Don’t Hang Drywall Till You Watch This !
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2018
- You only get one chance to do this correctly. See how to properly air seal this critical location in every house that has an attached garage.
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Excellent point, proper sealing in general is one of the most overlooked details in construction. Thanks
Great tip Matt!👍🏻 So many crucial details that a lot of builders don’t do because its not “Code”. Consumers need to realize that building codes or a minimum standard for building. Choose a builder that goes above and beyond minimum standards!✅ Take care, -Paul
I want you to build my house one day... so much pride in your work. I love it.
When I win the lottery and get to build my family's Dream Home, I know who to call. Thank you again for another great/informative video. We love the extra detail.
Excellent video!
Out of curiosity, do any of your clients specify having the electrician run cabling in conduit instead of ROMEX? Would you need to do anything different/special to air seal the conduit then- since trace amounts of air could find their way through the house (depending on where the panel is located and which other boxes with which that conduit links).
Great detail, we struggle in the residential energy area in the north east to seal these garages after they are built and it can be a pain in the rump with the tuck under and attached garages with wrap around knee walls our standards want the zonal pressures to be at or almost 50 pa when doing a blower door. I appreciate seeing what should be there when I am trying to devise a work scope for these areas.
Suppose somebody has an older home already built, and tearing up the garage wall would be easier than the wall in the living space. Could the same concept of air sealing be used in reverse?
Definitely
learn so much from this channel...its always the little details
Great video and critical info
Matt wouldn't the fire rated spray foam be better behind the electrical boxes i believe it's red in color after sprayed?
Good info...thank you!
Great video Matt, but what is the difference between open and closed cell foam? What is your reply to the comments regarding fire relating to the foam?
Hi Matt what siding would you recommend for an ICF wall ?
Never see this done in new builds the walls between the garage and house are insulated(pink) though and coverd in poly does that have the same effect
Great info !!!
Can you show detail on why you did the headers the way you did? Looks different from anything I’ve ever done or seen very interesting
Off subject of this video but what is the best method for getting a good supply of quality framing timber (ie stright non warped )? I find a lot of builders in my area just load up at the local Lowes and everytime I have ever went its a needle in the haystack for that 2 or 3 good board in the stack.
Go to a local lumber yard. They're always cheaper than big box stores (even for home owners) and have better quality material.
Julia Cavaroc They're sure as hell not cheaper round here, much better material though.
Interesting, even what's considered to be our most expensive lumber yard is still cheaper than Home Depot or Lowes.
anyone know why the headers are framed ~6" higher than the final RO?
Would the door be the area where the gases enter your home ? How do you seal them ? Otherwise all the foam is a waste??
Thanks
This gets missed on basically EVERY garage in Australia! Its amazing how far behind we are down under. Also I have never seen in person a house with 6" thick frame walls.
It's majority 90mmx35mm framing down here
The garage/house is remarkably similar to our one story bungalow with attached garage, built in the '70s, here in S. California. Consequently I have a similar problem, but it's not as clearly defined as this new house. A cement block fireplace runs up the wall, morphs to brick above 8' and penetrates the roof just to add flavor. Whomever framed this house was not accurate, but they built a wall in the attic to separate the garage attic space from the house attic space, with a 2'x4' doorway (no door) for access. I've been contemplating what to do, but since '08 when we bought the place, things have changed. Now we have a solar PV system with a Lith-ion battery that hangs off the wall in the garage. Code installation requirements for that unit mean that all combustibles have to be removed from the garage. (within 12'). We also switched from two ICE cars to one electric car years ago, so my answer now to the problem is to ignore it, and re-capture some of the garage space as living space. A level II charger is also in the garage, but close to the overhead door opening. The 16' door still allows us to park an EV inside (or leave it outside but in the sun) to charge. I can see a small carport going up to shade the car, which is now pushed out of the garage pretty much always. A carport over the driveway can infringe on the 15' (front) set-back that would otherwise limit what could be built. It comes down to recovering from the garage, another 200 ft2 or so, of living space added to the house, assessed around here at $251/ft2. That's $50k in equity, it the modifications can be incorporated into a useful floor plan, and permits can be acquired.
Matt, have you had any conversation about the advantage or disadvantage of using spray foam, either closed or open cell foam in the future when it comes to rehab? Will rehab in the future become increasingly difficult because of this Choice, even if it is a good choice for the present?
I’ve not done anything on that but it makes an interesting video idea
Matt Risinger excellent, I just thought it might be an interesting discussion, I realize that you build your houses for the long game, but just because something works and we think might be timeless now doesn't mean there won't be changes in the future.
086agent yup and then as I was thinking about previous videos after that, I was considering the spray thumb used on stairs and roof lines and all kinds of various other things
Most historical restoration sources I've looked into (not including "This Old House") tend to shy away from using Spray Foam because it is not easy to remove if necessary.
Guys the code doesn't apply inside the wall cavity as it relates to fire. 1-2 hour wall is all that the requirement states. So drywall on its own is not applicable unless it is x rated/fire rated.
Hanging the wall before the ceiling is the first mistake.
Hanging 85% of the wall is the second mistake.
I not a contactor by any means but I just had a thought
What if there was a fan like the whole house fan that would evacuate the fumes air out of the garage before the back door was opened into the house
Get gravity working for you. Hot air rises inside structures. Rooftop exhaust fans are splendid additions to garages that have roofs... like mine. And, THANK FULLY, I have no connecting passway directly between garage and house. There are all sorts problems with that, and little need ... in soCal where it never rains.
Hey Matt! 1st time Net Zero Ready builder (and aspiring CZcamsr) here coming at ya from South Bend, IN. Have learned a lot from your vids and appreciate your knowledge and evident faith. Anyway... to my question... you're only needing to separate the garage attic from the house attic because this home's attic above the living space is conditioned, right? So in my neck of the woods (with full finished basements under every home) we don't do conditioned attics - only vented. That said, there would be no reason to separate garage vented attic from the rest of the home's vented attic, right? It's all connected and unconditioned and vented, so any fumes from the garage, even if they were to meander into the attic above finished space, it's all going to vent out the roof anyway. Just making sure I got that right.
I've noticed on more high end houses, they actually kindof make the garage almost a separate building. But they still have a sort of attic bridging them to the main building. What's the advantage of that?
A covered walkway from the garage to the house? Can’t have Fifi getting rained on after a visit to the canine beauty salon.
badlandskid but built like an attic though? It just seems like extra material if it's just a walkway
Dexter Colorado hard to say. Maybe that’s how the architect designed it to keep continuity or to keep rooflines simplified. Maybe it is where all the utilities are hidden going to the garage. The possible reasons why are numerous.
badlandskid personally I would just let the underside be like a cathetral ceiling. If it's to pass cold air from the main building, I'd rather just get a small unit.
I believe they do that to still consider it part of the same building. If it was completely separated or detached they would require even the electrical requirements differently. It would need to have a disconnecting means or a separate meter even in some locations.
When you spray around an electrical box, how do you prevent any foam from entering the box?
Tape over any large holes
Mask the box 😂😂
At least in Michigan fire code for a garage is 5/8 on the fire wall and ceiling
Hey Matt, What kind of door hardware would make it air tight? I am looking at automatic door bottom but not sure what's best.
Look at the systems from Endura. Your local Millwork shop can use their parts to weatherstrip the door to be very air tight
There are soundproofing systems that might double as a gas barrier. Very fancy and expensive.
Smoke seals as used on a firedoor would be the obvious choice, as the door would need to be fire-rated.
Great 👍 tips! It should be done this way in the other countries too!
I'm more and more convinced that detached garage is the way to go.
Check your insurance policy fine print. Your unattached garage may lack some benefits. But I'm with you, I admire the free-standing garage concept. In earthquake country, moreover, heavy living quarters above a garage cavity threatens life and limb. The Ph.D. structural engineer who lives across the street from me sheer-walled his tract house (original construction 1964) in 2000, when he rebuilt it. He has two bedrooms above his garage.
There is a reason why 99% new construction in north east has an attached garage. That detached isn’t so fun when it’s freezing out and storming.
Similar to next door. The neighbor wants me to sheetrock her garage and loft above. She has been in the house for at least ten years and yet the garage is bare studs, and the door into the living space is [I kid you not] a swinging pantry door. The house is so squirrelly I cannot imagine how it pa$$ed final inspections. I'm not sure I can actually make a 1 hour barrier, there are so many penetrations, HVAC etc.
Great ways to minimize pollutants in an attached garage from getting into the house.
Is that foam fire rated? They make us use a fire rated caulk. They would never accept that foam for fire rating reasons.
It's air sealing reasons not for fire penetration. Fire penetration protection still must be done. Although honestly the air sealing stuff takes care of most of that. The reason is fire needs air flow to spread, stop the air flow and you starve the fire of oxygen. This works even if you use combustible materials (thus why we put wood fire blocking in walls). This is one of the main properties of fire caulk, it expands when it gets hot, further air sealing any penetrations. The reason that you still need to do fire penetration protection with spray foam is that is the presence of enough heat the foam can melt. This could open up an air path allowing oxygen to get to materials that are above their ignition temperature.
Ok. Where I'm from, we have to have a 20 minute fire rating between the house and the garage. And foam doesn't work for that. At least not to our inspectors.
Fire-rated drywall is good for an hour. Regular 1/2" is good for about half that. Not sure what they're using here.
Pete Brown the stuff we use to seal around boxes and penetrations also has to be fire rated for 1 hour.
This is a good discussion. You can also get spray foam with a fire retardant. It's possible that's what Matt used.
The closed-cell stuff I used in my basement office is also rated class 1/A ASTM E84 fire retardant without any additional retardant added. It's usually self extinguishing, but as is the case with most closed-cell foam, I haven't found any info on an actual fire rating with a specific time. I suspect the open cell stuff would burn much more quickly given the nature of it.
Importantly for me, the closed cell stuff I used also does not grow mold, sag, or absorb water, unlike the fiberglass that used to be down here (when I removed that stuff it was nasty because it was right up against a block wall, below grade). Also helps keep out pests. Would be good to better understand the fire rating, though.
That wall needs type x 5/8 fire rock big mistake if not.
I like the idea but won’t air leak around the door?
Most are built like one leading outside because they tend to have less insulation
I'm all about being extra careful & over-building things, but how long do smart people idle their vehicles inside the garage? I open the overhead door, start the car & pull out in under 10 seconds. Nobody is getting gassed unless they're idiots, idling inside an inclosed space.
Like Matt said, garages become natural collection centers for things that stink and out-gas. I'm with you on the car thing, and quick exits. Especially if there's a Tesla kept in there, away from thieves; there's no stink. In the old days, cars stank ALL the time, from leaking this or that. More to the point, people in soCal will drive on the freeway, and bring a blistering hot car into the garage in the late afternoon, where it cools off and ... outgasses (whatever) all at the expense of the interior of the garage environment.
S Paul a lot of new cars have remote starters that sometimes get turned on inadvertently by little ones playing with the key fobs, accidents happen. People store gas cans, kerosene, lawn mowers, etc.
Well guess what Chief. Smart people open the door before they start their vehicles.
So there're no issues with fumes.
Of course in this day and age, some people are too stupid to remember that they have infants in the car with them when they go into the bar or off to work, only to find out later that their kid's brain has been fried from the heat.
So there needs to be extra codes in place to protect idiots from themselves.
DEEREMEYER1 how did this home builder separate the house from the garage in a "half assed way"? What does a garage door opening and closing in 10 seconds have to do with anything? Insulation alone is not a vapor barrier, it's part of a wall "system" such as Sheetrock, vapor barrier, insulation, more Sheetrock or osb, etc. and finally, how can you say "this home builder doesn't seem to have ever learned how to do anything right"? Maybe you should go get educated on some of the new practices that are more efficient and better. Matt is very particular on how he builds his homes for customers, almost obsessed, wish more home builders were like this.
Sometimes you have to face it this world is full of idiots
I think fire blocks are pre wall insulation
I have always recommended a airlock type mud room with two doors. Helps keep heating and cooling in the house. Can't count how many home I go through the garage door and feel all the cold air escape when you open the door.
Good idea, there is a positive air pressure inside house created by the AC that wants to escape when you offer an escape route by opening door. Just like an airplane at cruising altitude or a space ship, hence the airlock analogy.
PS: Doesn't the same thing apply to all points of egress from living space?
Doesn't spray foam over electric wires risk them heating up?
Jollyprez no
Interesting question. This might be addressed by the National Electrical Code.
Not if the boxes/wires are properly sized- it shouldn't- considering that they are expected to be inside the insulation of the wall structure anyways.
What if I wanted to incorporate the garage as a normal part of the house for a 100% electric vehicle only? This would be for a new small build.
Unfortunately, ICE vehicles will be with us for decades to come, and real estate has a life of its own. Your resale value will be low, because your garage will be overly customized, to put it politely. That's a violation of a principle of real estate, if not building code.
Thanks for the reply. This really bums me out because I want to maximize space with as small of a footprint as possible. Land is very expensive where I live and was hoping to cut cost a lot by trying to get a very small plot.
I know it's costly but why didn't you use pipes to put the wires through? When it be easier to pull a wire out or replace a wire?
me me they're not planning on replacing anything. No reason to spend extra money.
Book of Stories with new things that could be added or new switches or outlets that might be needed to replaced that could happen with new things that could be added or if an electrical issues that could happen is why I would have done that
"Tube it!" This is what happens in commercial re-builds of interior spaces in ClassA multi-story office buildings. "The higher the tech, the shorter the lifespan." That's another of my maxims. And since infrastructure cabling is moderately high tech, it lasts a decade or two before becoming obsolete. Who doesn't remember how RG-59 was ubiquitous in the 1980s, only to be bettered by RG-6 in the 2000s? Still, tubes can present huge passageways for toxic gases.
me me I understand. If you want to spend the extra money to pipe in your electric that's fine. But most cookie cutter builders would seriously eat into their profits because home buyers just don't care about that and aren't paying a premium for that feature. If installed right you shouldn't really have any electric issues. Most new plugs and switches are built to fit in the current standard boxes so no need to replace anything.
Especially if an apprentice hammered a staple a little to much into that Romex and it caused a afci to start tripping. That would be a nightmare to fix. Conduit with seal maybe.
Before drywalling the garage, cover all the walls and ceiling with foil vapor barrier, and tape all the seams. The nasty vapors and fumes from the garage's contents are going to seep through the walls and ceiling and pollute the rest of the house.
Planning a house? Unattached garage is the way to go! Concerned about the weather? Connect the garage and house with (nothing more than) a covered walkway.
Haven't you talked about this 2 other times? Not hating, just feel like I'm going crazy. Keep up the good work Matt
Good job on ferris bueller's day off!
lol !
Your framer messed up on header height
I hope that any real drywaller watches this video and laughs till he pukes lol!!!!!! To funny
This was hilarious!!
ONN the BUILD SHOW.
Attached garages are the most ridicules aspect of modern construction. You touched on one aspect and the way to "partially" prevent the problems. Some of the other problems,easier for a thief to break in to the house unnoticed,fire spread,not to mention how they clash with most designs. They shout to the world,a car lives here. If you must place a garage close to a home,connect it with a breeze way,not a door.
We have a conected garage it never has a car parked in it. Unless its being worked on. A detached garage would be such a pain in the a**. Expecially if i wanted to park in it.
Why not putty pads? You've recommended them in the past and they block noise, air and fire... and arguably much cleaner in terms of toxicity. Spray foam (closed and open cell) is highly toxic to humans!
Btown B and they come in a fire rated version. “7 in x 7 in x 1/8 in fire stop putty pads are designed to protect electrical outlet boxes. Applied to the backside of electrical boxes to maintain the integrity of 1 & 2 hour fire rated gypsum walls. In fire conditions, the pads expand to form and intumescent char that encloses the electrical box and seals off any openings that may allow the spread of flame, smoke, and toxic gases. Applications include in multi-family and commercial construction. The Fire Stop Putty Pad is tested to ASTM-E90, has a STC Rating of 49, and a intumescent activation of 220 degrees Fahrenheit.”
Jim K I know... 😀 that is why I posted the question to Matt!
Jim K. Thanks for sharing.
6" of closed cell?
Brandon Crow probably misspoke given he was talking about open and closed cell
How high are the ceilings and doorways in America? Or is this guy like four feet tall or something?
It seams like a good idea, to exhaust the garage air with a exhaust fan, that would be timed for 10 minutes.
No, hot cars parked in a garage can outgas for hours.
John Becich Humm. I didn't know that. I've lived a home with an attached garage.
All of that is great but it should be a firewall done with Sheetrock not plywood that's the best way if you do have a fire but it dose keep the carbon and the smell out but not fire half ass should be a firewall Sheetrock 5/8 fire rock gives a 4 hours 2 layers gives you 8 hours do it right stay safe
SHEETROCK!
Fk does this have to with drywall hanging
Dude if fumes can get through you won't pass a fire inspection!
if u go that crazy about air control. u mite as well not have an inside door to a garage period.. just doors that exit outside of a garage period... having a 7' x 3' garage door open for even 1 minute completely cancels out the attic area. in my own opinion the attic air would never interfere with the below air. if it does than you should never have a direct door from house to garage. its basically a 8x4 sheet of plywood being opened every time u enter or exit the garage or house. the above space would be minimal in the amount of exposure compared to a hole the size of a peice of plywood bring open even for 1 minute. its overkill unless u actually handle chemicals constantly. wich still. the door is a big hole to the house.
shit. im wrong. sorry matt risinger. yall build in the south. and you may have heat or air in your attics. sorry. i will admit it. im a dummy
im from iowa
I just found your channel a couple weeks ago. I love your videos, there is so much useful information. However, this video will not apply for me.
I'm working on designing a contemporary house where the "garage" and interior living space are one. There will be no walls or any barrier between the two. Where the cars will park, the concrete slab will be sunken down, with a metal grate floor flush with the rest of the floor. Underneath the metal grate flooring at the end closest to the exterior of the building, there will be an industrial strength exhaust fan hooked up to a run of sealed ducting leading to the exterior of the house. Basically it will function the same as the floor of a downdraft paint booth. When a car pulls in, the fan will turn on automatically and extract all the exhaust fumes.
00HiGhGuY00 that seems like overkill hahaha
Hmmm. Not sure about that.
It may be overkill, but better safe than sorry. You wouldn't want exhaust fumes filling up the house. I've seen designs that incorporate the garage and living space in one and love how it looks, though I don't know what they did about exhausting the fumes. IMO, a high end car, or custom built car is just as much art work as traditional art, why not showcase it.
Wow. What an interesting contributing comment! I have two complaints against your idea, and I suppose there could be more if I tried harder. (1) Your system fails a "passive" test; it is utterly dependent on the functionality of your exhaust fan equipment and electrical power. (2) Hot gases will rise up rapidly and escape the giant sucking sound below the floor. For this same reason I never like the idea of a downdraft exhaust system at a kitchen cooktop; but I never spoke from experience on that, to be honest.
Gravity is the most reliable thing in the universe and I never like to fight against gravity, if I can help it. I design accordingly. Mostly pertaining to drainage of dirty water. But air and stinky gases are fluids, too.
Paint booth pollution lacks the hot-gas problem so it's understandable that your concept is appropriate for paint booths. Do paint booths scrub that air, before blowing it out into the environment?
(1) If the power is out, you will know it. Simply don't start the vehicle. Or if you really need to leave, manually open the garage and push the car out. Not very convenient, but lets be real, the amount of times that scenario presents itself will be very few. (2) I'm pretty sure a fan as powerful as I'm talking about, like used in a downdraft paint booth, will be able to overcome hot gas's natural tendency to rise. I could also just as easily put the exhaust in the ceiling. Perhaps I'll have it simulated in a CFD program to be sure. Also, a real world test could be done by hanging a carbon monoxide detector directly overhead.
and yes, professional paint booths do have exhaust filtration.
My comment is I do not like living space at same level as garage floor.
I insulated my entire garage with spray foam
Love it but don’t all the fumes from paint and gasoline cans enter when you open the six foot door.
I get why people use spray foam, but isn't it also very flammable? I would rather take a hit in efficiency with the knowledge that my walls aren't filled with an accelerant.
That is the most ignorant thing I’ve heard all day
That seems a little excessive to me? It's not as if you are giving an example of it being a garage that a mechanic has a dyno in it or something?
Most people will drive in and turn the engine off within 2 seconds...
Quick question, why hasn't the US construction industry moved over to metal studding to separate rooms where you have load bearing joists? It's a hell of a lot more to frame a house with wooden studwork these days.
I know it's how you guys do it and it's safe, but for someone used to brick I'll never be comfortable with what looks like neatly stacking bonfire timber and living in it.
Don't you guys have the nursery story about The Three Little Pigs ! It obviously scarred me for life :)
Excellent video! but if you do this type of wiring in Europe (Belgium 220v) it's a NO GO
Every one of those sheets was hung wrong .
corporate world woke slave the video should be call how not to hang drywall
What kind of drywall hanging is this? Bahaha
Here's the question that everyone actually wants answered. If I handle all the upper managing, CAD my house and get it checked, negotiate my rates smartly, and go with contractors that are going to follow the building practices you recommend, what are we talking about in terms of $/sqft? Let's even narrow it down to a simple American family 4 bed, 2 bath open concept with a garage and a study, economy floor plan.
That would vary greatly with factors such as materials used and location.
Atlas WalkedAway holy big house!!
Southern central Texas climate, materials according to his recommended practices, 20 year shingles or a metal roof if he ever recommends those. Look, it seems like theres no "average" cost for a home, but that's a consequence of scale and lack of access to numbers, that's why I'm asking someone who might have exposure to those numbers.
He is going to be on the high end of pricing for sure all his stuff is overbuilt and highend and thats the image he trying to sell.
Atlas WalkedAway in the NW you're looking between 200k to 350k mostly dependent on your finishes and how much you do yourself
In the Pacific Northwest, we have been doing this for at LEAST 15 years! We have the framers install 1/2" OSB on the warm walls (garage side) then seal all penetrations with close cell foam. Then your sheet rockers don't have to come just to install one wall.....they just sheet rock the garage with the rest of the house.
Great tip Micah!
This makes more sense as drywall is not an air barrier. I foam the warm walls and ceilings entirely of the garage.
I don't remember subbing and I noticed no alert bell for notification, and I just received a notification, how odd. Anyone else?
I’ve taken hold of your computer for my evil purposes! (Actually I’m not sure what happened)
So is the door leading from the garage into the house 100% airtight if not what a fucking waste of time
OR! Just don't store hazardous chemicals in your garage. In fact, most aren't even necessary.
Michael Self so no cars in garage?
Good point, but the house I'm building, I'm designing the garage as living space and will park them right outside under a carport - and even that "garage" will be a separate building that will help create a courtyard between it and the house.
Who would not know this ?, and spray foam is super deadly , not to mention firefighters don't like it , that shit is like napalm , rock wool is what us professionals use !
Spray foam is the devil it eats any wood it touches.
But the devil loves to fish so I use it in a lot of my makeshift ice houses.
What? You don't like cyanide gas when the place goes up in flames? Spray foam is all over the south, unfortunately.
@@justinczichray1682 I thought rockwool was dangerous to your health and is some what similar to asbestos
In the '90s in Canada, to "maintain the integrity of the vapour barrier" the supply store had plastic boxes made to enclose electrical boxes that had to go on exterior walls. You still have to cut a slit for the actual wires to get in and out. We started eliminating electric runs on all exterior walls, it's not that difficult to add a box that's easier to install, nearby.
In a garage, you can surface-mount some receptacles too.
This should be code
Isn’t the ceiling supposed to be hanged before the walls
I would like to see your installers install sheetrock without cutting all the freaking wires. That rotozip is a dangerous tool for installers. They cut everything.
👍🏻
blablablablablablabla!!!!!!!! I like the stagger sims in drywall ????
What the heck did that video have to do with hanging drywall?
Those two clowns building their own SIPs house in Idaho should really watch your channel. 😂
Pure living for life?
Anthony Brusca not a nail in that house! they love screws... I can't watch anymore.
Y’all are cracking me up
Bet ya all those screws they only preset will be three episodes, two broken impact drivers, and one complaint about working 16 hours every day.
Not to mention they aren’t even living there, everyone knows these “homesteaders” are renting a place in the city
No brainer. Waste of hard drive space.
There is no way I'm foaming an electrical outlet unless it's fire rated like that. Most deathis with fire are from poisonous gases from foam burning, sorry Matt, I like your videos but can't agree with you on this one.
Spray foam is the worst. Use rockwool. Don't burn and no gases.
John Strand he's not using it for insulation, he's using it for air sealing
Yes, that is ok i guess. Just don't use it for insulation. Walls to a garage also need two layers of drywall on both sides. That is for fire protection.
John Strand I mean, it's for insulation, too. I just thought maybe a fluid applied membrane sprayed or rolled into the backside of the drywall would work. Like polyWall BlueBarrier or something. Spray foam has it's place because of it's unique properties. I'd take the foam risk any day because they do have fire retardant, airseals which stops fire spreading, and I can always put sprinklers an deal with the wet drywall aftermath.
Anthony Brusca Well, why not build a wall better. A garage wall is, drywall, drywall, Rockwool 400 millimeter, plastic film , drywall, drywall. Check this video on why Rockwool is good czcams.com/video/ANEwt4WtBAQ/video.html
If you foam the wall fully between the garage and house all the way for foundation to peak, you can burn the garage completely off the house and not even have smoke damage in the house. Spraying foam doesn’t melt when it’s heated. It’ll burn, but it holds its shape and air seal while insulating from the heat of the fire.
contractors should have to certify that they watch your videos
Gotta love the yanks and their half arsed building technics
Wish you were building my house. My contractor doesn't do anything special like this. I did the closed cell Froth Pak recently myself. Thanks Matt!
@ 2:30 just an observation, have the electrician run and secure his wires in the center of the joist.
Who in hell hung that drywall? In one wall I can count at least 6 things that look like an amateur hung it
He keeps saying closed cell foam but I think he means open cell spray foam. It's not uncommon to spray close cell in a house but majority of the time open cell is used.
This seems silly. Overkill. Mechanics work in garages for a lifetime and life a full long life. The little amount of toxins coming from the garage is hardly worth the additional expense to seal it up.
This is crap build a draft stop foam in large amount is bad don't do this ever foam gasses off a lot worse than any fumes from the garage at the least bit car exhaust will kill you quickly the phone cuz it's serious respiratory problems don't believe me look it up for yourself
I definitely won't be subscribing for these HGTV inspired suggestions. As a contractor you could save thousands by installing a motion activated fart fan instead of this nonsense. You should work as a city code enforcer.
Why is Matt so addicted to this horrible foam spray all the time? How to seal the garage: foam spray.
How to silence the wooden stairs: foam spray.
All the time....
Aren't there more ecological alternative to this formaldehyde emitting crap?
Icynene products are polyurethane, not urea-formaldehyde. No formaldehyde in the production. It insulates the shit out of your house, that's why he's addicted to it.
Lisa O'Donnell you said shit. Lol
do I get a youtube time out for that?
There's a dozen other classes of insulation that are equal or superior to this foam in every aspect except possibly ease of application. But longevity, price, performance, and indoor air quality are definitely better.
All urethane based materials have their own issues.
RagingShrimp67 - what dozen other classes are there? I’m about to break ground and would appreciate alternatives.
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