How to soundproof a wall with the ReductoClip™ Independent Wall System
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- čas přidán 1. 08. 2024
- The installation and performance of the ReductoClip™ Independent Wall System. Offering an exceptional wall soundproofing performance and the the ideal wall acoustic insulation for all noise problems. Ideal for excessive levels of domestic noise from noisy neighbours and also used in music studios.
Learn more at:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/...
How the ReductoClip™ Independent System outperforms other clip systems:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/...
00:00 The noisy neighbour issue
01:15 The before sound test
01:36 Soundproofing the alcoves
02:57 Isolation Strip
03:20 Thickness of the system
04:30 Remove any carpet
05:14 Science of the system
06:27 Where to fix the stud frame
07:16 Bringing plug sockets forward
07:52 Remove coving and skirting
09:20 Building the stud frame
09:46 Friction fit mineral wool
11:07 Purpose of mineral wool
12:12 ReductoClip benefits
14:52 ReductoClip spacings
17:10 First layer of acoustic plasterboard
17:45 Plug sockets
19:30 Acoustic plasterboard
20:22 Tecsound
22:48 Second layer of acoustic plasterboard
23:05 Acoustic sealant
23:30 Things to note
25:14 The after sound test
25:38 Summary
27:07 Cost - Jak na to + styl
This is great, but uk law it's ridiculous, this should be mandatory in renting industry to install.
Your products and informationals have been inspirational.
As a DIYer, i have consumed your advice and guidance and proceeded with a solution inspired by yourselves.
In the end, i did not use Reductoclips as i thought i was chasing silent nirvana for a ‘mere’ living room so opted for an Independent wall with Acoustic board > Techsound > Acoustic board and wow, such a positive change.
My walls were complicated with 3 alcoves in an 1800’s property but cripes, the transformation is awesome. I had 16yrs or no neighbour so was a punch in the face to have them but, the fix is thoroughly worthwhile.
They have committed to doing upstairs as i did downstairs, time will tell, but im very happy with downstairs
Natalie
Hey Natalie. Did you put rockwool inbetween stud wall and first acoustic board? I am thinking of doing a similar build to you without reducto clips.
@@aj7803 Hi AJ - yes, Rockwall Acoustic, 50mm from recall, in the cavity of the frame, then Acoustic Board 1 > Techsound 100 > Acoustic board 2
Plasterer soon!
I can still hear their front door and i have since discovered since neighbours appeared, we share floor joists upstairs so i have noise leakage there
I am glad i have done it tho as i cant hear them laughing, talking, music etc. occasionally there is a stomper going up the stairs (a fat guest) but, has been good.
They havent done their upstairs (grrr) but i am looking into what i can do about the joists. Old houses!
Hope that helps AJ
@@MoondawgStudios Yeah that is very helpful. Thank you. Like you said in your first post like you I understand it is never going to be 100% sound proof but it all helps! Not much you can do about stompers!
@@aj7803 I really wanted to use the Resilient Bar and clips as im obsessive but, eventually talked myself down as i watched videos of music studios being near silent on the exterior and i thought perhaps i am going over the top
It may have helped nullify the impact noise but, since learning of the shared joists (only knew once i had neighbours), the bars would likely have been a waste of time as noise leaks through above the wall in the ceiling cavity
Best of luck with your project
@@MoondawgStudios Yeah I had a look at them too but I think the set up you have gone for should work in my place too. On a side note in the 90s I would never have felt confident enough to try to put this up myself but in 2022 thank god for youtube and the internet!
Fascinating stuff
I did my own research for sound isolation in this home and my last one. I am about to pick up the isolation project between basement attic & living level above. All that separated them? Diagonally placed wide plank (approx 6”) sub flooring and narrow oak hardwood floor itself. I can’t dust mop because there’s no dust left when I reach the other side of the room. 🤪
The information you’re sharing on CZcams is not only spot on but presents more effective options I can incorporate into working with some challenging restrictions and variables. I’ve started looked on your website. Hoping I’ll find distributor in the USA. 🤞🏻
Hi Jill-of- All-Trades, thank you for the feedback. Great to hear you are finding the videos useful.
Really great video. Did you also leave the 5mm gap around the first acoustic plasterboard as well?
I’ve got to say I really enjoyed this video, every think was self explanatory, Nice to see a soundproofing video made in England, so at least I know I can obtain the materials lol. I have a similar problem with hearing my neighbours, not that they’re that noisy. With this system would my neighbours benefit from me installing this installation as well ? as I enjoyed my music and quite like heavy rock amongst other musical tastes.
Hi Martin, thank you for the kind comments. They are much appreciated. Soundproofing does work both ways yes. What soundproofing is really doing, is improving the walls ability to block more sound. That creates a barrier between you, so any sound travelling in either direction will be reduced.
Hi fantastic video.Great amount of detail and very simplistically explained. I am currently sound proofing my garage as I am using it for band practising. Can you advice how I reduce sound trasmitted from my roller doors? I have sealed all the gaps around the tracking system for the doors.many thanks Lawrence from Oz
Hi, thank you for the comment. In most cases we recommend to remove the door and brick up the opening as the shutter door will be a big weak point. If the door needs to stay from an aesthetic point of view, then building another wall internally in front of the shutter door is the next best thing. Either brick / block or building a high performing stud wall. We can help you with the soundproofing design for the room if you want to get in touch with us via the website and provide photos / dimensions of the space.
I would call you as is quite clear you work in very serious/competent manner... unfortunately I live in Milan (Italy) and I have to face proposals much much more expensive and absolutely NOT clear and serious like your... 😩
Great video (and glad the music is reduced in your more recent videos). I'm curious why there are plastic plugs included in your stud fixing kit? I get the plugs would be used when fixing studs to side walls or any concrete floors, etc with the iso strip between surfaces (though 50mm screws seem be a tad short for a 47mm stud), but the ReductoClips themselves are screwed directly into the studs, right? Cheers!
Hi Sapio Tone - Yes, volume reduced more recently, we do listen to feedback! The plugs are provided as part of the kit because the ReductoClips can be installed in various ways on various surfaces (note: its not a stud fixing kit, its just a ReductoClip fixing kit). If you are installing the clips direct to the brick wall instead of on an independent frame (to save space), then you use the plugs to fix into brick work. If you are fixing into timber then you can just ignore the plugs and use the screws on their own. All options covered with the same kit.
I noticed that too. I did catch him say there is a small penetration the diameter of the small screw used to secure the clip to the wall/studs. Looks like they used very few screws, so along with lots of overlapping material the impact of the screws will be minimal and probably only noticed by animals with acute hearing. Not sure human animals fit that classification 🤣🤣🤣
From my experience as a DIY consumer, the goal of sound isolation businesses is to educate consumers on the difference between soundproofing and sound isolation. If you’ve got blueprints for a new house and a bottomless bank account, I’d say you’d have a pretty good chance of getting very close to soundproofing the place. I bet @soundproofingstore could come with an actual number.
I live in a 100-year-old semi-detached (common wall) brick, 2-story + basement home. Fortunately lath and plaster is fantastic for sound isolation. The lack of separation between the flooring on the main floor and the ceiling of a not very tall basement immediately below isn’t so great: Subfloor is 6” wood planks laid diagonally (with lots of gaps) with 2” oak flooring (with narrow gaps) above. It’s made for a challenge bc of mechanical, HVAC and electrical connections between, and thru the joists below. I’m going to incorporate some of the products: They appear pretty effective.
Great informative video, thanks!
It has only strengthened my desire to have this done. One question if I may. With all the recent price hikes, how much would this cost today? My situation is almost identical to this, in size and expected outcome, and I would like a rough estimate on cost.
Thanks again.
Hi fatgreenman, if you would like to email the dimensions of your wall to sales@soundproofingstore.co.uk we can happily supply you with an estimate. Based on the dimensions of the wall in the video, the cost today would be £975.00 this includes all materials, VAT and delivery. (It doesn't include the stud frame or installation).
Thks for your videos and comments ! The best way to improve your system is very easy : just do the same work on the other side of that wall ... on the neighbour's side !!! This would be - no ! - this is the best way not to lose too much volume in the room !!! ! And share the investment with the neighbour . Indeed, as said before, the law should impose sound insulation of houses in the same way as it has long imposed improvements to heating systems . It would also add greatly to the social quality of life between neighbours. Quite a program!!! Cheers !!
This is a really well-presented video. I'm currently looking at different systems, especially comparing effectiveness against space loss. One question though: I want to protect my neighbours from ME playing music, amplified guitar and umm...snoring. Will the system also work where I'm generating the noise, rather than the other way round?
Hi thank you for your comment. There is no higher perfoming system on the market, this is a fantastic system that ticks all the boxes. Soundproofing works both ways, so yes it will reduce your noise from getting out as well as next doors noise getting in. However, when it comes to high decibel amplified noise like an electric guitar, you have to understand that the sound will spread out and hit all the other surfaces like your floor, ceiling and returning walls. The energy of the sound can then spread through the structure to next door. This is why in studios and cinemas we have to soundproof every surface not just one wall. But soundproofing that one wall will certainly make things a lot better than it currently is.
Hi, nice information. Should rockwool Or glasswool touch the wall? Or not?
Hi Andy Don, in an ideal world it shouldn't touch the wall. However, if some of it does touch, then this wouldn't be an issue.
Very helpful video for the amateur DIYer - thanks! 2 questions if you wouldn't mind please. What thickness are the studs/acoustic mineral wool that you have used here? Also, what impact do the ceiling/floor joists have in regards to noise through the wall? I would be concerned about doing all this work and the sound still coming through via those joists (I'm speaking specifically about noise through the party wall rather than above or below)
Hi Chris Metcalfe, great to hear you found it useful. The studs are 50mm and the 60kg acoustic mineral wool is also 50mm.
As every situation is different, it is important to check where the unwanted noise is coming from. In this instance there was no noise coming through the concrete floor, or ceiling and all noise was coming through the party wall. If you are unsure, then do a simple ear test e.g. putting your ear to the floor when you can hear the noise will help determine if the floor or ceiling also need treating. If you need any further help or advice on this, please feel free to call us on 01423 206208.
@@SoundproofingStore are the studs 50mmx50mm? Also for use in bedrooms to combat airborne noise from neighbors, should something be placed on the floor behind the stud to ensure sound doesn't travel to rooms below or is it not required? Thanks
Hi @@ianwarren3340 thank you for your question. Yes it was 50mm x 50mm in this case to limit space loss. No nothing should need to go on the floor behind the wall soundproofing, however if you have a timber joist floor and you can hear the noise from next door comes up from the floor, then insulate between the joists with acoustic mineral wool before installing the wall soundproofing. You want to go along the party wall and around 1.5m into the room.
Are you able to fit this onto walls that have radiators attached ? Or is this solution solely limited to walls which are completely clear of any attachments? Thanks guys !
Hi AshleyB, radiators can be remounted onto the ReductoClip system using extra clips and bars (please see the below blog):
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-install-a-tv-or-radiator-onto-the-reductoclip-systems
very clear explanation your videos are excellent easy to understand also you are good looking
What happens when you have already installed suspended timber ceiling. Would I then need to start breaking into ceiling to ensure the soundproofing extends all the way to old ceiling joists?
Hi Jonathan Mcrae - Not necessarily. If the suspended ceiling has been done to a good level, then the plasterboard layers of the wall only need to go up to the new ceiling. The tricky part is where to fix the frame to. As long as you have a solid fixing point, you can just build your frame up to the new ceiling, fix the frame with good solid fixings into the floor and returning walls either side. If needs be a couple of plasterboard anchor fixings into the new ceiling.
Hi, does the plasterboard need to be plastered or skimmed before being painted? Or is it ready to paint directly onto the acoustic plasterboard?
Hi Raymond Yau, standard plasterboard decorating techniques also apply to the acoustic plasterboard. Our recommendation would be a skim plaster prior to painting.
Maybe I missed you saying this but just so I'm clear, is this only a single sided wall? Meaning just the open frame facing the wall and the board on the side away from the wall. Anything special need to be done if doing multiple sides? In my case it would be 3 sides. I'm in an apartment so how bad would it be if I had it sitting on the carpet? Would it just be smart to create a floor for it to sit on?
Hi Stew Thomas, that's correct, the video shows two alcoves of a single sided party wall. Please feel free to call us with regards to the multiple sides, as it's slightly confusing as to what you mean. If you'd like to contact us on 01423 206208 we can talk this through in more detail with you.
Very interesting video but as I watched it I started wondering if this is not over engineered and drive cost much higher than needed. The use of clip to fix the resilient channel to the frame is generally needed to isolate the wall (plasterboard) from the frame which is fixed to the structure. In this case, a floating independant wall is build using the rubber to fix it to the structure. As such, I would have thought that the clip to fix the resilient channel are adding very little value if any as the resilient channel could be directly fix to the already independant timber frame. It could even be argued that resilient channel are neither needed due to the timber frame being isolated from the structure. Resilient channel are used to isolate the plasterboard from a frame which is fix to the house structure and avoid sound transmission. However the cost of resilient channel is very cheap which is not the case of the clip so adding the resilient might add some extra noise isolation at little cost.
Just some thoughts for DIY as this is a great video but defintely commercial driven as making use of most product sold by this company to improve soundproofing even if the cost versus added value is not justified especially when you have a chimney in the middle of the wall. I recon using the isolated timber frame, mineral wool, and two layer of soundboard plasterboard will achieve similar result taking into consideration the chimney.
Hi Frederic, thank you for your interest and comment. That is something we get asked about occasionally and trust me we have tested it. Although just doing the de-coupled frame and board will certainly give you some improvement, the extra resilience of the ReductoClip system is tested to show a big improvement in results especially for lower frequencies. The correct system should always be tailored to the specific construction and noise problem of the customer, but if there is a lot of structural impact or low bass from music etc, the clips can give a 5 - 7dB improvement compared to just a de-coupled frame with the same layers.
@@SoundproofingStore thank you for taking the time to reply to my comment. I have no doubt that the Reductoclip would help with providing additional noise reduction but it will be at his most efficient if the all wall was isolated. As you have a chimney in the middle, I still do not think it provide value for money and this tends to be confirmed by the final noise test where only 16dB reduction is achieved. Considering the materials used of an additional wall, with the resilient channel with Reductoclip I would have thought that more than 16dB would be achieved so clearly the chimney is the weakness point. In all my research and application of soundproofing it has become clear that it is possible to spend a lot of money isolating one wall but if all potential source of the noise are not treated at the same time (chimney in this case), then similar result can be achieved with less money as the end result is mainly driven by the weakest point. I appreciate that when it comes to soundproofing there will always been hard trade off.
@@fredericguyon1449, absolutely, you are correct that the chimney is a potential weak point. However, from doing a simple ear test we were able to check that by far the majority of noise was coming through the alcoves. We would always recommend doing the best possible solution to achieve the best possible results. It might be that something can be done later with the chimney, although it was decided in this instance that it wasn't necessary. The 19dB reduction achieved is actually a huge difference, (a 10dB reduction equating to a perceived halving of the volume). In real terms a 19dB improvement for customers suffering from noisy neighbour issues can be life changing.
@@SoundproofingStore Hi - just so I can understand your performance measures, you say on the stud wall system a 60db airborne improvement. Given that this is only showing below 20, and your comment about this being a big difference, does the 60db figure relate to some other measure? Ie it doesn’t mean it can reduce sound by up to 60db?
@@joemillson4625 Thank you for your question. The 60dB is not an improvement figure, its a total wall performance figure. As an average single brick wall will already be reducing around 40dB, the system gives a further improvement of around 20dB to raise the total sound reduction to 60dB. To give some context every 10dB reduced is perceived as roughly a halving of volume. So a 20dB improvement is huge. A lot of other systems on the market will improve the wall by more like 5 - 10dB.
Hi, you mentioned that when installing the stud frame 10mm from the back wall that the gap could be more. Is there any benefit from making the the gap 30mm from the back wall?. I have the space to do this. If the gap was larger than 30mm would this be an advantage. Thanks Ian.
Hi Ian, a bigger gap is only ever going to improve the overall performance of the system. However, it's difficult to say by how much.
@@SoundproofingStore Hi, Thanks for your reply... thats good to know!. Cheers Ian.
Great video. What size timber is being used for the stud wall?
We used 50mm timber or 2" x 2" on this project. That is what we generally recommend in most cases to be strong enough to carry the weight of the system while saving as much space as possible. If you have more space you can lose, you can use a thicker frame and put thicker insulation in there. That will give you a small increase in performance.
@@SoundproofingStore great thanks for the reply. Should I start the stud wall off the party wall and soundproofing after screeding?
@@Ninefingers1986 yes screeding first and then the stud frame is built a minimum of 10mm away from the party wall. Please see the below link for further information, including an installation guide (should it be of use):
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
Would there be any benefit from adding (or continuing) the isolation strip to where the timber meets, to further isolate all the frame, or is that too much
Hi George Hitchmough, yes, the isolation strip goes around the whole perimeter of the frame.
@@SoundproofingStore I completely wrote the question wrong sorry. I meant to ask would popping the isolation strip between where each piece of timber meets one another, isolating each piece of timber from one another. Probably overkill/no benefit, but just thought I'd ask :)
@@georgehitchmough1045, no worries, although it's still a bit unclear as to what you are asking? The isolation strip is to isolate the perimeter frame work from the other surfaces, (e.g. walls, floor and ceiling) not each individual piece of timber within the frame itself. Please feel free to call us on 01423 206208 if we can help with anything further.
Hi, I’m hoping to use your company very soon for my living room on the alcoves. I used a very cheap soundproofing before on them and skimmed over. To apply your system will that existing soundproofing and skimming need to be removed or can your solution go straight over it? The reason I ask is will the sound bars stay in place if it’s not directly in the wall? Hope this makes sense, many thanks
Hi Amar Yamin, it really depends on the system you have already got installed as to whether or not it needs to be removed. If you'd like to call us on 01423 206208, we can talk to you in more detail and advise accordingly.
Thank you, I will call you very soon to discuss
is there any benefit to use on the wall Soundboard 4 and Tecsound 50, in what order..or do I always have to use another acoustic plasterboard over the Tecsound? Or Should I put Tecsound on the wall first and than Soundboard 4? Thanks
Hi Zbynek Simcik, the SoundBoard 4 isn't compatible with the ReductoClip System. The SoundBoard 4 is a separate system, a good solution (depending on the noise levels and types of noise) against household airborne noise, but isn't as high performing, or as effective as the ReductoClip Independent System. The video details the order of the materials used in the build up of the ReductoClip Independent System, however - should you have any questions, or need any help or advice, please feel free to call us on 01423 206208.
@@SoundproofingStore thank you very much for your reply.
Hi. What did you cut the furring bars with?
Hi @Ninefingers1986, they are easy to cut and you can simply use a pair of tin snips.
Wouldn't it be better to press the batterns up against fibre Rockwall and do away with the isolation strip, I would of thought this would be a better separater as it is open bounded material as the other is more off a compression material that will still absorb sound over a mass area off material enclosing the structure. Just my opinion
Hi Monkeyman - Thanks for your comment. There are lots of materials that could be used. Isolation strip is good because its much more dense than Rockwool so can support a lot of weight without moving or bottoming out, while still dampening a high level of energy. These walls are having a lot of weight added to them. They also help to seal any gaps around the frame as the surfaces slightly undulate. But you could use felt, neoprene and various other materials in a similar way.
I also have noise coming through a chimney breast. This seems to be blocked up with hardboard. Is there any solution to this?
Hi Denise Wynne, do you know what's behind the hardboard? If it's acting as a sealed chamber, it could potentially be amplifying the noise. Chimneys can also be soundproofed and the below articles might be of interest:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-chimney
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-against-awkward-areas
However, please do feel free to call us on (01423) 206208 and we can speak to you in more detail about this and advise accordingly.
What do you do if the wall needs to be load supporting? Kitchen units etc, how do you go about that? Also what happens with upstairs bedrooms or ground floors with cavities? I can hear my neighbours when they're walking, going through the floorboards on both stories.
Hi @Manchesterlad85, for units, TV's etc the recommendation is to use extra ReductoClips and furring bars. Please take a look at: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-install-a-tv-or-radiator-onto-the-reductoclip-systems
With regards to hearing your neighbours, this is slightly more complicated. It could be that you need to treat the cavities and soundproof the floor or ceiling. Please feel free to call us on (01423) 206208 and we can discuss this with you.
These videos might be of interest:
czcams.com/video/4aPYW2HbF2E/video.html
czcams.com/video/VeeTMJfTfEc/video.html
@@SoundproofingStore thanks for the reply, to clarify I'm in a house, it's to the side that reverberates under the floor as well as walls. Cavity is about 4ft downstairs, Edwardian house. Upstairs I can hear them walking on their floor from next door. It echos & comes up through my floor in the bedrooms. Downstairs I can hear them walking on their dining room/living floor from the walls and floor. I get creaking which comes from the corners of the flooring. I think it's the joist which carry it through, so the wall would definitely work for side on but I'd still hear their steps etc.
@@Manchesterlad85 soundproofing the wall will certainly help, as what you are hearing when they walk is the airborne noise created from their footsteps. This will be especially bad if they have a hard floor finish. Adding acoustic mineral wool to the joists will also help and then it might be that you also need to treat the floor. We would definitely recommend you speak to us if this is something you wish to address.
What's the decibel reduction using this method?
Hi Jonathan Mcrae - Thank you for the question. It's a tricky one to answer as in a real world situation, everybody will get different results. The reduction you achieve is affected by lots of variables including the type of noise you are trying to block, the volume of the sound, the construction of your wall etc. But to give a guide, this system installed in front of a single brick wall, tested using standardized building regulations testing (ISO 717-1) achieves a sound reduction of 70dB (DnT,w) and 65dB (DnT,w+Ctr). The wall before soundproofing will have achieved around 40dB, so this is a 25 - 30dB improvement. Considering we perceive roughly every 10dB reduced as a halving of volume, this is a huge reduction.
Hi mate. May I ask what size timber/studwork you are using and does the timber have to be extra strong? Cheers.
Hi A J, the timber frame used in the above is 50mm standard stud framework.
@@SoundproofingStore thanks mate. Bought some tech sound from you which I am going to install soon but after carrying it up the stair worried it will come down due to the weight Lol. Thanks for your speedy response mate.
@@aj7803 the 50mm timber stud work is more than sufficient to carry the weight if installed correctly. Feel free to call us on 01423 206208 if you have any questions.
@@SoundproofingStore thanks mate. Appreciated
What do you recommend for US of A?
Hi Adam Stevens, unfortunately we don't distribute or ship to the USA. A member of the team has responded to your e-mail enquiry, and we hope this will be of help.
Why is he testing the db level on the other wall of the neighbours place in the after test, and why does the amount of noise sound the same on the after test?
Hi Johnathan Doe, there needs to be a reading taken in the neighbour's property at the same noise level before the soundproofing is installed and after the soundproofing is installed so the improvement can be measured. He's making sure it's the same level of noise which is being played. The reading is then taken in the adjoining room before and after to show the difference the soundproofing has made when the same level of noise is being played.
Before the soundproofing was installed the wall was reducing 47dB (for airborne sound) and after the ReductoClip Independent Wall System had been installed the wall dramatically improved to reducing 66dB (for airborne sound), which is an incredible improvement of 19dB.
The noise you can hear on the 'after' test is highlighted, as we wanted to make it clear on the video that a reading was being taken whilst the noise was being played in the neighbouring property. The 100dB being played in the neighbouring property is also far, far louder than any domestic noise - it is akin to concert or nightclub levels.
Hi I am going to do this next month to my bedroom wall through yourselves, it has a dado rail half way up the wall would I have to remove that or can I just leave that on the existing wall. Also I wil b removing my double plug socket to a different wall what should I fill that double socket hole with please
Hi Neil, its up to you, if you keep the dado rail on then your frame will need to be at least 10mm in front of the dado rail, so it will just take up a little more space. If you take it off then you only need to be 10mm in front of the wall. Depends how much you need the space. In regards to the hole from the socket, if it was a solid wall (not plasterboard), I would fill it with something high in mass like cement.
Great thanks for the advice, what size wood have you used for the stud frame
@@neilsmale6746 You need to use a minimum of 2" x 2" (47mm) timber. This will do a good job and support the weight. If you can afford to lose more space then going up to 75mm or 100mm timber and having more mineral wool in there will slightly improve results.
Hi very noisy of me, did you get round to doing it and if so did it drawn out the noise?
6:40 straight into the wall (floor,ceiling) ...???...so NO plugs inside the hole first ??
Hi mike pike, plugs depend on the type of screw being used. In this video concrete screws are being used for the wall and floor which are designed to thread without the need of plugs. For the ceiling, timber screws are being used as these are going into the timber joists.
How about green glue?
Hi @monialostal3427, the below video discusses Green Glue and its uses in soundproofing. It's not something we would recommend (the video goes into more detail as to why).
There are more effective soundproofing solutions and systems which will give much better results. Such as the ReductoClip System or SoundBoard 4 (for stud walls):
czcams.com/video/DJFhAk5Sg6E/video.html
0:50 impact sounds... funny that it would be CHEAPER to have those neighbours install sound dampening means directly on these impact locations: stairs with dampening thick cloth..light switch rubberized support on the wall (or new generation light switches...)..etc than for this man to spend big bucks on complete sound isolation of HIS house....
@8:10 ok you need to burn it all down asap
@Arslan Qaiser - Hahahaha Arachnophobia by any chance?
@@SoundproofingStore hehe. A little. But mostly just sharing a laugh :)
Thankyou sir for your video btw.
Why the background music? It is not required and is totally distracting in a video of this type. I would normally have stopped watching a video like this, but peristed as I needed the information provided. Please dont do it.
Annoying music on everything is the latest craze.
@@fly9wheel Didn't you notice that since that wall is insulated, the usual noisy background music has quite diminished to a more comfortable level ! 😎😁😎. I hate noise . A reason I don't go to a movy theatre anymore ! The level of the music is increased willingly in ordre to cover the noise of people eating sweets, popcorns , etc etc..... Grrrrr ! People are afraid of silence as Nature abhors emptiness; they prefer noise that prevents them from thinking!!! Sad !!!!
there should be an airgap. this will not sound proof as good.
Hi @fx1883 There is an air gap. The stud frame is built 10mm away from the existing wall so that it's fully de-coupled, and then you have a further 75mm before the first palsterboard layer. So thats 85mm of air bewteen the wall and the plasterboard.