I'm quite fond of cold knives. But I only had 2 hives in production this year... Now that I'm at 15... I may consider something a little faster and easier on the arms.
@@BohemiaBees The thing I don't like though is heated knives can burn or denature some the honey if the knife has to operate above 40 Celsius / 104 F >.
@@lagrangebees Great point. I thought it was 130 F when honey microbes begin to break down? I may be wrong on that point but the majority of the honey is never touched by the heated element and so as a ratio even if it did denature a fraction of the honey, 98%+ would still be in raw form. Again I am not an expert but that's my thought on the topic.
Jason, I used the same model Pierce hot knife for my spring harvest. It was too slow for me. It seemed like it didn’t stay hot enough to uncap 8 frames in a row and do it very fast. After uncapping 3 or 4 supers I cleaned it and put it back in the box. When laying it down for very long between usages I had to clean it or the honey and wax that didn’t scrape off would start cooking, bubbling on the blade. I don’t own a big uncapping tank that will hold the uncapped frames like you so I have to uncap 8 at a time to fill my extractor. To be honest I can see where it could work with an uncapping tank that would hold the uncapped frames while the extractor is running. My cold serrated knife cuts great but I take the time to sharpen it so I’m not sawing with it no more than you were either the Pierce knife and it doesn’t tear my comb up. I have to say the Pierce hot knife is the best hot knife that I’ve tried but it’s just not for me at this time. Thanks for the video!
Don, Great comment. I feel the same way. My Pierce Knife burns the honey/wax on the blade if I lay in down too long between frames. I use a serrated bread knife for my 80 plus honey supers.
Good demonstration of both knives. I can definitely see the advantages of the pierce. When I cut I usually try to keep the frame close to vertical or a bit over the other way so that when the cappings come off they fall off the frame instead of sliding down the frame. It may be worth a try to see if it works for you. Thanks for sharing.
That’s all we harvest here. Many push that envelope but until you have a bucket or bottles explode due to high moisture fermentation you won’t understand how critical it is to only take what’s ready and nothing more. Thank you for support and comment
I was curious to ask if glass jar honey will crack if stored in unheated garages in winter? Normally I store it inside but its hard to have enough space for everything when your honey operation starts to work and has volume. I don't normally see this and some buyers seem to like glass over plastic jars. (Although if the glass can't be stored outside then maybe its time to rethink this also.)
It depends. There is a bit of flex to plastic jars and if it does have a slightly higher moisture content and crystallizes it could put excess pressure on a glass jar and crack it open. Most use mason or queenline jars and leaves small amount of room for air expansion. But there is no exact science to it. I’ve had mason jars pop in a cold climate when temperatures fluctuates too much.
@@BohemiaBees Thanks for the answer. What's tricky also added to this is that in my area the glass ones are cheaper than the plastic ones. O.o That makes no sense either. But I kind of like how glass is more anti-bacterial than plastic if I get this part figured out.
That is a fatty 😍frame, we like them. This is one of my winter purchases, besides more boxes to put bees in.👍 😉Wish they made left handed knives.🙃it's discrimination I tell you, all the righties have it out for us.😅🤣
I'm quite fond of cold knives. But I only had 2 hives in production this year... Now that I'm at 15... I may consider something a little faster and easier on the arms.
Lagrange, I was in the same camp until I tried a good hot knife.
@@BohemiaBees The thing I don't like though is heated knives can burn or denature some the honey if the knife has to operate above 40 Celsius / 104 F >.
@@lagrangebees Great point. I thought it was 130 F when honey microbes begin to break down? I may be wrong on that point but the majority of the honey is never touched by the heated element and so as a ratio even if it did denature a fraction of the honey, 98%+ would still be in raw form. Again I am not an expert but that's my thought on the topic.
Jason, I used the same model Pierce hot knife for my spring harvest. It was too slow for me. It seemed like it didn’t stay hot enough to uncap 8 frames in a row and do it very fast. After uncapping 3 or 4 supers I cleaned it and put it back in the box. When laying it down for very long between usages I had to clean it or the honey and wax that didn’t scrape off would start cooking, bubbling on the blade. I don’t own a big uncapping tank that will hold the uncapped frames like you so I have to uncap 8 at a time to fill my extractor. To be honest I can see where it could work with an uncapping tank that would hold the uncapped frames while the extractor is running. My cold serrated knife cuts great but I take the time to sharpen it so I’m not sawing with it no more than you were either the Pierce knife and it doesn’t tear my comb up. I have to say the Pierce hot knife is the best hot knife that I’ve tried but it’s just not for me at this time. Thanks for the video!
Don, Great comment. I feel the same way. My Pierce Knife burns the honey/wax on the blade if I lay in down too long between frames. I use a serrated bread knife for my 80 plus honey supers.
+Daisy's Honey pierce sells a knife holder for when not using it. Thanks for commenting.
The less damage we do to the comb when extracting. The less work our bees have to do on repairs. Thanks for sharing and God bless.
Good demonstration of both knives. I can definitely see the advantages of the pierce. When I cut I usually try to keep the frame close to vertical or a bit over the other way so that when the cappings come off they fall off the frame instead of sliding down the frame. It may be worth a try to see if it works for you. Thanks for sharing.
Appreciate the tip
Great video! we use the cold knife and the roller to extract our honey! Great info
Nice job brother, good looking frames, fully capped 👍 I appreciate the information. God bless
That’s all we harvest here. Many push that envelope but until you have a bucket or bottles explode due to high moisture fermentation you won’t understand how critical it is to only take what’s ready and nothing more. Thank you for support and comment
@@BohemiaBees I've cleaned up that mess before LoL.. good tip brother 👍 good health and God bless
I was curious to ask if glass jar honey will crack if stored in unheated garages in winter? Normally I store it inside but its hard to have enough space for everything when your honey operation starts to work and has volume. I don't normally see this and some buyers seem to like glass over plastic jars. (Although if the glass can't be stored outside then maybe its time to rethink this also.)
It depends. There is a bit of flex to plastic jars and if it does have a slightly higher moisture content and crystallizes it could put excess pressure on a glass jar and crack it open. Most use mason or queenline jars and leaves small amount of room for air expansion. But there is no exact science to it. I’ve had mason jars pop in a cold climate when temperatures fluctuates too much.
@@BohemiaBees Thanks for the answer. What's tricky also added to this is that in my area the glass ones are cheaper than the plastic ones. O.o That makes no sense either. But I kind of like how glass is more anti-bacterial than plastic if I get this part figured out.
I sure like that new hat on your head . I guess your other one is in the mail .😢😢
Lol 😂 yes it’s a different hat
That is a fatty 😍frame, we like them. This is one of my winter purchases, besides more boxes to put bees in.👍 😉Wish they made left handed knives.🙃it's discrimination I tell you, all the righties have it out for us.😅🤣
Lol I’ll sell you a left handed hot knife ;-)