Setting Up the NEW Maschio Flail Mower Didn’t Go According to Plan
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
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I am using a maschio Brava 160
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If you are interested in a maschio mower or any of the other implements I have demonstrated,
Check out this video where I cut down the PTO shaft
• How to Cut Down a PTO ...
If you want to see a big brush cutting job with my little tractor check out this 49 acre job
I Brush Hogged 49 Acres with a Compact Tractor - Here's What I Learned
• I Brush Hogged 49 Acre...
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I am using a maschio Brava 160
Use code: Rockhill5 to get 5% off your order at www.agfolks.com
If you are interested in a maschio mower or any of the other implements I have demonstrated,
If you want to see a big brush cutting job with my little tractor check out this 49 acre job
I Brush Hogged 49 Acres with a Compact Tractor - Here's What I Learned
czcams.com/video/nsowxQsl1oo/video.html
Another thing that you should maybe look into is asking Tim from tractor time with Tim. He actually runs a mower that you have I believe. If he does maybe he can give you some good suggestions for what to do.
Yes you need to cut it off a bit. You could do some real damage like that. Some expensive damage.
Brock…. You absolutely need to cut the drive line length off!!! If not it will destroy your PTO shaft seals and possible more inside the rear end of the tractor. I know it’s not cool to all the young guns in today’s world. But I always totally remove all the protective PTO drive line cover and throw them away so I can service everything easily and confirm that the driveline is not bottoming out against the tractor or implement! I really like the flail mower an look forward to seeing you in action with it soon. 👍👍
Howdy Brock! Well... I got nothin'. I have zero experience using a rear implement that uses a PTO. So I guess I'm making this comment just so I can hear myself talk lol. I'm learning so thank you for sharing! 🤠
Considering I busted the pto out of my first compact tractor I’d say cut it because I know the damage it can do. I had alway used full size tractors and never knew there was such thing as cutting a shaft but I learned the hard way. I’d say cut 2 inches to start and that really should be plenty. Even if you get a bigger tractor you should still be good with cutting only 2inches
I would make sure that I have the ability to install the shaft when the implement is at its closest point to the tractor. That ensures that you can't bottom out the shaft at its shortest working location.
Cutting down the shaft in small increments is the safest approach. The good news is that even if you cut the shaft too short, a new shaft isn't overwhelmingly expensive (in relative tractor terms - all tractor stuff is overpriced IMHO...).
Take care and God Bless.
I would avoid the quick hitch, due to the weight concern. The additional distance, only makes the mower heavier. I think I would cut the shaft, but ensure the shaft is adequately engaged when fully offset. If I had to choose, I would ensure it is adequately engaged when fully offset. I think the offset is a big benefit, so I would try not to lose that feature.
I put the quick hitch back and see if that give pto shaft some clearing .
I wouldn't assume what the plastic guard is showing you. Remove the plastic guard from the PTO and reinstall the shaft so you can see what you're actually working with. Plus you'll have to remove the same amount from the guard tubes that you remove from each shaft. A PTO shaft is one of the few times in life where 1+1=1 (1 inch from the inner shaft plus 1 inch from the outer shaft only shortens the PTO by 1 inch ... I think it's called common core math?) Keep in mind if you are planning on running the mower on your quick hitch you'll need all the length you can get to off-set the mower. I would love the off-set feature for getting close to fences on over grown pasture edges and pond banks and closer to trees, doing what you are doing you never know what job it will come in handy.
This is the way.
I've always had to cut my Pto shafts to fit the tractor an implement was setup on. They usually aren't one size fits all. With the one you have I'd cut 1 to 2" off for sure to avoid any binding with using on contoured properties. PTO shafts are much cheaper than a new rear PTO gear box.
Quick hitch adds around 6" which probably accounts for the good luck you've had in previous experiences. Using quick hitch adapters/bushings reminds me which implements are set up for QH vs direct connect.
Exactly, my iMatch stays on all the time.
I have a John Deere 2305 cat. 1 and I've made all of my attachments quick hitch compatible. I fabricated the brackets needed and bought the adapters.
It's always something, isn't it, Brock? I like to hook to something and get straight to work.
I would definitely cut it down. Tim made that mistake with one of his and caused a few grand in damage if I remember right. He got lucky that they warrantied it.
They make a pto extender. It basically adds about 4-5” to the shaft. I know this because I cut the shaft on the tiller for my 2520 before I bought the quick hitch . What a relief that was.
Good morning Brock, cut it down approx 1 inch on both sides see how that does. If you need to cut more do it in small increments.
I think you're PTO drive shaft is okay because as the implement drops down you're going past 180° so it actually moves farther away from the tractor PTO mounting point
Any new piece of machinery it is important to check the pto shaft length or it can do a fair bit of damage to the tractor or the implement. I have nearly always had to adjust the pto shaft on new gear. Better to cut it, only takes one mistake to do damage
I did cut it down in another video and got that property mowed
Thanks for watching
The easiest way to check the required shaft length is to hook it up the mower shaft then with it midway lifted, remove the shaft on the mower end measure the distance you have with the shaft all the way compacted. Idealy you want about 6 plus inches. Anything less could bind up when its lifted. Then you need to cut both the inner and outer shafts.
Even after taking 2” off you will have plenty of length for offset and for running on a larger tractor.
Just wanted to comment a thank you! My Dad and I were trying to attach his new Maschio Giraffa XL to his John Deere 6120 and we spent way too long trying to figure out why the quick hitch wasn’t compatible. And then watched your video and got it attached and going the old fashion way, after taking that damn quick hitch off. Keep up the videos, my Dad grew up a farmer and then went into the corporate world for 35 years so now in his retirement he is getting back to farming. You were a huge help, thank you!! We are in Eagle, Michigan
Thanks for the comment and good luck on this journey. It can be enjoyable to get out and work on your own property especially if you spend a long time not doing that.
Didn't look/don't think it'll ever work with the Q.H. from what I can see on video. BUT if it's possible, even having to adjust the hight of the top hook or whatever, I'd do that for now. Especially seeing that you're hinting at a larger tractor down the road. Little aggravation of moving a top hook on the QH when you need to use it sure beats a new PTO shaft if it's to short after you cut it. Mark the plastic covers at their furthest and at the closest place and remove them. Then the same with the shafts and cut as little as possible off both to hopefully keep the length right for whatever new tractor you get too.
My opinion here, if you are going to run that mower without adapting it to work with your QH, you need to cut the PTO shaft down. If you run it directly behind you and go across (thru) a ditch or com down of a steep bank, the rear of the mower will lift up and shove the PTO shaft into the rear of the tractor (TTWT did this on his trailer ramp and it was not good, fortunately for the rest of us, it got the message across to make sure the PTO shaft is never too long). How much to cut, lots of ways to measure this (not an expert here at all), the way I would do it is take the PTO shaft a part, leave the end on the mower in place and put the tractor side to the side (just put it out of the way somewhere). Set the mower on the ground like you are using it with the mower's gearbox centered behind the tractor (this should put the gearbox as close to the PTO output shaft on the tractor as possible on flat ground). Now hold up the end of the PTO shaft like it is going to the output shaft on the tractor and measure the distance from the whatever is the easiest to measure, the end of the output shaft to the end of the half of the PTO shaft you have on the mower, or to the end of the half of the PTO shaft where it's rear universal joint is. Then use your TL to lift the rear of the mower up off the ground, as high as you think it might go on a hill, at the bottom of your trailer ramp or thru a ditch. Then measure from the same place on the tractor to the same place on the PTO shaft you did previously. Whatever the difference is between those two measurements is the amount you need to cut off of both halves of the PTO shaft and its guard (at a minimum, if the shaft was already bottomed out when flat, you may want to cut both side an additional inch shorter than your difference between the measurements). You may also want to look at having your hydraulic top link as short as possible, and the floating link connected and be sure that raising the rear of the mower is limited by the floating link.
All that said, I would really look to see if any of your other PTO shafts from other attachments are shorter, if one of them is, I would just run that shorter shaft and check to see how much clearance you have with it. Flail mowers basically protect themselves since the hammers can swing back out of the way if they hit something so unlike tillers, snowblowers or stump grinders (just to name a few), you don't need a slip clutch on the PTO shaft or even a shear bolt (though the shear bolt is good insurance). So you should be able to run any PTO shaft you already have if it is shorter (within reason, I assume you don't have a PTO shaft that is 18" shorter....). This would leave this PTO shaft for when you get a larger tractor or if you decide to adapt this mower to your QH somehow.
I would also remove the "user manual" that is zip tied to the PTO shaft......LOL Anyways, look forward to your comparison between the other two brush-cutters and this flail mower, I think you will like this FM quite a bit. Have a good one!!
That's why you have that PTO Shaft Manual. Read the Manual
Quick hitches can be very handy, but this attachment can make the case for a Pat's easy change system. With a hydraulic top link and the Pat's you get close to the same covience and great flexibility on more attachments.
I believe you should cut the shaft down. I failed to do that and bent the pto shaft on my tractor. Had to disassemble the back part ot the tractor to replace the pto shaft. Big job. Learned my lesson.
i would suggest that you talk to Tony about the PTO ........ he knows his stuff
When I bought the Maschio ditch bank mower, I had to shorten the PTO shaft by about 11”.
Nice choice! Maschio makes a nice mower!
Thanks
I do not have experience with one of these mowers, but everything I have bought pto driven has needed the shaft to be shortened. New driveline’s are typically quite universal. I also know of someone that pushed the impeller out of a new snowblower by not properly sizing the pto shaft after purchase. I am sure that Maschio lists guideline’s in the owners manual for proper clearances.
With all the various tractors out there, primarily since this flail can be used on Cat-1 and Cat-2 machines, they provided a drive shaft that would work in either case. Most likely for your instance, you will need to shorten the drive shaft. If you need a longer one in the future for a larger tractor, one can always be purchased.
Thanks so much for making this video and the time you took explaining things.
Because of other videos related to this specific equipment, I am going to dig into it deeper for my situation in North Mississippi.
I am looking at the Terminator 200S specifically for my LS XU6158 tractor.
Hey brother. I don't know how utube works. But, now I'm leaving another comment. I knew when I watched the first video,however it came across in. You are blessed, confirmed after your tattoo on your right forearm. Quite Awesome!
I was thinking that shaft looked pretty long before you hooked it up. Either remove an inch from each piece or find a way to use the quick hitch.
Awesome video! That looks like a very well built mower. I run a Woodmaxx FM78 behind my 2038R. Great cut quality from these flails and it will truly amaze you how well these little tractors run such big mowers!
Try disconnecting the pto shaft with the links hooked up , if you have enough room to disconnect the pto , your fine . Cutting the pto may screw you if you get a bigger tractor
On completely flat ground you're probably fine weight wise.
Get on hills and that mower will throw the balance of the machine off from front to rear and becomes dangerous and can push you down the hill.
Even at 800 ish pounds on the rear (- think MX5 rotary mower), you'd need nearly $1K in suitcase weights up front in addition to your loader to balance the load appropriately and not create a dangerous situation.
My tractor is a lot heavier than most of this model.
I’ve got the three sets of wheel weights and fluid in the front and rear tires, plus a cab, plus the Backhoe subframe, and I keep the loader on it with an oversized bucket when brush cutting
I just mowed 10 acres with it which was very hilly going across the hill and up and down. Handled it fine.
I wasn’t terribly worried about the weight because my stump grinder weighs 950 pounds and I carry it around a lot. The stump grinder also has a lot of that weight extended 6 foot behind the tractor, whereas with the flail mower it’s tucked up closer.
The negative to all that weight is that when going uphill it takes a lot of horsepower just to move the machine so I have to mow really slow or it bogs down
@@RockhillfarmYT Good Deal Brock. I just want you to be safe as possible. I know you have more weight than most folks with our 2038r. They do a much cleaner job cutting for sure.
I've got about 25 ish mowable acres (rest of the 80 AC is wooded) that I've hit with the rotary mower at least once a year which wouldn't be a great choice for a flail if I let it get tall 4 ish feet of thick native grasses with some blackberries mixed in. Thanks to some rental equipment I now have some johnson grass popping up I need to stay on top of and I'll spot spray next year before it seeds out. That stuff and some other weeds gets about 8-9 ft tall It's bad when you're on a 4 series and it's still more than 1foot over the ROPS and seeds shattering everywhere. Not fun in July on an open station machine.
Now that I have my own tractor I'll keep it a bit more groomed until about Late June then let it grow up a bit to choke out the sand burrs or I'll have a heck of a mess.
hay Brook, great video!! can you take the pto shaft off without unhooking anything? you want about one inch clearance (between end of shaft and the pto on tractor} when shaft is collapsed all the way if you have that, or close you are good to go
My suggestion is to get in contact with the manufacturer, and ask them about your issue with the PTO shaft. See what they have to say about it.
I would not expect them to have better information than I can get from looking at it.
They thought that the other mower would fit my tractor
Just a thought Brock, what about buying a new shorter PTO connector. I hate to see you cut a new one (and spending the time to cut it all down), then need to buy a longer one later when you get that John Deere sponsorship where they give you a new series 5 tractor. You might need the longer PTO shaft then!! - - Just a thought!! Cheers! - -J.Andre.
I’d cut it just to be safe.
I think if you would have raised your top hook on QH it might of hooked up okay
So the flail mower replaces the rotary brush mower I assume ,?
I'm anxious to see what your comparison is on cut quality and anything you can or can't do over a rotary cutter . ( I'm considering replacing my old WOODS brush hog , so I'm watching with interest .
THANKS
pc
Yes, it should be a much better cut than a rotary brush cutter, and not hang out so far behind the tractor.
They are generally more expensive, but most of them give you the ability to offset it to the side of the tractor
I’m getting ready to mow that good size property so I should have more opinions on it next week
Could you link to the product you’re using to hold the Curtis Advantage Cab doors?
I don’t think they sell them.
I emailed the company and asked for some of the pins and then I welded those pins on to some square plates.
I recommended to them that they start selling those as door hangers for your wall but I never heard back.
Are your two extra spool valves have a float feature…?
One of the 2 does
I had to cut 8 inches off one time so it would hook up to my tractor and bush hog
Yeah it does need to be cut
Absolutely cut it down. Do not run it that way. You need to cut both halves of the shaft. If you make it quick hitch compatible then you can get a longer shaft.
That mower won't work it's the wrong color
Right
Thanks for watching
Dont cut it. If they wanted it shorter they would have made it shorter
Cutting down a PTO shaft is a common practice. A manufacturer cannot set the shaft length up to work with every different tractor in every configuration.
@@RockhillfarmYT Brock I have the Maschio GIRAFFA S 120 offset frail mower. It had parts missing on delivery so Maschio sent all parts out with a engineer who set it all up for me. He also cut off about 12" of the PTO. I was very pleased to have that guy out and free of charge. Even if I had the inconvenience of waiting a week or so for it to be on the back of my 1026R here in Poland. As for a series 1 handling such a unit its at the very limit for the 3 point. Might have to tweek the hydraulic pressure in the future to get smooth lifting. I have a bunch of trees to cut around with pond banks and its fantastic. You might want coverage and a wide unit, I need the versatile of the offset. You should try one if you can get sponsors to let you try one out. But it does wear your neck out looking over your shoulder. Great show.
Thanks
I appreciate the feedback
I have the same mower on my 2038r with pats easy hitch no problem with the shaft