Sorry for my possibly damn question. I have 2 5kw Deye inverters that I want to use at home. Can I possibly have the normal load put on the load side and then the rest (geyser, oven/stove and aircons) on the smart load. What happens if, at any time, the total load (smart plus normal) exceeds the inverter capacity which in this case will be 10kw? Are you also able to share a wiring diagram for the smart load side of the connection?
@@stanslaszulu the Smart Load is only useable for "excess solar" It only switches on when your battery is almost full an PV is high (according to your settings) You should put everything on Load, eccept things like stoves (geyser) which can still be power by solar & battery, but not during a power failure. (CT must be placed correctly) Watch my other videos on Smart load and auto change over switch useage.
@@bolandsystems9707 thanks for the response and I will watch more of your vids on smart load. I am in a smaller house and my normal/consistent load is about 500watts which is 2 fridges, TVs, lights, internet routers, a laptop or 2 plus some speakers. I am using one 5kw inverter. The most load it has handled is 4kw when I had a heading element and microwave on but this was for a short time. I am moving to a bigger house where the consistent load will increase to maybe 1200 when I add more lighting plus cameras, gats motor and water pump. I will install two 5kw inverters in the bigger place. Plus I have panels with max wattage of 11kw plus total storage of 20kwh. I know I will have a lot of excess power so I am trying to figure out how I can optimise the use of the excess capacity to power the rest of the heavy appliances like geysers, aircons and possibly stove/oven using the smart load.
@stanslaszulu with that setup, I would: Put everything on Load, except the older type of stove (can still be driven by solar & batteries if set to: Zero export to CT.) Then follow my setup for your geyser to be powered by - Smart Load [when ever there is excess PV & batteries almost full] - Grid [when it's cloudy] - a heat pump is expensive but works lovely on an inverter We use an airfrier (oven type), induction stove & microwave and have no more need for a stove Make sure your aircon are the inverter type. They are great with power usage and soft start. In winter you might struggle to get 20kWh batteries loaded to full with 11kW panels. Rainy days your PV can drop to 10% production or even less. Adding panels will not be a sound investment though (pay 100% for 10% - 50% production for a few cloudy days only)
Hard to say. I do not know your setup. Ideally: a 2nd 200l geyser connected to the Smart Load output (electrician) replacing the 4kW element with a 2kW (plumber). Add an auto change-over switch & smart wifi timer. Optional: add relay powered by main geyser's element to switch between 2 geysers. Electricals +-$300 (R6000) 2nd geyser +-$600 (R12000) You should not need to use grid power ever again, other than cloudy rainy days. Temp is much more controlable than solar geysers which tend to overheat
You can set the SOC% for ON & OFF at any %. I choose 90% On, because I want some reserve charging left over for the battery. Once my Volta reaches 100%, any load > PV will let the SOC drop with only a trickle charge feeding it (will not charge to 100% again before it drops below 90%)
@@bolandsystems9707 you can't do less than 100% on my deye. The inverter does not allow you to change this setting. That's why SMART doesn't start for me. And in general, everyone praises Deye, but I don't like it, there is a lot in it, but it doesn't work, or it doesn't work normally.
@@dieselodesaMy Deye 5KW inverter is the same. The ON battery SOC % cannot be changed. I ran into the following issue (but there is a workaround): My standard backup load is around 500W and my geyser is 2000W. I figured the logical "Power" setting under SmartLoad should be 2500W, which can run backup load and smartload without needing the battery to help. On heavy cloudy days, I only reached 2500W solar out much later in the day. By then, the battery managed to recharge back to 100% with less than 2500W available solar power. The BMS on my Volta Stage 1 batteries ( 2 of them in parallel) does not keep the battery at 100% SOC. Not long after reaching 100% SOC, they will drop down to 99.9% SOC. And now for the issue: When solar output did reach 2500W, my batteries were 99.9% SOC and SmartLoad would not turn on as the batteries are not 100% SOC. The workaround was to change the "Power" value to a lower value (1500W). Now, when the batteries do reach 100% SOC, SmartLoad turns on because the "Power" value is met. The drawback is that the battery will need to supplement power if there is less than 2500W. If there is for example 2000W solar power available, the inverter draws 2000W from the panels and 500W from the battery. This is not a problem in general as the battery will only drop to the OFF SOC % setting in a worst case scenario. In most cases, I do draw a bit of battery power until solar output reaches 2500W. I hope this helps.
Depending on your firmware, when you choose Smart Load, the the % appears under Micro Inverter. Change the % settings there. (When you tick Micro inverter, you will see the % changes, thus those blocks are used for both SL & MI... confusing, I know)
Hi. Regarding your setup that allows a 2nd geyser to be heated if the 1st one is already hot: What is the name of the "relay" that you refer to in your video? czcams.com/video/fIXeK_-b12c/video.html I am currently running my geyser on SmartLoad. No issues there. On a sunny day, my batteries are fully charged and my geyser is hot before midday. The rest of the day, my panel power is mostly wasted. I was considering powering an additional geyser using your "relay" setup. Perhaps you have more information on how it works or could supply the part name or a link that explains how to set it up. Thank you in advance.
Hi Niel. The relay is a common DIN rail 20A relay powered by 220Vac. Most electrical suppliers should have one. (CHNT model NCH8-20/11) My Smart load goes to both, but the 2nd geyser's power 1st goes through the relay's N/C. That means, when the Smart Load power switches the 1st geyser on, it also powers the relay to open the N/C contact to the 2nd geyser. When the 1st geyser's thermostat switches off, the power to the element is cut. The relay is therfor wired onto the element of the 1st geyser. I also added DIN rail LEDs to indicate which one is on. 1 - connected to feed from element to relay 2 - connected to feed to 2nd geyser's tripswitch (better to connect to it's element input) You should strongly consider a 200l geyser & 2kW element (with screw connectors on element) as your spare geyser BEFORE your main geyser's input. Water flows through 2nd geyser to 1st (main) geyser The main geyser's temp is regulated (50°C) and the spare geyser is dependant on excess solar, set to 70°C (fluctuating) So add a wifi timer to your main geyser, preferably via an auto change-over (SL or timer input to power geyser 1) If it rains, the timer will switch on & heat the main geyser. 90% of the time your SL will heat both. Let me know if you need a sketch.
Sorry for stupid question, is it possible to use Load and Gen outputs simultaneously? (Can not understand English fully)
@@NikitaGarets yes, it is 2 different outputs.
You can not use Smart Load output and Generator input together.
It is the same connection
@@NikitaGarets yes, the Smart Load output is just a Load output with parameter settings (%PV & Battery SOC)
Sorry for my possibly damn question. I have 2 5kw Deye inverters that I want to use at home. Can I possibly have the normal load put on the load side and then the rest (geyser, oven/stove and aircons) on the smart load. What happens if, at any time, the total load (smart plus normal) exceeds the inverter capacity which in this case will be 10kw? Are you also able to share a wiring diagram for the smart load side of the connection?
@@stanslaszulu the Smart Load is only useable for "excess solar"
It only switches on when your battery is almost full an PV is high (according to your settings)
You should put everything on Load, eccept things like stoves (geyser) which can still be power by solar & battery, but not during a power failure. (CT must be placed correctly)
Watch my other videos on Smart load and auto change over switch useage.
@@bolandsystems9707 thanks for the response and I will watch more of your vids on smart load. I am in a smaller house and my normal/consistent load is about 500watts which is 2 fridges, TVs, lights, internet routers, a laptop or 2 plus some speakers. I am using one 5kw inverter. The most load it has handled is 4kw when I had a heading element and microwave on but this was for a short time. I am moving to a bigger house where the consistent load will increase to maybe 1200 when I add more lighting plus cameras, gats motor and water pump. I will install two 5kw inverters in the bigger place. Plus I have panels with max wattage of 11kw plus total storage of 20kwh. I know I will have a lot of excess power so I am trying to figure out how I can optimise the use of the excess capacity to power the rest of the heavy appliances like geysers, aircons and possibly stove/oven using the smart load.
@stanslaszulu with that setup, I would:
Put everything on Load, except the older type of stove (can still be driven by solar & batteries if set to: Zero export to CT.)
Then follow my setup for your geyser to be powered by
- Smart Load [when ever there is excess PV & batteries almost full]
- Grid [when it's cloudy]
- a heat pump is expensive but works lovely on an inverter
We use an airfrier (oven type), induction stove & microwave and have no more need for a stove
Make sure your aircon are the inverter type. They are great with power usage and soft start.
In winter you might struggle to get 20kWh batteries loaded to full with 11kW panels.
Rainy days your PV can drop to 10% production or even less.
Adding panels will not be a sound investment though (pay 100% for 10% - 50% production for a few cloudy days only)
Can i call you ? Setting this up
What will a geyser control box setup like this cost?
Hard to say.
I do not know your setup.
Ideally: a 2nd 200l geyser connected to the Smart Load output (electrician) replacing the 4kW element with a 2kW (plumber).
Add an auto change-over switch & smart wifi timer.
Optional: add relay powered by main geyser's element to switch between 2 geysers.
Electricals +-$300 (R6000)
2nd geyser +-$600 (R12000)
You should not need to use grid power ever again, other than cloudy rainy days.
Temp is much more controlable than solar geysers which tend to overheat
@bolandsystems9707 thanks. How can I get hold of you?
Where did you get the Changeover switch that has the WiFi capability?
@@Vkara01 no, the WiFi switch is left of the auto-change over.
It provides grid power to the change over if SL was not enough
My Deye invertor, Smart Load "on" only 100% battery. :(
You can set the SOC% for ON & OFF at any %.
I choose 90% On, because I want some reserve charging left over for the battery.
Once my Volta reaches 100%, any load > PV will let the SOC drop with only a trickle charge feeding it (will not charge to 100% again before it drops below 90%)
@@bolandsystems9707 you can't do less than 100% on my deye.
The inverter does not allow you to change this setting.
That's why SMART doesn't start for me.
And in general, everyone praises Deye, but I don't like it, there is a lot in it, but it doesn't work, or it doesn't work normally.
@@dieselodesaMy Deye 5KW inverter is the same. The ON battery SOC % cannot be changed.
I ran into the following issue (but there is a workaround):
My standard backup load is around 500W and my geyser is 2000W.
I figured the logical "Power" setting under SmartLoad should be 2500W, which can run backup load and smartload without needing the battery to help.
On heavy cloudy days, I only reached 2500W solar out much later in the day. By then, the battery managed to recharge back to 100% with less than 2500W available solar power.
The BMS on my Volta Stage 1 batteries ( 2 of them in parallel) does not keep the battery at 100% SOC.
Not long after reaching 100% SOC, they will drop down to 99.9% SOC.
And now for the issue:
When solar output did reach 2500W, my batteries were 99.9% SOC and SmartLoad would not turn on as the batteries are not 100% SOC.
The workaround was to change the "Power" value to a lower value (1500W).
Now, when the batteries do reach 100% SOC, SmartLoad turns on because the "Power" value is met.
The drawback is that the battery will need to supplement power if there is less than 2500W.
If there is for example 2000W solar power available, the inverter draws 2000W from the panels and 500W from the battery.
This is not a problem in general as the battery will only drop to the OFF SOC % setting in a worst case scenario.
In most cases, I do draw a bit of battery power until solar output reaches 2500W.
I hope this helps.
Depending on your firmware, when you choose Smart Load, the the % appears under Micro Inverter.
Change the % settings there.
(When you tick Micro inverter, you will see the % changes, thus those blocks are used for both SL & MI... confusing, I know)
Hi. Regarding your setup that allows a 2nd geyser to be heated if the 1st one is already hot:
What is the name of the "relay" that you refer to in your video?
czcams.com/video/fIXeK_-b12c/video.html
I am currently running my geyser on SmartLoad. No issues there.
On a sunny day, my batteries are fully charged and my geyser is hot before midday.
The rest of the day, my panel power is mostly wasted.
I was considering powering an additional geyser using your "relay" setup.
Perhaps you have more information on how it works or could supply the part name or a link that explains how to set it up.
Thank you in advance.
Hi Niel.
The relay is a common DIN rail 20A relay powered by 220Vac. Most electrical suppliers should have one. (CHNT model NCH8-20/11)
My Smart load goes to both, but the 2nd geyser's power 1st goes through the relay's N/C.
That means, when the Smart Load power switches the 1st geyser on, it also powers the relay to open the N/C contact to the 2nd geyser.
When the 1st geyser's thermostat switches off, the power to the element is cut.
The relay is therfor wired onto the element of the 1st geyser.
I also added DIN rail LEDs to indicate which one is on.
1 - connected to feed from element to relay
2 - connected to feed to 2nd geyser's tripswitch (better to connect to it's element input)
You should strongly consider a 200l geyser & 2kW element (with screw connectors on element) as your spare geyser BEFORE your main geyser's input.
Water flows through 2nd geyser to 1st (main) geyser
The main geyser's temp is regulated (50°C) and the spare geyser is dependant on excess solar, set to 70°C (fluctuating)
So add a wifi timer to your main geyser, preferably via an auto change-over (SL or timer input to power geyser 1)
If it rains, the timer will switch on & heat the main geyser.
90% of the time your SL will heat both.
Let me know if you need a sketch.
@@bolandsystems9707 Hi. Please send me a sketch if you can 🙂