How to replace Idler Arm
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- This is one of those lessons in "do it right the first time" kind of thing. I tried to save a few bucks getting a part off Ebay instead of trusted vendors and it backfired.
The Idler Arm on my 1966 Mustang was 55 years old and in need of replacement. Once I had the correct part, this replacement was super easy to do. There may have been an easier or better way to remove the Idler Arm from the steering linkage, but I had to use a pickle fork to get it separated.
Idler Arm from NPD = Part number 3352-3S, or Amazon amzn.to/3PVIZUS
Heads up, be careful ordering the Centric part of Ebay, the picture in the listing looks like the correct part, but the part I received was different and did not fit.
The car is a 1966 Mustang Coupe with a factory V8 and 4 speed transmission.
Shot with GoPro Hero 8 with the Media Mod, edited on Davinci Resolve 16.
Credit for the music in the video:
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Epidemic Sound
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I appreciate all of your awesome videos Andy. I have a 66 and 67 Mustang and I’ve referred to your videos for guidance a few times already. Thank you!
That is awesome, glad I can provide some helpful info!
I really appreciate your videos Andy, thanks for the assist(s)!
My pleasure!
Your next two videos - how to replace a standard starter motor that's really close to the header with a PMGR starter; how to remove and replace the stock crossmember with a Z-Ray crossmember. :) Just a couple of ideas that went through my head while watching your video. Yes, wrong sized parts are extremely frustrating. You worked through it though and good to go for a few more years. :)
I had to double check what I have uploaded. Nope, those are not the next two videos. ;)
That Starter video is probably a good idea, I don't know how old mine is, it might need to be replaced.
Nothing like a good torque wrench lol. Thanks Andy. Been procrastinating doing mine even though i have all the parts.
I cut out the quite a bit of time where I was banging on things and saying bad words. :) But I got it figured out. As long as you have the correct part, this project is easy.
This was a great "lessons learned" video. You never mentioned the brand. I only install OEM brands like Moog or aftermarket Scott Drake in my 53 year owned 1965 Mustang. . That may be why all my parts fit this last week when rebuilding the full front suspension and steering. I never buy on eBay, only using relaible vendors like NPD and Summit. Some parts also differ based upon 6 or 8 cyclinder. I upgraded my Pitman and Idler arms to the Shelby GT350 quick steer kit from Tony Branda (Branda Racing now).
Yeah, I wish I could afford name brand parts, or oem-type parts from vendors like NPD or Summit, but sometimes the budget dictates what I get. In the particular case, I'm out the time waiting for the new part, so assigning a value to that can be subjective. What happened hear is miscommunication on the vendor's end, which can happen with places like NPD or Summit. That being said, there are some parts that I know I need to by the OEM-type, and I do. :)
Thanks for the vid! I always need more tips on suspension bits,not very good at those
Happy to help!
Back in the day you would have made a great auto shop teacher. Thanks for sharing all that you do. Much appreciated.
I appreciate that!
Open Tracker Racing sells a roller idler arm that has bearings which makes steering easier.
I'll have to look into that, I might need to replace this on my new car. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Just used their roller and spring perches on my 66. Works great, big difference. John at Opentrackers is awesome.
Can you tell me what headers you are running. I got a set of tri ys and they didn't fit because the hit the bell housing
I think they're either a set of Scott Drake Tri-Ys or some other knock off brand. It looks like a previous owner tried to cut and weld them to fit the car, but in the end they were just cheap garage. I ended up replacing them during the T5 swap.
Have are you leaning towards replacement parts even if designed to OEM specs for any particular reason? I understand a thicker sway bar or adding monte Carlo/frame rails etc, but are you really after just swapping to new bushings and cleaning up connections?
Some parts I replace because they are worn out or broken, but whether it's an OEM replacement part or aftermarket can vary depending on the part. Some parts I replace because they're an improvement over the OEM piece, whether it's performance related or it provides a longer service life. Some parts I replace because I know it is something others will need to do and it makes for a good video on my channel. And sometimes I replaces parts purely because I want something different, as in there was nothing wrong with the previous part, I just wanted something else.
When replacing parts, I can be driven by price. For example, the part in this particular video was purchased off ebay as it was cheaper than going to the parts store here in town. While I had to wait a few days to get the part, my car is not a daily driver, so letting it sit for a few days to save a few bucks was worth the time cost. However, I was sent the wrong part, causing me to spend time going through the return process, shipping the part back, ordering another part (from someone else), and waiting for it to arrive. In this particular case, it just would have been easier to go to the auto parts store and get the correct part the first time and be done with it. But, that's the trade off, sometimes you get burned trying to save a few bucks.
Despite what it may look like in my videos, I'm not flush with cash, so price plays a large role in what I do and the parts I order. Sometimes I come out ahead, and sometimes I end up paying more than I should. But sharing these experiences can possibly save others a few bucks, and that can make it all worth it. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel totally understand and agree! I'm right there with you on costs.. I have definitely considered making my 66 my daily driver and pouring all the proceeds into a dream build situation.
Hi. Any special torque specs on those castle nuts, Andy?
35-45 ft-lbs is where you want to be. :)
I have a 66 with an inline 6 cylinder manual transmission. I had my axles drilled out to a 5 lug pattern so I can have bigger wheels.
Up front I bought V8 spindles so I can have disc brakes and of course bigger wheels. But I am keeping it a 6 cylinder.
I know since I will have V8 spindles I need V8 steering linkage. Idler arm, drag link, tie rod ends etc.
But I assume I'm safe with using a 6 Cylinder Pittman arm, and the 6 cylinder Equalizer/Z bar for my clutch. And since steering boxes aren't 6 cylinder or V8 specific I'm good with my original box. Does this make sense?
Unfortunately I don't know enough of the details surrounding the 6 cyl steering linkage and box. I haven't had to deal with that stuff, but the boys over at VMF can probably answer that question better than I can. :)
I just went there. Wanted different thoughts and opinions. Thanks. Appreciate it!@@AndyKruseChannel
Are you trying to keep original steering or will you switch to rack and pinion.
I'd like to get power steering, but I can keep most of my stock parts for that upgrade. Did you have something in mind?
Hopefully 🤣🤣😅. It's almost like this piece doesn't fit this bar. 😅🤣. Sorry to laugh at your expense. You handled it well.
There were different words in my head at that time when it didn't fit, but I didn't want to wear out the Bleep button.
I noticed you had 2 new washer with the correct idler arm, where did they go??:"?
They were installed afterwards, when I noticed them sitting on my bench. But by then I had already finished the video. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Ok was just wondering where they go!
@@user-yn5kb7ep2l On the top and bottom of the new idler arm bushings, along with that large washer with the D-slot in it from the stock Idler Arm. :)
I'm assuming the first part was for a 6 cylinder,csecond was v8? Let me know please
That’s possible, but I never did find out. The second one was the part I needed. 🙂
@AndyKruseChannel maybe a different year. I changed over my 1961 comet to V8 steering and the parts for the swap came from mustangs and comets of the 1965 era. The v8 stuff was different, bigger
can you put the part number here and where did you get it
I purchased this part from National Parts Depot, part number 3352-3S.
Hi, you had a 6 cyl. Manual steering arm instead of a v8 , there are 2 bushing sizes
You’re probably correct. All I know is the part they sent me didn’t match the part they advertised. 😁
I watched your video it is good but you didn’t say ware the two washers go on the idler arm
Between the castle nut and the bushing on the new idler arm. :)
I wish I could swap out my almost 50 years old arms🤣😅
I know a guy....
Never buy parts from Ebay Andy !!! 😁
Haha, you're not wrong, but sometimes there are great deals out there. But in this case, I got a bad one. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Hey Andy have you done the pitman arm yet ?? I'll b waiting for that video 😁..
@@markhooper6674 No, but I would like to. Currently, the header is all smashed in where the pitman arm is hitting it. Turning left is cut short by about 20%, so I'd like to either get a different arm or different headers. Or maybe both!!
It's an idler arm, not idle arm.
Fixed, thanks for the heads up. :)