That’s a great idea thank you. I will try that. All bearings have come out so far. Even ones that are extremely stuck and rusted. You are right though 😀
I used the longer bolt method as outlined in this video, bearing was out in 3 whacks. Wouldn't budge before because the shocker was moving too much when struck. Thanks for the tip @easy fix, worked great. @Thundertef I'll try supporting the other side on a stand next time I do it and see how much better it will be. I noticed a lot of other movement and such with the suspension drooped. I think you make a good point!
Thank you so much for the video, worked one bearing for 3 hours and got nowere took a brake and after watching your video I went back out to my shop and made one of my own. Im a welder fabricator by trade took me about 1/2 hour to make and 5 wacks later it was off. Thanks again 👍👍
Great video!!!.... this is the stuff that makes the Internet priceless. Thanks again for taking the time to share your methods using the Hub shocker. Went right to method 3, down to the bolts, and the hub assembly came off in 5 blows.
I received this tool as a gift and had a chance to use it on my wife’s explorer (we live on New York), and this thing made very short work of the front hub/bearing job! I wish I would have bought one years ago.
I’m not one to comment but did this job for a friend and I had multiple tools on hand I wanted to try but ended up going straight with the hub shocker. The lug nut method did not work as well and only started to strip the lug nuts and once I removed the studs and bolted in straight on it took three small wacks with a 4lb hammer (making sure to support the suspension with a small jack and wood block) and it was good to go. Great tool for how simple it is. Kudos to anyone who has the ability to make one themselves. It’s far worth it! Thanks so much for the video!!
Made my new tool today cost me all of about 5$ there are how to make it so i gave it a shot sanded it down painted it red to find it when needed did not have to pay 100$ for it. You can go to Hub buster made from hitch receiver just use 2by2 square stock 1/4 inch wall thickness used a 1/2 inch plate made a timplate like the video welded 1 1/2 wide by 3 inches long flat stock to strike also welded some flat stock on end so as not to flatten square tube.Took less than hour to build. Thanks for the video.
Just replaced a rear bearing on a 2011 explorer. Tried the hub buster with a sledge hammer for shout an hour. Didn't do the trick even though I have successfully used it on other bearings. Had to beat it out for another half hour. Still love the tool, but I have to say that it met its match and then some this past weekend.
Nice work! I agree. I have also found the Fords are insane. Sorry it didn't work for you. I also love mine. I am finding the explorer and escape on the ford most troubling. The solution for those is the astro tools 78834 "last chance" remover. I put a link in the description for you 😃🔧 amzn.to/3JgbSYf
Thanks for the link, but believe it or not these too failed. The dug into the aluminum knuckle and in one spot gouged out a small piece of metal. Didn't want to push it so I stuck to wacking from behind with a heavy hammer. Great vid!
I have a 2018 Explorer, had to do both rears. 2 air hammers, hub buster, nothing was successful so I ran a 1/2" bolt through wheel stud holes, put 2 washers and a nut and actually used it as a home made press, kept switching sides of bearing and it popped right out. Had a little dimpling on the aluminum knuckle which I will clean up. A 4 year old SUV and these were the hardest ones Ive done yet. Gotta love Wisconsin!!!! Just gotta be creative sometimes i guess.
Those Ford's are the only vehicles the Shocker has not worked on for me also. They are on a whole new level. Nice work. The bolt method is the only method on those that will work, besides removal of the knuckle to press the bearing out. Or replacement. Great job! You have replaced the most difficult 😃🔧
Tried a sledge hammer by itself, then a slide hammer no luck, within 15 min of UPS delivering this tool the bearing and hub were out! Many thanks, just subscribed.
I don't do axles that much but when I do, I use a hub shocker. :) It makes the job a lot less frustrating. Bolting the axle back to hold it together is a clever trick. Thank you.
@@EasyFixShaun Hi, seeing that you have tried so many ways before this tool came along and i expect not all makes might be that stubborn but have you ever tried penetrating fluid say a day before and doesnt even that do the trick!?
Hey! Yes I have tried that and I think that’s a great way to make things easy. These Modern Subaru’s though have a particular problem. They are machined so tightly that any rust between the knuckle and bearing will “rust jack” them into place. Even with the bolts removed they seem welded in place. It’s amazing how bad they are. Typically I would rust penetrate for sure with any brand. The tool is basically for massively stuck wheel bearings. There are a ton of makes that have a similar problem. Rust penetrant would be much easier and cheaper. 😀
Second thing I'm impressed with. You compressed the caliper using a screw driver! I've been doing this for 10+ years while others spend way too much time with a C-Clamp.
Good trick man! Yup, I compress nearly every standard caliper piston this way. Fast, easy, no damage. An old timer taught me the trick a long time ago. He forgot more than I will ever know. It was one of the first pro tips I can remember learning from my mentor. I used to use a c-clamp also.
@@EasyFixShaun I bought the Hub Buster because Im doing a 4X4 avalanche and nothing is getting the hub off. Heat and all the tricks and I couldnt even crack the line. Three whacks with this and its 90% out. Just need to smack it from the bottom back to pop it out. I also used the EOM lug nuts. They are safer and have more grab. It does ruin them, but considering the Hub Buster is one of the most solid tools Ive used and comes with the cheapest Chinese nuts Ive ever seen its better this way.
@@imderrickjed seems like having a stock of lugs and then just asking which vehicle its for them sending 3 of those with the tool would be more feasible than sending 10 cheap random nuts to everyone..
I dined use lug nuts anymore with the tool. I knock a couple lug studs out and through bolt the tool into place every time. Much stronger. I use grade 8 bolts. I still bend and break them off at times. But it's the best method 😀🔧
I usually just leave one or two bolts in the hub and pound it out from the back, works every time. This tool looks like it's easier but seems like you could damage knuckle easier as well.
That is a fantastic trick if you have access. There are actually some great adaptors for air hammers too when using that method that won't damage the bolts. Amazing tools. Access is key on a lot of vehicles. That trick works great on jeeps. In the rust belt 900 methods need be ready to go at all times 😂😀🔧
Greatest tool EVER. Much more effective if you support the bottom of the knuckle with a jackstand, to eliminate movement of the suspension while striking. SUBARU"S are great,,, money makers!
I agree. Can't live with out it now. It has been a game changer on Subaru's and some other Notoriously hard to remove bearings. The jack stand trick is awsome, good call. I have incorporated a 6X6 chunk of wood (in place of the jack stand) into some Extremely hard bearing removals. It really does transfer even more energy into the bearing to help break that rust bond. Super useful 😃🔧
The best method is penetrating oil and the hub shocker at the 12 o'clock position. You want to put the force down into the center. The way you're doing it is putting all the stress on the studs. It's no wonder why you've snapped them. I'm in northeast NJ. Plenty of snow and salt. I've done too many wheel bearings to count. A lot of police vehicles also. My hub shocker has never failed me. Like I said though, the key is to have the vehicle lower, the tool at 12 o'clock, and strike down like you're trying to ring the bell at the carnival. 🤣🤣🤣 Do that and they'll pop every time.
I made a similar tool 20 years ago, but with mine I had a block of steel at the end that I hammered out away from the car not downwards. The tool your using is great but I would weld a block of steel at the point were you where hammering and use that block to hammer out in the direction away from the car, and for your safety lower the car all the down to the ground.
I see what you are saying. The tool works fantastic as is but could be improved like anything. It is a very barbaric way to remove stuck wheel bearings but works in most capacities when there are no other better options to remove a "bolt in" style bearing. There are several models of vehicles that still will not be powerful enough to be effective, nor would any modifications to it. So it has its usefulness. It is extremely useful in the salt belt. But it does have limitations like any tool. You should make a video of your 20 year old tool. I think it could do fantastic! 😃🔧
I'll probably end up buying one of these as I have a 315K Outback that dcided it needed wheel bearings this year. I don't have a slide hammer either (can rent one from the parts store though). I'm wondering if backing off the four nuts of the hub bearing by an eighth of an inch, then driving it off a curb or over a speed bump or dip in my neighborhood, might pop them free as a total "shade tree mechanic" first attempt... Great videos on this. Really a breeze if you have the right tools (and I'm always a sucker for good reasons to buy more!).
Hey Keith! That’s a good idea. I think it could work. I prefer the tool myself, but if you have time to try that, please report back. Could be a great way to break them free. 😀
The salt belt has to be the rustiest place on earth. We do have really nice boats in Michigan that age well because of the fresh water. Best boats. Worst cars. 🙃
@@EasyFixShaun Maine has a fixation with salt as well. Boats, and cars dont last very long without plenty of tlc. I have not needed a tool like that yet, usually i get out the red wrench and my air hammer and kano-kroil
Awesome! I use grade 8, 1/2" X 2.5" long. That generally works on everything. I do usually bend them each time I use the tool on stubborn bearings though. Sometimes I can reuse them. So I keep some extras on hand 😃🔧
I wish I had watched this three days ago before I did my second subie rear hub using the hubshocker and I was about to throw the tool in the scrap heap. Both times I it just ripped the bearing apart, leaving me with just the back side of the hub and I was back to pounding and air chiseling for two hours, just like before I bought the tool. Leaving the axle nut on to hold the hub assembly together is brilliant. Almost looking forward to the next bearing failure--just kidding. I would absolutely remove the ABS sensor first if I left the axle nut on, though. Probably not a bad idea to remove it in any case, just to be safe.
Just ordered one of these tools just waiting for it to show up. Rear bearing on my wife's town and country. Being here in Michigan myself as well I've come to absolutely loath anything related to suspension repairs with the salt this state is obsessed with using
💯! We have the largest salt mine in the world. That doesn't mean we need to use it. Legacy auto in Michigan donated salt to county and city road commissions that had trouble purchasing it during the housing crash. So kind of them 😂. Good luck with your tool, I love mine. It has been a life saver in a lot of situations. Can't live with out it 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun thanks. Got it yesterday and it worked great. Six or seven swings with an 8lb sledge and it popped right out. Apparently this tool has existed in some form for close to fifteen years and I'm just now hearing about it. New there was a salt mine under Detroit but didn't think it was still in use
@@frederickflores8152 That salt mine is a gigantic deposit. Ya the tool is much more available now from amazon. I tried to make one from metal but I didn't have enough heavy plate laying around. I have seen other forms made from rotors that have served people well. But as much as I beat on it I am happy with the amazon version. It will last forever 😃🔧
Yup. Hubshocker tool is incredible. There's countless videos on CZcams of guys killing themselves, spending hours or days, trying to remove frozen bearings. I was one of them because my notorious Subaru bearings froze and I killed myself trying to get them off. I found the hubreaker tool and 3 hits and the bearing came right out. It's a great tool. If you're in a bind or can't spend the money on a hub buster and can weld, you can make one for a particular application by using an old "wheel rotor" and welding a 2 foot bar to it. I've seen guys do that and it works just as good.
Awsome man! I agree!! I was going to initially make one also. But I didn’t have the right material I needed to do it. Instead of purchasing material I purchased the tool. Thing is a beast. I’ve done them the hard way, I think that’s why I like it so much. It’s brutally hard any other way on a lot of vehicles. Life saver😀
Worked like a champ on rear driver hub on a 2015 Forester (Western PA rust belt). You will need 2" bolts (grade 8 1/2 inch worked for me and didn't bend). 2.5 inch is too long and interferes with parking brake mechanism. Otherwise, maybe a good hard five hits and off it came. Thanks for the video!
Smart move to leave the nut on because if the bearing would split in half it would really make things harder. After wathching this I'm happy that I never worked on a Subaru like that but if I will in the future I now know what it takes.
Thanks a lot for checking it out! Really appreciate you. Ya, these Subbie's are super difficult. I used to separate them with a slide hammer and then use an air hammer to walk them around in the knuckle until I could free them. It's was quite difficult but it worked. Now the shocker pops em out easy for me. I have used it on quite a few other vehicles. Have a great new year! 😃🛠
I used the hubshocker on a front 2013 subaru hub and the hub ended up separating in 2. Decided to just replace the knuckle also. Have you had hubs separate using this tool?
@EasyFix. Thank you - I will make sure and do that when I do the rear hubs. I also got a set of grade 8 bolts for the attachment. I had been hitting the hub shocker with a smaller short handled sledge but will give my new 10lb long handle sledge a workout on the next go around. Love your videos! Thanks again!
Thats what i do too. I always try my 48oz antivibe hammer first. Works for me about 50% of the time. If not, I use my 8lb sledge and a 6x6 chunk of wood under the knuckle to transfer more energy to the rust bond between bearing and knuckle.
Great point! If that happens I will notice it before I mount the Shocker by pushing on the axle. If it doesn't move freely from corrosion, I use lubricant and an impact hammer punch to vibrate and push on the axle end until it loosens up. The cv-axle will start to jump around and slide inside the splines once it loosens. I then continue to use the Shocker and the axle will usually slide right out 😃🔧
Will this method not bend the shaft axle? Maybe safer to remove firstthe axle shhaft before making a hammer blow.Suspension absorbs some force instead of going all to the hub,wood support under the hub holder is better on this method.
The shaft will not bend. It can articulate no problem at the Constant velocity joint at the knuckle. A block of wood is a great method for transmitting extra energy to the knuckle. I have experienced some extremely stuck wheel bearings where that helped break the rust bond between the knuckle and the bearing. Good tip 😀🔧
When I removed the hub on my Outback I used a slide hammer I made years ago for removing axles. The hub came out and left the bearing in the casing. If I had left the axle nut on like you show in the video maybe the bearing would have come out, but I am leary of damaging the CV axle and/or its nut and threads. What do you think? The same bearing needs replacement again but I plan to use a tool similar to yours in the video but custom designed and built in my free time this week.
I leave the nut on frequently as a failsafe because some of these bearing replacements are so bad (especially subbies). As long as the sensor is removed where applicable, the only damage is the dust shield on the shaft will get bent. I have bent them all back with success, just superficial damage. I dislodge the bearing so it moves out maybe an inch or so. Then I remove the cv axle nut at that point so it doesn't separate at either joint 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Thanks for your quick reply and also for your fast and to-the-point video presentation. Usually I speed up CZcams videos but yours I had to slow down a bit in sections. I have never had the CV shaft out so I was also concerned about the end in the differential. I do not know if it has a "keeper" in the differntial and how much it could slide without harm or disengagement. Can you address the concerns? Do you think the axle nut should be loosened prior to bearing removal and then simply snugged up (to avoid bearing separation, as your purpose explained). Given your explanation, with the axle nut still installed, I wonder if my slide hammer would have still worked out the bearing from the housing. My slide hammer has a very hefty chunk of round stock for mass impact.
@@EasyFixShaun I finished the 2nd hub/bearing assembly today. It came out with ease since it was new only 1-1/2 years ago since it was new and I had a thin film of anti-seize on all mating surfaces. The cheaper 1 year warranty assembly from the parts store failed so this time I bought the SKF assembly with a 5 year warranty from a different store. The Astro Tools 78834 "Last Chance" looks like it would work if it is used in the "cocked" angle fashion for a rusted assembly. Trying to use it "evenly" will likely pull the hub out and leave the bearing inside and that is likely why the Hub Shocker works so well, because of the "cocked" angle shock. I made a tool similar to the Shocker but with a plate and two opposing long arms to pound on. The arms are welded to the plate with 5 slots to fit all 5 hole only patterns and the arms are welded with gussets to prevent weld breakage. After that I welded an angle iron between the two arms at the outer end and realized that the gussets were likely not necessary anymore. Now I have an over-engineered tool. (I saw a few photos where the arms welding had broken loose, and that inspired my planning.) I really appreciate how you did your video with such speed and to the points. You really inspired me, just in the nick of time!
I replaced my 2009 Forester's original rear left hub yesterday. The Hub Shocker and this video did it. This video lives up to the facts, no staging. My Forester has spent 11 years in NJ and Maryland in a winter salt environment. I replaced a bearing on my 08 Outback the hard way 4 years ago. The hub buster and the method in the 2.0 Video works! Im a shade tree mechanic with a very good tool collection and ability, but it took me about 15 swings with an 8pound sledge to realize it was OK to really get down to business and beat the heck out of it. I swung harder, I didn't keep track of swings, but I'd say less than 40 swings and I saw the first sign of a black between the backer plate and the knuckle, so I knew I was home free and just a few more whacks. My backer plate was rusted so I changed the plate, brake shoes, hardware, rotors and pads on both side. After the bearing was off the knuckle the the next part was cleaning up with a wire brush and putting the parking brake puzzle back together. Any tips for removing the parking brake cable from the brake lever? I just worked it with a pair of kneedle nose while my wife held the shoe with the lever and slipped the lever back on the cable, unless there a special tool I don't know of , this part of the parking brake job is good with four hands, she also held the shoes while I put the springs in place. If I could post photos in the comments I would add some, or message me off line and I'll share. thanks Shaun, keep the videos coming!
Thanks a lot for the follow up! I am happy it worked for you. In Michigan all of our parking brake stuff is rusted bad also. They are major pain. I don't have any tips other than side cutters and sheer determination to get it done. I usually use side cutters to pull the spring back and hold the cable while detaching or reattaching it. The side cutters just make it easy because the spring has to much force for pryers to be able to hold it easily. I don't use the cutters to cut, just to hold the cable, it doesn't cut any strands of wires, it just grips them. Hope that helps. Did you through bolt with 1/2" grade 5's? Did you use the cv-axle nut trick?
@@EasyFixShaun I used the lugs on the hub. I used two old fully threaded lug nuts I had in my spare bin, and 1/2 inch grade 8 washers, zapped on with an impact. I had half inch Grade 8 bolts as a back up. When I first removed the axle nut, the axle wasn't free in the spindle, so I hammered with a brass drift and it came free with a few hits, brass drifts are handy when hitting a steal part you don't want deform. Then I put the axle nut back on with one tap with the impact gun, and started swinging. When I saw the hub was moving I took the axle nut off and kept swinging. I also ordered from McMasterCarr as a back up M12x1.50- 70 mm (2.75 inch) long grade 5 bolts in case the hub bearing came apart with the housing left on the knuckle. I measured the height of the hub housing, 70mm seemed to be enough to clear the housing, I could use the 70mm bolts to thread into the hub housing from the parking brake side and install the Hub Shocker and keep hammering ( if this makes sense, sometimes I can overthink a job) . Neither back up was necessary, it came right off, and probably would have come off quicker if I had a better feel of how heavy to swing. To finally tighten the axle nut, I used an old broom stick hand to depress the brakes (no helpers were home at the time!).
Nice job man. You crushed it! You had a plan and a backup plan. And a back up plan for the back up plan. A lot of people don’t prepare and do these the hard way. The are doable any way you can get them out. I like the easy way! Great feedback. I’m super happy it worked for you 😃
Do we have to worry about damage to the CV axle or bushings and/or the hub assembly coming apart leaving the ultra difficult piece stuck in the knuckle after all?
The cv axle trick in the video solves that problem by keeping the entire bearing assembly in one piece. it will hold it all together so the tool can perform its function. There is 1-2 inches of of inner and outer movement room for the cv axle. So once the bearing pops out of the hole remove the cv axle nut and axle stub shaft. The cv axle serves as the fail safe to hold the bearing together while in normal use and also works great for rusted and stuck wheel bearings while using the tool. Ive done this a lot. Sometimes a dust shield on the cv axle is damaged and bent a little bit. I just bent them back a little and they are good. There is always risk of something happening. For a stuck wheel bearing it can be a better alternative than the bearing half remaining in the knuckle.
@@EasyFixShaun Once the bearing half has come apart and remains in the knuckle, will this tool work? I got it all back together by tightening the axle nut back on. I was going to drive it over to Subaru and pay them $650 but would love to finish what I started if this tool will do the trick.
I need this tool so Im checking reviews. Your video is great, but Im more impressed that you checked the load balance on the car before you raised it too high. Non of the other videos or shops Ive watched have done this. I guess its why there are so many lift fail videos on here.
If you need to replace bearings, this tool is well worth the money. It worked quickly and easily for me on my Subaru. I wasted a full day plus trying and renting every other tool from Orielly Auto Parts to no avail. Broke down and bought this. 5 minutes and 3 hits and the bearing was on the floor. I've since given it to buddies who were having similar issues with their Dodge trucks and removing bearings. Same thing. A few hard whacks and the bearings are on the floor.
Good question. I have never seen that happen. The problem is the rust bond. The tool is an attempts to break the rust bond that is holding the knuckle and wheel bearing together, once that happens you are on your way. The knuckles are super strong and might even be the strongest component of the steering and suspension, unless I am forgetting something.....?
Have you ever tried a hub shocker with a pressed in wheel bearing? Of course it would come apart in two pieces but I don't see a reason it wouldn't work to get the hub off....
I haven’t tried that. The hub shockers are for bolt-in style wheel bearings only. A slide hammer would be the best solution to separate a press in bearing. Then you can access the bearing for service. Here is a press-in wheel bearing replacement video if you need one! 😃czcams.com/video/CInFJDz11II/video.html
Looks like you have press in style front bearings and bolt in style rear bearings. Tool should work great on the rears. Here is the front bearing video if you need it 😃🔧czcams.com/video/P5bwlKKpusk/video.html
Once the tool is mounted could you you lower the vehicle onto a block where you hammer it to use the weight of the vehicle to pop it out or is the hammer shocking it that does the trick? Maybe the weight wouldn’t work with the rust jacking.
I think that could work. I could try it. Putting a block under the suspension would deliver more energy to the bearing and the rust bond to pop it out slightly easier. There is a little suspension bounce that if removed would help. I do em in the air though and it works great. 😃🔧
I second this. On my 2014, I had to remove the whole rear knuckle and take it to Pepboys for them to press out the hub ($60). I now have another hub going bad (my car only has 65K miles but I live in PA) and I am trying to determine if I should spend the money and buy one of these for the rare occurrence of hub failures. I hate one off rare tools...
@@94cobragermany Chad I would buy the tool. It will make your whole life a whole lot easier if you are a diy kinda person. It's like a hammer. Good to always have it in the tool box and on standby. Especially if you live in the salt belt or other rusty areas. It works on other vehicles too. You can lend it out. No parts stores carry them yet. So you want to have it ready ahead of time. 😃🔧🔧
@@94cobragermany So True trying to get one home made to save the 200$ , if you we’re doing on a constant basis good tools are essential. I am getting to old for that kind of frustration.
looks it is working great. But would every other parts be okay while you are hammering like that hard ? such as breaking the Knuckle or CV axle or any other connected suspension stuffs?
The weak link is the bond between the knuckle and the wheel bearing. Anything is possible. But it hasn't caused any issues for me other than breaking the rust bond at the wheel bearing and freeing it from the knuckle. I have the some of the most corroded vehicles on the planet. Putting a block of wood below the knuckle is a great way to transfer more force directly to the wheel bearing. Less bounce from the suspension. I have had to do that a great times. The alternative is knuckle removal and pressing it out. If you do that make sure to get an alignment immediately afterwards 😀🔧
Eh sure it works great but I already made the same thing with a hooked edge so I don’t have to remove studs for like 10$ worth of scrap metal, feel free to use my idea as an implementation on ur idea, slight over hang on the top followed by a lil lip on the back, slide on tap it take it off
You put the axle nut back on, and that keeps the bearing from separating and leaving half of it behind?? Last week I spent hours grinding off the hardened steel backside of the wheel bearing.. fun times.
At 6:43 you discuss what position that the tool should be on before you hit it. It seems to me, that if you have it at 12 o'clock....the top, that you are putting force on the hub to pull it out.....the leverage is right. When it's at the bottom, you're trying to break the top free and that seems like it is not putting the force directly on the top as it is when you have the tool at the top. Both ways you are freeing the top of the bearing first. It's hard to explain but seems to make sense to me.
Good thought. I think you are on to something there. It does change the direction of force slightly through the bearing to pop it out. Seems to work equally well whichever side is used from me experience 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun I was thinking about this more after commenting, and so with the bar at the bottom, the bar is hanging by the top and the force is going into the hub, BUT also into the casting of the axle. I just wonder if it might be possible to crack off a piece of the axle housing? The other way the force is all going into the hub with the pivot down farthest away from the force. Seems like more force onto the hub and less onto the axle.
@@writerjmd I think hitting a pot hole at 25-55mph could and would provide 10X the force at knuckle VS a sledge on a hub shocker. Knuckles don't break often. Usually accidents is where broken knuckles are seen most. Anything is possible. I haven't seen a knuckle break in a shop ever for any reason. I am sure it has happened somewhere but I doubt its from a Hub shocker. The rust bond between the wheel bearing and knuckle is the weak ling and will break, or the hub will separate. Trick in the video for that... Some cars are made cheaper than others. But for the most part engineers thankfully have not cheapened up knuckles yet. They seem to have no problem making cheap metallurgy in wheel bearings though. That is where the real issues are. Some are very very dangerous quality. My 2 cents 😃🔧
i bet if you use this tool with the astro "Last Chance" hub remover to keep pressure on the bearing while you hit the big tool, the bearing pops off in way less hits.....either way, it's going to take a ton of pressure and usually the backing plate is rotted away after you get the bearing out...great video
So I bought this as I have a subaru legacy that tried to reppace 1 by all the other usual methods and all failed had to put it all back together and have a shop do it so after that bought this. Also have a 4WD suburban that uses hubs on the front. After watching your video I found what seems to be the best option for strength and hold: someone else suggested bolt thru and nut as you did but using a grade 8, 1/2"-13x2 1/2" flange bolts with 1/2"-13 flange nuts worked REALLY well. No bend or break. Metric would be a grade 10.9 (or 12.9) 12-1.5x60mm. Thread pitch can vary of course some probably use a 1.25 pitch but finding a 2.5" in metric is difficult as it's 63mm. They DO offer a 65mm but that might be slightly too long so a 60mm would work. Felt ut may help you and anyone else looking to get this but truly the best way IS to tap out a couple nut studs and thru bolt it direct, leave the axle nut snugged (break it loose first then tighten it back up slightly) and that does give you the best hold. Beyond that rather than a grease inside the knuckle I HIGHLY recommend using anti seize whether aluminum or preferably copper. The spray is a bit pricey but well worth it otherwise getting the bottle with the brush works just fine. This will help lubricate installation while also protecting it from rusting and seizing up later on. I use it on my brake pad channels and backs of the pads as well as where the rotor meets the hub. It will save a ton of time breaking things apart and limits rust build up so less time cleaning up.
@Easy Fix you asked for an update here it is: did the suburban front hubs, found using the thru bolt from the back with the 2.5" length was best, another bit that helps is to use a jack under the lower arm just enough to hold it steady to eliminate bounce. FIRST SWING on both hubs! Took me longer to set up than to get em out and they were SEVERELY rust welded too. Now my brother has a 2012 Mazda cx-9 that uses hubs on the rear and he wants me to change out a bad 1 on that. Just using it to do the suburban hubs has already paid for itself!!
The nut can be reused in some vehicles and not in others. Always replace it if you are unsure. Some wheel bearings come with a new one in the box. On this Subaru the nut is reusable as long and the detented area is intact and can be be re-staked. The dented area is the previously staked area. It is the failsafe to slow the nut down if it were to try to back off. Sometimes when torquing the nut it ends in a different spot with new material to be staked and that will work also.
Awesome! Thanks man. I think the worlds largest salt mine is in Michigan and they sell that stuff to everywhere. The rust belt probably has the worst cars and the best boats. Salt for cars. Fresh water for boats. 👨🏼🔧
Where did you aquire that wheel bearing removal tool? I have a ebay slide hammer kit, a fwd wheel bearing removal/installer tool(its basically a 40 some piece disc & cup set with a forcing screw) 20 ton press & of course many different hand tools. I see that your power tool selection is better then mine!!!! Where did you purchase that tool?
That type of hub/bearing seems like a nightmare. SO much surface area to weld together. I saw on one video that the mechanic was dealing with an aluminum knuckle. Holy dissimilar metal corrosion, Batman! Anti-seize anybody?
Yes! When the bearing fits really tightly it makes them even worse. Thats the main problem with subaru. They are machined precisely. The bearing and knuckle fit is tight. That can cause some issues down the road when corrosion sets in. Some bearings and knuckles are a little more liberal on tolerances and a hammer to knock them out is all that is usually needed. Pros and cons. 😀🔧
Have you done a front wheel bearing on a Prius yet. I usually take spindle off use my brass punch a big one .drive hub out of bearing remove bearings .weld a bead on outer bearing were balls sit front and back ..and they practically fall out actually use air hammer to push them out of spindle
Oh wow. If you used this on a bolt-in style Prius bearing....I bet the tool would pop it out perfectly. I have not tried one yet on Prius though, so I can't speak to that one yet. I would try it all day long though when I get the chance.😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun I live in Vermont and the steel bearing and aluminum spindle curode really bad ..my press with 12 ton jack couldn't do a few ..so a friend said turn welder up on boil and lay a bead on bearing where balls ride ..it works really good . And the rim pipe thing has a flange welded about a foot up so it is higher and you can flip it over to make shorter
@@jaymartin5434 No problem man. Thanks for the ideas really appreciate. Yes if the suspension was supported while using the tool it is more effective. The energy will transfer more efficiently to the bearing. I haven't done that yet and have not had any issues. But I have used the support method many times working with ball joints and some other repairs where things were bouncing and needed support. Once supported everything will always work better. 😀🔧
Hey mate, I tried to replace my wheelbearing today and I got stuck not being able to get the CV axle out of the hub, do you have any tips on what I could try?? I ended up giving up and putting it back together lol
I usually use a punch that fits in the small hole on the end of the shaft. That way you don’t damage the threads. I usually use an air hammer or a regular hammer. 😀🔧🔧
This tool works amazing and you can also use the hitch from the back of your truck instead of this tool. The reason I'm making a comment is because you are using the tool incorrectly. Think of this as the claw of a hammer pulling out a nail, when you have it down its is shoving it in from the bottom and pulling at the same time. From the top it pulls out best like a dream as from your first part of this video.
Awesome thanks for the tip!! How would you use the hitch? Could it be bolted on somehow? That would be pretty cool and could save some money and time. Especially for someone that is mid-project and needs a tool now...
yeah you would need to take the ball off and in its place, you lug nut the tongue of it just like your tool bolted on, and smack the receiving end from the top down. @@EasyFixShaun
I have used slide hammers, air hammers, torches.. you name it, and nothing beats what you already have on your truck. or this tool if you don't have a hitch. :)
Your video's are very good. I have a 1998 Subaru Forester with mandatory replace wheelbearings every other year problem. Live in GB WI so close to Michigan weather and rust. With the exception of the expensive wheel bearing and a few other WTH things the Forester is great and I would like to keep but running out of OEM parts. You know of a good Forester tech in my area I would be very interested. Again, please keep up the video's they are exceptional. Also are you saying the Detroit Axle - Front Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement for Subaru will work on my Forester? Regards
Hi , just take out the Spindle with the wheel bearing and use A Hydraulic Press ,such as 10k Tones to separate the Wheel Bearing instead of using damaging Forces by hitting the Wheel Bearing ..
@@EasyFixShaun Thanks for the reply! Super cool. I actually placed an order on Amazon for grade 10.9, m12x50mm bolts and m12 lock nuts. I'm not sure if they will work yet, but thanks again!
Excellent! No problem. Might be a little small in size unless thats what you already have in your tool kit. But it could be enough to work also. Did it work for you?
I agree about collateral damage. I own a Sube. Not liking they went to steel and aluminum bearing interface.Sucks. We retired and got a new 19. Last one was an 09. It gets old I’ll be doing half shafts etc. damn Not happy
When the car is new, removing the bearing is easy. You could pop em off, coat the mating surfaces with anti-sieze, and 100K later you'll be so glad you did!! OTOH, Subaru could do it at the factory.
I like to be less intrusive and gradually work my way up in force applied. I usually try to dislodge the wheel bearing without the jack stand support first. If that fails, I usually then try a jack stand to transfer more energy to the rust bond between the parts 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Is there a general time frame it takes before most come out. I assume I'll need to tighten the cv axle nut back on before I start using the tool?
Usually it takes me 1-12 hits of a hammer. The cv axle tricks isn't necessary to hold a bearing together if it stays together on its own. If it starts to get loose its a nice trick to pull it back together so it can still be removed as a unit, the way it was designed to be removed. I usually assess as i go. If the cv trick is used make sure you remove the abs sensor so it isn't broken if you have one. In my experience if the bearing separates, the remaining piece is even harder to remove because there is nothing much remaining to push or pull on. They are nightmares. I will do everything i can to remove in one piece. Rust jacking is a serious problem. There are a lots of models right now that are having lower bearing life and harder replacements.
@@EasyFixShaun So do you leave the axle nut off when you start? Or do you leave the axle nut on? Someone told me when they hit the bearing with a hammer they only try to hit on opposite sides of the bearing to, "work the bearing off side to side". Do I do the same with the tool? Sorry for so many questions trying to avoid the bearing separation you were talking about above.
I don't work side to side. The tool only really works to break the bearing rust bond free from the top. That is because you need to strike it in a typical hammer motion. It won't work side to side with the tool. I use the tool and strike in a downward motion and the tool breaks the rust bond between bearing and knuckle to free it. I leave the nut off to start with. I monitor the bearing for looseness/separation after I strike the tool. If it starts to get loose and separate, I put the nut back on and tighten it up to hold the bearing together. That is how I get it out in one piece. I have another video showing how to remove in 2 piece and it suckkkkkkkkks. One piece is much much 1000x better for me. Using the axle nut to hold a bearing together during removal is an advanced concept I came up with for crazy difficult bearings and with use of this tool. I also use a 8lb sledgehammer now 😃🔧
Hey! All great points! Did you see the second hub shocker video I made. I have you a shout out for the tip on through bolting the tool. That gm is how I do it every single time now. The tool combined with through bolting and using the cv axle and nut to hold the bearing unit together....has made Subaru rear bearing replacements easy. Any other way....all I can say is that it will be one of the hardest repair experiences anyone will have. I love the tool you made. Sounds awsome!
Ya it’s great to hear from you. That’s awsome man. I want to make one someday. I like the simplicity of it. As soon as I find a need or if I break my tool I want to give it a shot.
Ok, I will try that! I think will work great. My first try will be just like in the video. Through bolts/held together with the cv nut/sledge hammer. I bet it pops out like butter 🔧🔧
@@EasyFixShaun hi it's me again. Little update on the rear bearing job on a 2014 explorer. Did another one today. We used the tool that you have. Three guys of three different builds. Pounded on it with a 10lbs sledge and could not get it out. Wound up putting the knuckle in the press to get it out. It fought the hole way out tho. We believe there is to much material in the knuckle bore and it won't allow the bearing to tip when you hit it. If you can get one out with this tool. You will be a real life Thor. 🔨🔨🔨🔨
@@wilwiener Dang! Do you think they build the ford knuckle so close in tolerance the the bearing that causes the problem? The subarus are barely big enough for the hub bearing unit. When new and not rusted they slip together like you would want them to. But as soon as rust gets in between the parts, it is rust jacked baddddd. Man I wish the tool worked for you. I'm sorry man. That sounds horrendous..
@@wilwiener Thank you for getting back to me. I was really trying to find one asap to try the tool on. You saved me a ton of work. I think I feel very cautious about recommending these on the ford explorers for the time being. Pressing is best until a better method can be discovered. By the way you describe it.....I don't know man. I think pressing is the only way. Thanks a lot. Have a great weekend!
@@EasyFixShaun the tolerances are very tight. The opening in the steering knuckle has a very deep bore in it. There's probably an inch to an inch and a half of area that the tolerance is so tight once the two different types of metal make their molecular Bond. Apparently the aftermarket is now selling hub and knuckle assemblies where the bearing is pre-installed in the knuckle.
I live in Michigan too and just had this issue.. got hit for 440$ to remove the knuckle, they broke the abs bolts I think, so I ended up paying the machine shop they use to press out the bearing from the hub..I wasn't happy as I could have removed the whole knuckle and broke the abs myself only to pay to replace the sensor as well... I'm wondering if they just found it easier to break the sensor and charge me to press it out rather than dick with it manually.
These are a nightmare if you don't have 7 methods of removal ready to tackle them when issues pop up. With the shocker they are fairly easy for me. Some are stubborn and twitter more time getting mounting correct. I've broken mounting bolts. But the shocker is the best for the salt belt 😀🔧
Made one just like it. Every time I have used it, the hub pops off and leaves the bearing. Had to use chisel then sand the damaged knuckle. Maybe it's just life in NE Ohio.
Try the "CV-AXLE TRICK" in the video. It will hold the bearing together in one piece while you beat on the tool to break the rust bond holding it in the knuckle 😀🔧
You could always debur the holes a bit until it fits your 4 lug bolt pattern. You could also try attaching it to one lug only. That may be enough force for you. That is what I would do. I haven't had a four bolt wheel bearing yet to try it on. I am sure it would work 😃🔧
another item in my toolbox that the boss will always want to borrow... When I started, all the other mechanics made fun of my tools. craftsman spline wrenches and sockets, and a whole lot of homemade tools, even my toolbox is homemade. they were and are sporting the Mac or Snap-on toolboxes with all the bells and whistles, blowing $200,000 on tools just to do the same job I get done with less than $200 of purchased tools, and about $800 worth of homemade. Think I'll weld me one of these up this week. Sure I have the scrap around to do it.
I have a lot of craftsman tools. They work great. I have all kinds of tools. I have always tried to purchased what works best. Some stuff I need name brand and some stuff I don't. I think you should make one. They are a simple tool really, which is what makes them so cool. I love your comment, "another tool the boss will want to borrow". haha! 😃🔧
Very true. I have with worked with a lot of metal. So i am very familiar. Plus i check to make sure nothing weird happened after pounding them out. I am also using south main auto's bolt method more and more. It doesn't work that great on the Subbies, but works great on everything else. It's a Simple effective perfect method 😃
Purchased one and it ripped the hub apart at the bearing now the backside is stuck in the knuckle so I have to remove that to get it pressed out….just take it to a shop and pay the professionals folks cause my car is stuck on jackstands and can’t get to the mechanic.
Sometimes you can salvage what happened and keep going with success. Try the cv axle nut trick in the video. If you can place the hub back on the bearing with enough cv axle threads sticking out- you pull it all back together. The nut will hold it all together until it is removed as a complete unit. That trick is super important to use if the hub starts getting loose 😀🔧
....that can't possibly require a sledge hammer. It's theater , right ?. Scotty doesn't care much for Subaru for some other reasons. I have no experience of problems caused by salt in roads except I've left my angle grinder out in the weather and when I come to want to change disk I had to rig eighteen inches or two feet of leverage cos nothing would budge using the normal hand size tools . There was hardly any visible corrosion though, unbelievable .
Not usually the best tool for a severely stuck bearing for me. Could work though. I have tried it many times. Usually that method will separate the bearing into two halves. Then an air hammer needs to be used to try to spin the remaining portion still stuck in the knuckle to loosen it. It does work. Much more difficult compared to the Shocker for me. The cv-axle trick in the video would help keep it together using the slide hammer method though 😃🔧
Got this tool after spending a day and a half replacing front bearings on a 2014 rusted subaru forester (87k) hoping for a miracle. Well I beat on the thing up and down, side to side....and trust me at 200lbs I can put the hammer to it.... nothing budged. I had to go back to chisel at the top of bearing assembly. Finally I could get a crack and pb blaster in .... then the tool was helpfull to rock the bearing out. The stuff they put on roads, in combo to subaru's asinine bearings... never Subaru again. Powder coated nonsense. The bright side , I now own a $100 tool that I hope never to use again. Anyone want it for cheap?
I am sorry it didn't work for you. I have only ever needed to use the shocker tool for the rear of any Subaru here in Michigan. We have the worst rust in the world. On the front Subaru bearings you just strike the hub flange and the bearing will dislodge. I have a video on how to do the front hub units. The fronts are a cake walk from every aspect for me and no special tools are needed. The Shocker is really only needed on the rear of Subbie's. I have also used it on many other makes and it works great.
No need to apologize, I appreciate your helpful videos, thank you. The tool did come in handy to get the assembly to rock out once I got a crack developed with chisel.... by the way I did it without any power tools... just hand sledge and chisel.... urgh.
Also I didn't use it on front, the front was horrible ..... which got me to buy the hub shocker for the rear. Honestly the chisel was the only thing to get a crack to open.
*_New sway bar link video_* czcams.com/video/0S8JBe_jn6g/video.html
Thanks! Leaving the axle nut on saved me when using the Astro "Last Chance" Hub remover bolts. Without that the hub just ripped apart
Nice work! Thats awsome 😀😀
You did what I did. I lathered the new one with anti seize when I put it back together. I don't want to have to beat it out a second time.
Yes sir! It will come out easier next time. 😀🔧
You should lower car down and support suspension with a block.... Would make a solid shock hit and less damage to suspension.
That’s a great idea thank you. I will try that. All bearings have come out so far. Even ones that are extremely stuck and rusted. You are right though 😀
I used the longer bolt method as outlined in this video, bearing was out in 3 whacks. Wouldn't budge before because the shocker was moving too much when struck. Thanks for the tip @easy fix, worked great. @Thundertef I'll try supporting the other side on a stand next time I do it and see how much better it will be. I noticed a lot of other movement and such with the suspension drooped. I think you make a good point!
Cool! I'm glad you got your bearings out 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun so am I! And your bolt suggestion was really what did it! Thanks again, you’ve got a sub from me.
@@cordcd7 Cool! I really appreciate that 😃
Thank you so much for the video, worked one bearing for 3 hours and got nowere took a brake and after watching your video I went back out to my shop and made one of my own. Im a welder fabricator by trade took me about 1/2 hour to make and 5 wacks later it was off. Thanks again 👍👍
Wow! Great work man! The tool is a must have. Im glad it helped out 😀🔧
Great video!!!.... this is the stuff that makes the Internet priceless. Thanks again for taking the time to share your methods using the Hub shocker. Went right to method 3, down to the bolts, and the hub assembly came off in 5 blows.
I’m so glad it helped you out! No problem. Super glad I could help out 😀
I just wanted to comment thanks again man. That was a really nice comment. 🙂
I received this tool as a gift and had a chance to use it on my wife’s explorer (we live on New York), and this thing made very short work of the front hub/bearing job! I wish I would have bought one years ago.
Thanks for sharing! That is awsome. I love mine too. Very valuable to have 😃
I’m not one to comment but did this job for a friend and I had multiple tools on hand I wanted to try but ended up going straight with the hub shocker. The lug nut method did not work as well and only started to strip the lug nuts and once I removed the studs and bolted in straight on it took three small wacks with a 4lb hammer (making sure to support the suspension with a small jack and wood block) and it was good to go. Great tool for how simple it is. Kudos to anyone who has the ability to make one themselves. It’s far worth it! Thanks so much for the video!!
Awsome! I am glad it worked for you. I have found if the tool rocks at all the energy transfer is gone. Through bolting fixes this😃😃
Made my new tool today cost me all of about 5$ there are how to make it so i gave it a shot sanded it down painted it red to find it when needed did not have to pay 100$ for it. You can go to Hub buster made from hitch receiver just use 2by2 square stock 1/4 inch wall thickness used a 1/2 inch plate made a timplate like the video welded 1 1/2 wide by 3 inches long flat stock to strike also welded some flat stock on end so as not to flatten square tube.Took less than hour to build. Thanks for the video.
No way! Dude that is awesome 😃🔧
Just replaced a rear bearing on a 2011 explorer. Tried the hub buster with a sledge hammer for shout an hour. Didn't do the trick even though I have successfully used it on other bearings. Had to beat it out for another half hour. Still love the tool, but I have to say that it met its match and then some this past weekend.
Nice work! I agree. I have also found the Fords are insane. Sorry it didn't work for you. I also love mine. I am finding the explorer and escape on the ford most troubling. The solution for those is the astro tools 78834 "last chance" remover. I put a link in the description for you 😃🔧 amzn.to/3JgbSYf
Thanks for the link, but believe it or not these too failed. The dug into the aluminum knuckle and in one spot gouged out a small piece of metal. Didn't want to push it so I stuck to wacking from behind with a heavy hammer. Great vid!
No kidding! Sorry you had trouble. Great job sticking with it 😃🔧
I have a 2018 Explorer, had to do both rears. 2 air hammers, hub buster, nothing was successful so I ran a 1/2" bolt through wheel stud holes, put 2 washers and a nut and actually used it as a home made press, kept switching sides of bearing and it popped right out. Had a little dimpling on the aluminum knuckle which I will clean up. A 4 year old SUV and these were the hardest ones Ive done yet. Gotta love Wisconsin!!!! Just gotta be creative sometimes i guess.
Those Ford's are the only vehicles the Shocker has not worked on for me also. They are on a whole new level. Nice work. The bolt method is the only method on those that will work, besides removal of the knuckle to press the bearing out. Or replacement. Great job! You have replaced the most difficult 😃🔧
Clean the area up to metal then put never seize lube onto the parts! It keeps water out thus prevents rust.
Great tip 😀😀
Tried a sledge hammer by itself, then a slide hammer no luck, within 15 min of UPS delivering this tool the bearing and hub were out! Many thanks, just subscribed.
Outstanding! Glad to have you! I am glad it worked out 😃😃
I don't do axles that much but when I do, I use a hub shocker. :)
It makes the job a lot less frustrating. Bolting the axle back to hold it together is a clever trick. Thank you.
Right on 😃🔧
Once you clean the rust from the spindle, spray it with Fluid Film. It will save the next guy or you from all the rust. Also use it on the hub face.
Good tip! Lubricate everything if you can 😀
@@EasyFixShaun Hi, seeing that you have tried so many ways before this tool came along and i expect not all makes might be that stubborn but have you ever tried penetrating fluid say a day before and doesnt even that do the trick!?
Hey! Yes I have tried that and I think that’s a great way to make things easy. These Modern Subaru’s though have a particular problem. They are machined so tightly that any rust between the knuckle and bearing will “rust jack” them into place. Even with the bolts removed they seem welded in place. It’s amazing how bad they are. Typically I would rust penetrate for sure with any brand. The tool is basically for massively stuck wheel bearings. There are a ton of makes that have a similar problem. Rust penetrant would be much easier and cheaper. 😀
@easy fix I think it's a dissimilar metals issue when combined with salt and tight tolerances that cause a majority of this problem
That is exactly what i think is happening also 😀🔧
Your channel is really a nugate !!! Thanks for sharing precious information to help others all arround the world !!!
You are welcome! Thank you for a nice comment 😃
Second thing I'm impressed with. You compressed the caliper using a screw driver! I've been doing this for 10+ years while others spend way too much time with a C-Clamp.
Good trick man! Yup, I compress nearly every standard caliper piston this way. Fast, easy, no damage. An old timer taught me the trick a long time ago. He forgot more than I will ever know. It was one of the first pro tips I can remember learning from my mentor. I used to use a c-clamp also.
@@EasyFixShaun I bought the Hub Buster because Im doing a 4X4 avalanche and nothing is getting the hub off. Heat and all the tricks and I couldnt even crack the line. Three whacks with this and its 90% out. Just need to smack it from the bottom back to pop it out. I also used the EOM lug nuts. They are safer and have more grab. It does ruin them, but considering the Hub Buster is one of the most solid tools Ive used and comes with the cheapest Chinese nuts Ive ever seen its better this way.
Awsome! I’m glad you got your bearing out. Sounds like it was pretty stuck. I love how solid the tools are built too! Nice job😀
@@imderrickjed seems like having a stock of lugs and then just asking which vehicle its for them sending 3 of those with the tool would be more feasible than sending 10 cheap random nuts to everyone..
I dined use lug nuts anymore with the tool. I knock a couple lug studs out and through bolt the tool into place every time. Much stronger. I use grade 8 bolts. I still bend and break them off at times. But it's the best method 😀🔧
I usually just leave one or two bolts in the hub and pound it out from the back, works every time. This tool looks like it's easier but seems like you could damage knuckle easier as well.
That is a fantastic trick if you have access. There are actually some great adaptors for air hammers too when using that method that won't damage the bolts. Amazing tools. Access is key on a lot of vehicles. That trick works great on jeeps. In the rust belt 900 methods need be ready to go at all times 😂😀🔧
Enjoy watching you guys fighting with rust like mad men 🤣 When I removed those 4 bolts, the hub fell out by itself. Fixing cars like royals in CA.
Peanut butter and jealous 😀😀🔧🔧
Happy I found your channel, you explained all the detail issues one would come upon trying to install these sensors. Thanks
Glad I could help 😃😃
Greatest tool EVER. Much more effective if you support the bottom of the knuckle with a jackstand, to eliminate movement of the suspension while striking. SUBARU"S are great,,, money makers!
I agree. Can't live with out it now. It has been a game changer on Subaru's and some other Notoriously hard to remove bearings. The jack stand trick is awsome, good call. I have incorporated a 6X6 chunk of wood (in place of the jack stand) into some Extremely hard bearing removals. It really does transfer even more energy into the bearing to help break that rust bond. Super useful 😃🔧
The best method is penetrating oil and the hub shocker at the 12 o'clock position. You want to put the force down into the center. The way you're doing it is putting all the stress on the studs. It's no wonder why you've snapped them. I'm in northeast NJ. Plenty of snow and salt. I've done too many wheel bearings to count. A lot of police vehicles also. My hub shocker has never failed me. Like I said though, the key is to have the vehicle lower, the tool at 12 o'clock, and strike down like you're trying to ring the bell at the carnival. 🤣🤣🤣 Do that and they'll pop every time.
Those are all good tips. Will those work on Explorers and Edges?
A lot of your force is being transferred to the strut. You need to support it solid to make the best bag for your buck
Correct 😀 a block of 6X6 wood seems to be working good for me
Good call on the axle shaft nut being on .
Thanks man. It’s saved me a lot of frustration and time 😀
Looking at your informative quality videos thought you would have hundreds of thousands of subscribers! You deserve more #underrated 👍
Wow, thank you 😃
I made a similar tool 20 years ago, but with mine I had a block of steel at the end that I hammered out away from the car not downwards. The tool your using is great but I would weld a block of steel at the point were you where hammering and use that block to hammer out in the direction away from the car, and for your safety lower the car all the down to the ground.
I see what you are saying. The tool works fantastic as is but could be improved like anything. It is a very barbaric way to remove stuck wheel bearings but works in most capacities when there are no other better options to remove a "bolt in" style bearing. There are several models of vehicles that still will not be powerful enough to be effective, nor would any modifications to it. So it has its usefulness. It is extremely useful in the salt belt. But it does have limitations like any tool. You should make a video of your 20 year old tool. I think it could do fantastic! 😃🔧
I'll probably end up buying one of these as I have a 315K Outback that dcided it needed wheel bearings this year. I don't have a slide hammer either (can rent one from the parts store though). I'm wondering if backing off the four nuts of the hub bearing by an eighth of an inch, then driving it off a curb or over a speed bump or dip in my neighborhood, might pop them free as a total "shade tree mechanic" first attempt... Great videos on this. Really a breeze if you have the right tools (and I'm always a sucker for good reasons to buy more!).
Hey Keith! That’s a good idea. I think it could work. I prefer the tool myself, but if you have time to try that, please report back. Could be a great way to break them free. 😀
Can the force of the sledgehammer cause damage to any suspension parts or the cv axles / rear differntial?
It could, but I haven't seen it yet. A pot hole at normal speeds probably applies more force to the suspension and knuckle by comparison.
I have this repair to the rear of a 2018 crosstrek wish me luck in the rust belt
🤞😃
1:40 I love changing Subaru bearings. Of course, here in New Orleans, they look like new no matter how old they get.
Oh my! You are sooooo lucky. I might need to move to Louisiana! 😀
@@EasyFixShaun I watch you and South Main Auto, see all that rust and go, "NOPE!"
The salt belt has to be the rustiest place on earth. We do have really nice boats in Michigan that age well because of the fresh water. Best boats. Worst cars. 🙃
@@EasyFixShaun Maine has a fixation with salt as well. Boats, and cars dont last very long without plenty of tlc. I have not needed a tool like that yet, usually i get out the red wrench and my air hammer and kano-kroil
I feel ya man! Rust is relentless! I hate it. Maine is really rusty I bet. Plus your boats are in salt water. Double whammy!
That is what you get for living in the rust belt state, here in cali we are good all the time.
😂 good point 😉
What size are the bolts that you are using to attach this tool?
After watching your videos, I decided to go ahead and buy this tool.
Awesome! I use grade 8, 1/2" X 2.5" long. That generally works on everything. I do usually bend them each time I use the tool on stubborn bearings though. Sometimes I can reuse them. So I keep some extras on hand 😃🔧
I wish I had watched this three days ago before I did my second subie rear hub using the hubshocker and I was about to throw the tool in the scrap heap. Both times I it just ripped the bearing apart, leaving me with just the back side of the hub and I was back to pounding and air chiseling for two hours, just like before I bought the tool. Leaving the axle nut on to hold the hub assembly together is brilliant. Almost looking forward to the next bearing failure--just kidding. I would absolutely remove the ABS sensor first if I left the axle nut on, though. Probably not a bad idea to remove it in any case, just to be safe.
I wish you had watched it sooner also! I also get a little excited to use the tool. Its a game changer for me. Thanks a lot 😃🔧🔧
Great to see advice from a rusty Mi mechanic!
Thank you! Michigan rust is insane! Best boats, worst cars 😂🔧
And great plastic interiors on older vehicles.
True! Much less sun damage to components 😀🔧
Just ordered one of these tools just waiting for it to show up. Rear bearing on my wife's town and country. Being here in Michigan myself as well I've come to absolutely loath anything related to suspension repairs with the salt this state is obsessed with using
💯! We have the largest salt mine in the world. That doesn't mean we need to use it. Legacy auto in Michigan donated salt to county and city road commissions that had trouble purchasing it during the housing crash. So kind of them 😂. Good luck with your tool, I love mine. It has been a life saver in a lot of situations. Can't live with out it 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun thanks. Got it yesterday and it worked great. Six or seven swings with an 8lb sledge and it popped right out. Apparently this tool has existed in some form for close to fifteen years and I'm just now hearing about it. New there was a salt mine under Detroit but didn't think it was still in use
@@frederickflores8152 That salt mine is a gigantic deposit. Ya the tool is much more available now from amazon. I tried to make one from metal but I didn't have enough heavy plate laying around. I have seen other forms made from rotors that have served people well. But as much as I beat on it I am happy with the amazon version. It will last forever 😃🔧
Yup. Hubshocker tool is incredible. There's countless videos on CZcams of guys killing themselves, spending hours or days, trying to remove frozen bearings. I was one of them because my notorious Subaru bearings froze and I killed myself trying to get them off. I found the hubreaker tool and 3 hits and the bearing came right out. It's a great tool.
If you're in a bind or can't spend the money on a hub buster and can weld, you can make one for a particular application by using an old "wheel rotor" and welding a 2 foot bar to it. I've seen guys do that and it works just as good.
Awsome man! I agree!! I was going to initially make one also. But I didn’t have the right material I needed to do it. Instead of purchasing material I purchased the tool. Thing is a beast. I’ve done them the hard way, I think that’s why I like it so much. It’s brutally hard any other way on a lot of vehicles. Life saver😀
Thank you for your video....great tool.....forever Rock & Roll.
Rock on! Glad to you liked it 😃🔧
Worked like a champ on rear driver hub on a 2015 Forester (Western PA rust belt). You will need 2" bolts (grade 8 1/2 inch worked for me and didn't bend). 2.5 inch is too long and interferes with parking brake mechanism. Otherwise, maybe a good hard five hits and off it came. Thanks for the video!
Excellent! My experience has been exactly like yours. These are a lifesaver and timesaver 😃🔧
Smart move to leave the nut on because if the bearing would split in half it would really make things harder. After wathching this I'm happy that I never worked on a Subaru like that but if I will in the future I now know what it takes.
Thanks a lot for checking it out! Really appreciate you. Ya, these Subbie's are super difficult. I used to separate them with a slide hammer and then use an air hammer to walk them around in the knuckle until I could free them. It's was quite difficult but it worked. Now the shocker pops em out easy for me. I have used it on quite a few other vehicles. Have a great new year! 😃🛠
I used the hubshocker on a front 2013 subaru hub and the hub ended up separating in 2. Decided to just replace the knuckle also. Have you had hubs separate using this tool?
Yes if that happens again put the nut back on like in the video to stop the separation and pull it out in one piece. Does that help?
@EasyFix. Thank you - I will make sure and do that when I do the rear hubs. I also got a set of grade 8 bolts for the attachment. I had been hitting the hub shocker with a smaller short handled sledge but will give my new 10lb long handle sledge a workout on the next go around. Love your videos! Thanks again!
Thats what i do too. I always try my 48oz antivibe hammer first. Works for me about 50% of the time. If not, I use my 8lb sledge and a 6x6 chunk of wood under the knuckle to transfer more energy to the rust bond between bearing and knuckle.
Great video, thanks.
The tool won't help when it's CV axil that is stuck to the bearing hub
Great point! If that happens I will notice it before I mount the Shocker by pushing on the axle. If it doesn't move freely from corrosion, I use lubricant and an impact hammer punch to vibrate and push on the axle end until it loosens up. The cv-axle will start to jump around and slide inside the splines once it loosens. I then continue to use the Shocker and the axle will usually slide right out 😃🔧
Will this method not bend the shaft axle? Maybe safer to remove firstthe axle shhaft before making a hammer blow.Suspension absorbs some force instead of going all to the hub,wood support under the hub holder is better on this method.
The shaft will not bend. It can articulate no problem at the Constant velocity joint at the knuckle. A block of wood is a great method for transmitting extra energy to the knuckle. I have experienced some extremely stuck wheel bearings where that helped break the rust bond between the knuckle and the bearing. Good tip 😀🔧
I have one of these, I’ve used it three times on three different vehicles. It was worth the $100 I paid.
Awesome! I am glad its working for you. I can not live with out mine, it is awesome 😃🔧🔧
When I removed the hub on my Outback I used a slide hammer I made years ago for removing axles. The hub came out and left the bearing in the casing. If I had left the axle nut on like you show in the video maybe the bearing would have come out, but I am leary of damaging the CV axle and/or its nut and threads. What do you think?
The same bearing needs replacement again but I plan to use a tool similar to yours in the video but custom designed and built in my free time this week.
I leave the nut on frequently as a failsafe because some of these bearing replacements are so bad (especially subbies). As long as the sensor is removed where applicable, the only damage is the dust shield on the shaft will get bent. I have bent them all back with success, just superficial damage. I dislodge the bearing so it moves out maybe an inch or so. Then I remove the cv axle nut at that point so it doesn't separate at either joint 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Thanks for your quick reply and also for your fast and to-the-point video presentation. Usually I speed up CZcams videos but yours I had to slow down a bit in sections.
I have never had the CV shaft out so I was also concerned about the end in the differential. I do not know if it has a "keeper" in the differntial and how much it could slide without harm or disengagement. Can you address the concerns? Do you think the axle nut should be loosened prior to bearing removal and then simply snugged up (to avoid bearing separation, as your purpose explained). Given your explanation, with the axle nut still installed, I wonder if my slide hammer would have still worked out the bearing from the housing. My slide hammer has a very hefty chunk of round stock for mass impact.
@@EasyFixShaun I finished the 2nd hub/bearing assembly today. It came out with ease since it was new only 1-1/2 years ago since it was new and I had a thin film of anti-seize on all mating surfaces. The cheaper 1 year warranty assembly from the parts store failed so this time I bought the SKF assembly with a 5 year warranty from a different store.
The Astro Tools 78834 "Last Chance" looks like it would work if it is used in the "cocked" angle fashion for a rusted assembly. Trying to use it "evenly" will likely pull the hub out and leave the bearing inside and that is likely why the Hub Shocker works so well, because of the "cocked" angle shock.
I made a tool similar to the Shocker but with a plate and two opposing long arms to pound on. The arms are welded to the plate with 5 slots to fit all 5 hole only patterns and the arms are welded with gussets to prevent weld breakage. After that I welded an angle iron between the two arms at the outer end and realized that the gussets were likely not necessary anymore. Now I have an over-engineered tool. (I saw a few photos where the arms welding had broken loose, and that inspired my planning.)
I really appreciate how you did your video with such speed and to the points. You really inspired me, just in the nick of time!
@@ddb1143 Glad to help out! Nice work 😃🔧🚘
the special effects are very funny. love it
Glad you like them! 😃😃🔧
Insignia to tandetna wydmuszka. Ale opel nie próżnował i przygotował swoim fanbojom jeszcze lepsze wymysły w kolejnych generacjach.
Świetna wskazówka!
I replaced my 2009 Forester's original rear left hub yesterday. The Hub Shocker and this video did it. This video lives up to the facts, no staging. My Forester has spent 11 years in NJ and Maryland in a winter salt environment. I replaced a bearing on my 08 Outback the hard way 4 years ago. The hub buster and the method in the 2.0 Video works! Im a shade tree mechanic with a very good tool collection and ability, but it took me about 15 swings with an 8pound sledge to realize it was OK to really get down to business and beat the heck out of it. I swung harder, I didn't keep track of swings, but I'd say less than 40 swings and I saw the first sign of a black between the backer plate and the knuckle, so I knew I was home free and just a few more whacks. My backer plate was rusted so I changed the plate, brake shoes, hardware, rotors and pads on both side. After the bearing was off the knuckle the the next part was cleaning up with a wire brush and putting the parking brake puzzle back together. Any tips for removing the parking brake cable from the brake lever? I just worked it with a pair of kneedle nose while my wife held the shoe with the lever and slipped the lever back on the cable, unless there a special tool I don't know of , this part of the parking brake job is good with four hands, she also held the shoes while I put the springs in place. If I could post photos in the comments I would add some, or message me off line and I'll share. thanks Shaun, keep the videos coming!
Thanks a lot for the follow up! I am happy it worked for you. In Michigan all of our parking brake stuff is rusted bad also. They are major pain. I don't have any tips other than side cutters and sheer determination to get it done. I usually use side cutters to pull the spring back and hold the cable while detaching or reattaching it. The side cutters just make it easy because the spring has to much force for pryers to be able to hold it easily. I don't use the cutters to cut, just to hold the cable, it doesn't cut any strands of wires, it just grips them. Hope that helps. Did you through bolt with 1/2" grade 5's? Did you use the cv-axle nut trick?
@@EasyFixShaun I used the lugs on the hub. I used two old fully threaded lug nuts I had in my spare bin, and 1/2 inch grade 8 washers, zapped on with an impact. I had half inch Grade 8 bolts as a back up. When I first removed the axle nut, the axle wasn't free in the spindle, so I hammered with a brass drift and it came free with a few hits, brass drifts are handy when hitting a steal part you don't want deform. Then I put the axle nut back on with one tap with the impact gun, and started swinging. When I saw the hub was moving I took the axle nut off and kept swinging. I also ordered from McMasterCarr as a back up M12x1.50- 70 mm (2.75 inch) long grade 5 bolts in case the hub bearing came apart with the housing left on the knuckle. I measured the height of the hub housing, 70mm seemed to be enough to clear the housing, I could use the 70mm bolts to thread into the hub housing from the parking brake side and install the Hub Shocker and keep hammering ( if this makes sense, sometimes I can overthink a job) . Neither back up was necessary, it came right off, and probably would have come off quicker if I had a better feel of how heavy to swing. To finally tighten the axle nut, I used an old broom stick hand to depress the brakes (no helpers were home at the time!).
Nice job man. You crushed it! You had a plan and a backup plan. And a back up plan for the back up plan. A lot of people don’t prepare and do these the hard way. The are doable any way you can get them out. I like the easy way! Great feedback. I’m super happy it worked for you 😃
Do we have to worry about damage to the CV axle or bushings and/or the hub assembly coming apart leaving the ultra difficult piece stuck in the knuckle after all?
The cv axle trick in the video solves that problem by keeping the entire bearing assembly in one piece. it will hold it all together so the tool can perform its function. There is 1-2 inches of of inner and outer movement room for the cv axle. So once the bearing pops out of the hole remove the cv axle nut and axle stub shaft. The cv axle serves as the fail safe to hold the bearing together while in normal use and also works great for rusted and stuck wheel bearings while using the tool. Ive done this a lot. Sometimes a dust shield on the cv axle is damaged and bent a little bit. I just bent them back a little and they are good. There is always risk of something happening. For a stuck wheel bearing it can be a better alternative than the bearing half remaining in the knuckle.
@@EasyFixShaun Once the bearing half has come apart and remains in the knuckle, will this tool work? I got it all back together by tightening the axle nut back on. I was going to drive it over to Subaru and pay them $650 but would love to finish what I started if this tool will do the trick.
I need this tool so Im checking reviews. Your video is great, but Im more impressed that you checked the load balance on the car before you raised it too high. Non of the other videos or shops Ive watched have done this. I guess its why there are so many lift fail videos on here.
Safety is always good practice. Thanks man! I hope the tool helps you out. It has been a life saver and time saver for me. 😀
If you need to replace bearings, this tool is well worth the money. It worked quickly and easily for me on my Subaru. I wasted a full day plus trying and renting every other tool from Orielly Auto Parts to no avail. Broke down and bought this. 5 minutes and 3 hits and the bearing was on the floor. I've since given it to buddies who were having similar issues with their Dodge trucks and removing bearings. Same thing. A few hard whacks and the bearings are on the floor.
Was car in neutral with parking brake off?
does it make the spindle hole oblong?
Good question. I have never seen that happen. The problem is the rust bond. The tool is an attempts to break the rust bond that is holding the knuckle and wheel bearing together, once that happens you are on your way. The knuckles are super strong and might even be the strongest component of the steering and suspension, unless I am forgetting something.....?
Have you ever tried a hub shocker with a pressed in wheel bearing? Of course it would come apart in two pieces but I don't see a reason it wouldn't work to get the hub off....
I haven’t tried that. The hub shockers are for bolt-in style wheel bearings only. A slide hammer would be the best solution to separate a press in bearing. Then you can access the bearing for service. Here is a press-in wheel bearing replacement video if you need one! 😃czcams.com/video/CInFJDz11II/video.html
Wish it was that easy.i didn't have any luck.turning it into a lamp.or boat ⚓.
Sorry it didn't help. What model do you have?
Going to have to try it on my 08 accent with 253k miles...
I've asked nicely so i guess now it's time to make it come off.
Looks like you have press in style front bearings and bolt in style rear bearings. Tool should work great on the rears. Here is the front bearing video if you need it 😃🔧czcams.com/video/P5bwlKKpusk/video.html
So I jacked all four tires off the ground and my front tires don’t spin like yours does. The back does so is that a stuck wheel bearing?
You could have some brakes holding you up from spinning. Sometimes i will compress the brake pistons a bit 😀🔧
Once the tool is mounted could you you lower the vehicle onto a block where you hammer it to use the weight of the vehicle to pop it out or is the hammer shocking it that does the trick? Maybe the weight wouldn’t work with the rust jacking.
I think that could work. I could try it. Putting a block under the suspension would deliver more energy to the bearing and the rust bond to pop it out slightly easier. There is a little suspension bounce that if removed would help. I do em in the air though and it works great. 😃🔧
I just use a huge pipe wrench never fails.
Ouch!
thanks so much for making the video
No problem! Glad to help 😃🔧
Subaru and in a solid second place 2014 and up Ford Explorer, steel hub into aluminum.
Oh man. I agree!
I second this. On my 2014, I had to remove the whole rear knuckle and take it to Pepboys for them to press out the hub ($60). I now have another hub going bad (my car only has 65K miles but I live in PA) and I am trying to determine if I should spend the money and buy one of these for the rare occurrence of hub failures. I hate one off rare tools...
@@94cobragermany Chad I would buy the tool. It will make your whole life a whole lot easier if you are a diy kinda person. It's like a hammer. Good to always have it in the tool box and on standby. Especially if you live in the salt belt or other rusty areas. It works on other vehicles too. You can lend it out. No parts stores carry them yet. So you want to have it ready ahead of time. 😃🔧🔧
@@94cobragermany Plus you won't need an alignment afterwards. 😃
@@94cobragermany So True trying to get one home made to save the 200$ , if you we’re doing on a constant basis good tools are essential. I am getting to old for that kind of frustration.
looks it is working great.
But would every other parts be okay while you are hammering like that hard ? such as breaking the Knuckle or CV axle or any other connected suspension stuffs?
The weak link is the bond between the knuckle and the wheel bearing. Anything is possible. But it hasn't caused any issues for me other than breaking the rust bond at the wheel bearing and freeing it from the knuckle. I have the some of the most corroded vehicles on the planet. Putting a block of wood below the knuckle is a great way to transfer more force directly to the wheel bearing. Less bounce from the suspension. I have had to do that a great times. The alternative is knuckle removal and pressing it out. If you do that make sure to get an alignment immediately afterwards 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun thank you so much!
Eh sure it works great but I already made the same thing with a hooked edge so I don’t have to remove studs for like 10$ worth of scrap metal, feel free to use my idea as an implementation on ur idea, slight over hang on the top followed by a lil lip on the back, slide on tap it take it off
Nice! 😃🔧
You put the axle nut back on, and that keeps the bearing from separating and leaving half of it behind??
Last week I spent hours grinding off the hardened steel backside of the wheel bearing.. fun times.
Yup! I learned the hard way also. Stuck bearings suckkkk 😀😀🔧🔧
wow great tool!
I think so too 😃
At 6:43 you discuss what position that the tool should be on before you hit it. It seems to me, that if you have it at 12 o'clock....the top, that you are putting force on the hub to pull it out.....the leverage is right. When it's at the bottom, you're trying to break the top free and that seems like it is not putting the force directly on the top as it is when you have the tool at the top. Both ways you are freeing the top of the bearing first. It's hard to explain but seems to make sense to me.
Good thought. I think you are on to something there. It does change the direction of force slightly through the bearing to pop it out. Seems to work equally well whichever side is used from me experience 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun I was thinking about this more after commenting, and so with the bar at the bottom, the bar is hanging by the top and the force is going into the hub, BUT also into the casting of the axle. I just wonder if it might be possible to crack off a piece of the axle housing? The other way the force is all going into the hub with the pivot down farthest away from the force. Seems like more force onto the hub and less onto the axle.
@@writerjmd I think hitting a pot hole at 25-55mph could and would provide 10X the force at knuckle VS a sledge on a hub shocker. Knuckles don't break often. Usually accidents is where broken knuckles are seen most. Anything is possible. I haven't seen a knuckle break in a shop ever for any reason. I am sure it has happened somewhere but I doubt its from a Hub shocker. The rust bond between the wheel bearing and knuckle is the weak ling and will break, or the hub will separate. Trick in the video for that...
Some cars are made cheaper than others. But for the most part engineers thankfully have not cheapened up knuckles yet. They seem to have no problem making cheap metallurgy in wheel bearings though. That is where the real issues are. Some are very very dangerous quality. My 2 cents 😃🔧
Great tool.
Life saver for salt belt states 😀🔧
That is fantastic, thanks for sharing..
Thanks a lot! Love helping out 🔧😃
i bet if you use this tool with the astro "Last Chance" hub remover to keep pressure on the bearing while you hit the big tool, the bearing pops off in way less hits.....either way, it's going to take a ton of pressure and usually the backing plate is rotted away after you get the bearing out...great video
Thanks! Thats a great idea. I haven't heard of the last chance hub remover 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Astro makes it for 30 bucks on Amazon...Eric on South Main Auto uses it a lot on his channel and that's where I got the idea from
Thats excellent! Thanks man. Looks like a great addition to the tools box. Ordered 😀🔧
SMA rocks and is a channel I aspire to be like someday. Love it. Thanks a lot. Really appreciate you!
So I bought this as I have a subaru legacy that tried to reppace 1 by all the other usual methods and all failed had to put it all back together and have a shop do it so after that bought this. Also have a 4WD suburban that uses hubs on the front. After watching your video I found what seems to be the best option for strength and hold: someone else suggested bolt thru and nut as you did but using a grade 8, 1/2"-13x2 1/2" flange bolts with 1/2"-13 flange nuts worked REALLY well. No bend or break. Metric would be a grade 10.9 (or 12.9) 12-1.5x60mm. Thread pitch can vary of course some probably use a 1.25 pitch but finding a 2.5" in metric is difficult as it's 63mm. They DO offer a 65mm but that might be slightly too long so a 60mm would work. Felt ut may help you and anyone else looking to get this but truly the best way IS to tap out a couple nut studs and thru bolt it direct, leave the axle nut snugged (break it loose first then tighten it back up slightly) and that does give you the best hold. Beyond that rather than a grease inside the knuckle I HIGHLY recommend using anti seize whether aluminum or preferably copper. The spray is a bit pricey but well worth it otherwise getting the bottle with the brush works just fine. This will help lubricate installation while also protecting it from rusting and seizing up later on. I use it on my brake pad channels and backs of the pads as well as where the rotor meets the hub. It will save a ton of time breaking things apart and limits rust build up so less time cleaning up.
💯on the shocker stuff. Thanks for that i think that will help others out 😀😀🔧
@Easy Fix you asked for an update here it is: did the suburban front hubs, found using the thru bolt from the back with the 2.5" length was best, another bit that helps is to use a jack under the lower arm just enough to hold it steady to eliminate bounce. FIRST SWING on both hubs! Took me longer to set up than to get em out and they were SEVERELY rust welded too. Now my brother has a 2012 Mazda cx-9 that uses hubs on the rear and he wants me to change out a bad 1 on that. Just using it to do the suburban hubs has already paid for itself!!
Sorry late! I am glad it working out! Thanks for the update.
Nice tool. But I see you’re reusing the cv axle nut. Looks dinged too. Shouldn’t that be replaced? What’s your thoughts?
The nut can be reused in some vehicles and not in others. Always replace it if you are unsure. Some wheel bearings come with a new one in the box. On this Subaru the nut is reusable as long and the detented area is intact and can be be re-staked. The dented area is the previously staked area. It is the failsafe to slow the nut down if it were to try to back off. Sometimes when torquing the nut it ends in a different spot with new material to be staked and that will work also.
The Subaru one is $5.25 from the dealer, I just replace it.
Links below for nuts on amazon 👇
@@EasyFixShaun links for “nuts” 😅
Seriously. I put links 👇 😂
Gonna have to pick me one of these up. I’m down by chicago and boy they love the salt down here. I grew up in Michigan so I know your pain. Lol
Awesome! Thanks man. I think the worlds largest salt mine is in Michigan and they sell that stuff to everywhere. The rust belt probably has the worst cars and the best boats. Salt for cars. Fresh water for boats. 👨🏼🔧
Where did you aquire that wheel bearing removal tool? I have a ebay slide hammer kit, a fwd wheel bearing removal/installer tool(its basically a 40 some piece disc & cup set with a forcing screw) 20 ton press & of course many different hand tools. I see that your power tool selection is better then mine!!!! Where did you purchase that tool?
Amazon. I put links in the description for it with some others that are similar. Here is the link 😃🔧🔧ATD-8629 Hub shocker: amzn.to/2Q2b0jO
amazing video man
Thank you! Glad you liked it 😃😃🔧
That type of hub/bearing seems like a nightmare. SO much surface area to weld together. I saw on one video that the mechanic was dealing with an aluminum knuckle. Holy dissimilar metal corrosion, Batman! Anti-seize anybody?
Yes! When the bearing fits really tightly it makes them even worse. Thats the main problem with subaru. They are machined precisely. The bearing and knuckle fit is tight. That can cause some issues down the road when corrosion sets in. Some bearings and knuckles are a little more liberal on tolerances and a hammer to knock them out is all that is usually needed. Pros and cons. 😀🔧
Have you done a front wheel bearing on a Prius yet. I usually take spindle off use my brass punch a big one .drive hub out of bearing remove bearings .weld a bead on outer bearing were balls sit front and back ..and they practically fall out actually use air hammer to push them out of spindle
Oh wow. If you used this on a bolt-in style Prius bearing....I bet the tool would pop it out perfectly. I have not tried one yet on Prius though, so I can't speak to that one yet. I would try it all day long though when I get the chance.😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun I live in Vermont and the steel bearing and aluminum spindle curode really bad ..my press with 12 ton jack couldn't do a few ..so a friend said turn welder up on boil and lay a bead on bearing where balls ride ..it works really good . And the rim pipe thing has a flange welded about a foot up so it is higher and you can flip it over to make shorter
I believe it tells you to support spindle before hitting .better for strut ..
@@EasyFixShaun thanks for listening to me..and good idea using bolt to hold tool.. looking forward to more videos
@@jaymartin5434 No problem man. Thanks for the ideas really appreciate. Yes if the suspension was supported while using the tool it is more effective. The energy will transfer more efficiently to the bearing. I haven't done that yet and have not had any issues. But I have used the support method many times working with ball joints and some other repairs where things were bouncing and needed support. Once supported everything will always work better. 😀🔧
Hey mate, I tried to replace my wheelbearing today and I got stuck not being able to get the CV axle out of the hub, do you have any tips on what I could try?? I ended up giving up and putting it back together lol
I usually use a punch that fits in the small hole on the end of the shaft. That way you don’t damage the threads. I usually use an air hammer or a regular hammer. 😀🔧🔧
This tool works amazing and you can also use the hitch from the back of your truck instead of this tool. The reason I'm making a comment is because you are using the tool incorrectly. Think of this as the claw of a hammer pulling out a nail, when you have it down its is shoving it in from the bottom and pulling at the same time. From the top it pulls out best like a dream as from your first part of this video.
Awesome thanks for the tip!! How would you use the hitch? Could it be bolted on somehow? That would be pretty cool and could save some money and time. Especially for someone that is mid-project and needs a tool now...
yeah you would need to take the ball off and in its place, you lug nut the tongue of it just like your tool bolted on, and smack the receiving end from the top down. @@EasyFixShaun
I have used slide hammers, air hammers, torches.. you name it, and nothing beats what you already have on your truck. or this tool if you don't have a hitch. :)
That’s a great idea! I need to try that. Sounds like it would work work😀
I agree! I try hard to avoid heat. It works well. It it can easily destroy everything around the bearing also.
Your video's are very good. I have a 1998 Subaru Forester with mandatory replace wheelbearings every other year problem. Live in GB WI so close to Michigan weather and rust. With the exception of the expensive wheel bearing and a few other WTH things the Forester is great and I would like to keep but running out of OEM parts. You know of a good Forester tech in my area I would be very interested.
Again, please keep up the video's they are exceptional. Also are you saying the Detroit Axle - Front Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement for Subaru will work on my Forester?
Regards
Thanks a lot. I appreciate! I don't know anyone in your area. Best bearings would be Timken or Subaru. Detroit axle is ok. It is no timken 😃🔧🔧
i like the "EFFECTS" you added. Pretty neat stuff!!
Glad you like it! It makes me laugh also to put them in the videos. Love it! 😃🔧
Hi , just take out the Spindle with the wheel bearing and use A Hydraulic Press ,such as 10k Tones to separate the Wheel Bearing instead of using damaging Forces by hitting the Wheel Bearing ..
Great tip!
Most people don’t have a press at home. We all have big hammers
Defeats a "bolt in bearings usefulness also" 😃
Yup, it also changes the alignment when removing a knuckle which means an alignment must be done.
Any chance you can re-link the nut/bolt set that you used or ones that would work?
Do you mean the 1/2" grade eight bolts? You should be able to get them at a local hardware store. Still want links?
@@EasyFixShaun Thanks for the reply! Super cool. I actually placed an order on Amazon for grade 10.9, m12x50mm bolts and m12 lock nuts. I'm not sure if they will work yet, but thanks again!
Excellent! No problem. Might be a little small in size unless thats what you already have in your tool kit. But it could be enough to work also. Did it work for you?
a BIG pipe wrench(?)
Yes! Great tip. If you can attach it somehow that would work great! It might need to be about 10 feet long 😀
I agree about collateral damage. I own a Sube. Not liking they went to steel and aluminum bearing interface.Sucks. We retired and got a new 19. Last one was an 09. It gets old I’ll be doing half shafts etc. damn Not happy
I totally agree. They make such good stuff. but they can mess it up with just a few bad components. The bearing replacements can be brutal.
When the car is new, removing the bearing is easy. You could pop em off, coat the mating surfaces with anti-sieze, and 100K later you'll be so glad you did!! OTOH, Subaru could do it at the factory.
True. Antisieze helps make them pop out much easier 😀🔧
u nailed it m2j
Thanks a lot Matt! 😃🔧
Do you place a jack stand under the knuckle to support it?
I like to be less intrusive and gradually work my way up in force applied. I usually try to dislodge the wheel bearing without the jack stand support first. If that fails, I usually then try a jack stand to transfer more energy to the rust bond between the parts 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Is there a general time frame it takes before most come out. I assume I'll need to tighten the cv axle nut back on before I start using the tool?
Usually it takes me 1-12 hits of a hammer. The cv axle tricks isn't necessary to hold a bearing together if it stays together on its own. If it starts to get loose its a nice trick to pull it back together so it can still be removed as a unit, the way it was designed to be removed. I usually assess as i go. If the cv trick is used make sure you remove the abs sensor so it isn't broken if you have one. In my experience if the bearing separates, the remaining piece is even harder to remove because there is nothing much remaining to push or pull on. They are nightmares. I will do everything i can to remove in one piece. Rust jacking is a serious problem. There are a lots of models right now that are having lower bearing life and harder replacements.
@@EasyFixShaun So do you leave the axle nut off when you start? Or do you leave the axle nut on? Someone told me when they hit the bearing with a hammer they only try to hit on opposite sides of the bearing to, "work the bearing off side to side". Do I do the same with the tool? Sorry for so many questions trying to avoid the bearing separation you were talking about above.
I don't work side to side. The tool only really works to break the bearing rust bond free from the top. That is because you need to strike it in a typical hammer motion. It won't work side to side with the tool. I use the tool and strike in a downward motion and the tool breaks the rust bond between bearing and knuckle to free it. I leave the nut off to start with. I monitor the bearing for looseness/separation after I strike the tool. If it starts to get loose and separate, I put the nut back on and tighten it up to hold the bearing together. That is how I get it out in one piece. I have another video showing how to remove in 2 piece and it suckkkkkkkkks. One piece is much much 1000x better for me. Using the axle nut to hold a bearing together during removal is an advanced concept I came up with for crazy difficult bearings and with use of this tool. I also use a 8lb sledgehammer now 😃🔧
Thanks 🙏
No problem
Waooo 200 k on tha subaru , did you have to change the head gasket ?
Congrats! Huge milestone. We did replace our head gaskets and have the heads milled flat. I think we have 260k now and she's running great 😃🔧
Imagine Hubshocker 3.0 thats a foot longer. Way more force /leverage
I would buy one! The current one works perfect. But if a new one was made I would HAVE to try it 😀
Hey! All great points! Did you see the second hub shocker video I made. I have you a shout out for the tip on through bolting the tool. That gm is how I do it every single time now. The tool combined with through bolting and using the cv axle and nut to hold the bearing unit together....has made Subaru rear bearing replacements easy. Any other way....all I can say is that it will be one of the hardest repair experiences anyone will have. I love the tool you made. Sounds awsome!
Ya it’s great to hear from you. That’s awsome man. I want to make one someday. I like the simplicity of it. As soon as I find a need or if I break my tool I want to give it a shot.
Try doing a rear wheel bearing on a new body style Ford explorer. Steel hub aluminum knuckle. I'm from Minnesota so I know what you'll be up against.
Ok, I will try that! I think will work great. My first try will be just like in the video. Through bolts/held together with the cv nut/sledge hammer. I bet it pops out like butter 🔧🔧
@@EasyFixShaun hi it's me again. Little update on the rear bearing job on a 2014 explorer. Did another one today. We used the tool that you have. Three guys of three different builds. Pounded on it with a 10lbs sledge and could not get it out. Wound up putting the knuckle in the press to get it out. It fought the hole way out tho. We believe there is to much material in the knuckle bore and it won't allow the bearing to tip when you hit it. If you can get one out with this tool. You will be a real life Thor. 🔨🔨🔨🔨
@@wilwiener Dang! Do you think they build the ford knuckle so close in tolerance the the bearing that causes the problem? The subarus are barely big enough for the hub bearing unit. When new and not rusted they slip together like you would want them to. But as soon as rust gets in between the parts, it is rust jacked baddddd. Man I wish the tool worked for you. I'm sorry man. That sounds horrendous..
@@wilwiener Thank you for getting back to me. I was really trying to find one asap to try the tool on. You saved me a ton of work. I think I feel very cautious about recommending these on the ford explorers for the time being. Pressing is best until a better method can be discovered. By the way you describe it.....I don't know man. I think pressing is the only way. Thanks a lot. Have a great weekend!
@@EasyFixShaun the tolerances are very tight. The opening in the steering knuckle has a very deep bore in it. There's probably an inch to an inch and a half of area that the tolerance is so tight once the two different types of metal make their molecular Bond. Apparently the aftermarket is now selling hub and knuckle assemblies where the bearing is pre-installed in the knuckle.
I like your videos 🤠
Thanks Gasper! 😀
Hey you have been a subscriber for quite a while right??
Yes, I have 👍
Thank you. I really appreciate that. Means a lot 😊
👍
I live in Michigan too and just had this issue.. got hit for 440$ to remove the knuckle, they broke the abs bolts I think, so I ended up paying the machine shop they use to press out the bearing from the hub..I wasn't happy as I could have removed the whole knuckle and broke the abs myself only to pay to replace the sensor as well... I'm wondering if they just found it easier to break the sensor and charge me to press it out rather than dick with it manually.
These are a nightmare if you don't have 7 methods of removal ready to tackle them when issues pop up. With the shocker they are fairly easy for me. Some are stubborn and twitter more time getting mounting correct. I've broken mounting bolts. But the shocker is the best for the salt belt 😀🔧
Made one just like it. Every time I have used it, the hub pops off and leaves the bearing. Had to use chisel then sand the damaged knuckle. Maybe it's just life in NE Ohio.
Try the "CV-AXLE TRICK" in the video. It will hold the bearing together in one piece while you beat on the tool to break the rust bond holding it in the knuckle 😀🔧
I just wish it was made for 4 lug bolt style bearings.
You could always debur the holes a bit until it fits your 4 lug bolt pattern. You could also try attaching it to one lug only. That may be enough force for you. That is what I would do. I haven't had a four bolt wheel bearing yet to try it on. I am sure it would work 😃🔧
another item in my toolbox that the boss will always want to borrow...
When I started, all the other mechanics made fun of my tools. craftsman spline wrenches and sockets, and a whole lot of homemade tools, even my toolbox is homemade. they were and are sporting the Mac or Snap-on toolboxes with all the bells and whistles, blowing $200,000 on tools just to do the same job I get done with less than $200 of purchased tools, and about $800 worth of homemade. Think I'll weld me one of these up this week. Sure I have the scrap around to do it.
I have a lot of craftsman tools. They work great. I have all kinds of tools. I have always tried to purchased what works best. Some stuff I need name brand and some stuff I don't. I think you should make one. They are a simple tool really, which is what makes them so cool. I love your comment, "another tool the boss will want to borrow". haha! 😃🔧
Great idea, I'm just going to put my LR3 back together, I'm too old and its too hot..... another day satan
Thanks! Good luck on your project 😃😇
You can do that with a bolt and a nut and spend under $5.
Great tip! 😃🔧
wow
an extremely effective way to shock thru the suspenssion,
replace hub bearing aling with the suspenssion parts 🙄🤦♂️
It isn't as bad as a pot hole. It is an aggressive method, but no damage has occurred so far 😃😃
so far 😅
Very true. I have with worked with a lot of metal. So i am very familiar. Plus i check to make sure nothing weird happened after pounding them out. I am also using south main auto's bolt method more and more. It doesn't work that great on the Subbies, but works great on everything else. It's a Simple effective perfect method 😃
Purchased one and it ripped the hub apart at the bearing now the backside is stuck in the knuckle so I have to remove that to get it pressed out….just take it to a shop and pay the professionals folks cause my car is stuck on jackstands and can’t get to the mechanic.
Sometimes you can salvage what happened and keep going with success. Try the cv axle nut trick in the video. If you can place the hub back on the bearing with enough cv axle threads sticking out- you pull it all back together. The nut will hold it all together until it is removed as a complete unit. That trick is super important to use if the hub starts getting loose 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun curious if this worked. about to try it tomorrow when I get my shocker.
....that can't possibly require a sledge hammer. It's theater , right ?. Scotty doesn't care much for Subaru for some other reasons. I have no experience of problems caused by salt in roads except I've left my angle grinder out in the weather and when I come to want to change disk I had to rig eighteen inches or two feet of leverage cos nothing would budge using the normal hand size tools . There was hardly any visible corrosion though, unbelievable .
Wow. Ya corrosion is the number one enemy in Michigan too. Your lucky you don’t have it too bad. It’s really destructive. 😀🔧🔧
Slide hammer...
Not usually the best tool for a severely stuck bearing for me. Could work though. I have tried it many times. Usually that method will separate the bearing into two halves. Then an air hammer needs to be used to try to spin the remaining portion still stuck in the knuckle to loosen it. It does work. Much more difficult compared to the Shocker for me. The cv-axle trick in the video would help keep it together using the slide hammer method though 😃🔧
Got this tool after spending a day and a half replacing front bearings on a 2014 rusted subaru forester (87k) hoping for a miracle. Well I beat on the thing up and down, side to side....and trust me at 200lbs I can put the hammer to it.... nothing budged. I had to go back to chisel at the top of bearing assembly. Finally I could get a crack and pb blaster in .... then the tool was helpfull to rock the bearing out. The stuff they put on roads, in combo to subaru's asinine bearings... never Subaru again. Powder coated nonsense. The bright side , I now own a $100 tool that I hope never to use again. Anyone want it for cheap?
I am sorry it didn't work for you. I have only ever needed to use the shocker tool for the rear of any Subaru here in Michigan. We have the worst rust in the world. On the front Subaru bearings you just strike the hub flange and the bearing will dislodge. I have a video on how to do the front hub units. The fronts are a cake walk from every aspect for me and no special tools are needed. The Shocker is really only needed on the rear of Subbie's. I have also used it on many other makes and it works great.
czcams.com/video/ydneeMsNMOA/video.html
No need to apologize, I appreciate your helpful videos, thank you. The tool did come in handy to get the assembly to rock out once I got a crack developed with chisel.... by the way I did it without any power tools... just hand sledge and chisel.... urgh.
Also I didn't use it on front, the front was horrible ..... which got me to buy the hub shocker for the rear. Honestly the chisel was the only thing to get a crack to open.
I’m glad you got your bearing out no matter what method you use. That is all that matters 😀
❤❤❤👌🏼
Thanks for watching 😀