You've made working on CR-Vs so much easier and saved so many of us a lot of money and probably a higher quality of care for our rides. Totally feel like I do a better job on my own equipment than others because it's mine.
thank you, the car is getting old and it’s not worth the quotes from mechanics. Videos like this makes it possible for me to maintain and fix my baby crv and also learn a lot at the same time
So good to watch someone who knows their craft. It has helped me appreciate how good and practical first gen CRV is. And the confidence to fix things instead of writing the vehicle off because of costs. You’re a legend. Cheers, Dave
Dude, this channel is so damn good. I'm honestly excited for the work I'm going to put into my crv in the years to come. It's a work vehicle, so it's low pressure. Great for jumping right in and learning on. Keep up the good work!
What helped the most is knowing that their is a alen key for the sway bar end links, My nlower control arms are really bad more so at the strut mount area. Having the vehilce on a flat surface to then tighten bolts and nuts is a good sugestion as well. Nothin has fully been replaced on my 01 1st gen crv. Now i have to replace all worn out damaged original parts.
I’ve been working on my RD1 off and on last few weeks doing as much as I can myself with the help of my mechanics shop. These are valuable resources for the jobs so I can be ready to tackle them properly and efficient since I don’t have hours to spend tinkering.
@@hondaresource if you get a moment I have a question, the CRV has 220,000 on odometer the automatic transmission fluid is dark but doesn’t smell burnt it seems like it’s shifting okay haven’t got it totally warmed up as I’m doing some front end repair. Should I risk it for the biscuit and try to drain and fill with new fluid or is it a mistake to disturb the earlier Honda Automatics.
@@CaptainTexas92 eh, that's a tough call. My understanding is that it's fine to drain and refill. Flushing old fluid is where problems come in because it picks up contaminants and stops up the filter. But again, do as you see fit.
Great vid, excellent to-the-point narration. However, I had a BIG problem with the sway bar link: the nut was hard coming off and I stripped out the 4.5 mm Allen wrench hole in the link stud. So a couple of suggestions: 1) before removing the nut, rent a thread restorer kit at your local auto parts store and clean that thread as good as you can. 2) If you strip out the 4.5 mm Allen wrench hole, a 3/16 Allen wrench is a smidgeon larger but will fit the 4.5 mm hole just fine. Other than that, my experience was a dream just like the video.
@@hondaresource Been there. I tried that first except I didn't have a vise grip that had thin enough width jaws and I couldn't grab it with the one I had.
I have a 2000 cr-v just installed a b20 with 60,000 miles on it and changed all the good stuff with it . running great been watching your videos and they've helped me out a lot. Now it's time to replacing all the front end parts Half are worn out so i'll just replace them all. Putting the car on jack stands is getting old. 11 weeks ago i had a full knee replacement working on the floor is not that easy any more. I really like your car jack. l am trying to find a car jack like that one. Any info on your jack would be great . Keep up the great work on your videos.
Thanks man for encourage me to change the lower control arm, i bought them 1 year and half ago, and i just put them on after seen your video, easy but took me 3 hours for just one, because it hard working under a jacked car, no much space under the car, but you will still need a inmpact wrenche to remove those three bolts faster, the short bolt come out harder than the long ine, if it wasent for powerful cordless impact milwauke wrench, it willtook me like one hour just to renove that bolt.
Thanks for the advice and suggestions as I live in Africa and the Bush mechanic mess and screw up the cars, used to live in minesota were you can buy the parts cheap
I have an 2000 Honda CRV with 135k now. I was planned to sale it, but I decide to keep it after I saw your video. Great little mule! I dragged my neighbor Ford F150 off the mud hole...with it.
3 weeks ago I bought a 2000 CR-V front wheel drive, not the 4 wheel drive. So that alone will save me head aches. I could care less for the 4 x4 since I already have it on a 4runner. I just wanted a 4-banger gass saver. I got it cheap because the whole front suspension is shot. The guy who sold it to me thought he could put some new struts, & it would fix the banging & clocking noises, & horrible steering. The guy flips cars so he knows exactly what that junk needs, & since no one dared to buy it, I really low balled him down to a fair value, in comparison to what he wanted to sell it, but for which no one dared getting into such a mess. I'm just waiting for the Amazon delivery of the whole front suspension parts. It will be a sweet ride once I'm done with it. Here in Southern California, it's been 95°F on average so I will need to vacuum the AC system again & recharge it. The highest setting doesn't seem to blow air at a fast speed so hopefully I don't have to replace the AC compressor. In conclusion, that's why I'm here researching how to replace the front suspension. I'm just glad there's no transfer case to remove, as well as the exhaust pipe at the manifold. Oh & I'm also replacing the oil pan motor with a Felpro rubber seal, not the cheap cork material version that needs RTV gasket sealer. The blue rubber felpro gasket is a stand alone, simply install, & torque as per the instructions. Plus it had the clips to hold up in place.
@@hondaresource Hello. Just discovered that my 24 year old 1999 CR-V has original timing belt from factory with 193k... By chance, could you give me ball park figure on how much it might cost to replace belt only or how much to do entire timing belt job complete with water pump, pulley and seals? Thank you so much in advance...
Awesome , never give it a thought to place car back on ground to let bushings settle b4 tightening 😊 brilliant advice, oh and lifting gear box slightly to get that long bolt too 😊thank you sir
You helped me a lot bro , just did ball joints, upper , lower control arms, cv axels , inner, outer tie rods and timing belt is next. The ball joints in the freezer saved my ass haha. Thanks man
Amazing video, sadly found there was subframe damage from previous owner, looking at replacing the whole subframe (and while I am in there new P/S rack just for safety after 24 years)
Excellent content as always! I'm looking at doing LCA's and wondered if it would be a better option to go for a full front end kit? I'm browsing Rock Auto and see a Mevotech Supreme front end kit for ~350. My other option is building the front end over time with Moog parts - looking at the front LCA's and ball joints for about 200. Would you have an obvious preference? Thanks again for all the in depth and straightforward content - I'm working on a 99 EX manual with 304k and looking to get it to over 500 with all your help.
@@hondaresource yeah I just replaced the struts in my 1999 crv. Surprisingly they came of pretty easy and I did use my old 1/2 inch snap on impact which made the job way easier. It’s my project car. It’s got a lot of front end banging going on so i ordered upper control arm with ball joint and lower control arm and lower ball joint From eBay I have bushings and stabilizer links for front end already Hopefully I won’t twist off any bolts. I changed the back struts and twisted off both bolts so had to find replacements at hardware store.
It feels good doesnt it! I did balljoints and tie rods! Felt accomplished until I went to get aligned and they told me they wouldn't do it because my LCA was fucked
The part of the frame that the back of these lower control arms connect to- literally the piece that that bracket bolts to in the back (3 bolts) of that control arm…do you know if that is replaceable? That piece has cracked apart on me and causing my passenger side lower control arm to not be snug back there. It has wiggle room now which I can see is not good. Weight of front of vehicle has already caused that large washer in back to bend and has started beating up the bushing. I replaced these control arms only about 20,000 miles ago so they’re not bad but my problem now lies in the piece that holds the back of the control arm. I’m afraid this is not an easily replaceable part but wondering if it’s even replaceable at all?! Otherwise all I could do is fabricate some steel and weld on for reinforcement if I want this thing to last any longer
Great video! and I don’t even have a Crv yet!!! Two questions in your opinion which crv do you think is better gen 1 or gen 2.5? Also what’s the name of that lift?
Thanks for all your helpful videos. Question on the lower control arms- I replaced mine over the weekend, and all went well. However, the alignment is now off (pulls to the left, and steering wheel no longer centered). I did also replace both CV axels, and the sway bar bushings. So my question is, would you expect it to need an alignment? I did not disturb the steering arms in any way. Just concerned that something might be off?
Unfortunately, you always need an alignment after doing this kind of work. Small changes in part length, bushing wear, etc. will impact your alignment. It's a good idea to budget an alignment into the cost of steering/suspension repairs
Great explanation. Instead of tightening the control arm bolts with the car on the ground, could you measure the axle to fender distance with the car on the ground, then jack up the suspension to the same measurement with the car in the air and then tighten the nuts/bolts?
Just bought a 97 CR-V and noticed that on my gravel driveway there a little bit of knocking in the front and rear suspension could it be sway bar links or tie rod end links or both.
5:06 What’s the resolution if the bolt on the control arm bracket just keep on spinning? When I remove the short bolt It wont come off. Just spinning. Thanks
My 2000 crv is making a whining noise when your moving, it's not coming from the engine, you can put it in neutral and turn it off and its still there. This is a 4 wheel drive, could it be the transmission rear transfer case?
When I hit my rubber hammer on the bolt where it mounts the strut fork to Lca, it sounds like loose change. Would it be the bushing damaged or just not tightened enough?
Does the bracket that has an arrow always have to tighten it in a directional (the arrow towards the front) way? What if it is tightened in the other way? Thank you,
Proforged makes good aftermarket suspension parts. I have their outer tie rod ends and lower ball joints on my '98 and I've been very satisfied with them. I've read about too many horror stories in regards to MOOG ball joints over the last couple of years so keep that in mind....MOOG ain't what it used to be.
Bro do one for the abs light please 🤞😩.. have an ABS light been trying to get rid of it new axle.. new sensor like goes away then breaks feel popping (air)then light and then brakes feel normal again scanner says driver side abs sensor clean the original put back on light stays on completely but brakes feel good 😑🤔🤔🤔🤔
Generally the parts that wear on these are lower ball joints, inner tie rods, and sway bar end links. Occasionally I see outer tie rods, upper control arms, sway bar bushings, etc
What brand front lower control arms do you recommend? I’ve read a lot about aftermarket bushings being horrid on the front lower arms, even with mevotech or Delphi.
I’ve been upgrading some stuff on my RD1 and currently in the process of dropping the engine and subframe but I made the mistake and pulled all the subframe bolts out and I’m having issues aligning the bolts with holes. I have to replace the cv axels so would taking the control arms off help moving the subframe easier??
@@hondaresource well I didn’t take the control arms off but I replaced the cv axels and upper and lower ball joint’s along with the tie rods so in the process the subframe was easier to move around. Still hearing a clunking sound so I will be checking/replacing the control arms hopefully that fixes the issue
You've made working on CR-Vs so much easier and saved so many of us a lot of money and probably a higher quality of care for our rides. Totally feel like I do a better job on my own equipment than others because it's mine.
thank you, the car is getting old and it’s not worth the quotes from mechanics. Videos like this makes it possible for me to maintain and fix my baby crv and also learn a lot at the same time
So good to watch someone who knows their craft. It has helped me appreciate how good and practical first gen CRV is. And the confidence to fix things instead of writing the vehicle off because of costs. You’re a legend.
Cheers,
Dave
Thank you for the kind words
@@hondaresourcemi crv have code p0325 knock sensor do you have video how to fix autozone o O'Reilly don't have the part
Dude, this channel is so damn good. I'm honestly excited for the work I'm going to put into my crv in the years to come. It's a work vehicle, so it's low pressure. Great for jumping right in and learning on. Keep up the good work!
I'm glad to have you here
What helped the most is knowing that their is a alen key for the sway bar end links, My nlower control arms are really bad more so at the strut mount area. Having the vehilce on a flat surface to then tighten bolts and nuts is a good sugestion as well. Nothin has fully been replaced on my 01 1st gen crv. Now i have to replace all worn out damaged original parts.
I’ve been working on my RD1 off and on last few weeks doing as much as I can myself with the help of my mechanics shop. These are valuable resources for the jobs so I can be ready to tackle them properly and efficient since I don’t have hours to spend tinkering.
Awesome man, they are good vehicles. Take care of them and they will take care of you.
@@hondaresource if you get a moment I have a question, the CRV has 220,000 on odometer the automatic transmission fluid is dark but doesn’t smell burnt it seems like it’s shifting okay haven’t got it totally warmed up as I’m doing some front end repair. Should I risk it for the biscuit and try to drain and fill with new fluid or is it a mistake to disturb the earlier Honda Automatics.
@@CaptainTexas92 eh, that's a tough call. My understanding is that it's fine to drain and refill. Flushing old fluid is where problems come in because it picks up contaminants and stops up the filter. But again, do as you see fit.
@@hondaresource makes sense I just know late 90’s early 2000’s Honda automatics are really touchy.
Your channel has and will save me money for years to come. Excellent work you do.
Thank you man
Great vid, excellent to-the-point narration. However, I had a BIG problem with the sway bar link: the nut was hard coming off and I stripped out the 4.5 mm Allen wrench hole in the link stud. So a couple of suggestions: 1) before removing the nut, rent a thread restorer kit at your local auto parts store and clean that thread as good as you can. 2) If you strip out the 4.5 mm Allen wrench hole, a 3/16 Allen wrench is a smidgeon larger but will fit the 4.5 mm hole just fine. Other than that, my experience was a dream just like the video.
They can be aggravating at times. I usually put vice grips on the back side of it between the linkage and sway bar.
@@hondaresource Been there. I tried that first except I didn't have a vise grip that had thin enough width jaws and I couldn't grab it with the one I had.
I have a 2000 cr-v just installed a b20 with 60,000 miles on it and changed all the good stuff with it . running great been watching your videos and they've helped me out a lot. Now it's time to replacing all the front end parts Half are worn out so i'll just replace them all. Putting the car on jack stands is getting old. 11 weeks ago i had a full knee replacement working on the floor is not that easy any more. I really like your car jack. l am trying to find a car jack like that one. Any info on your jack would be great . Keep up the great work on your videos.
Thanks man for encourage me to change the lower control arm, i bought them 1 year and half ago, and i just put them on after seen your video, easy but took me 3 hours for just one, because it hard working under a jacked car, no much space under the car, but you will still need a inmpact wrenche to remove those three bolts faster, the short bolt come out harder than the long ine, if it wasent for powerful cordless impact milwauke wrench, it willtook me like one hour just to renove that bolt.
Glad you got it fixed up!
You should consider doing a rack and pinion replacement video on first Gen crv
I will next time I do one
Thanks for the advice and suggestions as I live in Africa and the Bush mechanic mess and screw up the cars, used to live in minesota were you can buy the parts cheap
I have an 2000 Honda CRV with 135k now. I was planned to sale it, but I decide to keep it after I saw your video. Great little mule! I dragged my neighbor Ford F150 off the mud hole...with it.
Dude you make this look super easy. It's a pain in the ass when you don't use a lift.
I did one on my crv in the woods lol
3 weeks ago I bought a 2000 CR-V front wheel drive, not the 4 wheel drive. So that alone will save me head aches. I could care less for the 4 x4 since I already have it on a 4runner. I just wanted a 4-banger gass saver. I got it cheap because the whole front suspension is shot. The guy who sold it to me thought he could put some new struts, & it would fix the banging & clocking noises, & horrible steering. The guy flips cars so he knows exactly what that junk needs, & since no one dared to buy it, I really low balled him down to a fair value, in comparison to what he wanted to sell it, but for which no one dared getting into such a mess. I'm just waiting for the Amazon delivery of the whole front suspension parts. It will be a sweet ride once I'm done with it. Here in Southern California, it's been 95°F on average so I will need to vacuum the AC system again & recharge it. The highest setting doesn't seem to blow air at a fast speed so hopefully I don't have to replace the AC compressor. In conclusion, that's why I'm here researching how to replace the front suspension. I'm just glad there's no transfer case to remove, as well as the exhaust pipe at the manifold. Oh & I'm also replacing the oil pan motor with a Felpro rubber seal, not the cheap cork material version that needs RTV gasket sealer. The blue rubber felpro gasket is a stand alone, simply install, & torque as per the instructions. Plus it had the clips to hold up in place.
Fabulous video. Absolutely excellent display of tools needed in the beginning.
Thank you
@@hondaresource Hello. Just discovered that my 24 year old 1999 CR-V has original timing belt from factory with 193k... By chance, could you give me ball park figure on how much it might cost to replace belt only or how much to do entire timing belt job complete with water pump, pulley and seals? Thank you so much in advance...
Awesome , never give it a thought to place car back on ground to let bushings settle b4 tightening 😊 brilliant advice, oh and lifting gear box slightly to get that long bolt too 😊thank you sir
Glad to help
You helped me a lot bro , just did ball joints, upper , lower control arms, cv axels , inner, outer tie rods and timing belt is next. The ball joints in the freezer saved my ass haha. Thanks man
Heck yeah man
My lower control arm shock bolt ripped the rubber bushing out while doing suspension. I assume its time to do this. Thanks for all the videos.
Yep!
the only thing im worried about mine is Rust. Makes an easy 1-2hr job into an 4-6hr job.
For sure. I'm glad I'm in the south
Amazing video, sadly found there was subframe damage from previous owner, looking at replacing the whole subframe (and while I am in there new P/S rack just for safety after 24 years)
Sorry to hear that, hopefully you get it fixed up!
You’re a good teacher. Thank you 🙏
Really appreciated this video just finished doing mine! Thanks for the video.
Awesome man!
got my rd1 2000Model last year your video keeps on helping me do DIY things for my vee
Heck yeah man👍
Thank you for sharing you knowledge.....I have a 1998 crv that needs lower an upper contr arms , you gonna save me lots of money my friend.
Glad to help
This is excellent, wish I had a hoist at home
Definitely helps a lot
Most of wrenching is the lift.
great job you make it look easy ,gives me confidence !
Sweet vid. Thanks for the detailed work!
Thank you, I just did this job on my 99. Your video was very helpful.
I'm glad you found it helpful🤟
Very informative bro, am getting mine change today, in my backyard.....
Heck yeah!
muchas gracias amigo, saludos desde Honduras.
Thank you
Great tutorial.
Great tutorial. 10:58
Excellent content as always! I'm looking at doing LCA's and wondered if it would be a better option to go for a full front end kit? I'm browsing Rock Auto and see a Mevotech Supreme front end kit for ~350. My other option is building the front end over time with Moog parts - looking at the front LCA's and ball joints for about 200. Would you have an obvious preference? Thanks again for all the in depth and straightforward content - I'm working on a 99 EX manual with 304k and looking to get it to over 500 with all your help.
Eh, it really just depends. I like to piece mine together so that I can opt for better ball joints
Thanks my friend. Helps a lot. Mine is rusty Minnesota winter and salt. 🙏
I'm sorry man! No way I would work on cars if I lived up North.
@@hondaresource yeah I just replaced the struts in my 1999 crv. Surprisingly they came of pretty easy and I did use my old 1/2 inch snap on impact which made the job way easier. It’s my project car. It’s got a lot of front end banging going on so i ordered upper control arm with ball joint and lower control arm and lower ball joint From eBay I have bushings and stabilizer links for front end already Hopefully I won’t twist off any bolts. I changed the back struts and twisted off both bolts so had to find replacements at hardware store.
Thank you sir for the great video , you saved me a ton of $$$ that would of been expensive even as old as the car is ,, appreciate you 😎👍🏻🤠
Glad it helped
Great video. Excellent info and editing. Thanks :)
Thank you man, I'm trying to get better with the whole filming process.
After watching your video, I'm confident I can handle this job.
Heck yeah!
Thanks for the DIY videos Brother, YOUDAMAN !!!
My pleasure!!
OK. It's not a set of carbs for a 400f SS, but I will see about giving this a try.
Thanks for the great video! 👏
A really great video but i gotta nag about torque my guy. Wheres the precision wrench?
I have one. I only use it on engine internals. Never have issues, I've been doing this so long I have a feel for it
I did top and bottom ball joints in my 99 crv today!
It feels good doesnt it! I did balljoints and tie rods! Felt accomplished until I went to get aligned and they told me they wouldn't do it because my LCA was fucked
Another excellent video! Where can I get that lower control arm?
rock auto, or any parts store.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Thank you
Thanks for you video..👍
Thanks for your help, much appreciated...
Glad to help
My sway bar won't go up more for me to put the bracket? Where did I go wrong
Superb video as usual, so glad I found this channel keep um coming, thanks😅😅😅
Glad you enjoy it!
The part of the frame that the back of these lower control arms connect to- literally the piece that that bracket bolts to in the back (3 bolts) of that control arm…do you know if that is replaceable? That piece has cracked apart on me and causing my passenger side lower control arm to not be snug back there. It has wiggle room now which I can see is not good. Weight of front of vehicle has already caused that large washer in back to bend and has started beating up the bushing. I replaced these control arms only about 20,000 miles ago so they’re not bad but my problem now lies in the piece that holds the back of the control arm. I’m afraid this is not an easily replaceable part but wondering if it’s even replaceable at all?! Otherwise all I could do is fabricate some steel and weld on for reinforcement if I want this thing to last any longer
Nice and easy,thanks
Thanks for watching
Great video! and I don’t even have a Crv yet!!! Two questions in your opinion which crv do you think is better gen 1 or gen 2.5? Also what’s the name of that lift?
Thanks for all your helpful videos. Question on the lower control arms- I replaced mine over the weekend, and all went well. However, the alignment is now off (pulls to the left, and steering wheel no longer centered). I did also replace both CV axels, and the sway bar bushings. So my question is, would you expect it to need an alignment? I did not disturb the steering arms in any way. Just concerned that something might be off?
Unfortunately, you always need an alignment after doing this kind of work. Small changes in part length, bushing wear, etc. will impact your alignment. It's a good idea to budget an alignment into the cost of steering/suspension repairs
Thanks man.
I tried to remove the kneecap with a blow but it didn't come out.
Great video. Thank you
Thank you
Hi that was a great video. That brand is your car hoist
This lift is a bendpak 6xp
@@hondaresource
Thanks for the info on the lift been looking on the Internet for different styles and less that will help thanks again
great video how do you take off a sway bar inlet if the ellen is striped and rusted?
Cut them with a reciprocating saw or hacksaw, or hold the inner part with vise grips.
thank you very much!
Awesome video my guy helped a lot
Awesome
Great explanation. Instead of tightening the control arm bolts with the car on the ground, could you measure the axle to fender distance with the car on the ground, then jack up the suspension to the same measurement with the car in the air and then tighten the nuts/bolts?
I would think that would work as well
Way more thought than needed
Awesome video !!! Great narration
Thank you
Awesome video 💪
Thank you 🙌
The bolt you moved the transmission for can that nut be changed out ? Mine is stripped idk what to do !!!
Just bought a 97 CR-V and noticed that on my gravel driveway there a little bit of knocking in the front and rear suspension could it be sway bar links or tie rod end links or both.
Sway bar end links would be my starting point, then sway bar bushings, then ball joints.
I am a little peeved about how the 1st gens lower control arm is set up but I suppose I can't win em all.
It works🤣
I really love it
thanks
great videos am from st lucia
Awesome!
Thanks bro
5:06
What’s the resolution if the bolt on the control arm bracket just keep on spinning?
When I remove the short bolt It wont come off. Just spinning. Thanks
Great stuff man!
My 2000 crv is making a whining noise when your moving, it's not coming from the engine, you can put it in neutral and turn it off and its still there. This is a 4 wheel drive, could it be the transmission rear transfer case?
potentially a wheel bearing
I’m changing my control arm and the arm to the rack and pinion came out a little bit won’t go back in I don’t know what to do
The tie rod?
When I hit my rubber hammer on the bolt where it mounts the strut fork to Lca, it sounds like loose change. Would it be the bushing damaged or just not tightened enough?
Thanks!
Thank you
is there a decent aftermarket brand you'd recommend? i can't justify spending ungodly amounts of money on oem
It seems to easy and I get it done thanks
You can do it!
Right on! Thank you!
You an expert trainer.
I wouldn't say expert but I try to make it to where anyone can do it!
awesome description
Thank you, I hope it helps you
Mine makes a loud noise when I go over small things, would replacing this help ?
I would check the sway bar end links first!
Very good
Thank you
Welcome
You're the man. Thanks for your help..
🤟
Great video. Thabks
Does the bracket that has an arrow always have to tighten it in a directional (the arrow towards the front) way? What if it is tightened in the other way? Thank you,
I would do it toward the front, they put the arrow on it for a reason.
i have the sam car crv 97 wear is you shop please , i need help
I'm in Cottondale, AL
Your videos are excellent! I have a first gen and second gen. What are the best aftermarket parts to purchase? The closest to OEM. Thank you
I like mahle gaskets, Beck Arnley suspension parts.
Thank you! These are great little SUV’s. Thank you for all your hard work. It is great for us do it yourself people!
Proforged makes good aftermarket suspension parts. I have their outer tie rod ends and lower ball joints on my '98 and I've been very satisfied with them. I've read about too many horror stories in regards to MOOG ball joints over the last couple of years so keep that in mind....MOOG ain't what it used to be.
Bro do one for the abs light please 🤞😩.. have an ABS light been trying to get rid of it new axle.. new sensor like goes away then breaks feel popping (air)then light and then brakes feel normal again scanner says driver side abs sensor clean the original put back on light stays on completely but brakes feel good 😑🤔🤔🤔🤔
Weird.
@@hondaresource i know drive me nuts
Thanks for the info 👍👍👍
No problem 👍
How tight do the back bushings need to be ? The biggest bushing.
I don't know the exact torque spec on it. Ugga Dugga!
Thank you 💗
thanks man!!
Hie man, how can i buy and ship honda crv first generation parts from where your side to Zimbabwe. Thanks.
I'm not sure on that one
I wanted to ask if it was possible to convert a 2wd RD1 into AWD?
It's definitely possible. Trans, driveshaft, rear subframe, rear diff and rear axles
Are there any parts you recommend replacing along with the control arms?
Just whatever appears worn
Generally the parts that wear on these are lower ball joints, inner tie rods, and sway bar end links. Occasionally I see outer tie rods, upper control arms, sway bar bushings, etc
Ball joints, ball joints and ball joints haha
No torque on the bolts!?
I don't. Only thing I really torque is engine internals
Torque specs for lower control arm sway bar bushing bracket
16 ft/lb
76lb for lower control arm right & 16lb for sway bar bushing bracket
Appreciate it.
What brand front lower control arms do you recommend? I’ve read a lot about aftermarket bushings being horrid on the front lower arms, even with mevotech or Delphi.
I have Delphi from rock auto in my personal crv
@@hondaresource I'm gonna try that.
I’ve been upgrading some stuff on my RD1 and currently in the process of dropping the engine and subframe but I made the mistake and pulled all the subframe bolts out and I’m having issues aligning the bolts with holes. I have to replace the cv axels so would taking the control arms off help moving the subframe easier??
probably so because you won't be fighting against the spindles
@@hondaresource well I didn’t take the control arms off but I replaced the cv axels and upper and lower ball joint’s along with the tie rods so in the process the subframe was easier to move around. Still hearing a clunking sound so I will be checking/replacing the control arms hopefully that fixes the issue
Is it a good idea to add silicone paste to the bushings? Or is it not needed
Definitely not a bad idea