Never Change Water Manually Again! DIY Auto Water Changes | How to Build a Fish Room (Part 5)
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- čas přidán 19. 06. 2024
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I installed a Rain Bird controller and valves for the DIY auto water change system in my fish room.
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At Aquarium Co-Op, we focus on your aquariums. We specialize in freshwater tropical fish, aquatic plants, and the overall betterment of the freshwater fish keeping hobby. Our goal is to help you with your first pet fish and graduate you to an advanced aquarium hobbyist. If you'd like to take it to the next level, subscribe to Aquarium Co-Op and check out our weekly videos.
Cory McElroy is employed by Aquarium Co-Op LLC. He also owns Aquarium Co-Op LLC. Therefore, all content is sponsored by Aquarium Co-Op.
0:00 - What I got done in the fish room today
1:35 - The next day: plumbing parts arrived
5:11 - Supplies I need to buy
6:40 - Update on the water change system build
9:26 - Working on the water change system
#Aquariumcoop #Aquariumfish #Fishtank
can't wait until one day i have auto water change lol
So cool (and helpful!) to see the early days!!!
thankyou for linking the video sir, not only the video is informative but your comment section too.
great job as usual
If you want foolproof, do what you have, plus add a large bulkhead that goes from a point higher than your max water level expectation to a drain. That way if your valve fails, you will not flood. Also, you could just use the large bulkhead to drain as max water level and run the fill solenoid valve on a timer. If your timer is just a little bit longer than it takes to fill to max point, some water goes to drain, but this should be foolproof. Hope this helps.
many people cut off the tops of those things. I assume if you cut the top off that the chlorine should evaporate? I think people say it takes 2 days to evaporate so if you put a circulating pump in there and left it for 2 days most of the chlorines should evaporate so you dont have to put in such a large amount of conditioner each time?
What would you recommend to replace the AVA valves ?
Is this the same type of set up you would use in a fish store?
What filters do you use? Do you have a link
Looks good! I'll be interested to see how the system works out. I've experimented with similar automatic water change systems and one major challenge is to make sure all the debris off the bottom of the tanks find their way out. I'll look forward to seeing how your system tackles that.
+Iowa Discus Well That is a different problem and I do know a way to tackle that. But I'm not like most people. I want the mulm on the bottom of my tanks. I take a very natural approach to aquariums. Most people would say mulm = nitrates in the water. But in lakes and rivers etc there is insane amounts of mulm/gunk between rocks, logs etc and fish thrive there. I find that fry and shrimp do much better when the mulm is left to build up.
+Aquarium Co-Op I can definitely see your point with regard to the shrimp. But if some of the tanks are for growing out fry (I don't remember if they will be, have you given a comprehensive vision for the fishroom? Might be a good video by itself) the nitrate buildup will slow/stunt growth unless the water turnover rate is pretty substantial (what is the turnover rate for each of your tanks, have you measured?). I agree that pond buildup is important in breaking down waste, but the fish concentration is also much, much lower in a natural environment. My approach is to use one or two powerful airstones which create water turbulence that catches waste products and allows them to leave the tank. I use the round ones, and they work very well. Do you have another approach that also works? Also, Merry Christmas (if you celebrate) and thanks again for all your vids.
how do you dechlorinate the water from the tap?
My question is what is the amount of ppm water You are using?
Hi Cory,
Question about your drainage and auto water change system. I want to modify my fish racks to support grow-out tanks for fry; these tanks (about 15) are 5 gallons in volume.
1. Would you still recommend drilling these small tanks for overflow into the rack drainage system?
2. What about hooking them up to the auto-refill system? I know I can control the flow of new water into these tanks with valves, but even at a slow rate of drip (e.g., 1 gallon/hr), I don't know if the fry would tolerate such frequent water changes.
I'd greatly appreciate your input/opinion. Many thanks sir!
+hmrhuang Sorry I missed this question. I personally would drill the tanks. or possibly create PVC overflows. You can also control the water changes with time. You could have the water change system turn on for 5 minutes for example instead of an hour if you were worried that 1 gallon per hour was too much etc.
Is it ok to have an electrical panel in a prospective fish room? And would I have to specially insulate or seal it?
I have one in my room. And at my store etc. It should be fine. Don't put a fish tank infront of it. And obviously mount it higher on the wall not the floor. but you should be just fine.
+Aquarium Co-Op Thanks!
great video. Just a word of caution with the float valve. I used a similar system with a toilet float valve and when empty the arm of the float would sit vertically against the wall of the barrel. When filling up sometimes the float would tend to stay stuck against the wall of the barrel and would not lift: result being that i still flooded :) had to tie a string to the float that would prevent it from going to a vertical position.
+Steph L Good call. That reminds me, now that it is in it's final place. I need to plumb the storage tank's overflow. So in case something does go wrong, it'll auto drain.
good idea
I know this video old but just a suggestion you might wanna have GFI outlets everywhere in the fishroom that's near anywater
How are you changing the water with out removing the chlorine? What % of water change?
There is a water reservoir that you fill up that is usually a couple hundred gallons that you treat so that it can go into your tanks. If you're on well water you don't have to treat it.
how do you declorinate the water in supply tote?
I don't I gas off the chlorine with aeration.
thank you
How long does that take for your 300 gallon tote?
@@mdmeyerpfa good question unanswered. and what about choramine? that doesn't 'off-gas'.
David A You’d have to use a water conditioner like Prime but not all municipalities use chloramine due to the high cost versus chlorine.
hi, why you need water storage?
Because at the time of shooting this video I didn't have hot water in the fish building.
i see, thx
So in that 24hr time period that the water is heating, is that enough time to dissipate the chlorine/chloramines in the water? Do you have some way to treat that? Also, I assume everything likes your Ph out of the tap huh? LUCKY! (Here on the other side of the state from you, we have liquid rock.)
+Jeff Boyus We have very soft water so all my tanks run crushed coral. We only have chlorine in the water over here so I can just gas it off. If I had chloramines I'd put in a different system.
So my tap water has chloramines in it... I was just planning a very slow drip through a carbon filter before going into the tank. Would that work? Or could i just have diluted prime/safe dripping into the tank in proportion to the amount of water dripping in? Other ideas?
I liked the channel better back when you did this type of content,.. The new fish room looks good & all, but this type content here the average Jo could do. Still a fan of the channel, jus sayin' ..
*Watch the entire "How to Build a Fish Room" series:* geni.us/FishRoomBuild
Man - camera angle! Got turned off by looking up your nose. Probably got some good content - I'll never know.
You were seeing the content. Each episode features a different nose goblin.
thankyou for linking the video sir, not only the video is informative but your comment section too.