Video není dostupné.
Omlouváme se.
Tesla Low Voltage - How does it work? DEEPish DIVE!
Vložit
- čas přidán 7. 11. 2021
- People have been asking for me to explain things more, so let's see how this goes. Warning 40 minutes of me blabbing about this!!! Released to donors only for private preview.
Here we look at the VCFront controller from 3 and how it compares to the new system used in the Plaid/Palladium.
If you like my content and want to support me doing more: www.paypal.com...
Sorry, I couldn't do this one in 4K, it was too long. I need a better camera!
If you are new to my channel please checkout my older videos! Subscribing will also really help!
For me with hobby electronic knowledge the detail level is perfect on point
Well this channel blew up. Congratulations Phil! Long time follower.
Did you called him Phil ? if so now we will have to call him Dr. Phil
@@V10PDTDI Please don't. This Phil is real.
The main controller on the Model 3 VC Front board (ST SPC56 microcontroller) is made in a 90 nm process, in case anyone wants to know.
Not anymore
90nm so old
@@ThompYT Have they re-worked it for a different process?
That would be surprising. Changing the process requires re-layout to conform to the new design rules. That definitely will change the analog sections and timing, and may subtly change the logic. High reliability parts need to be requalified with extensive tests. That's almost never worthwhile because of the reduced margin on legacy parts.
@@1djbecker yeah well they changed to silicone carbide and a smaller process as far as I'm aware
@@ThompYT The processor isn't likely silicone carbide. That process is only used for high temperature or high voltage power devices.
8:01 I've recently worked with those types of precision resistors. They are fascinatingly simple yet advanced. Usually they are made from constantan or manganin... a copper alloy with extremely stable resistance. This is necessary when high current flows through... they heat up. If it was copper your current measurements would dramatically drift with varying loads.
Thank you for your work. The level of detail and the explanations were great, at least for me the difficulty level was spot on.
Awesome, love the deep dives, the deeper the better for me, but realise that not everyone has the background to follow.
First time I've ever seen press fit only power connectors. Can appreciate the benefits though.
Seems overly complex to use the PCS to boost 12V to HV to precharge when they could just use a current-limiting resistor from the pack to do it, like other EVs do.
Does it avoid the need for another contactor to switch in and out a precharge resistor maybe?
How is it more complex? It's less parts! Keep in mind this is a "free" solution, as the PCS DC-DC is already synchronous. So it's only firmware, and it's way more reliable and fault-tolerant than a simple resistor. Also resistors suck, they charge the bus fast in the beginning and exponentially slower as the dV closes. With a software controlled system, you can make it nice and linear or any curve you like.
With that you can avoid a pre-charge relay + resistor that might have to be rated for continuous operation in case of a control failure which would make the resistor huge. Also the pre-charge relay would be a mechanical thingy that they would be happy to replace with the sync dc-dc converter they already had
So to clarify, the 12V battery/VC front basically performs a DC-to-DC voltage up-conversion from around 13V to whatever the HV pack voltage is at the time? Seems like this could require a more capable 12V battery than if it were only energizing two contactor coils during the wake up process (ie.. 12V battery nearing end of life)? If you disconnected the 12V negative battery cable then attached a jumping device (jumppack, jumpstarter, jumper cables, or another 12V battery) between the positive post and the remove negative cable, this same DC-to-DC up-conversion would happen on the Model 3's (ie.. cars 12V battery is not in the circuit)?
@@ronolsberg1468 its very minimal power, just enough to charge the DC Link capacitors in the inverters to a voltage that won't produce a big current inrush. As soon as the caps are charged the big contactors can be closed
Enormous respect for your work, and sharing these views/your expertise. I’ll only voice a small wish that one day you’re able to upgrade your camera setup - watching this on a 4k screen leaves a bit to be desired, when the subject focuses so heavily on such small components.
Yeah, I've done some 4K content, but it's difficult with my present setup. As more people support the channel financially, I should be able to improve the tech side.
I liked the video for its good content, explanations, abbreviation expansions. Would like even more however if there was a little more structure:
0) case, weather protection, thermal system
1) interfaces to power, ground and power supply
2) interfaces to car bus networks and other ECUs
3) interfaces to sensors and actors
4) controller and firmware storage on the board
5) then the individual subsystems on the board
6) debug connectors (JTAG stuff)
Going from black-box view to white box view. And I would appreciate yellow labels like Prof. Kelly from Weber State puts on all parts. 🙂
I particularly liked the length and depth of the video, but structure and topic sections (jump labels/skip marks) would help. And maybe you could add a whiteboard (like the Engineering Explained fellow Jason Fenske) and draw schematics on relevant aspects. Just with no formulae from mechanical engineering, but simple schematics like ECU locations and wire routing to explain the concept of redundancy. Or to explain the sections of a board.
Yellow labels and schematics ?? LOL.
This is not for beginners, really. This is for people willing to learn but not an electronics class.
You're again very demanding and I'm curious if you donate to the channel, and how much to be comfortable asking so much?
After watching this I just have to donate! Thank you for this 👍
Dude, I'm so happy I found your channel. What a wealth of information.
Automotive cooling fan engineer here, we have made 48V brushless radiator fans ~1.5 kW. No one seems to want them. I think OEMs are trying really hard to be 12V or high voltage only. (Skipping 48V.) Plenty of requests for 400V - 800V fans right now.
Interesting
@@1943vermork we made a 12" 850 watt, and a 19" 1.5kW. Not really any serious takers
@@brentchuck1664 I remember reading 20 years ago about “the future 56~60 volts automotive architecture”
Now it look like we will stay at 12V with optional 400-800 pack voltage for high consuming devices.
Turning 'it the right way up to prevent the electrons from pouring out' had me laughing. Thanks for the humour, and for the excellent simplified descriptions.🙂👍
When I was a kid, in the 1960-70 period, TVs were required by law to include a schematic. This was to allow repair by independent shops. I read that the law came about after imported TVs without documentation could not be repaired or took a lot of time and money to diagnose.
We need this right-to-repair for cars! Do what you can to support it!
Thank you for an interesting overview, was watching your channel for 4 hours in a row. Greetings from Russia!
Thanks for watching!
no glue needed nowdays for having components on both sides. Great content!
@27:49 on the left of the choke you can see a 3 legged device (sot 23-3) that is TVS diode to protect the from voltage transient (spikes)
@39:13 you can clearly see 3 of them.
Love all the great coverage of the original VCFront! Thanks, CDB
Apologies if you have already addressed this…
Why are you not working for Tesla?!?!? (No joke)
You rock! And seem to fully understand what it is going on in their vehicles. They defiantly could use someone like yourself.
Love how you explain things, very clearly yet simply. Plus you actually “show” the part you are referring to. Which helps me greatly in understanding what is going on. So, thank you so much!!!
Thanks, but they are not a good employer to work for, and I would definitely not be able to make YT videos if I did. I make a decent living consulting, and have done so for over 20 years, why would I give that freedom up?
@@Ingineerix uau.... you reached an aspect I needed ... for the next stage of my life. Tesla brandenburg or.....tks
Awesome video. My favorite info was that the pumps are dumb 3 phase brush-less motors. Cheaper and simple. The e fuse is a great topic as this allows less heat and v drop as the normal fuses are heaters running at high temp and dropping v that could have been useful at the load. Better efficiency all day every day in addition to allowing overloads that are desired also with out excess thermal and v losses!! super cool
Yeah, it's little tiny stuff like this, simple dumb motors with sophisticated electronic control of the drive waveforms rather than a relatively more expensive dc brushless motor, that highlights to me how difficult it is going to be for long established OEMs to compete with Tesla. If the new Chinese EV OEMs also adopt this technology, they too will be very difficult competition to companies that mostly employ test engineers to evaluate Tier 1 and 2 supplier offerings.
Thank you, very instructive. One year are on, Tesla have now opened up the diagnostics as you hoped they would. A video on that with reference back to your previous videos would be welcome.
I already did one recently: czcams.com/video/iCa4AB2PS_I/video.html
Just looked up the MCUs... exact same processor, different package.
The part ending in L8 is a 208 lead LQFP; the part ending in B3 is a LBGA 256 ball.
I knew someone would do this, Thanks! =)
Love the video.. I’m an electrical engineer for an Automotive supplier for power distribution boxes AKA fuse boxes... What I see in production today for other OEMs is at least 5 years behind the model 3 and 8 years behind the Plaid.. Amazing integration into one module!!
Lol.......that's what she said!
@32:49 from the mosfet count, those are not brushless, those are brush pumps. There is 4 motor driver and 16 mosfet. To make hbridge that would be 4 mosfet per pump. Check the part of the motor driver and you will see in the datasheet the schematic. I am willing to bet those are DRV8703 from TI. Same chip use in model 3 body control.
Great videos! And I didn’t even have to buy ANOTHER $13 bumper sticker! I have been a ice ASE master tech for over 25 years now specializing in diagnostic repair. This is very exciting to see the insides on a component level. I am The kind of person that if the TV goes black I will take it off the wall get a screwdriver and a fluke meter and figure out what the heck happened, get my soldering station find some components to replace put it back on the wall and make it work.
Loved the detail! Another interesting topic would be which microcontrollers Tesla flashes during a SW update. Also anything you can share on the SW tools for diagnostics, if you have access to them.
I already have a video called "Secret Signals" that gets into some of this: czcams.com/video/CLOEGFtFIPA/video.html
Love these explanation vids! Great work!
Love the comments on right to repair!
Absolutely love your Deepish Dive format. Tesla's speed of innovation is mind blowing...I wonder if other manufacturers will ever catch up. Thank you very much and greetings from Australia.
Lol... there is litteraly nothing special about this board wtf are you even talking about!!
@@carholic-sz3qv Ah...so it's a standard PCB as used by any car manufacturer?
Love you stuff and love that you want to promote knowledge to the masses! More engineers in USA!
This culture of secrecy is insane, when I was a kid I had access to TV schematics and was able to read it and learn from it. The next generation will have it much harder.
Agreed!
This is brilliant to me. 2 years ago I set out on a mission to make an open source controller for (simpler) designs that incorporate much of the same technology( motorcycles and dune buggies). I've never seen inside the tesla stuff before but it looks like they have solved a lot of the things in similar way that I have. Measuring the current on both sides of the copper resistor takes shockingly little quiescent current. I cut out thin gage sheet metal to beef up the pcb and been meaning to source a supplier to laser cut the sheets. but i like the pnp method that walks "shunts" down the board. I really like the caged in bolt. I spent a week on that problem and came up with XT90 connectors soldered into the board. The bit about the pressed in pins is new to me, will keep in mind. I'm shocked that they didn't conformal coat v1
Pleasure to watch your videos! Thanks for all the knowledge. As we are switching from combustion engines, its important for me to understand how electric cars work on a deeper level. Looking forward for new videos 👍
I've been on a week straight watch binge with your videos of course at work lol They're well made in depth and most importantly very interesting. Thank you for all your hard work !
Thanks! First time I've heard I've contributed to a binge! =)
I remember opening my radio stereo as a kid, and finding a circuit diagram inside the plastic cover. It allowed me to work and modify the the circuit. I learned a lot from that old stereo. That's how a lot of people got into electronics, by opening stuff and messing around with them.
Me too! Sadly it's no longer the case.
Looking forward to right-to-repair vid. (Whether Tesla's service is good or bad is kinda beside the point, imho.)
@35:36 that is a Tag-connect TC2050 10pin. Super cool programming cable. The offer one with "legged" where it clips and hold in place while debugging while the other one like on the PCB you need to apply a certain pressure. It you let the cable crocket on the PCB it does still works but not ideal.
Any way you might be able to use a camera with optical zoom? I think it would help improve the video quality.
Thanks for the videos...they are very informative!
I'm thinking that if you accompany that request with a donation to cover the cost of such a camera, it would be much appreciated!
And I agree, excellent coverage for an accessible overview video.
"Do it the right way round, so the electrons don't fall out"...such a nerd 🤓 I love it 🤣
I've watched the full 40min i love it.
Thank You for teaching me.
My pleasure!
This was amazing, I will watch any similar video from you, definitely keep it up! I would donate in a heart-beat if I had a sustainable income, but unfortunately I do not right now. I very much appreciate these deep-dives, put as much detail as you want! I haven't seen anyone else get as descriptive and yet broad as you, fantastic work!
Thanks! You'll also like this one then: czcams.com/video/62txKc7EtCA/video.html
Great video! Love the longer format with more explanation and more depth.
when you talk about right to repair, you remind me of richard stallman... your drill down explanations are excellent... no need to explain everything, we can use google 😊
i'm heading to paypal to sub monthly ❤️
I love getting my nerd on with you all keep up the good work.
I think during the mosfet discussion it's good to bring up that mosfet's don't have a fixed voltage drop (toll), they have what's called a Rds(on), or the resistance of the mosfet when turned on. This property requires that the voltage difference between gate and source is high enough.
A little too detailed for me but I have enjoyed your videos since I discovered your channel...keep it up
What a greater effort and great insights for aspiring engineers! Thank you very much!
we do not actually wait for glue to set. We put it into reflow oven down the line to harden the glue (it is temperature cured on the much lower temp thou) and then after wholle batch is complete the other side goes to to line this time with solder paste. And the glued chips on the bottom are soldered by solder wawe. But if there is not any parts to require wave soldering we can do both sides to solder paste. The bottom side will stay on board just by tension of the melted solder. We can aplly glue to the some larger components to stabilize them. And the glue will set before solder melts due to lower set temp...
For structure, try one board per video. Maybe take a picture first and annotate the sections and walk trough what they do. Then you can come down to the components.
Hi , I'm new to your channel, and I find the tech very interesting. my question to you, what is your back ground. You sound like an electronics engineer, do keep up with the great videos?
Yes, I am an EE. Thanks!
Real entertainment enjoyed the step through mosfet integration description. Cheers
40 minutes being "long" you say? Nah man, make it 400 minutes I'd still watch!
16:00 I was wondering what that clunk-clunk sound was! I hear it when I first press the accelerator pedal after being parked for a while.
21:27 Tesla is reinventing everything... Cybertruck - 48v low voltage system
Awesome work, thaks for sharing.
Could you do a critique/compare a bit like munro, what would you improve, what is better or worse than what you have seen elsewhere ?
I bet that most improvement that you point out will make it in their next revision.
There's always room for improvement, but Tesla does a pretty good job. I'd say that's their job, not mine, but I'll keep it in mind.
awesome video!
You should join forces with Munro, especially on their Plaid tear down!!!
That would involve me going to Detroit, which I'd prefer not to do. They'd have to pay me a decent amount too.
@@Ingineerix maybe they can ship you some components or just do an episode with video chat in which you discuss electronics with them. They have a LOT of experience on mechanics and it appears you’ll be able to fill in a lot of their gaps on electronics and more specifically on Tesla related design. I’m sure Sandy would appreciate it and it will be a win-win for both sides.
@@ranig2848 Feel free to talk to the them about it.
with regard to dabbing glue on boards that have components on both sides... often times they will use different solder pastes with different melting temps so that the bottom components don't fall off the 2nd time through at a lower temp.
Great teardown and concise explanations of the circuits! Why do you think they have so many test pads all across the board? Think it's for flying probe testing to verify operation of each circuit on the board?
It seems like they removed a bunch of the test pads around the large E-fuse FETs from the original version to the plaid version.
Yes, the most common reason for TPs is during development, secondary is EoL (end of line) production verification. Tesla constantly works to move as many diagnostic functions into software, so it's likely once the eFuse circuitry was proven, they developed software domain ways to verify and prove-out all the circuitry in production.
Why you don't add more videos ? For me your work is a great source of information regarding car electronics and Tesla in particular !
The videos take a lot of time, and since I only have about 35k subscribers, CZcams doesn't pay enough for even minimum wage. Making a living takes priority.
@@Ingineerix I agree! Tnks for your replay! I will continue to follow … so I will see the old videos again! Ciao from TURIN , Italy
@4:25 How exactly do the copper bridges work? Will they allow conducting more current? Or they are just used to dissipate the heat generated by higher currents? Is there any study about these pieces on the Internet (advantages terms of thermal behaviour for example)?
Dont let the smoke out !!
Hey man been thinking about something for a wile and you for sure would know if it's possible or not.
So say you took 2 to 4 model 3 onboard chargers and ganged them together to do at home DC fast charging. Of course in an enclosure, cooling and what ever circuit needed to emulate SC protocol. Just figured it would be a cool project and something Tesla should consider building out for higher end buyers that want the ultimate home charge experience. At most we're talking 100-200A 240v to do it and most homes are capable even if the electrical service needed to be upgraded.
So yea let me know your thoughts and keep up with the regular videos man!
Thanks, Casey
This could be cool, but why? How little do you sleep that you want that charge speed at home? :-)
@@CafeElectric Me and my wife both drive so much that we run down on range sometimes daily. It would be nice to know when at home for a short time say lunch or getting home late we could top off. SC is not close enough yet for peak usage in our area, but we get by with what we have. Say we drove all day and get home with 10% and want to run back to town it's a good 30 minutes minimum to get enough so we're not in the red. Just something I have been thinking about and wonder why the hell not lol....
@@TeslaRebuilders Wow, you sure do have an unusual use case!
I see why you would want that. Custom is always quite expensive but with current off the shelf products you could get a home DCFC that has Chademo from AliBaba, and then use the Tesla adaptor to use that for 50kW charging.
Yeah, this is possible, but hundreds of hours of engineering to get right. No real market for it, so not going to be something I would consider.
@@Ingineerix Thanks for the reply, Yea I figured and that's why I asked the expert!
The two ICs in the e-fuse area: is it apparent by following the PCB traces what jobs each is doing? Like is one - connected to sense resistor - serving as a voltage amplifier? The other - maybe linked by i2c to big ST microcontroller - doing ADC... as well as maybe - linked to FET gates - according to some threshold set in hardware delivering eFuse functionality?
I have not done this level of reverse-engineering. Feel free to buy one and do this analysis, I'd love to hear your results.
Hello, thank you for the fantastic content! You're vids are the BEST from the electronics perspective in TESLA teardowns. I would like to donate from Japan. Please check if it would be possible. BTW, I guess the inductors you mentioned in VCBATT are not ferrite but metal composite. Higher current, better saturation.
This was awesom. Thanks
Love these... Being an electrical/computer/hardware engineer, I think you've got a good level of detail. No need to bog down the video with explanations of general (and recurring) concepts like buck converters or JTAG.... Those can be done by other channels or the viewer can do research on their own.
Thanks for letting us know you're smart, now be a good man and let him make his videos how he wants ok ?
@@typedef_ wtf? I'm just saying he's fine doing it the way he's done it for this video. Detailed explanation of general concepts that are recurring would bog down the videos. Like there are buck converters on pretty much every PCB. It's not unique to Tesla or the specific board at hand. Don't need that explained every time.
You can break these videos in to multiple parts but I for one don’t care. They fly by when the content is interesting!
The copper jumpers also absorbe the heat generated with the voltage passing on the exterior of the wire electricity runs on the surface of the metal.
It's called "skin effect", and that only applies to very high frequencies. Definitely not to 12VDC or even 60HZ AC. But you are right that it also helps with heat spreading. See: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin_effect
Does anyone know where to get these SMD bus bars? Looks like a standard product that can even be assembled automatically?
Thank you for the great insights! I have a question about how tesla controls all these e-fuse to open/close. Is there a central function (e.g. in vehicle computer) sending switch command of all e-fuses to VCs via CAN, or each VC is responsible for managing their own e-fuses? And what are the inputs for controlling the e-fuses, is it depending only on the vehicle status (e.g. close all e-fuse when vehicle is ON, and open the e-fuses which are not required to supply power for ECUs when vehicle is OFF), or there will be more complex strategy to in order to save energy during vehicle operation.
I 'm glad to know the coolant pumps use 3 phase motors for bruss-less motor operation, which gives significantly longer life, while being about 5% more efficient than single phase a/c motors. But how about the electric window motors that run with every door opening & closing, the steering motors & the wiper motors etc? Since the drive-train is designed to run a million miles, are these other little motors designed to last too?
Steering motors are dual 3-phase (2 for redundancy), but the window motors are standard DC brush motors, but I have never seen one fail in a Model 3/Y.
I remember the schematics included when I was in my Ute!
Awesome knowledge, thanks. Long videos are great :)
Are the plaid boards just as susceptible to moisture and corrosion as you pointed out on the 3/Y boards or did Tesla add a more robust enclosure for the boards or conformally coat them? I am not an engineer but I find your videos very interesting and informative. I may not understand what I am looking at, but I can appreciate an elegant design.
The Plaid boards are coated with dielectric grease; a water repellant; the chappie mentioned getting his fingers soiled with it in the video somewhere.
Curious why there isn't redundancy on the ABS circuit like with the steering and AP?
29:50 ah i knew it. the older board pretty much does everything and so much, feels like it is better to have it into two boards since it has redundant systems, also to enable the reduced wiring they have planned for the first Model y
5 of 7 comments. About the drop in MOSFET's being lower with less heat loss and
more efficient, a 100 A fuse has 870 micro ohm of resistance which
is in the same range as MOSFET's used at that current. No significant
heat/power loss with conventional fuse.
My comment about lower loss in MOSFETs was comparing them to BJTs, not fuses. The loss is not why Tesla uses eFusing.
Your knowledge is impressive. Curious, what do you do?
You sure the HV system stays on when sentry mode's on? Why not just keep it off and increase the frequency of the partial charge/discharge cycles on the 12V battery? Too much degredation?
Re: VCFront's redundant power supply to EPAS, it sounds great, but in practice, I'm not sure that their redundancy works that well. I had to have my vcfront replaced because of some fault that basically killed power steering. There was no error code present in the UI and I'm not sure that there were any error codes present at all since it took Tesla a bit to figure out what was happening.
This is to be expected. The redundancy is only active if it fails while driving, not at startup, and not all of the failures will allow redundancy in any event.
Deff do a vid on CAN!
I probably misunderstood but when discussing the the mosfets and the high current copper bars you said, I think, that those wee mosfets could handle up to 250 amps. How is that possible also considering the approx .050 pcb tabs?
I don't think any single MOSFET goes to 250 amps. I said 50A in the video. The output from the PCS going into VCFront can supply up to 225A, so the 4 MOSFETs there share the load for that channel. (~56 amps per MOSFET) Incidentally, that connector tab is 14mm wide.
do you know the part# of the IC directly handling the eFuse/FETs i.e not the main micro, but the auxilliary one near the shunt?
the efuse controllers are custom silicon, they're not publicly available
What chip are the using for the E fuse?
Looking to build my own E-fuse, what chip are they using to measure the current shunt voltage and control the FETs? Or do they use a custom device? Also are they switching high side or low side P or N channel? Or do they use 2 N channels back to back? The chip would have to boost the supply voltage to drive the gate.
The video I saw on the electric steering rack looked like only one brushless motor turning a toothed belt and two power controllers.
Yes, but outside of the motor windings themselves, everything is double-redundant and the 2 sections have separate torque sensors and even separate power feeds. They also cross-check each other continuously.
@@Ingineerix If the electronics monitors motor performance I suppose it could give warning before failure. I flew autoland airliners and they had two physical hardware APs each with two computers. The Tesla also has one, albeit wide belt. Wear looks like it would always be near one place on the belt. I was also an EE back in vacuum tube days. Your videos and knowledge are impressive.
Love this channel. I think you should continue this type of video format, for average hobbies electronics. But would love to see a more advanced version, like reading data from board or connecting to JTAB.
Also @Ingineerix do you recommend any books related to field?
Hi Christian, I am as well looking for any paper/books regarding more advanced analysis of the electronics. Did you find any or @Ingeerix do you have some advises we should take a look? :)
Thank you so much. Can you please try to answer my question: should we as Tesla owners Model 3 and y , 21:14 worry when the warranty of 4 years are over, all that electronic in our cars, scares my a bit, will it cost a fortune to replace or not. ??
I think that will satisfy a lot of us to know.
I don't. I drive salvage Teslas exclusively, and support thousands of salvage cars for other owners. I find Teslas to be extremely reliable cars as long as you avoid anything made before about 2015.
Excellent, very informative video!
Safety is not the only reason not to distribute high voltage all over the car. For low-power devices, at some point the expense of providing the extra insulation, required by high voltage, begins to exceed the ohmic benefits of requiring less current.
Great video! Is Tesla producing these ECUs by themselves, in one specific location, or each plant has SMT lines?
Usually they are made by suppliers.
Thanks for these informative videos. I just had a question hopefully you can help me with. In case of replacing a HV component like pyro fuse, will it be possible to accidentally short/damage the 12V battery? And if that lead to other aux components' failures like AC system, doors,...? Thank you in advance!
If you are replacing a Pyro, the 12v battery is probably end-of-life from sitting dead. Lead-Acid batteries IMMEDIATELY begin to irreversibly sulfate when they are discharged deeply. If you have a car with a 12v battery that sat dead, just replace it! They can have shorted cells which can emit dangerous sulfuric acid fumes and even be a fire risk when the HV system is re-enabled, and the PCS tries to recharge them.
@@Ingineerix thank you very much. In the scenario that my 12V battery is nearly dead, but replaced the pyro fuse before that, would that be causing any issue with AC systems? Since after I replace the pyro fuse, my AC just stopped working along with the 12V replace battery alert popped up
@@Cathyscake Yes, it may load shed because the 12v is dead. I do not recommend you leave that bad 12v in there, in rare cases they have caught on fire, and if it vents sulfuric acid, that could cause damage.
Agree with your comment on conformal coating. I believe that might also help with Tin Whiskers, anyone know for sure?
Yes, some conformal coatings can help with tin whiskers.
Something I've wondered for a while, does the car run cabin overheat + battery temp management off of 12v or does it just switch on the HV for a bit to do the housekeeping stuff and then shut it back off?
Any time the car uses the accessories, the HV is powered up. The only time anything is running off the 12v directly is during sleep.
I liked the comment on products coming with schematics. I loved getting the Apple II schematic and Woz's AppleSoft BASIC source code in the owner's manual.
Do you have any details on J37 Debug header?
Hi! Awesome video! I think(?) I posted a comment before, but I have a question about how the main pack is used in storage situations and try to get clarification on how fast the main pack would actually discharge when left unattended (so much spin and guesses on this online, it's painful!)
Basically, when left unattended and not plugged-in, does the hardware have any way to draw power from the main pack and recharge the lead-acid battery (putting aside sentry mode and climate-control modes)?
Are there any other storage situations that would drain the main pack (heating/cooling the pack)?
Thanks!
Yes, the Gateway or VCFront (depending on Model) will wake the vehicle and initiate a charge session for the 12v battery as it needs. This causes "vampire loss". The system will not wake to heat/cool the pack if it is not being used. If you want to store your car for a long time and not have vampire loss, and can't plug it in, do this (assuming the car is parked inside): 1. Discharge the pack to 50-75%, you do not want a pack sitting long at very high or very low states of charge. 2. Open the frunk, and at least one window in the front, so you are not locked out. 3. On the screen under the service tab, press the "shutdown" button, and exit the car immediately and shut all doors. (except the frunk) 4. In the frunk, remove the plastic plenum cover, and disconnect the 12v battery negative lead. This will require a 10mm wrench. 5. Disconnect the first responder plug (if present), wait 1 second, then reconnect it. Now the car will experience almost no loss. If you will be leaving the car for more than 2 months, you will need to occasionally top of the 12v battery with a charger. Best is to leave a high-quality battery maintainer on the 12v, such as this one: amzn.to/3kpROZw If you can't do this where you are storing the car, you can always remove the 12v battery and take it somewhere where it can be maintained. The car's main pack may lose a few percent over 6 months, but no more than this. The ideal storage temperature for a HV pack is in temperatures you will enjoy (~20c/70f). Though even it higher/cooler temps the pack will not suffer much if it's not being used.
@@Ingineerix Awesome!
If you have access to 110V, does plugging-in the car "cycle" the main battery in any harmful way, or does it only use 110V to keep the car ready for use?
Thank you!
Great video.
Where can i buy such SMT PCB Busbar pieces?
Excellent job!