Seaguar Fluorocarbon Leader Strength Experiment [Blue Label vs. Red Label]
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- čas přidán 16. 11. 2017
- Seaguar fluorocarbon line is one of the most popular of all leaders for saltwater anglers.
And it's also one of the most expensive.
So we thought we'd perform a series of line tests so that we can see which lines truly are top performers without any bias from the manufacturers.
This test shows an experiment of knot strength for Seaguar's Blue Label line compared to their original Red Label series.
The reason we're testing knots is because a line's ability to keep its strength while being contorted in a knot will often determine a line assembly's breaking strength.
So it's essential for us to be using a line that still performs well inside of knots so that we can maximize our overall line assembly.
This is one of many experiments that we'll be hosting, so be sure to subscribe to our website so that you get notified once future tests get published.
www.saltstrong.com
Fish On! - Zábava
These vids are awesome! Very informative!
U should do segaur blue label vs the premier
awesome! thank you for doing the tests. can you try Yozuri HD fluro Vs. Seguar?
Love that u try different lines companys for this... another big name company to try would be bullbuster line. They are blowing up on social media and pretty cheap and comparable to power pro braid. Would love to see tests with there mono and fluoro like this😎
@saltstrong thanks for doing this series of videos, they are really helpful!
I am loving these videos everytime.. how about making SUFIX calema?
I am looking at the new seagurd sst salmon both for tuna albacore & salmon in the west coast I would like to see some reviews 50 lbs test or 40 lbs thank you for your vids
Great video! Have you tried the other Seaguar lines like InvizX and AbrazX?
What's the difference between Blue label and Premier?
Can you also test cheaper brands such as advance fluorocarbon leader by Mitsubishi
Hey man. Theres little to no info on the web on seaguar abrazx 20lb vs redlabel 20lb vs blue label 20lb. Im interested is how the abrazx hold up to them. And another one I like is berkley triline 100% floro in 20lb since its avalible almost everywhere. I use red label 20lb and 15lb for bass fishing leaders for about 5 year with 1 failure due to a big pike. The triline 100% floro ive been testing for a year with equel success. I highly recomend red label main line spools. As leader material connected to braid in 20lb for thick stuff and 15lb for the lighter cover finnesse work.
I recently bought Berkley 65 lb fluorocarbon mail line (thought that I use it as leader line). They said you can see it but fish can not. But as far I know that FC will not be seen when emerge in water because of their refracting index. Under water I can not see any difference between FC and mono. Could you pl help ?
There are people on both sides of that argument... some say refraction is a big deal, others say that the refraction of light is not a factor at all. Instead, they say reflection of light is what fish can see most. Fluoro only has an advantage on refraction, and it definitely has a disadvantage for abrasion and knot strength.
How about Fluoro vs Mono in these tests...say 30#, then Izorline vs Berkeley etc
An eye-opening fluoro vs mono test will be coming out next week.
Can explain [seaguar Neox Yuki vs. seaguar riverge colmic] ?
After watching this i will still continue to buy red label, the difference in price out weighs all of those tests imo. I only use 40lb blue label for big game
I wondered if a double uni-knot to tie the lines together would increase the breaking strength of each one..
I am sure it would. A Bimini twist knot would test 99%.
i would like to see the blue label vs a Yo-Zuri fluoro
That will be coming out soon.
Believe it or not, I've had the best luck all around with 20# spiderwire 100% flouro. Especially for the money.
Have, or are you going to , test the Blue to Pink and/or Gold ?
Great question! Make sure to ask this over in the Community (www.saltstrong.com/) where the coaches spend their time.
Berkley Vanish VS Sea guard Blue label
add the pink label and yellow label to this.
Berkeley flourocarbon
Could've been better if two lines were both tied to a ring or swivel with a same type of knot
These are supposed to be 20# why are they breaking at 13# 14#. At that why not use 15#
The 20# rating is measured on its tensile strength when pulled in a straight line (no kinks).
When a line is contorted into a knot, it creates weak points in the line that will cause breaks to occur at a point that is less than the tensile strength of the line. So this test is being done to see which lines can handle knots better than others.
Salt Strong thank you for that reply I forgot about the knots creating weak points
Salt Strong any suggestion for the best knot strenght for line to hook?
The answer to that depends on many factors... here's a detailed post with rankings of knots that will help you find some good choices depending on the lines you're using and the type of fishing you plan to do. www.saltstrong.com/articles/fishing-knots/
Don`t see why you did the test with both lines together and not each one by it`s self
And were the knots done wet or dry that makes a difference as well
You should have done the test like they did on knot wars
Jim Taylor why don’t YOU try doing a test video? Obviously he could have done various variables, but the test was the test as-is.
yozuri
CaptainSolo
I usually use a 15# Vanish leader. I bought a spool of the pink Yozuri Fluoro in 15#. I would snag on grass or an oyster bed and it snapped too easily. Just my 2 cents..
Loops are weak knots most times. A Bimini twist or Australian braid knot would be 99% loops.
Blue label stretch way more than the red that’s why the red broke first. The red is more pure fluorocarbon but is a harder line. I usually use red for tippet fly fishing. And the blue for leader.
Good idea, but bad method. Every test you did the red label was closest to the gauge. Does it matter? Maybe. Maybe not. But you don't know because you're confounding the results by testing both at once. If you really wanted to test them properly you'd do a break test for each one separately using a real world knot setup that's identical for both lines and compare the break weight at the end. Do you fish with the setup (red connected to blue) like you're using? No! So why would you break test the line that way?!
All this test proves is you need to learn how to tie a real knot. A surgeons knot is nothing more than a glorified overhand knot which is the weakest knot you can tie. Try joining them with a Double uni. Are you tying these wet ?
I thought the same thing about the surgeon's knot until I started testing it out... it has proven to be shockingly strong (actually beating the uni knot in many tests). These knots were placed underwater before the test to make sure that wasn't a factor.
According to the Fluoro manufacturers websites the knots are to be tied wet. NOT placed under water once tied. A dry knot will cut itself. I've seen other tests here on U-tube using clinch knots & Uni's and the knot never fails. Seaguar fails above line rating in all other tests. Your surgeons knot failed every time. Other tests also tied knots with wet line. Seaguar recommends tying knots wet and points out a pro staffers tip of chap stick.