“Grinder and paint make me the welder I ain’t “ AVE. Check your collets I found swarf left in mine from manufacturing. Some of it just need a pick to get out, others needed some work with jewelry files to cut out. Thanks for sharing. Great work.
Gday, the collet chuck looks great, the runout is possibly the collet as well, I brought a D1-6 ER40 collet chuck and I use it more then I ever thought I was going to, I really enjoyed the video mate, top job, Cheers
Thank you Matty. I watched a few of your videos on the collet chuck and collet block builds which were helpful. Of course I give credit where it is due and referenced you (and others) in the comments.
Nice work, brilliant result to say you had to re-chuck the workpiece to machine the external thread. I've heard it mentioned when checking an internal taper with an actual collet only, the collet needs to be loaded with the exact size pin or cutter shank for an accurate reading. This prevents the collet from compressing unevenly. Maybe that could be the cause of your run-out. Enjoyed watching. Tony
Thanks for watching. That 25mm bar that I was testing is a snug fit in the collet. Just thinking about it now, I could have used a boring bar for the outside thread. That would have given me the reach to cut the thread with the collet chuck still screwed onto the spindle. A lesson learned for next time.
Thank s for the video. I needed it to stop lamenting about my old Heavy 10. I often wondered if it would nice to have the large, flat , T Slot Cross Slides like I see here on YT. When you were forced to remount your work in your 4 Jaw I thought "WTF"! This totally defeats the benefits of turning and then using a chuck on the same lathe that made it. My old girl has no problem getting a cutter right up to the face of its own Head Stock! Hell, I think I can even get to the rear of my smaller face plates! I will never bad mouth her again!🥰 Wakodahatchee Chris
Yeah, a machine shop closing down in Dury so I got two lengths at a good price (and 1 length of 50mm as well). That one I was dragging was half a length, but it is still heavy.
The chatter could be that the cutting point has far to much stickout, you only need slightly more than the depth of your thread. Overall a nice job that has me thinking about one for myself rather than buying one and having to fix it(truing up) I mounted my dremel using the nose threads screwed into a square then welding the square onto a bar that fits my QCTP, I also put a steady screw at the rear end to help stop any vibration.
Thanks for the video. You might want to see Joe Pieczynski's method of reverse threading with the bit upside down. I like the way that you checked the fit while keeping the part in the chuck.
Apart from the minor issues it came out rather nice, I do wish I could cut threads on my little homemade lathe sometimes as it does restrict what I can make. I'm hopeful I'll be back to making stuff shortly 👍
It is good to hear from you and that you will be making stuff again soon. The issue with my lathe is that I only have metric threading gears for it. That is an issue for when I need to cut imperial threads which I don't have a die for.
Thanks for watching. Yes, you are absolutely right. I did think of that as well but I had already finished the collet chuck by then. Its one of those times when the obvious answer comes to you when you are out walking after the fact.
@@davidzeak8667 Thanks. Mark has a lot of great videos. I really need to follow his coating techniques. Like him, steel parts and tools rust easily where I live.
Looks like it turned out well! At first I thought you would just mill flats rather than the drilled holes for a wrench. If the taper finish was not real smooth will the collet still pull with the nut or maybe stick in the taper?Maybe it snaps well in the nut.
Could you measure the 8 deg (16 deg) angle? Is it leaning towards + or - tolerance? Angles of inner tapers should be smaller -> compression takes place at the front first.
I believe the 8 degrees needs to be accurate. Others who have made ER collet chucks etc. mention that the compound slide scale is a good start, then use an indicator to fine tune the angle.
“Grinder and paint make me the welder I ain’t “ AVE. Check your collets I found swarf left in mine from manufacturing. Some of it just need a pick to get out, others needed some work with jewelry files to cut out. Thanks for sharing. Great work.
I love that AVE guy, he is so funny. Thanks for the tip.
Gday, the collet chuck looks great, the runout is possibly the collet as well, I brought a D1-6 ER40 collet chuck and I use it more then I ever thought I was going to, I really enjoyed the video mate, top job, Cheers
Thank you Matty. I watched a few of your videos on the collet chuck and collet block builds which were helpful. Of course I give credit where it is due and referenced you (and others) in the comments.
Nice work, brilliant result to say you had to re-chuck the workpiece to machine the external thread. I've heard it mentioned when checking an internal taper with an actual collet only, the collet needs to be loaded with the exact size pin or cutter shank for an accurate reading. This prevents the collet from compressing unevenly. Maybe that could be the cause of your run-out. Enjoyed watching. Tony
Thanks for watching. That 25mm bar that I was testing is a snug fit in the collet. Just thinking about it now, I could have used a boring bar for the outside thread. That would have given me the reach to cut the thread with the collet chuck still screwed onto the spindle. A lesson learned for next time.
Thank s for the video. I needed it to stop lamenting about my old Heavy 10. I often wondered if it would nice to have the large, flat , T Slot Cross Slides like I see here on YT. When you were forced to remount your work in your 4 Jaw I thought "WTF"! This totally defeats the benefits of turning and then using a chuck on the same lathe that made it. My old girl has no problem getting a cutter right up to the face of its own Head Stock! Hell, I think I can even get to the rear of my smaller face plates! I will never bad mouth her again!🥰
Wakodahatchee Chris
Hi, thanks for watching and your comments.
Speaking for myself, anything you do qualifies! Love the frankenspanner.
Thanks, I sue it does. As long as the content is getting out there and others can learn from it, it does not matter what it is.
Man oh man ……. That came out fantastic. You’ve inspired me to make one. 👍👍😎👍👍
Thank you!
Some chunky pieces of steel there Mr JP.
Yeah, a machine shop closing down in Dury so I got two lengths at a good price (and 1 length of 50mm as well). That one I was dragging was half a length, but it is still heavy.
The chatter could be that the cutting point has far to much stickout, you only need slightly more than the depth of your thread. Overall a nice job that has me thinking about one for myself rather than buying one and having to fix it(truing up)
I mounted my dremel using the nose threads screwed into a square then welding the square onto a bar that fits my QCTP, I also put a steady screw at the rear end to help stop any vibration.
Thanks for watching and your comments.
Thanks for the video. You might want to see Joe Pieczynski's method of reverse threading with the bit upside down. I like the way that you checked the fit while keeping the part in the chuck.
Thanks you. Yes, I have seen Joe's threading technique. I have learnt a lot from his videos.
Nice work, enjoyed watching , look forward to more in future, thanks for sharing
No problem. Thanks for watching.
Apart from the minor issues it came out rather nice, I do wish I could cut threads on my little homemade lathe sometimes as it does restrict what I can make. I'm hopeful I'll be back to making stuff shortly 👍
It is good to hear from you and that you will be making stuff again soon.
The issue with my lathe is that I only have metric threading gears for it. That is an issue for when I need to cut imperial threads which I don't have a die for.
Really nice job, especially on such a short "lead time"!
Thank you very much.
Enjoyed…nice build
Thanks 👍
Frankenspanner! 😆
got you a new sub 😉
Awesome! Thank you!
I think a good level on top surface would also work ? Same as a ruler for tool centre height. Great vids thanks.
Thanks for your suggestion.
Could you have used a boring bar to cut the OD threads,being the apron wouldn't reach?
Thanks for watching. Yes, you are absolutely right. I did think of that as well but I had already finished the collet chuck by then. Its one of those times when the obvious answer comes to you when you are out walking after the fact.
I completely understand. Been there done that. Keep up the good work. I found you from watching Mark Presling.
@@davidzeak8667 Thanks. Mark has a lot of great videos. I really need to follow his coating techniques. Like him, steel parts and tools rust easily where I live.
Looks like it turned out well! At first I thought you would just mill flats rather than the drilled holes for a wrench.
If the taper finish was not real smooth will the collet still pull with the nut or maybe stick in the taper?Maybe it snaps well in the nut.
Hi, thanks for your comments. Yes, flats would work as well.
Would some cutting oil have helped......!?
May be. But, I think i would still need to run the lathe slow.
Veey information video
Thanks
සුපිරියක් මචං
සුපිරියක් මචං
Could you measure the 8 deg (16 deg) angle? Is it leaning towards + or - tolerance?
Angles of inner tapers should be smaller -> compression takes place at the front first.
I believe the 8 degrees needs to be accurate. Others who have made ER collet chucks etc. mention that the compound slide scale is a good start, then use an indicator to fine tune the angle.
Where do you get your steel?
I got this steel from a metalwork shop that was closing down. They advertised it on TradeMe with is NZ's major auction site.
👍👍👍
👌
How far out was it in the end
It was hard to tell as I use a .001" indicator. But, it was about the same as what was showing on the outside - may be a few tenths?