Looking for affordable bonsai wire? We now sell 400g coils of non-anodized aluminum bonsai wire in 5 diameters! Find it here: www.bonsaify.com/products/aluminum-bonsai-growers-wire-400g-rolls
I really enjoy your style as feel like its a natural conversation. I am expecting a young Japanese black pine next week. So this video is helpful. Thank you.
This was a great video as it answers some important questions. To me the most important is the difference between a needle bud and a node bud. As a retired nurseryman I thought I could rush in and decandle the pines I received and I learned not to rush. There are so many lessons here and I guess summing them up it comes down to the sequence of what I do.
What great timing! I was just looking at my JBP and JBP pines this pm, wondering what I was going to do with them. They are all growing long extensions. I will definitely use this technique on a lot of them! Thank you!
Hi! You can check this video, starting at about 6:45 mark - this is the fall result of the decandling process that happened last summer and the next step. czcams.com/video/I-KO4sxZrKs/video.html
Informative vid, thanks for sharing ... if you were taking somewhat same age stock to do exposed root or root over rock would you cut above the node when decandling to to keep encouraging strong grow at base? I'm assuming that will help thicken up the roots as well? Thanks again.
You should leave a sacrifice branch, so decandle all but one big branch. These examples are all going to be small trees and slowly grown. For larger trees you need different movement and larger growth! The roots will fatten in tandem with large too growth, so to make more wood DONT DeCANDLE!
They are seedlings and we did not to the seedling cutting technique on them. (results vary.) Japanese Black Pines cannot be propagated by normal cutting techniques, although there is a documented layering technique that is very specific.
I have some JBP that i bought from you and I can see that it looks like mine have developed at bit faster. Can i still apply this technique, or have I missed the window for this type of operation?
The window is early-to-mid-summer. Essentially here in San Francisco we do it earlier than in other parts of the country because we have very cool summers. These are being decandled very early because the length of the summer growth is not important, and what I'm trying to establish is more budding near the base of the tree. That's because they will be small trees. If I wanted to make larger trees I'd leave the large extension in place instead because that's what makes the wood.
Yes, too late to decandle - what will happen is that the tree will just make buds rather than new needles and shoots. Then you'll not have anything to cut back to next season. Better to wait and do a hard cutback next June.
Hey Eric - Say you want a thicker trunk but shohin size.. You would you let the candle run this year and subsequently years.. but clip any branches thats sprout between 8" and the top extension in the future? Thanks!
Yes, for making shohin - the buds between the 0-year node and the 2 year node usually start growing slowly. If you work with those, bend the sacrifice away to keep it from shading and then treat it almost like a finished tree but allowing the sacrifice to run while keeping the other buds small you can get a fatter trunk while keeping compact branching. Thinning the side branching from the sacrifice isn't 100% necessary; I've done it both ways. Doing the thinning encourages more growth of the lower buds.
I kinda wind the wire between them. If they're extra long you can cut them in half without much down-side. That makes the winding easier. It's also fine to smash a few of them, and to remove some of them that are in the way. You're not tryin to make the tree look pretty when you're doing this, you're trying to get the shape you want. It'll look pretty later. The main consideration is leaving as many needles as you can to help drive the growth.
It’s not one thing, but a combination of many factors. Full sun, porous soil, fertilizer, the right watering schedule, pest treatments…good quality water, the list goes on!
hey eric thanks for the video it's very informative, I'm taking this summer to learn about jbp development. I have a shohin jbp in a similar corkscrew fashion like the ones you twisted, and it's nicely developed to where the first turn is starting to fuse together. The sacrifice branch was chopped off before it came into my possession. The branching on the tree is new and theres really only 4 branches, where do not look like they were decandled the previous growing season before coming into my possession. I have two questions: is it possible to start developing the root base as exposed root (by potting it in the usual fashion) this late into development? I'm essentially at the very first point of developing branches to incorporate into the design. The nebari on the tree isn't bad but it's not as strong as I'd like it to be and I want to avoid possible inverse taper, especially as the tree thickens around where the bends are fusing. The second question is what is the best way to develop branches to use in the design? the branches themselves are long and luckily one is backbudding at the base so I can replace it soon, but should I just keep decandling the branches to push for backbudding?
Assuming that the tree is healthy and the branches are young you'll get back budding. If that's not successful you can re-graft branches. As for exposed root - keep in mind that you want the transition from "trunk" to roots to be smooth - that's a key indicator of quality in exposed root. Maybe post a video?
Looking for affordable bonsai wire? We now sell 400g coils of non-anodized aluminum bonsai wire in 5 diameters! Find it here: www.bonsaify.com/products/aluminum-bonsai-growers-wire-400g-rolls
I really enjoy your style as feel like its a natural conversation. I am expecting a young Japanese black pine next week. So this video is helpful. Thank you.
This was a great video as it answers some important questions. To me the most important is the difference between a needle bud and a node bud. As a retired nurseryman I thought I could rush in and decandle the pines I received and I learned not to rush. There are so many lessons here and I guess summing them up it comes down to the sequence of what I do.
It's like you can read my mind on the topics I'm most interested in! Thank you for this!
Happy birthday Eric!!
Thanks Mark!
What great timing! I was just looking at my JBP and JBP pines this pm, wondering what I was going to do with them. They are all growing long extensions. I will definitely use this technique on a lot of them! Thank you!
Just remember - more growth = more wood, so this technique is for slowing growth, redirecting, diffusing. Good Luck!
Thanks for the video Eric.
Thankyou Mr Eric for tutorial,always get healthy.from Indonesia
Very nice video, loved it.
Show. Terrific. well done.
Exceptional Video. Very informative!!!
Thanks
This is terrific video.. Please send us the updated stage of those. Best regards.
Hi! You can check this video, starting at about 6:45 mark - this is the fall result of the decandling process that happened last summer and the next step.
czcams.com/video/I-KO4sxZrKs/video.html
Nice 🙂👍👍 video
Lovely , could you make any use of the candles ? Like cuttings or something ?
Keren
👍👌👌
🥰
show.!!!
😍😍
Informative vid, thanks for sharing ... if you were taking somewhat same age stock to do exposed root or root over rock would you cut above the node when decandling to to keep encouraging strong grow at base? I'm assuming that will help thicken up the roots as well? Thanks again.
You should leave a sacrifice branch, so decandle all but one big branch. These examples are all going to be small trees and slowly grown. For larger trees you need different movement and larger growth! The roots will fatten in tandem with large too growth, so to make more wood DONT DeCANDLE!
Are these seedlings derived from cuttings? Can the candles that have been built be planted with cuttings?
They are seedlings and we did not to the seedling cutting technique on them. (results vary.) Japanese Black Pines cannot be propagated by normal cutting techniques, although there is a documented layering technique that is very specific.
I just baught a pre bosai to try. Hope make a magic. Thanks for sharing@@Bonsaify
Ok, sekali
I have some JBP that i bought from you and I can see that it looks like mine have developed at bit faster. Can i still apply this technique, or have I missed the window for this type of operation?
The window is early-to-mid-summer. Essentially here in San Francisco we do it earlier than in other parts of the country because we have very cool summers. These are being decandled very early because the length of the summer growth is not important, and what I'm trying to establish is more budding near the base of the tree. That's because they will be small trees. If I wanted to make larger trees I'd leave the large extension in place instead because that's what makes the wood.
Great video Eric, very succinct.
Do you think it's too late to decandle now? I live in Castro Valley California
Yes, too late to decandle - what will happen is that the tree will just make buds rather than new needles and shoots. Then you'll not have anything to cut back to next season. Better to wait and do a hard cutback next June.
@@Bonsaify thank you!
@@Bonsaify I'm stoke for the coming show in November!!
Hey Eric - Say you want a thicker trunk but shohin size.. You would you let the candle run this year and subsequently years.. but clip any branches thats sprout between 8" and the top extension in the future? Thanks!
Yes, for making shohin - the buds between the 0-year node and the 2 year node usually start growing slowly. If you work with those, bend the sacrifice away to keep it from shading and then treat it almost like a finished tree but allowing the sacrifice to run while keeping the other buds small you can get a fatter trunk while keeping compact branching. Thinning the side branching from the sacrifice isn't 100% necessary; I've done it both ways. Doing the thinning encourages more growth of the lower buds.
@@Bonsaify You're the best, thanks Eric
how do you manage to get wire between the needles! I have tried and I always get needles trapped... is there a secret?
I kinda wind the wire between them. If they're extra long you can cut them in half without much down-side. That makes the winding easier. It's also fine to smash a few of them, and to remove some of them that are in the way. You're not tryin to make the tree look pretty when you're doing this, you're trying to get the shape you want. It'll look pretty later. The main consideration is leaving as many needles as you can to help drive the growth.
I’ve got a very small pine from my back yard. How do you squeeze such explosive growth from your pines?
Don't over water it.
It’s not one thing, but a combination of many factors. Full sun, porous soil, fertilizer, the right watering schedule, pest treatments…good quality water, the list goes on!
hey eric thanks for the video it's very informative, I'm taking this summer to learn about jbp development. I have a shohin jbp in a similar corkscrew fashion like the ones you twisted, and it's nicely developed to where the first turn is starting to fuse together. The sacrifice branch was chopped off before it came into my possession. The branching on the tree is new and theres really only 4 branches, where do not look like they were decandled the previous growing season before coming into my possession. I have two questions: is it possible to start developing the root base as exposed root (by potting it in the usual fashion) this late into development? I'm essentially at the very first point of developing branches to incorporate into the design. The nebari on the tree isn't bad but it's not as strong as I'd like it to be and I want to avoid possible inverse taper, especially as the tree thickens around where the bends are fusing. The second question is what is the best way to develop branches to use in the design? the branches themselves are long and luckily one is backbudding at the base so I can replace it soon, but should I just keep decandling the branches to push for backbudding?
Assuming that the tree is healthy and the branches are young you'll get back budding. If that's not successful you can re-graft branches.
As for exposed root - keep in mind that you want the transition from "trunk" to roots to be smooth - that's a key indicator of quality in exposed root. Maybe post a video?
@@Bonsaify sure I can probably post something soon
Are there any black pines or junipers for sale on your website right now that will ship withing a week or so? If so I'd love to buy a few
Yes, we'll be shipping orders this week on Monday-Wed-Friday and the pines and Junipers are ready !
@@Bonsaify ok thanks I'll probably place an order tonight
Been eyeing them a while
@@Bonsaify caved in and finally bought some
You grew them all from seed?
Yes, I grow a lot of pines from seed.🤓
@@Bonsaify You seem to have a very good, vigorous system because those things are thick. Thanx for your reply duder.
Hey Eric I came here looking for a video giving 50 examples of decandling and I'm very disappointed you didn't pull through. Unsubscribed!!
😂