Maytag washer diagnosis (Basket speed sensor fault testing, lid lock test, shifter/actuator replace
Vložit
- čas přidán 14. 10. 2018
- Support the Channel by donating or using the links down below.
Try Amazon Business- amzn.to/3ukXqHe
Try Audilbe Plus Free Trial Here - amzn.to/3yx65te
Amazon Prime 30 day Free Trial- amzn.to/3fd7z4g
Call us today with you model number and we will make sure you get the right part
888-655-8569
In most cases we can get you the part the next day if ordered before 4pm central time.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Links
"Red" Shifter/actuator p/n w10006355 amzn.to/3sfIZqh (affiliate link)
"Black" Shifter actuator p/n w10913953 amzn.to/3024LAg (affiliate link)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Donations are appreciated you can donate here - www.paypal.me/Beardedappliance
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Stop by our Amazon store to pick up must have tools for appliance repair
www.amazon.com/shop/beardedappliancerepair
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Diagnosis of a Maytag top load washer. Entering diagnostics is easy. L R R R L R turns with the knob in standby mode. Timing is critical there is a small pause between each motion. Too fast won’t enter diagnostics along with being too slow.
Once in diagnostics turn the knob clock wise once to enter saved error codes. The tech sheet will tell you what the lights mean. Tech sheet is located at the front left hand side on the inside of that panel.
Once you figure out the codes you can go from there on diagnosing the issue. We had basket speed sensor fault, shifter fault and lid lock fault.
Testing the tachometer you exit diagnostics (by holding the start/pause button for 5-10 seconds) and re-enter. Run the knob until the wash and done light are illuminated. Press start and you’re in the test. Spin the basket and the lights should cycle depending on the speed at which the basket is spinning. If lights don’t move change the shifter/actuator. Once replaced do the test again to see if you get movement in the lights. If you do you know you have resolved that issue.
Testing the lid lock you exit diagnostics and re-enter. Turn the knob clockwise 3 times and press start to enter the manual test. The first test is the lid lock. Press start and it should lock. Press again and it should unlock. If it does not you find the schematic and do voltage test to make sure the board is sending power to the lock. If it is replace the lock. The lock was good in this scenario.
Ran a full test after taking care of the codes and unit worked flawlessly. She is ready for sale.
Thanks for watching! Like and subscribe!
Disclaimer:
I am a proud affiliate/sponsor of these products/services. All opinions and recommendations are honest and expressed with the good intent that you will find them of value. Purchasing through these links will not affect your check out process in any way, but it will support this channel and allow me to keep making valuable videos for you. Thank you for your trust. - Jak na to + styl
Hey brother, just fixed my Maytag using your exact instructions...wife was thrilled and I am the hero...at least for the day...tomorrow will be another battle BUT today?...thanks to you my friend...I am the hero...hope this inspires you to keep on making videos!!!...
Thanks for the video, it helped me diagnose a problem with the speed sensor. I replaced the shifter and now it works like a charm. Much cheaper than buying a new machine or calling in the squad.
Glad to help!
Nice description as to what that sensor does and how it does it, this is my 100 video looking for that axplaination thanks , keep it up.
Hey man I haven't fixed the problem yet however you're already my hero. You deserve all the subs man. Perfect information and showing by doing while giving explanation. You're the man!
Thank you sooo much for showing me it was just a couple bolts, my tach wasnt working until I took the shifter apart and put it back together, it now works, liked and subbed.
Your video helped out alot...fixed my problem!! Great step by step details. Thank you
mflorez33 I’m glad to hear it helped! Thanks for the feedback.
I just did the very same replacement of the SHIFT ACTUATOR . The hard part was the new improved part that now comes with a large piece of black plastic that prevents you from just plugging in the wire connector straight into the shifter. I had to saw off most of the plastic cover to get the wire connector plugged in . There is not enough stretch in the available wiring to be able to run it around and up into the shifter plug. It is the right part and I verified it. I did the Automatic test after install and then ran a load of clothes thru a full cycle and no trouble.
Yeah I noticed they upgraded it maybe 6 months ago(could have been longer). I have only seen one though. You will probably get a longer life out of it. Whirlpool is trying to improve it, that is a good thing. Great question though.
Great Job!! This was my fix after several attempts. Important to check all the fault codes and write them down as this one was the 3rd one down. Best to all who do their own repairs courtesy of CZcams and guys like you. I have hearing issues but even with headphones the audio was a bit low. Lots of good information here.
Doug Kiss thanks for the kind words Doug. Glad to help. These things can be tricky even when you know what you’re doing lol. Great point on writing the codes down. Some matter more than other. Like over loaded code just mean put less clothes in. Stuck keys code you can make that yourself just by canceling a cycle and holding it for too long. I get the lid lock code a lot. If you test it and it’s good than its good. False positive code. Every code you get you have to verify operation of that part it points too.
Congrats on getting it fixed too. It’s one of the greatest feelings in the world! Haha
Dear Bearded appliances I am going to follow this steps to troubleshoot my washer machie maytag model#mvwc565fw1; I started my repair by replacing the drive hub kit that was completely broken that was preventing the machine to dry the clothes.
After the replacement of this the machine was functioning normal for about 7 complete full washes; then the machine stop doing the full cycle spinn leaving the clothes wet. I replace the motor's capacitor and the clutch kit and was recalibrated again and try againg to wash clothes and It's doing a weird things like spinning at very high speed than nomal during the spinn cycle and sounds like is straggling during cycles and not doing the click sound on every cycle.
Please advice.
Thank you
Victor Ojeda
Test for individual components is very interesting. I was not aware each component could be tested individually. The onboard manual can be a little difficult to learn the way it is written. " Page four. Test eight". If "******", "Page six test three" and so on.
I need to get a better grasp on these electronic appliances.
Thanks, I will try to see exactly what you did here. I have pulled up error codes, but as I think was shown here with so many showing that were not the real problem, I need to get the individual tests down pat.
After watching this video I was able to repair my Maytag Centennial dryer mine had lent up inside the drum speed sensor area which was causing intermittent failures to spin out clothing
Thanks for this video---I found that the plastic covers over the photoreceptor and light source were very dirty, rusty dusty brown covered. I cleaned it thoroughly with Dawn and Qtips, wiped clean and reinstalled---tested OK per booklets rpm check. Re-calibrated and it works like new. THX.
how do you re-calibrate after maintenance ?
@@jetboy770371 The procedure is in the booklet inside the front panel of the machine---It's been a month now and still working without a hitch.
Extremely helpful video, thank you!
Helpful video!!! Thank you very much!!!
Just to add the stuck key pad code is coming from the start button.Need to pull rubber button back in place this also can cause problems.Whirlpool has change the button on the newer models.
Great job on your repair fix !!
I believed I caused that error code. You didn’t we it off camera but I had issues getting into diagnostics. If you hold that button for too long that error code can pop up on you when it thinks there is a stuck key.
The new design is better. No rubber to fall back. I usually don’t mess with those rubber pieces, they usually fall right back when you get it back where it’s supposed to be.
U frekin awesome! This video was a great help!!
Ramon Sanchez man yeah! Glad to help.
👍🏼 thank you sir
I get code F7E1 and F7E7, I did the spin test and at first I couldn't spin the basket at all, then I could get to to spin and the lights moved with it. I went back to try a slower spin like you suggested to someone else, and I was getting resistance from the basket again. I do see some evidence of reddish brown dust on the white cover and on the tile floor.
Same issue here. Changed the speed sensor and nothing changed. I have nothing but resistance. I actually can't turn the basket at all. Did you figure out the issue with yours?
Replace the gearcase
Remove the belt and try and spin the wash basket by hand , it should spin easily and coast to a stop with little noise , if it makes a grinding sound and does not spin easily you have a new transmission in your future , replace the belt remove the shift unit and manualy shift the splutch so that its in spin mode , (the pulley will turn in sync with the drum) if it becomes hard to spin the tub now,, you have a drive motor with bad bearings that will have to be replaced ..
Can you share a link to test the sensor?
This was amazing. Thx
Good day, Sir, I have a Maytag Centennial and the lid lock light stays on but the lid does not lock , washer does not operate and I can not get it to go into diagnostic mode. I welcome any ideas you have on fixing this. Thanks in advance.
I'm getting code Sensing, spin and done. Rpm test was good and lid lock works. Problem is it won't spin and drain on its own. Works when manually switch it?
Before changing the tach, take it off and clean the pickups. They get dirty. I cleaned mine and it did the trick.... works fine now.
Never thought about that one. I’ll remember that and give it a shot when I run into these in the future. You learn something everyday!
@@BeardedApplianceRepair I could not tell the one you took off did not look that dirty but mine was. Thanks for the video .....
If its dirty, check to make sure its not oil or something like that. That would mean the gearbox is leaking. Another thing these washers are known for.
I wondered about that too. Glad you mentioned it.
Great video, still trying figure out the codes. I replaced the shift actuator but no luck.my washing does not spin dry and makes a grinding noise....help! Any suggestion?
For grinding noise I would look at the pulley underneath the washer. Make sure the nit that holds it down is right. If that is right the pulley may be stripped out. Take it apart to see if you notice anything damaged.
I have the same maytag with the basket speed sensor fault. I ran the test when I spun the basket each light flashed while the basket spun. Can I assume my speed sensor assembly is good. Can you give me any other ideas for this code. Thanks Bill
Thank you.
If I replace the actuator and the tachometer test still doesn’t function (Reads done light on only), giving me F7E7 and F7E1, does that mean it’s a control board problem? Or the motor capacitor?
My blue and white wire to the shifter was broke in half. No bad parts.
They Make Shit SO FUKKN CHEAP These Dayz!!!
Same washer, red actuator but I can’t find the same one online that matches the part number.
I have Maytag Centennial with problems.
When I try to recalibrate it, it gets to Spin and will not stop spinning. I have to unplug it for a little while then plug it back in to get the lid to unlock.
The only code I get is F7 E1.
According my meter the shifter motor is good.
It does have a little shake to it when spinning, so I do feel like it needs suspension rods.
I am now thinking g it may not be spinning quite fast enough for the a speed sensor to work.
I suspect something might be under the wash plate or between the tub and basket.
Of course the wash plate does not want to come off easily.
Guess I will try soaking it in penetrating spray for a while then try to get it off.
I will also check the pump.
Comment?
Mine is doing the faulty switch and badket sensor but when testing their fine but still will not start can I clear the codes somehow? I'm not sure how to make it work if the codes are not actually bad
Awesome😊 but...when I did it I couldn’t get a good result. Upsetting. I think I bought a dud shifter. Waddya think?
Thk u may try
Tks...brother
Welcome
I have a Maytag Centennial MVWC300XW1 that won't spin or agitate. The motor starts, then stops within 1-2 seconds. All other tests (fill/drain) work fine. I've verified the motor is good based on ohm readings, replaced the actuator, changed the splutch cam assembly, but nothing works. Any idea what this could be? I'm about to try replacing the run capacitor as a last resort.
Did you find the problem
i have a amana washer and i get the same error code f7e1 it passed the tachometer test and i changed the actuator but its still broke. what happens is when i start a load the sensing fill light comes on and water fills the drum but thats it. it just fills with water and stays in sensing fill. the lid lock doesn't lock either but the lid lock passed in testing
Thank you for the video, I have F7E1 code on my Maytag, followed the diagnosis step mentioned and when I lift the lid and then spin the tub, I see the codes spin as well. So I am assuming it is not actuator , but something else?
Figure it out? I have speed sensor issue, agitators work but spin up fail after a few seconds. I'm thinking the capacitor or actuator but idk.
My tachometer works(wrong it didn't work stopped motor from spinning up even though it seemed to work on the speed sensor test. Spin it fast to check if it keeps working.)
Did either of you find the problem
@@yourhealingfoodie4365 I found my speed sensor or the shift actuator needed replaced. The speed sensor acted liked it worked until the tub would spin rapidly and then it would fail. So speed sensor test and try spinning basket really fast, if it has any pauses the speed sensor is bad. I also replaced the entire transmission beacuse it was so loud and leaking. I also cleaned the basket with a brass wire brush beacuse it was wobbly. I also replaced the basket hub beacusenof the wobble. The only real issue was the speed sensor stopping it from spinning up. The wobbles were just cleaning the basket and worn out plastic hubs. The leak was the transmission seal and the jet engine noise was the transmission bearing wearing out. Now I have a decent washer! 170 transmission 20$ shift actuator/speed sensor 9$ hub.
I have the same error code. Changed that part. Didn't fix it. Same problem: it'll finish sensing but quits working after the cycle begins
How do you recalibrate a newer model (It shows the error codes on a digital screen) Maytag MVWX700XL2, after replacing the actuator. I can't seem to find instructions to recalibrate a newer Maytag model.
www.justanswer.com/appliance/8g5vc-hello-working-maytag-bravos-model-mvwx700xl2-i-ve.html
This may help. When in diagnostics scroll to the rinse light and hit start. In the link there is a screenshot of the calibration procedure. Hope it helps.
At first when it finished washing the clothes were still wet seem like it wasn’t spinning very hard on the spin cycle so I change the belt but the clothes were still wet. Then after watching your video I went through their diagnostic modes and the only thing that came up with shift actuator so I change that and now when I try it it wouldn’t give the all clear sign with the lights blinking across. And when I try washing now the lid lock light comes on the sensing light comes on and then the sensing light goes off in the lid lock light starts blinking and won’t run so I am at a loss of what to do next and thank you for answering back to me appreciate any help you can give me
Dell Davis if your getting the basket speed sensor fault and the tachometer test check okay it may be the suspension rods. These rods are what hold the wash tub and basket up. The way to test them is just like testing shocks on a car. If you push don’t and it keeps bouncing back and forth with easy then there is your problem. Good suspension rods- you push down and the basket comes right back up and stays, stabilizing the tub. That may be your original problem.
Dell Davis as for the blinking like problem. I would check to make sure the actuator was installed properly. You can test the actuator by going into the manual test. Than testing the agitate function and spin function. But first make sure everything is back where it needs to be. Everything connected that you took off. Etc.
When I first started I would forget simple stuff like that all the time. If everything there is working come back and let me know. That’s just the next step I would take. Check those suspension rods too.
Bearded Appliance Repair Thank you for the reply I tested the rods and when I push down in the basket comes up it stays up so I’m pretty sure they’re good
Dell Davis yeah sounds like it. Than I would follow the error codes and try and pinpoint the problem. The tech sheet will help if you were able to figure out where that was. You can test each component individually. Running either a manual or automatic test and see where it fails. If shifter doesn’t shift and you already changed it out you may be looking at a control board issue. Running those tests should tell you if that is the case.
I will say most of the time these washers are easy to fix or pretty tough. There’s not much middle ground on these things. Lol. Good luck.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair would the suspension rods not working right leave our clothes wet?
Make sure to pull those buttons out from behind the panel too or they can keep pressure against the board and cause it to do all kinds of weird shit
Did you replace or snap it back
When doing a tachometer test the basket doesn't spin freely.. It takes some strength (two hands) . Is that normal? All the leds change when I'm doing it, it just feels like it should be easier to spin.
Yes it should be easy. You have a bind some where. Could be anything from a shirt stuck between the basket and tub to dog food being put in the motor area from a rodent. I have seen both out in the field. Could be stuck bearings as well. Just have to check it out and see what preventing it from spinning. Good luck!
Thank you you just save me 250 dollars keep on doing videos
Thank you for this! It’s been a huge help but now I’m stuck. I’m getting error codes f2 e1 & f7 e1. Tried the spinning of the basket test and it passed. What else would it be??
Read through the comments. I have answered what else to check on other comments before. Read though them and see if any of those threads can help you.
When i attempt to run a diagnostics it goes to done. I changed the actuator and same problem?Any help appreciated
Can you give me more information. What in diagnostics are you trying to run? What error codes are you getting. What is your washer doing or not doing?
I believe I have a lid switch lock problem basic on figuring out the error codes. Is there a way to bypass the switch for testing. It has a blue, white, and red wire? How would I jumper the connection. Do you think it would cause the basket to shake so erratically?
I would look into your suspension rods if you’re getting excess shaking. If your unit will spin your lid lock is fine.
@@BeardedApplianceRepairupon farther research it is probably the gear case, for 2 reasons : burn smell and grease coming from the splutch cam, is it worth fixing?
P L I think that parts runs around $175. I would only do it if you’re 100% sure it’s you’re problem. If that’s not it you will be in a hole when you could have put $175 towards a new one.
Does the basket spin on its own,,or are you spinning it manually,
Joseph Vallejo Yep, you spin it manually during the tachometer test. Faster you spin the basket the faster the lights cycle.
How do I test that thing to see if it's broken?
Could this be a problem and not throw codes? Mine goes through and passes all diagnostic auto tests but then soon as it tries to spin up it stops and the drum just spins to stop with sensing and lid locked and that is it.
I have the exact Maytag washing machine. When washing towels the towels are totally soaked and they are not spinned dried. When I place the machine in the drain and spin cycle the machine shows it is sensing, sounds like it's draining but is not and the machine will not spin? Any idea what could be wrong?
Steve Balistreri you will have to tip it over and check to see if there is anything in the drain pump. You can find things like socks, nails, hair clips etc. if there is nothing in the pump and the drain line is clear you probably need a new drain pump. The impeller can break on the pump and it sound like it should be draining and it doesn’t. Before you take it apart you will want to pump the water out with a shop vac otherwise you will flood your floor. Hope this helps Steve.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair Thank you for your response. was thinking it might have been the actuator? If the impeller is not broken what do you think?
The actuator just shifts from spin to agitate and tracks spin speed. Since you have standing water in the unit I would look at getting that drain problem fixed. The drain pump runs no mater what position the actuator is in. The the impeller is busted replace the drain pump.
If the drain problem is fixed run a cycle to make sure nothing else is wrong. Just holler at me if you need any help.
Steve Balistreri glad to help too btw. That’s why I’m hear. You happen to be the lucky one though. I usually don’t see comment for a couple of hours or until the next day. Good luck and I’ll help when I can!
@@BeardedApplianceRepair Thank you and I really appreciate it.
I had the F7E0 error, but my tachometer was working. It seems the basket doesn't bounce so I figured the suspension rods were fine. The actuator was only about $25, so I thought I would try that. I ran a test and no error codes. First wash was fine, but back to same issue where it will spin, just slowly like a gentle cycle. When I try only the spin and drain, you can hear the motor start spinning fast, but them the motor just quits like it is going too fast. Also, I can't see the water, but I hear it swishing below the tub. Other than that it seems to drain fine. Very little water came out when I had it on its side replacing the actuator.
I'm afraid it is the control board. But I'll have almost as much into fixing the washer as I paid for it and there is no guarantee that would work. Any other ideas?
I'm in the same boat. tachometer working fine. I remember before the last spin of the cycle is very violent hitting next to my dryer. Now, it's a light shake. The work around currently is to do a drain and spin after a regular spin cycle. I'm leaning towards a weak motor. Any ideas? If that's the case, might as well buy a brand new one. motor is a $100+ piece with no guarantee long term working condition.
Test the motor run Capacitor (after making sure its charge is drained) and make sure its not bad with a meter in capacitance test you should see at least 40 uf
,, a bad motor run cap will make the machine spin slowly , and also confuse the control boards current sensing circuits making it throw errors ,, or halt the cycle ,, if the capacitor tests good , suspect a possible issue with the control board , check the wiring harness for broken or bad connections . I have seen wires where they flex,, break under the insulation..
@@khoayeuha Test the motor run capacitor if its bad replace it ..
I have a Whirlpool (model #WTW5000DW1) and the machine is having the following problem: during wash cycle it does lock the lead and it’s not agitating. The lead does lock during rise cycle. Can you please advise what the problem is?
Maybe a board problem? That is not a normal issue. Sounds like the board it geting wonky. Check error codes and go from there.
Did you find the solution? I'm having the same issue and wondering if I should replace the shift actuator or the board?
So I tried this test, and the tachometer test worked, so I replaced it anyway with another one... but the light fails each time the washer runs a cycle and won't unlock without cycling the power... any ideas what's next? I've already tried the lid lock test as well and it passed....Now I've also purchased a used capacitor and that didn't fix it either.
Same, did you ever find the source, did you have error codes?
@@yourhealingfoodie4365 yes it turned out it was erroring out on the speed sensor but not because of the tachometer it was the hub that locks the basket on a spin. Cheap enough part but OMG the wash plate was very hard to remove
Codes F7 E1 and F7 E7. I ran auto and manual diagnostic but I can't even budge the basket. Will not spin at all. I changed the tachometer and still no fix and basket still won't budge. Please help if you can
Just watched your video I have the same Washing machine and it was calling for the speed sensor fault just like in your video I replaced the sensor and I ran the test like you showed us in the video it’s just getting the done light staying on what would you suggest I do now could it be at the main control can I run another test to double check thank you
Dell Davis start from the beginning. What is your washer doing or not doing?
Dell Davis the symptom is key to where to start troubleshooting. Wether it’s not draining or won’t do anything to a no spin. If you can give me the symptoms I may be able to help you figure this thing out.
Very instructive. But sound by default is too low.
Can the actuator be removed and ohm tested via the schematic, or will that possibly just show it to electrically good when it is mechanically faulty?
Not sure the schematic tells you which wire go to the motor and such. I’m sure you could if you had the right information. I would just test it in diagnostics. If you see it move back and forth from agitate to spin than back the other way I would call it good.
What if you can't get it to go into diagnostic mode?
How can I change lid locked part coz I think it costing the problem 😳
Is there a way I can fix this instead buying new
There’s probably a way but I would not be able to help you there. I’m an “O” level tech. Repair parts themselves would be an “I” level tech thing.
I have machine like this, it wash's good but when it needs to spin it trys then starts flashing "lid lock" and stops. I did find weak capacitor, 28mfd out of 45, and fixed that. Also tried new lid lock but still doing it. Any Ideas??
Chris Wilson what error codes you getting?
Chris Wilson I would do the tachometer test if you haven’t already. When it goes into spin and if it don’t see that it’s spinning you are probably looking at the actuator. The tachometer test will tell you if that’s the case.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair Thanks for replying, it passes the tach test, flashes leds when spinning basket. as far as error codes has alot.
basket speed sensor,hi water temp, motor unable to reach target RPM, motor control failure, lid switch fault. so lots to choose from but I think it is the actuator. thanks again
Chris Wilson At 6:45 in the video you see me showing the part of the transmission that has holes which as it spins will tell the board how fast it’s going. It those look good all the way around you may be looking at a control board. Only way to know is if everything else checks good.
I would try the agitation test as well to see if that work properly. If it does you know the motor and cap is good. You can test the lid lock as well and if it locks and unlocks than there no issue there. You do need the lid lock to be engaged when you do the agitation test though. So make sure it’s locked when you try it.
I will say I work on a lot of these and when a control board is quoted folks decline the estimate so I can’t be 100% sure a control board will fix your problem.
Problems on these washers are either easy to fix and extremely hard. I may have to recommend replacing the unit since these control boards are a couple hundred dollars. I would only want to install one if it were guaranteed it will fix it.
Good luck Mr. Wilson and I’m glad to help. I just wish I were more of a help.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair you where very helpful,Thanks again. I got an actuator and capacitor off Ebay and it marches right thru all the cycles now, was just confusing that the lid lock light would flash from a failed actuator..
What if when I spin the basket the lights move with it
That means your tachometer is good inside the shifter. Been on vacation and it’s my first day back. You figure it out?
I have the code f7e1 and am not sure what to fix. Can u help?
I already replaced the shift actuator and got rid of the 2 other codes I had
where can I get a code book from
percy pollard if you can’t find it on the unit here is a link to one.
www.scribd.com/document/267870587/W10468340-Tech-Sheet-pdf-WTW4900AW0
I just replaced the actuator sensor & it's still doing the same thing, not spinning/washing my clothes. When I did a diagnosis I got the sensor code so that's why I changed the sensor. That's the only code I received. After I replaced the actuator still not working. Help
Basket speed sensor fault? Did you run the tachometer test? If the tachometer tests good you need to look at other things before you change it. Look for things like a broken belt, hub or pulley. Feel for restrictions when you spin the tub manually. If you find restrictions you will need to take things apart and find out why.
Codes don’t mean parts are automatically bad. You need to test and verify what is and is not working to diagnose these things. Hey into manual diagnostics too and run the spin and agitate.
Good luck
@@BeardedApplianceRepair Thank you for replying. Yes I changed the speed sensor & I'll run a tachometer test on it. No the basket doesn't spin manually. When it washes the clothes the basket just rocks back & forth. I'll try those things you mentioned. I really appreciate it.
Sounds like something is jammed. Could be bearings causing it to not turn easy. Which entails it to replace the transmission and I think that runs $175.
Could be a t shirt or something between the tub and basket preventing it from turning easy. Just check out where it’s binding to give you an idea of what needs to be done.
The tach test showed my actuator wasn't working. Replaced and washer is working.
Hi I have Kenmore(110.20022012) it's giving code F7 E7(unable to reach target RPM) and F7 E1(Basket speed sensor fault). I just tried the tach test and it's working? Any ideas on this I'm going to get multimeter out and run this 3a test but hoping it's not the main board
Matt C check to make sure the basket spins freely. If not may have something between basket and tub like a kid T-shirt or something.
Check suspension rods and make sure they are working. Just push down on the basket and see if it comes back up and stays or if it keeps bouncing. If it bounces it needs suspension rods.
If those above are working you may have to start taking it apart and see if anything is wore out. The hub underneath the agitator or pulley which connects to the belt.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair ok thanks ok I will check this stuff I should've explained it works 80% of the time sometimes if it fails clothes will still be wet but water is drained so it's a spin issue of some sort
Matt C sounds like suspension rods. They are common to go bad. Let me know. I’m curious to know.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair ok basket moves freely and here is a video of testing suspension seems ok to me? czcams.com/video/Ktlc4y_fhwg/video.html. Also I rechecked codes and only had 1 code F0 E5(Off balance load detected)
@@BeardedApplianceRepair I have a similar problem with a Kenmore 11026012011 model. Wife always uses bulky setting to get lots of water and she likely overloaded the washer and got a strong burning smell but she shut off the washer right away. At first I got the F7E7 error but after doing a calibration test it ran through the test OK and the errors cleared. When I tried a trial wah (just a pair of jeans) it faulted out again with an F7E1 code ( still related to the F7E7, I guess). I did a tachometer test and it looks good but when I did the automatic run test the motor hums just before the agitate/spin cycle and faults out (F7E1) I guess the shift actuator motor is pooched. Does that sound likely from overloading? Any test that I can do for that? Thanks! Great videos.
I have this exact washer. Error codes are: F2E1, F5E1, F9E1, F0E2. I ordered the actuator. The washer is sensing and not moving into wash cycle. When I did the test cycle it did put water in the drum. Any other suggestions other than replacing that actuator? Thanks in advance.
Lid lock working? Draining like it should? Seeing too many suds?
Bearded Appliance Repair not draining, but lid lock working and suds not a problem
Yeah investigate why it’s not draining. If you found that tech sheet it will have the info on how to test it. My guess is either your drain pump is bad or something is in it like a screw/coin or a sock.
Bearded Appliance Repair Actuator will be here Monday. I’ll be taking it a part and checking the pump. When I get everyone out of the house. Thank God it’s just 3 of us, but I work better alone when it comes to this kind of stuff
Sounds good good luck and let me know how it goes
My Maytag washer will not spin on the end cycle ? Can you help
How did the tachometer test go? Pass or fail? If it failed get the actuator. If not get the error codes off and that should point you j. The right direction. Could be a draining issue or stuck water valve or lid lock issue. Could also be the actuator but need more information to help you.
What have you done so far?
@@BeardedApplianceRepair the clothes still are wet after the wash but when I put it back on spin cycle then it spinds dry ?
CAR MAC 1 get error code off the unit. They will point you in the right direction.
Won't Spin. F7 E5 code but not sure if it's the capacitor or shifter issue. Tachometer works fine in manual test...
Please Help?!?
They can fail at low speed, I have found. Spin the tub slowly when it is in the tachometer test and see if it moves. See if you can spin it in a full circle without getting the lights to move. If so try cleaning the sensor part it may just need that.
If you see red/brown dust on it, then you have a leak from the transmission.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair czcams.com/video/cyzN_W9KJVg/video.html
@@BeardedApplianceRepair tachometer seems to be fine but you have me worried about the transmission now
Link (if it ever uploads) is a video of the washer
My washer is a maytag bravos mct n it washes drains n puts water in my washer but it wont spin n will still have suds in my washer at the end of cycle but when its finish it wont say finish it will just stay on spin but wont spin is that my actuator that needs to be replaced ?? Plz help thanks
That’s a possible issue. Get into diagnostics and test out the actuator by going from agitate test to the spin test. If it shifts I would not change it. If it don’t shift it’s more likely you need the actuator.
Your may or may not have this part. Depending on how it made. You may need a new shaft or hub assembly if it’s a different design. Share your model number. That will give me a better idea of what washer you have and can point you in the right direction.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair my model number is mvwx500xlo I do have the actuator but I will try ur test if I can figure out how
@@BeardedApplianceRepair I did the test it put a little water in it then the whole machine shut off
Rebecca Templet yep you’re right you have the actuator.
Let’s start with error codes. Let me know which ones you get. That will point us in the right direction.
At this point I’m not sure what’s going on with it. Error codes will help us determine what you need to check. These things are complicated in a sense. When you filled it up with water and it shuts off, that don’t make sense at all. That simply just should not happen. Is your plug good?
@@BeardedApplianceRepair I may have not done that right I've never had to put my washing machine into diagnosis mode n someone gave me this machine a few days ago n they said it does e everything but spin which it does it washes n all that but just doesnt spin n when i do get it to spin it spin a few minutes at high speed then slows down n the lid lock will just flash n i have to unplug the machine to get it to open. I no how to get it into diagnosis mode just dont no how to get to the codes of what's wrong
Hello
Can you please tell me how to delete the locking mechanism
You can't delete the locking mechanism on the newer VMW washers.
@@tgriffin6938 how do you delete it?
Sooooo, your not gonna test it???
Confusing.
I tell you what. You take that actuator out and obviously it ha wires coming out of it, tyically of 4 of them. two red and two black. So why, no seriously, why is it so difficult that you can't check and won't check the resistance to them wires and clarify what the readings should be. You won't and guess no one does. So what is the gimmick?
But you justify it by following the instruction of the computer. Not so fast, the computer does not know the difference between a bad wiring and a bad internal working of the actuator. And that is a fact. But selling the actuator motor is direct approach and plus keep all the people from understanding what the principle of it all is.
No don't show them how to fish, give them a fish and keep 'em coming for more. And thank you too. You can't beat that with a long stick.
You did not do any test you just took 1 off and put the other 1 on
These washers are garbage. All models
David Beltrán they are not the greatest. Most fixes are easy but others will run you for a loop. I sell tons of these used when all they need is a shift/actuator or suspension rods.