Mazda CX-5 Auto Trans Service. How To Replace Transmission Filter.
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- čas přidán 23. 10. 2022
- How to replace transmission filter. How to replace transmission fluid. How to replace transmission pan. Mazda CX-5 how to transmission service 2013-2024 Mazda cx5. Mazda CX-9 transmission. Mazda CX-3 Transmission
amzn.to/49PYetd - Mazda Transmission Fluid on AMAZON
amzn.to/4ceyCaW - Mazda Grey Oil RTV
amzn.to/43hc2KK - Mazda CX5 Transmission Filter
amzn.to/43tvunx - Non Marring Plastic Scrapers
amzn.to/3vpHwBJ - Dead Blow Hammer
Part 2 HERE… • Mazda CX5 Transmission...
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IMPORTANT* Follow directions on RTV…Usually need to apply oil pan bolts hand tight, wait 30-60 minutes. Then torque to spec. Fill with fluid/oil 24 HOURS LATER.*
Great video....two comments. First the least important - Permatex 80652 RTV Silicone Dissolver can make things easier, taking the old RTV off. Second, the Mazda sealer (grey) you used, is not for transmission fluid, it's for oil. The original RTV was pink for a reason, because it is different RTV. I do not have a Mazda part number for it, since they don't seem to make it easy to find on line. Now you "could" use Permatex Automatic Transmission RTV Sealant (3 oz.), however I have compared that to a Three Bond sealer that Toyota uses for their transmissions (which I have more experience with), and the Three Bond holds up forever. What happens is the fluid starts - essentially - melting the RTV. So you don't have to take my word, just look into it yourself. Trans fluid is very different from engine oil, and it requires a different RTV (which all brands happen to be - pink).
Yep it's threebond 1207C I did it 5years ago about to do it again, starting to see some leakage.
I used permatex, 5 years ago another 50k no issues. One thing that I think we missed in comment is cure time. These products typically have a cure time. Permatex says 24 hours before you add fluid, also 1 hour before you torque down bolts. Torque wrenches are key to ensure both proper tightening but also not over tightening. Thus why the drain calls for a low 25lbs that’s to ensure don’t over tighten.
Well done, thanks for the walk through. It will definitely make doing this myself much easier.
Your video inspired me to change the transmission fluid in my wife's CX-5.
Three things I want to add to make this job easier.
1. I used a large plastic container to catch the fluid. I made 4 and 5 qt marks on the container by adding water to the container. This helped me estimate the amount of fluid I drained.
2. I used a green Scothbright pad to remove the rtv that I could not scrape off.
3. I also used a WIX transmission filter which came with a gasket, no more rtv.
Very thorough and to the point. This is the only video I came across that show how to take down that stuck oil pan. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great info and tips on how to remove the pan and rtv!
Great job and very good video!
Great job.! Saving video for later
i used thread chasers to clean out any residual RTV that collected in the transmission bolt holes. Also put a little ATF on the filter O Rings prior to installing
Good moves.
Should mention/remind to follow the set-up time of the RTV. (You) don't just put it on the pan then mount it to the tranny. It needs to set-up for a few minutes, depending on instructions on the packaging. Amazing Mazda hasn't moved to rubber seals for the engine and transmission
Just did this on our 2017 CX-5. The previous owner did service the transmission but must have used red Valvoline Maxlife which says it meets Mazda FZ however the difference in viscosity is night and day. Not only is OE Mazda FZ fluid dyed blue, it's like water.
how many liters do you need to pour it? you said 5 quart that mean 4.7 liters
Has anyone tried one of the pre-made gaskets that replace the RTV?
Thanks for the well-made video with explanation and part numbers. Possibly the new sealant needs time to set-up? Do you know what the torque spec is for the 10mm pan bolts? (Somewhere I saw 8 ft-lbs but unsure.)
Read the directions on the sealant, but if it doesn’t have directions I treat the Mazda RTV like permatex ultra grey and let it set up. After applying the RTV and carefully mating the pan and the transmission, install transmission pan bolts HAND TIGHT. Then after about 30-60 minutes tighten the pan bolts to spec. I found data that says 2016 cx5 transmission pan bolts at 71-88 INCH POUNDS. I also found data that a 2017 should be at 12 FOOT POUNDS. I did this 2016 in the video to 10 FOOT POUNDS based on my torque wrench and called it good
Thanks again. I got the job done. It does shift better!@@Theocdrepairman
@@fredjoel8113 Great to hear! Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for doing this. I just bought a 2016 Mazda CX-5 for my daughter 2 months ago and getting ready to do a transmission fluid change. May I ask what length extension you're using? I have a 20-in extension bar. Do you think that would reach down there? You seem to have a 24-in or longer bar. Also what type and length of hose do you have attached to that funnel? I can't find one that seems long enough to reach the dip stick and I'm trying to avoid using a pump. Thanks in advance.
I put a funnel down in the tranny fill hole. Then I have a funnel with a flex hose it going into the other funnel. Funnel in a funnel. I bought them from Walmart. I believe my extension is 18-inch but if you have another 6 or 12 inch you should be good and combine the two of them.
@@Theocdrepairman thank you. It looks tight in there so I didn't know that you could get a funnel down there. Thank you for the reply. I'll be doing this on Saturday
Hi I just want to know what is the waiting cure time of the RTV and the torque requirements of the 10mm 16 bolts on the transmission pan ? Thanks
Thanks for commenting! I usually let the RTV cure 24 hours before adding the new trans fluid. Please subscribe
After applying oil pan nuts hand tight….wait 30-60 minutes and then torque to spec. Do not over tighten
...and how did you reset the transmission TCU?
@@_mark_787 . The TCM? Usually just disconnect the battery for sometime. Or there may be manual sequence of key on pedal to floor type things.
@ocdrepairman sorry typo tcu. Theyre charging me 500 to reset it including the tran fluid and filter
@@_mark_787 sounds about right. The fluid is expensive plus a couple hours of labor. I didn’t reset the TCM the shift points seem normal so I didn’t see a need too. But it couldn’t hurt. It just adjust to your driving over time. You can reset it to learn it faster or if the additional fluid causes problems.
@@Theocdrepairman oooh yeah that fluis is VERY expensive IF they sell it to you. Mazda stealership do not want me to buy it, so i had to go to aftermarket oil RAVENOL, they sort of use a multibrand ATF that includes MAZDA FZ transmission fluid
Another comment, I don’t think you touched on RTV cure time. Seems like you went right in and added fluid rather quickly, not sure what Mazda RTV calls for, but permatex, probably the most used and widely available product calls for 24 hours. I used permatex and waited. My concern is due to rushing and time crunch shops don’t always follow this or will try to find shortcuts. That’s crucial to follow the manufacturer instructions especially for cure or very likely will develop leaks over time. Again overall great video, and it’s easy for us to armchair quarterback. I always tell people to make a better video then.
You are correct. I forgot to mention the cure time. What I did in the video is apply the RTV, install the pan hand tight, then torque down the pan bolts 45 minutes later. Then wait 24 hours to fill the fluid. No leaks in 2 years since this. Thanks for pointing this out I will make a note in the description.
Most videos dont show you how to remove the rtv. Thank you!!!!
gasoline softens rtv, and a plastic razor, and later a rag with gasoline, and for the final i use a car painter degreaser, it evaporates in 3 seconds
@TheEdudo Great Comment!
Great video, thanks. The rtv gasket looks very time consuming lol. do you know of a physical gasket that can be used instead of the rtv? It’s silly these manufacturers are now saying trans fluid is “lifetime.” I scoured the CX-5 manual and could not find any trans fluid change intervals. In your opinion, how often should the fluid be changed?
I believe there is an after market kit for a rubber gasket, but I usually decide against changing it up. (I have always used RTV if it was originally used). I live in mountains so I think it puts more wear on the fluid and transmission. I would change at least the fluid after about 50-60k (or after warranty ends) if it’s dirty. If at about 75-100 it is dirty again I would change fluid and filter. I did this job at 80k and the fluid could have been freshened up earlier than that. I would think the original fluid would be good for at least 50k and then think about changing it every 25k because some residual old fluid will remain after each change. I would change the filter before 100k imo. If the fluid is low, smells burnt, or is black I would consider changing it.
@@Theocdrepairman thanks!
Great job. Does Mazda have a gasket for the trans? Curious.
I don’t think Mazda does, I think aftermarket does.
Mazda will sell you a similar rtv sealer tube, no gaskets
While the CX-5 was redesigned in 2017, does anyone know if the powertrain is the same as the 2016? I know cylinder deactivation started with the 2018 model year.
I am unsure of the specific details, but it looks like there is an additional engine trim on the second generation "2.5L Skyactiv-G PY-VPTS I4-T" which must be the turbo version. The transmissions are the same it would appear also (at least the same codes) The same engine/trans codes are across both generations for what its worth.
Dude I have the same mazda n frontier
Hi, may I know which brand of ATF is best for mazda cx5 2.2 diesel? I just reach 110k and 5 years. how about motul ATF?
I always go with Mazda brand fluids for everything except engine oil I use Castrol for the Mazda. I’m sure other brands are fine to use but why risk a potentially incompatible formula? This transmission process will not remove all fluid so if you switch brands then the fluid in the transmission will be a mix of two different brands. Probably fine, but I wouldn’t mix them.
Is it essential to do a full service like this or would a simply drain and fill be beneficial but at shorter intervals?
Depending on mileage. Mazda says this is a lifetime fluid (which to me means the warranty of the transmission I think 60k miles). I would say around 60k miles the transmission would benefit from a fluid only change. But if a fluid only swap was completed then I would highly recommend a full service around 100k miles. This vehicle in the video drives on the highways in the mountains so it gets used hard and I completed the full service around 75k miles being the first service completed. This fluid level needs to be checked every so often if the fluid is old because it can break down slightly and lower the fluid level after a long time. Mountain driving vs flat driving will wear the fluid and components more or less. Eventually the filter will need to be changed in my opinion. so I would prefer to change before it before 100k because I likely won’t service it again if it lasts to 200k. Thanks for your comment, please subscribe.
Drain and fill every 30K
Does the AT filter really need to be changed? My relative has 2015 cx-5 with ~70k miles. Can I skip filter and just drain and fill the fluid?
70k miles, a drain and fill would help. If you live in the mountains I would also do the filter now. I don’t think I would wait past 100k to complete the filter change, but it will likely be “fine”
Bro
Ur a legend
Sharper Image
Holy snap
those were Bush eras right
hehhehe
good job tho
I left the car draining the whole day eheheh
lol. They thought they got me with the white elephant gift, no turkeys just ATF.
Great video, very helpful to understand what I may be getting myself into. Question - I have a 2013 CX5 with 118k miles that's never had a transmission fluid replacement (or issue for that matter). Would it be risky to change the fluid at this point, or is that a myth? No hills or towing, driven gently, if it makes a difference. Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the question. When people talk about avoiding transmission services it is because of a situation where the clutch material inside has worn so much that the fluid has become saturated with clutch material and this floating clutch material is still making the transmission operate. In this situation if all the clutch material is removed with the fluid during a service, the vehicle will no longer drive forward because the transmission is slipping with no clutch discs left. ANYWAY, The Cx5 in the video had 80k with lots of mountain driving. I would be interested if you still have an adequate fluid level in your transmission or the condition of the fluid. I would be worried after 118K it could be low which COULD cause poor performance or wear out components. I would investigate the fluid for condition and level. Then I would likely do the service. 118k is not that much over in my opinion. I would be even less worried if the fluid looked decent and was not below the marker on the dipstick. Honestly in my opinion I would want to change that dirty fluid so that it does not clog up the valve body of the transmission. I am no expert so take this for what its worth.
My CX5 has 200,000km, I did the first drain and fill a few weeks ago and the third one today. I felt the engine idle more quiet and gear shift smoother.
Did you happen to change the fluid? I’m in the exact same situation and am wondering if I should do it
What’s the mileage interval? I’m at 65k
@@Theocdrepairmanif the clutch were worn to that point, where changing the fluid causes the car to stop running, could the clutch be replaced? Or is that one of those situations where the whole transmission goes out?
Is the transmission the same 6-speed automatic that used on the newer CX-5'S?
I am unsure. I would assume they are similar. I think they are both sky activ mt manual or sky active drive. They may have differing fluid amounts between the generations if it is different at all.
I have the identical vehicle. I’ve never changed the transmission fluid because I bought into the “lifetime fluid” claims. I now have 140,000 on the car. I’ve heard that if you wait too long to change the transmission fluid, you should just not do it at all because you could cause more issues at that point. Do you agree or should I change it?
Great question/ comment. The first thing I suggest is to take a look at the color of transmission fluid, also the level of it. Depending on how that is you may want to think about a fluid only swap, or you may want to do the filter swap also. My thinking is that I would not want the old fluid becoming less effective (though I have no proof this happens) or gunk up the valve body. I would want to swap out that fluid to some degree. You are absolutely correct about it “could” be bad to drain the fluid. It would be bad if the clutch materials/ were worn so bad that the fluid was actually containing the friction material needed to operate the transmission. This would be the situation you are speaking of. The only way to start to figure it out is to look at the fluid. Hopefully it is just yellowed and darkened to a normal degree. So depending on the condition of your fluid I would be looking to change it. Hope this helps, please subscribe!
Would a rubber gasket work? Or does it absolutely have to be rtv ?
I think I remember seeing some rubber after market gaskets for this application. I would use rtv, but my opinion is to use whatever works. The rubber gasket seems easier, but I have used a lot of rtv in the past with great results so I keep using rtv for things like this. I can’t really speak on the durability of rubber atf gaskets, but I also did have an issue sourcing the correct rtv for this application. That being said, I believe using the correct rtv is the best choice if you want the least chance of leaking simply because the manufacturer used rtv as well.
How long did you drive?
And Mazda doesn't have rubber or metal gaskets like Toyota does?
There are after market gaskets you can buy. I have. I experience with these aftermarket rubber gasket. RTV is used on these Mazdas. I drove about 1 mile away (go through all the gears) and back go up to about 55-60. It took about 4-5 minutes total. Please subscribe! Thanks for the comment!
Might have missed
It but how many miles were on that transmission fluid
About 75k miles
How much in litre / bottle new matic transmision oil are used to change old oil matic transmision?
I used just over 5 quarts for the whole job.
This is my second comment.....I found Aisin has 1281B which Three Bond (the Japanese company that makes RTV for the OEM's) makes, which is reddish-brown, and they say it's for Transmission pans. Amazon has it for $29. However, at this point it's a little late for you (this time)...sorry.
Thanks for your research! We could change the pan again if we need too. You had RTV melt? Did it leak? It was my understanding that Mazda rtv has superior temperature ability even though the color is different, but I could always be wrong. So far no leaking. Thanks, again!
@@Theocdrepairman Yes, it leaked. After about 6 months. And yes, Mazda grey is FABULOUS RTV, no doubt, for applications with engine oil....not transmission fluid. I really did - as you say - research this. I took a 6" x 4" piece of plastic, and made 2" strips of various RTV's, and let them cure on this plastic. I used Permatex black, grey, red, AND their transmission fluid RTV stuff. Also I had bought the Three Bond 1281 RTV. I was rebuilding a Toyota Rav4 trans. around this time. So with all the strips cured I got a small pan and filled it with trans fluid, and put the strips into it. I let it set for about a week. After that amount of time the Permatex black, grey, and red, were "goo" like. I'm saying super soft, and you could press down into them. They were no longer stiff like cured RTV. And around them looked like the edges, and surfaces, were dissolving.
And interesting to note, the Permatex trans. RTV was "better", but it too was softening. The only one that held up near 100% was the Three Bond 1281.
Try it yourself. Do you have any of the Mazda RTV left? Cure a piece, bar, ball of it, and submerge it in a small container of trans fluid. Wait about a week, and pull the sample out. See how it looks. I would be very curious to know how that goes, so please - do tell - if you try it, OK?
Thanks for your detailed response! One question on The one that leaked for you did you use this Mazda rtv for the one that leaked? Hopefully it won’t leak for me, at least for a while! Fingers crossed. I have should have used 3-bond the first time around.
@@Theocdrepairman No.....I used the Permatex transmission RTV stuff, which is red (not that the color matters). I mean they say it is FOR transmission pans. All I can say is it turned to goo. It was sticky even. And yes, it had about 24-36 hours to cure before it saw the Toyota trans fluid.
@@Theocdrepairman What I was MORE concerned about than a leak, was that if some got on the inside of the trans, and then could work it's way into places it shouldn't. Not sure. IF it stayed on the inside of the pan and got into the fluid, the trans filter would probably stop it. It's just the whole situation made me nervous. I took the pan down, cleaned the crap off, and used Three Bond. No issues to report after that.
How many miles did this car have at the time of service? PLEASE ANSWER
Please subscribe! It helps my channel. This vehicle had about 75k miles at the time of service in the PLEASE SUBSCRIBE
Where did you get that digital thermometer; will any food digital thermometer work or do you want something better?
Yep any food thermometer will work. It was a gift a few years ago
@@Theocdrepairman Is there a factory procedure for getting the vehicle up to temperature (122 F)? I saw someone in another video mention waiting 5 minutes after the blue temp light turns off to check but that was for a mazda 3.
@@on1ytheb3stI do not happen to know if there is an exact procedure, But driving the vehicle almost immediately up to 45-50MPH through all the gears and returning back to the driveway with an outside temp of about 55 degrees or so it will be close enough to 122. The blue light simply indicates that the coolant temperature has not reached operating temperature probably like 170 at least 150 I would think. The transmission temperature (depending on model of transmission) will rise at a slower rate than the coolant typically. The best method would be to use a thermometer after a quick drive to accurately measure the fluid temp. I would think a specific procedure would be dependent on air temperature.
@@Theocdrepairman Most vehicles I have ever delt with had some sort of procedure, for example; drive vehicle in urban area for 5 minutes and that should get you in the ball park. Regardless I would think just your typical thermometer with probe should be somewhat accurate, you just got it exactly on the money during your video.
So putting the probe through the dipstick opening is measuring the pan fluid which should be as close as you can get to the temperature sensor on the valve-body right? I've read these transmissions can be underfilled slightly from the factory so before I touch any fluid I want to be sure the reading is dead-on.
@@on1ytheb3st some scan tools can read the tranny temp if you happen to have one but mine does not read the tranny temp unfortunately.
What happens if the liquid level si above the mark?
It depends how high above the mark. I would say if it was substantially higher I would be concerned with foaming of the transmission fluid. Foaming happens when there is too much fluid and is subjected to extra air frothing up creating a fluid that reduces lubrication ability and hydraulic pressure ability. It also adds additional pressure to the system.I’m not sure how much is too much, but I would drain it out until it read correctly. I would be worried if it was like like .25 quarts over, but I’m picky. You could always use a vacuum pump and suck some out of the fill hole.
Thank you very much for answering, it is very helpful
Is that red rtv factory or has someone serviced the transmission in the past?
Please subscribe! Yes it is some sort of red/orange RTV(likely factory). When I made this video we had a big discussion about RTV. Someone mentioned to use Toyota transmission RTV or some sort of 3 bond equivalent for transmissions. Which I think is also red/orange. I’m sure the red stuff is some sort of special transmission RTV from Mazda (probably another available product relabeled). I chose to use the grey Mazda oil RTV as it was all the dealer could get me and I was stubborn about using a “Mazda RTV” I realize now there may have been a better option, but this grey RTV seems to do the job as good so far. I called a few dealerships and anecdotally a few service bay workers told me they just use this grey stuff for transmission stuff. But I think an RTV called “fipg” fit in place gasket made for transmissions might be worth researching for even better results.
Here is the follow up video I made about the grey stuff. czcams.com/video/jB-gE_QLG3E/video.htmlsi=Qx7x11aeh19X8VzV
@@Theocdrepairman my daughter and grandson are visiting us and I’m servicing her 2014 with the 2.5. I noticed when she pulled up a squeak noise coming from engine area checked the belts and the a/c alt belt had a lot of cracks in in so I ordered both belts and a new tensioner! Installing those tomorrow And I was thinking of servicing transmission on her next visit. So your video helped so I know what to get for that job. Thank you for responding
How many miles on the old fluid?
In this video it had about 80k at time of change
Additional thought/comment. Was there anywhere on the box the Mazda grey RTV came in, where it said it is good for transmission pans? You KNOW they DO use grey on the engines, right? And, it is - GREY. And what color was the RTV that was on the transmission pan???? So we KNOW it was NOT Mazda grey, right? Why wouldn't they use it there???
No nothing on the box stated that the grey Mazda rtv was for the transmission pan. I was unable to find the Mazda part for transmission rtv. I had to use something and I had some anecdotal evidence that the permatex rtv did not work for someone, so I decided to go with the Mazda Rtv thinking the detergents and friction modifiers of the ATF would not effect the grey Mazda RTV. I will keep my eye on this vehicle and give an update if/when it leaks. In hind sight I probably should have got 3-bond. I may have been ignorant in thinking the Mazda rtv was just repackaged 3-Bond. I used to use 3-bond frequently with great results many years ago.
@@Theocdrepairman OK....Got it.....please do keep me posted. The Mazda grey is a lot cheaper than the Three Bond 1281
Soo..new fluid is now blue rather than red?
Yep. New fluid starts blue for this Mazda FZ fluid
After changing the transmission fluid, I noticed that it's better to do an AT initial relearn though the service manual does not say so. czcams.com/video/TxU0y1DqTUc/video.html
How many miles did it have? Mine has 83k
It had about 80k when I did it. I do live in the mountains so it is under harder than normal conditions
@ocdrepairman ah ok. I live in PA so there's mountains everywhere and ridges. Always going over some kinda hill. I'm gonna change my own only part that seems difficult is the part with the gasket. Garages charge too much and I know I can do it 👍 thx for the video
@@kalebz8287 be sure to look at some of the comments. The RTV is a specific kind that I did not use, please read the comments to get an idea what I’m referring too in regards to the correct RTV. But the rtv I used has been not leaking so far.
If you are not worried about the filter you could just do a fluid swap and not drop the pan.
@ocdrepairman I'll make sure to get the filter too just cuz. I just bought my 2016 cx5 and I want to baby it lol
... if you just drop fluid, measure, refill, drive and repeat 3x; you should be able to exchange almost all of the old fluid and not have to drop the pan. Sure, just exchanging the fluid does not change the filter, but it also means you don't have to fight w/the rtv gasket. However, 12-15 bottles of Mazda fluid is really pricey, so it's your call. If the gasket fails on down the road, you're doing the job a 2nd time. Again, your call.
UPDATE. 6 months later….Mazda Grey Rtv not leaking.
Mine is leaking on the driver's rear corner after 6 months. Might be the gray rtv might be me. Not sure but might try a gasket for simplicity.
@@-R_H
I will be making a follow up video soon. The one I did is still holding up. Sorry to hear about your problem
@@-R_Hdid you use Mazda rtv?
@@Theocdrepairman yeah Mazda gray. I thought I did a pretty good job too. Maybe I should have listened to the guy who said it's only for oil. I wish they just made a gasket. My F-250 has one
Fak that thing is knocking. Good detailed video. Get some gloves $10 at harbor freight.
Please subscribe to the channel, it costs even less than $10 gloves from harbor freight, feel free to donate also.
Well I recommend the heavy duty 7 mil which are $13.99 for 50 or 9 mil which are $16.99 50 as of today. Even during a sale or maybe a coupon can score them at $10. Stay away from the 5 mil gloves, they will tear. I use those for painting or household cleaning but that’s it. The 7 mil hold up fine during most car jobs. The 9 mil are overkill but I bought a pack to try them out. You’re hands will thank you and you won’t be fighting with the pumice soap to them clean, maybe just your forearms and elbows.
CX-5 is about to roll over 75k so I will probably do the lite version of this, just the fluid. I’ll get the filter at probably 125k and screw with the pan.
Since I am poking fun, less than $20 you can get a 3/8 extension set, longest being 24” which I think will reach that dip stick bolt without having to cobble together a bunch of extensions.
Just for the record
I prefer Craftsman myself, good DIY tools, their newer V series is nice I bought a ratchet and love it. Have a set from 2000s last of the USA made I like and beat up. Ace and lowes honor the warranty.
One offs like these Pittsburg s which also have a lifetime warranty, a snap-on 24” extension is like $100 so this is a good deal.
Again thanks for video, very helpful. it’s easy to armchair quarterback other people’s videos, but also sometimes the commenters have good suggestions.
www.harborfreight.com/super-long-extension-set-3-piece-67975.html
Can i have the fluid link ?
@@Theocdrepairman my mechanic was telling to use the liquimoly transmission fluid any thoughts about that one ?
@@mooauto2388 I only use what is suggested in the owners manual, which is original suggested fluid. Doing the job without a flush leaves a lot of old fluid in the system so I wouldn’t want two different fluids together. It seems like unnecessary risk.
@@mooauto2388 there is a similar fluid to oem, ravenol atf fz but might as well get oem since price diff isnt huge
What year is this CX5?
@@neroyellow 2016. Dont forget to subscribe, Thanks!
I hate that manufacturers put "lifetime" fluid in cars. All that does is "reduce" perceived mx costs and serves no other benefit. If the fluid has a known life (time or mileage), tell me in the manual. In my book, a lifetime fluid's "lifetime" means 7 years (because that is what VW used as a "lifetime" measurement). And because of this labeling, the tranmission fluid change is not referenced in the owners manual
😡
I agree so dumb! I take the “lifetime” to mean the warranty period of the vehicle in this case 5 yr 60k I think.
@@Theocdrepairman my cx-5 is at 75k and seldom sees the dealer 35 miles away. transmission fluid exchange and drive belts/tensioner are in the near, near future.
It’s funny they call it lifetime transmission fluid. Always make sure you change your transmission fluid. I personally recommend every 40k miles. Some manuals with say 90k, but I disagree with that recommendation.
Drain and fill every 30K