Flame Sensor Troubleshooting & Install
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- čas přidán 8. 11. 2022
- Bert teaches the Kalos technicians Troubleshooting & Install of a flame sensor. The flame sensor he uses in this installation video is the Emerson White-Rodgers Universal Premium Flame Sensor. You can learn more about it at hvacrschool.com/flamesensor.
First, make sure there is no power going to the unit. To remove the old sensor, loosen the screw holding it in place. Once you remove the screw, the sensor should come right out. Check to see if it’s dirty or otherwise would benefit from being changed out. You can also use your meter from end to end to do a continuity test and check for cracks.
When replacing a rod, the new one should have the same angle so that it can make contact with the flame. If you are using a universal sensor, check the manufacturer-provided charts to make sure you bend and cut the new sensor correctly.
The White-Rodgers Universal Premium Flame Sensor comes with a bending sleeve so that you can bend the sensor without dirtying it with the oils of your fingers. Be sure to know how far you need to bend the rod and use the manufacturer’s instructions as a reference. Place the rod against the edge of a surface with the flange pointing up and bend it according to the chart. After you bend the rod, you can cut it if necessary.
After you mount the new sensor, you can test a flame rod using the microamp scale on your meter. This test will tell you if the rod is sending a DC signal to the board; you will generally pick up between 1 and 10 microamps.
Read all the tech tips, take the quizzes, and find our handy calculators at www.hvacrschool.com/.
Great videos as usual. Thanks for all you do!
I never saw sensor itself failing. Cleaning fix the problem.
I have seen the ceramic inside of a flame sensor crack and cause issues with the resistance in-turn causing signal failure going back to the board. Doesn’t happen often, but it does happen.
I’m new to the field and the owner of the company in work for had me join him on service calls…this was one of the calls…heater not working, call for heat, no heat . Did the ground checks , power checks etc….long story short ended up replacing the breaker which was showing signs of electrical burn. The sensor rod he found was a replacement however by LISTENING to the rectification process he could tell the rod was too far away. Doing some minor bends minuscule bends….long story short the system fired up almost in and stayed on.
Will remember this when I get out there on my own.
I'm in the process of tracking down a flame sensor issue myself. I haven't tested voltages or current yet. Not a Tech but a DIYer. In my troubleshooting I think I've narrowed down my specific issue as with the bonding(ground) of the flame sensor mount to the unit frame. Mine was short cycling but instead of 3-5 seconds it would run 10-15 seconds before cycling off then back on. I've removed the flame sensor multiple times in 10 degree weather(Trane package unit), cleaned it and it works but only for a short period. The last time I pulled it I paid more attention to where the metal bonds when the flame sensor bracket is mounted against the unit. So far(knock-on-wood) the unit has been cycling normally for 36 hours. Started acting up on Sunday the 14th right before sever winter weather hit.
A detailed and thorough video. Thankyou.
👍👍 I’m a 40+ HVAC&R tech now semiretired, your videos are always good I wish I’d had this kind of field training
Natural and ground are Not the same although they are bonded at the electrical service panel, but in 99% of the cases it does not make a difference but in few systems it can make a huge difference.
What is 'natural'? 🤭
I bought a few to have in stock. Thanks for the great info as always. HVAC School is life!
Great video as always. I was checking the flame sensor signal on a mid efficiency furnace. When furnace fires up the microamp was around 1.7uA. But within a couple minutes the reading started to drop from 1.7uA to 0.6uA and furnace shuts off. I've checked all grounding, changed flame rod, verified gas pressure, cleaned burners, checked all connections and wires, checked rod distance from burner. The board is sending around 110vac to rod. Can it be a bad board? Thank
Great video Bert 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
When are you guys gonna do a video on the all spark. It’s the best truck stock item Emerson’s made so far.
Our igniter glows, but no gas comes from pilot tube?
where do you get the alligator clips that slide onto the probes?
What if I get no dc micro amps? Would that be caused by a bad motherboard not sending AC voltage to the flame sensor?
Great video. I wanted to add that as a newer technician often times I try to "clean-up" a flame rectifier. I take my data points before and after this is done. I also explain to homeowners and customers that this is a light procedure, but I won't do it for extended periods of time. Would you recommend this procedure and if so for how many seasons? I try and save folks a dime or two but I also don't want to alter the surface or even damage the component.
Pretty hard to damage a piece of stainless steel. Thats all it is, nothing magical.
Could do it every season for the life of the furnace. Don't know that I ever had one fail from cleaning or any other reason.
Awesome
@1:42 I noticed I see tanks in the background maybe acetylene/Oxygen. Just a question how many of you lay acetylene tanks down like that? I was taught they should always be upright. Just a question NOT criticizing in any way.
In reality, how often do you need to replace a flame sensor?
Natural gas, I think I have changed 3 in 15 years.
LP, because of its moisture content, they do get more pitted and discolored.
3 year warranty is great, but again, unless it is LP this should last far longer than that, just like the OEM did.
Is there a video on the grounding topic subject of the flame sensor? I’ve been getting a E270(no flame current sensed)on a Lennox Elite. Happened in 2020. Replaced everything needed. Still didn’t work. Replaced the board. It worked. 2yrs later here I’am with the same code and problem. It has to be a ground issue.
You just have to check with a meter, it could be a grounding issue. Make sure you have a good ground, scratch paint off if you need to
You can test by running a temporary ground wire from a known good ground and if that solves your problem, figure out where the problem is.
@@toddbunze6180 tried that and the same.
@@Kiddro22 what I have done in the past is to plug the furnace in the wall using an extension cord and make sure all your ground circuits are good and tight. I had a system that I had to replace a board two consecutive years in a row until I fixed the ground. The board replacement seemed to temporarily fix the grounding issue. Been about 10 years so l don't remember the particulars. Hope this helps.
AC Service Tech LLC. has a good video on the topic. Check his CZcams channel.
UV Scanner eye video, for the same? That'd be great.
For me at least, it's easier to make the bend by using two pairs of pliers rather than putting it on a surface and using your hand strength to hold it down while making the bend. Alot easier actually
never seen a flame sensor not have continuity, has anyone seen that?
10:50»»»» you said 5 DC volts; it's 5 micro Amps
The moment i saw an impact being used which often may break the baked in screws, it was wrong. When i saw it was a Ryobi, guy lost all credibility.
Isn't a flame sensor the same as a cad cell?
No. CAD cell reacts to light reducing the component metal Resistance in Ohms. Flame rod, reacts to heat, allowing certain amount of DC voltage to pass through. You can fool a cad cell with a flashlight, which will do nothing to a rod. Meanwhile you can fool rod with a heat gun, which will do nothing to cad cell.