Do I Really Need Wet And Dry Lube? | Ask GMBN Tech 268
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- čas přidán 7. 06. 2024
- Welcome back to another episode of Ask GMBN Tech, where we try to answer all your complex, scary, niche, and technical questions about mountain bikes and MTB-related tech!
⏱️ Timestamps ⏱️
00:00 - Intro
00:15 - What Do You Think Of Lee McCormack’s RAD Measurement?
02:07 - How Wide Should My Handlebars Be?
04:16 - What Is More Important Geometry Or Suspension?
05:46 - Can You Use A Thinner Oil Than The Fork Manufacturer Recommends?
08:46 - If You Can Only Choose One, Should You Buy Dry Or Wet Lube?
11:24 - Will Changing From A 12x1 Drivetrain to A 10x1 Affect Chain Line?
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If your buying a good wax based lube and reapply every ride you never need a wet lube - I've only ever found wet lubricants accumulate mud and grit in UK winter, wearing out the chain far quicker. Winter wet lubes are a marketing money maker.
Regarding chain Lube.
I always clean my chain set after a ride and re-lube it. I used dry lube throughout 2023. In all conditions and it worked fine.
I’m trying an all weather throughout 2024.
I have used a wet lube previously but I found mud and gunk just stuck to the chain and was a pain to clean.
Interesting 🤔 A few people in the comments have said the same about wet lube. Let us know how the all weather lube goes!
Dry lubes being wax based tend to let grit fall away from the chain whereas wetubes are sticky and grit turns the lube into a grinding paste. Wet lubes are best reserved for long distance road rides in extreme wet... but the best solution overall is imersive waxing. This lets you clear out all the dirt in a chain with very little mess or effort. Also no more dirty fingers when handling your chain.
Use dry all year round. Either before or after every ride when you remember. Wipe/dust off chain, apply to rollers only, sparingly.
Use wet if you have no choice but to ride all day in the rain (booked trip)
There's more to it but most riders can't be bothered to look after the chain properly, a lightly lubed chain (or even dry, dare I say it) lasts longer and wears the drivetrain slower than an overlubed chain covered in muck.
Very good points. I use dry whole year and wipe and relube between rides. Being in US midwest our trails are closed when wet conditions as it damages the trails too much so that changes the situation as well. I do ride my gravel bike on a mix of gravel and asphalt trails when single track is closed, which may be only asphalt depending on the conditions. I still use dry lube but was thinking about getting wet one for that bike for these times. Not much dirt getting on the drivetrain and would last longer.
At 20$ for like 250ml dry lubes are pretty much a low efficiency solution for a problem that was already solved decades ago.
Parrafin wax and Teflon beads for 20$ you'll have a lifetime supply 😂 best dry lube around, full soak
How about using Greese like the good ol'days ?
@@LaurentiusTriarius this is what I meant by looking after a chain properly, it's quite a bit more time consuming though than a dash of dry lube when you remember to do it.
Thank you so much for answering my question in such great detail. You guys are the best!
Happy to help! 👍
RAD works well if comparing bikes of similar stack. And if you are buying without a test ride it should give you a good idea of what size to get, especially if you are frequently in between sizes . Then you can dial in fit with cockpit adjustments. As Lee said in that video: “bike is too short, get a new stem, bike is too long, get a new frame.”
In simple terms if you have "chainline issues" you need to worry about offset.
Rock ‘n Roll Blue dry lube for the dusty conditions here in California - maybe there’s something better, but it works, and my drivetrains last a ridiculously long time
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Recently I done a lower leg service on my Suntour fork and put oil in the lowers. Subtour doesn’t specify the oil used and it didn’t come with any. Are there any downsides of putting oil in a fork that isn’t designed to have it?
I've owned a Suntour xcr32 air fork with lockout, and I put about 50ml of Rockshox 0 w30 oil in the left and right cartridges (the metal shafts that lead to rebound assembly and the air chambers respectively). Every time I clean and relube the suspension in that way, my fork always performs like a dream, and I hear that oil circulating every time I cycle the fork through it's travel.
#AskGMBNTech I live in the northern part of Europe where we long periods of snow in the winter - what are the key things to check on the bike when it’s time for the new fresh bike season? Brakes, sealant etc. Thanks and keep shreddin'!
#AskGMBNTech When attempting a lower leg service my Dust Whiper Seal did not come off cleanly. There is a lot of rubber residue and the seal tore apart. In all the tutorials the Seal just came off as a hole and left a clean fork to install the new Dust Whiper. Any tips on how to get rid of the rest of the rubber and get a clean fork to install my dust whipers?
Happy new year
Happy new year!
RAAD + bar width is what ive used for 20 years. About time you all caught up to me.
Do supercaliber content please 😊
#gmbn hot wax works in both we and dry and is overall cleaner and more efficient.
I think lube is also dictated by the trail conditions where you ride. Some areas in the UK have quite sandy soil therefore even in the rain a wet lube sticks and grinds your gears away so I tent to use a dry lube even in the rain to accommodate this reapplying after ever ride. I use wet lube when it’s raining in other areas of the UK where the dirt is not as sandy.
Horses for courses! Good idea 's well thought out Taylor :)
#AskGMBNTech I've just started getting back into riding and picked up an older bike, 2015 norco storm 7.1, now I know this question is subjective but what would some notable upgrades I could make?
Haven’t used liquid based lubes in almost three years. I hot wax all my chains and will never go back. Cleaning the bike is so much easier after each ride.
#askgmbntech I'm planning on converting my Schwinn from a 3x to a 1x. Problem is I love how much speed on the roads I can achieve with the middle chainring, which is a 36 tooth. Of course the majority, if not all chainrings from the major manufacturers only come in 30 or 32's. Is there a way I can achieve the same speeds with a 30 or 32 tooth, as my current 36 tooth middle chainrings?
Given GMBN is partnered with a company making/selling lube, I'd suggest going to zero friction cycling for independent evidence based advice on chain lubrication.
Hi Steve, yes there are other great brands producing some awesome bike lubes, we chose to work with Peatys partly due to their heritage and environmental-friendliness. We are not reviewing lubes here, or talking about different brands. Just demonstrating the different types of lube you can expect to see. You can draw comparisons from this to any brand you like 🙂
#AskGMBNTech is our weekly questions and answers show (published every Monday). If you have any bike-related questions you can submit them by using the hashtag #AskGMBNTech with your comments for a chance to be featured.
Hey GMBN tech or someone else, PLEASE HELP ME!, I’ve got a question and I can’t really get a solid answer, what’s better for me to do, I wanna buy a trek scratch 8 coil from 2011 but if I save dubble the money I can buy a modern freeride bike like the canyon torque. But what’s smarter because I really need a new bike because my current one isn’t gonna survive the torture for much longer. So I wanna know if it’s smart to upgrade an a 2011 bike or buy brand new❤
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If you first fill the ramp up chamber with air, and then the main chamber will the fork break? I have a Öhlins dh38 Fork.
Hey, here is a link to Ohlins document library where you can find useful information about your fork 👉 ohlins.com/document-library
It sounds like it could be time for a suspension special soon.
@@gmbntech Thanks a lot for the help
Just get Rock n Roll Gold lube, then you don't need either. Plus, it cleans your chain!
#askGMBNtech, ordered a YT Tues that’s 27.5 front and back, I have a Fox 40 that’s a 29’ it has a larger fork offset from 46 on the 27.5 boxxer to 52 on the Fox, basically I want to Mullet it with the Fox, it’s only going to be used for bike park and uplift days and purely a gravity machine! I know the frame geo is for 27.5 wheels but what would be the biggest cons from doing this, I have compared the frames on the 29’ Tues and they are quite different but not massively! The 29’ Tues is carbon which I didn’t want and quite a bit more expensive that’s why I didn’t go for that! I’m sure the 27.5 will be awesome but I have the Fox fork so it was just something I was wondering! I know it will lift the front end but that’s not a bad thing for a gravity bike!
I've found wet lube does nothing helpful that properly maintained dry lube doesn't already do.
I also live where riding wet trails is super destructive and trails are closed when wet for good reason.
How about Bees Wax ?? Does it work ? Did anyone ever try it ?? That would be the Greenest and Cleanest way to maintain your drive train
Effetto makes a sunflower wax, been using it a while now, very pleased.
I include a SMALL amount in my hot wax mix. Beeswax is extremely sticky-if you use too much the chain will have a ton of drag. A small amount added to the paraffin mix gives it a little tackiness so it’s more corrosion resistant.
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On long road trips in the hot Australian summer, how bad is it to have my bikes (alloy & carbon frame) under the sun on the roof for 6-8 hours a day?
Bro just don't do it. The clear coat will fade to a nasty yellow and paint will chip eventually. Find some kind of tarp or something like that for bikes.
Mate, Australia is a big country and theres no way to get around but long road trips. Not sure how a tarp would work on the roof racks
If you leave a carbon MTB in the sun it'll gain aero tubing, call GCN I found a hack 😂
@@liquidmakor6793 Sorry I thought home roof or something :D. Yeah I had this struggle before too, personally I don't have good answer. Maybe you can use bike polish or some sort to give yourself extra layer of protection.
Use a zippered bike carrier bag where you remove the front wheel and pack into the bag. This can be attached to the roof rack with ratchet straps.
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I have a Giant full sus ebike which I love but I find I ride in eco most of the time which makes me wonder if I should buy an analogue bike. I have a Voodoo Bantu which is obviously a budget MTB, but it's a great bike to ride and I find I ride it faster on anything other than rough terrain (hardtail) and decent climbs. My question is, should I improve my Voodoo Bantu with dropper post, decent tyres, tubeless and 1x drive train and learn to ride a hardtail better (I have already installed better shifters and derailleurs on the 2x9 and it shifts lovely, and I've installed 120mm air forks) , or should I sell it and buy a full sus replacement like a Giant Stance (other brands are available). Thanks.
i ride in dry and dusty riyadh, saudi arabia.. it hardly ever rains.. dry lube is the only choice.
Yes, best to keep the chain as clean and dry as possible. Sand and dust can build an abrasive paste if you allow any moisture.
Immersive wax and you'd be fine for 1k km
Might be answered already before, but is Doddy no longer here?
He's now with Mondraker.
It depends. I always ask my wife.
You don't know me from adam but I'm going to ask you how wide should my handlebars be????? Realy?
Good thing I'm not answering those stupid questions.
Common sense people just a little bit goes a long ways.
Good job of answering said stupidity while maintaining perfect composure. Great job. Keepemcoming
All oils are hydrophobic.
interesting: you guys lost Muc Off
I don't wish them to lose sponsors but I'm disgusted by snakeoil vendors...
Nothing really beat immersive wax for efficiency and I'd say it's relatively more ecological but that's so inexpensive it would crumble the industry if everyone started immersive waxin
I never get my bike wet, unless I'm washing it with a wet cloth and some warm soapy water......I dont get mud on it either, and my chain, cassette, and chainring are oil slick.....I use dry lube only, and after lubing the chain, I wipe it off with a cloth.....I build hot rod mountain bikes, slick tires, custom powder coated....Most of my riding is on pavement or concrete, with the odd mild trail now and then.........I think there may be more of us than you realize.....We like mountain bikes, but we like custom hot rods as well, and thats where the magic happens.......I'm addicted......I just cant stop building these things !
Short answer = no?
🎉
All these different types of 'chain' lube are just a way of taking your money,I use just oil,simple, been riding,building,serving bikes for decades without any issues...ha !
every time you say "link in the description below",
I look for it.
It is NEVER there.
You only need Dry lube on the boring rides....