Chain cleaning and maintenance; schedules, methods, tools, and which products are recommended. Don't even mind if it's sponsored products as long as you believe in them, Doddy
I have a back tire with correct axle/ frame size but the tire rubs against the left seat stay. how do I measure the complete wheel and back triangle to find out what matches or doesn't fit?
For the people that might be looking to upgrade or replace their through axles, it's worth mentioning that many through axles have different thread patterns or thread pitch and this is sometimes not shown on some retailers websites. I've seen guys buy the correct size axle but with the wrong thread pattern/pitch and have ended up either damaging the thread on the axle and not being able to return it, or worse still damaged the thread on their bike frame!
I'm old enough to remember the days when both road and mountain bikes had the exact same axel lengths. And both were the same quick release size. These once simple things have gotten way too complicated. This detailed explanation is greatly appreciated. Please keep up the good work. Thank you.
I still have an old bike from the early 90's, if I have axle issues I could prolly find a spare nut anywhere. I now bought a new bike, all pre-rusted for $35. When I say new, I mean new for me, '07 to '09 I think. It's got a bolt through quick release on back, seems just fine after years of use and replacement bolts easy to get. On the front it has a weird axle from Manitou, I need to work out what that is. It's nice to see new designs, if they solve a problem or add something new people want. However I think more bikes should keep to tried and proven common standards that are easy fix and cheap to replace. Making profits is not a reason to make things more anti-consumer. Plenty of good old bikes out there if you're not racing. However it's just so confusing after not really looking at bikes for over 20 years :P
Just got a bike with a missing front axel bolt. It is my first boosted bike. The info here is crucial for understanding and ordering the new part. You probably saved me several disappointing returns. Many thanks!
In addition.. * 20mm DH axle has boost and non-boost standard in same 110mm OLD, not compatible each other. * There are at least three different thread pitch standards of rear through axles. 1.0mm(X-12), 1.5mm(E-Thuru), and 1.75mm(Maxle). Moreover, rear Maxle boost length is 180mm(standard?) and 188mm(for Split Pivot?). A bit complicated.
Ok.. so I'm gonna change my QR Front axle along with new thru axle Fork.. my Question: what size thread pinch & thru axle do I need, because I'm Installing a front hub motor so I want a Safe front wheel system for my 26' disc brake MTB
I've had all the main ones on bikes over the last few years plus a few of the less common ones and the best one I've come across for forks is the Cane Creek D-Loc. It automatically puts the lever in the correct position, has an adjustment collar that doesn't break like the ones in Maxles and the locking switch means that it won't fall out even if the lever flips open. Such a clever system that just oozes quality.
Well presented information. The reader should know that you can't swap between axle types because often they have different thread pitches - 1mm, 1.5mm, 1.75mm that I know of.
Brilliant. I’m new to MTB and as a car mechanic, love taking things apart, I have a couple of bikes, WhyteT 130s 2016 and Boardman 9.0 2021. Can’t thank you enough. Your advice, videos and general enthusiasm, make it easy to follow an have a go. Thanks again. Davy Davidson.
good advice, took me a good couple of weeks to find the right torque for my old school skewers, and the levers were closed in line with the frame/fork for aesthetic reasons, turns out it was safer after a friend caught his rear skewer with his heel.
The worst is the new bike we got has a 141 QR rear. From my looking around that seems to be a boost spaced QR but of course the dropouts won't take a 12mm axle only 10mm I believe. I have read that this is becoming a new standard QR
Don't forget to grease your through axle when fitting, they seize up and are nearly impossible to remove. Periodically loosen, remove and retighten to make sure when you're on an epic ride, you don't get caught out., something that can happen when you go tubeless and very rarely have to remove the wheel. It happened to me and it was a real swine to remove...
Don't give up your day job, you're rather good at it. I'm quite fond of the Suntour Q-Loc design, it's a bit fiddly perhaps, and user-errors almost always result in the mechanism in pieces on the ground, but it's a very effective method that doesn't require any special machining in the fork lowers.
Very instructive vid, thanks Doddy, also worth mentionning, I've once had my rear Quick release set too lose (not tight enough) and it cause what seemed to be at first a BB creaking noise, which was in fact the rear end of the frame having a little play. Glad I figured it out before wrongly replacing my press fit BB.
Like some of the others that have commented I would like you to have addressed the different thread pitches also and which bike manufacturers use which thread pitch size. Interface too, conical and flat faced.
This series is brilliant. Full bike geek and totally enjoyable to both know the history and proper maintenance of the parts. Doddy is a great teacher. 👏
Hey Doddy, you should definitely advise people to periodically grease their through axles, on both the thread AND, very importantly, the main body of the axle. I had TWO brand new bikes and after 11 months (first puncture) both rear axles had become seized to the point where they COULD NOT be removed from either bike. With one of them the thread would undo but the main body of the axle was totally seized / bonded to the axle! The bikes were out of action for 6 weeks and in both cases the rear wheel had to be cut off with a metal cutter! Fortunately the repair was covered by warranty but they did try and say it was all my fault! I now remove and re-grease the axles every other week!! Please share this information as I was really sad for 6 weeks! #askgmbntech
most Rockshox forks I've seen have had Maxle Lite which I was surprised you didn't feature, has the metal shroud used to thread/unthread that's easily bent
These series videos are a great idea and you hit a good topic to start with! I would just add my two cents by pointing out that if you are in the RS1 tribe and still enjoy that inverted fork, the lever should be pointing towards the rear of the bike and horizontal to the bottom of the fork. Reason being, rockshox claims that you would otherwise likely be damaging the stanchion.
How about a video on building a simple home bike work space. Most, if not all, of the shops I've seen online seem to be set up exclusively with Park tools and a peg board with specialized tool hangers. Additionally, I'd be interested in suggestions related to tool placements. Something along the lines of chain whip is best located near the rear wheel and a brake bleed kit can live in a drawer nearby because it is only used once in awhile sort of thing.
My front axle while being on a Rockshox Domain as a 20mm x 110mm axle and it has a collet that pushes out and grips the housing to lock it self in. Its much different than any of the standard axles in the video.
Great video!... I've recently upgraded to my first full suspension bike and would love to see a video on how to maintain the front and rear suspension components
Isn't the Fox removable nut now used on the Float system to ensure the fork ends are not squeezed together if a under-width hub is installed? The axle doesn't compress the hub, it essentially floats on the axle.
Great vid, I'd like to maybe see a video like this about rim and tyre widths - I often see guys writing posts asking what width tyres they can fit on their rims, i.e how wide can they go etc etc.
What should I use for lubricating these axles? Or should they be lubricated or kept dry and lubricated only on threads? I dont mean with water and mud...
Last weekend I was test riding a Marin Wolf Ridge pro and I got stuck for an hour trying to figure out how to use the stupid "naild" axle that Marin decided to use. The guys at the shop simply forgot to tell me that there's a special axle that requires a totally different method.
Wish you had this video last year before I got my PhD is dropout standards. It would be useful for you to have addressed "Thread Pitch" and "Thread Length" because it impacts compatibility. BTW, I refuse to buy Pivot because of 157, LoL, Great Video as always!
Really informative!👍🏼 However, quite sad and frustrating that the mtb industry are moving away a lot from the old 100mm and 135mm and the old coventional QR. My bike is a 2016 model and to upgrade the wheelset, fork, etc, it's so hard to find the parts because now the standard is almost all boost standard. I really hope the mtb industry doesnt move away completely from the old standard 😢
I can only wonder why they adopted that piece of QR on so many variants of the Thru Axle, I only see 3 good variants, one is the DT Swiss, another is the one where you simply remove the handle bit, the last one is the Maxle Stealth. Those 3 you won't have to fiddle and do guess work with, the best ones imo are the last 2 I mentioned as they leave to lever out when you're done.
First time I've had the front wheel off since I bought the bike 6 months ago, seized with the tire the wrong way round having to use a large mallet/rod against bench to free it. Will i have damaged/bent the fork bridge because the lever end didn't free from hub when I unscrewed axle and belted? Great work, keep em coming.
I'm not sure if the DT one is a good idea. It's purely relying on the rotation and even stands out wiht it's grip surface to get caught by more stuff unlike the more traditional levers who lay flat with the frame/geometry
uh... bikes have had front suspension for 30yrs or more. never had issues with normal quick release axles. developed to stop any movement in the fork(natural development)
Yep. Facts. Not only confusing. But very frustrating as well if you are like me and you are having a bike that has the old 100 and 135 mm axle standards. It's quite hard to find forks that are non boost as well too 😢
Doddy, great vid. I think proper suspension setup is a good topic. It's a big topic but one I think is often misunderstood by the average joe rider and some average joe shop mechanics as well. Thanks!
Hello Sir your blog on this axle breakdown is awesome and much appreciated…however would like to know from your point of view if steel axle durability can last a long time? I have decided to replace my quick release on my MTB for my autistic nephews journey of learning on riding MTB in the park. I figured every moment counts with him especially his enjoyment every time he rides on the pegs behind me on the bike. So far…I haven’t noticed any kind of bent on any component near to the rear hub axle after a week of riding with my nephew on the pegs. My nephew by the way is about 150 lbs as 16 yr old.
Yesterday I watched this video, and this morning I broke the lever of my axle becouse I tightenned it too much. Feel so dumb. I was supposed to go to the bikepark tomorrow, what a F..... frustration :(
I got a trek marlin 6 and with the more videos I watch about mountain bikes, the less confident I am in the damn thing. It's fun as hell yes but Jesus I hate how I don't have a tapered head tube and how I have quick release axles.
Hey Doddy, did you mention that the different types have different thread pitches? So if for some reason someone needs to replace one, to make sure they get an appropriate type. I had to buy a through axle adapter for a turbo trainer to fit a niner RDO gravel bike that uses 142 x 12. That's when I found out that they are not all the same thread pitch.
thanks Doddy, brilliant, apparently not me, since I thought Neil's race at ard rock enduro he had maybe installed a skewer wrong. it must of been a dt style. this channel and presenters are the best...
Excellent video, a friend of my bought a Rockshork Judy fork and it came with a MAXLE without quick release, we've tried to release with a alen key but it's impossible, i'm wondering if you might know which tool we can use for this purpose, thanks great channel!
I have Maxle Stealth, Is it possible to switch to QR Maxle ? The advantages would be not having to have an Allen key to hand and the correct torque setting.
Welcome to GMBN Tech Essentials! What skills would you like to learn?
GMBN Tech how do I pick the right sized bike frame for me
How to choose between rockshox, Fox,ohlins,etc
Wheel bearings and servicing them would be interesting.
Chain cleaning and maintenance; schedules, methods, tools, and which products are recommended. Don't even mind if it's sponsored products as long as you believe in them, Doddy
I have a back tire with correct axle/ frame size but the tire rubs against the left seat stay. how do I measure the complete wheel and back triangle to find out what matches or doesn't fit?
For the people that might be looking to upgrade or replace their through axles, it's worth mentioning that many through axles have different thread patterns or thread pitch and this is sometimes not shown on some retailers websites. I've seen guys buy the correct size axle but with the wrong thread pattern/pitch and have ended up either damaging the thread on the axle and not being able to return it, or worse still damaged the thread on their bike frame!
Came for quick release skewer info, stayed for the Doddy.
I'm old enough to remember the days when both road and mountain bikes had the exact same axel lengths. And both were the same quick release size. These once simple things have gotten way too complicated. This detailed explanation is greatly appreciated. Please keep up the good work. Thank you.
I still have an old bike from the early 90's, if I have axle issues I could prolly find a spare nut anywhere.
I now bought a new bike, all pre-rusted for $35. When I say new, I mean new for me, '07 to '09 I think.
It's got a bolt through quick release on back, seems just fine after years of use and replacement bolts easy to get.
On the front it has a weird axle from Manitou, I need to work out what that is.
It's nice to see new designs, if they solve a problem or add something new people want.
However I think more bikes should keep to tried and proven common standards that are easy fix and cheap to replace.
Making profits is not a reason to make things more anti-consumer.
Plenty of good old bikes out there if you're not racing.
However it's just so confusing after not really looking at bikes for over 20 years :P
Should be a handy series
That's the goal - let us know what you'd like to see!
I agree
Just got a bike with a missing front axel bolt. It is my first boosted bike. The info here is crucial for understanding and ordering the new part. You probably saved me several disappointing returns. Many thanks!
In addition..
* 20mm DH axle has boost and non-boost standard in same 110mm OLD, not compatible each other.
* There are at least three different thread pitch standards of rear through axles. 1.0mm(X-12), 1.5mm(E-Thuru), and 1.75mm(Maxle). Moreover, rear Maxle boost length is 180mm(standard?) and 188mm(for Split Pivot?). A bit complicated.
Ok.. so I'm gonna change my QR Front axle along with new thru axle Fork.. my Question: what size thread pinch & thru axle do I need, because I'm Installing a front hub motor so I want a Safe front wheel system for my 26' disc brake MTB
I've had all the main ones on bikes over the last few years plus a few of the less common ones and the best one I've come across for forks is the Cane Creek D-Loc. It automatically puts the lever in the correct position, has an adjustment collar that doesn't break like the ones in Maxles and the locking switch means that it won't fall out even if the lever flips open. Such a clever system that just oozes quality.
Well presented information. The reader should know that you can't swap between axle types because often they have different thread pitches - 1mm, 1.5mm, 1.75mm that I know of.
Brilliant. I’m new to MTB and as a car mechanic, love taking things apart, I have a couple of bikes, WhyteT 130s 2016 and Boardman 9.0 2021. Can’t thank you enough. Your advice, videos and general enthusiasm, make it easy to follow an have a go. Thanks again. Davy Davidson.
VIDEO SUGGESTION - A video on frame geometry. The history and evolution of frame geometry. When did things start to become "long, low, and slack"?
This is the sort of stuff nobody tells you, but everyone needs to know!
That's so great to hear. Really, it's what makes us do these videos!
good advice, took me a good couple of weeks to find the right torque for my old school skewers, and the levers were closed in line with the frame/fork for aesthetic reasons, turns out it was safer after a friend caught his rear skewer with his heel.
The worst is the new bike we got has a 141 QR rear. From my looking around that seems to be a boost spaced QR but of course the dropouts won't take a 12mm axle only 10mm I believe. I have read that this is becoming a new standard QR
Just as I thought gmbn tech channel couldn't get any better !
My 1982 Stumpjumper has 128mm rear spacing.
Don't forget to grease your through axle when fitting, they seize up and are nearly impossible to remove. Periodically loosen, remove and retighten to make sure when you're on an epic ride, you don't get caught out., something that can happen when you go tubeless and very rarely have to remove the wheel. It happened to me and it was a real swine to remove...
Six months late for the bike shop!!!
Don't give up your day job, you're rather good at it.
I'm quite fond of the Suntour Q-Loc design, it's a bit fiddly perhaps, and user-errors almost always result in the mechanism in pieces on the ground, but it's a very effective method that doesn't require any special machining in the fork lowers.
Very instructive vid, thanks Doddy, also worth mentionning, I've once had my rear Quick release set too lose (not tight enough) and it cause what seemed to be at first a BB creaking noise, which was in fact the rear end of the frame having a little play. Glad I figured it out before wrongly replacing my press fit BB.
Like some of the others that have commented I would like you to have addressed the different thread pitches also and which bike manufacturers use which thread pitch size. Interface too, conical and flat faced.
Thanks Darren, it'll be an expansion on this video, and important to cover in the future.
Good point. Axles may not be interchangeable from frame to frame.
This series is brilliant. Full bike geek and totally enjoyable to both know the history and proper maintenance of the parts. Doddy is a great teacher. 👏
Hey Doddy, you should definitely advise people to periodically grease their through axles, on both the thread AND, very importantly, the main body of the axle. I had TWO brand new bikes and after 11 months (first puncture) both rear axles had become seized to the point where they COULD NOT be removed from either bike. With one of them the thread would undo but the main body of the axle was totally seized / bonded to the axle! The bikes were out of action for 6 weeks and in both cases the rear wheel had to be cut off with a metal cutter! Fortunately the repair was covered by warranty but they did try and say it was all my fault! I now remove and re-grease the axles every other week!! Please share this information as I was really sad for 6 weeks! #askgmbntech
It's a good point, Mark, thanks!
you're welcome, just trying to avoid others having the same problem, thanks for the reply!!
Make a head set essential
Very good video that should help most anyone...... For me, I just grab my 6mm hex wrench and bamm, my bolt on axle is tight.
Simplest system around 👍
Great the maxle had me confused 🤷♂️ lol got it thanks...Love the DT system my Merida had the same system easy...
mystory solved. thanks Dodi
Just picked up a new bike yesterday with thru axles. Thanks for the info. Very helpful.
most Rockshox forks I've seen have had Maxle Lite which I was surprised you didn't feature, has the metal shroud used to thread/unthread that's easily bent
I swapped mine for maxle stealth after bending mine. Awful design.
i always get excited when i see that scout
These series videos are a great idea and you hit a good topic to start with! I would just add my two cents by pointing out that if you are in the RS1 tribe and still enjoy that inverted fork, the lever should be pointing towards the rear of the bike and horizontal to the bottom of the fork. Reason being, rockshox claims that you would otherwise likely be damaging the stanchion.
Sound out Doddy! I have the maxle and was wondering how to adjust 💚😎💚
Great beginner tips. Looking forward to further videos in this series
Nice video
How about a video on building a simple home bike work space. Most, if not all, of the shops I've seen online seem to be set up exclusively with Park tools and a peg board with specialized tool hangers. Additionally, I'd be interested in suggestions related to tool placements. Something along the lines of chain whip is best located near the rear wheel and a brake bleed kit can live in a drawer nearby because it is only used once in awhile sort of thing.
This actually was a really nice and oddly satisfying video!
This comment doesn't sound like me at all in my opinion 😂
Your good 👍 very well explained simple as 1 2 3 I’m off to change my wheels
Well to complicate things, it's an abberation really, some brands have their own thread length and thread pitch on thru axles.
Bike companies need to remember what a standard is.
Previous remarks notwithstanding, these are great videos. Thank you for them.
Thanks for the great info..
Also, don't forget the SR Suntour Qlok...what a nightmare.
Doddy ur da best
My front axle while being on a Rockshox Domain as a 20mm x 110mm axle and it has a collet that pushes out and grips the housing to lock it self in. Its much different than any of the standard axles in the video.
Yeah, those are more downhill style forks. Some still have this system, but it's much less common these days.
thanks for the reply. Now I just need to figure out how to put the 35mm boxxer air spring stanchions in my domain frontend.
Great video!... I've recently upgraded to my first full suspension bike and would love to see a video on how to maintain the front and rear suspension components
Great info!!
8:42 HES HOLDING THE ROTOR
As always, awesome video Doddy
Must Watch Essentials Video would be "Break Adapters" Post-Mount vs Direct Mount
I replace all axles with non-QR ones from OneUp components. They have torque indicators and there's zero scope for ambiguity.
Bikerelated handles seem like such a waste and unnecessary risk. I’m with you on this one.
Isn't the Fox removable nut now used on the Float system to ensure the fork ends are not squeezed together if a under-width hub is installed? The axle doesn't compress the hub, it essentially floats on the axle.
Excellent Video, thanks for posting, much helpful to understand how it's work ..
More of that
This was extremely helpful and well explained! Thank you!
Could you do a video on how to install and setup dual crown forks. Ie adjusting the crown heights and how it affects head angle ect
cant wait for Ep. 2 Well done Doddy!
Great vid, I'd like to maybe see a video like this about rim and tyre widths - I often see guys writing posts asking what width tyres they can fit on their rims, i.e how wide can they go etc etc.
thank you very much for this
What should I use for lubricating these axles? Or should they be lubricated or kept dry and lubricated only on threads? I dont mean with water and mud...
Last weekend I was test riding a Marin Wolf Ridge pro and I got stuck for an hour trying to figure out how to use the stupid "naild" axle that Marin decided to use.
The guys at the shop simply forgot to tell me that there's a special axle that requires a totally different method.
Saved my life, thankyou
Wish you had this video last year before I got my PhD is dropout standards. It would be useful for you to have addressed "Thread Pitch" and "Thread Length" because it impacts compatibility. BTW, I refuse to buy Pivot because of 157, LoL, Great Video as always!
Great video Doddy. Looking forward to more of this series.
Brilliant! Thanks.
Why is this not in a playlist?
Really informative!👍🏼 However, quite sad and frustrating that the mtb industry are moving away a lot from the old 100mm and 135mm and the old coventional QR. My bike is a 2016 model and to upgrade the wheelset, fork, etc, it's so hard to find the parts because now the standard is almost all boost standard. I really hope the mtb industry doesnt move away completely from the old standard 😢
I can only wonder why they adopted that piece of QR on so many variants of the Thru Axle, I only see 3 good variants, one is the DT Swiss, another is the one where you simply remove the handle bit, the last one is the Maxle Stealth. Those 3 you won't have to fiddle and do guess work with, the best ones imo are the last 2 I mentioned as they leave to lever out when you're done.
Thanks for that yddoD.
Thank you very muchhh!! Grate video!
Prime info! 👍🏻
Love your vids keep up with the hard work
By the way great show Doddy love it
First time I've had the front wheel off since I bought the bike 6 months ago, seized with the tire the wrong way round having to use a large mallet/rod against bench to free it. Will i have damaged/bent the fork bridge because the lever end didn't free from hub when I unscrewed axle and belted? Great work, keep em coming.
I'm not sure if the DT one is a good idea. It's purely relying on the rotation and even stands out wiht it's grip surface to get caught by more stuff unlike the more traditional levers who lay flat with the frame/geometry
That lever can fall off. Apparently there is a screw that needs to be checked every now and then. I have no idea how though.
Thank to you. DT Swiss RWS....
uh... bikes have had front suspension for 30yrs or more. never had issues with normal quick release axles.
developed to stop any movement in the fork(natural development)
Great vid!
Summary: we had a standard that was fine, now it's a confusing mess.
Money money money money 💰 💰 💰 💰
Cycling is a cult
Yep. Facts. Not only confusing. But very frustrating as well if you are like me and you are having a bike that has the old 100 and 135 mm axle standards. It's quite hard to find forks that are non boost as well too 😢
@@joshhhhhhh713 Still have track wheels with 100 and 110mm
Great info! Thank you.
Doddy, great vid. I think proper suspension setup is a good topic. It's a big topic but one I think is often misunderstood by the average joe rider and some average joe shop mechanics as well. Thanks!
Specialized Demo 8 gas a 12x135mm rear end
Hello Sir your blog on this axle breakdown is awesome and much appreciated…however would like to know from your point of view if steel axle durability can last a long time?
I have decided to replace my quick release on my MTB for my autistic nephews journey of learning on riding MTB in the park. I figured every moment counts with him especially his enjoyment every time he rides on the pegs behind me on the bike. So far…I haven’t noticed any kind of bent on any component near to the rear hub axle after a week of riding with my nephew on the pegs. My nephew by the way is about 150 lbs as 16 yr old.
Yesterday I watched this video, and this morning I broke the lever of my axle becouse I tightenned it too much. Feel so dumb. I was supposed to go to the bikepark tomorrow, what a F..... frustration :(
Some suggestions: bottombracket, headset or Rims & tires 👌🏽
Should I just put a regular axle through and get rid of my quick release I'm going to 32 miles per hour
I busted my Maxel. It was tight and I kept hitting it with my hand till the whole thing busted. Washers leaver went everywhere lol
Can you reduce the width of an axel from 135mm to 127mm? Thank you!
Hi, do the axles need lubrication? (grease)
MaglorMusic yes you should put a light coat of grease on the axle and threads, don’t much at all though you only want a small bit
@@matthewk7037 thanks :)
I got a trek marlin 6 and with the more videos I watch about mountain bikes, the less confident I am in the damn thing. It's fun as hell yes but Jesus I hate how I don't have a tapered head tube and how I have quick release axles.
I have stealth axles. I don't see the need in QR
Should qr skewers be released when the bike is not in use, say one weekend to the next
Hey Doddy, did you mention that the different types have different thread pitches? So if for some reason someone needs to replace one, to make sure they get an appropriate type. I had to buy a through axle adapter for a turbo trainer to fit a niner RDO gravel bike that uses 142 x 12. That's when I found out that they are not all the same thread pitch.
Quick release is superior
Great vid... how about brake maintenance, bleeding etc?
Hey Gerard, check out these videos for Shimano and SRAM brake bleeds:
Shimano: gmbn.eu/4k
SRAM: gmbn.eu/Sl
You might want to include Magura, very popular now. Though I've been on Magura brakes for over a decade.
Good stuff for tightening it, One question, should you put grease on the axle? If so, what type?
Love your vids
thanks Doddy, brilliant, apparently not me, since I thought Neil's race at ard rock enduro he had maybe installed a skewer wrong. it must of been a dt style. this channel and presenters are the best...
Excellent video, a friend of my bought a Rockshork Judy fork and it came with a MAXLE without quick release, we've tried to release with a alen key but it's impossible, i'm wondering if you might know which tool we can use for this purpose, thanks great channel!
i wonder guys if you saw a flash of black on the screen at 1:52 or 1:53
What's the best axle to use with a front hub motor
Is there a way to adapt a 20mm front hub to a 15mm fork axel? Is there a way to change or adapt a quick release wheel to thru axel? Thanks.
I have Maxle Stealth, Is it possible to switch to QR Maxle ? The advantages would be not having to have an Allen key to hand and the correct torque setting.