Darren - Thanks for the feedback and comment, and for making a great product! Was excited to see your post as I had learned a lot from your videos on Torque Lock, skimmer replacement and other pool repairs that helped me on my overall project.
How well has it held up? Going to be doing this as well. They seem to have the superior product on the market currently since they actually have the ability to pull inwards on the crack. Really great product. I do have a question. Can you just cut out the template of the staple or do you need to cut that big of a portion and enlarge the crack? I would like to do minimal damage. Thanks for the video, you did an outstanding job explaining and repairing your pool.
Hey there Andrew. I'm starting our 3rd season since making the repair, and no issues at all so far, no bleed through or any signs that there was a crack or issue. Regarding your question, I would think you could successfully make the repair by containing your "demo" to the staple template footprint as long as you are able to get to the actual pool shell and not just to the plaster. Since we were doing a complete renovation I wanted to make sure to remove any remaining plaster around the crack in case it had become compromised or loose. I do think it would be a good idea to use a crack chaser blade to enlarge the crack regardless. This isn't something you want to have to do more than once, so I tend to air on the side of overkill. If I had to do it again, I would do it the same way and use the torque lok staples again for sure. Good luck, let me know if I can help further. (Keep in mind, I'm doing this DIY too).
Great video! Interesting thought experiment would be to chase the crack on the backside too and do a couple of torque locks on the backside and fill the crack with epoxy or hydraulic cement. It seems this area has the rebar overlaps and it wasn't tied together all too well and it's slipping or there's settling of the ground at that point to cause the crack. Your thoughts?
Spot on with your thinking here. I actually went on to do this exact thing before I completely finished up. Since I had the "deck" removed around the pool, I was able to dig down on the outside of the pool shell and went ahead and put another staple on the outside. I also did use the epoxy to fill the crack, mostly to help prevent water intrusion from the outside. Then I backfilled with some 1" minus limestone, since I had a lot of it on site for the paver deck installation. I like your thought of the root cause of the problem possibly resulting from the rebar overlap in the shell; hadn't thought about that but seems like a logical explanation. Thanks for the comment!
@@SeldomRest ok good to know! I'm about to embark on a Diy pool project so your videos are helping out a ton! Any chance you'll do a pool equipment video and your logic for piping and calculating flows? You seem very detail oriented like myself so I'm curious to see how you went about setting up your equipment pad and underground piping requirements as well. Thx!
Let me work on pulling this video together. I do have some content and will add my thoughts to it as well. I've been wanting to do an overview of my equipment too, I've been very happy with the performance of my setup now, so will be happy to share. Glad that these videos are proving helpful, I definitely learned a lot along the way!
Was wondering if you knew the specs for the water proofing membrane that was applied over the hydraulic cement? I have watched all the torque Lock videos and they also talk about applying a water proof membrane over the hydraulic cement but do not specify a spec or brand. Great Video!! Thanks!!
Hey Curtis, thanks for the comments and question. I was able to find the leftover bucket of material, looks like the name of the product is "HEY'DI SB", and the number on the bucket is "TL1941505". You may also give torque lock a call, I'm sure they may have a product recommendation as well. Hope this helps, good luck with the repair!
I’m about to try this repair on my pool but I have some questions. I don’t have plaster people coming in after the repair so would I sand down the hydraulic cement after it sets up? And can you tell me about a waterproofing membrane? I’m new to this all but I’m giving it a shot.
Hey there, thanks for the comment and question. I should caveat that I am not a pro, just a DIY guy, so there is a lot I don't know as well. I would recommend (if you haven't already) watch the videos that Torque Lock has posted, they show some being installed when the entire pool is not being refinished. I think will be basically looking to "patch" over the hydraulic cement with a plaster finish that matches your current pool's finish. Regarding the waterproofing membrane, this is a brush on compound that just further helps to cover the repair, we used a product called "HEY'DI SB", and the number on the bucket is "TL1941505". Hope this helps!
We had Pebble Tech installed, it was their Pebble Brilliance Aqua Falls. Here's a quick time-lapse of the finish being applied: czcams.com/video/iDOeXvamSCc/video.html
Thanks for the comment. I actually was able to see the crack on the outside of the pool wall and ended up putting a staple and cement on the outside as well. So far so good, Have gone through a full year with no returning issues. Thks!
Hey there, I believe the crack was existing. The plaster company used a hydro-blaster to demo the existing finish, which is much less intrusive compared to using demo hammers. I did not notice any leaking issues prior to our renovation either. I'm really glad I took some time to inspect the pool shell though, otherwise this would have definitely caused me an issue. It's been about two seasons since I made this repair and so far so good.
Hade a question .. in the crack were yu suppost to fill it in with epoxy? or sumthn? anythg? ... I do understand you are using the membrain which is a great idea . Maybe that's why yu did not think injecting the crack would be nessasary... cus them staples won't pull the concrete closer than it initially did when yu tightend it to 22 lbs torgue.. but just something to think about..by the way for the membrain to work properly I believe yu would need to make it smooth all 4 sides or it won't stick properly .. I knw u replastering it... but still water can creep thru smallest places if the rubberized material is installed on a rough surface and just plaster over the top... I recommend is filling it in with plaster till smooth ... amd surrounding area.. yu can use rubberized sweetie to make it smooth ... then let dry .. Sand if needed ...then after drys ..few days.. Then put 2 inches of plaster or spray on concrete over entire pool... p.s. I would inject epoxy thru a tube run it down the crack from the top push tube till goes down 3 feet and start filling it in while working way up... and then same thing from the back yu can inject everywhere... then after all resurfacing is complete fill up ...check spot for leaks... the cover the hole yu dug to access the back of that crack.. hope this helps God bless best of luck to yu . I just repaired crack with V cut... and plaster over it... then painted pool ocean blue the brand called INSL-6 WATERBORNE version theu have 4 types of paint.. and redid all plumbing filter... and ima wait till paint dries amd will fill it up run pump check for any plumbing leaks since sum of the plumbing is below 2 feet under ground... if I have no leaks then I'll burry the dirt back ... work smarter not harder esp when changing everythg out cus we has bubbles in our jets... when I dug it up... all straps were broken and air was in system n broke my new 700$ pump in just 3 months... I have 12 ft 38000k gallons 1.5 hp pump 300lbs sand filter.... if cud post pics I would ....took over 1 month to complete die to 5 minor fractures n 2 weeks of rain after initially pressure washing and draining... good luck
The rebar used in the original gunite shell is not painted and so the staples don’t need it either. Once it’s encased in concrete oxygen and moisture can’t get to it and start rusting. The staples do seem to have some oil on them which would also help a little.
This was a great video. You did an incredible job installing our product.
Thanks
Darren Merlob. Torque Lock Structural Systems
Darren - Thanks for the feedback and comment, and for making a great product!
Was excited to see your post as I had learned a lot from your videos on Torque Lock, skimmer replacement and other pool repairs that helped me on my overall project.
love this guy... wish he had more content!
How well has it held up? Going to be doing this as well. They seem to have the superior product on the market currently since they actually have the ability to pull inwards on the crack. Really great product. I do have a question. Can you just cut out the template of the staple or do you need to cut that big of a portion and enlarge the crack? I would like to do minimal damage. Thanks for the video, you did an outstanding job explaining and repairing your pool.
Hey there Andrew. I'm starting our 3rd season since making the repair, and no issues at all so far, no bleed through or any signs that there was a crack or issue. Regarding your question, I would think you could successfully make the repair by containing your "demo" to the staple template footprint as long as you are able to get to the actual pool shell and not just to the plaster. Since we were doing a complete renovation I wanted to make sure to remove any remaining plaster around the crack in case it had become compromised or loose. I do think it would be a good idea to use a crack chaser blade to enlarge the crack regardless. This isn't something you want to have to do more than once, so I tend to air on the side of overkill. If I had to do it again, I would do it the same way and use the torque lok staples again for sure. Good luck, let me know if I can help further. (Keep in mind, I'm doing this DIY too).
V notch the crack and staple
Great video! Interesting thought experiment would be to chase the crack on the backside too and do a couple of torque locks on the backside and fill the crack with epoxy or hydraulic cement.
It seems this area has the rebar overlaps and it wasn't tied together all too well and it's slipping or there's settling of the ground at that point to cause the crack.
Your thoughts?
Spot on with your thinking here. I actually went on to do this exact thing before I completely finished up. Since I had the "deck" removed around the pool, I was able to dig down on the outside of the pool shell and went ahead and put another staple on the outside. I also did use the epoxy to fill the crack, mostly to help prevent water intrusion from the outside. Then I backfilled with some 1" minus limestone, since I had a lot of it on site for the paver deck installation.
I like your thought of the root cause of the problem possibly resulting from the rebar overlap in the shell; hadn't thought about that but seems like a logical explanation.
Thanks for the comment!
@@SeldomRest ok good to know! I'm about to embark on a Diy pool project so your videos are helping out a ton!
Any chance you'll do a pool equipment video and your logic for piping and calculating flows? You seem very detail oriented like myself so I'm curious to see how you went about setting up your equipment pad and underground piping requirements as well. Thx!
Let me work on pulling this video together. I do have some content and will add my thoughts to it as well. I've been wanting to do an overview of my equipment too, I've been very happy with the performance of my setup now, so will be happy to share. Glad that these videos are proving helpful, I definitely learned a lot along the way!
Was wondering if you knew the specs for the water proofing membrane that was applied over the hydraulic cement? I have watched all the torque Lock videos and they also talk about applying a water proof membrane over the hydraulic cement but do not specify a spec or brand. Great Video!! Thanks!!
Hey Curtis, thanks for the comments and question. I was able to find the leftover bucket of material, looks like the name of the product is "HEY'DI SB", and the number on the bucket is "TL1941505". You may also give torque lock a call, I'm sure they may have a product recommendation as well.
Hope this helps, good luck with the repair!
@@SeldomRest Thanks!!
Nothing is going to stop the fissure. A lot of weight but the apoxy in the crack is enough to keep the water in.
I’m about to try this repair on my pool but I have some questions. I don’t have plaster people coming in after the repair so would I sand down the hydraulic cement after it sets up? And can you tell me about a waterproofing membrane? I’m new to this all but I’m giving it a shot.
Hey there, thanks for the comment and question. I should caveat that I am not a pro, just a DIY guy, so there is a lot I don't know as well. I would recommend (if you haven't already) watch the videos that Torque Lock has posted, they show some being installed when the entire pool is not being refinished. I think will be basically looking to "patch" over the hydraulic cement with a plaster finish that matches your current pool's finish. Regarding the waterproofing membrane, this is a brush on compound that just further helps to cover the repair, we used a product called "HEY'DI SB", and the number on the bucket is "TL1941505". Hope this helps!
Also, what kind of finish did you have installed (plaster/pebble tech, etc.)?
We had Pebble Tech installed, it was their Pebble Brilliance Aqua Falls. Here's a quick time-lapse of the finish being applied: czcams.com/video/iDOeXvamSCc/video.html
i just wonder if you ever see any crake from the outside wall of the pool, will you use some cement to fix it
Thanks for the comment. I actually was able to see the crack on the outside of the pool wall and ended up putting a staple and cement on the outside as well.
So far so good, Have gone through a full year with no returning issues.
Thks!
Was the crack existing or did the company made it when removing the plaster
Hey there, I believe the crack was existing. The plaster company used a hydro-blaster to demo the existing finish, which is much less intrusive compared to using demo hammers. I did not notice any leaking issues prior to our renovation either. I'm really glad I took some time to inspect the pool shell though, otherwise this would have definitely caused me an issue. It's been about two seasons since I made this repair and so far so good.
Hade a question
.. in the crack were yu suppost to fill it in with epoxy? or sumthn? anythg? ... I do understand you are using the membrain which is a great idea
. Maybe that's why yu did not think injecting the crack would be nessasary... cus them staples won't pull the concrete closer than it initially did when yu tightend it to 22 lbs torgue.. but just something to think about..by the way for the membrain to work properly I believe yu would need to make it smooth all 4 sides or it won't stick properly ..
I knw u replastering it... but still water can creep thru smallest places if the rubberized material is installed on a rough surface and just plaster over the top... I recommend is filling it in with plaster till smooth ... amd surrounding area.. yu can use rubberized sweetie to make it smooth ... then let dry ..
Sand if needed ...then after drys ..few days..
Then put 2 inches of plaster or spray on concrete over entire pool... p.s. I would inject epoxy thru a tube run it down the crack from the top push tube till goes down 3 feet and start filling it in while working way up... and then same thing from the back yu can inject everywhere... then after all resurfacing is complete fill up ...check spot for leaks... the cover the hole yu dug to access the back of that crack.. hope this helps God bless best of luck to yu . I just repaired crack with V cut... and plaster over it... then painted pool ocean blue the brand called INSL-6 WATERBORNE version theu have 4 types of paint.. and redid all plumbing filter... and ima wait till paint dries amd will fill it up run pump check for any plumbing leaks since sum of the plumbing is below 2 feet under ground... if I have no leaks then I'll burry the dirt back ... work smarter not harder esp when changing everythg out cus we has bubbles in our jets... when I dug it up... all straps were broken and air was in system n broke my new 700$ pump in just 3 months... I have 12 ft 38000k gallons 1.5 hp pump 300lbs sand filter.... if cud post pics I would ....took over 1 month to complete die to 5 minor fractures n 2 weeks of rain after initially pressure washing and draining... good luck
At 27:28 he says he used the remaining epoxy to fill the crack as well.
The metal braces need to be painted with anti-rust paint to prevent rust from going through the plaster.
Probably not a bad idea. So far so good with it, hopefully it stays that way. Thanks for the comment.
Looks like the torque lock is already coated. No paint necessary
The rebar used in the original gunite shell is not painted and so the staples don’t need it either. Once it’s encased in concrete oxygen and moisture can’t get to it and start rusting. The staples do seem to have some oil on them which would also help a little.
crack will crack.put a liner👍
Haha crack!