"there are many ways of doing things" you are absolutely correct Mr. Pete. In my shop there are three ways of doing things. The Right Way, The Wrong Way, and My Way. Which method I choose depends of the project at hand. Sometimes I'll do it the right way, sometimes I'll do it the wrong way, but in most cases I'll do it "my way"
I totally agree with you. But I have to be careful of what I show in video is because the criticism will become rampant. Actually, they will criticize everything I do, lol. You can’t win. I have to offer them a refund, oh that’s right I didn’t pay anything.
@@mrpete222 You know, we all, even if we're experienced, sometimes learn from constructive criticism. A lot of criticism indeed isn't constructive and sometimes totally crazy and even rude. Of course we like praise, but do we learn anything from it?
@@HemiRod23 And then some of us who are critical just have old timers and evolved into a McGyver type worker/problem solver. Guess people could see me as a hairy wart. Ain't all that darned purty but dadgummit he's persistent and hard to ignore. Lyle gets tired of my constantly aggravating bickering. But neither of us have the strength or wherewithal to do more than ten years after putting up with Spite, the riding lawnmower neighbor,,. Bubba, the classroom klutz who could break wind, swing from the rafters, or crash one lathe and a gear hobber all in a July day. The best companion a man could have works with poppa whenever he can. Little Henry. I'm ready for some casting videos but the weather will not allow that again until at least Thanksgiving. As someone said here not so long ago, there are three ways to get things done... Lyle's way. Professor Petes way. And of course,... You guessed it, Tubal Cains' Way.
This video is “right up my alley” as we say down south. I have a customer who refurbishes dental equipment to new condition. One job requires replacing worn Delrin nuts in ball threaded ACME lifting screws. So far I’ve made new nuts with 3/4-6 single lead, 3/4-6 double lead, 3/4-8 double lead, and soon to be 20mm double lead. (two threads on one shaft). The customer furnishes the very expensive tandem ACME taps and I do the work in my home shop. Delrin nuts are self lubricating and very quiet and the ball screws usually don’t require replacement. It’s been interesting to learn how ACME taps are made.
Hello Lyle, some years ago, I made a new bronze cross slide nut for my Hercus lathe(Southbend clone). I cast up the nut and as the thread was 7/16, it was too small to successfully screw cut. To buy a 7/16' left hand 10tpi acme tap was out of the question, so I made one out of some tool steel, milled the flutes, then hand finished the cutting clearances. When heat treating, it developed a slight bend, even after plunging straight down into oil. Still worked OK. I then screw cut a new cross slide screw to fit the new nut.
I made one handled pieces like that, first I tried cutting the internal threads w a single point ground from drill stock. Challenging indeed! I too used rough cast old stuff found along the way.. bought the taps for 3/8, 7/17, and 1/2 acme. Larger left hand thread. For rebuilding my sb lathe cross slide.. but the single handles were to repair my antique Bridgeport mill. The locks r single handle. Having the tap is such a benefit! Holding such shapes indeed requires sum inventiveness! I used an old c clamp screw like you . 5 hours of sweat equity n my mill has all its locking handles in order. Thank you for such well done clear videos. Please keep up the good works. Oh, I'm now looking for a bench grinder / sharpening lap... 😢
Thanks old man. first time I recall seeing an acme thread tap being used. They are expensive. Another learning experience from Mr. Pete. You're a top bloke !
Going to love this one Lyle Edit: PLEASE lockout before the wrench @5:38 . Bubba might be watching from the circle on the chalkboard that you are having him to hold his nose against till lunch. He's hangry. Just let li'l Henry help with editing your videos because your knowledge can't be matched. We all respect Tubal Cain.
Thanks for using the adjustable wrench backwards if only to spite the life long training that I have yielded to that they are directional. This has recently been a hot CZcams controversy. I have some quality adjustable wrenches even marked in the casting by the manufacturer indicating the correct use direction. I will have to go the the shops to confirm the brand(s). I have often used my adjustable wrenches backwards, but seldom without the internal fear that Dad or an early mentor is watching me, though they are all now dead. Even though a lot of data confirms that direction is not a significant deal, I still can't force myself to really load an adjustable wrench in the wrong direction. Howee's has recently demonstrated on CZcams that a lathe can't throw a chuck key as violently as most of us were taught, but I still can't make myself leave any key in a chuck. I have seen workpiece damage when the workpiece was thrown from a lathe. The bad ones happened in my workplace shop, but not by me. My personal events have been limited to the learning curve on the wood lathe. They were serious enough to elevate my caution and alter my approaches in the machine shop. You admitted that the desirable runout in your demonstration might have been mitigated by an alternative method. I find that one off processes teach you a better way after you have made an unintentional error or caused an unexpected event. Salvaging your only stock or workpiece then becomes a new challenge. I recently made a custom part for a friend and a small oops in the lathe bent the workpiece. I had no more suitable stock. I was able to recover and true and square the critical parts of the workpiece. It left runout in a non critical shoulder OD. Sending the work back including the the runout error irked me, but time and lack of material were critical factors and it went to my friend with an explanation and an apology. A paid job would demand rework. I learned from my oops and may avoid repeating my error. Purchasing a nut from McMaster Carr might have been a better final product decision, but purchased part QC is not fully reliable either. Our shop purchased a fancy Hyd Mech band saw. The three knobbed wingnut was made out of plastic. It broke within a year and likely had more runout than your demonstration. You repeatedly pointed out that your use doesn't demand a prettier part. Accepting the result in that case and moving on is good practice. If we learn from our experience, craftsmanship improvement might demand more care in a a future experience. I my home shop I routinely discover that I have unexpected limitations mid project. Yesterday I discovered that my workpiece exceeded my lathe chuck holding capacity after roughing out stock with a large hole saw. The hole saw left an unexpected deformation that demanded a work holding challenge to true the intended work holding surface. That project plan mistake forced me to change chuck jaws and that completely altered my intended plans, creating subsequent recovery steps. The other jaws held the work, but interfered with my tooling ater I turned the smaller registering OD. I suffered a whole string of "recovery" steps.
People love to talk about and criticize the direction or miss direction of using a an adjustable wrench. I actually did that on purpose. And I actually do not think it matters.
I used a un-machined handle like that to make a speed handle for my milling vise. I held it upright in my mill with a couple of v-blocks and drilled/bored it to a press fit for a 5/8" deep socket. I also milled a flat spot on the top of one of the ball ends to mount a small spinner handle.
Thanks, Mr Pete. I am making a float lock vice for the drill press. I just began to cut 1/2” - 10 Acme threads on the shaft. At 80 years of age, I am not looking forward to using the Acme tap on the jaw.
Your holes off center, it’s wobbling, you should have bored it. Lol . I love all your videos. I looked those taps up you weren’t lying, expensive, glad I don’t need one. As always thank you for your time and knowledge.
Another wonderful video. You’re a good expert person for explaining things I think you made a good shop teacher back in the day. Look forward to seeing more of your how to do videos when they come along. Or projects that you may want to build
Personally I really prefer singlepointing acme & trapez threads, even for smaller dimensions. Boring bars of solid Carbide are wonderful (but breaks instantly if overloaded without warning). One warning if singlepointing, the profile for imperial Acme and metric Trapez are slightly different, don't mix up the inserts!
@@mrpete222 I think that he was alluding to actually making them from solid carbide bars! Very risky. Don't know if I'm that good to brag about it. But professor Pete can do it.
@@mrpete222 probably is a myth....but I think that is I was to put force till failure it would fail one way far sooner than the other.....I will check around for some empirical data.... :-)
@@ellieprice3396 yes exactly,......but here's the thing.....If you do it the wrong way it is much easier to round off the nuts as the movable jaw will flex just enough.....that I can say for sure.... :-)
Thanks again. Have used my little 9" southbend for starting threads many times. I have used the drill press and center point to tap three legged bases.
@@AdamA-pm3yn I am probably wrong but I just use regular machine oil. The SB lubrication chart calls for Type B on the bearings which 150-240 sec. Here is the link to MrPete's video on lubrication..czcams.com/video/VBqqty08S6M/video.html. Here is the one he did on the types of oils...czcams.com/video/JuXDMnOaKVc/video.html
@@AdamA-pm3ynHd46 is what we always used in a toolroom with over a dozen lathes of various manufacturers, ten or so mills, a dozen surface grinders, a dedicated broaching setup, and hundreds of hydraulic and mechanical compression presses on the production floor. Was originally Channel Master but was sold to Andrew corporation. You should've seen the co-ax cable machinery line. Wardwell wire braiders. Foam extruder and chiller, casing extruder and separate chilling runway trough. And the darn high-speed cable printer. WOW.
G'morning Mr. Pete! Perhaps you would consider a video on the making of an expensive tap like that. You have all the equipment. I've searched the world over for information on this and it is scarce. Somewhere between edition 27 and 28, Machinery's Handbook dropped all the data related to taps, and I'm not convinced that editon 26 has a complete reference on the subject. I tried my hand at it, and it's much easier than one would think. Admittedly taps are generally too cheap to make at home because the material cost for the average Joe is more than the tap itself, but for something like a 1/2-12 left hand thread it can make sense to make one at home. Food for thought. I hope this message finds you well!
@StanErvin-yo9vl Yeah, information for tap standards is all but non-existent unless you're a member of some prestigious engineering club, it seems (like SAE).
When you are rebuilding a lathe for example and making a new feed nut, you will most likely have to tap. Yep acme taps are huge money I have several in different sizes. I like the tandem taps or two tap sets to relieve the load. However in my experience, they still take some power to get through. Do you have a tandem tap you can show the people Mr Pete? Probably not or you would have I suppose. Cheers.
I do not have a tandem, I’m not even sure where you would buy one. Plus it doubles the cost or maybe I misunderstand you. Sometimes there are two taps. They starting to have a new finishing job, but they may be custom made.
@@mrpete222 They are available at the usual supply houses. McMaster lists the 3/4-6 tandem at $160.00 either LH or RH thread. Not inexpensive by any means. Probably not many folks have them laying around unless they have a need for them. Can't say I blame them. Cheers
@@warrenjones744Hate to bring the news to everyone, but that Acme tap IS a tandem tap. Read the information on the shank. All that tandem means is to cut fully deep threads with a single tap. As opposed to that normal set of taper, plug, and bottom, which is exactly what Acme have invented and patented. Just feel blessed that we aren't using no chip thread FORMING taps.
Not sure if needed, but when I get "worried" about a deep tap I stop tapping at 1/2, 1/3 or so, remove the tap then clean it and hole, then continue tapping. More time and work for sure but I normally end up with a tapped hole and still have a good tap.
I liked the eye safety poster at the beginning. I used to show my students the video “Don’t Push Your Luck” by Harvest films. High school and middle schoolers would have to look away it was so full of blood and gore!
In a sense, that tap is a broach. More so than the average tap. The reason of course is because of the profile of the teeth. So instead of tapping, call this instead rotary broaching. Makes you wonder if it would not be easier to have just done this as a single point threading using the normal function of the lathe.
Single point threading would be very difficult on that size deep bore since the threading tool must go straight in cutting all three surfaces at the same time.
I have to cut a 2 9/16 x 8 ACME into a large backing plate soon. I got a 3 in round to make a verifying plug. At the cost of a bare backplate of this size i dont have room for error. I want to put a large 6 jaw vice on the Walcott. 16 inch or so.
You meant you were showing us how not to use a file on the lathe. 😊 Them Acme threads are something. I just bought a imported tap for 5/8”-5LH and it went right on through.. but the thing doesn’t even thread on a half a turn.. I measured with a thread gauge for acme threads. Then I measured the OD. 16.80 mm ?? Closest I could find was 5/8” so I ASSUMED it was 5/8”. I’m positive it’s not trapezoidal, the pitch gauge fits perfect. But I’m doing something wrong. I noticed how the older machines are made very straightforward and standardized. My Clausing Metosa here is definitely not standardized.. metric with imperial here and there. Such as the acme threads in the tailstock and cross slide. This project has been a challenge to put it mildly. Thanks for sharing ball end nut threading ! 😊
@@ellieprice3396 another machinist looked at it and called it out as 17mm trapezoidal. So I ordered two sets of thread pitch gauges and it only matches the “5N” leaf on the Acme thread pitch gauge. This lathe dose has inch/metric dials so it could go either way I guess. But I can tell you I have purchased three different taps and two pitch gauges, two sets of insert type Acme threading lathe tools. And have made numerous test parts. I’m just as lost now as I was when I picked it up to start this project.. 😩
@@jasonhull5712 The diameter of 16.8 indicates it’s 17mm. Possibly standard 60 degree thread. Not sure what 5N stands for. Just a guess unless I could see it.
I think this tap isn't intended for thick materials. This because almost every tip on the tap is cutting all the time. As you can see at 7:00 it needs a lot of torque to proceed. This tap is indeed optimal to start threading and it definitely works best on thinner materials. In this case I don't think it's any better than a "normal" cheaper tap.
Definitely could be easier with a 3 piece Old School set with taper, plug, and bottom which should be interesting to look into. Any of the aficionados out there up for the challenge to make and patent my idea?
"A tap wrench will not fit in here". How so Lyle, what happend to that big box of tap wrenches? It needs to be ratcheting, maybe because ti won't clear the carriage? We're going to have t address this. And... I bought the same spring loaded tap follower and it was really stiff. I took out the spring and put in a different one (longer and lower rate) so it doesn't push so hard, has a more constant pressure and you can nearly push it in all the way to keep from having to keep turning the tails stock wheel. I thought it was a good improvement.
That would have given you a good workout. It being cast iron ingot would have used 4 jaw to protect concentricity of 3 jaw spiral. But as you say there is always other ways to do it.
Dont know about the "no one in the whole world is ever going to do this". Just two weeks ago, i had a water main control valve strip its stem 4 feet down a hole. The gate thread was good, just the stem stripped. 3/8 acme double lead. Stems unavailable, manufacturer out of business. Hmm. In theory i could do it. But thread dial for the atlas is missing. I remember taking it off for clearance on a job, but now,... No dial. Well, lots of thinking, watchin of your videos, and grinding of cutting tools, it got done. Valve works a'ok.
Could you show us how to make a tap? Can’t you just make a thread on hardenable tool steel, cut/mill/ grind the flutes, then harden the steel to make a tap?
I don't think that was CI, the chip was a chip, not the dust that normally comes off a cut. It also looked light in your hands, if it were ci I think you would be holding it differently, as it would weigh about 5lbs.
@@mrpete222 no I didn't. sorry, it just didn't look like CI in color and chip. it was too darn shinny, and the chip was a chip. But I have nothing to offer.. so CI it probably is.
@@jsteifel You're right, that wasn't any cast iron I've ever machined, maybe cast steel. If it was cast iron he wouldn't have had to switch to a larger wrench. It was obviously a piece he found at auction, so he probably only guessed at it's composition and HOPED it was cast iron.
I believe you are using the hand wrench improperly. You’re applying the force to the moveable part of the jaw where is if you were to rotated 190°, then the force would be exerted on the fixed part of the jaw. Am I correct or are you correct?
Those were awfully long chips for cast iron. That looked like two baseball bats swinging around the spindle. Reaching over the headstock with a file like you did scares the bejesus out of me. I always use files left handed on the lathe and stand on the tailstock side of the carriage.
Sir, that isn't cast iron. Your hands are too clean and the chips I saw weren't formed like any cast iron I've ever machined in my life. I'm just saying.
"there are many ways of doing things" you are absolutely correct Mr. Pete. In my shop there are three ways of doing things. The Right Way, The Wrong Way, and My Way. Which method I choose depends of the project at hand. Sometimes I'll do it the right way, sometimes I'll do it the wrong way, but in most cases I'll do it "my way"
I totally agree with you. But I have to be careful of what I show in video is because the criticism will become rampant. Actually, they will criticize everything I do, lol. You can’t win. I have to offer them a refund, oh that’s right I didn’t pay anything.
You’re lucky at that. 85 percent of Adam Booths comments are critical. I don’t see how he takes it; or maybe he doesn’t read them.
@@mrpete222 You know, we all, even if we're experienced, sometimes learn from constructive criticism. A lot of criticism indeed isn't constructive and sometimes totally crazy and even rude.
Of course we like praise, but do we learn anything from it?
Most people who are critical of everything have never DONE anything. Just haters.
@@HemiRod23 And then some of us who are critical just have old timers and evolved into a McGyver type worker/problem solver. Guess people could see me as a hairy wart. Ain't all that darned purty but dadgummit he's persistent and hard to ignore.
Lyle gets tired of my constantly aggravating bickering. But neither of us have the strength or wherewithal to do more than ten years after putting up with Spite, the riding lawnmower neighbor,,. Bubba, the classroom klutz who could break wind, swing from the rafters, or crash one lathe and a gear hobber all in a July day. The best companion a man could have works with poppa whenever he can. Little Henry. I'm ready for some casting videos but the weather will not allow that again until at least Thanksgiving. As someone said here not so long ago, there are three ways to get things done... Lyle's way. Professor Petes way. And of course,... You guessed it, Tubal Cains' Way.
This video is “right up my alley” as we say down south. I have a customer who refurbishes dental equipment to new condition. One job requires replacing worn Delrin nuts in ball threaded ACME lifting screws. So far I’ve made new nuts with 3/4-6 single lead, 3/4-6 double lead, 3/4-8 double lead, and soon to be 20mm double lead. (two threads on one shaft). The customer furnishes the very expensive tandem ACME taps and I do the work in my home shop. Delrin nuts are self lubricating and very quiet and the ball screws usually don’t require replacement. It’s been interesting to learn how ACME taps are made.
Thank you for that interesting comment
Hello Lyle, some years ago, I made a new bronze cross slide nut for my Hercus lathe(Southbend clone). I cast up the nut and as the thread was 7/16, it was too small to successfully screw cut. To buy a 7/16' left hand 10tpi acme tap was out of the question, so I made one out of some tool steel, milled the flutes, then hand finished the cutting clearances. When heat treating, it developed a slight bend, even after plunging straight down into oil. Still worked OK. I then screw cut a new cross slide screw to fit the new nut.
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I made one handled pieces like that, first I tried cutting the internal threads w a single point ground from drill stock. Challenging indeed! I too used rough cast old stuff found along the way.. bought the taps for 3/8, 7/17, and 1/2 acme. Larger left hand thread. For rebuilding my sb lathe cross slide.. but the single handles were to repair my antique Bridgeport mill. The locks r single handle. Having the tap is such a benefit! Holding such shapes indeed requires sum inventiveness! I used an old c clamp screw like you . 5 hours of sweat equity n my mill has all its locking handles in order. Thank you for such well done clear videos. Please keep up the good works. Oh, I'm now looking for a bench grinder / sharpening lap... 😢
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7/17 ? Or do you mean 7/16 ?
Thanks old man. first time I recall seeing an acme thread tap being used. They are expensive. Another learning experience from Mr. Pete. You're a top bloke !
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Enjoyed the project. I have been thinking about some projects involving ACME tapping and this was informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Many, many valuable techniques in this video for new machinists and old. Thanks Mr. Pete!
Thank you very much
There is always many ways to do things for sure. Appreciate you sharing this with us. Thanks Lyle.
Going to love this one Lyle
Edit: PLEASE lockout before the wrench @5:38 . Bubba might be watching from the circle on the chalkboard that you are having him to hold his nose against till lunch. He's hangry. Just let li'l Henry help with editing your videos because your knowledge can't be matched. We all respect Tubal Cain.
😄😄
Thanks for using the adjustable wrench backwards if only to spite the life long training that I have yielded to that they are directional. This has recently been a hot CZcams controversy. I have some quality adjustable wrenches even marked in the casting by the manufacturer indicating the correct use direction. I will have to go the the shops to confirm the brand(s). I have often used my adjustable wrenches backwards, but seldom without the internal fear that Dad or an early mentor is watching me, though they are all now dead. Even though a lot of data confirms that direction is not a significant deal, I still can't force myself to really load an adjustable wrench in the wrong direction.
Howee's has recently demonstrated on CZcams that a lathe can't throw a chuck key as violently as most of us were taught, but I still can't make myself leave any key in a chuck. I have seen workpiece damage when the workpiece was thrown from a lathe. The bad ones happened in my workplace shop, but not by me. My personal events have been limited to the learning curve on the wood lathe. They were serious enough to elevate my caution and alter my approaches in the machine shop.
You admitted that the desirable runout in your demonstration might have been mitigated by an alternative method. I find that one off processes teach you a better way after you have made an unintentional error or caused an unexpected event. Salvaging your only stock or workpiece then becomes a new challenge. I recently made a custom part for a friend and a small oops in the lathe bent the workpiece. I had no more suitable stock. I was able to recover and true and square the critical parts of the workpiece. It left runout in a non critical shoulder OD. Sending the work back including the the runout error irked me, but time and lack of material were critical factors and it went to my friend with an explanation and an apology. A paid job would demand rework. I learned from my oops and may avoid repeating my error.
Purchasing a nut from McMaster Carr might have been a better final product decision, but purchased part QC is not fully reliable either. Our shop purchased a fancy Hyd Mech band saw. The three knobbed wingnut was made out of plastic. It broke within a year and likely had more runout than your demonstration. You repeatedly pointed out that your use doesn't demand a prettier part. Accepting the result in that case and moving on is good practice. If we learn from our experience, craftsmanship improvement might demand more care in a a future experience. I my home shop I routinely discover that I have unexpected limitations mid project. Yesterday I discovered that my workpiece exceeded my lathe chuck holding capacity after roughing out stock with a large hole saw. The hole saw left an unexpected deformation that demanded a work holding challenge to true the intended work holding surface. That project plan mistake forced me to change chuck jaws and that completely altered my intended plans, creating subsequent recovery steps. The other jaws held the work, but interfered with my tooling ater I turned the smaller registering OD. I suffered a whole string of "recovery" steps.
People love to talk about and criticize the direction or miss direction of using a an adjustable wrench. I actually did that on purpose. And I actually do not think it matters.
I have over 100 crescent. Wrenches, I have never damaged one except in a video I did years ago. The whole video was about what we are talking about.
Very good advice on what to do and what not to do. All based on practical experience. Thanks Paul.
@@mrpete222 Calling it a 'Crescent wrench' is what irks me, using it bassackwards, not so much!
I used a un-machined handle like that to make a speed handle for my milling vise. I held it upright in my mill with a couple of v-blocks and drilled/bored it to a press fit for a 5/8" deep socket. I also milled a flat spot on the top of one of the ball ends to mount a small spinner handle.
Excellent idea
Mr. Pete, I always enjoy your videos.
Thanks, Mr Pete. I am making a float lock vice for the drill press. I just began to cut 1/2” - 10 Acme threads on the shaft. At 80 years of age, I am not looking forward to using the Acme tap on the jaw.
Yes, it takes some muscle power. Some thing I do not have any more.
Your holes off center, it’s wobbling, you should have bored it. Lol . I love all your videos. I looked those taps up you weren’t lying, expensive, glad I don’t need one. As always thank you for your time and knowledge.
Thank you Mr Pete. I appreciate you.
I appreciate that
Nice project and very well done. Thanks Mr. Pete for the video.
Another wonderful video. You’re a good expert person for explaining things I think you made a good shop teacher back in the day. Look forward to seeing more of your how to do videos when they come along. Or projects that you may want to build
Thank you so much!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge so freely Mr. Pete
Personally I really prefer singlepointing acme & trapez threads, even for smaller dimensions.
Boring bars of solid Carbide are wonderful (but breaks instantly if overloaded without warning).
One warning if singlepointing, the profile for imperial Acme and metric Trapez are slightly different, don't mix up the inserts!
Thank you, I was not aware of that they sold inserts for internal Acme threading
@@mrpete222
I think that he was alluding to actually making them from solid carbide bars! Very risky. Don't know if I'm that good to brag about it. But professor Pete can do it.
I deeply enjoy watching you create things, and the use of tapes and dies.
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Quite a solid cast iron handle.Very well threaded.Looks like you are having a cool summer.Thank you.
Good Morning Mr Pete!!!
The Tennessee Mole Man
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If I had a lathe. I would do all these projects. Great job.
I was always taught (by my shop teachers) to pull against the solid jaw of a crescent wrench.....good video......
So was I, but I think that is all a myth. I do have a video on that subject someplace in titled myth breakers.
@@mrpete222 probably is a myth....but I think that is I was to put force till failure it would fail one way far sooner than the other.....I will check around for some empirical data.... :-)
@@Deg99 If you're using enough force to break a quality adjustable wrench you're using too much force. Switch to another type of wrench.
@@ellieprice3396 yes exactly,......but here's the thing.....If you do it the wrong way it is much easier to round off the nuts as the movable jaw will flex just enough.....that I can say for sure.... :-)
@@Deg99 True. As a last resort a large vise grip will round off the flats much faster....(:-)))
You are probably correct i saying I'll probably never do that, but seeing the order of operation is what is interesting. Thanks for the video.
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Thanks again. Have used my little 9" southbend for starting threads many times. I have used the drill press and center point to tap three legged bases.
@@AdamA-pm3yn Probably not the best. I just use a little oil. I mainly machine brass and aluminum so not much lube is usually needed.
@@AdamA-pm3yn I am probably wrong but I just use regular machine oil. The SB lubrication chart calls for Type B on the bearings which 150-240 sec. Here is the link to MrPete's video on lubrication..czcams.com/video/VBqqty08S6M/video.html. Here is the one he did on the types of oils...czcams.com/video/JuXDMnOaKVc/video.html
@@AdamA-pm3yn My pleasure.
@@AdamA-pm3ynHd46 is what we always used in a toolroom with over a dozen lathes of various manufacturers, ten or so mills, a dozen surface grinders, a dedicated broaching setup, and hundreds of hydraulic and mechanical compression presses on the production floor. Was originally Channel Master but was sold to Andrew corporation.
You should've seen the co-ax cable machinery line. Wardwell wire braiders. Foam extruder and chiller, casing extruder and separate chilling runway trough. And the darn high-speed cable printer. WOW.
G'morning Mr. Pete! Perhaps you would consider a video on the making of an expensive tap like that. You have all the equipment. I've searched the world over for information on this and it is scarce. Somewhere between edition 27 and 28, Machinery's Handbook dropped all the data related to taps, and I'm not convinced that editon 26 has a complete reference on the subject. I tried my hand at it, and it's much easier than one would think. Admittedly taps are generally too cheap to make at home because the material cost for the average Joe is more than the tap itself, but for something like a 1/2-12 left hand thread it can make sense to make one at home. Food for thought. I hope this message finds you well!
Good idea, but probably something I will never do
I can't find any info on the trapex threads at all.
@StanErvin-yo9vl Yeah, information for tap standards is all but non-existent unless you're a member of some prestigious engineering club, it seems (like SAE).
Agreed. There's a unique club for almost every hobby, trade, or specialist all over the Earth ... And beyond into other dimensions and Universe.
@@waynec369Lots of tap information in the Machinery Handbook (the machinist Bible). You’ll probably find what you need there.
Thanks Mr. Pete for another great video!!!
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Nice job, ACME is tough to tap, well done.
When you are rebuilding a lathe for example and making a new feed nut, you will most likely have to tap. Yep acme taps are huge money I have several in different sizes. I like the tandem taps or two tap sets to relieve the load. However in my experience, they still take some power to get through. Do you have a tandem tap you can show the people Mr Pete? Probably not or you would have I suppose. Cheers.
I do not have a tandem, I’m not even sure where you would buy one. Plus it doubles the cost or maybe I misunderstand you. Sometimes there are two taps. They starting to have a new finishing job, but they may be custom made.
@@mrpete222 They are available at the usual supply houses. McMaster lists the 3/4-6 tandem at $160.00 either LH or RH thread. Not inexpensive by any means. Probably not many folks have them laying around unless they have a need for them. Can't say I blame them. Cheers
@@warrenjones744Hate to bring the news to everyone, but that Acme tap IS a tandem tap. Read the information on the shank. All that tandem means is to cut fully deep threads with a single tap. As opposed to that normal set of taper, plug, and bottom, which is exactly what Acme have invented and patented. Just feel blessed that we aren't using no chip thread FORMING taps.
My lathe is just like yours, covered with magnets and tools
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Not sure if needed, but when I get "worried" about a deep tap I stop tapping at 1/2, 1/3 or so, remove the tap then clean it and hole, then continue tapping. More time and work for sure but I normally end up with a tapped hole and still have a good tap.
Thank you Mr Pete
I liked the eye safety poster at the beginning. I used to show my students the video “Don’t Push Your Luck” by Harvest films. High school and middle schoolers would have to look away it was so full of blood and gore!
Wish I would have had that video. I had several others that were pretty good.
Nice setup. I await to see your finished project.
That is the finished project
Like always Mrpete a master at work 🙏 100percent
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In a sense, that tap is a broach. More so than the average tap. The reason of course is because of the profile of the teeth. So instead of tapping, call this instead rotary broaching.
Makes you wonder if it would not be easier to have just done this as a single point threading using the normal function of the lathe.
Single point threading would be very difficult on that size deep bore since the threading tool must go straight in cutting all three surfaces at the same time.
Yes, and the boring bar would have to be about 2 1/2 inches long and only about 1/2 inch in diameter. It would flex like a long bow
Nice work. Remind us of what we need to think about when doing this work. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Good to see old guys (I'm an old guy...) getting a workout!
Thanks for doing something odd--ya never know when something like this will be needed!
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I could use 2 of those for the Moxon Vise I'm building on the end my woodworking bench. 👍👍
Coffee and Me. Pete first thing in the morning. Who could ask for anything more? Your ok.
Yes sir. It is the set ups I have problems with.
You could have power tapped it with a solid center and the large adjustable wrench, rest is on the compound and bump the motor.
I suppose, but pretty risky with a $60 tap
I have to cut a 2 9/16 x 8 ACME into a large backing plate soon. I got a 3 in round to make a verifying plug. At the cost of a bare backplate of this size i dont have room for error. I want to put a large 6 jaw vice on the Walcott. 16 inch or so.
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You meant you were showing us how not to use a file on the lathe. 😊
Them Acme threads are something. I just bought a imported tap for 5/8”-5LH and it went right on through.. but the thing doesn’t even thread on a half a turn..
I measured with a thread gauge for acme threads. Then I measured the OD. 16.80 mm ?? Closest I could find was 5/8” so I ASSUMED it was 5/8”.
I’m positive it’s not trapezoidal, the pitch gauge fits perfect. But I’m doing something wrong. I noticed how the older machines are made very straightforward and standardized. My Clausing Metosa here is definitely not standardized.. metric with imperial here and there. Such as the acme threads in the tailstock and cross slide. This project has been a challenge to put it mildly.
Thanks for sharing ball end nut threading ! 😊
That does cause a big problem when you have machinery or cars that are half and half
16mm is .629 so it's not 5/8. Sounds like a metric tap with a different lead than Imperial.
@@ellieprice3396 another machinist looked at it and called it out as 17mm trapezoidal. So I ordered two sets of thread pitch gauges and it only matches the “5N” leaf on the Acme thread pitch gauge. This lathe dose has inch/metric dials so it could go either way I guess. But I can tell you I have purchased three different taps and two pitch gauges, two sets of insert type Acme threading lathe tools. And have made numerous test parts. I’m just as lost now as I was when I picked it up to start this project.. 😩
Oh and from what I can tell there is no 17mm trapezoidal thread.🤷♂️
@@jasonhull5712 The diameter of 16.8 indicates it’s 17mm. Possibly standard 60 degree thread. Not sure what 5N stands for. Just a guess unless I could see it.
For cast iron it sure made nice chips!
I think it was malleable iron
@@mrpete222 Softer than some 8.8 bolt heads I just drilled out for sure! lol
Thanks Mr. Pete 🖖
I think this tap isn't intended for thick materials. This because almost every tip on the tap is cutting all the time. As you can see at 7:00 it needs a lot of torque to proceed. This tap is indeed optimal to start threading and it definitely works best on thinner materials. In this case I don't think it's any better than a "normal" cheaper tap.
I did not have a tandem, tap, too pricey
Definitely could be easier with a 3 piece Old School set with taper, plug, and bottom which should be interesting to look into. Any of the aficionados out there up for the challenge to make and patent my idea?
Up and coming project or just a training exercise?thanks for the video🤗😎🤗😎
An exercise in futility
"A tap wrench will not fit in here". How so Lyle, what happend to that big box of tap wrenches? It needs to be ratcheting, maybe because ti won't clear the carriage? We're going to have t address this. And... I bought the same spring loaded tap follower and it was really stiff. I took out the spring and put in a different one (longer and lower rate) so it doesn't push so hard, has a more constant pressure and you can nearly push it in all the way to keep from having to keep turning the tails stock wheel. I thought it was a good improvement.
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A few more of those and you'll have some bulging muscles. Some day I hope to have some acme taps.
Thanks MrPete.
Great video Mr pete I always learn something in all of your videos!! keep up the great work
Thanks, will do!
That would have given you a good workout. It being cast iron ingot would have used 4 jaw to protect concentricity of 3 jaw spiral. But as you say there is always other ways to do it.
I love the video.
Dont know about the "no one in the whole world is ever going to do this". Just two weeks ago, i had a water main control valve strip its stem 4 feet down a hole. The gate thread was good, just the stem stripped. 3/8 acme double lead. Stems unavailable, manufacturer out of business. Hmm. In theory i could do it. But thread dial for the atlas is missing. I remember taking it off for clearance on a job, but now,... No dial. Well, lots of thinking, watchin of your videos, and grinding of cutting tools, it got done. Valve works a'ok.
Amazing, I bet that was a tough one. So someone actually did benefit from the video, lol.
Nice project Mr Pete - you can skip the trip to the gym today. John
Thank you! This was a good video!
Nice job as always
I have done metric acme nut 19m.m left hand using hss tool bit of course bronze nut it was joyful job not easy at all
I bet it was difficult. Actually, I will not attempt it without a tap. I bought the top, especially for this job, or should I say this video
@@mrpete222 yes mr Pete it was difficult but we love what we doing
Great work as always Mr. Pete, thank you for sharing!
Good job 😊
Another great video. Thanks!
Waddaya mean, "no one will ever do this?" I have several of those nuts. And I did them that way. They're nice! (NC threads, though, not acme.}
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So, what-sha goning to do with the handle? For a vice? This reminded me. I think I figured out how to get a threaded chuck off a stuck spindle.
Nice job thanks for sharing
You bet
Did the tapping fluid make much of a difference?
MJ
Yes, quite a noticeable improvement. Less effort.
Could you show us how to make a tap?
Can’t you just make a thread on hardenable tool steel, cut/mill/ grind the flutes, then harden the steel to make a tap?
thanks for the video
I don't think that was CI, the chip was a chip, not the dust that normally comes off a cut. It also looked light in your hands, if it were ci I think you would be holding it differently, as it would weigh about 5lbs.
It was pretty heavy and did you notice how black my hands were
@@mrpete222 no I didn't. sorry, it just didn't look like CI in color and chip. it was too darn shinny, and the chip was a chip. But I have nothing to offer.. so CI it probably is.
@@jsteifel You're right, that wasn't any cast iron I've ever machined, maybe cast steel. If it was cast iron he wouldn't have had to switch to a larger wrench. It was obviously a piece he found at auction, so he probably only guessed at it's composition and HOPED it was cast iron.
I believe you are using the hand wrench improperly. You’re applying the force to the moveable part of the jaw where is if you were to rotated 190°, then the force would be exerted on the fixed part of the jaw. Am I correct or are you correct?
I have a complete video discussing that
Why is it dangerous to use a file like you showed? I have seen a file used in a similar way before.
It’s really not that dangerous. I only said that because I expect a lot of flak every time I use a file on the lathe
Those were awfully long chips for cast iron.
That looked like two baseball bats swinging around the spindle.
Reaching over the headstock with a file like you did scares the bejesus out of me. I always use files left handed on the lathe and stand on the tailstock side of the carriage.
I think it was malleable iron
Good morning
Acme; I heard that name before. Is this the same company that made the safes that the Roadrunner used to drop on top of Wile E. Coyote?
No, it is the company that made the anvil’s to drop on the coyote
Acme made the anvils and the rockets. US Safes made the safes.
Hi Mr Pete, what's the handle for?
Should have used a spring loaded center.
You really should have watched the whole video
Hahaha I did and must have missed that. Reason I said It because you said you were feeding the tailstock at same time
Those taps ARE expensive aren't they.
Watching you I don't think I would want to use a worn tap.
I think it was $60
A comment to help with whatcha-callits.
Do as I say, not as I do machining. 😂
You Sir, need more sleep! As do I...
Awesome. Back to machining
Odd rigging that calls for attention. Even in a mini lathe it would be the same dangerous.
Yes, indeed
Sir, that isn't cast iron. Your hands are too clean and the chips I saw weren't formed like any cast iron I've ever machined in my life. I'm just saying.
I think it might have been malleable iron. And my hands became very black near the end, but maybe not as black as cast-iron.