MINI R56 Timing Chain Replacement DIY (2007-2010 MINI Cooper S and 2009-2012 JCW's) N14 & N12 Engine
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2024
- ►2007-2010 MINI Cooper S and 09-12 JCW models with the N14 engine, also known as the R56 MINI, are known for timing chain issues. This video covers how to replace the timing chain without putting your R56 into "Service Position."
The R56 is known to develop the "death rattle" dubbed by the MINI community. This is caused by insufficient tension applied by the timing chain tensioner to the timing chain, allowing the timing chain to contact the sides of the engine. This is most noticeable on cold start-up but can be heard any time while driving if it's severe enough.
It's important to catch this problem before it becomes a larger issue as it can ultimately cause your timing chain to skip teeth on the camshaft gears (VANOS) and skip timing. If this happens, it means the destruction of your engine.
Without knowing how much timing chain stretch your N14 or N12 has experienced, we recommend performing an entire timing chain service rather than replacing only the timing chain tensioner. This will prevent catastrophic failure.
This DIY requires numerous special tools, and at a minimum, eight hours of your time. If you're a novice, it's recommended to seek professional help to complete this service.
Buy This Kit Here:
www.fcpeuro.com/products/mini...
Buy Specialty Tools Here:
Timing Tool Kit: www.fcpeuro.com/products/mini...
Engine Block Holding Tool: www.fcpeuro.com/products/mini...
Mini Serpentine Belt Tool: www.fcpeuro.com/products/mini...
Crankshaft Counter Hold: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...
0:00 - Intro
1:31 - Tools required to replace MINI N14 Timing Chain
2:37 - Air Intake and Air Box Removal
3:52 - Headlight Removal
4:25 - Grille and U Brace Removal
6:21 - Remove the Intercooler Charge Pipes
9:00 - Taking off The Ignition Coils and PCV Hoses
10:04 - Removing the Valve Cover on an N14
11:36 - Spark Plug Removal and Locking the Tensioner
12:25 - Serpentine Belt Removal
13:50 - Positioning the Cams to Lock the Timing
15:15 - Lock the Crankshaft
15:45 - Using the N14 Timing Tools to lock the Timing
17:20 - Remove Crank Sprocket and Friction Wheel/Crank Pulley
17:58 - Remove Timing Chain Tensioner
18:30 - Removing the Engine Mount and Mount Bracket
19:10 - Engine Harness Brackets and additional Wiring Brackets for Clearance
21:11 - Insert Crank Lock Tool
22:00 - Remove Top Guide, Vanos/Cam Gears, and Guide Pins
23:40 - Lift out Timing Cassette
24:00 - Prepare New Timing Chain Kit
25:40 - Install New Crank Seal
26:28 - Install New Timing Cassette, Crank Hub, and Cam Gears
28:00 - Install Crank Bolt, Guide Pins, and Timing Chain Guide
29:25 - Pre Load Timing Chain Tensioner
30:00 - Torque To Yield Cam Gears
30:32 - Torque Crank Bolt
31:18 - Install New Timing Chain Tensioner
31:45 - Remove Timing Lock Tools and Hand Turn Over Engine
33:00 - Reinstall Accesories and Torque Down Accordingly
34:48 - Reinstall New Belts
35:15 - Reinstall Engine Mount Bracket and Mount
37:30 - Install a New Valve Cover Gasket and Valve Cover back onto Car
39:00 - Igntion System Installation
39:45 - Finish Buttoning Up Intake System
42:50 - Fire Up Car to Ensure it Runs properly
43:00 - Finish Buttoning up the Car
45:30 - Conclusion
Fits These Cars:
Mini Cooper
2007 Mini Cooper S 1.6L
Body: Hatchback, Chassis: R56
2008 Mini Cooper S 1.6L
Body: Hatchback, Chassis: R56
2008 Mini Cooper S Clubman
2009 Mini Cooper S Engine
2009 Mini Cooper S Clubman
2009 Mini Cooper John Cooper Works Engine Timing Chain Kit
2009 Mini Cooper John Cooper Works Clubman Engine Timing Chain Kit
2010 Mini Cooper S Engine Timing Chain Kit
2010 Mini Cooper S Clubman Engine Timing Chain Kit
2010 Mini Cooper John Cooper Works Engine Timing Chain Kit
2010 Mini Cooper John Cooper Works Clubman Engine Timing Chain Kit
2011 Mini Cooper John Cooper Works Engine Timing Chain Kit
2011 Mini Cooper John Cooper Works Clubman Engine Timing Chain Kit
2012 Mini Cooper John Cooper Works Engine Timing Chain Kit
2012 Mini Cooper John Cooper Works Clubman Engine Timing Chain Kit
2012 Mini Cooper Coupe John Cooper Works Engine Timing Chain Kit
2012 Mini Cooper Roadster John Cooper Works Engine Timing Chain Kit
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**Correction** At 29:06 in the video we inadvertently put in the wrong torque spec for the 8mm bolts on the upper timing chain guide. The torque spec should be *8 Nm* NOT 30 Nm. We apologize for the confusion.
Buy the kit used in this video at fcpeuro.com - www.fcpeuro.com/products/mini-n14-timing-chain-kit-11318618317kt?
also you said 50nm on the crankshaft and the video shows 20nm
Yeah it's meant to be 50nm
Probably should edit that out and re upload a new one. I know this one has a ton of views but imagine if someone watches this and doesn’t look at the comments. Lots o strippy
@FCP Euro what grease are you putting on the crank seal? 25:44
I followed the 30nm and snapped the bolts like a dummy, i didn’t even question why these 8mm bolts would be torqued that high lol
Priceless video guide shared with MINI enthusiasts. Sincerely appreciate your efforts in releasing such a professional DIY, guys. Great job!
Been in the business almost 60 years. You did a great job and will be recommending your company’s services whenever necessary.
Thank you for making this content free! Helpful to so many
Hey Taylor, happy to provide it, thank YOU for watching!
Hope as a novice person your video will help me do a timing chain correctly as my 1st ever timing chain replacement thank you 😊
Did you get it done right…just checking?!?!
Thankyou for putting this guide on CZcams! I’m looking to get a mini soon and want to build to doing this myself. Will definitely help me in the months to come!
This is a fantastic DIY guide - Cory has a very comforting voice - lol. I have to say I wonder where I sit on the "novice" scale. I've done a lot of suspension stuff, axles, brakes, etc - what I call "nuts and bolts" jobs. I do have all the proper torque wrenches and tools, but stuff "inside the motor" is intimidating. I do wish the video had documented the point where the motor is in time more specifically as well as the bit with the borescope - obviously an important piece to get right - but overall extremely well-done and much appreciated!!
I'm going to do this tomorrow in my driveway watching you in one hand on My phone and wrenching with the other hand.
Let us know how it goes, good luck Nick!
Hi Nick, I need to do this also. Please tell me, how did it go? Did this video cover everything? I sure hope so, can't afford another $2,000 to $6,000 repair bill.
Thanks for this video. Well done! i was able to start and complete this job on a N18 (seized chain tensioner, broke the top guide). The kit had everything i needed and and had fun doing this job. THANK YOU!!
Love to hear that Lushan! Motor On and enjoy your MINI!
Real good video !!! , I just bought a really nice 2007 mini no rust and pretty clean for real cheap price. The only thing I got to do, replace the engine cause bearing is bad in piston number 1.... so a video like this is a must.... the only engine I swapped was in my suzuki sidekick 1994, far différent !!!
Furthermore, all tools needed are described, simply amazing....
So thanks for the video, very appreciated....
Bro! You are the best! Gave me confidence in doing one of this 🤣 I am ordering the tool kit so I can start recommending them. Thank you for the very detailed video. You got yourself a new subscriber
I love the way you are doing the work,in fact it’s all about the right tools ⚒️,tanx for sharing
Excellent video. Followed and had no problems at all. Love seeing the Snap On!
Wow, this seems like a pretty brutal job.
Its not for the feint of heart, but really if you take your time and follow these steps it really is doable. Once you do this on your MINI it empowers you to take on many more jobs!
It is gives me diareah
It’s actually one of the easiest timing chain jobs to do. Lol. Once you get experience im doing an N12 right now. It’s crazy how simple it is.
Compare to a GL320 Diesel! Or Audi S4 B6
Yeah try doing it on a car where the chain is on the gearbox side 😂
You make it look easy and that is only possible when some one is very good in what he's doing 👍
Thank you!
What a magnificent video!the camera work is world class.
The instructions are some of the clearest and meaningful as could ever be hoped for.
While I'm no where near beginner amateur wrencher I've never touched a Mini.
This video makes me feel this could be doable m.. Maybe lol
Thank you for a professional quality video!!
The best explanatory video in all youtube…..
Good job of narrating and visual of the work being performed
Got the death rattle on my grand daughters car , not looking forward to the job , the video has given me more confidence , so thanks for that . Had it been a B,M,C mini of the 1960;s I knew those inside out , ah well . pete trimble
Thank you so much for making this video. You did a fantastic job!! It helped me a ton.
Props to the guy that had to time code this whole video.
Luckily he's a MINI guy 🙂
outstanding pro work thanks for detail process. Thanks for sharing
Wow thanks for such a great video on this significant maintenance job. Good on ya
Our pleasure Ron, these MINI's need some love!
Really impressive video. Now I know why people say I have to hope the timing chain doesn’t go on my 2007 Cooper S.
isnt the 2007 one supercharged ?
i dont think it has the same problems like the n14 engine
@@Birnenapfelmuss 07 is turbo
Great video! Thank you for posting, super helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Great help when I did mine on my JCW
really appreciate for this clip.i just done timing chain after watch your clip. thank you so much
Fantastic!
This is a brilliant video, I've just ordered a timing chain kit and will definitely be coming back to this for reference.
You can do it!!
I just got a 2010 r56 w/ 78k miles. 3 weeks later, broken down and timing chain. Ordering my kit and the tools and will be trying this myself. Wish us both luck!
@@TheGunner9545how did it go?
@monstermonium1693 went awesome. Until 3 months later and the clutch went. Then the AC compressor went. Then the thermostat housing leaked. Straight money pit. But I still absolutely love the car.
Another great video! Would this be similar for the N18? Also are there plans for more Gen2 Mini videos?
Awesome instructions everything very good to see and understand 👍
Appreciate that, Nik!
As has been said, this is awesome!
Thanks for sharing very informative
Thank YOU Terry for the kind words!
Masterclass !
For freeee ;-)
역시 굿입니다 잘보았습니다 감사합니다
Thanks for the video.
Good work 👍
Thank you for wonderful video. Are the camshaft adjuster need to rotate left or right (or there are stay themself on correct position) before set back on camshaft? Thank you in advance.
Thanks for the video is big helpful
Glad it helped!
Thanks for your help
Happy we could be of help!
thank you!! helped out a lot
I did the procedure the way is indicated here and the vanos came off both the camshaft, I am not sure what I did wrong but they immediately came right off.
I opened up the valve cover to see the timing chain riding between both the sprockets, as soon as I saw that I felt a grim feeling I knew the engine was ruined.
I decided to give it a chance cus why not? I was already there, and put it back together.
I went under and put the crank shaft in time, took the vanos out, camshaft in time and put the gears back in, I tightened them wrench tight, they're not torqued, they're not over tight but they're definitely tight now, put the head back together and crossed my fighters, car started right up but it sounds like an effing diesel now, engine is definitely going to do one last ride if any, hopefully the new timing chain gives it another year but I wouldn't ride with this car through the desert if you know what I mean.
I re usted the old bolts tho and I know now by procedure you're supposed to put new bolts, first time doing this engine and i got to say it's definitely a fun engine to work on, it seems daunting here but once you're hands on doing it, it doesn't feel as bad as other cars I have worked on as a mater of fact is easier to time than most American cars and even if it looks claustrophobic and super tight there is enough room to work on most everything that needs service like the pumps belts and what not, you just got to ride the engine up and down wit the jack but there is plenty of room to work on the wheel weel.
Another point I have to say it's the crank bolt, it definitely can't go 50nm and then a 180⁰ turn; again reusing the bolts, I was fighting with it with my foot and once I got to around 100 and some degrees I decided to just stop
If you're reusing the bolts adjust accordingly, but honestly I would pony up the money for a kit that is worth a 🤬 that has new stretch bolts, gaskets and vanos, if you're there might as well and I would do, oil pump, water pump and timing chain depending of age.
Just food for thought 😎 don't buy cheap crap from eBay, my engine is definitely going to isht the bed at some point
very helpful vid !!! thanks !!!
No problem Finlay!
Hey. First off thanks for the video. I'm putting in the chain tensioner and have a concern. I'm using a mechanical Torque wrench and keeping it at .2-.4nm Torque, nut I'm very worried may have damaged the chain(over stretched it). I've been turning a d turning the bolt that extrudes from the body of the tensioner. It has about 3/4-1 inch of threads still exposed that I could tighten down but feel I'm going to far already. My Torque wrench IS set to .2-.4nm (or atleast under 1nm). My question is, can I just install the real tensioner rather than this placement one and continue with the procedure?
I have the n 18 motor are are both cams torqued at the same torque or are the different. And also do I need the crank holding to to complete the job. Thanks great video
Thanks for sharing!
Our pleasure!
Did you miss a step at 21:56 Remove the crank pulley hub, It magically came out before pulling the chain up? Also thanks for posting this is very helpful!! I havent seen anyone else tightening those bolts with both torque and degrees good to know!
When it comes to specialty tools like timing tools and crank holding tool, you guys should offer those as rentals
We need an MQB timing chain video, and a cylinder head cover reseal DIY PLEASE!
I think we can make that happen
Thank u so much 👍
Doing it at the moment, thanks so much for posting it!
Best of luck!
Hey thanks for posting this video for the Mini enthusiast. Just a question. What advice can you give if the chain actually breaks and put the timing out of place. Thank you!
You guys have any video on f60 diy on front control arm bushing? Would love to see one! Enjoyed every video so far
Should the timing adaption variable camshaft timing control reset automatically after completing the timing chain replacement. My Mini mini cooper R56 2007 N12 non turbo is fine on start up for approx 30 sec and then starts to adjust to a point where there is ticking noise so I stop the engine running. My very basic OBD2 reader shows the P0014 and P0115 codes again. I took all the covers off again and checked the timing (looks aligned on top dead centre). Checked and cleaned the vanos solenoids, they are working fine. Do I need to delete the setting using a more advanced OBD diagnostic tool?
TENÍA QUE PONERLE LA CADENA DE LA BOMBA DE ACEITE ,POR ESO ES MAYOR MENTE ES QUE SUENA ,YO AL MIO LE PUSE LAS DOS CADENA Y QUEDO DE SHOW.
good video. What about ADAPTATION DELETE RELEARN?
My experience with the frozen outside headlight bolts: spin the bolt until the captured nut heats up and melts through it's plastic insert. You will see it start smoking, then you can pull it out with some pliers, you will have to replace the captured nut insert. I'm going to jbweld the nut back into the insert I think that will work, we'll see. Second headlight was even better. I just spun it until it started to smoke a bit. Let it cool down. Then it just unscrewed. It basically 'recaptured' the nut in molten plastic. I hit both nuts with some penetrant the night before. The heat that melts the insert may also help the penetrant. I ran across this on the internet, and was amazed at how well it worked. Drilling the bolt or cutting with Dremel...have fun with that. Been in service mode for a week, alternator out, chain guides look good, but chain measured 73mm so ordered parts and starting timing chain today....
I did the same thing, never bothered to try and fix that mounting point, 3 out of 4 bolts holds it fine been like that since 2016
@@andrewhorak3443 The one I jb welded didn't hold. It is holding the headlight in, but if you turn the screw, the captured nut will spin. It's a lifetime part now unless the light has to come out again...
Have to say I appreciate the hard work you guys do. You saved me $1900 and like $4k if I went to Mini. Sorry I didn't buy your parts though. They were not as cheap as others/ didn't have in stock. Ill keep you guys in my prayers! I owe you
Exelente explicación
Thank You!
The engine block holding tool that you put on at 20:40. Is this a necessary step?
Most complete video I've found on how this is done, would all procedures and torque specs be the same for the N18 engine?
Excellent video, love to know where you get those gloves from, I'd have went through at least 20 pairs doing that job.
Came here because I purchased an 09 with low compression in cyl 3 after a timing chain job. Is there a tutorial to set the correct timing for this n14? I haven't removed the head yet because I can find a proper timing guide for this car
I owned a 2007 in around 2012, 2013 which had the death rattle. Paid $3k for that. I replaced it with a new 2015 shortly after that. In about 2018 I received a letter telling me I could get my money back for it, I just had to have all the maintenance records, proof of oil changes, proof of payment for the chain job. So remember, when you have maintenance done on your car, hang on to it for a decade just in case.
How did you get your money back? We bought a 2007 in 2021 and it developed the death rattle last month. Mini said that it's 20,000 miles over the warranty. It's a recall so...how is the mileage a thing? We are paying $1700 for the chain replacement. Now the AC won't work because of a sensor. $250 more...
@@angelaoleary-wyatt512 Since I didn't have all the records, I didn't even submit. The dealership will have the records, if you have service done there, but the car was already gone for 3 years by the time I got the notice. I may not have been a "recall" but a "service bulletin" which means they'll fix it if A.. B.. C.. etc. In a recall, they fix it at their expense because it's usually a safety issue. I think that's why they set the mileage limits. Just went through it again on my 2012 Outback. Only 105,000 miles and I had to put in a new $9000 transmission. They had extended the "warranty" to 100,000 because they had so many failures. I called Subaru's Customer line and they ended up covering $6000 of the cost. Still, I ended up just shy of $4k out of pocket for a car that was relatively low on miles. Basically, if it fails within the parameters set by the bulletin, they will cover it. If not, then you got "one of the good ones" so any failure after that is on you--That's just my understanding of a service bulletin vs a recall. If it was an actual recall, NHTSA or NTSB should have info on it (I forget which agency handles that). Even if you're outside the service window, I'd call MINI and see if they're willing to help out at all. Worth a call.
@@angelaoleary-wyatt512 the Gen 2 2007-2010 were involved with the 30 mil class action lawsuits over the timing chain flaw. Mini agreed to pay for repairs or reimburse those owners with problems. The deal expired in summer of 2016. Any issues after that, you are out of luck. I just got a 2010 with 78k miles on it, bought As Is. The timing chain went after just 800 miles. My parts are ordered and I'm doing this myself this month. Parts and tools were about $600.
Super erklärt.
Do you not need to reset the tensioner with an obd2 computer? I am working on an R56 2007 petrol 88kw cooper and in another video at the end the guy used his device to reset some cam settings in the ecu. Will the car reset itself or does this reset need to be done via the ecu? Thanks.
PS. it seems on the cooper not the cooper s as you have in this video. both cam bolts get 180 degrees. everything else seems to be the same process.
Bravo
I have 2011 clubman 3door turbo 1600 I bought a timing chain kit. The top guard in the head that comes with it rubs agains the top of the chain between the 2 sprockets ex and intake. I put washers under feet of bracket. it clears now.. That says the chain is too thick or guard too low? . next issue is the dip stick is hitting something on the way in about 1/2 way.. Next to the timing chain. ??
Thanks for the video, what was the mileage on this car?
I’m having a issue getting the timing right? Can you explain the correct timing position again for a dummy like me ? You said words up and the flats straight up?
nice job, I hope i never have to do it unless I buy one really cheap that needs it done! LOL
Awesome video!!! Can a rough idle and random misfire across all cylinders be chain related?
Yes because compressions is now off on all cylinders and timing is off
Exelent video I have a question you have any shop in Florida very professional job
Hi does the intake camshaft actuator need timing because there its a point ?
What is the recommended service interval to replace the timing chains in n these cars?
Question is the chain is the same for the none turbo??? Block seem the same since you had remove a lot o this motor
What to do if both marks aren't up and timing is off. How do you adjust the cams?
Really nice video! Good job! What Model of Torque Wrench you use? Thanks
Hi, in this video he was using Snap-On torque wrenches.
How much is that timing chain kit I have the 09 cooper base...non turbo 1.6...whats included ...or should say what not included tks for reply
Hi. I done that to my mini. But the car is not starting. Looks like is no engine pressure. Any suggestion that can help?
Thanks
One of this days, you gonna to disarm the entire car to change one spark plug. Every day new cars are more complicate to working on it
Have you ever had a repeat Timing Chain slip even after installing NEW Mini Cooper S bolts at crank and cams using TTY correct procedures and vacuum pump is new? (Exhaust valve bent of course).
What am I missing?
if it is not in time, how would you reposition the cams?
Can anyone help me with this? Changing my timing chain on 2014 n18. In process of putting it back together. I torqued the crankbolt with the pin in to proper specs. I did this without the cams in. I put the cams in next and put the locking tool on the cams. Going to torque the tensioner and then the cam gears next. Is this an acceptable order or should i have torqued the crankbolt WITH the cams in and locked at the same time? I didnt see a problem with the order i did it in but all the videos show the crank bolt with cams in.
does it matter where the intake cam gear is set at?
The guy who helped me didn't tighten the crank pulley e10 bolts fully. Pulley came loose then bolts sheered off. Now i have to remove the bottom chain sprocket to try to drill them out. I tried welding to them but couldn't get enough heat to the ends of the bolts.
Yeaaaa im going to need someone to do mine
Atleast the parts are affordable Carlos hopefully a shop can give you a decent deal on the labor.
What was the popping sound after turning the crank twice?
Also I am really surprised your're using engine oil to lubricate torque specific bolts , doesn't this actually affect the torque value ?
Legend
@FCP Euro - I'll be looking to do the timing chain on my 2013 Cooper S w/ 75k miles soon. It of course has the N18 engine rather than the N14. I see plenty of guides on replacing the chain on an N14 - this one being the easiest to follow :). How close will this be/easy to follow doing an N18 and where could I expect to find deviations from this guide? TIA
With the N18 being dual Vanos you will see some differences, but that said they share a lot of the similar systems and layout in general.
We made a manual chain tensioner, and vented the crankcase away from the intake charge.
Is this a similar process for the 2011 Cooper S? I believe in 2011 they went to the N18 correct?
nice video. thank you. hey how much does a job like that cost. parts and labor
the parts can be quoted on our site, unfrotunately the labor will depend on what shop you bring it to as they each have an individual labo rate. we'd recommend quoting at service stattions local to you.
I’m missing the point of the L shaped support tool - the engine on a hydraulic jack with a wood block so to move the engine up and down? I get it is attached to the tensioner pulley location but where does the other arm of the L tool get connected?
Sure seems like a lot of people incorrectly install PTFE seals, as demonstrated in this video. They should not be "greased up" and should be installed completely dry, as per car manufacturer and seal manufacturers instructions. Some aftermarket timing belt kits and cam/crank seals even have a note in the box to remind you.
glad you are here, I just done the PTFE/front crank seal dry by other videos and see this one need grease?
No grease
i heared he said 50nm of crank bolt torque. but it was 20nm on the screan.
which is right?
Will this same process work for a 2013 mini Cooper s r56?
What's the little chain behind the main one? Oil pump or something? Mine is super slack. Is that normal?
With a timing chain job, then only real difference between the N18 and n14 is that there are two vanos sprockets for the cams right?
Correct N18 has Vanos Sprockets on both the Exhaust and Intake cams. The process is very similar though.
Would it be easier to pull the engine?
Crank Holder tool: I'm being extra cautious, spent the extra bucks on the crank holder tool Finally arrived and I"m excited to finally do the work...WTF? How is this thing supposed to even go on? If I drop it down from the top like you did, 1: It doesn't line up with the holes, 2: It's not flush, the top of the block sticks out to far, and 3: What is it supposed to catch on? Or are they assuming you are going to hold the end of it? Awesome Video! Gonna keep searching, but I can't find anywhere that clearly shows how that tool is used, seems to obvious....
Got it. Was making to many assumptions and not thinking. removed flywheel and cam locks. Rotated crank so I could get the tool bolted on with handle pointing at about 4 o'clock. breaker bar on crank bolt at about 5 o'clock. Siting in front of car, push tool, pull breaker, loosened right up. Liberal amounts of penetrant several days ago definitely helped. Took a lot less torque to remove than when I first tried a few days ago before I had the tool, and just had the flywheel locked.