DIY Craftsman Door Casing
Vložit
- čas přidán 1. 07. 2020
- In this video, we will finish up the basement door install by making some custom craftsman style trim. I'll show you the basics on how to do it and then you can trick it out to your heart's content.
If you like this video please subscribe and sign up for notifications. You can also check us out and follow us on our website or social media.
Web: www.swbah.com
Follow us on Twitter @SWBAH1
Instagram: swbah_ny
Pinterest: SWBAH
Facebook: / swbah
#DIYTrim
#DoorCasing
#Craftsman
#SWBAH
#SoWeBoughtAHouse - Jak na to + styl
My wife and I got a quote of $6,000 to put in new baseboards and door trim. That brought me here! haha Great video. Thanks so much!
Hopefully the video helped. Trim and baseboards aren't really hard it. Just take your time and make careful cuts. Also cross you fingers and hope your drywall is straight. Mine never is :). I'm working on a baseboard trim video and a custom radiator cover video so stay tuned!
Hey Robert! Just curious- do you mind sharing what the linear feet of baseboards and number of doors you changed? I’m in the process of getting a quote for the same process but your quote at $6000 doesn’t mean much without some context- wondering what route you ended up going and if you saved enough money to warrant doing it yourself (if you did). Appreciate any insight you have!
@@ryan_abraham $6000 includes cost of labor, materials, tools, and their know-how.
The biggest cost that you can save on is labor and experience charge, IF you already have the necessary tools to do the job (FYI you don't absolutely need a nail gun for trim work).
If you have the tools required, you'll likely save yourself 50-60% of a $6000 quote. Less than that the more you mess up on cuts or any other mistakes that would incur additional material purchased.
@@kylecromwell2654 Hey Kyle! Thanks for the reply. Just to clarify, the $6,000 did *not* include the materials/supplies. Now- I am just doing MDF baseboards and they are not that pricey, but the quote was for labor only (which includes the use of their equipment and most importantly, knowledge). But I've done some basic baseboard work in a previous home and for *me personally* (this is not everyone), feel the work I've been able to do does not justify a $6,000 fee. That is not to diminish that persons skills and years of experience at all, but in many things we do in life, we make a calculated decision as to whether our time and money and skill level is more or less valuable than paying someone else to do it. So other than the time I am forfeiting to do it, and as you mentioned, probably a little extra waste because I'll have some trial and error, I am saving myself pretty much all of that 6k quote. Now for other projects I had done around the house, I absolutely lay out the money for someone with more skill and experience to do it.
@@ryan_abraham yikes.. 6k for labor is insanity. I imagine you saved quite a bit
Thank you! I just got an old house and was looking for door trim to accentuate the character. You broke it down very simply and thank you for including the over hang dimensions, the names and closeups of the small trim pieces.
Glad I could help! Let me know if you have any questions and good luck on your project!
I just got through installing 3 doors. I'm thinking of replacing my door casing.
You just convinced me removing my hardware before i start painting. I was thinking of masking it at first. Great video! Thanks!
Glad I could help. It is really easy to remove the hardware and honestly I think it is faster. You can also paint the door somewhere where if it drips it won't get on your floor, etc.
Great Video! I love how he made sure and outline how to make it not look sloppy and lazy by removing the hardware first.
Glad you liked it!
I love craftsman style! Great easy instructions. Thank you
Glad you like them!
Thanks for sharing this. I have always liked this look for door trim and the black hardware too. 💯
I agree on the black hardware. I want to change the rest of the house now, but my wife might kill me :)
This video is the BEST on CZcams. I should know I've been watching them all lol. This is is the best one hands down.
Thanks Peeta! you made me blush :). We have been a little delayed on new videos because of a new family addition, but I have a project in the works that will compliment that video soon.
Thank you for this video! Showing every single step, and every single piece of material you used makes this the most useful video I have found on this! So many other videos skip a step or what they used. Can't wait to build my new door.
Thank you so much. If you have any questions during the build feel free to reach out. I’m happy to help.
Love this, thank you. I have a simple country add on house that isn't special. But I'm trying to give it a craftsmen feel. I'll be doing exactly this same trim. 👍👍
Let me know if you have any questions or need some help :).
Looks great, very easy to follow the walkthrough. Thanks!
Glad it helped. It is also a real easy project to modify by changing the the trim or routing the edges. You can really make your own design very easily.
Drinking game!
Every time he says, "Go ahead," Drink!
Thanks for the video. It was exactly the idea inspiration I was looking for.
Totally up for making a drinking game out of it lol. I shoot by myself out of order and broken up sometimes. By habit I start each step as a new clip. I need a new bridge expression :). We should have a vote.
Nice work Bro…Classic and timeless. Attention to detail goes along way! Thx for posting your work.
Thanks for the compliment. I hope to have more new videos soon!
Love it! So classy!!
Thanks so much 😊
I wanted to construct that sort of trim casing and watched 20 tutorials, but nothing came close to being as straightforward as this one, Thank you
Hi Edgar. Thank you so much. If you have any question just let me know!
Thank you, Thank you for the step by step on how to create this look.
You are so welcome!
Thank you for this video. I can now duplicate two door casings torn down in previous demo.
Glad I could help!
Looks great, adds character
Thanks!
Very well explained-made things look manageable for the general non - diy person . Thanks
Good morning Bernadette. I hope you comment means you are going to try the project! If you have any questions, just ask. Once you get this project done, I have videos on how to do the matching radiator cover and wall panels if you like that look.
Great video was looking for this not to complicated but a little style to it this is an excellent choice basic and add some trim
Thanks. I try to keep the design basic to encourage people to try it, but you can definitely fancy it up if you want to.. fluted columns are a cool detail as are shop made trim profiles if you want to get more advanced, the jive thing is the assembly is always similar.
Awsome video, was gonna buy the header but it looks easy. Thank you
It's actually very easy and you can customize it. It is also pretty cheap so a wrong cut won't cost you a fortune. If you need any help or advice, let me know.
Nice job Ken !
Haha - Thanks Damian!
Great 👌 job! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Thanks, I just had my kitchen redone and the contractor framed my door with some regular edge molding. I'm going to rip that off and put my own trim up using this video
Awesome, let me know if you get stuck and need an advice. It is pretty easy though. It is also pretty cheap to put together so a mistake in a cut won't be the end of the world. I think my cost was around $20 on this project.
Thank you for a great tutorial!
You're very welcome! If you have any questions, let me know.
Thank you. I appreciate the tips.
You are so welcome!
Wow. Great video!
Thanks so much, If you have any question let me know. I also did a video on radio covers and wall paneling to match this trim. Good luck on your project. I'm sure you will rock it!
Thumbs up before I watched the video just because I liked the intro of how you included your family and pet.
That is very much appreciated. The channels launched for family and friends to see the renovation and projects around the house. I try to update the intro each year to show how much everyone has changed, especially how fast the kids are growing up.
Let me know, if you have any questions on the project. I'm happy to answer anything.
I like this door trim alot.
@RSH Takes so much - Are you going to try the project?
Very creative, love it!
Glad you like it! Let me know if you have any questions.
beautiful, thank you!😊
You going to try it ;) if you do let me know if you have any questions.
Great video getting sick of mitres and I like that look thanks for the wxplanation
You bet. You can modify this design pretty easily to scale it to room heights, etc. It also looks really good with wall paneling like wainscott or board and baton. If you have any question, let me know.
Outstanding!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Holy crap this is amazing!!!
Thank you so much - If you decide to try and have any questions, I'm happy to help!
@@SoWeBoughtaHouse I do have a question. I have a door in order to open it you have to open it into the room. I want to be able to pull the door open. Is this something that’s possible to do
I love that look.
Thanks - It is really easy to do. The painting is the most tedious part. Can you tell I hate painting :)
@@SoWeBoughtaHouse Bet you don't hate it half as bad as I do. It's the cleaning up that is the worst part.
When you said lattice, I thought you meant like the sheets of lattice lol, and wondered how that was going to work. I'm going to watch again, because you went quite fast on the top part, and I'm not sure how I missed what you did to get the little side piece. Also, where the little trim went. Maybe I''ll get it next time?
Hi Pearl - sometimes it is a challenge to make the video detailed enough to follow and short enough for people to have time to watch. You can definitely play it again and like anything you catch more the second time around. But I also check comments regularly and am happy to help if you get stuck.
I worked for a finishing carpenter in college and we did basic fluted casings on everything. Loved seeing the craftsman style in action. The development I worked on was super basic with the techniques I learned. You have a new subscriber. 😃
Very cool! Thanks Rachel! I have some new videos in the works and can't wait to hear what you think.
Awesome !
Thank you! Cheers!
I found out the hard way to take door hinges apart when hanging the door. It is too easy to screw up the mortise for the hinge on the frame or door when trying to mount the door and screw in the hinges vs putting the hinge pin back in.
I have a mat I fold and put under the door or just rest it on my sneaker, but there is nothing wrong with taking the hinge out. I like your point though for a lot of people removing the pin would be an easy approach. Though getting the hinge pin out on some of these new doors isn't very easy,
nice job good video
Thanks!
I love this. We’ve been in our house for almost 20 years not making many changes bc we built it to sell, then the housing market crashed. Now, it’s so competitive, you have to find a house and sell yours on practically the same day, lol. We’ve decided to stay awhile longer and since my style is really craftsman, I’m slowly changing my sadly generic details by replacing my doorframes, mantle, mounding, etc. I love the door frames you’ve created here, but I’d like to move to a stain and away from paint. Can you recommend good options or tweaks to use unfinished wood that could be beautifully stained?
I really enjoyed the video. Unlike others where you have to pause or try to move your head around to see a step even though you know it didn’t make it into the shot, I could see just what to do.
I'm so glad I could help. So for staining all the building steps are the same, Be really careful with your cuts though because you won't be able to fix small mistakes with filler and paint. As far as wood goes, the easier options are going to be red and white oak, they both look beautiful stained in my opinion. They are also fairly easy to find. But any hardwood would work. Another thing with hardwood is it is less flexible. Make sure your walls are flat before you start or you might just get frustrated. If you have any other questions let me know.
I agree with you on painted hinges, but I’m kind of lazy.
If you tape, messy, to completely cover the hinge (tape beyond the hinge) and then use a utility knife (using the hinge as a guide) to cut the hinge outline, you should be left with tape just on the hinge. Taping the hinge pin any way you can; usually “wrap” tape and then close the front. A demo is clearer, but I’m lazy.
It can be taped as you say, but removing the door is easy and I think makes it easier to paint. Regardless of the method, don't paint the hinges :).
I disagree that removing the door is easier, especially older or heavier doors.
If the door requires significant work - sanding, etc - then removing the door is a good idea, but if it just requires a fresh coat of paint; then taping hinges is easier.
I do remove door knobs because it’s more time consuming to tape than to remove.
The strike plate can be taped like the hinges.
Caveat: if I am painting or working on whole house, then all doors and hinges are removed; privacy at a work site, except for bathrooms, is not my concern.
I too find painted hinges and the like an assault to sensibilities. 🤢
Speaks more than Works sick vídeo
Thanks, I think :)
I'm about to do a very similar type casing around our house. I have 1 x 4s for the sides, but instead have 5/4 x 5 header, with a 1 x 2 cap. I think I have those same exact door handles, kwikset? They're nice. All our old doors and trim was dark brown oil stain from the 70s. Previous owner painted light pink on one side of some of the doors, over the hinges, like one coat. Looked so bad. New white doors totally transforms the place. Worth it in the long run.
I agree. We hard dark stained wood doors. The basic builder grade stuff. Putting new white doors and trim made everything pop and look cleaner and brighter. Yes, I do believe those were the quickset hardware. They also look nice. I did the brushed stainless on the top floors. I kind of wish I did black throughout the house now. Good luck on your project. I'm sure it will look great. I like the overhang look with the larger header.
Hey, great video! I noticed that the end pieces looked like they were cut at an agle with triangular pieces at cap ends, could you detail how you did that in another video?
Hi Sumiko. Are you talking about the detail trim under the cap that run along the header board? Check the video at about 6:30. The molding is just a trim, so I use a 45 degree miter cut.
Let me know if thaat answers your question. If not take a screen shot of the piece and email me a swbah.ken@gmail.com. I'd be happy to help you figure it out.
This video really helped me start my casings. I'm a little stuck now that I have most of them done but have a few with obstructions left to do. Did you run into this and how did you deal with it?
I have 100 percent run into that problem. A lot of the door in my house as well as windows are very close to the corners. I even have two windows were the sills touched on the corner. There are lots of ways to deal with it. The most simple is usually to scare the casing down to make it fit, but it really depends on the type of obstruction you have. For scaling I like bigger casings near 4 inches. But in my basement the entry door has an obstruction and will only fit 3 inches. So I just used smaller pillars on that door. No one notices since is isn't right next o any other door or window. The option is to see if you can just embrace the obstruction and build it into the design and the most difficult would be to see if you can remove the problem. If you send me an email and I'm happy to see if any ideas pop into my head that can help you.
This is a great video! I'm doing the exact same trim around a large 6 foot wide entryway between my kitchen and a den (no door, just entryway. Question 1: You indicate the vertical pieces are 1x4's. I'm assuming this is the standard size (actually 3/4" x 3 1/2"?) & same w/ the other pieces (1/4 less on thick / 1/2 inch less on width)? Question 2: The base piece you indicate as a "lattice." What's the thickness. I didin't know you could get lattice pieces as singles. Couldn't find it in home depot. Appreciate your help!
Hi Eric - I'm glad you enjoyed the video and I hope it helps you with your project. You are correct all the sizes I mention for the lumber are the nominal sizes so the pieces are slightly smaller than that. You can easily adjust this project to use different dimensional lumber if you want. For instance if the pass-way you are talking about is huge you might want to use bigger sides and tops. You can find the lattice at home depot usually in the wood trim area area or the detail molding section. It might be marked as lattice but could also be marked wood lathe or 1.5 x 5/16 trim lumber. Most any lumber place will have this. Good luck. Also if they tell you they don't have it - look yourself - the stores have a lot of turnover these days. It is sold usually by the foot if I remember correctly.
One thing to point out. your door was primed, meaning it's probably a "first time use" door. For people planning on painting/ recasting a new door, it best to glue some toothpicks in the existing screw holes in the door. The more a door is removed the better the chance for the screw holes to be stripped is. Good job on the casing 👍
Thanks for the tip on the toothpicks. Yes this door was completely new. There was actually no door in that location when I started. In a different video I showed the install. So this was brand new frame and all and pre drilled and assembled with hardware installed. I just changed the hardware when I took it off. I had older doors that were held on more by paint than the screws so I didn't even think about the stripping issue since I was tossing them all for new slabs. If it is ok I'd love to mention the toothpick trick next time I door door video.
What do you do for short walls where the doors aren't centered and close to a corner? I have multiple doors close to inside corners preventing me from having the overhang on the top details. The builders of my house were smoking something I'm sure...
Do an of the doors butt up against each other? You can make the top span them. The other option is to cut the side that is short flush with the wall. I've had similar issue here. I literally have side by side windows in corners where there isn't even three inches to the wall.
Hello, looks great. What kind of wood did you use for the casing and what profile is it?
I used primed pine since I was painting it, but you could use anything. This was a really simple build to show the steps and not look intimidating. The only part that had a profile was the trim piece and that was just something I found in the shoe molding section of the box store. They all carry something similar. You could use cove or quarter round as well. You can use fluted side pieces if you like or other profiles. You just need a flat top to put on that craftsman style cap. If you want to keep it simple just use 1x4 or 1x3 depending on how thick you want the casing and lattice to make the little ledge.
Nice
Thanks Cheryl. Let me know if you have any questions. Happy Holidays!
THANK YOU, question, I find that using a - 1x4 - and not reg skinny deco casing I needed to get long size - strike plates what size did you use
That is a good question!. You are correct the strike plate would not clear a 1x4 if you bought the casing right up to the door frame. the hinges would also be a a problem. To solve that I used a 1/4 reveal around the entire door. This is enough spacing for both the hinges and the strike plate to fit.
Of course, this is a very simple example of a casing. you could route the inside of the frame to make it more decorative and give you more space for the strike plate and a smaller reveal if you want.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Beautiful work! did you do the casing before the floor? I couldn't
tell from the video. Im try to decide which one goes first , floor or door casing? Thanks!
If you are doing a new floor do that first. That way the casing is flush to the floor. If you do it the other way around you need use a flush cut saw to cut the casing to the floor and you can also run the risk the floor has a gap to the casing.
This looks great! What was the name or the WM number of the decorative moulding you used instead of cove? I've looked everywhere and can't seem to find that shape.
I'm not sure off hand. It was something similar to this.
www.homedepot.com/p/Alexandria-Moulding-3-4-in-x-1-1-4-in-x-96-in-Knotty-Pine-Panel-Cap-Moulding-3244A-700RLC/205576645
I picked it up at home depot. It was the only non-cove panel cap that they carried in the store. I need to head there later today. If I see it, I'll grab the number for you.
@@SoWeBoughtaHouse I think that piece might have to be less than 3/4 in order to get the reveal of the top 1x2. 3/4 would make it flush and yours looks like it has about a 1/4 reveal. I think that molding needs to be 1/2 x 1 and 1/4
@@user-yr4os6jz4r All the main pieces except the detail trim were 1x material which is 3/4 inches thick. The lattice piece is 1 inch wide. The top is a 1x2 flipped on its side. I just posted a photo on instagram of one in my basement. This one hasn't been sanded and painted yet (it looks much better once it is, but this is the only one I could get a quick picture of for you) so it looks rough but should give you an idea of the dimensions. I wish you could post photos in CZcams comments. It is is kind of hard to describe in text alone. Let me know if you have any other questions.
instagram.com/p/CazzcVDu12E/
Great video, audio is well done and even, content easy to follow, good pace, only suggestion is the intro sequence is a bit long
Thanks Sam, I always trying to work on making the videos more interesting and as concise as possible, especially the how-to video. Personally I really hate when I need a two second explanation and have can only find 40 minute videos on CZcams. It can be a hard.balance especially with the time it take s to edit each one. I really appreciate the feedback and please keep it coming. Constructive feedback is really motivating to improve each new video!
@@SoWeBoughtaHouse Then get rid of the long ass intro. And, the audio isn't even. Your dialog is only coming in left side mono.
In what world are you so used to seeing paint on door hinges so much you're ranting about it lol.
Haven't bought a house recently have you :). I've also seen cars painted with spray paint.
What size baseboard do you then use for a room with this style of trim?
I'm glad you asked!
Generally I use a 1x6" molding with a decorative shoe and cap. I've also used paneling to go with it and customized a wood radiator cover. And I just so happened to record the process :)
You can find those designs here.
czcams.com/video/5d0Qm8wiejs/video.html
and here.
czcams.com/video/rZ877lA0qiU/video.html
Let me know if this gives you any ideas and feel free to right back if you have questions or just what to talk through how you can put something together.
👍
TY!
How do you handle the header if the door jam isn't even with the drywall?
@Rod Brewster
Is the Jam protruding out or is the drywall protubing out and by how much? Is this being caused by a 2x4 jam installed in a 2x6 wall? Let me know how it is set up. I have a few tricks for fixing it.
This looks great thank you for sharing. Do you have a link for the tool that you used?
The Kreg Tool?
@@SoWeBoughtaHouse yes
so it would probably make sense to make that top piece in bulk and then go around and add it onto all the door frames
Do you mean make one long piece and just cut it to fit over each door or just pound out one for each door while you have the tools set up?
whats the name of the tool you were using to measure the 1/4 inch
It was the Kreg Multi-Mark. It is a great little tool for the price. Here is a link to it.
www.kregtool.com/shop/hardware-installation/measuring/multi-mark/KMA2900.html
Is the piece of lattice 1/8 inch thick?
Lattice is 3/8". Of course your could use any thickness you want to get different looks. I hope that helps.
Did you nail the casing with a 18 gauge brad or 15 gauge finish nailer?
Hi Austin. I used 18 gauge to nail the detail parts together to not spit anything but used the 15 gauge to attach it to the wall. Let me know if that helps.
@@SoWeBoughtaHouse that’s exactly what I need to know. Thanks !
Did you do this for every interior door in your home?
Hi Six. I did this on the 5 basement doors. The upper floors have a different style to them and had some nicer molding already in place.
Are there any “rules” or best practices when trimming out a door and/or entryway where the one side is close to a wall and won’t allow a full 1x4? Should you make both sides the same width or is it common to have a 1x4 on the one side and whatever can be fit on the other?
Hi Victor, Sorry for the slow reply. The best practice would be for builders to install doors with enough room to install nice molding :). Seriously though, I have the same issue in my house and I think a lot of other people do as well. Unfortunately, I don't have a great answer for you. Most commonly I have seen people just cut the molding short as you suggest. Sometime this looks fine and can be almost unnoticeable in certain situations depending how much you have to trim one side down.
I think the answer is situational though. I have used different size casings in some rooms so they fit against the wall and look even on both sides. In one spot I have two adjacent windows and I made the casing so it bridges the corner in between with a flat panel and then put the 4-inch casing around the whole thing with a 90 degree miter in the middle to make it look like both windows are a single unit single similar to a bay window. I have another area where I'm actually considering running board and batten paneling to the height of the doors, so the doors appear to be cut out of it. Ultimately, I think you need to be creative and try a few things to see what looks best. Dry fit some pieces and play around.
Of course, if you want you can always feel free to send me a picture at swbah.ken@gmail.com and I'd be happy to give you my best I'm not a designer but I play one on TV advice on what I think might work.
Take it as a creative challenge and you'll come up with something you will be very proud of.
I would put full size trim where you can and rip it down to fit where you can't. Generally up in a corner nobody notices.
@@semosancus5506 I've done that and it works fine. Make sure you dry fit it first and take a look from different angles. Also simpler trim is harder to notice that more ornate trim. good luck, I'm sure you will make it look great!
Why are you grimacing when using the brad nailer, the nailer does all the work. :)
That brad nailer bites :) actually I don’t know, but that video might have been filmed after u pulled my back out. For a while it hurt to lift any weight past my chest.
What paint color do you have on your wall? Looks like a nice shade of blue
Hi Vanessa, I thought it would be a little kidzy, which was fine since it was going on in a playroom, but it has really grown on me. The color is Waterfall with an Eggshell base from BEHR(Home Depot).
It looks nice. I think I will use that for my son’s bedroom wall. Thanks for the video. Super helpful!
You are welcome!
Why is the audio only on one channel?
I used Lav mics t o make the voice clearer but they record mono for a single mic. I could have double the track but I got a weird hiss in Premiere. I've had a lot of issues using Premiere to export videos for CZcams including the way it blurs the beginning of the video. I'm working on it though, If you or anyone else has seen good tutorials on exporting videos for CZcams from Premiere, let me know.
Where did you get that piece of moulding from?
The small trim piece was from Home Depot. They have similar profiles in a lot of places though. I can look up the SKU if you can’t find it.
I also used the same piece on the wall panels that you make to go with it
DIY Wall Panelling - Challenge Accepted! -- How you can add a high class finish to any room!
czcams.com/video/5d0Qm8wiejs/video.html
@@SoWeBoughtaHouse thanks so much for the quick reply! Im gonna check out HD in the morning. Ty!
@@Adam-to9gp No Problem Adam. It can sometimes be a little hard to find, but check nears the cove and other trim moldings, It is sometime hidden wit hte shoe molding as well.
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
:) TY
You glued a painted piece of wood? The bare piece, glue will bond and be great, but the glue will dry to that paint and with almost any amount of force, break that latex bond to the wood… but nice work for real, just through me off maybe you did something idk about.
Hi Steven - thanks for pointing that out. What I did wasn’t best practice in hind sight and I should have explained what I did better. The boards were pre-primed but not latex painted at the glue joints. The primer isn’t a very good coating that you get on the box store boards so the glue has always held for me. I also Brad nailed everything. I really but the glue in as a backup and it helps fill it little gaps that can be painted over later.
I’ve never had any issue with doing it this way for trim work, probably because of the nails and the fact trim doesn’t get that much stress on the joints. To get the best glue joint I should have sanded off the primer at the joint. Once everything is installed I caulk the joints and paint everything. So far I haven’t had any issues knock on wood :)
@@SoWeBoughtaHouse you can glue primed wood together, I guess as long as the wood fibers can connect and the glue can bond them, but like you said, you did not use a latex paint. That’s probably the most important part but no matter what your work always looks really good!
@@steventyler2813 Thanks Steven, much appreciated! Your comment actually gave me idea to maybe do a test to see how much glue hold is compromised by paint, primer and stain. I pretty sure everyone from time to time has made that kind of mistake. I'm curious how bad it really would be. Latex would be a disaster, but I wonder about the primer.
I need to figure outa test method, mayne hangin weights.
Hi, do I need a reveal on a window trim?
Technically it is an aesthetic choice, so your windows won't fail out or fail to function if you don't. On a door you could have issues with closing as the wood expands in the summer. That said a 1/4" is kind of standard and without the reveal it might not look right. It depends on the the molding though, Our brains are really good at picking out things that are different even if they can't discern what is different. My suggestion is to keep the reveal consistent with the doors. What is the reason you don't want the reveal?.
@@SoWeBoughtaHouse the windows are not even so the reveal is uneven 🤦🏾♀️. It’s driving me crazy lol
Do they move in and out or are they just out of plum and level but otherwise straight? If they are straight you can change the angle of the trim cuts, but if they waiver all over ... Well there is no easy option but you can fix it. If the inside wall is drywall you can build it up compound and use a straightedge to get it flat or if you have room you can try cutting 1/4 plywood and make a box to fit the inside of the window jam and then use that as your reveal by putting the casing aligned with it. Once you have the box, fill and sand and gaps between it and the original jam. Then paint it all your trim color.
@@SoWeBoughtaHouse thanks for all of the ideas 😃
you are welcome. Good luck with your project!
I went ahead and took a shot every time he said "go ahead" and I passed out before the end of the video This time around I'm gonna go ahead and watch with the sound off.
Go ahead and do that :)
The whole frame should have been pocket screwed or dowels or dominoed together as one unit before being installed. I would fire him and if he were my husband divorce papers would be served
Hi Matty's Mom.
Pocket screws and dowels make this a more complicated process and I was trying to show the basics. Of course, you could do either or both of those things and I highly recommend to do it if you have the time and can afford the additional tools. I love my Kreg K5 and will be using is soon on custom radiator covers.
But for the men and women out there that have multiple kids, negative free time a day and are more likely to have their significant others leave them for not finishing projects and leaving tools around around the house than inadequacies in master joinery, this technique worked pretty good for me :)
Realistically though, my house was built by professionals and I removed more than 600 linear feet of molding as I was replacing it and not a single piece had pocket screws or dowels. This molding was in place for more than 25 years with without falling off or cracking and was held in place by wire brads.
For those that want to try domino joining, here is a link to a joiner kit that is real nice. Just a tinge over $1000.
www.festoolproducts.com/power-tools/festool-domino-joiners/festool-domino-joiner-df-500-q-set-and-1-060-piece-tenon-assortment-systainer.html
And for anyone who wants to do economy pocket screws, here is a link to the K5 I use by Kreg. Kits here range from about $100-$200 plus the cost of hardware. Of course you will als need a drill to make the holes.
www.rockler.com/kreg-k5-with-260-piece-pocket-hole-screw-kit?gclid=Cj0KCQiApY6BBhCsARIsAOI_GjaIAo3jA64l4JoCVuC_E_OQslkk2j4xdy_TJuptYaI4eHpdgkd7w10aAgwtEALw_wcB
I have no affiliation with either of these two products or websites.
@@SoWeBoughtaHouse I was teasing. Well a little. I definitely think dominos is good but know many who would find pocket screws just as good. Great for custom wainscoting as well. It will never fall apart over the years. Seems stay nice n tight. But agreed you are probably fine without it. The door and molding looks great that you did. Nice job. I love the hardware you chose as well. Looks top notch and beautiful.
@@mattysmom2819 I figured. I was trying to joke back. We need more emotes for comments of CZcams :). I actually totally agree with you on the dominoes and pocket screws. I do run into a lot of issues though when I haven't framed the door myself. In this case I did actually put the door in so it was square. In other places where I was just replacing molding, things weren't so great. Often when I make the frame and screw it together I run into square problems. The frame is perfect and locked solid but not the door frame. It gets frustrating. I think for the average person trying to spruce up with new casings the look of there house. Nailing it and filling where needed with wood filler makes it easier to deal with out of square frames. It is not uncommon for doors and windows that look perfect to be off a little and really show it when you put a perfect 45 degree angle on it.
Your work was ok, the video was awful. Why stand in front of the door at the end if we can't see the work.
Sorry you didn't like it. I hope to live up to your expectations in the future.