GM 8.5 10 bolt crush sleeve eliminator overview
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- čas přidán 21. 06. 2018
- In this video I show what a crush sleeve eliminator is, what it does, where it goes, and why it is different than the normal crush sleeve that comes with gear installation kits.
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You explained the procedure the best I have heard thank you. I am an ASE certified tech and not only were you spot on but you covered everything in a very easy to understand way. I subscribed! Great work keep the vids coming bro!!!
Dude, I'm gonna try one of these on my next axle because it's so easy to over-crush the sleeve and have a major headache. THANK YOU.
Great Info. Was talking to a friend who swears by this! I am getting ready to pull a part my 78 El Camino 10 bolt and upgrade to posi and 3.42 gears during winter! I feel much better knowing that it is not as bad as it looks! Thanks!
You can also put a shim under a crush sleeve to get yourself back on the road without a new one...
I picked up a Torque multiplier tool for the pinion preload and it works great every time... A must have tool for me.. Thanks for the video..
Love your videos bro keep it up great Chevy information from you for sure
I’m planning out the rear end on the old blue truck and came across this! Good info here. I’ll be doing a Detroit trutrac and 3:73s with c clip eliminator kit. Then it’s time for some caltracs!
I put one of these in my 7.625 rear axle in my S10 p/u when I put a Torsen differential in it from a Camaro. , Works great. Just bought one extra outer bearing and ground out the inner race so it would slip on & off. Used that for the set up bearing. After using this,I'd never even bother using a crush sleeve. Use one of these instead.
My 8.8 in my fox crushed down on a spirited rip one night n the bearing lost a roller that went thru the ring & pinion LOL still drove tho! Got a solid one in there now!
I have a 7.5 that I plan to replace the pinion crush sleeve with an eliminator kit. When I changed the pinion seal, I thought I put it all back together according to spec, then I heard a high pitch whine, then a howl. I again pulled the old crush sleeve out, installed and torqued a new one that I over crushed, what a pain in the ars. So I bought and waiting on the eliminator kit. I'm also changing gears in the 8.8 I have in my Bronco. I will forsure use the eliminator kit in that. I beat the snot out of the Bronco off road. I've noticed the pinion / ring gear backlash is now out of spec. I blame the over crushing of the crush sleeve due to heavy use. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching! I definitely feel a crush sleeve eliminator is an upgrade when building axles!
Proper pinion bearing preload.. Say that a few times in a row.. lol
As a current cummins tech let me just say couldn't have been explained better really enjoying your videos man🤙
Thank ya! That means a lot to me!
I can understand why this will take a little time to set up you will not ruin a crush sleeve and have to wait until tomorrow when you have to race tomorrow. If you want to change gears then you know you can get this right every time. To me there are more pros than cons. I am rebuilding my 8.5 and am going to use this.
Thanks for the information and I just subscribed.
I have a 85 Chevy Caprice and I'm putting Posi 342 gears in there. My axles are too small for the setup what do I need to do
Great vid ,I Bought one too but whats the final torque on it ?
Have a question, I have my pinion depth set to within .002, also have the Yukon eliminator kit, have my NEW large bearing pressed on with the shims... do I still use my old bearing to set the preload with the eliminator and shims and to what torque spec do I use. I have new gears and they call for 160 ft lbs...do I need to do this each time to set the preload?
Will the size of the beatins mater between 8.5 and 9.25 will they work the same
I tightened nut too tight and rear end whines.Can I replace crush sleeve without too much hassle?
Very nice video.
I argued with a shop a while back about a crush sleeve purpose.
I won’t name the shop but they are a well known shop that say they specialize in differential repairs.
They said the crush sleeve does not have anything to do with preload on the pinion bearings 😮.
It’s amazing to me how axles can be such dark magic to people that you think would know better. 🤦🏻♂️
Hey I just realized something that it may be wise for you to remind your viewers about,I have an 8.5 that I went from open I think 3:08 to posi 3:73 and I don’t like throwing stuff away but decided it was too low for every day driving and thought I might try 3:42 and figured I’d have to buy a new set or go to the junk yard and find an old cop car.it dawned on me today to get a book out and check pinion info and sure enough the 3:73 & 3:42 share the same ring gear and the 3:08 share’s the same pinion so it may save folks time and money to check some of this stuff out.i still have check but I think I have a couple 3:08’s which with the pinion from one of those added to the new 3:73 ring gear I’m in business with a 3:42.it may not mean much to you now but I’ll bet some of your viewers would like to be reminded of this type of info cause sure enough either they or a friend will have it laying around and you’ll be the hero for reminding folks about their junk.i was set to buy it myself.i was just looking around and came across your site thought you might like to be that guy.lol have a good one
What is this crush sleeve eliminater? What's the part # and how do I actually utilize it? What is the nightmare scenario to avoid?
I think it’s possibly to assemble the entire set in a press, and put pressure on the crush sleeve right until the carrier stops wobbling
Thanks bro
What up ! I have a 92 C1500 4.3 liter V6 5 speed manual 2wd my pops messed up the rear pinion seal and the yolk some rope got stuck in the pinion seal and even got into the bearing I've been pulling pieces out of the bearing with some needle nose plyers. I got most of it out I'm pretty sure because not much differential fluid was draining until I got most of it out well I'm having problems figuring out what the humming sound is in the differential? If it's the bad seal or something else is messed up , it was my pops truck and he passed away 3 weeks ago and he was the mechanic and I know nothing of mechanic work and I'm disabled on a fixed income and my only help is me and CZcams . The humming sound didn't start until I got about 20 miles away and it happens when I'm in gear and decelerating, I got home and seen differential fluid everywhere under the bed and the rear pinion seal was hanging out well my pops replaced it awhile back when he got the rope stuck in it but didn't get all of it out and I think that's why the seal was bad again Also the 4 bolts on the yolk was a little loose. What do you think or suggest?
If I'm reusing the ring and pinion themselves, could I measure the original crush sleeve with a caliper and set this kit to that same thickness for a good starting point? GM 10 bolt also.
Logic dictates that you will be fine with that. My pinion bearing failed (inner) and the cup had huge marks from the rollers. I'm thinking it was set too tight, so I might ad one extra shim thickness to the spacer and set it to that. No explanation anywhere how to set the thickness when using spacers.
I use these kits I start with the old crush slave plus a few thousand even with a gear change not to overload the bearings then go from there
Yeah, that should be fine, as a starting point. Always end up with using the torque wrench to check the actual rotating bearing preload
I need to replace my pinion seal in my '00 z28 camaro... how do I tell how much to torque the nut to get the proper preload? (I'm a noob)
I have considered hiring someone to do this job but I'm worried they're not going to put it back together properly
If I had to do it by myself, with minimal amount of work, I'd remove the wheels, and rotate the pinion nut and check how much rolling resistance there is. (pinion bearings preload, carrier bearings preload, gear mesh friction and axle shaft seal friction, its all accumulative). Let's say that it's 35 inch pounds rolling resistance on the pinion nut with the old seal. Mark that down.
Now, take the nut off, yoke off, old seal off , and replace the seal. Reinstall everything.
Now keep slowly tightening up the pinion nut till you end up with either 34 or 35 inch pound of rolling resistance, back on to the pinion nut. That should be pretty accurate if you ask me.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
Man if I was gonna try a crush sleeve I would need a box of a dozen
Ha yeah they can be a pain for sure
WHERE IS YOUR SHOP LOCATED?
Good info!
Why don't they make cruck sleeve eliminators for the for the 8.6 10 bolt or the 14 bolt 9.5?
If you were close enough to me I'd have you do my rear diff with the crush sleeve eliminator kit. Are you In ga?
How much play on outermost tip of big gear, 5/32? Need fix w/o guage. Guess ok. Thanks
Dumb question. My rear pinion seal is leaking, do I need to worry about all of this when I go to replace it? She's just a hauling some shit twice a year truck, no concerns about too much torque or beatin er up. So far I keep seeing 'count your exposed threads and paint a line' for a reinstall...
I recently took my yoke off of my 10 Bolt Dana rear end and I was wondering if I am going to screw up the crush sleeve when I put my yoke back on?
Do not use impact. I learned hard way.
@@austinconaway3314 thats what i just fuckin did
brother I have problems with my differential c10 85 the arrows vibrate
I've got a 2005 GMC Yukon 5.3L 4x4 with 234,000 miles, all stock. It makes a clicking noise that I can usually only hear with windows down and driving next to something like a wall or tall curb.
It only does it when applying gas though, and in a forward gear.
I have examined the u-joints and driveshafts and they look fine and tight. It does look original.
Do you think this is the issue? Thanks!
It could honestly be a lot of things. Could be in the brakes, u-joints, even the front end. Your really need to troubleshoot the whole truck to pinpoint where the noise is coming from.
Question: on my 1973 cutlass 3:42 posi I replaced the pinion seal. I was unaware of the crush sleeve. Now it leaks like a sive. Are these related to each other? What is the way back to normal? Thanks
The crush sleeve is what creates preload on the pinion bearings. If you have the preload set properly on the pinion and it spins correctly, then the crush sleeve isn’t the problem. Could have a bad seal, or a bad sealing surface on the yoke
I got 85 c10 2wd with a 8.5 10 bolt what’s the spline ?
Matc10 85 if its original, it will be 28 spline. Swapping in 30 spline shafts is easy though
My 82 c10 is a 28 spline. I think by 85 or 86 they were 30
شكرا
I wish some one made a 9.5 crush sleeve eliminator
Since these are not factory replacements how do you know what to torque the pinion nut to. Factory specs. are always to torque the pinion nut until you get the right pinion bearing preload in inch pounds of rotational force or break away force. Plus the pinion nuts always have a locking mechanism such as thread locker which will effect the torque applied to the pinion nut. I have used these before but never knew if I was applying the correct amount of torque to the pinion nut. I too found it annoying to fiddle multiple times with the shims to get the correct preload and sometimes I would get different preload if I torqued the pinion nut to 150' lbs. or to 180' lbs. It wasn't consistent. I have a torque multiplier and pinion flange holding tools that have served me well and with caution and patience I'm able to get the crush sleeve set right the first time. I do recommend for beginners or low experienced technicians to purchase a spare crush sleeve just in case. I will say if you use one of these kits perform your initial setup with the old nut and no oil seal. Once you know that your pinion depth is correct you can put the pinion seal in and use the new nut to install your pinion with the eliminator kit. I will also say if you don't have a torque multiplier to tighten the pinion nut wit a crush sleve you should seriously consider using one of these kits. And, never ever use an impact gun to tighten your pinion nut unless you don't care if you damage your bearings.
I wish there would be a video explaining what you said here. I'm on my back trying to put the pinion in and wanted to reuse the old crush sleeve as there is no way that I can crush it with 300 ft/lb torque under a car. Also I have a 1/2 Torque wrench and that goes to 200 ft/lb so I'm out of options but to use the eliminator. My issue is how to measure or set the distance/depth ? You all talk that you have to set it first and then install the eliminator. How ? The outer pinion bearing is presses on the pinion shaft and if you want to remove the pinion, then you have to start banging on it like crazy again to get the bearing off. It took me 10 minutes to get that bearing out, so I'm not looking forward doing it again and again. Once that sucker slides on the pinion it is done. I'm doing it on a driveway laying on my back. No option, have to work with what I got.
Not sure if your just replacing bearings or a whole gearset. If you are just replacing bearings you most likely can reuse the same pinion depth shim. If you don't understand pinion depth you can watch the video on DrivelineMaster on pinion depth explained. If you don't have a depth gauge unfortunately you may have to install and remove the pinion several times as you set your pinion depth based on contact patch. One way around this is to purchase a second front pinion bearing and hone out the inner race so it just barley slides onto your pinion. That way it will remove without banging on it. Once you determine you have the correct pinion depth and the correct eliminator shim for proper preload install the front bearing that was not modified and torque your pinion nut down with the eliminator kit. Laying on your back it might be worth the expense of a second front bearing that you modify to make your setup easier.
@@oldwortex5818 You can buy a bearing that slips on & off. They call it a set up bearing. Then when you get the right pinion bearing preload. You take that bearing off and put the press fit bearing on. Or you could make your own set up bearing. Get a grinding stone,put on a drill. Grind out the center of the race until it just slips on & off the pinion shaft. Its pretty easy if you put the bearing in a vise. Might need 2 grinding stones. Die grinder is faster.
I’d love for someone to put up a video of replacing the seal and how to retorque penion without replacing crush sleeve
My opinion
Tighten pinion nut back to factory spec
@@CHEVYK10 good to know, what causes them to sometimes loosen? I have never attempted diff work, but have come across a few with pinion nuts that were not very tight in doing other maintainence - I appied loctite to them and tightened them up
Where are you from ? Great video!
♥️👍
I think you must have said "crush sleeve" a million times. Show us how to install the anti crush sleeve piece!!!!
Just put the crush sleeve where the crush sleeve goes
😂😂😂
Actually, pre-load solid spacers were the standard long before the crush sleeve came along. My '66 Thunderbird has them. Update: It turns out my T-Bird had a crush sleeve. Whodathunk it? But both types were used in the '66. Luck of the draw, I guess.
You can always lap the end of the spacer and shorten it .001" or .002" to get a length that you can't get with the shim pack. In other words, take the combination that had the preload on the low side of the spec and lap the spacer to increase the preload.
snaproll94e yup, it’s all about getting the right stack, and it’s surprising how little the thickness will change to have a big impact on the preload
Solid spacers all the way and attention to detail using the correct methods makes for a bullet proof build.
snaproll94e yup, 100% attention to detail really matters
snaproll94e if you can lap 1/1000’s evenly, then you probably have the equipment to machine your own spacer lol
@@LagmasterB It'll be close enough, I surface small parts all the time.
did NOT see him put it in?
Use Ratech's Smart Sleeve...proven winner.
Dam I need you to help me with mine You make house calls we can get 999k viewers to pay for the beer 🍻
PART#YGA-55048
No torque specs?
Next video
Good God, what a goober. I've installed hundreds of crush sleeves without a failure or overcrush. Sounds like you need to put impact gun away.
Stop already!! For God sake show us to install it.
Thank you!
3 Jesus answered and said unto him, Verily, verily, I say unto thee, Except a man be born again, he cannot see the kingdom of God.
BlaBlaBla get to the point
Too much talk, not enough doing.
you talking so much with nothing making sense.
WOW You talk to much. show what your talkin about .