Common Pistol Upgrades for Competition
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- čas přidán 31. 05. 2024
- In this video, Myles breaks down the most common pistol upgrades you will see at Sport Competitions. Everything from triggers, enhancing grips and barrels, are discussed in this video to get you up to speed and ready for your next competition.
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I was looking at the Canik tp9sfx. Great platform and is one of the less expensive fully loaded pistols out.
Trivia
- Tungsten guide rod is quite popular as it adds significant weight noticeable even by average shooters.
- Precision barrel can also helpful when you have to shoot a steel popper at 38 m, which can be found in world shoot IPSC.
- Be careful when dryfire in your home if you have weighted magazines as the mag can drop onto your barefoot or toes and that's quite unpleasant at the least. (Yes I speak from my experience.)
- I might miss it but you did not mentioned magazine well, which can also add significant advantage and is a cheap upgrade. But be sure to get mag base pad that will fit as well.
- Before any upgrade it is necessary to check the equipment rules of the competition you intended to compete first as many upgrades are permanent and cannot be undone or you might just lose money doing so just to find it is not permitted in your division.
- This is the most advanced and can throw off the operability of the gun: Slide stripling. Can reduce slide weight of the slide (meaning recoil less) or just provide more grip when racking the slide. This can also express aesthetic and skill of the gunsmith.
Magazine well is illegal in all divisions except for limited and open so he is correct to not include that in the video with the Glocks he's referring too
They missed porting the barrel also
The reason I like the Holosun 507c red dot sight is for the circle dot reticle. The dot is 2 moa but the circle is 32 moa.
The most common thing you should upgrade is your shooting abilities. Thanks, Miles!
Pretty sure he covered this when he said "these upgrades well not make you a great shooter"; implying that you still need to practice.
Nice video Myles , for the guide rod assembly it need to be set up in the right way choosing the right spring for the ammo you're going to use.. and as for the weight, there you have it : plastic 0,91-0,96Kg/dm3 , Titanium 4,87Kg/dm3 , Tungsten 19,1Kg/dm3 .. Hi from italy
What about internal parts that are coated with a finish that has a lower coefficient of friction? Like trigger bar, connector, striker, safety plunger, and extractor. Most finishes like TiN, TiCN, NP3, and NiB also make the parts A LOT harder and durable
Great information! Thanks
Great information, thank you
Shadow Systems Elite Optics Ready Models come pretty legit out of the box . DR920 or DR920P Paired with MRDS , TTI or ARREDONDO Mag Extension / Baseplates , and SS Guide rod / recoil spring combo. This is all I did to my DR ..
My main comp PISTOL is P320 X5 LEGION. The only thing I've done to it is add 507C-X2-ACSS , Silicone carbide Grips and Armory Craft 10% trigger return SPRING. The return SPRING makes the TRIGGER reset like a Glock and pushes your finger forward . I used 46-70 silicone carbide and I did it myself . Took a whopping 10min to do silicone carbide..
Super helpful
Thanks for the info
Myles, What kind of trigger is on that g34? Also what is the pull weight?.Thanks.
Good info~
5:00 - Not to split hairs but just want to clarify something because this is a common misconception: Gravity does not cause a heavier guide rod to fall back on target faster. Acceleration due to gravity is 9.8 m/sec^2 (32 ft/sec^2) on all objects regardless of mass, weight, density, etc. What the heavier guide rod DOES do is prevent the muzzle from rising as far to begin with, which means the muzzle will fall back to zero sooner. So from a practical standpoint, a heavier guide rod will cause the muzzle to return to zero sooner, because it doesn't leave zero by as much to begin with, not because it falls faster. Kinda similar story at 7:10 - The extra weight of the magazine base plates helps the magazine overcome the friction between the magazine and the magazine well so the heavier magazine will break loose from the gun sooner. So it doesn't fall faster, it starts falling sooner. But the benefit is the same. I'm thinking of writing a book: Useless Theoretical Physics for Advanced Shooters. (LOL)
Nice video! I do mechanical design and physics, so this stuff is interesting to me. Galileo proved heavier objects fall at the same speed as lighter objects, unless the lighter one catches more wind. The weighted parts are good for stabilizing the muzzle, but not falling faster.
I don't think he meant falling faster more likely the added weight helps over come the drag in the grip and clears the mag more positively. My guess any way.
I guess it takes more force to lift heavy parts. Less distance that it will take to go back to the target?
@@clintsantos Its possible, but follow ups matter less to me than first shot time. It takes longer to lift a heavier gun, so I prefer a lighter muzzle.
I'm an old Novak & Tritium sight guy...But getting old.
In the case if a "red dot sight" do they now have adapters available so that you don't have to mill your slide?
Emphasis on 'dedicated'. Lots of those upgrades can mess with reliability or high stress manipulation. No.1 reason of Block reliability issues are upgrades followed by no cleaning. Don't carry your competition upgrades unless you made sure it's reliable with lots of different ammo and when hot and cold. Extended mag releases may release mags unexpected.
That g 34 was 'a bit' dirty when you disassembled it, Miles! 😅😂🤣
Noticed your fingers slightly blackish there 😅
A very nice subject - good advice showing what does what and love the caviat: if you're a causal weekend competitor those upgrades won't make you a GM.
Cost effective sources of upgrade parts?
I've never tried shooting competitively before and your videos help out tremendously.
I mainly shoot local 2Gun matches . They are so much fun . Where else can you shoot on the move , while having to think also managing stress and lastly maintaining accuracy with speed .
Where else can you pay 40 to test you skills .
I honestly dont know why more people dont shoot 2Gun . Being able to run PISTOL and Carbine at a MATCH is pure bliss
So as this is all very specific to Production or CO divisions ( the Open gun edits intercut are a bit distracting as you’re not discussing $5000 + pistols ), I wouldn’t recommend spending much if any time or money on upgrading a division legal stock full size Prod or CO pistol until you are actually moderately competitive at the game. Then, if you decide you’re into it , you can look at upgrading to models that have been factory modified for competition , like the Canik Rival, CZ Shadow 2, Sig P320 Legion etc. I see a lot of guys have malfunctions at matches with self modified pistols that really didn’t need anything done to them. Trigger speed and split times while shooting 9mm Minor aren’t really a thing for most people as accurately scoring hits and moving fast is a bigger deal. I shot a stock CZ P10F for my first year of comp to learn the game. Only upgrades were a Dawson red fiber optic front sight and Talon Granulate tape on the grip. Now I shoot a stock Sig P320 Max or tuned Shadow 2 .
Practical shooting is way more about your skill, training level and game IQ than your gear. There’s lots of dudes with very very expensive pistols who are never near the top of a match ...or there’s my buddy who shoots his stock G17 with a holster from Walmart (sometimes with black tape over his RMR ! ) and always finishes in the top of his division .
Not necessarily a competition item, adding a suppressor made my Glock extremely pleasant. The weight out there seemed to eliminate any muzzle flip.
You forgot the polishing of the internals. The the cheapest upgrade most shooters can do with their pistol
Flared wells
Holster spacing?
Where’s my boy Coch at with that beat knifes video
Taran tactical makes a tunable spring kit for glocks. Also take a dremel and buff/polish any moving metal parts... pre break it in, extra buttery
Physics tells us that regardless of the weight, all magazines fall at the exact same rate. That being said, how does one magazine get out of the gun faster than another? If all friction is removed between the mag and mag well, no additional weight is required.
Glock perfection…for upgrades.
If you're going to upgrade the trigger I would strenuously recommend that you hit the range repeatedly, well before any competing.
I had a trigger from Apex for about a week in my EDC and one day I randomly just did a function check to find that it wasn't releasing the striker. The only way to remove it and put the stock trigger back in was to remove the pins and pull the entire assembly out while attached to the slide.
I had used it a couple of times at the range and felt confident with it. Luckily I found out it wasn't working in a scenario where I didn't need my pistol.
RAD
I would add,
Start with a Canik SFX Rival...donate the glock to a local LEO shelter...done
Tungsten.... not titanium. Don't expect operators to be armorers