Am 72...and have pinched my share of bars. One thing I always do when cutting my long, straight, and big trees, in prep before I start slicing it up, I lay some smaller pieces of the cut limbs under the larger trunk. It sometimes helps to keep the large trunk off the ground as I am cutting it up. That also sometimes makes cutting the compression-side first a bit easier and might help keep the bar out of the dirt. And yes...a wedge is the way to go.
The correct way is to cut the compression side first. Then the tension side. You will have to determine which is which. It totally depends on how the log is laying. If in doubt use a wedge. Westcoast logger with 44 years of experience. I learned a long time ago how not to get pinched.
The easiest way to cut that log, WITHOUT ANY PINCHING OF THE BAR, OR THE NEED FOR ANY WEDGES, is you cut down form the top until just as it starts to pinch, or you see the "gap" start to close... then here's the trick... you then come up from the bottom, BUT your cut should be just a bar width to the left or right of the top cut. You chose the side depending on which way it is tilting. Tilting to the right... bottom cut to the left of top cut and visa versa. You will never ever pinch a bar again. If it's level like here... doesn't matter which way you choose. 👌
I suppose when the log separates, it falls not interfering with the bar, seems fine with firewood but won't the saw mills frown on a staggered cut? Lots of good tips here in comments, I have been sawing for coming up on fourty years, firewood not pro, and learning every day out. Stay Humble.. nice video.., in the early yrs., I never used wedges , I do now, so...you learn quick if you want to keep sawing and not get bad. Carry on. Thanks to everyone.
If you don't want to cut a cord every 20minutes you can try all these diff. ways. In time you can feel the point of pinch, pull it out and upcut. I would be cutting my 5th one as 2nd wedge was put in. 40 yrs. of timbering, high production firewood and never used a wedge.
See that’s 40 years & high production experience. A lot of blokes just cut their own firewood to get thru winter & then don’t touch a saw for 10 months. Because of lack of experience/use I’ve pinched bars a few times & it’s a pain in the arse. Since using a couple of wedges, I haven’t jammed one. That’s saved me a heap of time.
You can use a technique called "Reaming the cut". If the log has top bind, cut down a ways and before it pinches, pull yer saw out toward you, not out the top. Rev it and bore back into the cut, not the top. Cut down, rinse and repeat a few times till the top kerf comes closed. Once that happens, just finish the cut. Can be used for bottom bind too. Wallyo.
Yeah he is quite correct on that and the start of pinching can be felt in time to pull it out after sometime cutting. I also think if you don't have a sharp chain and set up saw to just keep zinging through it and you need work the saw to get through, it will deprive you of attaining that needed feeling of pinch start. You couldn't notch a tree with the chains I make for producing firewood, you actually need to hold back on the saw vs. many who need work the saw through. I have pic.'s of racing my 064 against the newer (back then) 066 with one in each hand. Only because of my chains that I could just lay them on the log, crack them open and they eat themselves through. And for anyone, I pushed limits all the time but always wore my chaps.
With all the different opinions surfacing how to do this cut, I've come to recognize that you know have done it well enough if you walk away intact when it's over, with your saw in-hand, of course. Love my 461 magnum. Great saw for bore cuts. Keep it up, PartyMarty.
Cheers Ryan, Many different options for different situations. I’m not a logger - just a weekend warrior 😜 Usually bush alone so aim for the safest option, not always the quickest or most efficient as I’m never in a hurry cutting wood 🤙🇦🇺
I would have started my cut at the bottom as the log was not in the dirt. Cut about 5 or 9 inches from the bottom up. Than pull your saw out and start cutting from the the top. It will go much faster cutting rounds or cutting logs. Or reverse and cut the top until it starts to pinch. Than finish the cut from the bottom up. Way faster than using wedges.
a bit different ; as the trunks compression/tension lays 99% in the horizontal line , my first cut, if there are doubts, will allways a vertical one till halfway the trunk ( vertical as in the video 0.30 -0.34) and then proceed as your doings
Nice job but there is a method of cutting wood used by a sawier on channel Garden and Forest, where you don't need wedges. Effective and safe -for you and your chain.
Next time cut down only , pound wedges as soon as they fit then just cut down more right through the bottom it won't pinch ur saw, or do 2 cuts like u did without wedges
G’day Dave, 461 Magnum (76.5cc) 20”bar. Tree didn’t have leaves & the spindly twigs were gone but main trunk was still fairly green. Maybe it’d come down 12 months prior?
@@Party-Marty Yup, the X27 out chopped an 8lb splitting maul I bought, and was slightly, but clearly a better splitter than my Collins 4lb axe. It just doesn't look as good as it is.
If you're not using it that often or for long periods of time, electric is the way to go. Much less maintenance and complexity. Stihl and Ego make good 18" models that will serve you well.
I’m not sure if you mean electric or battery powered 🤔 An entry level ms170 petrol Stihl saw is excellent bang for buck. About $260AUD 14” bar. Battery powered Stihl equivalent is $599 for a 14” saw, about $300 for 1 battery & $170 for a charger. Well over $1000AUD to go battery powered if you want a bar bigger than 12” Go petrol 👌💪
You are all a bunch of rookies. Cut half way through then pull the saw out and cut a thin wedge at the top of the cut and tap it down into the slot. Stab the saw back in under the wedge and finish the cut with zero pinching. I have been a tree climber for 38 years and climb every day. Trust me.
Thanks for that tip/method. I’d never seen that done ✅. Most people watching CZcams clips on how to do things are rookies including myself. My saw is lucky if it sees 12-15hrs of cutting per year to get my firewood for the season. Over cautious - yeah probably. Nowhere was it stated that we’re all professional loggers 👍🍻🇦🇺
I’d be interested to hear why? Seriously. I’ve cut trailers of smaller wood that doesn’t need splitting or maybe only one split. Small wood doesn’t stack as well, doesn’t burn as long, Takes longer to fill a trailer, uses more fuel, takes 100 + cuts compared to 12. That’s my experience anyhow…
Should he just leave it there to rot? I’d rather cut one big tree than several small ones. They split and stack a lot better. But I’m a small time burner, not a producer. And I cut what ever standing dead or wind fall I find on our land. I don’t cut healthy standing trees. I deal with whatever nature gives me, big or small.
Holy hell, not a single word but yet you made your point. I wish everyone was like that. Less is better
Great to see someone using all the necessary PPE gear
He's not though. When using a helmet with a face shield you need to wearing safety glasses under the face shield
Am 72...and have pinched my share of bars. One thing I always do when cutting my long, straight, and big trees, in prep before I start slicing it up, I lay some smaller pieces of the cut limbs under the larger trunk. It sometimes helps to keep the large trunk off the ground as I am cutting it up. That also sometimes makes cutting the compression-side first a bit easier and might help keep the bar out of the dirt. And yes...a wedge is the way to go.
Hey Jerry, yes I do the same. Several bits of timber under the length of log - helps keep dirt off the log & chain sharp for longer 👌
I've been using this tip all week and boy-o it's great. Wedges = control = safety.
The correct way is to cut the compression side first. Then the tension side. You will have to determine which is which. It totally depends on how the log is laying. If in doubt use a wedge. Westcoast logger with 44 years of experience. I learned a long time ago how not to get pinched.
it worked
Question.... how do you cut bigger logs with a small chainsaw? Do you start vertically like this guy did?
Masterclass, thank you for this! The vertical cut to start is what I’m learning makes all the difference, no matter the size of the log.
Thanks dude and also the comments! Learned a lot!
The easiest way to cut that log, WITHOUT ANY PINCHING OF THE BAR, OR THE NEED FOR ANY WEDGES, is you cut down form the top until just as it starts to pinch, or you see the "gap" start to close... then here's the trick... you then come up from the bottom, BUT your cut should be just a bar width to the left or right of the top cut. You chose the side depending on which way it is tilting. Tilting to the right... bottom cut to the left of top cut and visa versa. You will never ever pinch a bar again. If it's level like here... doesn't matter which way you choose. 👌
Thanks DT 👍.
I was just a bit over cautious maybe adding wedges 🤔.
That last bottom cut was maybe 10mm or 3/8” to the side of the down cut.
I suppose when the log separates, it falls not interfering with the bar, seems fine with firewood but won't the saw mills frown on a staggered cut?
Lots of good tips here in comments, I have been sawing for coming up on fourty years, firewood not pro, and learning every day out. Stay Humble.. nice video.., in the early yrs., I never used wedges , I do now, so...you learn quick if you want to keep sawing and not get bad. Carry on.
Thanks to everyone.
Nicely done. Thank you.
If you don't want to cut a cord every 20minutes you can try all these diff. ways. In time you can feel the point of pinch, pull it out and upcut. I would be cutting my 5th one as 2nd wedge was put in. 40 yrs. of timbering, high production firewood and never used a wedge.
See that’s 40 years & high production experience. A lot of blokes just cut their own firewood to get thru winter & then don’t touch a saw for 10 months.
Because of lack of experience/use I’ve pinched bars a few times & it’s a pain in the arse. Since using a couple of wedges, I haven’t jammed one. That’s saved me a heap of time.
@@Party-Marty you do what works for you bud.
You can use a technique called "Reaming the cut". If the log has top bind, cut down a ways and before it pinches, pull yer saw out toward you, not out the top. Rev it and bore back into the cut, not the top. Cut down, rinse and repeat a few times till the top kerf comes closed. Once that happens, just finish the cut. Can be used for bottom bind too. Wallyo.
Thanks for that 👍. I’ll give it a go. Might have to look it up myself too.
Cheers 🍻🇦🇺
Yeah he is quite correct on that and the start of pinching can be felt in time to pull it out after sometime cutting. I also think if you don't have a sharp chain and set up saw to just keep zinging through it and you need work the saw to get through, it will deprive you of attaining that needed feeling of pinch start. You couldn't notch a tree with the chains I make for producing firewood, you actually need to hold back on the saw vs. many who need work the saw through. I have pic.'s of racing my 064 against the newer (back then) 066 with one in each hand. Only because of my chains that I could just lay them on the log, crack them open and they eat themselves through. And for anyone, I pushed limits all the time but always wore my chaps.
@@Party-Marty Look in Jerry Beranek's book, Fundamentals of Basic Tree Work.
I've never once pinched a bar on a log that big.
But I've never cut one that big either :))))
Also got a very sharp chain . !
You had some serious chips coming off that saw, you made short work of that large fallen tree trunk. ..... Bravo !!
Cheers mate 👍. Stihl 2in1 file does a mint job at keeping the chain cutting great 🤘
@@Party-Marty best file I ever purchased. I have one for each saw. The pferd is a little cheaper than the branded ones
With all the different opinions surfacing how to do this cut, I've come to recognize that you know have done it well enough if you walk away intact when it's over, with your saw in-hand, of course. Love my 461 magnum. Great saw for bore cuts. Keep it up, PartyMarty.
Cheers Ryan,
Many different options for different situations. I’m not a logger - just a weekend warrior 😜
Usually bush alone so aim for the safest option, not always the quickest or most efficient as I’m never in a hurry cutting wood 🤙🇦🇺
@@Party-Marty one should never ever hurry when cutting wood , most incidents happens when people starts rushing ( in any profession !)
Woukd have done the exact same without the wedges. Use the wedges to keep cutting from top down right through the bottom
I would have started my cut at the bottom as the log was not in the dirt. Cut about 5 or 9 inches from the bottom up. Than pull your saw out and start cutting from the the top. It will go much faster cutting rounds or cutting logs.
Or reverse and cut the top until it starts to pinch. Than finish the cut from the bottom up. Way faster than using wedges.
I’ll give that a go 👍. Just playing it safe. Just for my firewood so a little extra time don’t hurt 🍻
a bit different ; as the trunks compression/tension lays 99% in the horizontal line , my first cut, if there are doubts, will allways a vertical one till halfway the trunk ( vertical as in the video 0.30 -0.34) and then proceed as your doings
Good effort. Have you tried doing a bore cut about halfway down then cutting down? Then finish the cut straight up.
G’day Paul, never done these bore or plunge cuts.
I’ll read up on them before going gung-ho into a log & having a massive kickback 😖
Nice job you made it look smooth
Correction: Cutting a big log without pinching the bar (to make furniture) x[firewood] 😀
Dude! You do know how to party! Thats good times!
Sometimes i just cut upward from the bottom when it wants to pinch the bar.
I never argue with success,
Clever! Thanks…
wearin them chaps, smart man
Thanks!
Nice job but there is a method of cutting wood used by a sawier on channel Garden and Forest, where you don't need wedges. Effective and safe -for you and your chain.
Thanks Marek 👍
I’ll go have a look. Always keen to learn new(to me) methods for different situations ✌️🇦🇺
Next time cut down only , pound wedges as soon as they fit then just cut down more right through the bottom it won't pinch ur saw, or do 2 cuts like u did without wedges
What size and model is your Stihl saw? How old is that wood?
G’day Dave, 461 Magnum (76.5cc) 20”bar. Tree didn’t have leaves & the spindly twigs were gone but main trunk was still fairly green. Maybe it’d come down 12 months prior?
Just bought my 1st Stihl; a MS 180. I was just outside using your technique. So thank you
@@folse12 Ms180c was my first Stihl too. I’ve still got it & still goes great - it’s maybe 12-13yrs old now
That's a really grabby chain you got there...
Yeah, bit much off the depth rakers 😕
Those Fiskars axes are wicked good splitting axes. There isn't and genius geometry going on there but a really great head.
Yes, they’re a good workhorse.
I got the X27 & the Maul.
@@Party-Marty Yup, the X27 out chopped an 8lb splitting maul I bought, and was slightly, but clearly a better splitter than my Collins 4lb axe. It just doesn't look as good as it is.
Wedges shouldn't be necessary if you do your cuts right
True but a lot of us only cut every few months & haven’t mastered everything😉
I just like to have a little insurance in case I get things wrong 😁
@@Party-Marty I understand & even if you do it all the time you sometimes get your bar pinched
Sthil had to undercut😎
Can you recommend a "Really Good Chain Saw for a 2-3 time a year use... Much smaller Trees then in this video. But still want a good heavy duty one.
If you're not using it that often or for long periods of time, electric is the way to go. Much less maintenance and complexity. Stihl and Ego make good 18" models that will serve you well.
I’m not sure if you mean electric or battery powered 🤔
An entry level ms170 petrol Stihl saw is excellent bang for buck. About $260AUD 14” bar.
Battery powered Stihl equivalent is $599 for a 14” saw, about $300 for 1 battery & $170 for a charger.
Well over $1000AUD to go battery powered if you want a bar bigger than 12”
Go petrol 👌💪
Stihl MS250/251 are a great all rounder 18” saw that’ll tackle most jobs, just not as fast as the bigger saws.
What kind of chain were you using, it cuts very well.
Can’t remember, either semi chisel or full chisel Stihl chain.
2in1 sharpener keeps a good edge on the chain
@@Party-Marty sure is sharp. cut like a hot knife through butter.
Keep practicing. If you ant worried about time your doing just fine.
Cheers Erik 🍻🇦🇺
Wish my sharpening method was better, that chain really eats.
I only ever use the Stihl 2in1 file tool.
I’ll whip up a little clip how I use it. There’s a few vids up using it that make me cringe 🫣
@@Party-Marty nice I use my file freehand, and a rake ht gauge.
So theoretically you could probably do this with just an axe or a couple hatchets
In theory I could even train up some beavers to chew through it for me, but thought it’d be more practical to use a chainsaw 🤙
Have an awesome day ✌️
@@Party-Marty 🤣 Good one boss
👍👍👍🙏
echo 7310 vs stihl ?
For a bit of fun that could be interesting.
I haven’t looked for a comparison video.
You are all a bunch of rookies.
Cut half way through then pull the saw out and cut a thin wedge at the top of the cut and tap it down into the slot. Stab the saw back in under the wedge and finish the cut with zero pinching.
I have been a tree climber for 38 years and climb every day. Trust me.
Thanks for that tip/method. I’d never seen that done ✅.
Most people watching CZcams clips on how to do things are rookies including myself.
My saw is lucky if it sees 12-15hrs of cutting per year to get my firewood for the season. Over cautious - yeah probably.
Nowhere was it stated that we’re all professional loggers 👍🍻🇦🇺
cutting big fire wood logs is a waste of time and energy
I’d be interested to hear why? Seriously.
I’ve cut trailers of smaller wood that doesn’t need splitting or maybe only one split. Small wood doesn’t stack as well, doesn’t burn as long, Takes longer to fill a trailer, uses more fuel, takes 100 + cuts compared to 12.
That’s my experience anyhow…
Should he just leave it there to rot? I’d rather cut one big tree than several small ones. They split and stack a lot better.
But I’m a small time burner, not a producer. And I cut what ever standing dead or wind fall I find on our land. I don’t cut healthy standing trees. I deal with whatever nature gives me, big or small.
@jonesy doesn’t have any muscles or a big enough saw.
Noice 👍
Thanks Dan 🤙
Be sure to like & subscribe 😜🇦🇺🥳
Just another reason to burn coal