Hey man, I’m in the middle of this job. How did u get the bottom bolt? I can’t seem to get on it no matter how I try. Certain size extension ? The only things left before it’s out are that bolt and the plug in. Is there something else I need to remove like maybe that black coolant(I think) line?
Great vid and thanks for help could you tell me the symptoms of this issue? I have an 08 CTS AWD DI and when the gas cap is removed the car starts to idle rough and I have yet to locate the problem.
I wrecked my 2011 STS 3.6 LLT so I went bought a 2008 CTS LY7 beautiful car with a blown engine...I was just gonna swap out the motor and transmission from the STS to the CTS.Will that work?
First, Lou thank you Lou for taking the time to make this video. Second, what were the symptoms and CEL codes associated with this repair? Third you mentioned a special tool to remove a fuel line connector but didn't show it, can you explain the tool?
I have a suspected vacuum leak/clog on a 2008 cts. I have missfires on all my even cylinders. One of my vacuum hoses has no suction and oil residue inside the hose. And I hear a suction when I remove my oil cap.
Good evening Lou, I have a problem with my 2010 Camaro. I got two codes which are: first one is P0089 fuel pressure regulator performance, and second one is P0306 Cylinder 6 misfire detected. And the car is misfiring and smoking a lot with fuel smell. I already took off the spark plug on Cylinder 6 and was wet with fuel. Do you think if i replace the fuel regulator is the same one that you are showing on the video will solve the problem in my car ? Or what it is your suggestion from your knowledge as a technician? Thank you and appreciate it
Just did the same job on a 2010 cts. Unfortunately it didn't fix the issue. Still giving code P0089, and P0228D. Not sure where to look from here, but will keep digging.
Hello, that part is called the high pressure fuel pump. Your codes address fuel pressure and throttle position errors. You need to look up the diagnostic procedure for the codes to follow a good diagnostic approach. With that out of the way, there is a high pressure sensor on the fuel rail, so if replacing the high pressure pump did not fix your problem, you also need to make sure the in tank fuel pump is supplying sufficient pressure to the high pressure pump which should read a static pressure of at least 55 to 60+ psi. If that's good, your high side fuel pressure sensor may be bad. There apparently is a pressure sensor on the in tank module also but I'm not sure if it monitors pressure in the tank, or the pressure from the pump. The high pressure fuel pipes connecting the fuel injector rails and pump are one time use parts although some have reused them successfully.
@@qq-hk2sq my 2010 is not starting now but I can hear the pump when I turn on the key..the codes are mentioning fuel injectors..I hate to change the pump and still have the same problem
@@marvsands2889 You need to read the diagnostic procedure for whatever codes you have. By no means would I replace a pump without reasonable proof it is the problem. I'm not aware of what the specific injector codes are. Check the injector fuses. The basic approach is pretty straight forward in determining whether you have a fuel delivery problem, or an ignition problem. The fuel pressure needs to be checked for the in tank pump. It can run and still fail to deliver the minimum fuel pressure required. Once it is confirmed to be delivering sufficient fuel pressure, the high pressure pump side needs to be checked for sufficient pressure and that requires a scan tool capable of reading the fuel rail pressure sensor output value. The direct injected motor has this sensor, not the multiport injected motor. If the fuel system pressure is confirmed adequate at both points and you are getting codes that are saying the fuel injectors are not working properly, you can have them removed and refurbished, don't go for the on car cleaning. You can also source a set of refurbished injectors for replacements which is what I did. They were a reasonably priced alternative to new injectors at over $100 ea and the next best way to get genuine parts, as there are made in China versions that are new and too dangerously cheap to take a chance on. You should invest in a thorough diagnosis, don't throw parts at it.
Most are in the tank and you have to drop the entire differential to get the tank down and remove the pump out of the top..or cut a hole in the body under the rear seat..
I put it on and the car don't stall anymore or shake and I reuse the same lines and that small metal thing with the wheel on it that touch the cam but I will say this it is making a little noise which mad me pissed because I should have changed that because it is no good make a small noise sounding like a lifter at times but overall I did the job I definitely wouldn't do this job again because of that bolt at the bottom took me two days to get the job done
Thank you Lou for taking the time to speak with me, 08 CTS pretty sure I have the same problem with mine
Your a great guy for doing that Thx
great video, i can feel your passion on car :)
Thanks for making the Video Lou. It helps .
David Moegle
Thankyou
Is not the best
But?
I hopefully it helps some one
Great video, very helpful
Lou great video, and thanks for all you help you saved me thanks alot.......
Thank you sir. I sincerely appreciate
so basically its a real pain in the ass...thank you again Cadillac...good video job
Thx man i gotta do this
Great vid dad
Thanks for the info Lou. Would this part cause my oil to smell like gas? I have a 2010 cts but with the 3.0 not the 3.6
Hey man, I’m in the middle of this job. How did u get the bottom bolt? I can’t seem to get on it no matter how I try. Certain size extension ? The only things left before it’s out are that bolt and the plug in. Is there something else I need to remove like maybe that black coolant(I think) line?
Great vid and thanks for help could you tell me the symptoms of this issue? I have an 08 CTS AWD DI and when the gas cap is removed the car starts to idle rough and I have yet to locate the problem.
I wrecked my 2011 STS 3.6 LLT so I went bought a 2008 CTS LY7 beautiful car with a blown engine...I was just gonna swap out the motor and transmission from the STS to the CTS.Will that work?
Tanks dear Tha information help me a lot thanks
I think you change the whole assembly HPFP GDI pump right?
First, Lou thank you Lou for taking the time to make this video.
Second, what were the symptoms and CEL codes associated with this repair?
Third you mentioned a special tool to remove a fuel line connector but didn't show it, can you explain the tool?
Hey everyone
Change my cell number 239 2709843
Call me 2392709843
Sorry Lou it would be difficult to call you I don't live in the United States of America
Did your engine run erratic shake and have multiple misfires 🤔
Does anybody know the symptoms the car was having
I have a suspected vacuum leak/clog on a 2008 cts. I have missfires on all my even cylinders. One of my vacuum hoses has no suction and oil residue inside the hose. And I hear a suction when I remove my oil cap.
Did you ever figure this out? I have misfire on all even cylinders in my sts with the 3.6
@@JDemasi timing chain
Is this the same with the 06’ CTS?
Good evening Lou,
I have a problem with my 2010 Camaro. I got two codes which are: first one is P0089 fuel pressure regulator performance, and second one is P0306 Cylinder 6 misfire detected. And the car is misfiring and smoking a lot with fuel smell. I already took off the spark plug on Cylinder 6 and was wet with fuel. Do you think if i replace the fuel regulator is the same one that you are showing on the video will solve the problem in my car ? Or what it is your suggestion from your knowledge as a technician?
Thank you and appreciate it
Call me at this #2392709843
I have the same code P0089. What can I do to solve it?
Are the symptoms a ticking sound?
Good
Make sure to subscribe and like the vedio.
Just did the same job on a 2010 cts. Unfortunately it didn't fix the issue. Still giving code P0089, and P0228D. Not sure where to look from here, but will keep digging.
Hello, that part is called the high pressure fuel pump. Your codes address fuel pressure and throttle position errors. You need to look up the diagnostic procedure for the codes to follow a good diagnostic approach. With that out of the way, there is a high pressure sensor on the fuel rail, so if replacing the high pressure pump did not fix your problem, you also need to make sure the in tank fuel pump is supplying sufficient pressure to the high pressure pump which should read a static pressure of at least 55 to 60+ psi. If that's good, your high side fuel pressure sensor may be bad. There apparently is a pressure sensor on the in tank module also but I'm not sure if it monitors pressure in the tank, or the pressure from the pump. The high pressure fuel pipes connecting the fuel injector rails and pump are one time use parts although some have reused them successfully.
@@qq-hk2sq my 2010 is not starting now but I can hear the pump when I turn on the key..the codes are mentioning fuel injectors..I hate to change the pump and still have the same problem
@@marvsands2889 You need to read the diagnostic procedure for whatever codes you have. By no means would I replace a pump without reasonable proof it is the problem. I'm not aware of what the specific injector codes are. Check the injector fuses. The basic approach is pretty straight forward in determining whether you have a fuel delivery problem, or an ignition problem. The fuel pressure needs to be checked for the in tank pump. It can run and still fail to deliver the minimum fuel pressure required. Once it is confirmed to be delivering sufficient fuel pressure, the high pressure pump side needs to be checked for sufficient pressure and that requires a scan tool capable of reading the fuel rail pressure sensor output value. The direct injected motor has this sensor, not the multiport injected motor.
If the fuel system pressure is confirmed adequate at both points and you are getting codes that are saying the fuel injectors are not working properly, you can have them removed and refurbished, don't go for the on car cleaning. You can also source a set of refurbished injectors for replacements which is what I did. They were a reasonably priced alternative to new injectors at over $100 ea and the next best way to get genuine parts, as there are made in China versions that are new and too dangerously cheap to take a chance on. You should invest in a thorough diagnosis, don't throw parts at it.
What about a 2011 cts4 3.0
hey amigo do you know wheres located the fuel pump? cadillac cts v6 engine 3.6? thanks
CHEVROLET- 4X4 its on top of the fuel tank, you would need to take off your exhaust system down and some other stuff, its atleast a 3 hour job
CHEVROLET- 4X4 hey bud
Call me 2393575863 I never send you this message
You don't need to do all this
Most are in the tank and you have to drop the entire differential to get the tank down and remove the pump out of the top..or cut a hole in the body under the rear seat..
That last bolt seems impossible
I put it on and the car don't stall anymore or shake and I reuse the same lines and that small metal thing with the wheel on it that touch the cam but I will say this it is making a little noise which mad me pissed because I should have changed that because it is no good make a small noise sounding like a lifter at times but overall I did the job I definitely wouldn't do this job again because of that bolt at the bottom took me two days to get the job done
Whats the parr number?!?!
Did anyone ever get the part number for this
@@jamesseaton2687 12658552 or HPM1008