2018 Harley Softail Fat Bob Stage 1 Part 3, Screamin Eagle Tune
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- čas přidán 15. 11. 2017
- Here's a brief overview on getting started with the Screamin Eagle Street Tuner software, and how to get it tailored to your bike. Use at your own risk, messing with your bikes ECM is always risky. I also recommend you go through the tutorial training slides offered on Harley's website. Ya'll are wading through this tuning process with me as I plug along.
- Jak na to + styl
I keenly follow your CZcams channel. They are great and gives me a good amount of information. Thanks for taking the effort and making it available especially for people like me sitting in remote areas of the globe. I also ride a 2018 Fat Bob FXFB which I am recalibrating since I installed the SE heavy breather and Street Cannon slipons.
Awesome tutorial. Such a huge help. Thanks for making this!
Thanks for the video. Helped me understand it a bit better. Though I did at the smart tune tuner to mine. Honestly if you are not worried about warranty as I was/am I would have went with another tuner because of price. Total cost was $700+ where as a better tuner would run in the $500+ range. But that is the way it goes. I am working on the video of installing the smart tuner but let me tell you drilling and tapping them bungs was a very bad experiance I took my head pipe to a muffler shop and for $20 they cut the old bungs out and welded in new bungs in the same spot. Best $20 I spent.
Excellent video, thanks. Some quirky software so the tips really help.
That's nifty. Never seen that done using the air flow sensor. So I take it that you're actually altering the bike's ECU map directly based on the software's recommendation. No need for wide band O2 sensors or threading aftermarket tuner cables to the fuel injectors. Blessed is simplicity!
Except if you are like me and travel to say the Mile high city. You may have to retune your bike for the altitude. Smart tuner should auto tune for the difference.
Great Video. Much help & Thanks ... I some how have a check engine light on before start up that won't go out until I start the bike. Weird, no errors found with all the usual searching for codes. Gonna have to have it checked or maybe you guys know something else. Thanks in advance
Great video. Thanks
How do I use the map that I last tuned since the opening page takes me to the vehicle configuration and starts with the base map once again. Also is there a need to press the button on the SEPST when it is blinking rapidly before switching off the engine prior to downloading the data. If you can help out with this information I will be grateful. Thanks
your screen looks different than mine. your record/review/program mc allows you the see the whole chart. mine only shows half and i then have to scroll down to see the higher RPM cells. how can i see the whole chart thanks
with the tuner flashing fast do we keep the bike running while we plug the tuner into the PC. or shut off the bike, plug the tuner into the PC then turn on the bike and follow the prompts. also when the window comes up with all the data recordings, do we reload all the previous data recording or just the data recording we are doing at the moment. thanks TD
So I just did all of this and my VE tables have more red then turquoise. What do I need to do
On the tuner while out data logging Do I have to press the button on the tuner box for any reason ??? Or just ride and come back and plug back in the comp?
So when are you going to push that button on the tunner? After each ride? Before ? What does that button actually do when pushed?
Thanks for this extremely helpful video. I have one question. I see you experienced an increase in fuel. I'm seeing a big decrease and I'm wondering if this is why I'm feeling less torque than before my Stage 1 upgrades? Thoughts? Thanks!
Something is not tuned right, I lost no fuel mileage or grunt.
Hello, whats the first step. Install new exhaust and air intake then immediately install the stage 1 tune from the SE pro tuner? Or do you go put a few miles on it first . I was told not to run the bike with the upgrades without having a tune as it can cause it run lean and or damage the engine. I was also told to re-tune if I change the baffles on V&H exhaust. How does the tune know you changed baffles? thanks.
So 1st of: Thank you for this video!
I'm having an issue with "unstable idle" and she sound like shes chugging in idle when shes warmed up.
Any suggestions?
and question: When you plug the bike back into the computer to calibrate, do you click all of the previous rides that you previously tuned?
Or just the most recent one?
Majority of my adjustments are in the red...From 1250 - 2500 RPM and from 3-15% its all red ... sigh.
CEL Code: P0505
Thanks man!
Just the most recent one. The idea being that you should be getting closer and closer each ride. Maybe reload the stock file, and start the tuning process over. If you still have issues send me a PM and I'll send you some troubleshooting guides.
AGA can I ask what instructions you use to install the IE11-Win7-disk001.vmdk file. Did you burn this to a disk first?
BTW, really like your videos I have the same bike in Black Denim
It stays on your hard drive and gets loaded into virtual box as a new machine. I think the instructions are on virtual boxes website
thanks for the videos . very helpful . I also have a 2018 fatbob and was wondering if you are hearing any Vibration sounds coming from your speedo.? I am . its loud
Reach down and touch the gas cap. Mine buzzes horribly. I'm waiting on parts availability for a warranty replacement.
Yep ! thats it ! thanks
the 2018 Heritage same the same fuel cap buzz
When data gathering multiple times which map is the bike running on? Is it the last programmed map? Also when I was gathering data the SEPST began blinking rapidly which means the buffer was full, but on pressing the button to switch off it still kept blinking until I had to switch off the bike after the ride. When I connected with my laptop it downloaded the data and programmed the bike with the new map. Is that OK? I will be grateful for any inputs.
It should be running on the latest map you loaded and the blinking sounds fine as long as it's not clearing the buffer before you can load it into the program.
Was that considered a single recording session or did you stop and start it while you where recording?
That was a single
Windows said Thou Shall Not Tune
Did you notice any improvement in the bike or elimination of the decal popping after you ran the smart tune?
I did, the decel pop was reduced but not eliminated. I'm going to rig up a tablet to the bars here shortly to try and use dyno tune while riding on the street to see if it makes a difference.
Why would you want to get rid of decel pop??? My bike sounds like a god damn machine gun and I love It!
Any particular reason you went with the screamin eagle & not something like the FP3.
I guess the first reason was price. I got a New open box tuner on ebay for $150. The other is that my thinking was: it's a Harley tuner, it only allows you to change small things, and hopefully will allow me to receive warranty work if this fairly new M8 motor has issues. When the bike is out of warranty I'll probably go with a TTS Mastertuner. Although TTS says that once you flash back the stock programming Harley would not be able to know it was ever tuned, I'm going to play it as safe as I can while still changing some things.
MR AW50ME I was told today that it keeps the bike in warranty. Other tuners void the factory warranty.
I come back from a 20 minutes data log roughly,and the buffer is full.. is that normal?
Sounds about right, I have a cheap windows netbook to dump the logs while riding. Toss it in a backpack and download while on the road, then log again.
i was getting alot of decel pop with my screaming eagle high flow intake and V&H staggered short shots with the screamin eagle tune.. I got the V&H FP3 and no more decel pop. the screamin eagle tuner doesn't let you tune air fuel ratio while the FP3 does, so that's another reason why i switched to the FP3.
Can you adjust the idle speed with this tuner?
You can within a limited range
Hi, great videos and tutorials for those that like to get their hands dirty and DIY rather than leave it to the dealership, thanks for posting.
My question is regarding the Screamin Eagle ECU programer. You state two types? One that complies to your (Im in England) EPA regulations, and the (orange? ) one that was banned? "Pro street" " Street race" ??
Can you clarify which one you used and supply a part number so I can compare what is available here in the UK, obviously our emmisions regs are slightly different (but still bloody anal!).
Ideally I would like a programmer that I could plug into the OBD and not be held back by programme blocks or parameters not applicable to where I ride :-)
Hope this makes sense.
Thanks.
i can unlock if you want fabricationdec@hotmail.com
Why you just don’t let the SE Smart Pro Tuner do the adjustment by itself? That’s not the purpose of it? I’m kinda lost with your video! I’m torn between the H&V FP3 and the SE Smart Pro Tuner.
The Smart tune pro is an addon to the Screamin Eagle Street tuner. A $400 addon that brings wideband o2 sensors into play. Using the regular street tuner you have to data log and let the software make the recommended changes.
Better luck next time. Follow the instructions.