Conserving Gallenga’s Theodosia
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- čas přidán 3. 12. 2023
- The Italian artist Maria Monaci Gallenga began creating artistic dress for herself around 1910. This clothing followed a value system that emphasized craftsmanship and the pleasure of making, production methods based on historical techniques, and referenced past modes of dress such as Medieval and Renaissance fashions. Her clothing was created in close collaboration with a seamstress who would cut pattern pieces that Gallenga then printed using carved wood blocks and metallic powder pigments to produce motifs with a magnificent ombré effect, described akin to “water and moonlight.” While her Rome space functioned primarily as a salon, she collaboratively opened a Florence shop, and then Paris boutique in 1926 entitled Gallenga France (later the Boutique Italienne), which sold fabrics and clothing, furniture, and decorative arts. Gallenga exhibited her own textiles internationally, and frequently used her boutique to host exhibitions of her Italian colleagues’ work, actively promoting the legacy of Italian art and handcraft.
When curator Mellissa Huber and conservator Melina Plottu first examined Maria Monaci Gallenga’s “Theodosia” tea gown, (1925), they feared it would be too fragile to ever include in an exhibition. Follow their conservation treatment of the gown and learn about Gallenga’s unique vision as a textile artist and fashion designer.
Archival images courtesy of Roma, Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea, Archivi delle Arti applicate Italiane del XX secolo
Featured Artwork:
Gallenga (Italian, 1918-1974) Maria Monaci Gallenga (Italian, 1880-1944). “Theodosia” tea gown, ca. 1925. Purple silk velvet printed with silver and gold metallic powder pigment; replica sleeves of purple silk crinkle chiffon embroidered with glass beads. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, gift of Mrs. Francis Coleman and Mrs. Charles H. Erhart Jr., 1975 (1975.383.3)
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© 2023 The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Gallenga is hands down my favorite top designers, and her work is sadly so obscure. So glad this gown and your work restoring it was featured!
Gallenga's work is absolutely stunning and deserves to be highlighted more often! Thank you for showing the restoration process on this piece.
I bet she had great parties in this dress. She wore it because she loved it, and the memories it was part of. She let others see it because she loved it. So great to see this.
Imagine being able to wear that exquisite dress! I can just feel myself flowing instead of walking, feeling silky and luxurious.
Thank you for sharing this. It's so important to show the work that goes into preserving these designs.
Thank you for watching!
Sooo beautiful. You both did a great job of identifying and restoring.
I love the perfect simplicity of this dress. I once worked on an exhibition of Mariano Fortuny’s clothing, and immediately thought of his velvet prints so can see why it was initially misattributed, but his are far more elaborate. This one is beautiful.
thank you for english subtitles at the bottom of the video!! always appreciate Met’s wonderful conservation. Thank you so much!
Great video!! Keep them coming!
Stunning gown! In another life I would have loved to be a textile conservator. But, growing up in Australia in the '70s and reaching university age in the early '80s there was no way to know that this was even a potential job. The chances of even getting a job in this field are miniscule, so it is no surprise that Ms Plottu is still in awe of her job. Now, with the internet, young people really have the world at their fingertips.
Her work is like Spanish designer Mariano Fortuny. Maria Gallenga. The Cobalt Violet is gorgeous.
What a timeless treasure! And still very wearable today .
A remarkable creative! Thank you for your introduction to the life and work of La Gallenga! You made all the right choices on her behalf, for all the right reasons. Until fabric conservation methods catch up to Gallenga's ethereal fabric design, a reproduction intervention is the next best thing. So happy to see the sublime results! 9:44 💟💟
Very interesting
Merveilleux ❤
A truly beautiful gown!
Thank you for sharing this lovely design.
Beautiful! I have velvet material and chiffon that I now know what I can create. Perfect.
WOW IT LOOKS MAGNIFICIENT
Wonderful work and inspiring. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Well Done. You have warmed my soul. Muffy from Oz (Australia)
Beautiful!
Beautiful conservatorship
Wonderful
💜💜💜
one of the Sleeping Beauties fashion collection/exhibition in the upcoming MET Gala
I have no idea why this is in my feed but the first thing that crossed my mind was make a the absolute best replica possible to preserve the intent. Store the original until technology catches up.
Both Gallenga and Fortuny were geniuses and was this from the Sandy Schreier Collection that the Met 2qe was incredibly lucky to have donated? Any more vlogs on fashion restoration? What does the Callot Soeurs 1910-1914 Evening Gown look like from all sides not just the side? Thanks ❤❤❤
The other thing is the dress should be mapped at extreme resolution. Something like phaseone iq4 would capture every imaginable detail in a digital file for easy examination.
❤ ✿❧🌿❧✿ ❤
allthyme
Please, can we all stop using question marks after statements? It's only for questions. Thank you!
Time will forever know when this was filmed by the idiotic masks. Rest of the production is great.