The real problems were left out from the video. This shows only an open neutral if it broke while turned on already, and the load is well balanced. Those LEDs are fairly equalized in load, so the voltage will not fluctuate. BUT. Once you try to start them like this, their on-time will vary and there WILL BE a voltage imbalance between the 2 sides, which will lead one side to stay dark, while the other side will get way too voltage and blow out (and i suspect, one by one, but quite quickly) And this does not only apply to LEDs, incandescent bulbs vary in resistance as well. You can do this experiment on 12V by using 2 incandescent car bulbs in series and try to run them from 12V. at around 80% of the times only one of the 2 bulbs will glow. (Kind of random) - This is a way safer experiment than using 220V, in my opinion ... If you run them from 24V, one side will surely blow almost instantly, so run them from 12V , 2 bulbs in series. Had once a car which some "smart" mechanic wired 2 relays in series to control the headlights. It worked when you switched it on first, but once you tried to use the flash, and cut off the electricity for a split second, it went dark. Took me about a half an hour to figure it out, as i did not expected such stupidity.
Wondering where ya got the 3 phase 208V WYE source... it is going to be 220V as there no 3 phase power judging by the distro panel you showed, ie 220v center tap neutral single phase or did I miss something? It could be but ya seem to be showing more residential stuff not industrial.
Hmmm Okay, So are you saying that each set of four are wired as normal (in parallel) and the two sets are then in series? Yes its interesting but a tiny bit more clarity would be helpful. And although these bulbs are LEDs they are still simple devices. I once was having work done on my house and the worker snagged and broke the neutral Service Entrance Conductor, That fried every electronic appliance in my house...expensive mistake for sure.
Or .... you might purchase a ( one off , UK / Europe , 230 Volt bulb ) and connect it between BLACK and RED .... which would work OK , without the WHITE neutral needed ( a trans Atlantic business deal here ? ) Ha - Ha .. DAVE™🛑
@@Stevenj120volts In what SPECIFIC way(s). Name some examples how 120V systems and electrical practices in America are superior to Western European systems and practices.
@@RobCCTV ok first American homes are a 240 system not 120. We just ground and bond our 240 in a away that allows 240v at the appliances.but only a shock hazard to ppl of 120v. 120v will put only half the current thru a person during a shock compared to 230. Also the future is getting more and more efficient the idea of having a system that only allows for 230 is silly and dangerous for no reason. It baffles me how many ppl from EU thinks more volts means less amps. Ohms law is Amp=voltage ÷ resistance. They are confusing how watts are affected
Now unbalance the load and see what happens. Unscrew 3 of the 4 bulbs on one branch only, leaving all four bulbs on the other branch screwed in.
The real problems were left out from the video.
This shows only an open neutral if it broke while turned on already, and the load is well balanced.
Those LEDs are fairly equalized in load, so the voltage will not fluctuate.
BUT.
Once you try to start them like this, their on-time will vary and there WILL BE a voltage imbalance between the 2 sides, which will lead one side to stay dark, while the other side will get way too voltage and blow out (and i suspect, one by one, but quite quickly)
And this does not only apply to LEDs, incandescent bulbs vary in resistance as well.
You can do this experiment on 12V by using 2 incandescent car bulbs in series and try to run them from 12V. at around 80% of the times only one of the 2 bulbs will glow. (Kind of random) - This is a way safer experiment than using 220V, in my opinion ... If you run them from 24V, one side will surely blow almost instantly, so run them from 12V , 2 bulbs in series.
Had once a car which some "smart" mechanic wired 2 relays in series to control the headlights. It worked when you switched it on first, but once you tried to use the flash, and cut off the electricity for a split second, it went dark. Took me about a half an hour to figure it out, as i did not expected such stupidity.
Thank you
Wondering where ya got the 3 phase 208V WYE source... it is going to be 220V as there no 3 phase power judging by the distro panel you showed, ie 220v center tap neutral single phase or did I miss something? It could be but ya seem to be showing more residential stuff not industrial.
Hmmm
Okay, So are you saying that each set of four are wired as normal (in parallel) and the two sets are then in series? Yes its interesting but a tiny bit more clarity would be helpful. And although these bulbs are LEDs they are still simple devices.
I once was having work done on my house and the worker snagged and broke the neutral Service Entrance Conductor, That fried every electronic appliance in my house...expensive mistake for sure.
Open neutral puts 240v across your 120v devices because you have no reference to the center tap of the transformer/ground. What else is there to say?
"An open neutral"
Or .... you might purchase a ( one off , UK / Europe , 230 Volt bulb ) and connect it between BLACK and RED .... which would work OK , without the WHITE neutral needed ( a trans Atlantic business deal here ? ) Ha - Ha .. DAVE™🛑
That was exceptionally confusing. Might want to tailor your content to fit a slightly wider/dumber audience (pls).
Jittery, too fast, non-stop commentary, not properly zooming onto the component to show what exactly you talking about. 30 seconds and I was out.
American electricians have a lot to learn from western European practices.
Incorrect the American system much safer and more advanced
@@Stevenj120volts In what SPECIFIC way(s). Name some examples how 120V systems and electrical practices in America are superior to Western European systems and practices.
@@RobCCTV ok first American homes are a 240 system not 120. We just ground and bond our 240 in a away that allows 240v at the appliances.but only a shock hazard to ppl of 120v. 120v will put only half the current thru a person during a shock compared to 230. Also the future is getting more and more efficient the idea of having a system that only allows for 230 is silly and dangerous for no reason. It baffles me how many ppl from EU thinks more volts means less amps. Ohms law is Amp=voltage ÷ resistance. They are confusing how watts are affected
@@RobCCTV an American GFCI trips at 5 ma... Where a EU RCD trips at 30ma which allows for 6 times the current during a shock before tripping.
@@Stevenj120volts The huge voltage difference renders your point invalid. Simple as that.