I've been a machinist for over twenty years and have been around some incredible machines, but I have to say I have never seen someone use them to their fullest potential or adapt to their limitations like you do. You are an incredibly brilliant person.
I worked for the aircraft industry and made many of these one-off items. Not only is inventing and creating these fun, but more so, watching engineers shake their heads as you try to explain it all ;) Great job on that tool!
As a professional involved in manufacturing, german products are generally of better quality and precission. But when really precice manufacturing is needed (for aerospace). USA manufacturing is in a class by itself. Extremely good quality. (too bad a lot is done in inches tho).
As a hobbyist this makes me feel super stupid. To find thoughts so far out in front of a need and to be able to achieve the desired tool is just amazing. What an inspiration to keep trying to improve my ability. A few years late but a hat tip and grateful THANK YOU.
Wow, that's an incredible piece of instrumentation you've built, excellent craftsmanship and design. All machinists should aspire to have the skill and ability that you display.
Peter, as you know, few people think and even fewer invent stuff. You're off the charts! You think and you invent stuff on the fly. You're amazing! Thank you for sharing this fascinating stuff!!!!! :)
It's all so casually brilliant and accurate - yes you do make it look incredibly easy which screams talent - I am especially fond of that method of securing the dial indicators which doesn't risk damaging the shaft holding them, again brilliant in it's simplicity and execution thank you for sharing
Peter you are a mad genius, I thought I would fall on the floor laughing when you broke out the tin snips, dewalt drill and file to debur those pins .. lol
4 jaw chuck FTW! Your Intagrex is one awesome machine. I see these types of machines a fair amount doing my job but nobody utilizes them like you do. Great videos Peter. Thanks for making them.
Simple, elegant, practical design. I like it. Nice to see a machine shop full of real CNC machines from Japan. Not the HAAS sort. Great videos, thanks.
Awesome tool Peter! I love your videos! I make a simple tool-setter to use in my VMC's that uses a 1/2/3 block, and Federal .0005 resolution indicator, combined with a machined housing to hold the indicator. This accomplishes the same thing you use a pin for when touching tools. The point of my comment: thank you for sharing your method of fixing the indicator position in your tool! I am absolutely going to steal that! Right now I use the dreaded set-screw (just like you mentioned). I use a brass-tipped screw, so it does not mark up the indicators affixing post. But, what it does do is: actually affect the action of the indicator. If I snug the screw up enough that I don't think the indicator will move, the action gets stiff because it compresses that post. And, this does not take much tension at all. far less than I like. I have had it move on me a few times. So, I am constantly checking the calibration, which is annoying after a while. I think your method will solve that problem. Thank you!
Hi Peter what can I say but amazing back in the 70s when I had my own little repetition engineering business I had to hold a tolerance of .01 mm not easy. that is a beautiful comparator a toolmakers piece of art. keep healthy.kind regards Nev
Wow!! All tailstocks should allow for vertical adjustments! So many head aches could have been prevented from the use of so many shims... Very clever design!
The adjustment happens to be in the vertical direction because that's the way the turning tools are oriented. Or in other words the X axis is vertical. There is also a adjustment parallel to the Y axis that is very similar to a conventional tailstock with a adjustment screw. This is necessary in order to make sure that any milling is aligned to the axis of the work piece.
I've watched quite a few CZcams videos, and this one is easily one of the best. So good. Thank you. You clearly thought through this tool very thoroughly, so you likely considered adding 2 pins to the fixed jaw (or both jaws for that matter) to eliminate the need to "sweep" the diameters. Any reason not to do this?
Very nice tool .I do hobby work with flat belt machines from 100 years ago. I wonder what the old boys would think of the kinds of machines you use. I bet they would be amazed.
Hi NIce job, do you not use OML or Geradi vises with pull down jaws or OML Sintergrip they must be good to hold aluminium with minimum material to cut away after.
Really nice design, maybe some imbedded magnets on the pin holding fingers would help with placement of the tool. The possibility on dropping the tool can be reduced and it attach itself flush with the part.
In this video, i see the trunion and the 5 axis work stop being used for the first time since I watched those build videos. Man, that is a machine and you are its master. Not only that, you just built the coolest specialized measuring tool I have ever seen. Do you have any job openings? I promise not to get in the way. Honest!
Beautiful gage! Do you think you could make it a little easier to handle by embedding a couple magnets in each arm that would serve to force the gage flat on the work surface? If I tried to think hard enough to design an instrument this fine, the EMTs might have to shoot me up with TPA.
Peter another faboulous video of a modern machinist (no offence to all the manual guys) you are doing the real stuff it would seem - that Mazak is an amazing machine - I don't suppose there is a HAAS equivalent ? I note you use Haas at home - someone will sponsor you channel -it is really great inspiring stuff - you've just m,ade something that looks like it would do starett or mitutoyo very proud.
Thank you for sharing another great video! I was curious at about 3:54 where you are indicating back and forth the Kurt surface and then the trunnion surface in Z (?) axis. If you had found an unparallel indicator reading there, what would you change on the machine to adjust that reading? I hope my question is clear. I'm assuming that since you had the trunnion zeroed in the 4 jaw, that that isn't where you would adjust? Thank you.
Metal Illness I would adjust and did adjust the tail stock to get it parallel to the Z axis. On this machine there is a cam adjustment built into the tailstock. You are very observant thanks for the question.
Otherwise really nice and efficient design but is there some reason why you didn't do the fixed jaw with 2 pins? That way the ID measurement would be much easier.
You know I didn't think of that. Because this is a dedicated gage being set on a ring I could have done that. I just was doing what GageMaker does because they set theirs on babe blocks. That's a good idea for next time.
Thank you for making this video. Would you be able to use this thing without any major modifications/improvement of you were to get a identical part but with1/4" larger grooves ?.
Hey man.. cool tool you make... do the customer pay for you making the gauge tool? or do you pay for it because in out shop we would not have the time or money to make a fine tool like that for a cuple of parts..
nikolaiownz I think he uses it on more than one job. Unless the customer promises him repeat work on the specific part over and over then you can make hard tooling like that and it would pay for itself.
Great toolmaking! The amount of time spent on making that piece makes me wonder about the price of the parts you are making, and the number of parts. For less than 10 parts I can't imagine getting a price that would cover it, but your customers might be know the value of quality parts and also might be willing to pay for it.
These parts are going to be repeat jobs so its worth it to spend time to get it right. The former way that this groove was checked. Cut the groove undersize. Get a inspector to bring the Romar arm out to the machine set it up measure the part than be present at the machine while you run the tool into the final dimensions. With this tool it doesn't require all that. Also you usually have to wait for the inspector the whole process took about a hour to cut one groove. Its that boss in the middle that makes this a difficult measuring job. But not now with this gage. Another thing I don't really trust that Romar arm for this kind of measurement hanging into the machine from a tripod on the shop floor next to the machine.
If you are talking about this part. The customer has special rubber things to protest the threads. In general I don't do any final shipping of parts so i don't have to worry about thread protectors.
Because this is a reference gauge. It should be checked for its calibration just before measuring. Now this gauge does have aluminum elements in it. But just for the sake of discussion lets say the gauge was made of steel. Now if your reference set gauge is also steel and calibrated at lets say 68 degrees F. Now if the temperature changes in the shop so will the reference set gauge. So in theory the set gauge will either expand or contract according to shop temp. So if you check the calibration/setting on your reference gauge it should almost eliminate temperature fluctuations. Now this gauge does have aluminum elements in it. So the difference in expansion between the aluminum and the steel set gauge would come into play. If you just set the gauge and never checked it. That is why it is important when using reference gauges such as this or say dial bore gauges to have your setting standard on the bench to check them just before measuring. I see this where someone in inspection sets a dial bore gauge for a machinist. Then takes it out to his machine. He machines the parts without having a set gauge at his machine to check it. If the tolerance is close this is not a good procedure. You always need to check a reference gauge just before measuring with it.
I'm not sure I understand your question. If you are talking about the machine its a Mazak Integrex e650H. Or do you mean the tool holders? On this Machine I use moistly the brands Sandvic and Big Daishowa holders. Or tooling? There are to many to list Sandvik, Iscar, Sumitomo, Guehring, Tungaloy, Mitsubishi to name just a few.
For hand-chamfering holes, is there an advantage to using the super-long lollipop bit vs a normal length one closer to the drill chuck? I've never seen them that long before
It’s just the one I have. That said it has come in handy under certain circumstances, where I had to reach along close next to a wall to get to a hole or into a bore to deburr a intersecting hole on a ID. Stuff like that. I prefer using a burr like this over a c-sink just for that reason. With a burr you can come in at a angle. But you do have to run at low speed or they chatter. Also be carful because they will ride up out of the hole when using them at angles.
Thank you so much for your attempt to show the best measurement tools. I am working in a company producing power steering hydraulic pump. I want to design and produce the ring gauges to control the different dimensions (diameter) of a shaft. The shaft has the diameters, 10.28±0.02 and 9.10±0.05 and 19.35±0.02 and 10.83±0.02. I need the gauges that is used many times (for 400 shafts) every day by a CNC machine operator and needs to have bigger manufacturing tolerances compared to the numbers provided by the DIN 7162. Would you please help me with this matter?
I'm sorry. I don't make these kind of gauges. You would be better to go to c company that specializes in making ring gauges. That's what I do when I want a gauge of this type. Thanks.
With A CNC machine its nice to have a number to change a offset. With plug gauges GO and NOGO you can see the gauge doesn't quite go but how much to take off? (This is even more uncertain with tapered features) Now you can sneak up a little at a time but its much better to have a exact number to work to. Also every time you index a insert. On this particular tool I'm running two offsets on e for the large diameter and one for the small diameter. With this gauge I can tell exactly how much to go.
I mean for goodness sake's you even put someone sort of cove type chamfer on the boss that has the pin that holds the spring - what am amazing effort -the precision is incredible -are you sure you're not german.
Yes,again.I'm here and I got first comment that make I think it's all worthy.I am truly exist.And I woll keep on looking for more practical skills about the work.
I feel better about the measurement if I can rock the gauge back and forth to get a null. It gives me more confidence in my measurement. It's is easier to build. Also the data from the Gauge Maker software uses a two point measurement for its numbers. For these API face grooves.
Typically you would hire a rigging company to move large equipment. This machine came from a mining equipment manufacture in Milwaukie (This machine was in the small machine part of their shop!) . It took two 18 wheeler trucks to move it to Houston. When it got here I had a rigging company unload and place it in the building.
There are a number of reasons. Some of the parts o do require a larger spindle bore than the hydraulic chucks draw tube will pass thru (About 5.75"). I get 6.63 Spindle bore without the draw tube. Some of the ways I hold parts and fixtures requires more travel in the jaws than a hydraulic chuck has. Sometimes I run parts off center. And I like the way I can dial in the runout with the 4 Jaw chuck the type of work I do the time this takes is not a problem. Also the soft jaws are easer to make (If necessary) and available in more different configurations for a manual chuck. The Hydraulic chuck that came with the machine is a 21" chuck. I wanted a smaller diameter chuck for clearance issues. The 4 jaw chuck on the machine is 16.5" this gives me more clearance to be able to use shorter tools. You may have noticed I have a smaller 8" 3jaw chuck I mount in the Larger 4 Jaw. I do this for the same reason when working on smaller diameter parts. You will find with these Integrex style machines a large diameter chuck can be a disadvantage because of spindle face clearance when you are close to the chuck. With a large diameter chuck it forces you to use longer length tools. Witch can lead to rigidity problems.
Edge Precision iam pretty much taking a risk getting a mazak... Thts y i just got a basic machine with 8" chuck with 3 jaws, taper type capto c6 & 20 tools capacity
One thing I see with all these high tec machines you would think they could center or dial in the parts automatically. if you could invent that look how much time you would save having not to dial in a part every time you chuck something up . Just saying.
Some machines can... well sorta... on some of the newer Haas machines if you have the probe system you can literally slap a vise down and probe the x and y and use a G68 to automatically rotate your work offset. we have a UMC 750ss which is a 5 axis trunnion style machine and it is useful for tramming in vises because you can just offset the C-axis rotary a bit to square up the jaw instead of knocking the vise around with an indicator. Saves a bit of setup time when you have a quick job that you just need a Kurt vise for instead of other 5 axis workholding.
Yep, Using The Skills God Gave You, Is Intelegent. And; You Might, Even Suprise Yourself. This is Incredible. Intertaining & Learning, Is Important. $ Good Luck. 'Oh' And; Thanks for never, "spouting out, perverted trash talk".
I would say if the tolerances were closer you would be correct. This is a recreance gage to the machined standard. Every time I used it I checked it to the standard. Also it was not in my hands for more than probably 10-15 seconds at a time. Not enough to change the temperature to make a difference. The job is already done and the tool worked fine. Thanks for your comment it is a valid concern.
Hope you got a patent on it. I dont think you care if Someones makes one bit if they build them and start making money its money your idea was used for dont moss out
I've been a machinist for over twenty years and have been around some incredible machines, but I have to say I have never seen someone use them to their fullest potential or adapt to their limitations like you do. You are an incredibly brilliant person.
I worked for the aircraft industry and made many of these one-off items. Not only is inventing and creating these fun, but more so, watching engineers shake their heads as you try to explain it all ;) Great job on that tool!
As a professional involved in manufacturing, german products are generally of better quality and precission. But when really precice manufacturing is needed (for aerospace). USA manufacturing is in a class by itself. Extremely good quality. (too bad a lot is done in inches tho).
@@josehernandez5671 lol
Thanks!
It’s a competition of attention to detail and we all have a shot.
As a hobbyist this makes me feel super stupid. To find thoughts so far out in front of a need and to be able to achieve the desired tool is just amazing. What an inspiration to keep trying to improve my ability. A few years late but a hat tip and grateful THANK YOU.
Wow, that's an incredible piece of instrumentation you've built, excellent craftsmanship and design.
All machinists should aspire to have the skill and ability that you display.
Thanks Middleman!
Peter, as you know, few people think and even fewer invent stuff.
You're off the charts! You think and you invent stuff on the fly. You're amazing!
Thank you for sharing this fascinating stuff!!!!! :)
Man you are a master machinist!!! I’m a manual machinist with a little Cnc operating experience. Wish I had your skill and experience!
It's all so casually brilliant and accurate - yes you do make it look incredibly easy which screams talent - I am especially fond of that method of securing the dial indicators which doesn't risk damaging the shaft holding them, again brilliant in it's simplicity and execution
thank you for sharing
Peter you are a mad genius, I thought I would fall on the floor laughing when you broke out the tin snips, dewalt drill and file to debur those pins .. lol
That's a truly sweet piece of kit, nicely concepted, detailed and made. Kudos to you, sir!
What an elegant solution to your measurement problem! Well done!
What a beautiful job! that bias lever was really brilliant! Please keep these works of art coming!
Love the fixture work on this channel, keep on passing out cool ideas man :)
You are an artist, truly amazing to watch.
That integrex really is a versatile machine and I admire you for the creative ways to use it!
very clever tool, i like your choice of machine tools, and you got me thinking about a tool i'm designing, thank you.
Simply elegant simplicity! Awesome!
4 jaw chuck FTW!
Your Intagrex is one awesome machine. I see these types of machines a fair amount doing my job but nobody utilizes them like you do.
Great videos Peter. Thanks for making them.
Beautiful and thoughtful work as usual.
Nice job Peter, very impressive. That linear slide was a great find allowing you to do both measurements with one tool.
Simple, elegant, practical design. I like it. Nice to see a machine shop full of real CNC machines from Japan. Not the HAAS sort. Great videos, thanks.
Awesome tool Peter! I love your videos! I make a simple tool-setter to use in my VMC's that uses a 1/2/3 block, and Federal .0005 resolution indicator, combined with a machined housing to hold the indicator. This accomplishes the same thing you use a pin for when touching tools. The point of my comment: thank you for sharing your method of fixing the indicator position in your tool! I am absolutely going to steal that! Right now I use the dreaded set-screw (just like you mentioned). I use a brass-tipped screw, so it does not mark up the indicators affixing post. But, what it does do is: actually affect the action of the indicator. If I snug the screw up enough that I don't think the indicator will move, the action gets stiff because it compresses that post. And, this does not take much tension at all. far less than I like. I have had it move on me a few times. So, I am constantly checking the calibration, which is annoying after a while. I think your method will solve that problem. Thank you!
Thanks! I'm glad I could be of help with your idea.
Very nice, well thought out.....I can hold my own on manual mill but your work is right out there.
Thanks for sharing! I Look forward to watching your other videos.
Peter, you are one smart fellow. I hope I'll get the opportunity to work with such a beastly machine as that Mazak. Much respect!
Hi Peter what can I say but amazing back in the 70s when I had my own little repetition engineering business I had to hold a tolerance of .01 mm not easy. that is a beautiful comparator a toolmakers piece of art. keep healthy.kind regards Nev
Brilliant! Especially the spring bias!
Clever and cool...Again, I learned something from our videos... Thank you
Very neat design and nice Work. Thanks for sharing.
man o man. that must save a LOT of time. WELL DONE.
As always, nice job!
The spring lever is bad ass!
I will be blessed if can be your student, this is Art with love.
Thank you for this video.
Massively impressive!
Very clever!
I love it! :)
You are genius!
At least, very bloody clever!
I love the chipmunk Edit.
Very educational - thank you!
Wow!! All tailstocks should allow for vertical adjustments! So many head aches could have been prevented from the use of so many shims...
Very clever design!
The adjustment happens to be in the vertical direction because that's the way the turning tools are oriented. Or in other words the X axis is vertical. There is also a adjustment parallel to the Y axis that is very similar to a conventional tailstock with a adjustment screw. This is necessary in order to make sure that any milling is aligned to the axis of the work piece.
That's real slick i like it.
Why CNC why,,,, I feel jealous when I see CNC working.
Awesome video thanks from the heart 👍👍
I've watched quite a few CZcams videos, and this one is easily one of the best. So good. Thank you. You clearly thought through this tool very thoroughly, so you likely considered adding 2 pins to the fixed jaw (or both jaws for that matter) to eliminate the need to "sweep" the diameters. Any reason not to do this?
Very nice tool .I do hobby work with flat belt machines from 100 years ago. I wonder what the old boys would think of the kinds of machines you use. I bet they would be amazed.
good!
best tool and job 👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
That’s awesome!
Ingenious!
Thanks for your comment about set screws!
Ooo i would of liked for you to explain the process of indicating that turn table in . That is brilliant.
Hi NIce job, do you not use OML or Geradi vises with pull down jaws or OML Sintergrip they must be good to hold aluminium with minimum material to cut away after.
Really nice design, maybe some imbedded magnets on the pin holding fingers would help with placement of the tool. The possibility on dropping the tool can be reduced and it attach itself flush with the part.
Maybe on steel but this material isn’t magnetic enough to hold.
Who makes your favorite slitting saws for the part-off operations?
That's dope...
nice work.
Genius!
Nice side cutter parting.
In this video, i see the trunion and the 5 axis work stop being used for the first time since I watched those build videos. Man, that is a machine and you are its master. Not only that, you just built the coolest specialized measuring tool I have ever seen. Do you have any job openings? I promise not to get in the way. Honest!
Never thought I'd see a 5 axis turning center with manual chuck.
Nicely done! Its impressive what tolerances these cnc machines can hold. (with the right operator atleast )
Rakh c You should be able to hold tolerances of .0001" with some effort. + - .0005" is not hard. This part has some tolerances of -0.000 +.001".
Great video and great tool! Love the spring switch tho change the direction of measurement. How exactly do the indicator clamps tighten?
Kristian Thompson Silva They have a 4-40 socket cap screw from the side.
Nice machining, as usual, on the measuring tool. Is there a reason you just didn't use the renishaw?
Beautiful gage! Do you think you could make it a little easier to handle by embedding a couple magnets in each arm that would serve to force the gage flat on the work surface? If I tried to think hard enough to design an instrument this fine, the EMTs might have to shoot me up with TPA.
good work
I love the vice mount! Did you make it? Great video as usual!
Peter another faboulous video of a modern machinist (no offence to all the manual guys) you are doing the real stuff it would seem - that Mazak is an amazing machine - I don't suppose there is a HAAS equivalent ? I note you use Haas at home - someone will sponsor you channel -it is really great inspiring stuff - you've just m,ade something that looks like it would do starett or mitutoyo very proud.
Nope, nothing Haas makes is anything like this.
Genius.
Thank you for sharing another great video! I was curious at about 3:54 where you are indicating back and forth the Kurt surface and then the trunnion surface in Z (?) axis. If you had found an unparallel indicator reading there, what would you change on the machine to adjust that reading? I hope my question is clear. I'm assuming that since you had the trunnion zeroed in the 4 jaw, that that isn't where you would adjust?
Thank you.
Metal Illness I would adjust and did adjust the tail stock to get it parallel to the Z axis. On this machine there is a cam adjustment built into the tailstock. You are very observant thanks for the question.
Otherwise really nice and efficient design but is there some reason why you didn't do the fixed jaw with 2 pins? That way the ID measurement would be much easier.
You know I didn't think of that. Because this is a dedicated gage being set on a ring I could have done that. I just was doing what GageMaker does because they set theirs on babe blocks. That's a good idea for next time.
Thanks for sharing. Do the tips on the measuring tool have the same contour as the finished profile of the groove?
Tom Clements Yes the carbide tips are ground with a 23 degree taper like the groove has.
Thank you for making this video. Would you be able to use this thing without any major modifications/improvement of you were to get a identical part but with1/4" larger grooves ?.
Possibly I did make it specially for this size. But it may have that much travel.
Hey man.. cool tool you make... do the customer pay for you making the gauge tool? or do you pay for it because in out shop we would not have the time or money to make a fine tool like that for a cuple of parts..
nikolaiownz I think he uses it on more than one job. Unless the customer promises him repeat work on the specific part over and over then you can make hard tooling like that and it would pay for itself.
Awesome
And.. I forgot to ask.. did you blast the outside? Or scotch-brite?
I used scotch-brite on the top part.
Great toolmaking! The amount of time spent on making that piece makes me wonder about the price of the parts you are making, and the number of parts. For less than 10 parts I can't imagine getting a price that would cover it, but your customers might be know the value of quality parts and also might be willing to pay for it.
These parts are going to be repeat jobs so its worth it to spend time to get it right. The former way that this groove was checked. Cut the groove undersize. Get a inspector to bring the Romar arm out to the machine set it up measure the part than be present at the machine while you run the tool into the final dimensions. With this tool it doesn't require all that. Also you usually have to wait for the inspector the whole process took about a hour to cut one groove. Its that boss in the middle that makes this a difficult measuring job. But not now with this gage. Another thing I don't really trust that Romar arm for this kind of measurement hanging into the machine from a tripod on the shop floor next to the machine.
I understand more of it now. The hassle with the inspector and Romar arms plus a repeat job definitely makes it worth it. The tool is quite ingenious.
Nice, work I splashed the cash on a gaugemaker API 6A gauges. What are you using to protect the threads?
If you are talking about this part. The customer has special rubber things to protest the threads. In general I don't do any final shipping of parts so i don't have to worry about thread protectors.
What a fine job! - will the shop temperatures alter the readings say midday and night?
Because this is a reference gauge. It should be checked for its calibration just before measuring. Now this gauge does have aluminum elements in it. But just for the sake of discussion lets say the gauge was made of steel. Now if your reference set gauge is also steel and calibrated at lets say 68 degrees F. Now if the temperature changes in the shop so will the reference set gauge. So in theory the set gauge will either expand or contract according to shop temp. So if you check the calibration/setting on your reference gauge it should almost eliminate temperature fluctuations. Now this gauge does have aluminum elements in it. So the difference in expansion between the aluminum and the steel set gauge would come into play. If you just set the gauge and never checked it. That is why it is important when using reference gauges such as this or say dial bore gauges to have your setting standard on the bench to check them just before measuring. I see this where someone in inspection sets a dial bore gauge for a machinist. Then takes it out to his machine. He machines the parts without having a set gauge at his machine to check it. If the tolerance is close this is not a good procedure. You always need to check a reference gauge just before measuring with it.
I'm wondering how the customer would check this dimension.
If they toleranced it, they should have some way of checking it.
Do they have a CMM?
Our inspection checks it with a CMM. Many of the things on these parts require a on site witness from the customer while the inspection is being done.
great video. What is the name of the tooling brand you use?
I'm not sure I understand your question. If you are talking about the machine its a Mazak Integrex e650H. Or do you mean the tool holders? On this Machine I use moistly the brands Sandvic and Big Daishowa holders. Or tooling? There are to many to list Sandvik, Iscar, Sumitomo, Guehring, Tungaloy, Mitsubishi to name just a few.
For hand-chamfering holes, is there an advantage to using the super-long lollipop bit vs a normal length one closer to the drill chuck? I've never seen them that long before
It’s just the one I have. That said it has come in handy under certain circumstances, where I had to reach along close next to a wall to get to a hole or into a bore to deburr a intersecting hole on a ID. Stuff like that. I prefer using a burr like this over a c-sink just for that reason. With a burr you can come in at a angle. But you do have to run at low speed or they chatter. Also be carful because they will ride up out of the hole when using them at angles.
@@EdgePrecision I recently did a job that used a small burr (5/32) to edge-break side holes. I quickly found out lower RPM is the way to go. 😁
Thank you so much for your attempt to show the best measurement tools.
I am working in a company producing power steering hydraulic pump. I want to design and produce the ring gauges to control the different dimensions (diameter) of a shaft.
The shaft has the diameters, 10.28±0.02 and 9.10±0.05 and 19.35±0.02 and 10.83±0.02.
I need the gauges that is used many times (for 400 shafts) every day by a CNC machine operator and needs to have bigger manufacturing tolerances compared to the numbers provided by the DIN 7162. Would you please help me with this matter?
I'm sorry. I don't make these kind of gauges. You would be better to go to c company that specializes in making ring gauges. That's what I do when I want a gauge of this type.
Thanks.
@@EdgePrecision Thanks.
impressive, but still: why not machining a solid gage for either diameter?
With A CNC machine its nice to have a number to change a offset. With plug gauges GO and NOGO you can see the gauge doesn't quite go but how much to take off? (This is even more uncertain with tapered features) Now you can sneak up a little at a time but its much better to have a exact number to work to. Also every time you index a insert. On this particular tool I'm running two offsets on e for the large diameter and one for the small diameter. With this gauge I can tell exactly how much to go.
I mean for goodness sake's you even put someone sort of cove type chamfer on the boss that has the pin that holds the spring - what am amazing effort -the precision is incredible -are you sure you're not german.
Brilliant Sir! I would love to be your shadow and just soak up what you forgot. It must be hard to work around us average morons. Thanks for sharing!
Yes,again.I'm here and I got first comment that make I think it's all worthy.I am truly exist.And I woll keep on looking for more practical skills about the work.
Do you program everything? or do you do some conversational stuff?
I use cam software for all my programming. The only thing I use Mazatrol for is to sometimes bore soft jaws.
"It doesn't really matter if these are flush.. I don't think i got this flush (loosens bolts, tries again)" :) and I'd have done the same thing!
On question, given that it was a measurement transfer tool. Why didn't you made a three point gauge?.
I feel better about the measurement if I can rock the gauge back and forth to get a null. It gives me more confidence in my measurement. It's is easier to build. Also the data from the Gauge Maker software uses a two point measurement for its numbers. For these API face grooves.
W. O. W. 😮👌
nice cnc de walt de burr
Your machine is gigantic, how did you move it to you shop ?
Typically you would hire a rigging company to move large equipment. This machine came from a mining equipment manufacture in Milwaukie (This machine was in the small machine part of their shop!) . It took two 18 wheeler trucks to move it to Houston. When it got here I had a rigging company unload and place it in the building.
What software are you using.
The cad software I use is SpaceClaim and the cam is Esprit.
You seem to use mazak almost everytime. Your videos are very good.
Iam getting a mazak j200s, any pointers you could help me with?
Also you always use 4 jaw, any perticular reason for that... Might be a stupid question though but just curious to know
There are a number of reasons. Some of the parts o do require a larger spindle bore than the hydraulic chucks draw tube will pass thru (About 5.75"). I get 6.63 Spindle bore without the draw tube. Some of the ways I hold parts and fixtures requires more travel in the jaws than a hydraulic chuck has. Sometimes I run parts off center. And I like the way I can dial in the runout with the 4 Jaw chuck the type of work I do the time this takes is not a problem. Also the soft jaws are easer to make (If necessary) and available in more different configurations for a manual chuck. The Hydraulic chuck that came with the machine is a 21" chuck. I wanted a smaller diameter chuck for clearance issues. The 4 jaw chuck on the machine is 16.5" this gives me more clearance to be able to use shorter tools. You may have noticed I have a smaller 8" 3jaw chuck I mount in the Larger 4 Jaw. I do this for the same reason when working on smaller diameter parts. You will find with these Integrex style machines a large diameter chuck can be a disadvantage because of spindle face clearance when you are close to the chuck. With a large diameter chuck it forces you to use longer length tools. Witch can lead to rigidity problems.
What are the options you are getting on the machine? Taper number of tools chuck typ. software exc. This would better help give you some advice.
Edge Precision iam pretty much taking a risk getting a mazak... Thts y i just got a basic machine with 8" chuck with 3 jaws, taper type capto c6 & 20 tools capacity
Edge Precision & control iam getting is SmoothG
One thing I see with all these high tec machines you would think they could center or dial in the parts automatically. if you could invent that look how much time you would save having not to dial in a part every time you chuck something up . Just saying.
Some machines can... well sorta... on some of the newer Haas machines if you have the probe system you can literally slap a vise down and probe the x and y and use a G68 to automatically rotate your work offset. we have a UMC 750ss which is a 5 axis trunnion style machine and it is useful for tramming in vises because you can just offset the C-axis rotary a bit to square up the jaw instead of knocking the vise around with an indicator. Saves a bit of setup time when you have a quick job that you just need a Kurt vise for instead of other 5 axis workholding.
that can be done on many machines
there is new equipment and cam now that is capable of probing a part..then going back in to remove more material to be in spec..
11:41
Hey that's the same lathe I have.
Yep, Using The Skills God Gave You, Is Intelegent.
And; You Might, Even Suprise Yourself. This is
Incredible. Intertaining & Learning, Is Important. $ Good Luck.
'Oh' And; Thanks for never, "spouting out, perverted trash talk".
hello did you build this had the function simmilar like thread lead gage pitch measuring? czcams.com/video/wRek5hdQNzo/video.html at 1:53
Yeah, chill out "Shighstkoff"
,,, I think, with the double measurements, you will need gloves to insulate your gauge .
I would say if the tolerances were closer you would be correct. This is a recreance gage to the machined standard. Every time I used it I checked it to the standard. Also it was not in my hands for more than probably 10-15 seconds at a time. Not enough to change the temperature to make a difference. The job is already done and the tool worked fine. Thanks for your comment it is a valid concern.
Can you recommend a mill for hobby use?
Are you talking manual or CNC?
who pays for the coolant
I pay for my coolant.
Hope you got a patent on it. I dont think you care if Someones makes one bit if they build them and start making money its money your idea was used for dont moss out
2:10 You need to talk a little slower. I couldn't follow through that part