Some workshops fuck up the car even more. Installations not even done right and poor diagnostics. The concern is huge! Its great to have specialists, and better be spending time to find the right place
Thanks for watching. Yes, I do not like to shoot parts at it, the costumer already had spent a thousand euros to get it to this point.. on a toe truck.
Love you videos!Realy helped me diagnose so many problems on my 159 1.9. But now i found myself with another one and i simply don't know where to start. I recently rebuild all my injectors(bad idle,smoke,weird stutter at constant speeds, big injector correction) and all went well for two weeks or so.I have to mention that the guys at injector service and also my mechanic told me that this type of injectors do not need re-coding (they gave me the codes but i didn't write them in the ecu). Now after two perfect weeks the car started to stutter again in 3rd at 2500 rpm, and then suddenly stopped at a crossroad after braking and taking it off gear.It started right away but i dont know what to watch for now.The injector 1 and 3 correction are still high -2,5 and 3 (it has a new intake, new fuel regulators,dpf active and healthy,and no errors).The car works fine but from time to time it feels like something isn't right with the fuel suply The engine goes smoothly,steady iddle,no smoke.I just cant stop asking myself if the injector recoding is a must.Or maybe the high pressure pump is failing on me. Still ,the pressure reads are ok,and no errors.i remember when i've changed the rail regulator i did have a pressure error,now nothing. Sorry for the long post,i wanted to give as many details as i can maybe you can direct me in what to look for next.Than you in advance!Any help will be apreciated.
Hello. Check out the connector on the 3rd injector. If it has a brown dust, the problem is there. Normally I resolve that with WD 40 and a zip tie around the injector to stop the connector from vibrating
@@alfaromeonoproblem Ok! Thanks! I will check it. Do you think i should write the new codes in or i should let it be? I'm afraid not to mess something up
Can I offer some advice if you don’t mind? You should never thread lock a Helicoil. The reason is because you are not allowing that coil to move outward during the tightening process which gives the mechanical advantage it was designed to have. If installed correctly they don’t come out during the bolt removal because thy can’t.
i really have to say, we need email contact :-) such great videos, that save so many people their troubles with their alfas ... your community is growing 🙂 i bought another 156 1.9 16V Facelift model 2004 with just 105.000km, where i am changing injectors and timing belt by your video advices. I am just curious ... how can it be finding some oil inside the cooling liquide? First, it was G11 filled, not G12 or G12+ , second liquide was not brown like emuslified oil-water mix, third ... it´s unusual just 105.000km and expecting a faulty cylinderheadgasket. Are there other possibilities getting clean oil into cooling system?
Hello. Check out the description below. Those engines do not have a water to oil heat exchanger. So the oil must come from. The engine itself. Use paraflu UP only
@@alfaromeonoproblem that means ... possibility 1) from previous owner bad work changing timing belt/waterpump and oil got into the system once 2) cylinderhead crack 3) cylinderhead gasket faulty 4) engineblock crack i am just wondering why the oil isn´t emulsified with the coolant
@dannydkasel8296 that is very odd on those engines. I gave never encountered that on those. Are you sure it's not a reaction with different coolants? You cannot mix them
@@alfaromeonoproblem i didn´t mixed wrong fluids, i got this car with disassembled engine, no injectors mounted. I saw immidiatly the wrong, blue coolantfluid and flushed it out. Meanwhile i am sure it´s a faulty AGR Cooler. Why? The expansiontank of coolant has black russ from exhaust inside and what i thought to be oil is in fact diesel. And now everything makes sense, thanks to your videos. Yes, it´s unlikely having a faulty AGR Cooler BUT this shouldn´t stop everybody to check it. As the pre-owner said: injector were faulty, dripped permantly to much diesel into the engine, as consequence unburned diesel got through the exhaust. Having a faulty AGR Cooler, the Exhaust-Gases getting into the cooling system and the expansiontank gets really black. So, i will mount renewed injectors, block the AGR Valve, disassembly the AGR Cooler, bridge that two AGR Cooling lines, flush the system with lots of water, install new thermostat and then we will see, how robust and healthy this awesome engine is :-)
Wow the first thing i thought when i heared it crank it sounds like a petrol car...low compression was my 1th idea as well! Normally those engines are very good. So i am wondering what is wrong with it.
Hi i have one question, do you know to tell me where is pcv valve located on alfa 147 1.6ts? Thank you in advance! I hope you see my comment i need help finding it, cant find it ..🙏
Call me crazy...but i love the sound of JTDs engine...i own an 156 M.Y. 2002 JTD 115 CV and an 159 M.Y. 2008 1.9 JTDm 16V. Yeah, they are pretty loud engines, but to some extent they sound pretty nice, especially compared to old Volkswagen PDE engines.
I love your videos man! I literally fixed so many problems on an Alfa GT 1.9 JTD I am having a problem with a 2006 1.9 jtd alfa gt In the morning the car takes very long to start, sometimes i can crank for like 7-8 seconds then turn the key off and do this like 3 times then the car starts I have a new battery which is 70ah and 590CCA, is this sufficient to start the car? The scan tool reads from +/-170rpm it jumps to 220 sometimes and it eventually starts
Hello. Thanks for watching! The battery should have at least 700cca. The varta e44 Will do well. But if the starter is slow, you have to replace it too
So I tried to start the car 2 days ago and it refused to start When I connected the scan tool I was getting a maximum of 100bar on the rail so I'm suspecting it is the fuel pressure regulator Is there any way I can test the regulator? Thanks
@ramiromaney3499 hello. My advice is to take out the hi pressure fuel pump and have it to be tested all together. Age tells me that the pump suffers more that the regulator
you are lucky, this JTD cranks ... my JTD project does just one "clack" and the whole electrical system shuts down, only if disconnecting mass-pol and put it back, gives you a second try. Engine unit (ECU) checked by professional company -> absolutly fine. All mass-points cleaned, startermotor changed ... Faultycodes -> air-massflow-meter 4 faults, glow-unit 1 fault ... so nothing why not crank, nothing why breaking electrical system to shut down.
Some workshops fuck up the car even more. Installations not even done right and poor diagnostics. The concern is huge! Its great to have specialists, and better be spending time to find the right place
Good analysis. Thank you. No chucking parts at it !
Thanks for watching. Yes, I do not like to shoot parts at it, the costumer already had spent a thousand euros to get it to this point.. on a toe truck.
I love your videos I almost watched all the repair and diagnostic videos on the JTD engines, keep it up
Hello, thanks for watching! Many more to come
Love you videos!Realy helped me diagnose so many problems on my 159 1.9.
But now i found myself with another one and i simply don't know where to start.
I recently rebuild all my injectors(bad idle,smoke,weird stutter at constant speeds,
big injector correction) and all went well for two weeks or so.I have to mention
that the guys at injector service and also my mechanic told me that this type of
injectors do not need re-coding (they gave me the codes but i didn't write them in the ecu).
Now after two perfect weeks the car started to stutter again in 3rd at 2500 rpm,
and then suddenly stopped at a crossroad after braking and taking it off gear.It started right away but i dont know what to
watch for now.The injector 1 and 3 correction are still high -2,5 and 3 (it has a new intake,
new fuel regulators,dpf active and healthy,and no errors).The car works fine but from time to time
it feels like something isn't right with the fuel suply
The engine goes smoothly,steady iddle,no smoke.I just cant stop asking myself if the injector
recoding is a must.Or maybe the high pressure pump is failing on me.
Still ,the pressure reads are ok,and no errors.i remember when i've changed the rail regulator i did have a pressure error,now nothing.
Sorry for the long post,i wanted to give as many details as i can maybe you can direct me
in what to look for next.Than you in advance!Any help will be apreciated.
Hello. Check out the connector on the 3rd injector. If it has a brown dust, the problem is there. Normally I resolve that with WD 40 and a zip tie around the injector to stop the connector from vibrating
@@alfaromeonoproblem Ok! Thanks! I will check it. Do you think i should write the new codes in or i should let it be? I'm afraid not to mess something up
@eucastana should write them in, yes
@@alfaromeonoproblem Ok ,will do.Thank you for your time!
Thank you! Very educational video!
Thanks for watching
Excellent video
It’s not a tractor 🚜 Alfaromeo they should have never have made a diesel engine 😅
Yes, but if they only have made petrol ones, they would not sell much cars. Unfortunately.
Good job Nice done
Thanks for watching
great video!
Thanks for watching
Can I offer some advice if you don’t mind? You should never thread lock a Helicoil. The reason is because you are not allowing that coil to move outward during the tightening process which gives the mechanical advantage it was designed to have. If installed correctly they don’t come out during the bolt removal because thy can’t.
Nice, thanks for your advice
i really have to say, we need email contact :-) such great videos, that save so many people their troubles with their alfas ... your community is growing 🙂
i bought another 156 1.9 16V Facelift model 2004 with just 105.000km, where i am changing injectors and timing belt by your video advices. I am just curious ... how can it be finding some oil inside the cooling liquide? First, it was G11 filled, not G12 or G12+ , second liquide was not brown like emuslified oil-water mix, third ... it´s unusual just 105.000km and expecting a faulty cylinderheadgasket. Are there other possibilities getting clean oil into cooling system?
Hello. Check out the description below.
Those engines do not have a water to oil heat exchanger. So the oil must come from. The engine itself.
Use paraflu UP only
@@alfaromeonoproblem that means ... possibility
1) from previous owner bad work changing timing belt/waterpump and oil got into the system once
2) cylinderhead crack
3) cylinderhead gasket faulty
4) engineblock crack
i am just wondering why the oil isn´t emulsified with the coolant
@dannydkasel8296 that is very odd on those engines. I gave never encountered that on those. Are you sure it's not a reaction with different coolants?
You cannot mix them
@@alfaromeonoproblem i didn´t mixed wrong fluids, i got this car with disassembled engine, no injectors mounted. I saw immidiatly the wrong, blue coolantfluid and flushed it out. Meanwhile i am sure it´s a faulty AGR Cooler. Why? The expansiontank of coolant has black russ from exhaust inside and what i thought to be oil is in fact diesel. And now everything makes sense, thanks to your videos. Yes, it´s unlikely having a faulty AGR Cooler BUT this shouldn´t stop everybody to check it. As the pre-owner said: injector were faulty, dripped permantly to much diesel into the engine, as consequence unburned diesel got through the exhaust. Having a faulty AGR Cooler, the Exhaust-Gases getting into the cooling system and the expansiontank gets really black. So, i will mount renewed injectors, block the AGR Valve, disassembly the AGR Cooler, bridge that two AGR Cooling lines, flush the system with lots of water, install new thermostat and then we will see, how robust and healthy this awesome engine is :-)
@dannydkasel8296 g11, g12 and g13 are not compatible.
About the EGR cooler, so far I have never seen that on the engines
Wow the first thing i thought when i heared it crank it sounds like a petrol car...low compression was my 1th idea as well! Normally those engines are very good. So i am wondering what is wrong with it.
Hi i have one question, do you know to tell me where is pcv valve located on alfa 147 1.6ts? Thank you in advance! I hope you see my comment i need help finding it, cant find it ..🙏
Hello. On the intake manifold were the breather hose goes. Right before the throttle body
Call me crazy...but i love the sound of JTDs engine...i own an 156 M.Y. 2002 JTD 115 CV and an 159 M.Y. 2008 1.9 JTDm 16V.
Yeah, they are pretty loud engines, but to some extent they sound pretty nice, especially compared to old Volkswagen PDE engines.
I like them too. The 16v and specially the 20v ones
Amazing job.
10:24 Why locktight should not be used on that bolt?
I was wondering that too, maybe it's impossible to get it off after haha
Hello. Because the bolt as to give way being part of the self fuse system of the sprocket. In case of a broken timing belt.
Hello. Because the bolt as to give way being part of the self fuse system of the sprocket. In case of a broken timing belt.
@@alfaromeonoproblem Thanks.
I love your videos man! I literally fixed so many problems on an Alfa GT 1.9 JTD
I am having a problem with a 2006 1.9 jtd alfa gt
In the morning the car takes very long to start, sometimes i can crank for like 7-8 seconds then turn the key off and do this like 3 times then the car starts
I have a new battery which is 70ah and 590CCA, is this sufficient to start the car?
The scan tool reads from +/-170rpm it jumps to 220 sometimes and it eventually starts
Hello. Thanks for watching! The battery should have at least 700cca. The varta e44 Will do well.
But if the starter is slow, you have to replace it too
@@alfaromeonoproblem awesome thank you so much for the reply, I will try that battery first
So I tried to start the car 2 days ago and it refused to start
When I connected the scan tool I was getting a maximum of 100bar on the rail so I'm suspecting it is the fuel pressure regulator
Is there any way I can test the regulator?
Thanks
@ramiromaney3499 hello. My advice is to take out the hi pressure fuel pump and have it to be tested all together. Age tells me that the pump suffers more that the regulator
@@alfaromeonoproblem awesome will give that a shot and update here so others can probably learn from my experience aswell
you are lucky, this JTD cranks ... my JTD project does just one "clack" and the whole electrical system shuts down, only if disconnecting mass-pol and put it back, gives you a second try. Engine unit (ECU) checked by professional company -> absolutly fine. All mass-points cleaned, startermotor changed ... Faultycodes -> air-massflow-meter 4 faults, glow-unit 1 fault ... so nothing why not crank, nothing why breaking electrical system to shut down.
Hello. Check this out: czcams.com/video/S0SFTl21EQ4/video.htmlsi=EMRwFeY86WdPZu41
Where do you learn all of this?
Hello. Mostly by myself, over the year and all the headaches