Very critical information about the low ohm testing threshold limitation. I used it In that exact scenario to test the heater circuit of an O2 sensor, and it led me in the wrong direction. A multimeter and this tool are useful for different tasks.
Hi Sooper! While some basic O2 sensors testing can be performed with a DMM, I usually recommend using a DSO due to the voltage high switch rate or heater PWM. It can be done with stand alone system like this one czcams.com/video/R9lC1Z_rzZk/video.html or with a scan tool like this one czcams.com/video/DMj5iP2YEvU/video.html with the scope attachment. Cheers!
After watching this review (my second, with you) I subscribed to your channel. You are very clear, with your explanations and seem to anticipate what questions I'll ask, before I realize it myself.
the only thing to add is when you connect it to the battery, you should connect the positive first then the negative , and upon removal negative first then remove the positive.. it will avoid the freezing issue in the boot up... cheers
i have this, i am a forklift and industrial mechanic.works amazingly on 12v and 24v . i hope they come out with a 36 and 48v version.it would be bad ass to use this tool on electrical forklifts and equipment like boom lifts ect
Hey great Video watched it 3x's now, Liked and Subed! Bought this on eBay for like $120 about 4 months ago and barely about to use her for the first time today chasing Electrical Grimlins on my 06 Silverado. Thanks again looking forward to more vids Cheers SoCal! BC
gud mustach, it makes you look like a very sincere genuine charecter who would never lie on a UtUb viDO, &&& no 1 will recognIz U.. veerrE cunning disguise🖐😉
When you test the light bulb to replicate testing a tail light, I see that both the Red and Green lights glow. If I was probing the wire to that bulb, should it only show Red? Or Red and Green like when you tested the bulb by itself? Trying to troubleshoot my trailer wiring lol
I have a power probe from jaycar electronics. You can check frequency of ignition leads. Problem is I went through 2 units. I bought this kyzee power probe recently. Its identical to Ancel unit. Correct me if I'm wrong? Great tutorial btw! Cheers from Australia 🙂
Hi Dragonlijub! oh wow good to know to avoid the Jaycar one, regarding the Ancel one, I'm not 100% sure it same as Kzyee but I very well could be, some electronics are made by same factory and rebranded to be sold in different places and the Ancel does look very much like it. Greetings from California bud!
@@AlexAutoFun nah it's different. The only good thing is frequency in HZ for testing leads on jaycar unit. Kyzee unit is a copy of Ancel unit. Just cheaper.
Are you doing a review based on your testing of it, or on what you have heard from other people? The colour becomes much more relevant when taking readings. This probe is just a yellow version of the Ancel PB100
Hi Rob! Ah I have not reviewed the Ancel PB100 so I can't say how similar it is to the KM10. What noticed in the industry is that some products looks similar but the internals are very different and they either have more or less features, I actually been thinking of doing more tear down videos to show this (I may also have to add the Ancel to the list of probes to review, list is getting longer by the day! LOL) and correct this is my impressions of the tool based on my usage and testing. Hope this helps, Cheers!
I'm curious to know, if you have never personally seen the screen freeze (I have seen reports online), how did you "discover" that connecting the clips first then the connector is the "perfect way to boot up this tool"? Surely if you have never seen the screen fail you can't make that assumption?
@@robbrown6495 Hi Rob! correct as mentioned on the video I heard reports of the tool freezing when being powered up (common issue I seen in simple logic devices without a on/off switch) The trick of connecting the plug after the alligator clips is to ensure power is delivered in one shot (again another trick learned over the many yrs I got to play with different tools and electronics in my career field) Now that being said, it won't work 100% of the time as the connector was not meant to be used like this and there is still plenty of tolerances (and user induced unrepeatability) that can allow an intermittent connection when applying power to the tool which can "crash" the boot process of the tool. I would personally like a power button to avoid this issues but that adds cost from a BOM stand point and labor which is why we probably won't see one on this low cost devices (reducing parts also has the added benefit of reducing complexity in the tool, something that in design for manufacturing is desirable and can in most cases increase the lifetime the device being designed). Hope this helps, Cheers!
Hi joe226825! Nope this does not have tone testing but I have played with tone testers in the past (I may show one on the channel on a later video explaining how it works) but as cool as the concept and idea behind is, I have not been able to use it myself successfully in car diagnostics (I used it in the manufacturing environment for harness testing) But if you still want to try toning, check out the PowerProbe ECT3000 which can be used to trace wires amzn.to/3vRLAbD Hope this helps, Cheers!
Hi Swift! The form factor is probably the biggest one. On a DMM, you got 2 test lead to use for probing and measuring. On a Probe, there usually just one long power cable and the probing and testing is done with the tip of the probe. Both are probably just as capable (assuming they are equipped to measure the same components). A probe is more convenient in some cases and for other a DMM works just as well (so there is a little bit of personal preference here). The biggest difference in results, actually comes from the mechanic using the tool, the more experience the person is the more they will be able to do on the vehicle with either one. The opposite is also true, a very advanced tool will not help much if the person using it is not experienced LOL. Here is an automotive DMM so you can see how those work and compare it to the probe czcams.com/video/5bgPWiKxsCg/video.html Cheers!
Hi John! I haven't use it to test fan controls yet but it may read some PWM components depending on the range/type of cycle. In AC mode it seems to read 5Khz (or less) square wave (if it exceeds that, the corners round up) and Max of 10Khz for sine wave; so it could potentially be used to test of crank & cam sensors and injector pulses during crank. I also have other tool reviews coming up for more advanced tools within a budget, stay tuned for those and thanks for watching bud!
Hi G L! In most cases a short circuit will appear by a fuse or a fusible link blowing a circuit breaker or fuse. This is the best place to begin the search. I remove the blown fuse from the fuse box. Then can use the Power Probe tip to activate and energize each of the fuse contacts. The contact which trips the circuit breaker is the shorted circuit. Once I identify the wire and physically follow it to find the location of the short. I may make a video on this later if you think It will help. Hope this gives you an idea of the process and thanks for watching bud!
Hi andy mix stare! That is simply done using the continuity function. Remember a short is two points that are not supposed to be connected are now connected, so you will get continuity if you probe a short and an open is two points that are supposed to be connected are no longer connected, so you won't get continuity if you probe an open. I do have more videos coming on this topic: Introduction to Multimeters and Introduction to Electrical Circuits (including a visual demonstration of how to check for continuity) Stay tuned, Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun thank for explanation but I made question in wrong way :). I know what the short/open/close mean - i have got this knowledge:). I will explain what kind of tools I am looking for: Lest say that my rear stop light doesn't work in the car = so we have the open circuit (maybe the wire is broken, or connector dirt....) Do you know any tool that could help me find where (in which place in the car) is the problematic place in car's wiring? That problematic issue can be a open circuit, close to the ground or close with other wiring (let say, that two cables have damage isolation and they are touching each other. If you don't have wiring diagram for you car, or you don't know where is the problematic cable mount under the upholstery, you need to disassemble a lot of parts before you find the place.
@@andymixstare6576 Hi Andy! unfortunately currently there is no test tools on the market that can pin point where in the car the wiring issue is found. The closest thing to that is a tone tester like the PowerProbe ECT3000 which can be used to trace wires amzn.to/3vRLAbD But I have played with tone testers in the past (I may show one on the channel on a later video explaining how it works) but as cool as the concept and idea behind is, I have not been able to use it myself successfully in car diagnostics (I also think this is the reasons we don see many tone testers in the market, usually systematically breaking down the circuit for the item that does not work is faster than attempting toning but that is just my experience with it) Hope this helps, Cheers!
Hi anthony! the tool would be set in voltmeter mode as explained at the 4:45 mark. Then you would check to see if the voltage is between 13.5 - 14.5 Volts (when car is running). If it is within that range the alternator is outputting the correct voltage. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
So I'm working on a 2009 Nissan Altima 2.5s I'm seeing if this particular vehicle has a 10 amp fuse now if that 10 and fuse was popped will this particular device identify that a cut in circuit in regards to a possible bad fuse. My voltmeter is showing me a 13.2 however it's still not enough. cuz like you said the alternator should be putting out at least between 13 to 14 volts..
@@anthonyzamudio7741 If there is a fuse in the charging circuit and it was blown, the meter would show 0V. Since you are getting 13.2V this means the circuit is functioning. I have seen some cars be on the low side of 13V, sometimes this was an indicator of a weak alternator about to go out or it was just low because the car was idling a little gas would bring up the voltage higher. You could also be looking at a draw in current, if something is drawing power when the car is off the battery will deplete faster than normal, this will also eventually kill the alternator as it has to constantly charge the battery from a low state. Check for a voltage drop (you can use this tool for that). Let us know what you find bud!
Hi Robert! That is simply done using the continuity function. Remember a short is two points that are not supposed to be connected are now connected, so you will get continuity if you probe a short and an open is two points that are supposed to be connected are no longer connected, so you won't get continuity if probe an open. I do have 2 videos coming, Introduction to Multimeters and Introduction to Electrical Circuits, I can include a visual demonstration of how to check for continuity if it helps. Cheers!
a carlson super probe would be allot better for opens and shorts. or those stupid toners for 20 bucks. buy this for convenience, not for beginners that still dont have a proper meter. but foreal, i was under the impresion this thing did toning. thats sad, does not live up to the super probe monechure *spelling
Hi Kasper! ah I have not had a chance to play with the Carlon Super Probe now that is been such a long time since the tool was produced. but I have played with tone testers (I may show one on the channel on a later video explaining how it works) but as cool as the concept and idea behind is, I have not been able to use it myself successfully in car diagnostics (I used it in the manufacturing environment for harness testing) For toning, I think you are thinking of PowerProbe, that company sells the ECT3000 which can be used to trace wires amzn.to/3vRLAbD Hope this helps and thanks for watching bud!
After watching about 10 other videos to see how to locate an electrical short I finally found good information on your channel. Thank you sir. 🚜
You're welcome! glad to hear it helped!
Very critical information about the low ohm testing threshold limitation. I used it In that exact scenario to test the heater circuit of an O2 sensor, and it led me in the wrong direction. A multimeter and this tool are useful for different tasks.
Hi Sooper! While some basic O2 sensors testing can be performed with a DMM, I usually recommend using a DSO due to the voltage high switch rate or heater PWM. It can be done with stand alone system like this one czcams.com/video/R9lC1Z_rzZk/video.html or with a scan tool like this one czcams.com/video/DMj5iP2YEvU/video.html with the scope attachment. Cheers!
After watching this review (my second, with you) I subscribed to your channel. You are very clear, with your explanations and seem to anticipate what questions I'll ask, before I realize it myself.
Thanks for the sub Bent Nickel! I'm working on a bunch of new videos so I really appreciate the feedback!
the only thing to add is when you connect it to the battery, you should connect the positive first then the negative , and upon removal negative first then remove the positive.. it will avoid the freezing issue in the boot up... cheers
Good tip HOTRODRICO! thanks for sharing bud!
i have this, i am a forklift and industrial mechanic.works amazingly on 12v and 24v . i hope they come out with a 36 and 48v version.it would be bad ass to use this tool on electrical forklifts and equipment like boom lifts ect
Thanks for this video! I just ordered this one. I am hoping to diagnosis a no start issue on an old air-cooled VW bug. I like your Cobra!
You're welcome Anthony! good eye too recognizing the Cobra and good luck with your VW Bug!
Good point about the resistor reading. Need to check if my twinn meter from Autel has the same limitation
Thanks Robort, Cheers!
Dude the mustache is epic lol!!
Thank you Bud!
Hey great Video watched it 3x's now, Liked and Subed! Bought this on eBay for like $120 about 4 months ago and barely about to use her for the first time today chasing Electrical Grimlins on my 06 Silverado. Thanks again looking forward to more vids Cheers SoCal! BC
Thanks Brian! Glad to hear it helped bud!
Been waiting for this video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Amen thanks brother
You're welcome Anonymous! and thank you for watching!
gud mustach, it makes you look like a very sincere genuine charecter who would never lie on a UtUb viDO, &&& no 1 will recognIz U.. veerrE cunning disguise🖐😉
Thank you EZwA! yeah having the Mustache has been interesting, I often get strangers come up to me and ask if they car twirl it LOL
Thanks for a very well made video
You're welcome harsukh! and thank you for watching!
Excellent! Gracias.
You're welcome @betogonzalez8582 Saludos!
Very informative Thanks
You're welcome TRSFC! Glad it was helpful!
When you test the light bulb to replicate testing a tail light, I see that both the Red and Green lights glow. If I was probing the wire to that bulb, should it only show Red? Or Red and Green like when you tested the bulb by itself?
Trying to troubleshoot my trailer wiring lol
I have a power probe from jaycar electronics. You can check frequency of ignition leads. Problem is I went through 2 units. I bought this kyzee power probe recently. Its identical to Ancel unit. Correct me if I'm wrong? Great tutorial btw! Cheers from Australia 🙂
Hi Dragonlijub! oh wow good to know to avoid the Jaycar one, regarding the Ancel one, I'm not 100% sure it same as Kzyee but I very well could be, some electronics are made by same factory and rebranded to be sold in different places and the Ancel does look very much like it. Greetings from California bud!
@@AlexAutoFun thanks for the reply 🙂
@@AlexAutoFun nah it's different. The only good thing is frequency in HZ for testing leads on jaycar unit. Kyzee unit is a copy of Ancel unit. Just cheaper.
Sorry man I just found out it does check frequency on AC setting ! Duh!!! Lol🙂👍👍👍
Thanks
You're welcome mechanical king!
Will it read just putting the probe in wire skin rubber ?
Hi Play! Yes, if you probe a wire hard enough to pierce the insulation, I will get a reading. Cheers!
Are you doing a review based on your testing of it, or on what you have heard from other people?
The colour becomes much more relevant when taking readings.
This probe is just a yellow version of the Ancel PB100
Hi Rob! Ah I have not reviewed the Ancel PB100 so I can't say how similar it is to the KM10. What noticed in the industry is that some products looks similar but the internals are very different and they either have more or less features, I actually been thinking of doing more tear down videos to show this (I may also have to add the Ancel to the list of probes to review, list is getting longer by the day! LOL) and correct this is my impressions of the tool based on my usage and testing. Hope this helps, Cheers!
I'm curious to know, if you have never personally seen the screen freeze (I have seen reports online), how did you "discover" that connecting the clips first then the connector is the "perfect way to boot up this tool"?
Surely if you have never seen the screen fail you can't make that assumption?
@@robbrown6495 Hi Rob! correct as mentioned on the video I heard reports of the tool freezing when being powered up (common issue I seen in simple logic devices without a on/off switch) The trick of connecting the plug after the alligator clips is to ensure power is delivered in one shot (again another trick learned over the many yrs I got to play with different tools and electronics in my career field) Now that being said, it won't work 100% of the time as the connector was not meant to be used like this and there is still plenty of tolerances (and user induced unrepeatability) that can allow an intermittent connection when applying power to the tool which can "crash" the boot process of the tool. I would personally like a power button to avoid this issues but that adds cost from a BOM stand point and labor which is why we probably won't see one on this low cost devices (reducing parts also has the added benefit of reducing complexity in the tool, something that in design for manufacturing is desirable and can in most cases increase the lifetime the device being designed). Hope this helps, Cheers!
UGH electrical issues are JUST THE WORST
LOL Yep I'm 100% with you on this Mermaid Princess!
Question, can it check for Open Circuit Locations with Audible Sounding tones? Can it Check for Ground Faults with audible sounds?
Hi joe226825! Nope this does not have tone testing but I have played with tone testers in the past (I may show one on the channel on a later video explaining how it works) but as cool as the concept and idea behind is, I have not been able to use it myself successfully in car diagnostics (I used it in the manufacturing environment for harness testing) But if you still want to try toning, check out the PowerProbe ECT3000 which can be used to trace wires amzn.to/3vRLAbD Hope this helps, Cheers!
What is the deference between power brobe and multimeter?
Hi Swift! The form factor is probably the biggest one. On a DMM, you got 2 test lead to use for probing and measuring. On a Probe, there usually just one long power cable and the probing and testing is done with the tip of the probe. Both are probably just as capable (assuming they are equipped to measure the same components). A probe is more convenient in some cases and for other a DMM works just as well (so there is a little bit of personal preference here). The biggest difference in results, actually comes from the mechanic using the tool, the more experience the person is the more they will be able to do on the vehicle with either one. The opposite is also true, a very advanced tool will not help much if the person using it is not experienced LOL. Here is an automotive DMM so you can see how those work and compare it to the probe czcams.com/video/5bgPWiKxsCg/video.html Cheers!
Thanks I would like how to work with continuity
Hi Jairo! yeah the continuity function of this tool is very helpful. Cheers from California!
Is this guy serious with his Mustach lol Ridicules!! Lol
Hi CRL REALITY! Yep! very serious (it still getting longer too!) LOL Thanks for watching and commenting bud!
So this would work for testing PWM components such as fan controls?
Hi John! I haven't use it to test fan controls yet but it may read some PWM components depending on the range/type of cycle. In AC mode it seems to read 5Khz (or less) square wave (if it exceeds that, the corners round up) and Max of 10Khz for sine wave; so it could potentially be used to test of crank & cam sensors and injector pulses during crank. I also have other tool reviews coming up for more advanced tools within a budget, stay tuned for those and thanks for watching bud!
Great, so how do you find a short please
Hi G L! In most cases a short circuit will appear by a fuse or a fusible link blowing a circuit breaker or fuse. This is the best place to begin the search. I remove the blown fuse from the fuse box. Then can use the Power Probe tip to activate and energize each of the fuse contacts. The contact which trips the circuit breaker is the shorted circuit. Once I identify the wire and physically follow it to find the location of the short. I may make a video on this later if you think It will help. Hope this gives you an idea of the process and thanks for watching bud!
how can you check using this tools if the circuit is open, close or even shorts ?
Hi andy mix stare! That is simply done using the continuity function. Remember a short is two points that are not supposed to be connected are now connected, so you will get continuity if you probe a short and an open is two points that are supposed to be connected are no longer connected, so you won't get continuity if you probe an open. I do have more videos coming on this topic: Introduction to Multimeters and Introduction to Electrical Circuits (including a visual demonstration of how to check for continuity) Stay tuned, Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun thank for explanation but I made question in wrong way :). I know what the short/open/close mean - i have got this knowledge:).
I will explain what kind of tools I am looking for:
Lest say that my rear stop light doesn't work in the car = so we have the open circuit (maybe the wire is broken, or connector dirt....) Do you know any tool that could help me find where (in which place in the car) is the problematic place in car's wiring?
That problematic issue can be a open circuit, close to the ground or close with other wiring (let say, that two cables have damage isolation and they are touching each other.
If you don't have wiring diagram for you car, or you don't know where is the problematic cable mount under the upholstery, you need to disassemble a lot of parts before you find the place.
@@andymixstare6576 Hi Andy! unfortunately currently there is no test tools on the market that can pin point where in the car the wiring issue is found. The closest thing to that is a tone tester like the PowerProbe ECT3000 which can be used to trace wires amzn.to/3vRLAbD But I have played with tone testers in the past (I may show one on the channel on a later video explaining how it works) but as cool as the concept and idea behind is, I have not been able to use it myself successfully in car diagnostics (I also think this is the reasons we don see many tone testers in the market, usually systematically breaking down the circuit for the item that does not work is faster than attempting toning but that is just my experience with it) Hope this helps, Cheers!
How can I test for an alternator circuit making sure that the alternator is putting out with this particular tool
Hi anthony! the tool would be set in voltmeter mode as explained at the 4:45 mark. Then you would check to see if the voltage is between 13.5 - 14.5 Volts (when car is running). If it is within that range the alternator is outputting the correct voltage. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
So I'm working on a 2009 Nissan Altima 2.5s I'm seeing if this particular vehicle has a 10 amp fuse now if that 10 and fuse was popped will this particular device identify that a cut in circuit in regards to a possible bad fuse. My voltmeter is showing me a 13.2 however it's still not enough. cuz like you said the alternator should be putting out at least between 13 to 14 volts..
@@anthonyzamudio7741 If there is a fuse in the charging circuit and it was blown, the meter would show 0V. Since you are getting 13.2V this means the circuit is functioning. I have seen some cars be on the low side of 13V, sometimes this was an indicator of a weak alternator about to go out or it was just low because the car was idling a little gas would bring up the voltage higher. You could also be looking at a draw in current, if something is drawing power when the car is off the battery will deplete faster than normal, this will also eventually kill the alternator as it has to constantly charge the battery from a low state. Check for a voltage drop (you can use this tool for that). Let us know what you find bud!
How to order
Hi Victor! I put the link to it in the video description. Hope this helps, Cheers!
good tutorial by chance your last name is Rodriguez? lol.
Thank you Horacio! haha imagine that!
You did not show how to check open or short circuits.
Hi Robert! That is simply done using the continuity function. Remember a short is two points that are not supposed to be connected are now connected, so you will get continuity if you probe a short and an open is two points that are supposed to be connected are no longer connected, so you won't get continuity if probe an open. I do have 2 videos coming, Introduction to Multimeters and Introduction to Electrical Circuits, I can include a visual demonstration of how to check for continuity if it helps. Cheers!
It's Jonny onion ring ...
LOL!!
a carlson super probe would be allot better for opens and shorts. or those stupid toners for 20 bucks. buy this for convenience, not for beginners that still dont have a proper meter. but foreal, i was under the impresion this thing did toning. thats sad, does not live up to the super probe monechure *spelling
Hi Kasper! ah I have not had a chance to play with the Carlon Super Probe now that is been such a long time since the tool was produced. but I have played with tone testers (I may show one on the channel on a later video explaining how it works) but as cool as the concept and idea behind is, I have not been able to use it myself successfully in car diagnostics (I used it in the manufacturing environment for harness testing) For toning, I think you are thinking of PowerProbe, that company sells the ECT3000 which can be used to trace wires amzn.to/3vRLAbD Hope this helps and thanks for watching bud!
borat?
LOL!