is preparing (No pre-amping included nor a sub out, you'll need a pre-amp for driving a sub as well).
I would wait for them all to be released to make a more informed decision. I have exactly the same dilemma, except I ruled out the A07 MAX because 50V capacitors are technically unsuitable for handling 48v supplies.
I have the original A07, and you can definitely run a sub with it (2.1) if your sub has speaker level inputs. If so, double up the wires out of the amp, with a set going to the two speakers, and the other set going to the sub’s speaker level inputs. Done.
Thanks Matt! I love my Aiyima 07 MAX - very good bass response with the stock 36 V PSU. Ordered the 48 V Aiyima PSU and returned it the same day, it robbed the amp of all the good bass it produced with the stock 36 V PSU. It was the same model Fossi Audio sells theirs for double the price - (AIYIMA DC48V 5A GaN Power Supply Adapter for TPA3255 from Amazon). Maybe the non GaN version would be better, but that's for another day. Sparkos first ;) I was curious, how come do your speaker wires have two wires going to each terminal (+/-) so four wires total for only 2 terminals +/- ? I'm very baffled by this, have never seen that before. Thx!
It’s called a star quad pattern, it suppose to reduce capacitance in this configuration. The cable is canare 4s11w, I honestly couldn’t say if there is an impact but either way it’s a nice cable. This was a DIY cable I put together, have a video coming on it.
What are your thoughts on running this in mono for a sub amp? I have some old car stereo subs I'd like to repurpose. If not this model any suggestions? These tiny amps have me curious to try one. Thanks!
How about a review of those Polk LSiM703 you have. I'm curious as to how they have held up over time to the new offerings since they where released and discontinued.
Im looking to build the css torri kit, I have a question regarding the amplifier? Will such an amplifier be sufficient? or what would you recommend in this price range?
If I'm adding this to a receiver, do you think there would be an appreciable difference or should I save up for the Sabaj A20 or something like an Emotiva BasX?
I wonder how they would sound on 24v? A pair so monoblocks! I live on a boat why not power from 2x100a in series so 24v deep cycle batteries. I think batteries=cleaner power , maybe i will consider getting two in netherlands i have seen them as cheap as 68 euros each with free shipping.
These aren't really "mono blocks", just stereo amps that can be bridged. Also how many takes on the same amp chipset and configuration do we need? Small improvements are improvements I guess but I'd rather see something different in terms of features rather than small iterations of the same thing. True power amps (with no volume control) and a separate pre-amp with 3+ inputs and 2 pre-outs or a single preout and subwoofer out with a remote is really what I'd like to see come out from one of these companies to give people a entry-level entry into separates. Right now the cheapest option is Schiit Saga and Vidar and while those are a excellent value they are still out of reach for many.
The TPA3255 chip has a Parallel Bridge Tied Load (PBTL) mode which parallels channels and gives you a true bridged monoblock amplifier. Probably the most exciting change here is getting the output filter coils away from the large metal mass of a heat sink. On some earlier designs, the coils were right up against the heat sink where they caused eddy currents and cross-coupling between coils... this is clearly better. I'd say to look for your wish list coming in the near future. These guys are still learning how to make power amps that actually work right... it will get better.
@Douglas_Blake_579 Nice technical insight. So there is two TPA3255s in this amp to make the bridgeable thing possible? And yeah, you do see them getting better. Its a similar thing with the bike industry where 95% of the carbon fiber frames and wheels are made for western brands. They've gotten very good at designing and making their own wheels, and pretty good at frames but they still lag behind building their own drivetrain components. It seems to be a similar thing here where they constantly iterate different new versions of essentially the same thing until they eventually get it.
@@PhillioDoede No. There is one TPA3255 in each. Grab the "TPA3255 Spec Sheet" (google is your friend) and you will see the chip itself is 4 independent amplifiers that can be configured in a number of useful ways ... 4 x se, 2 x se + 1 btl, 2 x btl, 1 x pbtl ... according to your needs. Almost all of the current TPA3255 amps are already bridged, running in 2 x BTL (Bridge Tied Load... or Bridged) mode. In the Mono mode the chip is reconfigured to 1 x PBTL (Parallel BTL) mode so that the 4 amplifiers are working as 2 pairs to form a bridge, but paralleled for more current output.
You would only need to install one op amp per unit in mono block configuration. The op amp closest to the front of the unit are the ones that get swapped out.
@@michaelwright1602 Do you know this for fact? I've seen a lot of speculation about chip-flipping in these dual mode amplifiers and most of the time the results are less than thrilling. I would sooner see someone replace all of the ne5532 chips with something else. I will commonly replace them with RC4558s or TL072s and get a pretty good result for just pennies per chip. The point is that the $100 op-amps are not necessarily better ... it's the ne5532s that are worse.
Wiim Pro Amp is has the PSU built in and is pretty nice. Basically the Wiim Pro Plus with a amp on it.I have one and like it quite a bit. Sounds good to my ears.
I know you're asking Matt ... I hope you don't mind if I toss in my 2 cents worth... If you know your line levels are fully compatible, a volume control is a luxury. But if there is a level mismatch between the output of your pre-amp stage and the input of the power amplifier, a volume control is necessary to adjust gain and prevent excessive clipping. I don't know about the MAX ... haven't tested one yet, but on the A07 classic and the various FOSI versions the input level for clipping with a 36 volt supply is about 1.3 volts RMS. The TB10D and A07 Pro are a bit more sensitive, needing only 800mv for clipping. So best bet... see if you can find (or measure) the output from your previous stage and base your decision on that.
Can I ask a dumb question? If for example my ELAC Unifi52s are rated for max 150w, would putting them on 2x A07 MAX Mono blocks with 48V power supply mess them up?
Probably not. However; if you play a lot of "brick walled" content from the loudness wars or tons of deep bass passages, you might have problems at extreme high volumes. Just keep the volume sane, and you should be okay.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 Thanks for this. And the tip on your other comment. Got a pack of TL072s for my 2 new A07 Max's on order.. I'll be careful with volume.. I doubt this will sound better than my A2M mini... Or will it?! lol, ah the joys.
@@Eron55555 Even with the 48 volt supply you're not going to get much more than 100wpc rms from the TPA3255 chip. Yes it will produce more power... but also a lot more distortion. That's only a 3db boost over the A2m ... barely noticeable. FWIW... the 300wch rating is the chip's absolute maximum which is at more than 10% distortion. You might get 300 out of it... once.
Obtain a cheap pair of passive PA style 15" bass cabs (eg. Rockford) & a cheap pair of 2-way crossovers around 200 Hz from parts express with a variable resistor (volume) in the low frequency circuit. The results will sound more satisfying than some silly sub-crawl in the corner. It's kinda' cheating a way into a full range 3-way. Reggae, Funk & Brass 🔈🔉🔊
They're selling them by the thousands. That amplifier itself goes down to 3 or 4hz. It's the passive speakers that can't make the trip. You can always use the "high level" speaker relays on your sub to extract any low frequency output... amp to sub-high-level to speakers.
![If you can't hear this then you're not an audiophile [See description for link to followup video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/48PxwspDvrE/mqdefault.jpg)
![If you can't hear this then you're not an audiophile [See description for link to followup video]](/img/tr.png)
Nice job with the channel Matt. Of note when using in monoblock mode and rolling op-amps, it only needs U6 op-amp changing out for the left channel...no need to spend money on 4 when 2 will do.
After singing relentless praises of the FOSI V3 (which I still love, don't get me wrong here), this A07 MAX had me dumbfounded (in a very good way), because of how good it sounds. I'm still shaking my head in amazement (after upgrading the op amps with the discrete Sparkos Labs SS3603 dual channel versions), at its musicality, being uncannily immersive, sound-staging with depth, deep dynamic bass (and so much more) that this little amp produces (I only have one A07 MAX in a standard configuration). Powering a set of KEF Q350's with a Presonus 10" powered subwoofer, this amplifier bests my Cambridge integrated amp, and just about every other amp that I have on hand (however, the V3 gives it a run for its money). I have it connected to a custom 40V linear power supply, and it can do wonders. Don't stop - just run and buy this amp - then upgrade the power supply and change out the op amps, and you will be rewarded with a level of audio reproduction that defies description (considering the price), and matches many of the big boys (and surpasses some of them). Sorry, I didn't mean to get carried away here.
Sounds like your utilizing it well, I should drop in my sparkos op amps and play around with it. I was impressed with the sound as well, it’s a good buy honestly.
How do you like the Q350s with a D class amp? Right now those are on sale for $500 till the end of year I'm thinking of picking up a set.
One other thing on those Sparkos did you ever look into the opamps from Burson.
Started reading your post here and it seemed familiar and realized i just read your nice review on Amazon, ha ha.
The likes of the V3 and now the A07 Max sound very nice with the KEF's, only because in a way, they are warmer sounding amps - gradually approaching what the class AB sound like. The A07 Max has no issues pushing the Q150's and Q350's. Now I must say that I've always left my audio components on (never turning them off) because I've long since discovered that for the most part, electronics sound better after having been on for a while. The key again is to indulge in the upgrades Matt alluded to - meaning the op amp and power supply. Then leave the amp(s) on for at least 24 hours before seriously beginning to listen (and keep them on).
Great review, Matt! Keep 'em coming. Thanks for leaving out the flowery descriptions. Looking forward to the next.
More to come! Thanks for watching
Quick aside for the original A07 ...
1) The "Industrial look" with the silly silver bolts on the front is very easy to fix with just a couple of small dabs of black nail polish. Remove the bolts and paint the heads black. It looks much nicer without those bolt heads glaring at you.
2) The slightly thin bass problem comes from the lower input impedance of the NE5532 op-amps they used. The Bass roll-off was noticeable starting at about 40hz. If you swap them out for chips with higher input impedances (eg. RC4558 or TL072, both less than $1.00 each) that problem pretty much clears up moving the roll off down to about 8hz (the ideal is 3).
3) Using 50 volt caps with a 48 volt supply should not be a problem if the caps are genuine parts. (Yes there are fake caps out there, too). Where you get into trouble is when you go beyond the voltage rating, like putting 25 volt caps on a 48volt rail ... they explode rather violently.
The new MAX is interesting... but that silly power switch on the volume knob thing is still a deal breaker, just like it was with the V3.
A lot of good info here.
@@MattCoykendall1
You're welcome. 😁
Everyone has their own usage habits and I'm sure there is something you like in the other products.
@@aiyimaaudio8133
I am still using the original A07 in my system. I've done some modifications and it is now an excellent amplifier.
I own several of these digital chip amps - Aiyima, Douk Audio, Nobsound, etc. These are fun to work with and have come a long way. My problem with all of them is their bloated power ratings. Why is so hard not to use the old standard RMS ratings we had in the 1970/80s? These digital chip amps put out just less than 1/2 their advertised power cleanly. And that is using a 48v adapter. However, most provide enough clean power to overcome the bloated ratings. And ultra low THD compared to Class D amps (which most people get wrong). Digital chip amps are NOT Class D. Google it.
Just now, I ordered a pair of these A07 Max units, they are on sale for $73 on Amazon. I own the Fosi V3 and am completely blown away by the sound it is producing. It was a bit anemic and thin until I purchased the Douk Audio Line Level Booster, which really opened up the V3... I am expecting the same with the A07 Max. I also have a pair of the Sparkos, they really muddied up the sound of the V3, so I am hoping that they give me some magic in a pair of these A07 units. Going to be interesting to see, or hear how these compare to the V3. I have an A/B switch and will do a mini shootout with the V3 and one A07, going to be fun!
The gear: WiiM Pro with LPS > PS Audio Gaincell DAC/Preamp > Douk Audio Line Level Booster via XLR to RCA adapters > Fosi V3 > Zu DW6 Supreme speakers with the SVS SB3000 subs x 2
Tnanks for this video! In less than 4 minutes you showed how to set it up for bridged mono and described the aux out as fixed instead of variable. I watched other videos and these questions were not covered. I have used line level out to connect a sub, but my current subs do not have that option, I may need to buy a sub.
Thanks again Matt, great review as usual!
Appreciate the watch as well!
Another great review/overview. Really appreciate your coverage of the advancements on these cool little amps. They’re awfully enticing. Makes me want to justify a second system (which I simply cannot)! Although the low price fun factor still remains with these offerings, it’s scary to think how good they might get. Could miniaturization of components and new chip implementations soon exceed current more expensive Hifi?
Unknown if it will eventually surpass, if anything it might force the hand of the high end manufacturers to step it up which is great too.
@@MattCoykendall1
The specs for the TPA3255 already exceed many top line amplifiers. The race is definitely on.
You could always take the Perspex shelving out and use as a template for your local metal sheet worker and get some nice 2mm aluminium shelves cut for that micro rack…I have one from Kguss and was going to do this but it doesn’t sag with the A07 MAX on the top and middle shelf in mono mode and the WiiM Pro Plus on the bottom shelf. I thought the A07 Max sounded fine straight of the box. I hooked mine up to a pair of Q Acoustic 3030i and it sounds fine. I have a couple of other op amps lying around which I might use later like the opa1656, opa2604, Muses 8920, 8820 and the opa2134 but to be honest the stock sound is very good with the WiiM Pro plus I don’t have that curiosity that can often, as it has, lead to the toolkit coming out and a few hours of rigorous op amp swapping. I have to say that’s a pretty good deal and in respect to the sound then the A07 Max gives a more analogue sound than something like the A300 from SMSL which uses the Infineon chips which in my experience have never really matched the TI3255 and Aiyima’s amps. While the SMSL did deliver plenty of detail and mid range clarity the low end dragged considerably and still does in comparison to the TI3255 and the A07 series which delivers a more balanced, warmer and beefier sound signature. Great little amps!
Matt what were going to need is a sound test between this and the new Fosi ZA3 being released next mth. Hope your able to get one.
Hopefully I will get a pair of ZA3 in for review, last I heard I was suppose to.
@@MattCoykendall1
A small thing you should try with both the MAX and ZA3 ... With the amp on and playing music, flip the mono switch back and forth and see what happens... Then let us know.
If my hunch is right, it could be quite nasty.
07 max may be best as mono blocks then..@@Douglas_Blake_579
Upgrade the opamps to Lm 5462. $6 investment and brings the amp completely to the next level. The treble stock is mediocre and a bit undefined. This chip facilitates an enormous airy soundstage with smooth detailed treble. I'm getting a second amp this week to run them as monoblocks with these opamps from a tube preamp.
I'm using two 07max in mono. How many opamps 5462 i have change in my 07max? Both channel LR or only L channel? Many thanks
@@AnhNguyen-iw7cfFor as far as I know you need two opamps per amp. The opa 2134 has a little reduced treble like the 5462. I'll be trying the opa 2604 soon. I run dual mono. Total power 380 watt in 8 ohms and 630 in 4. They drive anything. A brighter quality dac or preamp helps a lot for the centre image and clarity.
I love the cute little cabinet
The problem i have with these tpa3255 based amps is they don't use pffb and no separate on off switch! Its a shame as it is simple enough to implement and you would've thought an updated version would include this.
I hear ya, I would imagine these will be on their radar for future models. It seems like the next step to really separate from the pack.
The SMSL SA400 and VMW A2 implements PFFB along with some of their mods, they both sound excellent as a result.
Do you ever need to switch them off ? Why ?
Thank you for this! I would like to ask the community of A07 Max owners If they know what the input impedance of this amplifier is? (aks input resistence = ratio of input voltage / Input current)
thanks
Would be interested to know more about qualities like soundstage and imaging, compared to the original and the Fosi V3, and whether those qualities improve in monoblock configuration vs a single A07 Max. Thanks for posting.
Noted!
Soundstage and imaging are not controlled by the electronics in a stereo system. The presentation of the instruments is determined in the recorded source material. No stereo amplifier that I know of has any circuitry whatsoever to alter or create this effect.
If anything is going to affect the 'soundstage' it is going to be speaker placement and room acoustics. While you can't create it with a perfect setup, you can certainly sabotage it with a bad one.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 I wonder why than if I keep my speakers in the same position and try different DACs/AMPS/OPAMPS and other than hearing more/less detail, dynamics and musicality I also get a various effect in soundstage - depth and width? I wanted to think it's all due to speaker placement, but if you hook up an R2R or Geshelli Labs DAC to the same system you'll forget that thought. I'm still baffled by this...
@@IvanITpro
It's all about focus. When you hook up something new in your system, you will be laser focused on listening for differences. You end up hearing minute details in the reproduction that have likely been there all along, but you simply did not notice before.
I hear differences too ... but I don't stop at "I heard that" and poke a little deeper to ask "Why did I hear that?". My test gear most often shows me there is literally no difference in the signal content, so 99 of 100 times it turns out that I was simply noticing stuff I'd not heard before ... that little triangle in the crescendo or the fingers on the fretboard... things you wouldn't notice in casual listening.
Also, given that the wavelengths at 10khz are abut 1.3 inch (34mm) the placement of speakers is not a simple matter of "that looks right" ... even distance and angular mismatches of a half inch start to matter.
A difference in distance, for example, of just 0.6 inches (17mm) can actually have your tweeters out of phase at your listening position. Move your head half an inch and the whole thing changes... so unless you are head in a vice, in exactly the correct spot, you can't really do critical comparisons by ear.
Here's an easy test you can do at home... play a 2khz test tone at low volume through your system. Now sit in your sweet spot... move your head side to side by about 3 inches ... the entire level and direction of that test tone will change pronouncedly... and that's just because of the different arrival times at your ears.
Shall I keep going?
lo
So if i wanted to do an op amp upgrade on a pair of max's in mono and decided to buy the dual ss3602 sparkos op amp would i need to buy one set of dual ops and put one op amp on the left channel of each amp or would i need to buy two sets...or is the dual ss3602 only one chip? Lol also if i am running mono maxs i really would only need to replace the left channel op amp since in mono it is only using the left channel correct?
I want to use these as monobocks but with a vintage receiver as a pre amp. Can I go from the pre out with RCA cables into the left of one monoblock and right of the other?
Gonna put this on my radar
Great review, and thank you for not using terms like caramely, buttery, velvety etc. LOL
Thanks for watching!
Hi Matt, how do you think a pair of these would match the Emotiva T2+?
Does anyone know the answer to this question...If swapping the op-amps when running as mono-blocks which op-amp controls the right speaker and which chip controls the left? I read that each op-amp is dedicated to either the right or left speaker output; therefore, if running in mono you only need to upgrade 1 op-amp per device (for a total of 2 op-amps) vs both op-amps per device for a total of 4. This would save $160+ in unnecessary expenses if upgrading to the Sparkos op-amps. Thanks!
I emailed Aiyima and they confirmed you only need to swap one op-amp per unit when running mono. "In mono mode, only replace the U6 op-amp chip,but under the dual channel stereo modes,you can replace two of them.Thanks" The U6 op-amp chip is the one closest to the front (closest to the volume knob).
As a not I run these in mono with the volume on both at full power and control the volume through my Wiim streamer. They both get hot AF...like really hot...I'm kinda concerned...anyone else experience this?
@@Fyzical2000 I would take the units apart and get some CPU thermal paste and apply to the bottom side of the amp chip and case bottom.
Does it make a huge difference to go monoblock? How to plug a Subwoofer? Can one use a jds dac/amp stack as the dac/preamp needed to go monoblock? Would the FOSI Za3 be better than the aiyama? (and is there an actual difference in sound quality between the Bt20a pro and the Za3?). Lots of questions ;) thanks!
I nearly got a couple of these but went for the Fosi ZA3 because it's got XLR and a dedicated sub out. Other than that I expect they will sound similar having the same chip, and these AO7 Max are about half the price of the ZA3 for me here in Australia...
How much diffences did you foud?
Great review Matt. Can I use this in mono mode to power a passive subwoofer from my AV receiver's subwoofer pre-out?
Yes you can I do it all the time with various amps. One thing to note is that most of these amps need a higher signal input voltage than most AVRs put out. I have a Yamaha RXV665 and it only puts out 1v max with it set to its maximum in the AVR settings. I use an Aiyima low pass filter pre-amp to boost the voltage of the LFE signal from the Yamaha.
@@KGrasso89 I got it from amazon few weeks back and it is an absolute beast. My 12 inch jbl passive sub have never been this loud.
@@jothishj8250 That's good to know thanks! I tried a tpa3255 from Wuzhi audio because it can be used as 2ch or mono and had bad results so I've been skeptical to try another. I also tried a Fosi bt30d and returned it. As soon as you turned the volume up it would cut out and it wasn't even as loud as my tpa3116 2.1 amp.
What would the Aux out be used for?
Good review
i got one put a cooler at the bottom and holes at the top lets have a look how long stay/works the sound for me poor OK
I bought this shit yesterday 100 buck
I expect a new level of Fidelity from my ELAC Uni-Fi 2.0 UB52
I guess you made the wrong bet for an upgrade in didelity? 😅
it accepts raw speaker cable, right? or only bananas? how can i match these with other amp (nobsound) in a 2 way active solution (i have dayton DSP for crossover), i mean how to set volume right on two different amps powering woofers (aiyima) and tweeters (nobsound)?
It does accept bare cable as well. Matching will take some measurements but likely doable.
What to get, these or the ZA3 (with a low pass sub out), or wait for the true mono blocks Fosi is preparing (No pre-amping included nor a sub out, you'll need a pre-amp for driving a sub as well).
I would wait for them all to be released to make a more informed decision.
I have exactly the same dilemma, except I ruled out the A07 MAX because 50V capacitors are technically unsuitable for handling 48v supplies.
I have the original A07, and you can definitely run a sub with it (2.1) if your sub has speaker level inputs. If so, double up the wires out of the amp, with a set going to the two speakers, and the other set going to the sub’s speaker level inputs. Done.
@@EricWebSurfermy subs just have a LFE RCA input
Thanks Matt! I love my Aiyima 07 MAX - very good bass response with the stock 36 V PSU. Ordered the 48 V Aiyima PSU and returned it the same day, it robbed the amp of all the good bass it produced with the stock 36 V PSU. It was the same model Fossi Audio sells theirs for double the price - (AIYIMA DC48V 5A GaN Power Supply Adapter for TPA3255 from Amazon). Maybe the non GaN version would be better, but that's for another day. Sparkos first ;) I was curious, how come do your speaker wires have two wires going to each terminal (+/-) so four wires total for only 2 terminals +/- ? I'm very baffled by this, have never seen that before. Thx!
Unless if it's split and twisted to keep the noise away, but still single wire connection at the ends...
It’s called a star quad pattern, it suppose to reduce capacitance in this configuration. The cable is canare 4s11w, I honestly couldn’t say if there is an impact but either way it’s a nice cable. This was a DIY cable I put together, have a video coming on it.
What are your thoughts on running this in mono for a sub amp? I have some old car stereo subs I'd like to repurpose. If not this model any suggestions? These tiny amps have me curious to try one.
Thanks!
If running mono, does it matter which amp the sub is connected to?
Great review. I can't get my hands on the SMSL su8s…can I use the 9s instead?
Yes, absolutely, the 8s is a bit of an older model.
Nice!
For real though you could get a third in stereo for the Sub if your pre amp allows.
How about a review of those Polk LSiM703 you have. I'm curious as to how they have held up over time to the new offerings since they where released and discontinued.
I can tell you they have held up well, built to a higher standard than most products you get today at its price range.
Can the Aiyima amplifiers in mono mode be driven by an external real preamplifier, such as the wonderful Topping Pre90 (with remote control)?
Certainly can!
Im looking to build the css torri kit, I have a question regarding the amplifier? Will such an amplifier be sufficient? or what would you recommend in this price range?
I have a pair of the Torri's here, this amp will drive them.
Why do you ever want to switch them off ? Better to leave them permanently on ????
I personally turn them off.
If I'm adding this to a receiver, do you think there would be an appreciable difference or should I save up for the Sabaj A20 or something like an Emotiva BasX?
That depends on the receiver...
Like Douglas_Blake mentioned it does greatly depend on the receiver but in many cases yes this will be an improvement.
I wonder how they would sound on 24v? A pair so monoblocks! I live on a boat why not power from 2x100a in series so 24v deep cycle batteries. I think batteries=cleaner power , maybe i will consider getting two in netherlands i have seen them as cheap as 68 euros each with free shipping.
I believe 18 volts is the minimum for the 3255 so that part would be covered, I really can’t say for certain though haha
i know its been done before with some of the earlier digital chinese amps with great results someone did it with the tripath amp@@MattCoykendall1
GM☕️….listening.
GM!
How do I hook up the sub out?
These aren't really "mono blocks", just stereo amps that can be bridged.
Also how many takes on the same amp chipset and configuration do we need? Small improvements are improvements I guess but I'd rather see something different in terms of features rather than small iterations of the same thing. True power amps (with no volume control) and a separate pre-amp with 3+ inputs and 2 pre-outs or a single preout and subwoofer out with a remote is really what I'd like to see come out from one of these companies to give people a entry-level entry into separates. Right now the cheapest option is Schiit Saga and Vidar and while those are a excellent value they are still out of reach for many.
The TPA3255 chip has a Parallel Bridge Tied Load (PBTL) mode which parallels channels and gives you a true bridged monoblock amplifier.
Probably the most exciting change here is getting the output filter coils away from the large metal mass of a heat sink. On some earlier designs, the coils were right up against the heat sink where they caused eddy currents and cross-coupling between coils... this is clearly better.
I'd say to look for your wish list coming in the near future. These guys are still learning how to make power amps that actually work right... it will get better.
It’s certainly a journey but things are getting better, if anything it’s entertaining to watch the revisions and who innovates.
@Douglas_Blake_579 Nice technical insight. So there is two TPA3255s in this amp to make the bridgeable thing possible?
And yeah, you do see them getting better. Its a similar thing with the bike industry where 95% of the carbon fiber frames and wheels are made for western brands. They've gotten very good at designing and making their own wheels, and pretty good at frames but they still lag behind building their own drivetrain components. It seems to be a similar thing here where they constantly iterate different new versions of essentially the same thing until they eventually get it.
@@PhillioDoede
No. There is one TPA3255 in each.
Grab the "TPA3255 Spec Sheet" (google is your friend) and you will see the chip itself is 4 independent amplifiers that can be configured in a number of useful ways ... 4 x se, 2 x se + 1 btl, 2 x btl, 1 x pbtl ... according to your needs.
Almost all of the current TPA3255 amps are already bridged, running in 2 x BTL (Bridge Tied Load... or Bridged) mode. In the Mono mode the chip is reconfigured to 1 x PBTL (Parallel BTL) mode so that the 4 amplifiers are working as 2 pairs to form a bridge, but paralleled for more current output.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 Good info, thanks!
How many op amps in this Aiyima A07 MAX ?
Based on the tear down in the video ... 2, near Matt's thumb in the pictures.
So how many opamps you need for running dual monoblock. 4 Sparkos 3306 ? Can we get away with just 2 expensive sparkos for 2 monoblock.
There are 2 op-amps in each. I wouldn't want to change them as anything but a full set...
Dual or single?
@@giulianof8687
The NE5532 is a dual op-amp so you will want to replace them with duals.
You would only need to install one op amp per unit in mono block configuration. The op amp closest to the front of the unit are the ones that get swapped out.
@@michaelwright1602
Do you know this for fact?
I've seen a lot of speculation about chip-flipping in these dual mode amplifiers and most of the time the results are less than thrilling.
I would sooner see someone replace all of the ne5532 chips with something else. I will commonly replace them with RC4558s or TL072s and get a pretty good result for just pennies per chip.
The point is that the $100 op-amps are not necessarily better ... it's the ne5532s that are worse.
Is this the best budget stereo amp?
Right now it’s one of the best options in this price range
I’m not buying anymore of these amps with the power brick, could someone please build one with a built in psu!!
Wiim Pro Amp is has the PSU built in and is pretty nice. Basically the Wiim Pro Plus with a amp on it.I have one and like it quite a bit. Sounds good to my ears.
Do you have any revommendation on pure power amps without volume control?
I know you're asking Matt ... I hope you don't mind if I toss in my 2 cents worth...
If you know your line levels are fully compatible, a volume control is a luxury. But if there is a level mismatch between the output of your pre-amp stage and the input of the power amplifier, a volume control is necessary to adjust gain and prevent excessive clipping.
I don't know about the MAX ... haven't tested one yet, but on the A07 classic and the various FOSI versions the input level for clipping with a 36 volt supply is about 1.3 volts RMS. The TB10D and A07 Pro are a bit more sensitive, needing only 800mv for clipping.
So best bet... see if you can find (or measure) the output from your previous stage and base your decision on that.
Where would I obtain these amps?
Almost any online vendor ...
A link is in the description
Can I ask a dumb question? If for example my ELAC Unifi52s are rated for max 150w, would putting them on 2x A07 MAX Mono blocks with 48V power supply mess them up?
Probably not.
However; if you play a lot of "brick walled" content from the loudness wars or tons of deep bass passages, you might have problems at extreme high volumes.
Just keep the volume sane, and you should be okay.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 Thanks for this. And the tip on your other comment. Got a pack of TL072s for my 2 new A07 Max's on order.. I'll be careful with volume.. I doubt this will sound better than my A2M mini... Or will it?! lol, ah the joys.
@@Eron55555
You're welcome.
Don't be surprised if the two amplifiers sound more alike than different. Both are very well made products.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 Really eh!? The A2m is class a/b but only 50wpc .. I have some Energy RC-70s that will likely enjoy the power of the 2 A07s...
@@Eron55555
Even with the 48 volt supply you're not going to get much more than 100wpc rms from the TPA3255 chip. Yes it will produce more power... but also a lot more distortion. That's only a 3db boost over the A2m ... barely noticeable.
FWIW... the 300wch rating is the chip's absolute maximum which is at more than 10% distortion. You might get 300 out of it... once.
Every amp NEEDS a sub out that is volume controlled, i don't understand why they'd not have this, do they want to sell these things?
Stereos have no need for sub-sonic signal handling in musical instrument playback because there are no sub-sonic instruments.
Obtain a cheap pair of passive PA style 15" bass cabs (eg. Rockford) & a cheap pair of 2-way crossovers around 200 Hz from parts express with a variable resistor (volume) in the low frequency circuit.
The results will sound more satisfying than some silly sub-crawl in the corner. It's kinda' cheating a way into a full range 3-way.
Reggae, Funk & Brass 🔈🔉🔊
They're selling them by the thousands. That amplifier itself goes down to 3 or 4hz. It's the passive speakers that can't make the trip.
You can always use the "high level" speaker relays on your sub to extract any low frequency output... amp to sub-high-level to speakers.