Myth or Magic: Are Goodyear Welted Dress Shoes Overrated?
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- čas přidán 29. 06. 2024
- Is the quality of Goodyear welting just a myth or is it truly magical? We find out in today's video: gentl.mn/goodyear-welted-shoes
#goodyear #shoes #notsponsored
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→ Script: Jack Collins
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00:00 Introduction
01:11 History (Charles Goodyear, Jr.)
Learn why Goodyear Welting is considered one of the biggest innovations in the construction of footwear.
03:00 What is Goodyear Welting?
Let's get into the details of the construction method and why it's synonymous with quality shoes.
04:22 What's The Hype?
The term “Goodyear welting” itself is heavily utilized to sell shoes. What then is the problem with this?
05:25 Just how GOOD are Goodyear Welted Shoes?
Let's examine further whether Goodyear welting really is that good. We break down the aspects of the shoe itself which the Goodyear welting process doesn’t account for.
07:27 Assessing the Overall Quality
Know the important areas of the shoe that one should assess to determine its overall quality.
07:58 1. The Upper Leather
09:35 2. The Sole and Heel
12:30 3. The General Finish
12:55 What Alternatives Are There?
Although the Goodyear welting is undoubtedly the most talked-about construction method when it comes to shoemaking, there are several alternative methods of attaching the upper part to the sole of a shoe.
13:15 1. Blake Stitch
13:45 2. Blake Rapid Stitch
14:20 3. Hand Welting
14:50 4. Norwegian/Norvegese/Storm Welting
15:38 5. Cemented (Glued) Construction
17:10 Whom is Goodyear Welting For?
Let’s take a look at who Goodyear welting is best suited for.
19:31 Whom is Goodyear Welting NOT For?
Know the factors to consider might you be looking into a pair of shoes with a different construction method.
20:57 Myth or Magic?
What's our final verdict?
21:34 Outfit Rundown - Jak na to + styl
6:14 - I had a disagreement with a friend about the tag on his jacket’s arm (he was wearing a suit jacket he had just purchased). I told him they were made to be removed when purchased and were only there to deter people from buying the jackets for a one day wear, then return. He argued he kept his so people could see what brand he bought. Was I right? What’s going on with these tags on the arms?
You are completely right here.
You’re correct Farley. Besides, showing off the expensive brand you bought from is pretty tasteless and and showy.
No, those tags need to be removed. Just like the stitching on the vent and pockets
Nevertheless, there are many morons more like your friend. Dunno what they're thinkin' --- *if* they do be thinkin' *. . .*
Yes, those tags are to be removed, as we point out in our piece on 12 Suit Mistakes, found at the link. The clip in question was stock footage, but had we been involved in that photoshoot, you can be sure we'd have asked for that tag to be removed! :) www.gentlemansgazette.com/suit-mistakes-to-avoid/?
- Preston
This video is not only informative but relaxing.
At 5:55
If I knew in advance, I would have been watching in fullscreen mode. Preston only managed to clean a third of the screen😂
6:54
On that note though,
You can still find Raphael sitting in a corner with his pliers and a pair of 1000USD goodyear welted shoes here...
Preston, you’re a star! I’ve truly enjoyed watching your progress both in your presentation skills and in the refinement of your style.
I don't own any Goodyear welted shoes but all blake stitched because I mainly wear loafers. Super helpful video, gents! And I absolutely love the Spongebob meme at 19:11...had me dying!
Loafers can be Goodyear Welted, too. You're getting inferior quality by getting blake stitched. I have some Blake Stitched shoes, myself. I also own a dozen dress shoes - I liked some particular monk straps that happened to be Blake Stitched.
Generally speaking, the Italian school of shoes uses Blake Stitch. London, Paris, and many American fine shoe makers have adopted the Goodyear Welt.
I have owned both goodyear welted and blake stitched shoes in the past, and having recently purchased some goodyear welted loafers from Jeffery West, I must say that the break in period is brutal. I personally prefer goodyear welted on the whole, but if your looking for something comfortable out of the box, particulary with loafers, I would suggest sticking with blake construction. However if you, like myself, are a big fan of goodyear welted shoes, then don't let this deter you from investing in a pair! I am 10 wears in (roughly) now with these loafers and they're now reasonably comfortable even when walking to and from work without socks :)
@@alexsmith4155 Which brand/model of blake stitched loafers you own or recommend?
@@eyeheartsushi2212 I would probably suggest Ace Marks due to their range of colours and seemingly high quality materials (I'm not a leather expert by any means but the uppers seems to take polish well and also look great). Hawes and Curtis are also a good shout, however they lack the range of sizes and styles. Hope this was helpful :)
@@alexsmith4155 Thanks, Alex. Ace Marks has a pair of ankle-height monk strap boots that I haven’t seen elsewhere and have always been interested in. I might just have to order a pair. I didn’t know Hawes and Curtis made shoes but I have two of their shirts LOL. Thanks, again.
Edit: I believe I watched a video that shows the Ace Marks heels are not well constructed but I’m willing to take a chance because a heel should be easy to replace by a cobbler.
Love these videos. Concise and easy to understand. This is easily the best video explanation of welting types and considerations I have seen. Great job Preston. BTW really laughed at the elf or robot, enjoyed the Q&A. You seem to be a rather grounded and likable person.
Goodyear welts are far superior to glue and looks nicer than folding and stitching.
And it's far easier to repair/resole.
And no disgusting, unsightly leftover glue leakage and marks.
This is very good video. It's everything I have learned over the last year, so I added to my "Shop for boots like a pro" Playlist.
Please let Preston know that I think I love him
well he's married😁😁
19:05 😂😂😂😂
Really great to see the Trenton and Heath footage!!! Really awesome guys; their videos educated me on shoe quality and so now I cannot look at a pair of shoes without using what they’ve taught me
Thursday dress shoes aren't bad but I only wear them with jeans cause they're just not elegant enough for formal/dress wear. --------- Goodyear welted shoes give you a particular positive feeling you just can't get from glued shoes.
Very informative video! Thank you!
Preston you're an ace. Excellent presentation skills, keep up the good work. All the best.
You guys are the Greatest, always learn something new!
Wow great info. Thank you so much
Looking sharp Preston, love that tie.
Good video. And thankfully Preston wasn't freaking out about some car in the road that we can't hear anyway. ;-)
As for me, most of the shoes I own are Goodyear welt construction. This includes a half-dozen pair of boots, both dress and work. It is my first choice.
As a note, you did neglect to mention one point when speaking of blake stitch construction. I can't recall if you mentioned the limited number of times you can resole that type of shoe, but what you might caution people about them is locating a craftsmen who can resole them. Where I live I need to drive over an hour to another city to find a shop that has a blake stitch machine. While many work boots are Goodyear welted, and thus the shops around here have a stitcher for them, few people seem to buy blake stitch shoes, or at least of a quality that one would bother resoling.
I'm watching for a long time now. 5 years or so. I love how this video is put together. The narration and the inserts/detail shots that pick up the talked about theme. An absolute joy to watch!!
I just sent my Goodyear welted boots to the cobblers this past weekend and this video couldn’t have been better timed
What brand are your boots?
This information applies to more than just dress shoes. Last year my son purchased a pair of nice work boots from a trusted manufacturer. The soles were gone in less than 3 months. The store wouldn't accept a return after that amount of time. I suggested taking them to a cobbler. The cobbler said the company had changed hands. He was amazed that the uppers were high quality while the soles were made of a cheap polimer that only looked like rubber. Lucky for my son the boots were welted so the cobbler was able to resole them. If the soles had been glued on my son would have been out of a lot of money. Always pay attention to construction no matter how good a shoe or boot looks.
Nicely done 👍
Fantastic video!
Excellent video! Living in an area where the only cobbler to be found is a fruit dessert, I prefer quality shoes and have several of each type of construction. Some shoes are simply made to wear out and throw away.
All of my dress shoes are Goodyear welted even though, where I live, it's cheaper to get them Blake stitched. If you're as big as I am (6'3"), the welt acts as almost a pedastle for the rest of your outfit. Very fine lines can make a tall guys feet look like needles. Just my 2 cents.
Nice video and presentation
As always, very well done.
Hey, hey. Up to date. Ten years of vlogs watched in a month. Which reminds me I need some shoes repaired.
This was nice!
Though I love all of my British Goodyear welted shoes. I really fondness for my Italian made Norwegian welted shoes they just have lot of character to them.
Hello! What is your opinion on the brand Fioravanti? As I'm looking for a good quality vintage designer suit.
Thank you!
A few years ago i bought a new pair of expensive, heavy detailed Loake brogues,with leather soles and goodyear welting,just like my late father would wear, i persevered with them for around 3 years,but they were heavy,slidey,but most off all, uncomfortable as anything.i binned them.Some of the best boots / shoes i have are not welted ie. an old pair of Levis boots ive had for 10 years that were super comfy from day one.Clarks,Base London,Jones Bootmaker,all decent quality and comfy.I got in the sales 3 years ago,a nice pair of Goodyear welted Chelsea boots made forTed Baker co ,by an English maker and these came with leather stacked heels and rubber on top of the leather,these look great and handle the rain better here in the UK.
I've chosen to have the Dainite City sole in almost all of my Crockett&Jones shoes that I wear in my day-to-day life. I find them to be very sleek looking, and they provide a good amount of flexibility, albeit they are not as breathable as leather soles. Living in Finland where there often are rainy or just wet days during the season for these shoes, I find no reason to opt for the leather soles - why get the shoes, if wearing them in my current location is not an option. Of course with dress shoes that I wear only couple of times a year can have a leather sole, as I'm not walking around in them for hours many days a week.
Well I'm still wearing a 1980s AE Park Ave with original sole so yeah it sure does work. The Goodyear welt with leather sole is a good thrift store indication that the leather on the vamp is of high quality and will last
This question is like asking if internal combustion has been a useful thing to humans. The Goodyear welt was transformative for our footwear. And it’s still here as the good standard.
I just bought a pair of new-old-stock, storm welt, longwing, v-cleat bluchers in shell cordovan (Color 8 Cordovan). Yes, they are clunky and these "boats" are not for everyone, but I love them. (Not my only longwing.) Being v-cleat indicates that they are from 1972 or older, but they look like they rolled out of the factory yesterday. The brand? Tri-Wear. I've never heard of them either and their is no information on this brand on the web. Maybe a house brand, manufactured by one of the major companies? Regardless, they are a work of art. I'm in vintage shoe heaven! The price? $18 in a local thrift store!
Some years ago I found a neglected old pair of AE longwing tassel loafers sitting in a thrift store, having been reduced from $16 to $8 because they had been sitting on the shelf for so many months. Best $8 I ever spent. I gave them a thorough moisturizing and cleaning, and they look absolutely gorgeous now. I had them re-welted last year. Their previous owner had not been kind to them. Reviving an old pair like that and getting regular use out of them has been a great experience, and I wish I could find another pair of shoes like that
@@Gilamath. I also find giving life to something that was discarded to be very gratifying. I also like recalling a bygone era with my wardrobe. The longwing tassel loafer must of been a thing back in the day. I also have a pair of longwing tassel loafers made by Johnston & Murphy that are marked on the inside, Carroll and Co. I won them at an online charity auction. They are quite a different animal than the clunky boats described in my OP. They are Blake Stitch construction, and are very slim lightweight. Quite stylish IMO. They may be different, but I like both very much.
I already know the answer and what I want but I watch the video anyway. Good job Preston.
Happy Thanksgiving everyone from 🇨🇦
I think think more to the point is quality. Remember price is forgotten, long after quality remains.
Thursday isn’t bad, not great either. It’s what I view as a good entry level brand. Far better than what you get from modern legacy brand who today primarily sell cemented construction shoes for the same price. I mean they even have leather stacked heals on appropriate models.
I have 5 pairs of Thursdays. All amazing value - good bet for the money. That said the newer styles like the wingtip boots were not good. Weird shape, very poor finish. Sent that one back. Captain in brown, Scout in black and brown, tan suede Cavalier, black Duke are all amazing and I would recommend them completely. The wingtip was so bad it really shook my faith in the brand. Awful shape and even worse finish. Even the leather type looked and felt like plastic. It did not even seem to be made by the same company. Horrible. The others mentioned look and feel fantastic and I could not be happier. All purchased within the last 2 years, Captains purchased in the last 3 months so they are still making great shoes, just not the WT.
I also have AE Park Ave, 5th Ave and Hamilton boots and love all 3 as they are all the same 65 last. Hamilton's run a little bigger than the other 2, P-Aves and 5th-Aves run very narrow. 7D in most other shoes and 7EE almost EEE in the AE 65 last. Otherwise the Oxford lacing is very wide spread which I feel looks and feels terrible. Good oxford fit lacing is the "V" is ALMOST touching not a huge open "V", not tightly touching, no loose heel pocket - My opinion.
Thanks Preston
I know this about shoes but I wish you guys would do a video on the collar of teh shirt. I hate buying a dress shirt and when buttoned up I get a huge gape in the back of the neck when I tilt forward. I used to know a shop that carried the European Collar. You had to get the shirts custom tailored but it was worth the price. Also I know someone who gets their clothes custom made in Beijing. He gets 2 custom made suits and custom shirts made in the traditional European style but more like in the 20's and 30's not the shortcuts used in todays suit making. . .
l bought 100€ cemented shoes couple years ago (because there weren't other options available in that shop), and used them on special gatherings - twice. They fell apart. l got annoyed, and managed to rebuild it again with proper leather and adding coloring on it. Good enough for everyday shoe, but not anymore for special meetings.
A little off topic but if you can do a review on the Netflix show Peaky Blinders and what you think about their style
can you give specific advise on spotting otherwise not high quality but marketed as goodyear shoes?
Touch leather, if u can't see grain and pores, and the leather is like acrylic and thick, probably cheaper
I really hope that was a Reanimator reference at 6:52 😂
very interesting eye opening video
Thursdays aren’t terrible quality though, especially under $200.
The editing on these are getting sillier, I dig. I've been looking for Goodyear shoes at Goodwill for years and never found any. I finally ordered seconds because it's just too hard to find anything that might fit your foot shape used
This video was very informative and well-made. Is the Blake from Blake-stitching also the name of a gentleman who invented the technique?
Yeah
Yup. That would be Lyman Reed Blake, who invented the original machine that stitched soles in that manner.
Blake eventually sold his patent to (and ended up working for) a guy named Gordon McKay whose company manufactured improved versions of Blake's machine. That's why you'll sometimes hear the alternative term "McKay stitch" used.
@@kaikaichen Which method came first, Goodyear or Blake?
@@eyeheartsushi2212 according to Wikipedia, the Blake/McKay machine was invented around 10 years before Charles Goodyear Jr. Invented his machinery. But Blake stitching was essentially a completely new concept, while Goodyear welting was a mechanized version of the much older hand-welting method.
@@kaikaichen Interesting. Thank you!
Why didn't they mention sheepskin when listing leathers? It's the second most common type of leather, and I think it's really nice.
I have 3 pairs of shoes I bought to elevate my ward robe. 1 pair from Allen Edmonds, 1 pair from Idrese, and a pair from Beckett-Simonon. What level would you consider these shoes? I am new to higher end shoes and clothing, slowly upgrading my collection and my intention is to keep the newer items for decades.
They would be considered entry level but to be honest you can stay at that level for the rest of your life and have lots of fun with good quality shoes. That’s what I plan to do but one day I might treat myself to at least one higher tier pair.
@@eyeheartsushi2212 which brands do you consider to be higher tier?
@@ORIGINALDaveB Carmina, Crockett and Jones, Alden. There are others but at even higher tiers.
@@eyeheartsushi2212 👍
@@ORIGINALDaveB just get a hand made handsewn shoe, linear line, the quality construction, in Spain it cost 200-300$
I am a smaller Asian guy so I prefer blake rapids, since those allow a sleeker construction which is good for shorter guys :)
You can get very sleek shoes made with the good year welt, u gotta find the right shoemaker
I always get all my shoes hand welted they are much better then glued one
I have recently invested in GYW shoes and boots. Really like them. I am not yet giving up on all my cheaper (but waterproof) constructed casual dress shoes. Honestly the average person (not a shoe aficionado) would be hard pressed to see the difference between a well polished newer cap toe derby with glued soles and a GYW dress shoe. In fact study the shoes of people at business events or offices. Without a doubt the GYW will last longer but that's about it. I find something similar with dress watches. Other than understanding a brand like Rolex or maybe Omega - no one knows the difference between really expensive watches and a nicer but much cheaper dress watch.
Too bad you failed to mention the distinction between the 270* and the 360* Goodyear welt.
A 270-degree welt goes from the base of the heel, around the toe, and then to the base of the heel on the opposite side. A 360-degree welt goes completely around the shoe. The principles of Goodyear welting are the same, though, which is why there's no specific mention in the video ;)
I wish I knew the words to express how much I love your humor, Preston. Your cut-aways are well-timed, and the content is most satisfactory every time. Regarding that, this video is my favorite, thus far, Preston. Can I buy you a drink at karaoke night?
Been there, done that. He covered Metallica BTW. His air guitar was flawless and an unexpected bonus.
In what part of the country are the gentlemen of Gentleman's Gazette located?
Either the Silicon Valley or North Pole...see the video about Preston: Robot or Elf.
Preston puns are awesome
“Let’s talk about smartphones, which you might be using to watch this video”
HOW DID HE KNOW?!
meanwhile my goodyear welt cocorans leaking melted snow into my toes
You guys need to do a video on Thursday Boots!
Jonathan Veer makes Goodyear welted shoes for less than $200. Bridlen offers Blake stitched shoes for less than $100. All quality stuff.
1:35 footsteps huh... 🤭
19:04 😂 YES!!!!!
Next should be hand welt ;)
There's a youtube called Rose Anvil who's also a bootmaker, who does a LOT of deconstructions on shoes and boots... It's actually pretty educational in determining quality.
He only does boots and sneakers unfortunately. And anyway that doesn't tell the whole story. A lot of brands use lower quality leather for lining/insole/outsole which can't really be determined on a brand new shoe.
In my opinion.. yes
Yep the Welt alone can't speak for the quality of the whole shoe. But I don't think any brand would use inferior and bad materials with a Goodyear Welted.
I don't know y'all's problem with Thursday Boots
What's magical mean?
My eyes really opened up when I saw all that cash being held up.
The narrator looks and talks like a squeaky robot. 🥺
Where's his wedding band?
Amara Hark-Weber is the best!
Leather soles are very slippery. So take care, and dont fall.
I don't sugggest to resole the boots because the sole will be thinner and thinner as you wear it. the boot with a single layer of leather sole will be too weak to be walked with. I suggest to glue a piece of rubber or nail a piece of leather below the sole. This way make shoe stronger and changing the piece of leather or rubber is far more easier than resoling.
Doesn't make sense, when u get a resole, u get a resole of same thickness unless u asked something else to the cobbler
@@alessiocai5573 Resoling a shoe is much more expensive than covering a layer of rubber or leather. And I always feel the sole itself is too thin, sometimes sole cracks before its wearing out.
@@QuacGiaNgoVietCongHoa u would eventually need it, bcz Needs to change the cork and the filling
Gentleman's gazette uploads new video> go see it > appears Preston/ Kyle>> go read the article.
meaning u only view raphael's vids?
Man's really wearing linen after labor day 😑 I'm messing around of course, it does look really nice
I like Italian made shoes . Blake soles only
6:01 .. You missed a spot.
Hmmmmm yes
Like for cleaning my screen;)
Even got the Jerry Herman score from PSYCHO! NOW I need to wipe off m screen...where's that pocket square?...
Can't believe I'm this early
things these days aren't made to last... even cheap items that hold up if properly taken care of don't last because people are always chasing the next shiny new thing. my mother has piles and piles of clothes she bought because she thought they were pretty and were worn once or never. she even has clothes she thought weren't pretty at all after coming back from the store! i don't know if i'll wear these types of shoes in the future but i hope to have the time money and patience to sew my own clothes in the future, i hate fast fashion and status buying
You are wise.
Can we get fewer Preston and more Kyle vids, please?
nice to kyle, rude to preston
My experience with Meermin was that they have inferior quality. If an Allen Edmonds pair of shoes had been sent to me like that, they would have sent me a new pair. The Meermin standard quality shoe is not even as good as AE factory seconds.
Bro mermin is based Spain, and i know the dude, dudes a garbage man, rude and egocentric, online purchases end up most of time bad, waste of time, energy, money.
At 12:27 why are you calling a bevelled waist a red flag? Do you not know what a bevelled shoe waist is?
He meant specifically a bad done Job on the beveled waist, but i find it dumb since this is a Aesthetic purpose and cost some more money and time, even in mid quality shoes won't make them, it's a waste of money, only up to 400 u would find it
6:53 Wait, you have a perfectly good elf and you use the human to work on the shoes;)?
Preston pulling the good old "bait and switch" technique...
I would love a lady's equivalent to these.
7:38 Actually yes. If I gave you a perfectly made bespoke shoe without the final outsole, it would be completely useless.
A bespoke suit without the final outer lapel fabric attached would be just as useless.
Fifth
First
Sorry to say, but youtube channels like this, RMRS and others have a much bigger role in advertising goodyear welted shoes than meermin or thursday boots.
You see the WWII german boots. They are all blake.
I got some luxury cars to sell you. Check it out, these alloy rims speak miles of luxury.
Highly recommend breaking this down in several videos (not shorts). Your content is high quality but you could shorter videos as additional choice which will increase views and benefit the viewers.
Nicely done 👍