I did this a couple months back, chasing down a rattle. I found a similar spacer, but was not about to pay what they wanted for it. So, i took out the grinder, chopped off one of the ears of the factory part, gave it a little sanding and it was the perfect size
What about that rattle lol ... I’m chasing it too I’m praying it’s a pulley and the the actual tensioner / water pump and worst the belt mine is very suddle-fine
I’ve done this back in October of 2021 when I changed out the motor and upgraded my transmission to the CD009. Definitely easier than this way but less rotational mass frees up some minor hp 1-3 maybe, biggest thing is the damn pulley bearing failing. Just remember the part number of the new belt. New part stores won’t have it unless you bring in the new belt number.
Sorry for getting to the party late, but yeah, delete the damn pulley asap! I deleted mine, went for a drive, and grinned the entire time. It's not a placebo. Go into it expecting nothing and feel how much closer your shift point gets! It's quieter, noticeably smoother, and all around better.
THANK YOU SO MUCH, very well explained . I was able to do mine today on my G35, steering is no longer stiff, that horrible screech is now gone . This was not hard to do at all.
Love your videos! 👍 I did my pulley delete a couple years ago, the kit is actually a waste of $ if you have the right tools. I took the old bracket out and cut off the part that bolts in (spacer) shaved and polished it and theres your spacer 😎👍 I do notice it's definitely alot snappier but i also deleted AC and have the z1 crank pulley which is 2lbs lighter and a smaller alternator pulley, also might make a difference I have a 18lb solid flywheel instead of stock dual mass with an Inland Empire aluminum driveshaft. The stock driveshaft is light but the aluminum one is lighter side by side. The OE universal joints were completely shot and they are not replaceable so I got that one with changeable spicer U joints for bout $450
You definitely did a lot of work to get rid of a lot of rotational mass. Thank you for your support! If you'd like some free stickers, email me at info@gofasthavefun.ca
Hey Anthony, I just did the idler delete and changed both tensioner wheels, too, and your Video was really good to see how you do it. 2 Things I'd like to comment on: First, while you are at it it might be good to take out the tensioner assembly and lubricate the tensioning bolt with some lithium grease, mine was pretty crusty (also did the air con idler pully). It is only 3 bolts and the thing comes out, easy to do when the belts are off. Second thing: I replaced the two bolts that before held the idler pulley, I was a bit nervous because now I had to bolt them in 12 mm more than before - I was worried it would burst something on the inside. But I saw that you did it, so.... So my question is: Did you know there was sufficient space left in the bore hole or did you just went for it with a prayer ;) . Anyways, thanks, great channel!
I don’t know what I’m doing wrong but the spacer is not going in, I loosened the power steering pump bolt like you did but it doesn’t do anything for me, I take both of them out, (second bolt is behind the pulley itself) that only loosens the pump idk what the black part is part of, maybe the timing chain cover idk… all I’m doing is chipping the spacer and the timing chain cover
I ran into this. But the thread insert for the idler pulley was damaged. The old pulley fell out on the customer in the middle of the off ramp. So I didnt have it, to compare bolt size, or anything. So the part wasnt available at any auto part store. Went to the junkyard, found one tested the bult and it was loose. So I couldn't finish, car is on the road. Thread insert 😢 really?😢🤕🤧 They need to toe it to a shop.
@AnthonyJ350 thanks man 🌌 still got paid. Hood people saw my efforts. Shop said I did everything right. All I need is a hood parts supplier 🤣😂🤣
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Thank you for sharing ur knowledge J. I hope U can assist me here. My 2009 FX35 rwd suv, needs the DIFF. BUSHING. Infiniti does not sell the bushing separately. Is there a Diff. Bushing avail., for this suv?. I can't find it anywhere, on you tube, or else where, what bushing I could use for sure. Any advice will highly appreciated. Keep up ur good work. Thnx.
No issues with belt noise. Fired it up and it was nice an quiet. I cleaned off the pullies and double checked belt tension (I wish it was a self tensioner).
Is it normal for my plenum to jump up when I rev my car I just got it back from the dealer after getting spark plug changed so I'm not sure if they screwed me over as I notice the car feels more responsive, but when I get someone to rev it while checking the engine bay the plenum moves up when it gets rev is it normal I didn't see this before so I'm confused?
@@AnthonyJ350 czcams.com/video/eW1HvCoyqyc/video.html 8:36 it does this movement when revving is it normal can't take a video of my car as its in the shop at the moment still the mechanic says its normal, but something is off so I'm confused at the moment.
@@AnthonyJ350 I replaced my Crank pulley and alternator pulley with light weight never had a problem till this day !! If you do do it don't forget the crankshaft seal so it won't leak. My next goal is aluminum driveshaft, I'm trying to reduce as much weight as possible
Anthony, I don't agree with the benefits of removing the "Extra Pulley" .You're not going see the difference in a Dyno Run. The Pulley is not high failure item. This is just a Placebo delete. Perhaps if you were adding a belt driven supercharger and you needed the room, I could see some benefits.
@@stealthg35infiniti94 But why would Nissan make the parts to delete it if it has some sort of purpose? Isn't removing mass and simplifying just a good idea in general?
I did this a couple months back, chasing down a rattle. I found a similar spacer, but was not about to pay what they wanted for it. So, i took out the grinder, chopped off one of the ears of the factory part, gave it a little sanding and it was the perfect size
Nice!
What about that rattle lol ... I’m chasing it too I’m praying it’s a pulley and the the actual tensioner / water pump and worst the belt mine is very suddle-fine
I’ve done this back in October of 2021 when I changed out the motor and upgraded my transmission to the CD009. Definitely easier than this way but less rotational mass frees up some minor hp 1-3 maybe, biggest thing is the damn pulley bearing failing. Just remember the part number of the new belt. New part stores won’t have it unless you bring in the new belt number.
Thanks so much for sharing!
Wise man, wise advice. 👍🏻
Sorry for getting to the party late, but yeah, delete the damn pulley asap! I deleted mine, went for a drive, and grinned the entire time. It's not a placebo. Go into it expecting nothing and feel how much closer your shift point gets! It's quieter, noticeably smoother, and all around better.
Thanks for sharing!
THANK YOU SO MUCH, very well explained . I was able to do mine today on my G35, steering is no longer stiff, that horrible screech is now gone . This was not hard to do at all.
Glad you were able to perform the job on your own!
the delete kit costs almost the same as the part. so i got the delete kit 😎
Nice!
Love your videos! 👍 I did my pulley delete a couple years ago, the kit is actually a waste of $ if you have the right tools. I took the old bracket out and cut off the part that bolts in (spacer) shaved and polished it and theres your spacer 😎👍 I do notice it's definitely alot snappier but i also deleted AC and have the z1 crank pulley which is 2lbs lighter and a smaller alternator pulley, also might make a difference I have a 18lb solid flywheel instead of stock dual mass with an Inland Empire aluminum driveshaft. The stock driveshaft is light but the aluminum one is lighter side by side. The OE universal joints were completely shot and they are not replaceable so I got that one with changeable spicer U joints for bout $450
You definitely did a lot of work to get rid of a lot of rotational mass.
Thank you for your support! If you'd like some free stickers, email me at info@gofasthavefun.ca
Indeed to all... good to place a label under hood to specific "Belts for 20xx Infiniti" or whatever, when they withdrew that useless idler.
Thanks for the comment!
I did that mod 4 years ago. I bought my kit from z1
Nice!
Just finished mine right now.
Went pretty smooth?
Hey Anthony, I just did the idler delete and changed both tensioner wheels, too, and your Video was really good to see how you do it. 2 Things I'd like to comment on: First, while you are at it it might be good to take out the tensioner assembly and lubricate the tensioning bolt with some lithium grease, mine was pretty crusty (also did the air con idler pully). It is only 3 bolts and the thing comes out, easy to do when the belts are off. Second thing: I replaced the two bolts that before held the idler pulley, I was a bit nervous because now I had to bolt them in 12 mm more than before - I was worried it would burst something on the inside. But I saw that you did it, so.... So my question is: Did you know there was sufficient space left in the bore hole or did you just went for it with a prayer ;) . Anyways, thanks, great channel!
I was confident because it's a kit that has been installed countless times by others.
I don’t know what I’m doing wrong but the spacer is not going in, I loosened the power steering pump bolt like you did but it doesn’t do anything for me, I take both of them out, (second bolt is behind the pulley itself) that only loosens the pump idk what the black part is part of, maybe the timing chain cover idk… all I’m doing is chipping the spacer and the timing chain cover
Not sure, did you get it in?
I ran into this. But the thread insert for the idler pulley was damaged. The old pulley fell out on the customer in the middle of the off ramp. So I didnt have it, to compare bolt size, or anything. So the part wasnt available at any auto part store. Went to the junkyard, found one tested the bult and it was loose. So I couldn't finish, car is on the road. Thread insert 😢 really?😢🤕🤧
They need to toe it to a shop.
Sorry to hear that
@AnthonyJ350 thanks man 🌌 still got paid. Hood people saw my efforts. Shop said I did everything right. All I need is a hood parts supplier 🤣😂🤣
Thank you for sharing ur knowledge J. I hope U can assist me here. My 2009 FX35 rwd suv, needs the DIFF. BUSHING. Infiniti does not sell the bushing separately. Is there a Diff. Bushing avail., for this suv?. I can't find it anywhere, on you tube, or else where, what bushing I could use for sure. Any advice will highly appreciated. Keep up ur good work. Thnx.
I would check Z1 Motorsports and ask them if the G35 part will fit for your application.
Like the video, and think its a good idea. Did you have any issues with belt squeaks after removing the idler?
No issues with belt noise. Fired it up and it was nice an quiet. I cleaned off the pullies and double checked belt tension (I wish it was a self tensioner).
What kind of belt did u use cause mine not fitting
The belt that came with the kit. FX35 works as well or 2006.5 350Z should also work I believe.
Lol bruh I'm so scared to take that off! Oh shit I learned sum new
Could ask your mechanic if you don't feel comfortable doing it.
Hi, Do you remember how long the new belt is? Thanks
Just order one for a 2006.5 or the FX35 mentioned in Z1's instructions
Does this make a difference if it AT as supposed to MT?
I think any engine would benefit when simplifying, regardless of transmission.
Is it normal for my plenum to jump up when I rev my car I just got it back from the dealer after getting spark plug changed so I'm not sure if they screwed me over as I notice the car feels more responsive, but when I get someone to rev it while checking the engine bay the plenum moves up when it gets rev is it normal I didn't see this before so I'm confused?
Do you have a Kenetix composit intake on it?
@@AnthonyJ350 No I only have a 5/16 spacer motordyn was preciously in the car when I got it.
@@braesbal9236 I'd have to see a video of what the engine is doing.
@@AnthonyJ350 czcams.com/video/eW1HvCoyqyc/video.html
8:36 it does this movement when revving is it normal can't take a video of my car as its in the shop at the moment still the mechanic says its normal, but something is off so I'm confused at the moment.
@@braesbal9236 Sure it's just not the engine moving on the motor mounts?
I been doing lots of work on my G35. Wondering what is the benefits of the delete?
Maybe a slight difference in getting to a higher RPM quicker? Cleaner look and weight reduction.
@@DPrent bet ok ok thnx yo
One less thing to go wrong and removing a tiny bit of weight.
@@AnthonyJ350 won't cause a future issue not having a idle pully?
@@kidgreenthumb708 What would the issue be?
Is it possible doing it on a 04 350z?
Yup you should be able to do this mod.
Get some light weight pulleys ! And it will help on response and throttle
I'm on the fence on that. Doesn't the crankshaft pulley help with harmonics?
@@AnthonyJ350 I replaced my Crank pulley and alternator pulley with light weight never had a problem till this day !! If you do do it don't forget the crankshaft seal so it won't leak. My next goal is aluminum driveshaft, I'm trying to reduce as much weight as possible
@@LuisGonzalez-vx1oo How much lighter is the aluminum vs the composit version?
@@AnthonyJ350 2 lbs vs 6.25 lbs, plus if you get the alternator light pulley an do the pulley ideal delete you shave off so much rotational mass.
@@LuisGonzalez-vx1oo That's pretty cool
Anthony, I don't agree with the benefits of removing the "Extra Pulley" .You're not going see the difference in a Dyno Run. The Pulley is not high failure item. This is just a Placebo delete. Perhaps if you were adding a belt driven supercharger and you needed the room, I could see some benefits.
What are the benefits of keeping it? Nissan decided to remove it half way through 2006. There's certainly no negatives to the removal.
I spoke with a Nissan engineer, and he loves this little mod.
@@AnthonyJ350 Yes, I understand you Can remove it. Benefits: None to Subjective.
@@stealthg35infiniti94 That's cool, you don't have to do it if you don't like it.
@@stealthg35infiniti94 But why would Nissan make the parts to delete it if it has some sort of purpose? Isn't removing mass and simplifying just a good idea in general?
Ayoo man I would love to get in contact with you! Ask you a lot more questions lol but I live in LA cA and wonder if 10-40w would be fine for my DE
Probably would be fine. I use Castrol 5W40 synthetic in my car.
what are replacement part numbers
Check the video description, I have it all there.