When you rebuilding frame from scratch,it is Swiss watch.... The hardest area is rear section so as central support piece that retain trigger guard.... The main result supposed to be 1;1 scale of factory original or none of parts would align at all.... One part is mistakenly called sear which connect with slide stop,in reality it is disconnector,real sear lever attached to end of trigger bar and that what truly cocking and holds the hammer,it's edge also coresponds with disconnector allowing one shot been fired as double action,just like Walther P38 or PP series,same goes for Stechkin APS.... Working with guns is like working with Swiss Watches,it is not easy way to repair it at all,especially if you doing that from scratch,each different gun have different technique and way how to do it right.... Been work with guns for long time and know how to repair it or recondition it,at some instances where welding won't go brazing get used,WW2 guns are real tricky stuff to restore after been rusted out,sometimes kerosene can take rust easily while rest sanding method used,even coca cola can help in some cases,from my opinion it is detergent not a soda,it cleans backed up toilet or even remove rust from metal,by sitting long on glass it damages glass thanks to phosphoric acid content,if that do such stuff with metal and toilet cleaning imagine what it does in your stomach over all.... With little lower acid content same acid present in pepsi cola and dr. pepper as well along with artificial flavors,good for cleaning but not drinking.... For some reasons peoples would age guns than try restore them just for demonstration,this just damages metal and it's properties,barrel would be consider most critical element of any firearm,if it get damaged gun becomes unsafe,frames or main housings normally roughly build allowing some repairs to be performed,bolts and slides are also critical components that need to be proper head spaced,using ammo that reading field gauge is very dangerous and most would lead toward injury.... The frame that been demonstrated brazed at bottom is IJ70 or PMM series,the rear post of frame about 3mm thick,bottom walls are thinner and designed to enhouse double stack magazines for 12 rounds,original Makarov PM series have thicker rear post,however single stack magazine would fit and work in PMM series although it would wobble inside frame,but it won't work vise versa between two different models. Majority of WW2 guns would option A all parts wrecked but main housing or frame in fair to good condition,option B all smaller parts including bolt mechanism be from fair to good and main housing or frame wrecked or rottened beyond repair but not both things could be in neat shape.... Things like G43 have it's own issues,main housings usually have over tempered areas at front where barrel get inserted into,those result cracking,it is a pain in butt to repair this area without sawing some area and using donor housing's part for welding after repair like some services required....The 2nd common issue over tempered bolt carrier and neather side walls get cracked or nose of carrier get broked off.... Reason why German WW2 guns suffer from such crackings is over tempering process performed in chemical compound through electricity and compound known as Glowferrit Zyan Cutterfluss,G43 been suffer from such over tempering process.... The third adjustment of G43 is involving gas piston mechanism,the false piston which is intake area that screw into gas housing would requires hole drilling,same goes for gas cylinder to avoid critical gas pressures to be form,othervise it would damage rifle,than the small spacing washer required to place between connection piece and push rod to prevent wobble.... I think AC43 consider as collectable version,it's barrel have thread and main housing finishing is rough unlike other G43 later versions,later versions won't have barrel thread and ejection port covers been modified.... Some models exist that never went into serial production also exist like thicker barrel,longer barrel version and even right side cocking handle at carrier....There two types of bolt cover's exist one normally stamped while other is milled and consider rare to find.
Выбрасыватель он поставил без пружины, а она не так легко ставиться так и хочет улететь. Я ПМ также разбираю полностью, но не знаю как снимается пружина на пистолетной скобе. Думал увижу.
В этом видео - не ПМ, а пневмашка, МР-654, причем, ранних выпусков. В ПМе аналогично, пружина снимется, когда ты выдавишь/выбьешь штифт, которым спусковая скоба скрепляется с рамкой пистолета.
Ствол был весь в микроцарапинах от чистки наждаком. Через минуту вуаля и мы видим новый, вороненый стволик, со следами обработки на токарном станке. Какое-то чувство, что нас тут наепывают.
when i went to school for gunsmithing they told us to never use steel wire brushes on weapons as it will damage them. but since these guns are crap any way go for it dude.
Yippee hooray. At least I get to see my favorite kind of automatic. I so far haven't seen any electro tasers getting revamped.
это МР-654К
да, я после просмотра тоже хотел написал, аж кровь из глаз пошла, когда он наваривал на коробку полуавтоматом
One of my favorite pistol
Same
Nice!
Beautiful job spite what other ppl say looking forward to the next video
1. Это не реставрация а изменение конструкции.
2. Заменил корпус, и заказал все новое и поменял.
Дружок это не реставрация!!!?!
cool you finally got some tools, but still not gunsmith set.
what a fucken airsoft gun you can see the air canister
Beautiful work
When you rebuilding frame from scratch,it is Swiss watch....
The hardest area is rear section so as central support piece that retain trigger guard....
The main result supposed to be 1;1 scale of factory original or none of parts would align at all....
One part is mistakenly called sear which connect with slide stop,in reality it is disconnector,real sear lever attached to end of trigger bar and that what truly cocking and holds the hammer,it's edge also coresponds with disconnector allowing one shot been fired as double action,just like Walther P38 or PP series,same goes for Stechkin APS....
Working with guns is like working with Swiss Watches,it is not easy way to repair it at all,especially if you doing that from scratch,each different gun have different technique and way how to do it right....
Been work with guns for long time and know how to repair it or recondition it,at some instances where welding won't go brazing get used,WW2 guns are real tricky stuff to restore after been rusted out,sometimes kerosene can take rust easily while rest sanding method used,even coca cola can help in some cases,from my opinion it is detergent not a soda,it cleans backed up toilet or even remove rust from metal,by sitting long on glass it damages glass thanks to phosphoric acid content,if that do such stuff with metal and toilet cleaning imagine what it does in your stomach over all....
With little lower acid content same acid present in pepsi cola and dr. pepper as well along with artificial flavors,good for cleaning but not drinking....
For some reasons peoples would age guns than try restore them just for demonstration,this just damages metal and it's properties,barrel would be consider most critical element of any firearm,if it get damaged gun becomes unsafe,frames or main housings normally roughly build allowing some repairs to be performed,bolts and slides are also critical components that need to be proper head spaced,using ammo that reading field gauge is very dangerous and most would lead toward injury....
The frame that been demonstrated brazed at bottom is IJ70 or PMM series,the rear post of frame about 3mm thick,bottom walls are thinner and designed to enhouse double stack magazines for 12 rounds,original Makarov PM series have thicker rear post,however single stack magazine would fit and work in PMM series although it would wobble inside frame,but it won't work vise versa between two different models.
Majority of WW2 guns would option A all parts wrecked but main housing or frame in fair to good condition,option B all smaller parts including bolt mechanism be from fair to good and main housing or frame wrecked or rottened beyond repair but not both things could be in neat shape....
Things like G43 have it's own issues,main housings usually have over tempered areas at front where barrel get inserted into,those result cracking,it is a pain in butt to repair this area without sawing some area and using donor housing's part for welding after repair like some services required....The 2nd common issue over tempered bolt carrier and neather side walls get cracked or nose of carrier get broked off....
Reason why German WW2 guns suffer from such crackings is over tempering process performed in chemical compound through electricity and compound known as Glowferrit Zyan Cutterfluss,G43 been suffer from such over tempering process....
The third adjustment of G43 is involving gas piston mechanism,the false piston which is intake area that screw into gas housing would requires hole drilling,same goes for gas cylinder to avoid critical gas pressures to be form,othervise it would damage rifle,than the small spacing washer required to place between connection piece and push rod to prevent wobble....
I think AC43 consider as collectable version,it's barrel have thread and main housing finishing is rough unlike other G43 later versions,later versions won't have barrel thread and ejection port covers been modified....
Some models exist that never went into serial production also exist like thicker barrel,longer barrel version and even right side cocking handle at carrier....There two types of bolt cover's exist one normally stamped while other is milled and consider rare to find.
Когда он помешивал силикатный клей в растворе, думал сейчас попробует на вкус, как заправский шеф-повар…
Это не российский ПМ. На рукоятке насечки сделаны.
Хороший улов, ты гениален.
restoration with a hammer, very professional
Why is this video posted again after 2 months?
good job!
しかし後半のco2toygunて鉄製なのか?
マカロフも珍しいが。。。
yes, pneumatic guns also made of iron
sometimes, they made of reused/broken guns
@@sanrisa3370 thanks!
Выбрасыватель он поставил без пружины, а она не так легко ставиться так и хочет улететь. Я ПМ также разбираю полностью, но не знаю как снимается пружина на пистолетной скобе. Думал увижу.
В этом видео - не ПМ, а пневмашка, МР-654, причем, ранних выпусков. В ПМе аналогично, пружина снимется, когда ты выдавишь/выбьешь штифт, которым спусковая скоба скрепляется с рамкой пистолета.
Пневмат, ни хрена не боевой
а ствол?
Ствол был весь в микроцарапинах от чистки наждаком. Через минуту вуаля и мы видим новый, вороненый стволик, со следами обработки на токарном станке. Какое-то чувство, что нас тут наепывают.
its non-combat Makarov, its MP-654 pneumatic version
😂Пугач под оригинал 😂
when i went to school for gunsmithing they told us to never use steel wire brushes on weapons as it will damage them. but since these guns are crap any way go for it dude.
انته رئع
نفسى فى مسدس بس مش معايا ثمنه
♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️
Bruh really made the same video twice
That's not PM
That's a pm airgun
Made by baikal in the same factory as the real 9x18 pm
fake restoration video
Sure😂😂😂 everything is fake like all the time
@@Irusssska aluminum does not rust
Dude thats not aluminium. Makarovs made from steel))))
Funny thing, when its aluminium people yell, booo no rust, FAKE
When its steel, they say that aluminium dont rust😂
This guy has done 3 videos on the Makarov, and this one has the same grip damage/holes as the first video's has
airsoft, fuuu
Cute 654k. Not a makarov.